Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine November-December 2022 Preview

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Reason No. 9 to love Maui: Hosmer’s Grove Loop Trail. For the rest of our Shaka List picks, go to page 36.

Features 28

ISLAND HISTORY

CAMP MAUI

Our island is known for rainbows, beaches, and much aloha, but during World War II, Maui had a very different vibe.

By Lara McGlashan 36

MAUI STYLE THE SHAKA LIST

Here are just 20 of the millions of reasons we love Maui.

By Lara McGlashan 46

HAWAIIAN SOUL

THE WINDS OF TIME

Hale Hō‘ike‘ike honors those who came before — and those who are yet to come.

By Judy Edwards

54 AT HOME

MIDCENTURY MODERN MARVEL

An oceanfront home in Kahana gets an authentic renovation.

By Heidi Pool

This stop-in-your-tracks image of a south Maui sunset was captured by photographer Andrew Shoemaker.

Departments

CONTRIBUTORS

Here are some of the talented folks who make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

By Diane Haynes Woodburn

TALK STORY

Tales of Hawai‘i fresh off the coconut wireless. By Lara McGlashan & Ashley Probst

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Looking for something to do? Here’s what’s happening.

WHO’S WHO

These local folks are making the Maui scene.

PAU HANA SORRY ’BOUT DA HUMBUG

By Lara McGlashan

Dining

Stories by Becky Speere

FEATURE HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN

Chef Taylor Ponte shows the MNKO staff how to prepare a holiday meal, Maui style.

MIXOLOGY

TKO PUNCH!

Try this rum cocktail from the mixologists at Pacific’o by the Beach.

DINING GUIDE

Hungry? Check out this short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island.

Publisher Diane Woodburn presents at the ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards, hosted by Old Lāhainā Lū‘au. Who’s Who, p.86

There’s a saying known in the Islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.

Publisher Diane Haynes Woodburn

Group Publisher Michael Haynes

Creative Director John Giordani

Editor-in-Chief Lara McGlashan

EDITORIAL

Consulting Editor Rita Goldman

Dining Editor Becky Speere

Website Manager Adelle Lennox

Digital Media Contributor Tori Speere

MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sales Manager Brooke Tadena Sales Associate Benjamin Barreras Advertising Sales (808) 242-8331

ADMINISTRATION

Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske

NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Inquiries

Toll-Free: (844) 808-MAUI (6284) MauiMagazine.net/Subscribe National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services Hawai‘i MagNet In-Room Maui Circulation

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Judy Edwards, Lara McGlashan, Heidi Pool, Ashley Probst, Becky Speere

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Julianna Bennett, Cesere Brothers, John Giordani, Ashley Goodwin, Mieko Horikoshi, Marjie Kaho‘okele-Pe‘a, Jason Moore, Mickey Pauole, Travis Rowan, Ryan Siphers, Forrest & Kim Starr, Darrell Wong

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Matt Foster

Here are some of the folks who make our magazine nō ka ‘oi (the best).

The flavors of Hawai‘i’s immigrant population are a happy medley, just like dining editor Becky Speere’s ethnic background. Speere tackles all her articles with gastronomic gusto, and continually cooks up great stories. IG @beckyeatsmaui Dining (p.64)

Photographer and world traveler Travis Rowan has been based on Maui since 2011. When he’s not shooting Hawai‘i’s most distinctive architecture and design, he can be found in the ocean surfing and scuba diving. travisrowan.com | IG/FB @travisrowanmedia At Home (p.54)

Conservation advocate and writer Judy Edwards has worked to protect the natural world for all of her 28 years in Hawai‘i. She works for a nonprofit that supports Hawai‘i’s national parks, and in her spare time, pens freelance articles to help foster a love of wildlife and wild lands. She has a special place in her heart for the unsung heroes of conservation who quietly hold the world together. Hawaiian Soul (p.46)

Growing up, photographer Darrell Wong was influenced by his father, an amateur shutterbug who snapped images of his family and charity events. Wong loves to shoot action watersports and often goes to work armed with Spam musubi and Gatorade. He’s grateful for his wonderful family, and to live in one of the most beautiful places on earth. darrellwong.com | fineartamerica.com/profiles/darrell-wong Talk Story (p.26)

Born and raised in Japan, photographer Mieko Horikoshi moved to Maui in 1994. She discovered her love for food photography when she was tied to her kitchen raising two young daughters. She’s inspired by things big and small, from a tiny mushroom to the Milky Way. miekophotography.com | society6.com/ lilikoimaui | @miekoskitchen Dining Feature (p.64) & Who’s Who (p.86)

Mahalo nui loa, me ke aloha pumehana.

Thank you, with all the love in my heart, for allowing me to share our island mana‘o (stories) with you for the past 26 years. This issue, I am honored to write one last Publisher’s Note as I turn the page of the next chapter of my life. At age 72, after nearly 40 years of publishing on Maui, and 26 years of creating Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, I am retiring.

