ars sutoria
SCHOOL
FOOTWEAR TRAINING 2015
ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL BOOST YOUR CAREER IN THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY Ars Sutoria School is the “University of Footwear”. No doubt Ars Sutoria is the more known international school for those who want to learn shoe design and engineering. The leading international footwear brands recruit designers and technicians among our alumni The school has been organising courses in the field of footwear pattern making since 1947. Initially all our courses were targeted to the technicians working in the Italian footwear factories. Today the majority of our students are international. Language spoken is English and we welcome this amazing experiences of having so many different cultures in our classes. Courses span from introduction to manufacturing, advanced engineering of shoes, design and merchandising. We are strongly committed to keep a focus on the good practices to manufacture shoes. ARS-Lab is the name of our sample room, a unique facility equipped with all the machineries commonly used in factories to make shoes. The school is located near the center town of Milan. In the early ‘60s a 7.000 sqm building was built in via Nievo 33 where Ars Sutoria still today has its offices, classrooms and where apartments were created for the students.
OUR VALUES FOCUS We believe it is important to keep our courses focused on products. Along the years our core courses have always been the technical classes. Today we organize design and marketing classes too but we strongly believe that everything starts from a deep knowledge of materials and components, of technical constructions, manufacturing and engineering techniques. “Shoes are not bags” is another fundamental value in our training offer. Here at Ars Sutoria School courses in the field of shoes and bags are separate curriculums, as they should be. DURATION Our target students cannot spend years at school. Most of our students have already a working experience or they have graduated in other schools. Mainly they come from fashion design, industrial design and business administration. We offer courses with a maximum duration of three months. All our courses are full time intensive: class hours are 9 am to 5 pm. One or two teachers are full time dedicated to the class every day interacting with our students. INTERNATIONAL Most of our teachers come from Italy but not only. We welcome professionals from all over the world and the same for students. We have decided to run the courses in English because nowadays the footwear industry is fully globalized. In the same class you will find students from Italy, Europe, North and Latin America, Middle East and Asia.
WORLDWIDE REACH COURSES IN ITALY The organisation of the footwear training courses in Italy is still our major focus. We have been running courses for shoe designers and technicians in Milan for more than 70 years COURSES IN THE UNITED STATES In the past few year we have been organising short courses to teach the fundamentals of shoemaking in the US. Since 2009 with the support of Two Ten Foundation in Waltham – Boston (MA) and since 2011 with the support of FFaNY in New York City We have trained more than 300 professionals from US leading footwear companies such as BBC International, Brown Shoe Company, Camuto, Clarks NA, Converse, Dansko, Deckers, Genesco, HH Brown, Jimlar, New Balance, Nine West, Puma, Rockport, Sketchers, Timberland, The North Face, Topline, Vans, Vibram, White Mountain, Wolverine IN-HOUSE COURSES Starting from 2006 we have been organising in-house training classes for renowned companies such as Aldo, Bata, Brown Shoe Company, Deckers, Nine West, Nike, New Balance, Rossimoda and Berluti (LVMH group), Timberland and Wolverine INTERNATIONAL COURSES IN PARTNERSHIP WITH ASSOCIATIONS For more than 10 years we have been organising footwear classes in different countries in collaboration with local associations and training centers. The most important collaborations in these past years have been with in Colombia with ACICAM, India with CLE, Mexico with ANPIC, Thailand and Vietnam with the local association of the footwear manufacturers COOPERATIONS WITH OTHER SCHOOLS We also welcome collaborations with Italian and international training institutes that we support with our knowledge in the field of shoe design and engineering. In these past years we have been teaching classes in Italy at Domus Academy, in India at FDDI, in Singapore at TafTC, in Spain at Inescop and Coco School. In 2014 we have started a collaboration with the University of Oregon in Portland to run workshops targeted to professionals of the sport footwear industry and to teach classes during their sport management program
BOSTON
PORTLAND NEW YORK
ALICANTE
TOKYO KOLKATA HUADU
LEON BOGOTA
SINGAPORE
PROFILE OF OUR STUDENTS COUNTRY OF ORIGIN We do not require any pre-requisite to attend our courses. Middleworking East Students with experience are together with graduates from fashion design or MBA Australia Africa in business administration. We consider our courses “masters” because they are advanced in Europe 6% North Americathey supply but at the same time very hands-on the skills 18%
AGE OF ARS SUTORIA STUDENTS >40 36-40
8%
17-20 6%
7% 31-35
16%
12% 39%
21-25
Profile and background of the students have changed along these years: we keep on training pattern and technical developers. Even though now the larger part of our students Latin makers 10% America 20% or a product management role in a footwear company. are looking for a design job
28%
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
AGE OF ARS SUTORIA STUDENTS Far East
Still part of our 28%students are entrepreneurs, usually the 17-20 >40 26-30 second or the third generation of owners of footwear Italy 36-40 8% 6% brands and factories. Just to name a few: Rossetti, Ballin 7% and Pizzuti in Italy, data Pura and Ursula Mascarò in Spain, Adarsh Gupta, Raman and Vivek from aLopez sample of 1000 students from years 2003-2014 Bansal in India, Celine Oaknine in the US. 31-35 12% 39%
