W W W. F R E D A FA S H I O N .C O M
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TREND
SPOTTING WANT TO BE FRONT ROW?
See our showdown of A/W09 trends right here...
CA MILLA SKOVGA A RD
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
PREEN
NATHAN JENDEN
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JULIEN MACDONALD
SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
HANNAH MARTIN CHARLES ANASTASE
JULIEN MACDONALD
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
GUNS N CHLOÉ
D ALEX AN
ER MCQ
UEEN
ERDEM
BALENCIAGA
PETER PILOTTO
LANVIN
ROSES
Take me down to paradise city where the girls are pretty in print YET tough in motorcycle jackets, knuckle duster clutches and studded up ankle boots We all know the decade but its not as you know it…sssh don’t say 1980s.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
TWENTY8TWELVE
ERDEM
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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CHLOÉ
BALENCIAGA
STELLA MCCARTNEY
YVES SAINT LAURENT
HERE COMES...
THE BLOUSE
ERDEM BOUDICCA
BOUDICCA CHLOÉ BALENCIAGA
ERDEM
Follow your feminine wiles and get blousy for A/W09.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
FREDA BALENCIAGA
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
POULE
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NATHAN JENDEN
Get your teeth into Houndstooth! A/W09's fabric-du-jour is revving up winter dressing.
CHRISTOPHER KANE 10
STELLA MCCARTNEY
MARC BY MARC JACOBS STELLA MCCARTNEY
PIED A
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
SEE BY CHLOÉ
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
MAXMARA
HALSTON
Fire up your wardrobe in autumn’s head to toe red. Stand out from the crowd in rouge, tomato and flashes of crimson.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
VALENTINO HALSTON
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN VALENTINO
RED HOT
BOTTEGA VENETA
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MIU MIU
FORTE
BOTTEGA VENETA
“Listen very carefully we will say this only once…” be classically feminine in glamorous forties silhouettes and go all out Veronica Lake with flashes of fur.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
LANVIN
LANVIN
40’S
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BRUTON STREET
LEDBURY ROAD
WIMBLEDON
JULIEN MACDONALD
LANVIN
PETER PILOTTO
Swing to the season’s mood and work twisted and draped silhouettes into your A/W09 wardrobe now!
LANVIN
DOLCE AND GABBANA
SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
PREEN
SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
LET’S TWIST AGAIN
SHOULDERS
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SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
ERDEM
JULIEN MACDONALD
BACK!
Curved and sensual, sharp or tilting! We say build your silhouette around fashion’s new architecture.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Velvet gets some va-va-voom this A/W09. Fall in love again with its generous swathes and luxurious shine.
BOTTEGA VENETA
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
BRIAN ATWOOD
VELVET UNDER GROUND
RUPERT SANDERSON
CHRISTOPHER KANE WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM
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MATTHEW WILLIAMSON YVES SAINT LAURENT
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
BRIDGET COSGRAVE MATCHES FASHION DIRECTOR
HALSTON
“...a new shape, my word for it is the ca-poncho – an innovative mix between a cape and a poncho!”
DIANE VON FURSTENBURG
THE NEW CA-PONCHO!
RISING T-HIGH
CHLOÉ
CHLOÉ
MIU MIU
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Boots HIT record highs and graze those thighs! WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM
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L AIDBACK Come play dress up with us in our hottest hits of the season.
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Previous page: For him, shirt, jeans and jersey by John Varvatos, shoes by Dolce and Gabbana. For her, clothes by Helmut Lang, boots by Azzedine Alaia. This page: Coat by Burberry Prorsum, waistcoat by Marchand Drapier, jeans by Nudie, shirt by Burberry Prorsum. Opposite: For him, hat by Alexander McQueen, coat by Aquascutum. For her, trench by 3.1 Phillip Lim, dress by Nathan Jenden.