There are so many stories I could tell you. Shall I go back to to the beginning? I ask myself. Should I talk about the years of struggle, the extravagant parties, the years I spent learning to be pono (respectful, righteous), or the best years — the years of giving back?

Then I realize that for a quarter century, I have told you a thousand stories about the people, places and wonders that make our island nō ka ‘oi — the best — and what an extraordinary privilege it has been. I am proud of what the magazine has accomplished, and am filled with gratitude for the gifts of love and support you have given back to me. My cup truly runneth over.

From the very beginning, I have been blessed with the most excep tional team members, men and women who love Maui as much as I do, and who gave their talent and mana (force, power) to make Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the best it could be. Each year, we held a “vision meeting” to plan our themes and stories, and to map out what the next year of the magazine would be like. At one of the very first of those meetings, we wanted to choose a mantra, a phrase that would capture the essence of our mission. I wrote dozens of suggestions on a white board as quickly as they were called out. It was an “anything goes” session, and laughter and jibes filled the room as the ideas flowed. Suddenly, someone suggested, “for the love of Maui.” A reverent silence took hold, and that was it.

For years to come, we would revisit that phrase, but never did we change it. “For the love of Maui” carried Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi through good years and tough years, and every story and every decision about our future was weighed against that measure. This mantra guided us into partnerships with the island’s most generous businesses, people and institutions, and enabled us to raise and contribute hundreds of thou sands of dollars to Maui’s nonprofits, including our ‘Aipono beneficiary, the culinary arts program at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College.

I am grateful to have been able to help support our students, culture, environment, keiki (children), kūpuna (elderly), adults with disabilities, and so many, many others.

Of course, the real heroes of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi are the many talented folks who, for the love of Maui, produced the most beautiful, respected and endearing magazine in Hawai‘i (at least in my opinion). You are too many to list, but I am forever indebted to each and every one of you who gave of your heart and your talents to make this magazine what it is. You are the soul of the magazine, and your love and dedication made Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi a living, breathing entity.

And I would be nowhere without my family. To my sons who tolerated a magazine as their third sibling, and my husband who provided support (and fodder) for my columns, — a huge mahalo for putting up with the past 26 years of, I can't, I'm on deadline.

I wish you all a future filled with the aloha of Maui. I wish you the time to hold your family and friends close, and to appreciate and enjoy the beauty of our island home. Take care of each other, and always, always tell your stories. No richer life exists.

With gratitude for the past 26 years,

Diane Haynes Woodburn, Publisher

Please welcome Chris and Angela Amundson of Flagship Publishing, who will take over steward ship of our beloved magazine. We wish them success and happiness in the years to come.

TALK

STORY

Fresh off the coconut wireless

Story by Lara McGlashan

Hala Pepe

If ever there was a physical manifestation of The Lorax’s Truffula trees, it would be hala pepe. The tree is a collection of slim trunks reaching for the skies, each one topped with a jaunty pom-pom of leaves. In the spring, clusters of yellow pendant flowers turn into deep-red berries.

Hala pepe means “baby hala ,” likely due to its resemblance to the Polynesianintroduced hala tree (Pandanus tectorius), which is larger and found closer to the coast. Each of the major Hawaiian islands has its own endemic species of the tree; Maui’s is Chrysodracon auwahiensis. Its name is derived from Auwahi, a dryland forest on the leeward slope of Haleakalā, and the site of many mature hala pepe.

Early Hawaiians used the leaves of hala pepe medicinally, adding them to steam baths to cure chills, fevers and head aches. They carved the soft wood into ki‘i

(Chrysodracon auwahiensis)

(idols), wove the flowers into lei, and used the bark, roots and leaves to help ease asthma. Hala pepe is also important to hula. Practitioners place a branch on the kuahu (altar) in a hula hālau (hula house) in honor of Laka, the goddess of hula, and often grow the tree in their own gardens for use in their practice.

Hala pepe has another — less whimsical — resemblance to the Truffula: both face possible extinction. The drought-tolerant hala pepe can reach 30 feet in height, but it grows so slowly that grazing cattle and feral goats threaten the tree, as do fire and human development.

Help perpetuate this important species: Plant hala pepe in place of the money tree, or join the Auwahi Forest Restoration Project on one of its volunteer trips. 808.572.2950 | auwahi.org | IG @auwahi_ forest | FB @auwahiforest

Scott Sanchez puts Kai Lenny through his paces.

The elite pro surfer is a Maui native and long-time Sanchez client.

The Man Behind

TALK STORY → day in the life Story by Ashley Probst

Maui’s Best Athletes

Scott Sanchez’s training facility in Ha‘ikū is an athlete’s paradise. The floor is an orga nized chaos of gym equipment catering to sundry sports and skill sets. In the corner is an amalgam of parallel bars, a modified kiteboard and a mini trampoline, and on the walls hang awards, autographed athlete photos, event posters and jerseys.

