Paddling with the Wind

Hawaiian sailing canoes travel back in time

by DANIEL IKAIKA ITO

Before jets, before propeller planes and steamships, the canoe was the mode of transport throughout Polynesia. For thousands of years, islanders launched canoes to find food, visit family, do battle and explore new lands. Polynesians settled the Hawaiian Islands sometime around 1190 to 1290 A.D. sailing on double-hulled voyaging canoes and navigating by the stars.

This indigenous science of celestial navigation was nearly lost in Hawai‘i, until Hōkūle‘a, a modern-day replica of the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe, rekindled interest in that ancient knowledge. Hōkūle‘a helped launch the Hawaiian Cultural Renaissance of the 1970s, and with it, a resurgence of Hawaiian language, hula, arts and protecting the ‘āina (land).

Today, the Hawaiian Sailing Canoe Association (HSCA) is sharing Polynesian sailing canoe culture through its annual season of nine races and community events throughout the Hawaiian Islands every summer. The sailing canoes that HSCA races are hybrids of sail-powered traditional voyaging canoes and outrigger paddling canoes. Crewed by six sailors, the vessels are 45 feet long, 16 feet wide, have an 18-inch-wide single hull, two 10-inch amas (outrigger floats) and a tramp that extends between the main hull and the amas from which sailors can operate the canoe.

The largest event, Wa‘a Kiakahi (canoe with one purpose), is at Maui’s Kā‘anapali Beach and is held in conjunction with the third and fourth races of the season in early June every year. HSCA members race from Kahului

Harbor in Central Maui to Pu‘u Keka'a (commonly referred to as “Black Rock”) on the north end of Kā‘anapali Beach, where the community welcomes them with a memorable arrival ceremony. After arriving at Kā‘anapali, on the second day, the public can ride the canoes when captain and crew members take passengers on 10-20-minute rides up to a mile out to sea. Wa‘a Kiakahi has educational and cultural opportunities on land: a “talk story” session with HSCA members, discussions about canoes and storyboards.

Native Hawaiians believe that the best way to learn is by doing, and Wa‘a Kiakahi aligns with this belief. A canoe moves through the water at its highest efficiency when the crew is paddling in unison – an example of the Hawaiian value of laulima (cooperation, joint action, to work together). Passengers can sit on the tramps but are encouraged to paddle so they can feel what it’s like to be part of the crew. Knowingly or not, guests on the sailing canoe experience laulima firsthand.

Team Olukai is a frequent HSCA race series winner with its canoe Kamakani ‘Eleu (Energetic Wind). Olukai Captain Marvin Otsuji got hooked on canoes because of his love of speed. The sail transforms these paddling canoes into sea-going rockets that glide through waves at up to 20 knots (23 miles per hour). “You’re shooting through these waves like a jet ski,” Otsuji said. “To get that feeling with a paddling canoe is very rare.”

Although the HSCA hosts other community events during its racing season, Wa‘a Kiakahi is the grandest and has the widest reach.

Through KBRA’s support, it is free and open to the public.

Wa‘a Kiakahi culminates the third day with a traditional Hawaiian blessing and the start of the HSCA’s next race from Kā‘anapali to the island of O‘ahu. Watching the sailing canoes race toward another island and disappear into the horizon is a sight that Polynesians have seen for millennia – a fitting finale to a culturally rich Hawaiian event.