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This page: Leather jacket by Halston, vest by American Vintage, pants by Helmut Lang, necklace by Hannah Martin. Opposite: Clockwise from top left: Suit by Aquascutum, shirt by Marchand Drapier, shoes by Dolce and Gabbana. Cardigan and vest by Sykes, jeans by PRPS, necklace by Hannah Martin. Jacket with removable gilet by Elizabeth and James, sweater by Bella Freud, jeans by C.R.A.F.T. Sweater by Marc Jacobs, shirt by Maison Martin Margiela, jeans by John Varvatos, boots by Dolce and Gabbana.
This page: Gilet by Haute Hippie, jeans by C.R.A.F.T. bracelet by Hannah Martin. Opposite: Hat and cardigan by Dolce and Gabbana, coat and shirt by Burberry Prorsum, jeans by Commonwealth Utilities.
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This page: All-in-one by Halston, sandals by Azzedine Alaia, jewellery by Hannah Martin. Opposite: Jacket and cardigan by Commonwealth Utilities, shirt and trousers by Burberry Prorsum.
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“Make like the Paris girls and kick-back this Chloé cocktail dress with a rock'n'roll Sophia jacket, accented with a punky studded clutch by Miu Miu.”
“A very luxurious take on the streetlook, these Stella tracksuit bottoms are a great way to keep the biker look sporty while at the same time maintaining incredible elegance.” 30
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“Work the 1980s favouritestonewashed Made in Heaven's road trek jean with a classic Sykes biker. An indispensable basic thanks to its sharp shoulders and immaculate cut.”
LEATHER REBEL
“Mix your pretty with punk. Contrast Balenciaga's classic cream blouse with Preen's ever so edgy motorcross leggings for a new take on sexy.”
Take cue from Jo Sykes, Freda’s ALL NEW designer and don biker girl chic. Leather leggings and biker jackets are fast becoming wardrobe staples. Jo shows us how to work the look for A/W09.
“Stella's longer length sharp tuxedo paired with DVF's leather leggings makes the tux look fun, inject just the right amount of flirty femininity with David Wyatt's bow shoes”
“Mix up the super-luxe volume of Balenciaga's big-bird jacket with Sykes sleek and sophisticated skinnies.”
ACCESSORIZE
ALL HOURS
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Put some joie-de-vivre into your winter wardrobe with our favourite accessories.
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TOP TO BOTTOM 1. Kara Ross Ring 2. Christian Louboutin shoe 3. MechantĂŠ shoe 4. Diane Von Furstenberg bag 5. Alexander McQueen clutch 6. Balenciaga bracelet 7. Zagliani bag 8. Christian Louboutin clutch
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CHAIN GANG
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6. TOP TO BOTTOM 1. Stella McCartney bag 2. Zagliani bag 3. Chloé bag 4. Chloé bag 5. Lanvin bag 6. Yves Saint Laurent bag
Linked, laced and be-ribboned what ever way they come chains are the handles to sport this season.
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SUCH A STUD
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Explore your inner anarchist and add tough-luxe to dressing this season in studs and rivets.
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TOP TO BOTTOM 1. Preen bag 2. Hannah Martin ring 3. Preen bag 4. Yves Saint Laurent bag 5. Christian Louboutin pump 6. Alaia boot 7. Balenciaga bag 8. Maloles 9. Yves Saint Laurent bag
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SUEDE WITH ME
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Saddle up for A/W09 in our most sumptuous suede accessories.
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TOP TO BOTTOM 1. Celine bag 2. Christian Louboutin shoe 3. Méchante boot 4. Balenciaga bag 5. Christian Louboutin boot 6. Rupert Sanderson shoe 7. Yves Saint Laurent bag 8. Chloé shoe 9. Balenciaga boot 10. Brian Atwood boot
SHOW ME YOUR WARDROBE
Catherine and Rob, our Matches Private Shopping duo jet around the world styling the bold and the beautiful and sorting every fashion fix and all wardrobe dilemmas.
Jewels from Hannah Martin, skull clutch by Alexander McQueen, dress by Sophia Kokosalaki.
Coat by Missoni, cashmere by Madeleine Thompson, flats by Tila March.
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Jacket and tee by Helmut Lang, bag by Balenciaga, boots by Isabel Marant.