21-25
There is also an increasing number of students that are willing to start a shoe brand. Students that recently started their own venture are Cristina Palomo of Freda Salvador, Heather Williams, Martha Davis, Nicole Brundage, Sarah Flint among the others28% 26-30
ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l. - Via Nievo 33, Milan (IT)
www.arssutoria.com
Middle East Africa
Europe 18%
16%
Latin America
Australia
6%
North America
10%
20% Far East 28% Italy
school@arssutoria.com
data from a sample of 1000 students from years 2003-2014
+39 0231912.327
FOOTWEAR
PATTERN MAKING AND PROTOTYPING DURATION
PRICE
SESSION I
SESSION II
13 WEEKS
€ 9250
Jan 7 , 2015 TO Apr 3rd, 2015
Apr 8 , 2015 Jul 3rd, 2015
+ ITALIAN VAT
th
SESSION III
th
TO
Aug 26th, 2015 Nov 20th, 2015
TO
WEEK 1 - INTRODUCTION TO SHOEMAKING During the first week we dedicate three days to a preliminary explanation of the footwear manufacturing process. We believe it is fundamental that every student has a deep knowledge on how shoe are made and of all the materials and components used for the different shoe constructions
WEEK 2 to 9 - PATTERN MAKING Most of the class time is dedicated to footwear pattern making, a topic which we believe is indispensable for both designers and technicians Students get to learn first how to design and develop patterns with classic proportion such as basic pump (ballerina), derby, oxford, loafer at a beginner level and then once skills are achieved to move to styles with an higher level of difficulties such has high fashion pumps, sandals, oxford and derby, ankle boot, boot, asymetrical styles and training shoes (cemented construction) The Ars Sutoria working method has been an effort that we have made during the years to set precise rules on how the patterns of the different shoe styles have to be made. Together with these rules we encourage students to understand the “reasons why” of the choices they will make in the future design-wise or manufacturing-wise Trials are firstly made in paper and cardboard then cut in leather and other materials. A professional stitcher is available every week to prepare sample uppers and linings. The interaction with the stitching department is fundamental to better understand how to fine tune the pattern making process. Details are the focus of this course: fitting, edge finishing, reinforcing, etc... At the beginning students use training lasts and along the course they get to use more fashion and complicated structures The industrial shoe making process is the focus of our course. Bespoke shoes are not part of the training, Our students design, engineer and make shoes that are manufactured in factories, might be luxury or mass market manufacturing We also organise hand lasting sessions on a few selected styles to expose participants to the toe, back and side lasting operation as one of the most delicate step of the board lasted construction. Nowadays factories are equipped with highly automated machines that help increase productivity. Nevertheless learning how to hand-last a shoe gives both designers and technicians a better understanding of what happens in the factory and it gives them strong fundamentals to better manage their designs and/or engineering During the course we always organise visits to factories: footwear manufacturing plants, leather tannery, last making facility, heel-maker and sole manufacturers Nowadays 2D CAD systems are commonly used in most of the Italian footwear factories. Ars Sutoria School students that are looking for a job as pattern maker or technical developer are encouraged to take the CAD seminar during the 13 weeks pattern making course. The CAD seminar is organized after class hours and it is focused on how to apply the manual working techniques to the CAD software. At the end of 2014 we have set up a new CAD room with state of the art workstations and industry software. 2D pattern making, material consumption calculation and spec sheet preparation is the core of our training.
WEEK 10 to 12 - PROTOTYPING Starting from week 10 students are challenged to develop their own prototypes They start from an original design, they choose materials and components from those available at the school, they develop the technical project of the patterns for upper and lining and they support the sample making activities Our instructors have created different styles of lasts together with coordinated soles and heels. A choice of leathers, fabrics and synthetic materials are available at the school. Students do not need to buy any material, everything is supplied
We strongly believe that a shoe design or a shoe engineering course must include a number of hours dedicated to making shoes in a shoe factory or in a sample room. Hand-made/bespoke shoes are fascinating but they are a completely different world. We train professionals that work in close contact with factories (both luxury and mass market) and they need to know how shoes and components are industrialized That is the reason why we have decided to set up a complete sample making facility at Ars Sutoria School. For years we have worked in partnership with an external laboratory equipped with machines for shoe making. In 2015 we have decided to launch the ARS-LAB inside the school and we have invested into a complete set of machines. Now at Ars Sutoria School it is possible to make woman, man and children shoes. Flat and heeled shoes. Board lasted, mocassins and strobel upper constructions. Cemented construction only for the bottom (not stitched or injected soles) and nailed heels. A professional stitcher and shoe technicians support our teachers and students in the sample making process. Every student work on his/her shoe sample but they also learn from looking at all the projects of the other students. We also spend a day at a shoe finishing laboratory where students can apply different finishing to their prototypes with the help of specialists from a leading italian company.