On any given day of the week, Sanchez can be found here training one of the many professional athletes who call his facility home, champions like kitesurfer Jesse Richman, snowboarder-surfer-skater Lyon Farrell, and all-around elite waterman Kai Lenny — who has trained with Sanchez for nearly 20 years.

Every session is different, and Sanchez pivots constantly, fine-tuning the workouts to help his clients improve physically — and mentally — and excel at his or her sport.

Years of coaching high-level competitors have honed Sanchez’s intuition, as did his own experience as an Olympic alpine ski racer in 1980 and 1984. When he retired, Sanchez began coaching professionally.

“I benefited from training with a lot of different national [and international] teams, and experienced the cultures sur rounding them,” Sanchez says. “So while I may not be an expert in all sports, I am able to find out what is affecting an athlete’s learning curve, or their ability to execute on demand.” Sometimes the issue is physi cal, sometimes it is mental; either way, Sanchez has the tools to help his clients overcome their roadblocks and race for ward to the podium.

Sanchez and his family relocated to Maui in the 1990s, and he began conducting junior windsurfing camps. Athletes came

from all over the globe to train with him. “I coached Micah Buzianis, Jimmy Diaz, Francisco Goya and Daida Moreno, and helped them win more than a dozen cham pionships,” Sanchez says.

When athletes are winning, word gets around, and Sanchez has never needed to advertise his services. To date, he has guided his athletes to more than 60 world titles, and his eclectic clientele includes skiers, snowboarders, NFL and NBA play ers, martial artists, a Formula One driver, and, of course, Maui’s most notable water sports athletes.

“Everyone can train hard, but what’s really important is the relationship, the trust, between the coach and the athlete,” says Sanchez. “The insight I have is Godgiven, and my job is to be a good steward over that.” IG @teammpg

The island of Maui is known for rainbows, beaches, nature and much aloha. But during World War II, it had a very different vibe. Story by Lara McGlashan | Photography by Ryan Siphers

Above: Haleakalā rises above a sprawling tent city on the Ha‘ikū hillside.

Left: Admiral Chester W. Nimitz visits the men of the Fighting 4th in 1944. As commander-inchief of the U.S. Pacific Fleet, Nimitz directed pivotal battles such as Midway and Iwo Jima.

PHILLIPS

MARINE CORPS ARCHIVES

Take a step back in time at the Camp Maui Museum. Owner Derek Hoyte collected these WWII artifacts from his own property, as well as from neighbors and auctions.

When Derek Hoyte purchased the 18-acre property in Ha‘ikū in 2004, he had no inkling of its history. He had noticed several large concrete pads dotted around the acreage, as well as a wide, low area that vaguely resembled a baseball field, but other than that, he simply thought it would be a nice place to build some single-family homes.

One day, he saw a man driving down the road in a restored Dodge military truck. He hailed the driver and asked where he had gotten the vehicle.

“You mean you don’t know the history of the area?” asked the man. He then proceeded to tell Hoyte the story of Camp Maui, the site of the “Mighty Fighting 4th” Marine Division during World War II — and also the site of Hoyte’s property.

Camp Maui was a 1,600-acre military base that housed more than 17,000 marines

in 2,100 tents. There were baseball fields, movie theaters, mess halls, a post office, military headquarters and a half-mile airfield. Along the topmost edge of the base is a hill whose Hawaiian name is Kauhikoa — but is better known as “Giggle Hill” because of the giggling girls the troops brought up there to neck with in the evenings.

In 1943, after finishing their combat train ing at Camp Pendleton in California, thou sands of marines were deployed directly into action. Between 1944 and 1945, the Fighting 4th traveled between Maui, the Marshall Islands and Japan, and fought four battles that helped defeat the Japanese and end the war.

The more Hoyte learned about the area, the more he wanted to pay homage to those men of yesteryear. He decided against devel opment, and instead built a single home for himself and a zipline course to take visitors

Top: An aerial view of Camp Maui. The base housed more than 17,000 marines and covered more than 1,600 Upcountry acres.

Left: Hoyte purchased this 3/4 scale replica of a Mustang P-51 plane at auction. (Yes, it actually flies!) Hoyte preserved the area that once was a baseball field, and guests on zipline tours can view this portion of Camp Maui from the air.

on a tour of the historic site by air. He opened the Camp Maui Museum on one of the large WWII-era concrete pads and filled it with artifacts, some found on the property, others purchased at auction, like the two planes hanging from the museum’s ceiling. Hoyte even bought the military truck from the man who had clued him in to the area’s rich history.

Maui was the ideal location for WWII military operations, and a total of 47 tactical training areas were set up all over the island to simulate battle conditions in the Pacific Theater.

“For example, beaches [between] Mā‘alaea and Mākena were fenced off with barbed wire to keep the public out,” says Bryant Neal, the docent at the Camp Maui Museum. “The [troops] would do maneuvers between Kaho‘olawe and Maui’s south shore with amphibious vehicles, which were the latest

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