Coat by Alaia, bag by Bottega Veneta, shoes by Yves Saint Laurent.
Dress by Lanvin, bag by Balenciaga, shoes by Christian Louboutin.
Catherine West - catherine.west@matchesfashion.com Rob Gates - rob.gates@matchesfashion.com
BEHIND THE
STUDIO DOOR We get inside the minds and behind the studios of London's hottest fashion designers.
BOUDICCA I popped into BOUDICCA’s avant-garde studio space on Hackney’s Vyner Street and found a whole new world. Zoe & Brian what are your inspirations? Truly this is a list that is infinite. When you exist to create, you look carefully at all things; even when you wish you could close your eyes for a few minutes and rest. Who is the Boudicca woman? Anyone who is interested in the value of an idea. Why Hackney? There is a sense of development still occurring and with that openness, comes intersections and collisions, sparks of friction that inevitably allow for difference. 5 Things you/people didn’t know about Vyner Street? 1. The road is still cobbled at its beginning and so it holds the tales of the past as you enter. 2. A silent, naked, woman lives in the glass box towards the end of the street. 3. The garden grows so slowly. 4. A few empty spaces are still for SALE and with a wish that the right people inhabit them! 5. It snows in April.
ERDEM
ERDEM IN HIS STUDIO
Erdem shows me his STUDIO deep in the heart of East London. It’s no surprise that his work space is a treasure trove of the prettiest ERDEM things you could imagine. Erdem, tell us about your inspirations? It all starts with my mood-books. I collect lots of different images from photographers, gallery postcards, magazine tears. At the moment I love the photographer Michel Chelbin and always love the work of masters like Goya and Velásquez and icons like Edith Sitwell and Truman Capote. That's an eclectic mix, what happens next? The next step is lots and lots of sketching and designing prints, everything happens at the same time, there's a synchronicity.
Who is the Erdem girl? I don't have a muse per se, the S/S09 girl was very pastel, very 1970s midsummer nights dream, it was very soft and feminine. For A/W09 it's as if she has left the country behind and gone to the city. I love the idea that she is back in the city, a princess taking the 149 bus home in double duchess satin. I always have the same woman in mind. It's the girl I draw in my illustrations! Where is the Erdem girl going to next? Ah! now that would be telling, all will be revealed for S/S10 at LFW. What's your favourite dress for A/W09? The blue and red dress with strong shoulders, I think it really epitomized the coquettishness of the collection. 5 Things you didn't know about Erdem! 1. He is a Scorpio. 2. Oh la la is the name of French folk band that played at his A/W09 show. 3. He loves YSL, circa 1970. 4. He has a twin sister called Sara. 5. Guilty pleasure, he collects vintage “Princess Di” tins.
 
HANNAHMARTIN Hannah Martin showed us her studio down a cobbled street, just off the Clerkenwell Road. Filled with assorted taxidermy, ravens painted with golden nails, apothecary bottles and a GLORIOUSLY golden palm tree on her terrace. We chatted amongst the birds, mortar and pestles and soldering irons… The mood of A/W09? The Vincent A/W09 collection really began with the Russian film “Eastern Promises”, directed by Tarkovsky. I love that truly Russian feel of decadence mixed with a dark sinister edge. About the jewels? They are jewels for men that girls will most definitely want to steal… What's next? My current muse is The Count of St. Germain (Google him) the man who knows everything and never dies… 5 Things you didn’t know about Hannah? 1. She has a thing about taxidermy (A raven and pigeon perch in her studio). 2. She used to work for Cartier. 3. Her secret crushes are Nick Cave and Vincent Gallo. 4. She has a penchant for gentlemen’s lighters and watches. 5. Her favourite film is 'Performance' starring Mick Jagger and James Fox.