WEEK 13 - FINAL ASSESSMENT The final exam is a good opportunity to recap all the subjects covered during the course and to assess the progress in skills and knowledge It takes the entire week and it includes a fit testing session on students prototypes, a written test, a practical exercise and an interview Ars Sutoria diploma is issued at the end of the course
ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l. - Via Nievo 33, Milan (IT)
www.arssutoria.com
school@arssutoria.com
+39 0231912.327
FOOTWEAR
DESIGN
COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT DURATION
4 WEEKS
PRICE
€ 3500 + ITALIAN VAT
SESSION I
SESSION II
Apr 8th, 2015 TO May 6th, 2015
Jul 6th, 2015 Jul 31st, 2015
SESSION III TO
Nov 23rd, 2015 Dec 22nd, 2015
TO
In a highly competitive environment such as today’s, it is more important than ever to develop collections that are both commercially viable and efficient in terms of production. A new collection will have success if the new fashion trends are adapted to the customers and harmonized with the brand values. Keeping an eye on the return on investment. For both a young designer who decides to launch a new brand and a company with tradition and structure, the process of developing a collection requires identification of a precise target audience, consistency between the product and the distribution channel, the correct price positioning and an appropriate choice of global sourcing and supply of materials. This four week course focuses on explaining the needs of the different operators, often in conflict with each other, in order to better interact with the different professionals, both inside and outside the company, who are involved in the manufacturing and marketing of the product. STUDENTS ARE REQUIRED TO BRING A LAPTOP WITH A PRESENTATION SOFTWARE AND A DIGITAL CAMERA THE COURSE FEE INCLUDES A THREE MONTH SUBSCRIPTION TO WWW.ARSTRENDS.COM
WEEK 1 to 2 - FOOTWEAR SKETCHING DRAWING OF THE LAST AND BOTTOM COMPONENTS In both shoe design and shoe making the last is the starting point of every activity both from a technical and from a stylistic point of view. Being able to sketch the volumes of the last gives the students a different perspective of the 3-dimensionality of the shoes and it gives also the basics for the sketching of the bottom of the shoe (outsoles and heels)
DRAWING OF THE SHOE This first activity is perfomed making a copy of the most common shoe styles (both man and woman) and it gives the students the correct initial proportions to design a shoe. Proportions and measures are indeed really important. The first stylistic draft has to be translated into a precise project of a shoe with the different views of the 3D object
PREPARATION OF THE SPEC SHEET It is fundamental in shoe design not only to reproduce the shoe in a 3D view but also to specify in details all the materials and components of the shoe so that the next technical development activity can be more accurate and fast
DIGITAL DRAWING In this week we will focus on the fundamentals of drawing on a digital canvas. We’ll begin by learning about some of the basic types of line and the tools used to create these lines. We will walk you through the building blocks of digital drawing, splicing a shoe in shapes for an easier drawing, apply correct shading techniques to your drawings, composition and perspective for your moodboards and sketches and much more.
WEEK 3 to 4 - COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT MARKETING AND TREND ANALYSIS Introduction to the process of developing a collection within a brand: - consumer profile and market positioning of the brand - competitor analysis: which brands competitors/comparable in the chosen market segment - trend analysis: in cooperation with trend research team of Ars Sutoria magazine
MERCHANDISING PLAN Introduction to merchandising planning: - definitions and why is so important to realize a balanced collection appealing to your target - a concrete example of a merchandising plan - detailed explanation of all the information that are part of a well structured plan - the role of the quantitative analysis - criteria to decide the right dimension of the collection
FROM MERCHANDISING PLAN TO PRODUCT DESIGN Hands on: - product sketching, starting from the moodboards and from the merchandising plan and focusing the products to be designed and developed - design of the last (focus the shapes) - heels and outsoles (design and materials/constructions) - shoe styles, color combinations and materials choice
Mandatory pre-course For those students that have not attended the 13 week course before this 4 week collection design class, we require the successful completion of three e-learning courses. These three online courses will provide a basics technical knowldge that we believe it is needed to attend this design class For more information on our e-Learning program, please refer to the dedicated page on this brochure or visit elearning.arssutoria.com
ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l. - Via Nievo 33, Milan (IT)
www.arssutoria.com
school@arssutoria.com
+39 0231912.327
GENERAL INFORMATION EMAIL
PHONE
CONTACT
school@arssutoria.com
+39 0231912 327
Mrs. Rossella Cucco Admission Manager
APPLICATION AND ENROLLMENT Applications have to be submitted online at arssutoria.com/application-shoes Filling this form does not mean you give any confirmation to the payment of tuition and/or accomodation fees. This form is intended to gather all the information that we need to issue a quotation that we will send to in a short time Upon receiving the application the school issues a proposal with adjusted tuition and accomodation fees.
