Makawao Through the Ages

With a storied plantation and paniolo past, Makawao’s flavor is distinctly Upcountry.

By SERENE GUNNISON

If you were to travel back in time to the Makawao of the 1930s, you might notice parallels to the Makawao of today. Many of the building facades on Baldwin Avenue, Makawao’s main drag, remain unchanged – save for new paint jobs and updated signage. Families of wild chickens still strut through town. The former Yoshizu Fish Market, now Rodeo General Store, is still the go-to for Makawao residents to buy vegetables and other grocery essentials. And although Komoda Store is no longer a popular hangout for drinking coffee and talking story, it has grown into one of Maui's most beloved bakeries and remains a Makawao focal point.

Makawao began to emerge as Upcountry’s social and business center in the late 1800s, as ranching operations and sugar plantations opened in the area. By the 1930s, Makawao was a full-fledged township, home to billiard parlors, a movie theater, two service stations, general stores and a diverse population. Most non-Hawaiian residents during this time hailed from Portugal, Asia, the Philippines and Spain, making Makawao a model Hawaiian melting pot.

World War II brought a flood of troops to Makawao. Tam Chow Store – now Casanova Italian Restaurant – was converted into Crossroads USO, and provided recreation for the thousands of service members that lived and trained down the road at Camp Maui. Post-war,

Makawao became a desolate place. Job opportunities pulled people to Central Maui, but Makawao’s paniolo (cowboys) remained.

Surrounded by sprawling ranch lands, Makawao has long been known as a paniolo town. (For perspective, paniolos were wrangling cattle on the slopes of Haleakalā while most of the Midwest was still being settled – the first Upcountry ranch was established in 1845). But Makawao’s legacy as a cowboy hub was cemented in 1955, when Kaonoulu Ranch manager Harold “Oskie” Rice founded the Maui Roping Club and the esteemed Makawao Rodeo a year later. The Makawao Rodeo – now called the Makawao Stampede – still takes place every July and is the largest rodeo competition in the state. The rodeo is preceded by a parade through town, honoring the Upcountry community.

Makawao remained a sleepy paniolo town until the 1970s, when a renewed interest in rural living drew residents back to the area. Modern Makawao began to take shape as newcomers flocked to the town, opening restaurants and art galleries.

The Makawao of today blends new age with country spirit – an amalgamation that might typically mix like oil and water. But this combination gives Makawao its distinct flavor. After all, where else on Maui can you find old hitching posts alongside Chinese herb shops?

The Makawao Rodeo has been a tradition since 1956. Now called the Makawao Stampede, this year's event is June 30-July 2 at Oskie Rice Arena. The Makawao Parade is June 24. Above, The Maui Cookie Lady and The Dragon's Den are mainstay businesses on Baldwin Avenue.