SOPHIAKOKOSALAKI I popped in for a cup of tea with Sophia Kokosalaki in her studio down in hip Hackney, which is a hot-spot for aspiring young artists, musicians and designers. Sophia says “It really is inspiring and fun to see so many strange creatures on their way to work every morning in extraordinary outfits and getting ready to go out in the late afternoon. It keeps you in the loop with what’s going on and feels like being right at the heart of ‘real’ London.” What's your favourite dress in your birthday collection? The black tulle, dress it’s very festive, but also graceful. What are your inspirations? Arts and crafts, my greek heritage and living in london. Who is the Sophia girl? Someone who is cool, confident, sexy and different! Why London, why Hackney? It’s the centre of anything that has to do with contemporary culture. 5 Things you didn’t know about Sophia! 1. She has a younger brother and sister. 2. She is a very enthusiastic cook. 3. She likes to collect pillars, any size, and any period. 4. She has 4 olive trees in her garden in Islington. 5. She plays basketball quite well and the piano not so well.
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TALK SHOP
THE GUYS
We went down to say hello to our top menswear managers in Ledbury, Marylebone and Wimbledon to get the best sartorial advice in town. Meet Andy, Charles and Michael.
“The Wimbledon store is the true ORIGINAL Matches. A haven for men’s must-have classics with a few surprises to experiment with...” MICHAEL, MENSWEAR MANAGER MATCHES WIMBLEDON
MR.WIMBLEDON MICHAEL'S TOP 5 FOR A/W09
1. “Burberry Prorsum's classic, beautifully cut military coat is a wardrobe winner.” 2. Nobody does it better! I love Zegna’s sophisticated tailoring; it’s clean, classic and cool.” 3. “Once you wear a Zegna knit there is no going back, I’d team this with a grey suit or PRPS jeans.” 4. “Yes, another Lanvin hit- need I say more…” 5. “Anything YSL is always right up there, especially this simple yet slick loafer.”
BURBERRY PRORSUM
GUY DILEMMA'S ZEGNA
"Blokes sometimes get very brand focused, our wide range encourages them to broaden their horizons and dress the classics with edge."
MICHAEL'S SARTORIAL ADVICE ZEGNA
"Don't be afraid to experiment."
YVES SAINT LAURENT
LANVIN WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM
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“Ledbury Rd. has a real neighbourhood vibe, we literally ARE the boy’s next store, it’s like the local wardrobe.” ANDY, MENSWEAR MANAGER MATCHES LEDBURY
MR.LEDBURY
COMMONWEALTH UTILITIES
ANDY'S TOP 5 FOR A/W09
1. “You can really see the intrinsic value in Bottega Veneta, I love their black trainer it’s multi-versatile.” 2. “This McQueen trouser is cool because it is such a classic, yet so slim, it has an amazing silhouette. I’d wear with a Grenson brogue.” 3. “Love Lanvin, it’s very directional and this double breasted cardigan can be worn in so many different ways.” 4. “I’d look forward to the weekend, every weekend if I had this iconic varsity jacket from Balenciaga!” 5. “A coat from Commonwealth Utilities is a gift you need to give yourself this season!”
BALENCIAGA
GUY DILEMMA'S
"Dressing dilemmas for guys tend to be getting smart directional pieces right. Our boys know their work-wear inside-out, but when it comes to dressing for an event where they need to look smart yet have personality, clients can get a bit flummoxed, that's where we step in..."
ANDY'S SARTORIAL ADVICE
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
LANVIN
"Develop your sense of personal style and make it your own, individuality is priceless!"
BOTTEGA VENETA
“Marylebone is our newest store and has a vibrant mix of young and old, its calm, laid-back atmosphere is the perfect place to pick up some casual cool.” CHARLES, MENSWEAR MANAGER MATCHES MARYLEBONE
MR.MARYLEBONE CHARLES' TOP 5 FOR A/W09
1. “The fit of this Lot 78 double breasted jacket is amazing, it’s quite rock-starry, so beautifully fitted and smart.” 2. “There are a lot of shawl collars around this season and I like the way it sits on the body, pop on this Rag and Bone knit and bring it down with a chino and you're good to go.” 3. “Form’s twill trouser has a super shape; very flattering cut which is looser at the top and more fitted on the leg.” 4. “Acne what can I say, totally cool, this shirt is a long length so has to be worn open, a great casual look.” 5. “A fun boating boot by John Varvatos, this is a Marylebone favourite, quite casual with a hint of cool.”
