ATE-Y WAYS AROUND THE WORLD IN MIDDLE TENNESSEE

By William Harwood

Fried pickles and cornbread, string beans and black-eyed peas, deviled eggs and country ham — all washed down, of course, by a big, cold glass of sweet tea. Nothing wrong with classic country cooking; it’s been around a while and, no doubt, it is here to stay. These days, however, classic Middle Tennessee cuisine has some international competition. Thanks in large measure to Nashville’s airport becoming an international one back in the late 1980s, our region has grown increasingly cosmopolitan, providing a home for newly-minted Americans from all over the world. In Nashville, one road in particular, Nolensville Pike, has become famous for its amazing diversity of cultures and international eateries from which to choose. The following are a few of the standouts, highlighting their flavor, flair, and authenticity!

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

❱❱ NASHVILLE VENEZUELA FOOD

If you don’t know what an arepa is, then the eponymously named Nashville Venezuela Food’s claim to make the best in town might not impress. That is until you actually eat one. Then it impresses plenty. An arepa’s base is masarepa, a type of cornmeal that cooks into cakes soft and smooth and somewhat starchy, but the perfect platforms to hold any number of good things to eat: shredded beef or chicken, fried plantains, yellow cheese, black beans, avocado, cilantro and carrot and cabbage salad. Tying it all together is a creamy jalapeño sauce, the last drops of which on your plate can be conveniently absorbed by the remaining bits of corn cake left between your fingers.

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

❱❱ GOJO ETHIOPIAN CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT

Come expecting friendly service, the scent of frankincense, and lots of authentic Ethiopian food. This amazing cuisine is served communally, typically on a round tray placed in the middle of the table. Your cutlery is already on the palms of your hands. To help scoop up the savory stews and succulent sauces, the base of the meal is made up of injera, a somewhat spongy, slightly sour, fermented flatbread that is easy to tear into pieces and dunk into the dishes.

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

As for the dishes themselves, options such as red and yellow lentils and Ethiopian cabbage ensure vegans will be happy. However, if dietary restrictions allow, two words: doro wat. Arguably the most emblematic dish of Ethiopia, doro wat — which translates as “chicken stew” in Amharic — is nothing like the chicken stew your grandma used to make. (Unless your grandma comes from Addis Ababa.) Doro wat’s punching-above-its-weight flavor profile owes its impact to niter kibbeh, a spiced, clarified butter, and to berbere, a spice blend that typically includes fenugreek, paprika, hot chiles, cardamom, and coriander. If the place isn’t too busy, request the traditional Ethiopian coffee. As much a ritual as it is an extraordinary cup of joe, the beans themselves are roasted and ground in house and served in a traditional jebena.

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

❱❱ OSH RESTAURANT & GRILL

It is reasonable to assume that most folks here have no idea whether or not they like Uzbek cuisine. It is also reasonable to assume that, outside of Uzbekistan itself, there are few places on the planet better than Nashville to discover the answer. That is because Nashville is home to OSH, a gleaming gem of a restaurant tucked inside a basic strip mall. In early 2022, this place took 9th in the nation on Yelp’s Top 100 list. Not bad for a family-owned restaurant that only opened in 2020!

As for the food, Uzbekistan once straddled the Silk Road, the perfect place to blend the flavors flowing back and forth between Asia and Europe. A great way to dive into this cuisine is simply to select from all the courses. For starters, try the lamb somsa, a crispy pastry filled with lamb and onions and spices (above). For salad, consider the vinegret, a colorful combo of diced beetroots, boiled potatoes, onions, pickles and green peas. The lagman soup is next, a tomato-based soup with lamb and vegetables and noodles. The main is osh itself, the most traditional Uzbek dish. It is a heaping plate of rice pilaf with braised lamb, carrots and spices, served with homemade yogurt and achichuk, thinly sliced tomatoes and onions seasoned with spices and basil. Make sure to save room for the irresistible flaky baklava sweet treat (below), a common dessert of Turkish cuisines.

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

PHOTOS BY NATHAN ZUCKER AND KATHY FOX

❱❱ EDESSA

Named for an ancient city in Mesopotamia, Edessa’s large dining room and Middle Eastern music sets the mood for its authentic Turkish and Kurdish dishes. For those unfamiliar with this cuisine, a great place to start is with an appetizer platter. On it are familiar items such as grape leaves, tabbouleh and hummus, but also some items less familiar: ezme, a mixture of fresh tomatoes, red and green peppers, onions, parsley, olive oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, and Turkish spices; Baba ganoush, roasted eggplants puree mixed with garlic and seasoned with fresh lemon juice, olive oil and salt; and Haydari, a creamy yogurt mixed with walnuts, garlic, mint, and melted butter. For the mains, consider the tavuk sis, the chicken shish kabob (below), or the adana kabob, chargrilled lamb and beef mixed with herbs and spices. Don’t leave without enjoying the Turkish kunefe for dessert.