ITALIAN VAT ON TUITION All tuition fees in this brochure are intended without VAT applied. VAT is not added to tuition fees only if the invoice is issued to an European company with a VAT registration number, or to a non-European company
PAYMENT AND REFUND POLICY Payment of tuition fees has to be settled before the beginning of the course. Once the school receives the entire payment, enrollment letter and all documents needed to require a study visa will be prepared. In case the student is not in the condition to attend the course, the school allows to postpone the participation to a future session. Alternatively 70% of the entire tuition fee can be reimbursed
VISA Depending on your citizenship, the duration and reasons for your stay you may need to obtain a visa before coming to Italy. You can check online if you need a visa at this address: http://www.esteri.it/visti/home_eng.asp If you attend a course for more than 90 days, you need to ask for a STUDY visa at your local Italian consulate. The process for the study visa can take up to 2 months to be completed. We suggest to start the process quite in advance. There’s a list of documents needed to apply for a study visa including the receipt of payment of the tuition fees and the enrollement letter issued by the school.
ACCOMMODATION
ARS SUTORIA RESIDENCE EMAIL
school@arssutoria.com PHONE
+39 0231912 327
ADDRESS
CONTACT
Via Ippolito Nievo 33, 20145 Milan (MI) Italy
Admission Manager
Mrs. Rossella Cucco
A UNIQUE LEARNING EXPERIENCE To enhance learning experience outside the classroom, we reccomend accomodation in the Ars Sutoria Residence, located in the same building of our school, 15 minutes from the fashion center of Milan. Being part of an international network of footwear professionals contributes to giving each student a continously rich and incomparable experience in our school.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Single room w/kitchen single bed
€ 375/week
All apartments are equipped with WiFi internet access, heating and A/C. The prices include: one weekly room cleaning, one weekly bedsheets replacement, two weekly towels replacement 15% discount is granted for reservations with advanced payments for periods that exceed 4 weeks. The residence is called “Sette Cupole”, and it’s located in Via Ippolito Nievo 33
ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l. - Via Nievo 33, Milan (IT)
www.arssutoria.com
school@arssutoria.com
+39 0231912.327
FOOTWEAR
E-LEARNING COURSES CONTACT
WEBSITE
support@arssutoria.com
http://elearning.arssutoria.com
Watch online lectures with senior technicians Test your progress at the end of each lesson Complete a course and get an Ars Sutoria diploma
ONLINE COURSE OFFERING Footwear silhouettes
general subdivisions, families and glossary In each industry many specific terms are used. That’s what happens in field of footwear without exception. There are names of components used in the manufacturing process and names of different shoe silhouettes. Silhouettes is what this course is about LECTURES: 8
DURATION: 4hrs
PRICE: 200€ for 3 months access
Life of a shoe
fundamentals of shoemaking The “shoe” is greater than the sum of its parts. What brings a shoe to life and the role and function of each part is covered in detail. This online course is comprised of 7 lessons each of which focuses on the shoe’s life cycle LECTURES: 7
DURATION: 5hrs
PRICE: 300€ for 3 months access
Material introduction
Overview of footwear materials and components Footwear is comprised up of many different materials. The choices that are made in materials impact cost, quality and comfort. We may think mostly of the upper material because that is what is most visible but we have invisible materials as well. The last and soles are also critical materials to footwear. LECTURES: 5
DURATION: 2hrs30min
iPAD APP Download the “Ars e-Learning” iPad app from the App Store to watch our lectures on the go and download videos to access them even with a weak or no internet connection at all
PRICE: 200€ for 3 months access
WEB APP
ARSTRENDS WEBSITE CONTACT
WEBSITE
arstrends@arsarpel.com
http://www.arstrends.com
A huge database of photos and sketches hundreds of new images added every week
Request your free trial on ARS SUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l. - Via Nievo 33, Milan (IT)
www.arssutoria.com
school@arssutoria.com
+39 0231912.327