FORM
LOT 78
GUY DILEMMA'S
"Guys don't want to look like they are in fancy dress; they want to wear Balenciaga not have Balenciaga wear them. They also want to know what piece from Burberry is appropriate for what occasion. Very often our clients have our mobile numbers on speed dial and phone and text us with their wardrobe dilemmas."
CHARLES' SARTORIAL ADVICE "The rules are- there are no rules" RAG & BONE
ACNE
JOHN VARVATOS
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FINE & DANDY Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons, Savile Row has revived the old sporting and military tailor E-TAUZ that dressed the likes of the Duke of Windsor, Churchill and America’s pre-war elite with a new line of highly traditional, high-quality, ready-to-wear menswear. All sourced from tiny traditional artisans around the U.K. Knitwear from Shetland and Southern Wales, even hand-made bow-ties as far a field as Stoke Newington! The collection isn’t too tweedy, more a hybrid of the kind of clothes men like Churchill would wear with a fun contemporary twist.
JOIN THE
COMMON
WEALTH
You'll be entertained with our ALL NEW menswear brand Commonwealth Utilities. The creative team is Anthony Keegan, a Canadian and Richard Christiansen an Australian who 'both hail from the commonwealth’ hence the name! Anthony is ex-Armani, Donna Karan and previously creative director of Kenneth Cole. Richard is the founder of creative design agency Chandelier Creative. These guys know what the modern man wants with their contemporary tailoring and brand of masculinity. It’s our first season with the boys and we are delighted to have them all to ourselves in the UK. That’s right gentlemen you can get all dressed up in this garb – ONLY AT MATCHES. 48
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CUFF
THE
OFF
You can’t argue with a French man who hails from a family of drapers that goes back for five generations! We give you – Marchand Drapier. A second season en famille our menswear buyer Stacey Smith loves creative director Bendoit Carpentier’s mix of old style tailoring combined with contemporary styling, especially their traditional shirts in beautiful fabrics with unexpectedly decorative detailing. La vie est belle. Your favourite designers? Yves Saint Laurent for perfect cuts and precision. Martin Margiela for good basics. Paul Smith for fun and happiness. What are your rules when designing? To be refined but very masculine. To be elegant but not boring. What key details are Marchand Drapier signatures? The red embroidery logo on shirts and the measurement tape on flies. Which English gent would you love to dress top to toe? Robbie Williams. What’s next for Marchand Drapier? To be number one in England!
RAG & BONE
So ROCK AND ROLL the Rag & Bone pair Marcus Wainwright and David Neville even had Radiohead’s front man curating their soundtrack for their A/W 09 fashion show. We’re riding R&B’s unstoppable wave and have nabbed their pick of the crop, with their COOLEST blazers embellished with real military buttons and English meets American tailoring. RAG & BONE Q&A Marcus Wainwright Two London guys, why the New York move? The weather and a girl! It’s the most inspiring city I've ever been to. A/W09 inspiration? Fall was largely inspired by a trip to Japan and a visit to the Metropolitan Museum's Samurai armour collection in NYC. What’s been Rag & Bone’s finest hour to date?
Winning a CFDA Award and opening our first store last year. We are very lucky and we love what we do, it’s a lot of fun.
NATURAL
SELECTION It's the survival of the fittest. That’s right only the strongest will win! Take an evolutionary step into A/W09 boys and choose Natural Selection. This ONLY AT MATCHES denim line offers a whole NEW take on the humble jean. Fine fabrics, heritage detailing and washes coupled with innovative styling. Yep, fellas this is the blue stuff to love this season.
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CRUIZE
THRU
And what’s next? Cruise collections are a welcome shot of colour come winter. S/S10 is bright, bright; bright. All will be revealed in our next issue. Ya’ll come back now!
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ONTREND
ONLINE WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM