Maximum Yield CAN May/Jun 2013

Page 1

cAnADA May - June 2013

FREE

FINDS:

NEW GEAR FROM THE GROW WORLD

Flavour + Feeding For

CHOOSING THE Right Cooling System

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INDOOR GARDENING EXPO MAXIMUM YIELD’S

NOVI MICHIGAN JUnE 1-2

SAN FRANCISCO

LONG BEACH

CALIFORNIA

CALIFORNIA

JULY 27-28

OCTOBER 26-27

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CONTENTS

May/June 2013

FEATURES 14

30 Feeding for Flavour by Casey Jones Fraser

36 In Balance

52

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

42 The Complexities of Defining & Measuring Light Energy by Eric Hopper

46 Roots, Shoots & the Party of Six by William DeBoer

50 Lights and CO2: Pros & Cons by Matt LeBannister

53 58 43 How to Kill Indoor Gnats by Mike Tattersall

54 Total Control: Choosing the Right Cooling System by Stephen Keen

58 Start Your Plants’ Day Right by Grubbycup

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor

60

Did You Know?

8

MaximumYield.com

64

You Tell Us

10

Letters to the Editor

66

Talking Shop

12

Simon Says

68

Max Mart

14

MAX Facts

70

Distributors

20

Product Spotlight

74

Coming up next issue


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FROM THE EDITOR | Linda Jesson

Message from the

Editor Linda Jesson

You have to love May – the days are getting longer and warmer and many of you will be expanding your gardens outside. Whether you garden inside or out, this issue provides plenty of information to get your next crop off to a great start! We feature ways to get the best possible flavour out of your hardearned harvests, ways to choose between organic and chemical nutrients and the best ways to kill those nasty indoor gnats which seem to proliferate this time of year. We have a great selection of new products to showcase and share some innovative things happening in the industry in our Max Facts section! From measuring light energy, to understanding the pros and cons of CO2 in your garden, this issue of Maximum Yield covers a lot of ground. This June 1-2, we move on east with our 2nd Annual Novi, Michigan Indoor Gardening Expo. A short trip from the Canadian border, Novi offers the perfect location to see firsthand some of the industry’s top products displayed from exhibitors from around the world. Everyone is welcome to attend to learn, network and win great gear. Check out indoorgardeningexpo.com for complete details including show times, exhibitor lists, hotel specials and more! See you in Novi!

VOLUME 16 – NUMBER 1 May/June 2013 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson editorial editor@maximumyield.com Editor-in-chief Linda Jesson Assistant Editor Jessica Skelton Assistant Editor Julie McManus ADVERTISING SALES Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Emily Rodgers - emily@maximumyield.com Kelsey Hepples - kelsey@maximumyield.com Katie Montague - katie@maximumyield.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION ads@maximumyield.com Art Director Alice Joe Graphic Designers Liz Johnston Jennifer Everts Dionne Hurd ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - accounting@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - tara@maximumyield.com CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group • Biofloral • Eddis Wholesale • Greenstar Plant Products Inc. • MegaWatt • Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations • BWGS • General Hydroponics Humbolt Wholesale • Hydrofarm • Hydro International National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply • Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply • R&M Supply • Tradewinds UK DISTRIBUTION Direct Garden Supplies • Growth Technology • Future Harvest Development Europe • Hydrogarden Nutriculture UK • Dutch Pro • Maxigrow AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply • House N Garden • Futchatec • Growth Technology • Hydraspher

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B.

Casey Jones Fraser owns Garden

Eric Hopper has over 10 years of

Heather Brautman’s hydroponics

Bill DeBoer is a laboratory scientist

Matt LeBannister developed a

Grubbycup has been an avid

Stephen Keen has been an indoor

Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

Grove Organics, in northern Kentucky/ Greater Cincinnati. He has a degree in communications and electronic media. He believes that indoor gardeners can achieve the highest-quality crops and maximum yields when proper science is applied. Since 1998, Casey has been testing various nutrients and supplements in search of outstanding harvests.

knowledge consisted of her favorite ride at Walt Disney World’s before she moved to California in October 2011. Since becoming Hydrofarm’s staff writer in February 2012, she’s been enjoying learning about grow media—like coco coir and perlite—not paparazzi. She has a master’s degrees in technical writing as well as PR/communications.

at Indiana-based steadyGROWpro. A master gardener intern, Bill is responsible for company’s laboratory operations, including the design and execution of research projects, plant propagation, seed germination and overall plant care. Bill has a BS and MS from Purdue University, and was previously a research technician for the US Department of Agriculture.

indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

gardening hobbyist for nearly 10 years. His personal successes with his garden led him to want to bring new ideas, mainly water-cooling, to the mainstream, which led to the founding of Hydro Innovations.

experience in the hydroponic industry as both a retail store manager and owner. He continuously seeks new methods and products that could help maximize garden performance. Eric resides in Michigan where he and his family strive for a self-sufficient and sustainable lifestyle.

green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, Europe, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

COMING UP ON THE WEB

Another Great Year of Expos Well Underway

Free Digital Subscription to Maximum Yield Canada

Excitement is continuing to build for the 2013 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo Tour. We just wrapped up a great weekend in Denver, Colorado, and are gearing up for our next stop in Novi, Michigan, on June 1 and 2. Start planning your appearance now and book your exhibit space today! Visit indoorgardenexpo.com for all the latest.

Now you can receive Maximum Yield Canada free to your inbox every month. Subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by simply filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

Got Questions? Get Answers. Maximum Yield’s resident expert Erik Biksa is available to answer your modern gardening questions. Email editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the “Ask the Experts” question form on maximumyield.com

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

Maximum Yield Expands Social Media Activity Maximum Yield is pleased to announce we are going to have more Facebook and Twitter activity than ever before. Look out for us on your news feeds as we’ll be asking followers for their best indoor gardening tips and tricks. Some of the things we learn might find their way into our print editions! Also coming soon on Maximum Yield's social media radar will be instructional videos from contributor Erik Biksa, who will share the videos on Maximum Yield's YouTube channel.

Connect to maximumyield.com instantly from your Smartphone with our Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of this of Maximum Yield. Now you can access the best products, the most in-depth articles and information, and the latest news at high speeds. Simply download the QR Code Reader software onto your Smartphone, scan the QR Code and your phone’s browsers takes you to maximumyield.com. It’s that simple!

Connect with US

maximumyield.com facebook.com/MaximumYield indoorgardeningexpo.com twitter.com/max_yield


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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR I’m a Fan Winners Announced

Santino Patterson from Bellmawr, New Jersey, is the second winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest. Santino said, “Maximum Yield always has the best upto-date information on all the best new products and indoor growing techniques. It’s the only magazine I need to stay on top of all my horticultural needs. Maximum Yield is by far the most insightful indoor gardening magazine out there. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that it’s Santino Patterson free! You just can’t beat it!” Thanks for the kudos, Santino, and congratulations on winning Maximum Yield’s second I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Boyer Indoor Gardening. The following month, Tye Flowers from Indianapolis, Indiana, won the third Maximum Yield I’m a Fan Contest! Tye said, “With a last name of ‘Flowers,’ you would think having a green thumb would be genetic. That’s not the case here, although I would say mine was greener than most when I started over ten years ago. When I started out, local shops were great at starting me off on the right foot, but as I had more questions I found it hard to get conTye Flowers sistent answers. Then I found the Yield! Well I think you guys have set us straight. It’s like you guys publish certain months just for me. Sometimes I’ll flip through articles that are years old and still find answers. I’m guaranteed to learn something useful.” Thanks for the kudos, Tye, and congratulations on winning Maximum Yield’s third I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Maximum Grow Gardening. Would you like a chance to win Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest? Tell us why you are a fan of Maximum Yield and you could win the monthly prize of a $100 gift card to your favourite indoor gardening shop, and also have a chance at the grand prize of a $1,000 gift card to your favourite indoor gardening shop. Simply send your testimonial, name, address, phone number and email address to editor@ maximumyield.com, or fill out the online form at maximumyield.com/ imafan. Contest closes December 14, 2013. Read what other people are saying at maximumyield.com

Hello, Maximum Yield

I read your magazine from cover to cover. Then I read it again. I’m a novice and I learn so much from Maximum Yield. When I’m out with the “pros”, I’m able to understand what they’re talking about and sometimes chime in with a bit of info I learned from Maximum Yield. Jason, Ontario, Canada 10

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

Dear, Editor

I was just reading the March/April 2013 issue of Maximum Yield Canada when I came across the article “Water Worries” [Dr. Lynette Morgan, page 28]. In it she notes that hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and bleach can be used to clean up “grubby water and pathogens”. She notes that H2O2 is deactivated when it contacts organic matter and that chlorine will dissipate over time and this is enhanced by aeration. I thought you may like to know that if you want H2O2 to be free of your water prior to it becoming neutralized by partially destroying your nutrient solution, all that need be done is expose the H2O2 treated water to UV rays. The H2O2 will degrade to plain H2O. While aquarium water treatments are fine for small water quantities, a more concentrated pond water treatment is better suited to larger quantities. I have also encountered problems with the “stress coating” that many aquarium water treatments contain. They can coat the sensitive root hairs of delicate young plants preventing uptake of nutrients. Some bleaches claiming to be more green also use sea salt in the formulation, which leaves behind salts that no amount of aeration or water conditioning solutions will destroy. Just my $0.02. Ken Ciphery (via Facebook)

Friendly Facebook Tips We recently asked our Facebook fans what has been giving them the best results for germination. Below are some of the great responses we received.

Steve Kasas

It depends on how valuable the seed is. Ideally rapid rooters, but sometimes I cheap out and go with peat pellets.

Daniel Ornelas

The old paper towel method in a Ziplock bag, and put it somewhere warm and dark. Usually on top of a PC tower or my cable box. Seems to never fail. I can’t remember a seed that didn’t pop this way.

Bena Mack

I soak in a paper towel until I see some spouts, then right in soil.

We want to hear from you! Maximum Yield Publications Inc. Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Email: editor@maximumyield.com Twitter: twitter.com/max_yield Facebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield


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simon says Hey Simon, I was thinking about trying some organics this time around, but my friend told me that it makes no difference to the plants. I remember you did a question on organics before, but do you think you could answer this one for me again? Thanks, James

It’s an interesting question, and like many I tackle, the answer is a little gray for the indoor grower. Outdoors, I recommend organics without question; the biodiversity and activity in true soils needs the interaction with organics to have great yields year after year. Indoors, it is a different story. Your friend might be a chemist, and in a narrow sense he is correct. When you look at the end result, organic nitrogen and chemical nitrogen do look very similar as they enter the plant and function, but that is like flipping to the last page of a book and not knowing how the story got there. Chemical products are water soluble and available; as soon as they are put in the reservoir, they are available. This can be an important advantage in an indoor garden, where there is not enough biology present to breakdown organic material properly. A slow nutrient release can cause problems when growing nutrient-hungry plants indoors. For this reason, a chemical base should be considered by all but the most diligent indoor growers. Also, by excluding organic compounds, you are limiting the amount of biology in your system—both good and bad. In a much slower process, organic look at the end result, nutrients follow organic nitrogen and chemical the nature of decomposition, nitrogen do look very similar which requires as they enter the plant and a food chain of various organisms function, but that is like to absorb, digest flipping to the last page of a and secrete basic organic compobook and not knowing how nents. Many of the story got there.” the microbes sold

Simon

When you

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

in our industry are key components of the soil food web. Their purpose is to digest and release available nutrients for plants. While doing this, many of them also secrete beneficial substances that can tremendously benefit your plants—even indoors. Using undigested organic material requires a strong understanding of how long each organic input takes to break down. An example would be the use of blood meal, which is water soluble and can break down quite rapidly, versus the use of feather meal, which has a similar level of nitrogen but can take months to actually start breaking down. Also, for those growing in true water systems the use of organic compounds should be knowledge-based and focused to avoid unwanted issues with recirculated water supply. However, organics do have a very serious role to play indoors, even for chemical users. The important point is to focus on compounds that provide immediate and dramatic differences. Key examples are the humates, humic and fulvic acid. Although some of the benefits are still questioned most gardeners, commercial and hobby, all agree that these compounds do provide a richer soil that is more resilient and holds more nutrients in suspension for the plants. Kelp-based products can also provide tremendous benefits with all of the organic acids they contain. Worm castings are a natural way of adding plantavailable nutrients and a vast array of biology into your soils. There are more quality organic products available every year, so keep your eyes and ears open. If you are keen on switching to organics indoors, I commend you but would also caution you to keep a little chemical product around—a base nutrient for overall slow growth and also a calcium magnesium supplement, as a cal-mag deficiency can be a recurring issue in organic systems. A digested organic liquid is your best option for an organic base nutrient, and make sure you look beyond the basic N-P-K for things like calcium, magnesium, sulphur, iron and other micronutrients. Check with your local shop for some organic options that have proven themselves and for organically fortified soil blends that provide some initial nutritional quality.


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MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Robo Bees Honey bee populations around the world are in decline due to causes ranging from super mites to cell phones, and if the insects disappear completely the planet’s ecosystems would be in peril. The issue has become so dire that a team of scientists are working on a swarm of miniature Robobee robots that could pollinate flowers and do the job of real bees if required. The bio-mimicking scheme is known as the Micro Air Vehicles Project. (Source: inhabitat.com)

MAXFACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

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Invasive Vines

Capturing the Sun’s Heat

Residents in southern Ontario are seeing an influx in invasive dogstrangling vine (Vincetoxicum rossicum)—an exotic plant originating from the Ukraine and southeastern Russia. It has been found growing successfully in both disturbed and undisturbed areas in Ontario like open fields, forest edges, parks and road edges. New research shows that temperature majorly affects the reproduction of the dog-strangling vine; therefore, it might be limited in its capacity to spread into northern climates. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

The search for sustainable new materials to store heat captured from the sun for release during the night has led scientists to a high-tech combination of paraffin wax and sand. Made from petroleum, paraffin is a waxy material that absorbs heat, melts into a liquid and releases heat as it solidifies. Research underway involves encapsulating paraffin into tiny spheres of silicon dioxide— the stuff of beach sand. The microencapsulated paraffin has several advantages, including a large surface area that can transfer heat, less reactivity with the environment and less likelihood of leaking as it changes phases. One intended application includes use inside heatregulating greenhouses. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

New Chemistry Cleared Against Potato Aphids A new class of insecticide has yielded its first entry for use against several species of aphids in Canadian potato crops. The new insecticide contains the active ingredient sulfoxaflor—the first insecticidal molecule to be commercialized from the sulfoximine class of chemicals. (Source: freshplaza.com)

Dirty Clean Salads After examining 544 samples of store-bought, pre-washed salads, researchers from Health Canada and the Public Health Agency of Canada found nearly one-tenth of the samples were contaminated with either cyclospora, cryptosporidium or giardia—parasites that can cause intestinal illness. Brent Dixon, a parasite scientist with Health Canada, said the study serves as a wake-up call but doesn’t want Canadians turning away from salad; he noted that the health benefits of eating raw greens will likely outweigh the risks of possibly developing an illness from eating them. (Source: ctvnews.ca)

Charitable Gardening The charitable gardening campaign, Plant a Row • Grow a Row, builds on the long-standing tradition of gardeners loving to share their harvest with others. It is a people-helping-people program to assist in feeding the hungry in their own communities. Participation is simple and just a matter of agreeing to donate a portion of your harvest to your local food bank. Several communities in many provinces have gotten on board since the program began in 1986. In Winnipeg alone, which is where the program got started, over 1.4 million pounds of fresh fruits and vegetables have been given to Winnipeg Harvest through the program. (Source: growarow.org)

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Battle of the Root Vegetables A recent Taste and Discover Research Study, funded by the Canadian Agricultural Adaptation Council, was designed to investigate consumers’ current vegetable and fruit preferences and develop tactics that might increase consumption. Over 5,000 participants weighed in on 27 vegetables and 14 fruits commonly grown in Canada. Carrots topped the list, while parsnips ranked a whole lot lower. (Source: ofvga.org)

Hydroelectric Power Potential Logging Debris Gives Forests a Leg up The downed limbs and other woody debris that are inevitable by-products of timber harvest could be among the most important components of post-harvest landscapes, according to a new study. Researchers found that retaining moderate levels of logging debris (around 40% coverage) helped to both directly and indirectly increase the growth rate of Douglasfir seedlings replanted after harvest. In addition to having a vegetation control effect, the retained woody debris helped promote Douglas-fir seedling growth by reducing evaporation; slowing decomposition and allowing soil carbon and other nutrients to accumulate; and inhibiting the invasion of aggressive, non-native species. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

Hydroelectric Power can be a very efficient way to produce or augment renewable energy. But if you don’t have a nearby river that’s big enough to dam, that’s where pumped storage comes in. Using the power of gravity and a reversible turbine, Toronto’s Northland power wants to convert an old open-pit iron ore mine in Marmora, Ontario, into a waterfall five times the height of Niagara Falls. Water spilling over the new waterfall could generate 400-MW of power and allow customers to take advantage of peak-time power prices when demand is high and local wind turbines typically are less active. (Source: inhabitat.com)


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store

Quick Stakes Total branch control is a necessity for all levels of gardeners! Quick Stake Plant Supports are engineered specifically to fit your support needs. With these heavy-duty locking cams, adjusting your supports are as easy as flicking a light switch. Quick Stakes are available in two easy-to-use systems. First is a preassembled four-pack, perfect for most gardeners. Second is a modular system of parts, allowing the user to create whatever support fits their need. This revolutionary, patent-pending product allows the user to control the exact height and angle of any branch in their garden. For more information, visit an indoor gardening store near you.

SolarMAX Reflector Series

Sentinel Basic Line

Rambridge Wholesale Supply is proud to launch the SolarMAX Reflector Series, formerly known as Gavita Reflector Lamps. (These lamps have always been a Rambridge product; however, to avoid confusion with the Gavita Holland line, we relinquished the name Gavita Reflector Lamps.) SolarMAX Reflector Lamps are 95% efficient and have amazing light uniformity with 10% more light on the plant canopy. They do not require any reflectors and are compatible with digital ballasts. The SolarMAX Super HPS reflector lamps are available in highoutput 400-W (58,000 lumens) or 600-W (95,000 lumens) HPS. The SolarMAX Super Veg MH lamps are available in high output 400-W (32,000 lumens) or 600-W (55,000 lumens) MH 7,200ºK. For more info, please visit a retailer near you.

The Sentinel Basic line controllers are ready for the market. The new Basic line consists of analog interface temperature controls, humidity controls, timers and relays. Separate day and night settings, remote sensors for greater accuracy and robust construction are also some of many features setting Sentinel products apart from the competition. The Sentinel Basic line is ETL listed for the United States and Canada, RoHS compliant for environmental sustainability and features the unmatched technical and product support that only Sentinel provides. For more information on these products, call or visit a grow store.

Breakout Powder Aptus Nutrients’ Breakout Powder is a bloom additive that pushes additional flowering in the late stages of bloom and can increase yields dramatically. The increased phosphorus aids in the ability for a plant to process light through its leaves (photosynthesis). Phosphorus is a key element for establishing flowers and root development, as well as in oil and sugar production. Potassium also plays a key role in this production, as well as developing starches and carbohydrates for cell division. Your plants deserve a break, give them Breakout Powder. Please visit your local indoor growing store for more information.

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Botanicare’s Kind Kind™ Plant Nutrient System is a proprietary three-part nutrient system unlike any other. Its unique formulation eliminates the need for calcium and magnesium additives or separate formulations based on grow media or water quality. It separates calcium and magnesium from trace minerals, and allows growers to easily customize their formulas. Kind also allows you to adapt to the specific needs of any grow media in any stage of growth while maintaining the ideal balance for optimum plant growth. Developed to meet the needs of fast-flowering annuals, it is a versatile, easy-to-use and effective nutrient system. Kind is formulated using highquality minerals fortified with a full array of vitamins, soluble humates, fulvic acids, silicate, amino acids, carbohydrates, potent plant stimulants and rare earth elements. Visit a retailer near you for more information.

SuperCloset SuperLocker 3.0 Launched Tight spaces were the impetus for the design of the SuperLocker 3.0. This is a 167.64- by 38.10- by 60.96-m grow cabinet that features a dual-chamber configuration. The top chamber is a mini-veggie chamber powered by a T5 light and supported by a 10-plant site SuperCloner hydroponic system. A SuperLocker 3.0 operator utilizes this miniveggie chamber to start seedlings and propagate smaller plants and clones. The bottom flowering chamber is powered by a 150-W lighting system (upgradeable to 250 W) and supported by the SuperPonic-8 hydroponic system, which features both a top-feed-drip and deep-water-culture hydroponic application that feeds eight plants at a time. Visit a store near you for more information.

Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom by Xtreme Nutrients Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom are a one-part, ultra-premium base nutrient product containing all 16 essential elements required for optimum plant growth. Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom were produced from the highest and purest pharmaceutical-grade raw materials, which enhance your plants’ abilities to get the maximum absorption of nutrients. Bon Vivant Grow and Bloom were designed to work in coco, hydroponics and soil mediums. Bon Vivant Grow was designed to stimulate root, stems and foliage. Use Bon Vivant Bloom from first week of flowering cycle until harvest. Bon Vivant Bloom was designed to promote flower and fruit development, and enhance flavour and aroma. Visit a retailer near you for more information.

The AquaBundance Modular Aquaponics System The AquaBundance Modular line of aquaponics systems are serious food producing systems for serious aquaponic gardeners. You select the sizes of the grow beds and fish tank, and how many grow beds you want given your available growing space and budget. We do the rest. You also have the option to start small and expand later. Every AquaBundance system comes complete with everything needed to get started on your aquaponics journey. Each system is designed and fully tested by Alan and Sylvia Bernstein of The Aquaponic Source. AquaBundance systems, which are with the highest-quality food-and-fish safe materials, also come with our outstanding, user-tested assembly instructions, and are backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. For more information, visit your nearest hydroponics retailer.

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Botanicare’s Hydroguard Botanicare's Hydroguard has been reinvented and is now more concentrated, more powerful and more effective than before. Its unique formula contains Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, a scientifically isolated bacterium selected for its superior ability to amplify root mass and health (especially in hydroponic gardening) when compared with the more common and well-known Bacillus subtilis. Upon application, the highly concentrated and pure strain of Bacillus bacteria contained in Hydroguard rapidly colonizes the rhizosphere. These highly specialized rhizobacteria activate the plant’s natural defense system, assist in the breakdown of organic materials and increase nutrient availability. When used throughout the growth cycle, Hydroguard continuously enhances the network of beneficial microbes your roots require, resulting in bigger, healthier and higher-quality fruits and flowers. For more information on Hydroguard, visit your local gardening supply retailer.

Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution We know it is extremely important to care for and store pH probes correctly. pH probes are sensitive glass instruments that age through normal use. The life and performance of pH probes is reduced heavily when they are stored dry. Remember, keep your pH probe wet—if it dries, it dies! Bluelab pH Probe KCl Storage Solution is made specifically for use with Bluelab pH products. Manufactured to high laboratory standards, it is designed to increase response time and maximize the life of Bluelab pH pens and probes. For best results, use the solution to store the pH probe after use, and hydrate monthly. Contact your local Bluelab retailer for more information.

Greenway Nutrients No Fungus Well, look no further! Greenway Nutrients® introduces No Fungus™. No Fungus is a natural plant extract-based fungicide. No Fungus can be applied anytime from germination to the day of harvest. No Fungus attacks a wide variety of mould, mildew and fungal spores on contact. The dual lysis action of our surface technology attacks right at the base (mycelium) while penetrating and destroying the cell pathogen. No Fungus also represses further spore germination. Whether you have a full blown outbreak or simply wish to use as part of your preventative regimen, No Fungus packs a powerful 92 to 98% efficacy upon first application. To learn more, visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

Titan Controls’ Saturn 3 Titan Controls is proud to announce the newest addition to their product line: the Saturn 3—Day & Night Temperature, Humidity and CO2 controller with optional auxiliary heating and high-temp shut-off modules. It features a wide range of controls, including: cooling/heating, dehumidify/humidify and CO2 enrichment. This adds up to a whole bunch of features in a compact, totalroom controller. The plant-friendly green LEDs show your growroom conditions at a glance. The Saturn 3 has been ETL listed for use in commercial applications. It’s easy to understand and easy to use—Titan Controls are built for simplicity. For more information, visit a grow shop near you.

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Samurai PK by Xtreme Nutrients Samurai PK is the ultimate super boost for all fruits and flowers. It is made from the purest raw material, consisting of a pharmaceutical-grade natural mineral phosphate and potassium. Samurai PK stimulates the development of bud and fruit. It functions as one of the major players in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient transport and energy transfer. For more information, visit a hydroponics store near you.

EZ-CLONE’s Clear Rez 60-ml Bottles

SolarMAX Reflector Series Rambridge Wholesale Supply is proud to launch the SolarMAX Reflector Series, formerly known as Gavita Reflector Lamps. (These lamps have always been a Rambridge product; however, to avoid confusion with the Gavita Holland line, we relinquished the name Gavita Reflector Lamps.) SolarMAX Reflector Lamps are 95% efficient and have amazing light uniformity with 10% more light on the plant canopy. They do not require any reflectors and are compatible with digital ballasts. The SolarMAX Super HPS reflector lamps are available in high-output 400 W (58,000 lumens) or 600 W (95,000 lumens) HPS. The SolarMAX Super Veg MH lamps are available in high output 400 W (32,000 lumens) or 600 W (55,000 lumens) MH 7,200ºK. For more info, please visit a retailer near you.

Options are always nice! EZ-CLONE Enterprise, Inc. is pleased to announce they are expanding their EZ-CLONE Clear Rez line. They now offer a 60-ml bottle, which is perfectly paired with the new EZ-CLONE Classic 16 Site Cloning System. EZ-CLONE Clear Rez is completely safe, non-toxic, can be used in any growing application (including soil, hydro or aero) and is safe for all stages of plant growth. To learn more, visit an indoor gardening shop near you.

Greenway Nutrients: CO2 in a Bottle? Yes, you read that correctly! Increase Grow™ and Increase Bloom™ are the world’s first all-in-one foliar fertilizers that deliver professional-grade CO2 directly to your plant’s leaf surfaces. Infused, CO2-charged and perfectly primed at 1,800 ppm, these highly concentrated products with their revolutionary trade secret formulations are simple, easy-to-use liquid foliar technologies. Our products deliver a direct charge of our isolated CO2 technology at 1,800 ppm with a complete, highly concentrated blend of Mother Nature’s raw energy (Increase Grow: 12-12-3, and Increase Bloom: 3-10-1) with no synthetic additives, fillers or chelates. Experience the results for yourself; simply open a bottle, mist to runoff, apply and let Mother Nature do the rest. It’s that simple! For more information, contact your local retail shop.

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New Gorilla Grow Tent Sizes

Radiant Green 6-3-3 Spirulina is just one of the superfood ingredients that separates Radiant Green from any other plant food on the market. Radiant Green is the ideal base nutrient, and is a complete organic herbal and bacteria supplement that supports ultimate immune health for your gardens. It’s also a biostimulant that is good for every feeding during a plant’s vegetative stage. Radiant Green is the quintessential brew and soil amendment, and it contains no fillers.

The Gorilla Grow Tent line just expanded to include new sizes to its existing line of grow tent products. Tents sizes now include a 0.91 by 0.91 m, 1.22 by 1.22 m, 1.22 by 2.44 m, 2.44 by 2.44 m, 3.05 by 3.05 m, 3.66 by 3.66 m and 3.05 by 6.1 m. These new sizes complement the existing sizes: 0.61 by 0.76 m, 0.61 by 1.22 m, 1.52 by 1.52 m, 1.52 by 2.74 m and 2.74 by 2.74 m. All are engineered with a patent-pending adjustable extension system. Place your order today at your favourite indoor gardening store.

Botanicare’s Slacker Tired of having to amend your own coco? Now you can be a slacker and experience the most cutting-edge coir-based soil ever. Slacker, available in moisture and aeration formulas, represents the latest innovation in hybrid grow media and was developed to meet the strictest demands of today’s growers. Slacker combines 100% high-pith coco fibre with carefully sourced organics, along with unique inputs such as parboiled rice hulls. By combining a soilless coco coir base with a complete range of select organic inputs, Slacker allows you to achieve the highest possible yield without compromising quality. Slacker comes buffered, charged and pH balanced. For more information, stop by your local retail grow store.

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by Casey Jones Fraser

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Every good grower wants to get the best possible flavour out of their hard-earned harvests. Some might try adding carbohydrates to their nutrient recipe—that’s a pretty good idea, but flavour and aromas are built by much more than just carbohydrates. Let’s take it step-by-step and learn all of the treats available to build phenomenal flavours in plants.

If you are harvesting

the entire plant, like a head of cabbage, stop feeding it nutrients one week before harvest.”

Vegetative growth

In the early phases of your plants’ growth, the best path is complete overall health. Give your plants a mild feeding of base nutrients (N-P-K plus micronutrients), silicates, amino acids, enzymes and beneficial rooting inoculants (fungi and bacteria). These types of products will build a strong root zone and vascular system capable of producing all of the natural terpenoids, esters, flavonoids, etc. involved in overall taste. If your crop is harvested in the vegetative phase, such as lettuce and basil, there are a couple of extra steps you can take. First, add some carbohydrates. Go with a highly available, clear, hydroponic formula for the vegetative phase, and use the product at low rates. If you are harvesting the entire plant, like a head of cabbage, stop feeding it nutrients one week before harvest.

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FEEDING FOR FLAVOUR

Transition to flowering

Once you begin the switch into flowering, you will need to make adjustments to your nutrient formula. For overall growth, flowering plants use more nutrients with increased potassium and reduced nitrogen ratios. Use high-quality nutrients for overall health, which is always the first step for taste (and everything else you want from your plants). Organics are often credited with giving excellent flavour. Indeed, I have experienced positive results from several all-natural nutrients and supplements. There are two main factors to consider when using organic products: first, organics are broken down over time; secondly, they are broken down by bacteria, fungi and enzymes. With this in mind, I highly recommend applying organics in combination with beneficial microbes and enzymes. Use these ingredients early in the flowering process; organics are somewhat time-released, so you don’t want to apply them late in the game. Microbes digest the organic matter and feed the results to your plants’ roots over the course of a few days or weeks. Some of the natural ingredients that can bring out deep, natural pungency in your plants include molasses, cane sugar, fish products, kelp, humates, fruit extracts, sea minerals and compost. For the best possible flavour, seek a nutrient program that offers all of these ingredients. (Those of you who have never used fish products or sea minerals: prepare for a delicious new flavour experience. Use these ingredients properly and you will be able to smell your tomatoes before your even step into your garden space.)

Some of the natural

ingredients that can bring out deep, natural pungency in your plants include molasses, cane sugar, fish products, kelp, humates, fruit extracts, sea minerals and compost.”

Mid-flowering

This is the stage when many growers burn their plants. Sure, your plants can take an increased level of EC or ppm in midflowering, but this does not mean you should double your nutrients rates. The plants store nutrients in their tissue; so, if you give them too much, raw nutrients are still present in the fruit when you harvest. Thus, overfeeding your plants will replace rich flavour with bland taste. If you want to increase nutrients at this stage, take baby steps. Don’t increase nutrients by more than 150 ppm each week. Continue using organic supplements in this stage, but start eliminating those products that are high in nitrogen. Blood meal and fish products should be reduced halfway to harvest—possibly even eliminated—as they can encourage leaf growth over fruit and flowers. Liquid carbohydrates should be used at full strength during mid-flowering, but always use carbs in combination with beneficial bacteria. Carbohydrates encourage the growth of bacteria and fungi. If you do not incorporate beneficial bacteria and fungi into your garden, these carbohydrates might join up with bad bacteria and rot. Rotten roots don’t foster tasty fruits!

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Late flowering

Now is the time to reduce your nutrients. Many growers are probably scratching their heads at that statement, but we are talking about maximum flavour here and too much fertilizer is a detriment to that end. You want your plants to tap into their food reserves and convert their stored nutrients into flavourful fruits. Regarding nutrients, N-P-K levels with slightly higher phosphorus can help encourage oils and balanced overall ripening. Those factors are obviously important in peak flavour. Many nutrients and supplements are available for this specific late phase of your garden; however, just be sure to not overuse them. Sweetening agents should be limited to clear, highly available carbohydrate products, as well as sea minerals. Kelp, humates and other thick organics should be reduced or eliminated in the final stages of flowering. Heavy organics might not have time to break down completely before you harvest.

Preharvest

If you grow

with organicbased nutrients, stop feeding your plants at least two weeks before harvest.”

If you grow with organic-based nutrients, stop feeding your plants at least two weeks before harvest. Water often and always use chlorine-free water. In the last week, you will need to rinse your roots thoroughly with large amounts of water. Continue passing water through the roots until the runoff water tests below 300 ppm. Keep the watering free of nutrients for these final days for the cleanest possible end results. For growers who feed with chemical nutrients, make sure you rinse for at least one week before harvest. The same rules apply concerning lots of water and low ppm. Some rinsing products exist on the market that will chelate salts that have been left over or built up in the roots. Once chelated, these salts can be rinsed away. Use rinsing products for the first day or two, but then switch to plain water (chlorine-free, of course) for the last few days.

A few more points

You will never experience perfect flavour if you aren’t giving your plants high-quality lighting and an ideal growing environment. If your plants are stricken with mould, bugs, disease, overheating or nutrient deficiencies, carbohydrates alone won’t do the trick. Grow the healthiest plants possible and the flavours and aromas will flow naturally. From there you can start adding all of the wonderful flavour-inducing supplements available at your local hydroponics supplier. Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

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In Balance Plant Steering for Vegetative and Generative Growth

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

Dr. Lynette Morgan offers her tips for balancing vegetative and generative growth through crop steering.

Growth balance is something many indoor growers might not be tuned into—after all, plants are programmed to grow leaves, flowers and fruit with little input from us. However, some of the tools used by the commercial greenhouse producers of fruiting crops can be applied on a smaller scale, and crop steering is a useful technique to know and understand. Crop steering works on the principle that there are two different types of growth with flowering and fruiting plants: the vegetative phase, which refers to foliage and stem growth, and the generative phase, where flowers form and fruit begin to set and develop. Balanced growth means the plant produces just enough foliage to support a good number of developing flowers and fruit, thus maximizing yield without putting a lot of extra energy into unnecessary amounts of foliage.

What is vegetative growth?

We often hear about plants that might have gone overly vegetative—a common occurrence under lush hydroponic growing conditions with plenty of water and nutrients. Overly vegetative crops are fairly easy to recognize. With plants like tomatoes, the stems are 36

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often very thick—sometimes described as being like tree trunks—and the foliage is lush and light green with large leaves. Overly vegetative plants also don’t have many developing flowers or fruit, as they are sending most of the assimilate produced via photosynthesis into further leaf growth. Any flowers that do develop are often small and weak and might even abscise. Thus, the canopy of an overly vegetative crop often appears very dense with many long leaves. It will present fast growth and rapidly increasing plant height but few mature fruit and sparse flowering. Strong vegetative growth is common in young plants, which naturally favour a high degree of foliage development. It’s also partially genetic. However, certain other conditions also favour vegetative growth. This sort of development is common with plants growing under mild conditions where there is little or no plant stress. Using substrates that retain a lot of moisture—such as fine-grade coconut fibre—and running lower nutrient EC levels encourages vegetative growth, as do reduced light levels, high humidity and plenty of water from small frequent irrigations, especially with young plants or those grafted on vigorous root stocks.


Well formed and sized tomato fruit require sufficient vegetative growth to support fruit development as well as the right level of fruit loading.

What is generative growth?

An overly generative plant is one that largely directs the assimilate produced to the developing flowers and fruit at the expense of further leaf development. In tomatoes, this is often described as thin growth, with leaves being small and sparse and petering out at the tops. The plant stem becomes thinner, as opposed to the trunk-like stem diameter of overly vegetative plants, and sometimes the flower clusters are short and bent in a downwards direction. Usually generative plants have a high number of flowers or fruit. While a highly generative plant might seem like a good idea in order to maximize yields, in reality this sort of lack of balance means there is insufficient foliage to support the number of flowers and fruit that form. In many crops, this will mean smaller fruit size and reduced yields. Factors that favour generative development include older plants with heavy crop loading, growing in warm conditions with high light levels, CO2 enrichment and low humidity or VPD. Freely draining growing media and restricted moisture, higher EC and harsh growing conditions caused by light and heat also tend to encourage generative development.

Getting the balance right

Experienced growers will soon learn to tell if a crop is looking a little too vegetative—often before flowering begins. This way, they can implement some measures to keep things on track. With tomato crops, there are some basic measurements that can be used to determine the vegetative-versusgenerative balance. A tomato plant with a balanced growth habit tends to have a stem thickness of approximately 8 mm in diameter at 15 cm below the growing point. A much larger diameter indicates the plant is heading in a vegetative direction, and a much thinner stem means the plant is going generative. A number of plants should be measured and the average reading taken, as there is always some natural variation between plants in a crop. Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

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in balance concepts and their effects on growth balance. A more advanced tool is available in the use of day/night temperature differentials (DIFs), which can be used to steer a crop back into more balanced growth. These differentials are widely used in commercial crop production, but they work just as well in indoor gardens where the grower has good control over temperatures, and they are also used to promote the transportation of assimilates from the leaves into the fruit. Day temperature has a major effect on plant compactness—high day temperatures tend to promote stretching and elongation of the plant, as well as an increase in leaf area. Night temperatures do not play a role in this particular relationship, but the difference between day and night temperatures is important to flowering and fruit development. Environmental conditions also play a role—low light levels and warm temperatures promote stem elongation and a tall, weak plant so, the temperature should be kept cool and matched to the light levels. A low DIF (where night and day temperatures

Flowering and fruiting crops will give optimal yields if the vegetative/ generative balance is correct.

Steering the plants in the right direction

Fortunately, there are many tools and techniques that can be used with a protected-environment hydroponic crop where the grower has control over all growth factors. Some cultivars of the most commonly grown hydroponic crops are more vegetative or generative than others, allowing some genetic control over problems like overly vegetative young plants. Tomatoes and peppers have the best selection of cultivars bred for vegetative or generative or even balanced growth habits, and it’s worth selecting these for certain growing conditions. In indoor gardens, many tomato and pepper plants respond to the highly protected environment by going more vegetative; so, selecting cultivars with a generative growth habit often helps in obtaining better yields. Tomatoes grown in a summer greenhouse with high levels of natural light and a heat stress are better selected from the more vegetative cultivars in order to give a better balance of growth under the harsher growing conditions. Cultivar alone, however, is usually not enough to guarantee a good growth balance, and some degree of growth manipulation is often required for many indoor plants.

“While a highly generative plant might seem like a good idea ... in reality this sort of lack of balance means there is insufficient foliage to support the number of flowers and fruit which form.” are similar) is used to stimulate vegetative growth, while a greater DIF (where night temperature is much lower than the day temperature) results in more generative growth. This means it’s often a good idea to impose day and night temperatures that are fairly close to each other early in the plant’s life to stimulate good foliage growth and then switch to a greater DIF with much lower night temperatures as the plant comes close to flowering and fruit set. From then onwards, tomato and pepper growers can change the DIF settings to push either vegetative or generative growth as required.

Steering with temperatures, light, humidity and CO2

As a general rule, lower light or shading favours vegetative growth and high light intensity favours generative growth. High humidity favours vegetative growth, low humidity favours generative growth. CO2 enrichment favours generative growth once flowering or fruit set has occurred because it allows greater production of assimilate from the same leaf area. Most growers understand these basic 38

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Peppers of all types and fruit sizes can have problems maintaining a good growth balance and often produce fruit in flushes.


Sizing up tomato fruit

Cucumber hybrids tend to be highly generative under good growing conditions.

Steering with EC and moisture levels

Along with temperature DIFs, conditions in the root zone act to steer plants towards more vegetative or generative growth to help maintain balance. Growing substrates with a high water-holding capacity—such as fine-grade coconut fibre, peat and vermiculite—tend to favour vegetative growth, while those with a much freer draining nature, such as coarse perlite, encourage more generative growth, although irrigation management also plays a large role in root zone moisture levels.

“Cultivar alone ... is usually not enough to guarantee a good growth balance, and some degree of growth manipulation is often required for many indoor plants.” A high moisture content in the growing media created with the use of frequent irrigation and a relatively low EC of the nutrient solution will promote water uptake by the plant and encourage vegetative growth. Applying controlled plant stress with the use of higher EC or deficit irrigation practices will have a more generative effect. Deficit irrigation might include reducing the volume applied in each watering, allowing more time between irrigations and allowing the media to dry slightly overnight by restricting early morning and evening irrigations. This type of deficit irrigation and the use of high EC to force plants into generative growth must be used with caution, however, as moisture fluctuations in the root zone can lead to an increase in fruit splitting and cracking. They are also associated with an increase in blossom end rot development in tomatoes and peppers under certain growing conditions.

Sizing up slow-growing immature tomato fruit is based on the fact that warm parts of the plant (growing points, fruit, leaves) attract more assimilate than colder parts do. A small difference in temperature can make a considerable difference to the distribution of assimilate within the plant—thus warm fruits attract more sugars for growth than those that are cooler. A good technique used by growers to boost fruit growth and size is the pre-night drop. This process involves allowing the plants to receive increased warmth in the late afternoon. This heat is then absorbed by the fruit tissue, while sugars accumulate in the photosynthesizing leaf tissue. The temperature is then dropped back quickly by several degrees in the evening. The drop in temperature causes the thinner mass of the leaves at the top of the plant to cool quickly, while the fruit—having a much larger mass—remains warm for longer. The cooled leaves then unload their assimilate sugars to the warmer fruit tissue, forcing more sugars for growth out of the foliage and into the fruit. Overall, the 24 hour temperature average is not affected by this process, so it does not affect plant internode length or stem diameter. The rate of assimilate importation into the developing fruit determines fruit size and the amount of assimilate that is sent into the fruit is highly dependent on the temperature of the fruit tissue—the warmer the fruit tissue, the more sugars are imported into the fruit. The optimal fruit temperature for sugar importation is between 22.78 and 25oC. As an example, the pre-night temperature drop might be from a lateafternoon warming of up to a maximum of 25oC, followed by a drop of three to four hours at 15.56 to 16.67oC in the evening. From then onwards normal night temperatures are run. This technique works best in indoor gardens that have good temperature control, and is highly effective provided it is carried out correctly—some growers use infrared thermometers and internal fruit sensors to check leaf and fruit temperatures when they first attempt this process to ensure that there is a sufficient temperature difference between the leaves in the head and the warmer fruit below.

Young plants tend to be quite vegetative in nature.

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in balance

Large-fruited bell peppers tend to grow with alternating periods of leaf and fruit growth.

Under hot/high light summer conditions, tomato crops can become overly generative with small, sparse leaves and a very heavy fruit load.

Plant steering with peppers and crop unloading

Summary

Peppers tend to grow in flushes, with periods of leaf growth alternating with periods of fruit growth. This usually results in fruit being harvested in flushes during the first few months of the crop, which is a normal growth cycle. However, this is a cycle not favoured by growers wanting a regular supply of fruit. Usually, after the second flush of fruit is harvested, pepper plants will then resume a more balanced state of growth with a consistent pattern of vegetative and generative growth. There is little that can be done about this natural cycle of vegetative and fruit growth in peppers, but if the halt to vegetative growth goes on for too long, yields can be reduced and future harvests delayed. One effective method of forcing both pepper and tomato plants into unloading some fruit so that vegetative growth can be speeded up is to increase the temperature. Another method is to harvest some fruit before they are completely ripe. Unloading makes more assimilate available for other parts of the plant—such as the growing point, foliage and flowers—and helps restore the plant balance. This benefits production in the long term and is particularly useful in young pepper crops.

To direct plants into a more vegetative growth habit: Shade crop or reduce light (but not so low as to severely restrict photosynthesis); apply frequent irrigations; allow less dry-down of the root zone overnight; use moisture-retentive, fine-grade growing media; lower EC; increase humidity; reduce day temperature; use a low DIF (similar day/night temperatures). To direct plants into a more generative growth habit: Apply a little stress—increase EC, restrict moisture in the root zone, allow media to dry slightly more overnight. Increase light levels and temperature, increase CO2, drop back humidity. Use a freer-draining media or more careful control over irrigation, drop back irrigation frequency and amount. Use a greater DIF (night temperatures much lower than day temperatures). For sizing up fruit, use the pre-night temperature drop method to force assimilate out of leaves and into developing fruits.

“Usually, after the second flush of fruit is harvested, pepper plants will then resume a more balanced state of growth with a consistent pattern of vegetative and generative growth.” Peppers respond to fruit unloading practices if vegetative growth has been severely limited by a heavy crop load.

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A wide range of crops need manipulation of the vegetative/ generative balance, including melons.


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The Complexities of and

Light Energy by Eric Hopper

Light is light, right? Well, human eyes perceive light as colour, with each shade corresponding to a different wavelength. However, there are also some light waves that have frequencies too high or low for us to see. Light, it seems, is pretty darn complex...

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Light energy is an extremely complex property to measure. In order to better understand light energy and its relation to our world, we have developed many ways to quantify light.

Light measuring terminology Luminous intensity: a measurement of the light power emitted from a point source within a solid angle of one steradian (light is emitted in a spherical shape and a steradian is a cone section of the sphere used as a standard unit of measurement, stemming from the point of luminance).

Luminous flux: the measurement of the perceived power of light. The unit of measurement for luminous flux is the lumen (lm). Lumens: Units of measure for luminous flux. One lumen represents the luminous flux of light produced by a light source that emits one candela of luminous intensity over a solid angle of one steradian. Candela: Unit of luminous intensity based on the standard luminous intensity per square centimetre of a blackbody radiating at the temperature of solidification of platinum (2,046ºK). One candela equals 1/60th of the luminous intensity as the standard blackbody intensity.

Lumens are for humans: The luminosity function For me, and many others, the common terminology used for light measurement is just downright confusing. The good news is that only a basic

“The most important concept to understand is the concept of the luminosity function, which is the standardized model of the human eye’s sensitivity to different wavelengths.” Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

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The complexities of defining and measuring light energy

understanding of lumen-based measurement needs to be had to evaluate horticultural lighting sources for their effectiveness on photosynthesis. The most important concept to understand is the concept of the luminosity function, which is the standardized model of the human eye’s sensitivity to different wavelengths. Lumens, candela, luminous flux and luminous intensity are all intertwined and weighted by the luminosity function. What this means is all lumen-based measurements are structured around a human’s ability to perceive light. What is most interesting about luminosity function, however, is that a human’s perception of light differs greatly from a plant’s perception of light. The human eye is extremely sensitive to green and yellow wavelengths. In fact, the way we perceive the brightness of a light source depends on the amount of green and yellow light emitted from that source. Plants, on the other hand, reflect most green light and use only a small portion of yellow light for photosynthesis.

Wavelengths and colour The most common way we define light colour is by its wavelength and the most common way to express light wavelength measurements is in nanometres (nm), which is one billionth of a metre. Humans have a visible spectrum of 380 to 780 nm, which accounts for all of the colours we see. Light wavelengths measuring below 380 nm are considered ultraviolet and light wavelengths that measure above 780 nm are considered infrared. The human eye is most sensitive to 550 nm (green light).

PAR is for plants Most plants appear green to our eyes because they are reflecting green light, not absorbing it. Plants possess a special molecule known as chlorophyll, which

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“Although we have yet to fully understand the way plant evolution is linked with light energy, we do know that a plant’s perception of light cannot be broken down to a single denominator or measured by the perceived brightness of a light source.”

absorbs sunlight and uses its energy to synthesis CO2 and water (using the process known as photosynthesis). Interestingly, chlorophyll—which actually gives the plant its green colour—uses a relatively small portion of the visible light spectrum. The two types of chlorophyll (a and b) absorb light in the 410 to 460 nm range (blue light) and the 630 to 670 nm range (red light). These two ranges of absorbable wavelengths of light are known as photosynthetically active radiation, or PAR.

Measuring light for horticultural purposes When measuring the amount of usable light for photosynthesis, we need to measure a light source’s PAR output. Thankfully the indoor horticultural industry has answered the call for plant-specific light measuring devices and has started to introduce PAR-specific light meters. Most of these meters give a measurement of the total amount of light energy being produced between the 400 to 600 nm range. These meters are not perfect; however, they fail to exclude the 170 nm of mostly unusable light between 460 and 630 nm, and they don’t take into consideration the peak nanometres of absorption for chlorophyll a and b. Nonetheless, these meters bring us toward a new era of light measurement devices for the hobbyist horticulturist and give the consumer the ability to compare available lighting technologies to each other. When using a PAR meter, a grower can compare bulbs by their spectral output instead of just a perceived brightness. Eventually, even more accurate measuring devices (like nanometre-specific sensors) will


be available at a reasonable cost and offer indoor gardeners a comprehensive analysis of their lighting in terms of PAR output. Also, don’t throw away that old candela or luminous flux meter. Although these meters won’t tell you the amount of usable PAR energy emitted from a light source, they can still be used as a comparative tool in your indoor garden. For example, a luminous flux/candela meter could be valuable in determining beneficial cross patterns from reflectors, determining the best light footprint, measuring the effectiveness of reflective materials for light diffusion, etc.

Colour temperature—Kelvin Kelvin (K) is actually a unit of temperature measurement, but it is also used to represent colour in regards to lighting applications. The Kelvin colour temperature scale is determined by corresponding temperature with the colour emitted by a blackbody object as it is heated. This scale is a common method of rating horticultural bulbs for their peak colour output, and many horticultural bulbs are intended for a specific purpose that can be represented by their Kelvin rating. For example, high pressure sodium with a 3,000° K (red light) is commonly used in a fruiting or blooming room where a peak in red light would enhance ripening. Another example would be a specialty metal halide bulb with a 7,000° K (blue light) rating, which is used specifically for vigorous vegetative growth. You’ll find most horticultural bulbs have a Kelvin rating in the blue or red spectral range.

Again, this is to target the specific wavelengths used for photosynthesis. However, it’s important to note that these bulbs emit a full spectrum of colours, not just the colour represented by the Kelvin scale. Although the Kelvin colour temperature scale is used to represent colour output, it does not define a specific wavelength; therefore, it is not interchangeable or convertible with nanometres.

Ultraviolet (UV) Although plants only use specific wavelengths for photosynthesis, scientists believe that other light spectrums could also benefit plants. In fact, there have already been many discoveries that link certain light wavelengths to beneficial organisms and hormonal responses within plants. Ultraviolet light, for example, can cause hormonal changes that directly affect the structural growth of many plants. Some plants have even evolved specific oils for protection against UV lighting or to reverse the light’s negative effects. Some scientists also believe ultraviolet light is key for young plants to build resistances to harmful bacteria and other pathogens. Over millions and millions of years, plants have not only evolved their shape, but also the way they absorb and are altered by light energy. One example is the chlorophyll molecules that allows them to absorb particular wavelengths for photosynthesis. Although we have yet to fully understand the way plant evolution is linked with light energy, we do know that a plant’s perception of light cannot be broken down to a single denominator or measured by the perceived brightness of a light source. Our science to measure light is evolving and as our knowledge of light energy in relation to plant functions expands and evolves, so will the technology used to measure it.

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Roots, Shoots Party Six & the of

by William DeBoer

For some people, hydroponics is counterintuitive. Don’t plants’ roots rot in water? How do you know you are providing the right nutrients to the plants? Isn’t it costly and less efficient than planting in soil? In this article, William DeBoer dispels some of these misgivings—as well as breaks down a few complex ideas into simple ones—by looking at water quality in hydroponic systems…

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20ºC

CaCO3


Hydroponics is the soilless growth of plants by immersing the roots in a nutrient solution. This nutrient solution can be administered in an open system (a one-time flushing of the roots) or a closed system (where the solution is recirculated repeatedly). For hydroponic growers, the relationship between roots and shoots is paramount. Roots need carbohydrates produced by the leaves for growth. Likewise, leaves depend on the roots for water (maintaining turgor pressure) and nutrients for assisting photosynthesis and various other biological processes. Since these plants are growing mostly in an aqueous environment, monitoring the water quality is integral for obtaining positive results. Just as water quality is important to aquarium enthusiasts, so too should hydroponic growers have knowledge of certain parameters. Those parameters include temperature, dissolved oxygen (DO), pH, total dissolved solids (TDS), electrical conductivity (EC) and hardness and alkalinity. While most of these parameters do not need to be monitored

Just as water quality is important to aquarium enthusiasts, so too should hydroponic growers have knowledge of certain parameters.” on a weekly basis, all are important in regard to initial set-up. First, let’s discuss the role of temperature on plant growth. Temperature impacts plant growth directly through kinetics. Lower temperatures will reduce absorption of water/ions by the roots, while increased temperatures will have the opposite effect. In addition, temperature has a direct impact on cellular respiration and DO in water. For example, if the temperature increased from 20 to 30oC, the saturation of DO decreases by 17%, while the rate of

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Roots, shoots and the party of six

When looking

at water sources, inherent dissolved oxygen can range from 20 to 40% saturation; however, levels below 60% saturation can lead to decreased vigour. oxygen (O2) consumption via cellular respiration doubles. Therefore, the level of DO decreases and the demand for oxygen increases as temperature increases. As a general guideline, optimal temperature between 20 and 30oC will facilitate ideal plant growth in hydroponic systems. Now, let’s review the connection of temperature and DO in water. Arguably, one of the most important, albeit sometimes overlooked, water quality parameters in hydroponic systems is dissolved oxygen. Without adequate levels of oxygen, cellular respiration of root cells is reduced or ceases entirely. This reduction in oxygen leads to decreased water/ion absorption, which causes nutrient deficiencies and decreased growth. In anaerobic conditions, root necrosis (death) can occur, leading to total loss of the plant. Dissolved oxygen is less problematic in open systems than closed systems because of the constant inundation of water to the roots. As temperature increases, there is a decrease in the saturation of dissolved oxygen in water coupled with an increase in metabolic oxygen demand. The dissolved oxygen saturation point for temperatures of 20 and 30oC is 8.84 and 7.53 ppm, respectively. When looking at water sources, inherent dissolved oxygen can range from 20 to 40% saturation; however, levels below 60% saturation can lead to decreased vigour. Thus, mechanical mixing of water or adding O2 via air pumps might be a necessary step to maximize plant growth. As for the impact of pH on nutrient availability, the pH of water directly affects the availability of essential elements. Water and nutrient solutions are best kept slightly acidic, with a value of 6 to 6.5—though it is acceptable to maintain pH between 5 to 7. Extremes of pH should be avoided. If the solution is too acidic

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(below 5), then toxicity might occur due to excessive absorption. If the solution is too basic (above 8), then nutrient deficiencies could occur due to precipitation of certain micronutrients. Another method of monitoring nutrient content is with total dissolved solids (TDS). Total dissolved solids is the measure of both organic (proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) and inorganic (most of the nutrients) content of water. Like many of the parameters discussed, extreme values of TDS should be avoided. Total dissolved solids should not exceed 1,400 ppm with an acceptable range between 200 and 500 ppm. Levels below 100 ppm could indicate reduced nutrient availability and additional fertilizer is required. Electrical conductivity (EC) is the main way of estimating nutrient content. Electrical conductivity provides information pertaining to


dramatic swings in pH. The ideal level of alkalinity also depends on the grower. For some, the ability to adjust the pH quickly and easily is more ideal than the alternative. This is especially the case when reverse osmosis filtration is used to create soft water in hard water areas. Avoid using ion exchange resins (water softeners) as these units replace Ca2+ and Mg2+ with sodium (Na+) often at concentrations that are detrimental to plants. Hydroponics is a dynamic method for growing plants and hopefully this article has provided helpful guidelines and useful information, whether you are novice or an expert in hydroponics. Many of these recommendations are based on general principles and, as such, are not applicable to every plant. Always research the plant of interest, as well as your water source, prior to starting up a hydroponic system. References

the concentration of ions and/or salt content in solution. For general purposes, your water source should have an EC value below 1 dS/m. Water that is hard (contains Mg2+ and Ca2+) will have a larger EC value than soft water. Once you add nutrients (fertilizer) to the water, the EC value should be maintained above 1 dS/m and below 3 dS/m depending on the salts used. Ideal EC values of the nutrient solution should be between 1.5 and 2 dS/m. Carefully monitor water levels as quick evaporation can lead to salt toxicity due to a concentrating effect. Finally, let’s look at the role of hardness and alkalinity on water sources used in hydroponics. Hardness and alkalinity are important factors when evaluating ideal water sources. Hardness measures the amount of calcium and magnesium ions dissolved in water. Water that has a high amount of Ca2+ and Mg2+ (> 61 ppm) is said to be hard while water that contains low or no amounts (< 60 ppm) is soft. It is the author’s opinion that there is not an ideal hardness, but you have to take into account the levels of magnesium and calcium in your source water when determining your nutrient solution. Indeed, the water source could contain the necessary amount of both ions so that supplementation is not necessary. Alkalinity measures the acid neutralizing ability of the water. A high alkalinity (above 100 ppm, if calculations are based on mg/L of CaCO3) will be very resistant to changes in the pH, while a low alkalinity or low buffering capacity of water can lead to

J.B. Jones Jr. Hydroponics: A Practical Guide for the Soilless Grower. St. Lucie Press, 1997. Savvas, D., and H. Passam. Hydroponic Production of Vegetables and Ornamentals. Embryo Publications, 2002. USGS Website on Water Hardness and Alkalinity. http://water.usgs.gov/owq/hardness-alkalinity.html

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Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013


For

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a hugely important com2 ponent in the process of photosynthesis and, therefore, overall plant health. This is especially so with rapid growing plants. There is roughly 300 to 400 ppm of CO2 in the air we breathe and rapid growing plants can use that up very quickly. Grow can dramatically slow when the CO2 levels drop below 200 ppm. Enriching your growroom to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm of CO2 is the logical next step to improve plant development. At this range, plant growth is accelerated as much as two to three times and crop yields can be increased by 20 to 30%. For CO2 enrichment to be effective one must have all other aspects of their indoor garden running perfectly. One main factor that I have been asked about recently is lights and which style of lights are the best for gardens utilizing CO2 enrichment. Here, I offer some pros and cons regarding the most popular types of garden lights. Just keep in mind much of this is based on personal opinion. Each of the following varieties will do the job, some just better than others.

CO enrichment to be effective, one must have all other aspects of their indoor garden running perfectly.”

Fluorescent

Fluorescent light bulbs come in a number of varieties. The most popular for gardens are the newer T5 highoutput bulbs. They usually come in banks of two or more and are generally 61- to 122-cm long.

Pros

There are benefits to gardening with fluorescent light bulbs. They create even lighting and can be positioned all around the garden, even vertically. And can be placed very close to the leave canopy. They are low wattage and will save you some money on your electricity bill and are low heat.

Cons

The fact that they are low heat can be a bad thing when enriching your growroom with CO2. Plants benefiting from CO2 enrichment can tolerate higher temperatures and actually prefer it. A room temperature of 30ºC will boost the metabolic rates of the plants and speed up growth.

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Lights and CO2

Rapid growing plants, especially those boosted by CO2, need as much light as possible. Fluorescent lights, even T5s, are not intense enough to really maximize the benefits of the extra CO2. Replacing fluorescent bulbs and changing them for different stages of growth, i.e., bloom and vegetative, can be very costly. After a year of use, the lumen output of these bulbs will have dropped dramatically.

HID

bulbs do give off considerable heat; however, this can be beneficial for plants being enriched with CO2, as they do best around 30ºC.”

In my opinion, fluorescent bulbs are not ideal when enriching your garden with CO2.

LEDs

LED stands for “light emitting diodes.” They are relatively new to the market and are no doubt the future of indoor gardening.

Pros

LEDs use an extremely low amount of electricity. They also give off next to no heat and can safely touch the leaf canopy without the risk of burning. LEDs can also last upwards of 10 years without requiring replacement.

Cons

There are downsides to using LEDs in CO2enriched gardens. LED light fixtures are not really available in larger sizes yet and most CO2 enhanced gardens are at least 3.05 by 3.05 m. It is really hard to regulate the amount of CO2 in a space any smaller than that and most LEDs on the market today are really only suited for 1.22- by 1.22-m spaces. The spectrum on most LEDs is neutral and not interchangeable for the bloom and vegetative stages of plant growth. LEDs are also very low heat which, as mentioned with the fluorescent, can hinder plant growth. There is no doubt in my mind that LEDs are the future of indoor gardening and will someday replace all types of gardening lights, but right now I feel like they are still unproven. That, coupled with their lack of heat and intensity mean they are not ideal for CO2-enriched indoor gardens unless they are set up in large arrays.

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HIDs

High intensity discharge (HID) is a broad term for metal halide (MH), high pressure sodium (HPS) and mercury lamps. They come in a variety of strengths and spectrums.

Pros

One-thousand-watt HID bulbs can cover an area as large as 2.45 by 2.45 m or higher. You can interchange MH bulbs for the vegetative stage of plant development and HPS for the bloom stage of plant development, thus maximizing the PAR watts within each spectrum. This is also cost effective by comparison versus fluorescent bulbs especially when you consider the digital ballasts available that can fire both MH and HPS bulbs. HID bulbs do give off considerable heat; however, this can be beneficial for plants being enriched with CO2 ,as they do best around 29.44ºC.

Cons

High levels of heat can be detrimental if it causes evaporation of the nutrient solution in your reservoir. This can cause the nutrient levels to become too concentrated, leading to nutrient toxicities and leaf burn. One must be vigilant and constantly check and maintain the ideal nutrient to water ratios. HIDs do need annual replacement to maintain high lumen levels and spectrum. In addition, they are high-wattage lights; so, you will spend more on electricity than the previously mentioned alternatives. In my opinion, HIDs are still the go-to light when enriching your garden with CO2. They are tried and tested, have the heat the plants will crave and are intense enough to efficiently cover larger areas. All of these lights will work fine when adding CO2 to your garden. My choice of HIDs over fluorescents and LEDs is largely based on personal opinion and anecdotal evidence. Don’t be afraid to try things out for yourself or consult your local hydroponic retailer for their expert opinion.


Âť by Mike Tattersall

How to

KILL

Indoor Gnats

Gnats. These tiny, yet harmless, insects are a common pest nuisance inside the home, especially during warm weather of spring and summer when conditions are ideal for their survival. While there might not be a way to avoid them completely, you can treat the problem once these uninvited guests set up camp in your home. Gnats are commonly found in houseplants and are attracted to ripe fruit and vegetables in your kitchen. In fact, they are in the same family as fruit flies. To keep pesky gnats at bay, follow these simple guidelines. Houseplants that are infested with indoor gnats need to be taken outside. Once outside, take off the top layer of soil and replace with a new layer. Gnats breed in the soil, so once you remove the old topsoil, you are effectively eliminating the eggs that will otherwise become even more hungry gnats. Be sure not to overwater your houseplants as this unintentionally creates the conditions that gnats love to breed in. To kill the indoor gnats that are hanging around your kitchen, there are several things you can do. First, place any fruit and vegetables inside your refrigerator and do not leave food on your counters. Food, especially fruit and vegetables that are left out in the open, is like a big,

flashing welcome mat for gnats. Simply put, gnats need food to survive. If you take it away, they will die. Be sure to store your trash in a sealable container or within a cabinet. If gnats can easily access the food located in your trash, they will continue to feed and, thus, stay happily satisfied in your home. Take the trash out regularly to keep the old food out of your home and away from tempting hungry gnats. To trap and kill persistent gnats that are still indoors, fill a bowl with vinegar. Gnats love the smell of vinegar. Seal plastic wrap over the bowl

and poke a few holes into the wrap, to create a trap for the gnats. They will find their way into the vinegar, but they will not be able to get out and will soon die. Refill the bowl with new vinegar as needed. Ammonia can be effective for keeping gnats away from the drain in your kitchen sink, where rotting food is likely to be. Pour a little down the drain and do not use your sink for a few hours so the scent is not washed away. Indoor garden stores sell sprays that are specifically formulated to kill indoor gnats. Because these sprays contain pesticides, be extra cautious where you spray them and avoid spraying them in areas where food is served or consumed. (Source: www.howtodothings.com) Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

53


Total Control: choosing the right cooling system There are all kinds of options available to you when choosing the ideal cooling system for your garden—the tricky part is balancing upfront costs and energy savings to come out with an equation that makes sense for your particular space…

by Stephen Keen

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Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013


So you’ve decided to build a new garden—oh, the choices you have to make! What kind of reflectors, bulbs and ballasts? How many plants will fit in the space? Do you want to use a hydroponic system or traditional soil methods? And what kind of cooling system will work best for you? Of course, the size of your garden will have a huge effect on the system you choose, but there are a lot of other variables, too. Energy efficiency, geographic location and personal preferences will all be part of the decision. The first thing that must be considered is the size of the system that you need. Sizing a cooling system for a garden is quite different from sizing an air conditioner for a home or commercial building. A garden has many more sources of heat than your home—all in use for long periods of time—and all of those heat sources must be considered in order to accurately size the cooling system. The sources of heat in your garden are things like bulbs, ballasts, pumps, dehumidifiers, CO2 generators and the ambient outside temperature. There is an excellent chart included in this article that can assist you with determining the specific heat load in your garden. Keep in mind that the chart assumes that your garden is completely sealed with no air cooling of the lights and that insulation is moderate. Heat is measured in BTUs per hour

water evaporates. However, Most A/C systems are intended to this method is run only in summertime when the far more effective in weather is warm, so you’ll need to greenhouse verify that your choice can be used applications than in a typical indoor without damage to its components garden because the when outdoor temperatures are evaporation of water into the air results in a drastic below freezing.” humidity increase. Most of us are battling humidity already and would prefer not to add range of sizes are multiple options, to the problem by creating even more. upgrades, configurations and energy Also, as the humidity in the garden ratings to choose from. increases, the less likely the water from When you choose an air condithe evaporative cooler is to evaportioner for your cooling needs, keep ate—so, eventually you add so much in mind that you’ll likely be using it humidity to the environment that you all year-round. Most A/C systems are don’t get any cooling at all and you intended to run only in summertime run the risk of your garden ending up when the weather is warm, so you’ll hot and humid. Evaporative coolers need to verify that your choice can are a great solution if you can make be used without damage to its comthem work consistently in your appliponents when outdoor temperatures cation, but in the indoor gardening are below freezing. Modifications world, their use is extremely limited. like compressor heaters, low-ambient start kits and other minor fixes might

and cooling systems are sized based on the BTUs per hour they’re capable of removing. Generally speaking, 1 t (ton) of cooling capacity is equal to 12,000 BTUs. So, once your heat load is determined, the fun begins. What kind of cooling system should you choose? There are so many options available and they all have their pros and cons.

Evaporative coolers A low-cost, energy-efficient method— particularly in greenhouse cooling— is the evaporative cooling method. Water absorbs BTUs when it evaporates, resulting in general cooling. Evaporative cooling methods take advantage of this process by spraying a fine mist of water into the air. Then the temperature is reduced as the

Traditional air conditioning Traditional air conditioning systems are available in every imaginable size and application, ranging from the 5,000-BTU window system to the 240,000-BTU 20-t commercial rooftop monster. Within this

need to be made. You should also understand that most air conditioners will begin to lose efficiency when the outdoor temperature gets above 26.67°C. If you purchase a 5-t system, it’s likely only outputting that 5 t. of actual cooling when the temperature is no warmer than 26.67°C outside. If it’s any warmer, you might only get 4.5 t and when it’s outrageously hot, you might only get 3.5 or 4 t of cooling from it. The amount of efficiency loss varies Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

55


Total COntrol by brand and model, but when you live in a very hot climate you should always choose an air conditioner that’s at least 10% larger than you really need to compensate for the efficiency loss in the very hot months, or you should plan on a backup method for those extremely hot days. Window-mount air conditioners are a common choice for the small garden. They are convenient, lightweight, inexpensive and easy to install. The

largest window-mount system commonly available is about 24,000 BTU (2 t), so unless you have multiple units, the most you can expect to cool with this size A/C is a 4,000- to 8,000-W garden. Obviously this figure covers a pretty wide range. The wattage that can be cooled with a 2-t A/C varies wildly, based on whether you’re air cooling your lights, if your garden is sealed, what the outdoor ambient temperature is and what other equipment you might

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have running besides the lighting. Window mount air conditioners don’t provide quite as many options with regard to energy efficiency as the larger units typically do, but their convenience and low cost will often outweigh this, especially in a very small garden.

Because there is so much more heat contained in the water than would be contained in air, when the compressor of the chiller does come on, the capacity of the refrigerant to hold heat is maximized.”

In larger gardens or when energy efficiency is more important, a split or self-contained whole-house A/C is often a better choice, as there are a multitude of options available with this type of system. The higher the SEER (efficiency) rating the more energy efficient the unit will be. You can choose to go with a traditional home A/C, but these units will always require that an HVAC technician installs them. Within our industry there are several manufacturers of do-it-yourself A/C systems and most gardeners choose to go this route. These units can be purchased (usually by special order) at any indoor gardening retail store. The split units with pre-charged refrigerant lines are typically available in sizes ranging from 2 to 5 t. They consist of an indoor air handler and an outdoor condenser/compressor; the cold refrigerant circulates through the air handler and the air from the garden circulates over the heat exchanger in the air handler— just like the central A/C system in most homes—except that end-users can connect the refrigerant lines themselves. In larger

configurations, there are also selfcontained models available, typically from 5 to 20 t. These units have the entire refrigeration system located in one box and all you have to do is connect ducting to install the system—with no refrigeration connections needed, installation is made very simple. Most very large commercial buildings use this type of set-up, except in cases where a chiller system is employed (more on that later). Consider that once you get over 5 t you’ll be looking at a fairly sizable unit, so you’ll need to organize the equipment and manpower to get it properly placed in your facility.

Chiller systems Chiller systems are the Cadillacs of cooling. They are generally more expensive than A/C systems, but they can be as much as 30% more energy efficient than a high SEER A/C system. There are a few reasons for this—one is that the heat capacity of water is quadruple that of air, so it takes four times as much heat to increase the temperature of water than it does to increase the temperature of air. A traditional air conditioner comes on when the air in the room increases in temperature, but the compressor on a chiller won’t come on until the water increases in temperature. Because it takes so much longer for water to heat up, the chiller will run less often to achieve the same cooling results—as long as there is cold water in the system, you get air conditioning even when no energy is being consumed by the chiller. Because there is so much more heat contained in the water than would be contained in air, when the compressor of the chiller


Cooling System Sizing Chart

How to use the sizing chart: Fill in the blanks on the left, multiply by the BTUs indicated and then add them up for a total heat load. How many 1,000 watt HID bulbs inside the garden?

________

x 4000 BTU

= ________

How many 1,000 watt magnetic ballasts inside the garden?

________

x 3500 BTU

= ________

How many 1,000 watt digital ballasts inside the garden?

________

x 2500 BTU

= ________

How many 600 watt HID bulbs inside the garden?

________

x 2400 BTU

= ________

How many 600 watt magnetic ballasts inside the garden?

________

x 2100 BTU

= ________

If using a CO2 generator, enter cubic feet of garden (lxwxh):

________

x 1500 BTU

= ________

If using a dehumidifier, how many pints per day?

________

x 2.4 BTU

= ________

BTU’s required for room with no equipment running (see separate chart):

________

x 30 BTU

= ________

Add all together for total cooling BTU’s needed: = ________

does come on, the capacity of the refrigerant to hold heat is maximized. This means that chillers don’t typically start to lose efficiency until the outdoor temperatures are closer to 37.78°C, because the differential between the outdoor temperature and the temperature of the refrigerant is much higher than it is in a traditional air conditioner. Most large commercial buildings such as hospitals, hotels and major manufacturing facilities employ chiller systems for their cooling needs because of the extreme savings in energy consumption. Chiller systems generally consist of an outdoor water chiller and indoor air-to-water heat exchangers with fans. These can be small heat exchangers with external fans for the small garden, or large air handler systems for larger gardens. They are simple to install because no refrigeration work is needed. The only thing traveling between the outdoor chiller and the indoor heat exchanger is a water line, which allows you to seal the garden completely and makes the system very simple to install. The downside is a slightly higher upfront cost, but when energy efficiency is at the top of your priority list, chiller systems are the most efficient solution. When you consider the savings in electricity the operating cost of a chiller is far lower than that of an air conditioner, so you’ll nearly always make up the additional expense within a few months in the form of a lower electric bill.

Suggested Cooling BTU’s Before Adding Equipment Room square footage

Recommended A/C BTUU

2.32 sq m

2,500

4.65 sq m

3,100

9.29 sq m

4,200

13.94 sq m

5,300

18.58 sq m

6,500

23.23 sq m

7,500

27.87 sq m

8,700

34.84 sq m

10,400

37.16 sq m

11,000

46.45 sq m

13,100

55.74 sq m

15,400

83.61 sq m

22,000

Assumptions for this chart are as follows: • • • • • • •

2.44-m ceilings sealed environment adequate insulation highest ambient temp 37.78ºC or lower outoor condensers CO2 generator not running excessively**

Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

57


Start Your Plants’ Day

Right: Organic and

by Grubbycup

Chemical Nutrients A plant needs elemental nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for healthy growth, but where it gets these nutrients presents growers with a whole plateful of choices...

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Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are elements. As such, there is no difference between those elements from an organic nutrient and from a chemical nutrient. Elemental N, for example, is the exact same regardless of the source. For this article, let’s keep looking at N—the most important of the above elements. Unfortunately, plants can’t absorb pure elemental N directly and there isn’t a way to feed plants a pile of single N atoms. There is plenty of nitrogen gas (N2) in air, but plants can’t split the two atoms apart. What garden plants most often use as their source of N is nitrate (NO3), which is an N atom connected with three oxygen (O) atoms, because this compound is easy for plants to separate. Woody plants like trees can also use ammonium (NH4) as a source of N. Animal waste and plant material that has fallen to the ground are two sources of N that occur naturally in untended wilderness. To emulate this, manufactured organic nutrients tend to be made from naturally occurring materials with minimal processing. One advantage to this is that the materials (i.e. leaves, lawn clippings, livestock manure, etc.) can often be collected cheaply and they require little processing before use—often just maturing or composting. Compost (N-P-K value of 3-1-2) is very similar to what happens in nature when leaves and assorted other plant material winds up on the ground when nobody is around to rake it up. Blood meal (12-0-0) and alfalfa meal (2-1-2) are two other organic fertilizers that are based on things found to supply natural setting plants with

nutrition. As these things decompose (or compost), bacteria and fungi convert them into ammonia (NH3) and NH4. Another organic source of NH3 is the waste products of animals, which contain N in the form of urea [CO(NH2)2]. The urea is converted to NH3 by bacteria using the enzyme ureasec.

I like to compare organic nutrients to eating oatmeal for breakfast, as they tend to be bulky and release their nutrients over a long period of time.” Regardless of the source, if the NH3 is exposed to acidic conditions (pH less than 7) it picks up another hydrogen (H) atom and converts to NH4. This is partly why pH can have an effect on plant growth; if the pH is too high, this conversion is inhibited. Beneficial bacteria then convert the NH4 to NO3, which can then be used by the garden plants.

I like to compare organic nutrients to eating oatmeal for breakfast, as they tend to be bulky and release their nutrients over a long period of time. Some forms of organic fertilizers can continue to release nutrients for more than one season, improving the general long-term health of the soil. Also, with the exception of high-ammonia “hot” manures, organic nutrients are less prone to overfeeding; compost, worm casting and fish excrement can be used in almost unlimited quantities without causing nute burn, which is wrinkledpaper-like damage on the leaves of the plant from using too much fertilizer. However, since organic nutrients tend to be less processed, they can to be more prone to clogging hydroponic systems that rely on sprayers and pumps. The N-P-K values for organic nutrients are also usually lower than for chemical-based solutions because the percentage of nutrient to total mass

Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

59


start your plants’ day right

tends to be lower. And since they are closer to a natural state, the N-P-K values for organic products tend to be less exact than with chemicalbased fertilizers, which can be made to exact recipes. However, there is more than one way to make NH3. It can be manufactured chemically from nitrogen gas by applying heat, pressure and an iron catalyst. Ammonium sulfate [(NH4)2SO4] and ammonium nitrate [(NH4)(NO3)] are other manufactured forms of N. All of these chemical nutrients allow some (or all) of the steps needed to create NO3 to be skipped because they start the N further along the path and closer to the finished NO3. However, they also do not last as long as organic compounds before giving up the N it contains. Chemical nutrients are more like having an energy drink for breakfast. They are shortcuts to the process and release their nutrients quickly, then need a top up to avoid a crash.

However, chemical nutrients can allow for a greater level of control as to how much and when the N becomes available to the plants since they are shortcuts to the natural process. This can allow for a higher nutrient level and performance than is possible with organic nutrients. With this level of control comes responsibility, however, as introducing an overabundance becomes a much more likely temptation—one which can result in nute burn or overloading and damaging natural systems with the runoff. For example, adding a chemical nitrate allows for the entire nitrate-creation process to be skipped and an immediate supply of N to the plants, but—because chemical nitrates are water soluble— what isn’t taken up by the plant will quickly wash downstream (unless recirculated). Overdosing plants with chemicals can also imbalance a natural system to the point that it becomes inhospitable to beneficial bacteria and fungi. Depending on the exact chemical used, there might also be residue built up in the system over time. This is where the practice of watering heavily without nutrients for a time (flushing), which helps wash away any leftover chemical buildup, comes from.

Chemical nutrients are more like having an energy drink for breakfast. They are shortcuts to the process and release their nutrients quickly, then need a top up to avoid a crash. “ 60

Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

So, the differences between chemical and organic nutrition are not as absolute as they are often portrayed. They both use the same process to supply the same elements to the plants and they are both tools that can be used successfully when used correctly. The primary differences are in how many shortcuts are taken and what remains afterwards. Although purists on both sides might strongly disagree, I believe there is little reason not to make use of the benefits of both in moderation. Plants awaiting organic nutrients to become available might benefit from a little chemical boost to tide them over, and long-lasting organic materials can help create a buffer for fast-acting chemical nutrient gardens. After all, sometimes a big hearty high fibre breakfast is what is what a person needs to start the day, and sometimes all one needs is a strong cup of coffee. As always, understanding why you are adding something to your garden, and how it works, goes a long way toward picking the one that’s right for you.


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DO YOU KNOW?

1.

Carbohydrates encourage the growth of bacteria and fungi. If you do not incorporate beneficial bacteria and fungi into your garden, these carbohydrates might join up with bad bacteria and rot.

A tomato plant with a balanced growth habit tends to have a stem thickness of approximately 8 mm in diameter at 15 cm below the growing point. A much larger diameter indicates the plant is heading in a vegetative direction, and a much thinner stem means the plant is going generative.

3.

2.

Overly vegetative plants also don’t have many developing flowers or fruit, as they are sending most of the assimilate produced via photosynthesis into further leaf growth.

Lumens are the units of measure for luminous flux. One lumen represents the luminous flux of light produced by a light source that emits one candela of luminous intensity over a solid angle of one steradian.

6. 8.

4.

Although the Kelvin colour temperature scale is used to represent colour output, it does not define a specific wavelength; therefore, it is not interchangeable or convertible with nanometres.

9.

Red light is commonly used in a fruiting or blooming room as it enhances ripening, while blue light is used specifically for vigorous vegetative growth.

7.

5.

Most A/C systems are intended to run only in summertime when the weather is warm, so you’ll need to verify that your choice can be used without damage to its components when outdoor temperatures are below freezing.

When ammonia is exposed to acidic conditions, it picks up another hydrogen atom and converts to ammonium. Beneficial bacteria then convert the ammonium to nitrate, which can then be used by the garden plants. However, if soil’s pH is too high, the ammonia to ammonium conversion is inhibited.

Garden plants most often attain nitrogen from nitrate because this compound is easy for plants to separate. Woody plants like trees can also use ammonium as a source.

11.

10.

Gnats, which are from the same family as fruit flies, are commonly found in houseplants and are also attracted to ripe fruit and vegetables in your kitchen.

Generally speaking, 1 ton of cooling capacity is equal to 12,000 BTUs.

12. 62

Enriching your growroom to 1,200 to 1,500 ppm of CO2 can accelerate plant growth as much as two to three times and increase crop yields by 20 to 30%.

Maximum Yield Canada  |  May/June 2013

13.

Lower temperatures will reduce absorption of water/ions by the roots while increased temperatures will have the opposite effect.


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YOU TELL US

The Botanicare crew; (L-r) Victor, Kailey, Amanda, Alex, Aaron, Renee, Doug, Danny, Scott and Adam

Maximum Yield recently spoke with Botanicare’s communications manager, Aaron Milldrum, about the company’s origins and its expansion into Canada, the importance of sharing education and how to set up a great growroom. Tell us a little about how Botanicare started. Seventeen years ago, the idea of Botanicare was developed by a small business owner in the back of an Arizona hydroponics store. In 1996, we began selling our first product, Pure Blend Original Organic Compost solution … Over years, we have expanded our line to include hydroponic systems, base nutrients, supplements and grow mediums. This expansion and growth would not have been possible had we not stayed true to our values and company philosophy.

What are Botanicare’s philosophy and values? As a company, we promote a culture of productivity and creativity, which encourages forward-thinking ideas that

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

lead to innovative results and products. We also believe in maintaining close contact with retailers and consumers of our products, which has allowed us to better understand the needs of the industry ... Botanicare continues to be a leader in the North American hydroponic industry, and we are committed to our core values that emphasize relationships, innovation, integrity and environmental and social responsibility.

How did your company come to distribute in Canada? The Canadian market was booming during our first few years in business ... so, it was only a matter of time before our founder travelled north to explore the market. He travelled extensively and spoke with many store owners, which generated interest in Pure Blend® Original and the Power Series nutrient line. Although Botanicare explored


a number of distributors during our initial entry into the Canadian market, we eventually partnered with Quality Wholesale as our key distributor. They have continued to manage and promote the Botanicare line in Canada for more than half a decade.

If I was a beginner looking to set up a growroom, which layout and products would you suggest for me?

What is your most popular Aaron Milldrum, communications manager. selling product in Canada today and why do you think that is? Also, do you have With the high concentration of indoor any products that are particularly gardening expertise in the Canadian useful in the Canadian market? market, I think Pure Blend Tea will Pure Blend Original has always been our most popular product in the Canadian market. Once people saw the quality and flavours growers were harvesting when using Pure Blend Original, it became more popular than we could have imagined in a very short time. Popular recipes that include Pure Blend Tea were handed down from one grower to the next when they saw results they wanted to duplicate. This year, we are excited to release a new and improved formula of Pure Blend Original. When creating the new Pure Blend Tea formula, we were able to combine the key elements of both Pure Blend Original Grow and Bloom into one highly effective formula without sacrificing quality. In fact, we were able to add higher levels of ultra-soluble humic and fulvic acids that make it even more effective.

quickly replace Pure Blend Original as one of our strongest products. Understandably, expert gardeners will settle for nothing but the highest-quality fruits and flowers in such a competitive market, and Pure Blend Tea delivers these results.

You offer a lot of information on your website; why do you think providing education to your customers is important? Hydroponic gardening is often a challenging hobby or profession, especially when deciding where to start. We believe providing our customers a strong foundation to grow is critical to their success and that of the industry. These tools help inspire and empower growers with the information they need to have a healthy and lucrative harvest.

The first thing I always tell people is to set up a growroom that is manageable in both size and required resources. Growers often make the mistake of taking on more garden than they have the resources for. A fully optimized 2,000-W set-up can outperform a 4,000-W garden that is constantly battling temperature fluctuations, humidity issues and poor air circulation. For the new gardener (and even the experienced) I always recommend a run-to-waste coco-based system, using Botanicare Low Tide Trays. Coco coir is an ideal grow media because it is ecologically sustainable, easy to work with and increases growth rates. Although many people attempt to build their own drain trays using a variety of materials, the time saved using a plastic tray with an optimized drainage pattern has many advantages. The drainage grid helps remove excess water quickly, which combats humidity and decreases the chance of algae, mould and other pathogens. Grow trays are also easy to clean, reconfigure and move from one growroom to the next.

How important do you think sustainability is to the indoor gardening industry as a whole? How do you incorporate environmental practices into your company? Botanicare integrates sustainable and environmentally responsible measures into all facets of its business … [One of the ways] we stay environmentally responsible is by only selling cocobased products. We are proud to offer CocoGro plugs, a new cloning plug that is completely peat free! Why? Peat harvesting is not sustainable. The microbial life contained in peat bogs is complex and stores mass amounts of carbon dioxide that would otherwise be released into the atmosphere.

Where the magic happens. Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

65


talking shop

AT A GLANCE Company:

Quick Grow Indoor Garden Centre

Owner:

Mark Sutherland

Location:

1-1204 Edmonton Trail NE Calgary, Alberta T2E 3K5

Phone:

1-403-276-5156

Web: quickgrow.com E-mail:

info@quickgrow.com

Motto:

“Keep Them Happy, Keep Them Coming Back”

66

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

Celebrating

20 Years!

From left to right, Bert, Vivian, Douglas, Lance, James and Andy.

Before starting the Quick Grow Indoor Garden Centre, owner Mark Sutherland and his business partner at the time, Barry Stonehouse, tried out a couple of various business ventures in other industries. However, they found that nothing had the same staying power as Quick Grow did. When Quick Grow opened in 1993 in Calgary, Alberta, interest in the hydroponics industry was just starting to simmer, but Quick Grow’s presence helped deliver much-needed goods and education to city dwellers, bringing the area’s interest in hydroponics to a full boil. “We saw a demand in the city for products and information that people couldn’t get to very well,” Mark shares. Quick Grow began in a small warehouse bay, and there were only two people involved in the beginning. It fell on just those two individuals to do everything, from the banking and accounting, to the sales, ordering and stocking store shelves. But it wasn’t the multitasking that was the biggest challenge; rather, in the beginning, the new business’s biggest struggle was financial, followed by gaining a reputation to get a solid customer base. “We learned a lot about getting our name out there by dealing with the customers closely, and offering

services no one else had,” says Mark. “When we first started, other than a few customers we knew, no one knew we were here. Hydroponics was too new at the time and we had to do a lot of work to get the word out and introduce people to hydroponics and get people on board.” To overcome these initial challenges, Mark says that for Quick Grow, it was not only good service that retained customers, but providing the best quality at the best prices. “We began offering services like repairs, and custom building timers and environmental controllers that suited not just everybody, but each specific customer. We knew that staying on top of new things coming out, as well as trying to design our own products and make things better, would lead to happy customers,” he adds. The store’s motto, “Keep Them Happy, Keep Them Coming Back,” was born from that idea. Another one of the biggest learning curves in the early days was fine-tuning their management processes, and understanding how not to just sell items, but to repair a customer’s existing gear. It was also important to employ staff with a knowledge of all kinds of fertilizers and pest controls, Mark explains in terms of their early years.


“Our main objective is to give the customers what they need, not just what they think they need..” Their resilience to these struggles in the beginning led to a lot of success and it wasn’t long after they opened until Quick Grow was ready for more retail space. “We moved to a storefront from the warehouse bay to a location more central to the city. It was small, but when the business moved out next door, we hacked down the wall and expanded into that bay. We also have a warehouse location for storing our stock. The store still has some size issues due to the various items of inventory we stock but in the end, it’s location, location, location, that matters for us,” explains Mark. Quick Grow is mostly known for its three-part house brand fertilizers­— Quick Grow, Quick Mix and Quick Bloom (also known as Quick 1-2-3)—that are shipped all over North America and are even sold in different retail stores. The store has grown to sell a lot more than just fertilizers, however. “One of the most surprising ways we are different is the selection of inventory we have. We try to stock everything people would think to need. We try and keep a wide range of different things as well as all kinds of hardware, ducting and plumbing for example, making our store more like a one-stop shop,” said Mark. Solving warranty issues or problems with malfunctions is

Quick Grow shelves are fully stocked.

Quick Grow owner, Mark Sutherland.

also something Quick Grow staff are heavily involved in. “People are always surprised when they don’t have to fight us to resolve their issues,” Mark adds. The combination of having a good selection and paying the right amount of attention to the customers have proved to be a winning combination for the folks at Quick Grow. “Our biggest strength, though everyone probably says it, is customer service,” Mark shares. “We always want the customer happy, whether it’s by providing a good deal, great advice, step-bystep instructions, phone calls late at night, staying open later if a customer is running late or customizing set-ups suited to individual needs. We try to be on a personal level with the customers. We are mostly proud of the fact that we have stayed in business for so long. We have been in business for 20 years and have watched numerous stores close down. Being a small business in today’s world is a struggle in its own. We have been through lots through the years and still maintain sales of more than two million dollars annually.” Mark admits that perhaps the biggest lesson he’s learned in 20 years of business is that it’s important to stay on top of a constantly changing industry. “When we hear about something new, we jump in with two feet. We are big on testing and researching so that we

can give customers actual feedback on what’s just hype and what’s good. The thing with indoor gardening is that its always a learning curve. When you think you know everything, there’s always something new happening. Trying to be above and on top of things does wonders for helping keep the doors open,” Mark says. “Our main objective is to give the customers what they need, not just what they think they need. We are known for saving customers money by talking them out of sales. Even though we don’t make a bigger sale, the customer is always happy and coming back.” Nowadays, there are eight employees taking care of customers at Quick Grow. “The employees here aren’t just workers, we are all like a family,” shares Mark, adding that there is even a second generation starting up. “We have stuck behind and supported employees through various hardships of their lives, and have tried to do our best in helping them out with any problems that come up. Everyday here is a lot of fun for customers, as well as us. We are constantly joking around and there’s rarely a day where everybody is not smiling or laughing—customers included.” To learn more about the Quick Grow Indoor Garden Centre, stop by for a visit at 1-1204 Edmonton Trail NE in Calgary, or call 1-877-426-4769. They look forward to assisting you!

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

67


MAX-mART

Unit 6 12342 82A Avenue

❘ Surrey, B.C. ❘ 604.599.1778

www.coastpetandplant.com

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PROMOTE YOUR RETAIL SHOP HERE AS LOW AS $75/MO CALL 1.250.729.2677


AD


MAXIMUM YIELD distributors ALBERTA Double AA Garden Supplies Ltd. Bay 9 2820 Centre Avenue Calgary, AB T2A 7P5 403-273-9188 -------------------------------------------------------

IncrediGrow Garden Centre 103-7500 MacLeod Trail SE Calgary, AB T2H 0L9 403-255-0740 ------------------------------------------------------Quick Grow 1-1204 Edmonton Trail Road NE Calgary, AB T2E 3K5 877-426-4769 Smart Grow 2422 - 23 Avenue, NE Calgary, AB T2E 8J4 403-236-9999 Twins Greenhouse 13 - 2235 30th Avenue, NE Calgary, AB T2C 7C7 403-273-2881 All Season’s Garden Centre 10027 81 Ave., Edmonton, AB T6E 1W7 780-448-2385 -------------------------------------------------------

Hydro-Lite 12249 Fort Road Edmonton, AB T5B 4H7 780-477-7860 ------------------------------------------------------Niloc Wholesale Inc. Box 82008 Yellowbird RPO Edmonton, AB T6J 7E6 780-885-4769

BRITISH COLUMBIA Interior Gardener’s Supply 221 - 1 McDermid Road, Box 1779 100 Mile House, BC V0K 2E0 250-395-3399 Hygro Gardening Supplies Inc. 1791 Tamarac Street Campbell River, BC V9W 5Y7 250-286-0424 ------------------------------------------------------

Canadian Garden Supply 1730 Highway 3 Castlegar, BC V1N 4W1 250-304-2911 ------------------------------------------------------Sun Beam Central 3444 River Road Chemainus, BC V0R 1K4 250-246-1379 -------------------------------------------------------

Valley Indoor Geenhouse Supplies 103 - 44195 Yale Road West Chilliwack, BC V2R 4H2 877-702-1169 ------------------------------------------------------Sundogz Garden Supply 1824 Alberni Hwy. Coombs, BC V0R 1M0 250-954-2046 Art Knapp 2855 Wentworth Road Courtenay, BC V9N 6B7 250-334-3024

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Just-N-Tyme Greenhouse and Hydroponics Supply 1094 McKenzie Avenue Courteney, BC V9N 3C5 250-703-0476 Pacific NW Garden Supply 1139B Industrial Road 3 Cranbrook, BC V1C 5E3 250-489-4761

Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each province.

Triple Tree Nurseryland 20503 Lougheed Highway Maple Ridge, BC V2X 2P9 604-465-9313 Nutty Zone 5 & 6 - 33201 London Avenue Mission, BC V2V 4P9 604-814-2223

Cowichan Hydroponic Supplies 4 - 2955 Jacob Road Duncan, BC V9L 6W4 250-746-0244

Long Lake Nursery Hydroponic Supply 4900 Island Highway, North Nanaimo, BC 250-758-5012

Duncan Plants & Ponics 6512 Bell McKinnon Road Duncan, BC V9L 6C1 250-746-5591

Progressive Growth 41 - 1925 Bowen Road Nanaimo, BC V9S 1H1 800-405-4769

Better Than Nature Enderby 1900 George Street Enderby, BC 250-838-5502

Word of Mouth Hydroponics Inc. 1-1611 Bowen Rd., Nanaimo, BC V9S 1G5 250.591.1180

Sunshine Gardens Greenhouse Superstore 5 - 1744 Kelly Douglas Road Kamloops, BC V2C 5S4 877-372-2270 Room 2 Grow 901 Laval Crescent Kamloops, BC V2C 5P4 250-372-3663 -------------------------------------------------------

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Tridon Hydroponics 12 - 1708 Bowen Road Nanaimo, BC V9S 1G9 250-755-1900 ------------------------------------------------------Vancouver Island Garden Supply Ltd. 4770 Wellington Rd Nanaimo, BC V9T 2H3 250-585-8881

West Coast Hydroponic Garden Shop 113 - 805 Notre Dame Kamloops, BC V2C 5N8 250-851-2992 ------------------------------------------------------Aqua Gro Hydroponics Supplies Suite 101 2689 Kyle Rd. Kelowna, BC V1Z 2M9 250-769-7745 Better Than Nature Kelowna 725B Evans Court Kelowna, BC V1X 6G4 250-868-8978 Oasis 12 - 1771 Cooper Road Kelowna, BC V1Y 7T1 250-763-4769 Pacific NW Garden Supply Unit C1 - 1810 Kyle Court Kelowna, BC V1Z 3Z4 250-769-4791 BC Hydroponics 3 - 20092-93A Avenue Langley, BC V1M 3Y4 604-888-5716 Green Earth Garden Supplies Unit 5, 19300, Langley Bypass Langley, BC V3S 6K2 604-532-7106 GreenStar Plant Products Inc. 9430 198 Street, Langley, BC V1M 3C8 604-882-7699 Pacific Western Garden 5785 203A Street. Langley B.C V3A 1W7 604-510-4839; 778-898-5888 Excel Air Systems 200 - 20170 Stewart Crescent Maple Ridge, BC V2X 0T4 604-728-0757

Pacific NW Garden Supply Unit 14- 104 Silica Street Nelson, BC V1L 4M1 250-354-4767 Buckerfields 587 Alberni Highway Parksville, BC V9P 1J9 250-248-3243 Better Than Nature Penticton 101 - 78 Industrial Avenue, West Penticton, BC V2A 6M2 250-770-8978 -------------------------------------------------------

Aurora Lighting 750 3rd Avenue Prince George, BC V2L 3C5 250-564-9888 ------------------------------------------------------Backwoods Hydroponic & Garden 10590 Carlson Road Prince George, BC V2K 5E5 250-963-9541 PG2 1798 Nicholson Street Prince George, BC V2N 1V6 250-612-4769; 1-888-817-4769 Skytek Indoor Solutions 833 4th Avenue Prince George, BC V2L 3H5 800-975-9835 Spruce Capital Feeds 1694 Quinn Street Prince George, BC V2N 1X3 250-564-6010 Omega Garden Inc. 1695 Peligren Place Qualicum Beach, BC V9K 2S3 250-752-1301; 888 976 6342

Pacific NW Garden Supply 109 - 20110 Lougheed Highway Maple Ridge, BC V2X 2P7

Garden Effects 200-2288 #5 Road Richmond, BC V6X 2T1 604-214-6620

Planting Plus Greenhouse Supplies and Hardware 22394 Dewdney Truck Road Maple Ridge, BC V2X 3J2 604-466-5949

Natural Choice Garden Centre, The 5500 48th Avenue, SE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 1X2 250-832-7151

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

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S.A. Ecoline Products Ltd. 5671 Auto Road, SE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 4S1 250-833-4769 ------------------------------------------------------Nico’s Nurseryland 830 - 28th Street, NE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 2S7 250-804-2004 Mylo’s 3837 Squilax Anglemont Hwy Scotch Creek, BC V0E 1M0 250-955-0525 Green & Clean Energy Co. Ltd. 2875 Cudlip Road Shawnigan Lake, BC V0R 2W0 250-732-7224 Happy Acres Greens & Backroad Hydroponics Equipment 2058 Cambie-Solsqua Road Sicamous, BC V0E 2V0 250-836-3878 Garibaldi Nursery 38917 Progress Way, Squamish Industrial Park Squamish, BC V0N 3G0 604-892-3892 ------------------------------------------------------Coast Pet & Supplies Unit 6 12342 83A Ave. Surrey, BC 604-599-1778 ------------------------------------------------------Coastal Growers Supply 103 - 12824 Anvil Way Surrey, BC V3W 8E7 604-599-1778 ------------------------------------------------------Fat Eddies Systems Inc. 108 - 18760 96th Avenue Surrey, BC V4N 3P9 604-888-2499 ------------------------------------------------------Garden King Supplies 7533 135 Street, Unit 109 Surrey, BC V3W OM8 604-598-1912 Pacific NW Garden Supply 15374-103A Avenue Surrey, BC V3R 9V8 604-588-4769; 800-443-4769 Warehouse Garden Supplies & Hydroponic 109 - 8173 128 Street Surrey, BC V3W 4G1 604-543-3177 BN Garden Supply 4493 Boundary Road Vancouver, BC V5R 2N3 604-431-2977 Double AA Garden Supplies Ltd. 2908 Commercial Drive Vancouver, BC V5N 4C9 604-876-8837 Pacific NW Garden Supply 2137 East Hastings Street Vancouver, BC V5L 1V2 604-254-4765 Vancouver Garden Supply 4894 Fraser Street Vancouver, BC V5V 4H5 604-879-8167 Advanced Garden Supplies 7979 Aspen Road Vernon, BC V1B 3M9 250-545-9545 AJs Pets & Things 3219 - 31st Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 2H2 250-549-3222 Better Than Nature Vernon 506 25th Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 1P4 250-260-4466 Northern Lights Greenspace 3 - 2706 45th Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 3N4 250-558-4757 Indoor Jungle 2624 Quadra Street Victoria, BC V8T 4E4 250-388-5611

Mr. Fertilizer 9 Burnside Road, West Victoria, BC V9A 1B2 250-381-4644 Progressive Growth 111 - 1790 Island Highway Victoria, BC V9B 1H5 250-391-9519 Sunwest Garden Supply 2035 Unit B Louie Drive Westbank, BC V4T 1Y2 50-768-1636 -------------------------------------------------------

Good Guys Gardening Center 250 McKenzie Avenue, South Williams Lake, BC V2G 1C6 250-392-2069 ----------------------------------------------------Trees Company Nursery & Garden Supplies G9 C17 RR1, 7030 Powell Road Winlaw, BC V0G 2J0 250-226-7334

MANITOBA Better Than Nature Winnipeg 14 Gertrude Winnipeg MB R3L OM6 204-453-3032 Gro Pro International Hydroponics 101-904 Porthee Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3G 0P4 204-956-1389 Kleen Gro Hydroponics 218 Osbourne Street South Winnipeg, MB R3L 1Z3 204-475-7096 My Two Sons 2 - 2055 McPhillips Street Winnipeg, MB R2Y 3C6 204-339-3489 Nature’s Nutrition 819 Portage Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3J 0G4 204-889-2979 Northern Lights Hydroponics 129 Regent Avenue East Winnipeg, MB R2C 0C2 204-415-5106 Ready Set Grow! 375 Henderson Highway Winnipeg, MB R3C 2H2 204-668-GROW

NEW BRUNSWICK Canadian Green Products 811 Central St. Centerville, NB E7K 2B9 506-276-3555 -------------------------------------------------------

Dieppe Hydroponics 988 Champlain St. Door #3 Dieppe, NB E18 1P8 506-384-4769 ------------------------------Craft N’ Grow 60 Micmac Road Eel Ground, NB E1V 4B1 506-624-9317 Ultimate Hydroponics Box 1191, Hampton, NB E5N 8H2 506-639-5948 Scott’s Nursery Ltd. 2192 Route 102 Highway Lincoln, NB E3B 8N1 506-458-9208 Atlantic Hydroponics & Greenhouses Inc. 42 Brandon Street Moncton, NB E1C 7E8 506-858-0158


Jardins Notik Gardens 798 Gray Road St-Charles, NB E4W 4N9 506-876-9100 Century Gardening 20 Bayside Drive St. John, NB E2J 1A2 506-657-9982

NOVA SCOTIA Den Haan’s Garden World 12688 Highway 1, Brickton Annapolis County, NS B0S 1M0 902-825-4722 Woodland Farm Nursery 3544 Highway 1, Annapolis Royal, NS B0S 1A0 902-532-7617 -------------------------------------------------------

S&L Worx Hydroponics 135 Main Street, Unit 14 Dartmouth, NS B2X 1R6 902-434-GROW (4769) ------------------------------------------------------Sweetleaf Smoke Shop and Hydroponics 3132 Isleville Street Halifax, NS B3K 3Y2 902-454-6646 Plant Manager Gardening 12 Industrial Drive, Richmond County Industrial Park Lennox Passage, Cape Breton, NS  B0E 1V0 902-345-2112 Steve’s Hydroponic Headquarters 131 Sackville Drive Lower Sackville, NS B4C 2R3 902-865-7764 Greenfield Grow & Brew 69 Wilson Mountain Road Murray Siding, NS B6L 4N7 902-897-6568 -------------------------------------------------------

Woodin Nickel Hydroponics 3393 Central West, Highway 4 Pictou County, NS BOK 1H0 902-695-7640 -------------------------------------------------------

ONTARIO Canadian Hydrogardens Ltd. 1330 Sandhill Drive Ancaster, ON L9G 4V5 905 648 1801 Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 521 Dunlop Street West Barrie, ON L4N 9W4 705-721-8715 Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 5386 Greenlane Road Beamsville, ON L0R 1B3 905-563-6121 BMA Hydroponics 404A Maitland Drive, Unit 2 Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5 613-967-9888 Home Hydroponics 289 Rutherford Road, South 22 Brampton, ON L6W 3R9 905-874-GROW Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 79 Woolwich Street South Breslau, ON N0B 1M0 519-648-2374 J & C Hydroponics 343 Elgin Street, Unit A Cambridge, ON M1R 7H9 519-622-9969 Pro Grow Indoor Garden Supplies 1710 Bishop St. Unit 2 Cambridge, ON N1T 1T2 519-624-7692 Hydrogarden 1122 Paul Street Cornwall, ON K6H 6H5 613-360-6996

Agrogreen Canada Inc. 1938 Hwy #20, RR#1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 866-650-1136 Diatomite Canada 1938 Hwy #20, RR#1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 866-650-1136 Northern Lights Green Supply 1938 Highway 20 (at 406), RR 1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 905-892-3743 Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 1677 Cyrville Road, Meadowbrooke Plaza Gloucester, ON K1B 3L7 613-842-8999 -------------------------------------------------------

Nature’s Elements Box 119 500 Mill Street Neustadt, ON N0G 2M0 519-799-5323 -------------------------------------------------------

Yield of Dreams Hydroponics 559 Steven Court 12 Newmarket, ON L3Y 6Z3 877-778-7960 -------------------------------------------------------

Hydrotech 2436 Kingston Road Toronto, ON M1N 1V2 416-267-4769 Jungle Hydroponics 2215 Gerrard Street East Toronto, ON M4E 2C8 416-699-0861 Toronto Hemp Company 665 Yonge Street Toronto, ON M4Y 1Z9 416-920-1980 Truly Local 851 Queen Street, West Toronto, ON M5R 2K2 647-855-5932 -------------------------------

Happy Hydroponics 68 Princess Street Hamilton, ON L8L 3K9 905-545-8434 -----------------------------------------------------Garden Depot 605 Justus Drive Kingston, ON K7M 4H5 613-384-8882 Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 1659 Victoria Street, North, Unit 6 Kitchener, ON N2B 3E6 888-670-0611 -------------------------------------------------------

AKA The Indoor Gardener 207 Exeter Road, Unit D London, ON N6L 1A4 519-652-4224 ------------------------------------------------------Best of Hydroponics 360 Richmond Street London, ON N6A 3C3 519-858-1533 Ontario Growers Supply 1540 Fanshawe Park Road West London, ON N6H 5L8 519-641-3992 Vantage Hydroponics 1 Adelaide Street North London, ON N6B 3P8 519-451-4769 Markham Hydroponics 95 Royal Crest Court 18 Markham, ON L3R 9X5 905-305-0698 Nature’s Garden Supplies 24-340 Don Park Road Markham, ON L3R 1C5 905-470-7887 All Seasons 1000 Dundas Street East Mississauga, ON L4Y 2B8 905-848-2619

Green Kingdom Hemp 1103 Cassells Street North Bay, ON P1B 4B3 705-494-7169

LV Garden Supply 415 Oakdale Road Unit 379 North York, ON M3N 1W7 416-744-7762

Grower’s Choice Hydroponics 1621 McEwen Drive 14 Whitby, ON L1N 9A5 905-725-GROW

All Grow Hydroponic 391 Marwood Drive, Unit 14 Oshawa, ON 866-606-4723

Northern Lights Hydroponics 2690 Oulette Ave Windsor, ON N8X 1L7 519-254-4015

Ontario Hydroponics 103015 Grey Road 18 Owen Sound, ON N4K 5N6 519-372-1144 Envirotex PO Box 21069 Paris, ON N3L 4A5 519-442-1237 Peterborough Hydroponic Center 347 Pido Road, Unit 32 Peterborough, ON K9J 6X7 705-745-6868 Sweet Hydroponic Gardens 776 Bruce Street Renfrew, ON K7V 3Z8 613-433-9600 Bluewater Hydroponics 1173 Michener Road, Unit 12 Sarnia, ON N7S 5G5 519-337-7475 Indoor Gardens Canada 2952 Thompson Road Smithville, ON L0R 2A0 905-957-6969

Green Thumb Hydroponics 3075 Ridgeway Drive, 25 Mississauga, ON L5L 5M6

Green And Clean 761 Barrydowne Road Sudbury, ON P3A 3T6 800-246-5503

Iponic Zone 151 Brunel Rd. Mississauga ON L4Z 2H6 905-502-7211

Northern Hydroponics 236 Simpson Street Thunder Bay, ON P7C 3H4 807-623-3666

Hydro Culture Emporium Inc. 1315 Richmond Rd. Unit #7 Ottawa, ON K2B 8J7 613-715-9472

Greenthumbs Garden Supply 338 Kingston Road Toronto, ON M4L 1T7 647-345-GROW (4769) -------------------------------------------------------

Harvest Time Hydroponics 5918 Main St., Niagra Falls, ON L2G 5Z8 289-296-7754 -------------------------------------------------------

Second Nature Hydroponics 4 - 2133 Royal Windsor Drive Mississauga, ON L5J 1K5 905-403-4769 -------------------------------------------------------

Indoor Farmer 10 Wyman Road, Unit 4, Waterloo, ON N2V 1K7. 519-886-9200 -------------------------------

Supply For You 3615 Weston Road, Unit 6 North York, ON M9L 1V8 416-741-8062

Paradise Gardens Hydroponics 2158 Chiefswood Road Oshweken, ON N0A 1M0 519-445-2275

grow it all hydroponics for everyone

Grow It All Hydroponics Inc. 165 Geary Avenue, Unit 3B Toronto, ON M6H 2B8 416-588-9595 ------------------------------------------------------Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 26 Meteor Drive Toronto, ON M9W 1A4 416-242-4769

Hydrosphere 2000 2400 rue Canadian, Suite 104 Drummondville, QC J2C 7W3 819-478-9791 -----------------------------------------------------Les Serres Binette Inc 2568 Boul. Mercurre Drummondville, QC J2A 1H2 819-478-7195 Pablo Jardinage Drummondville 2080 Joseph St-Cyr Drummondville, QC J2C 8V6 819-475-2525 Les Entreprises Fernand Pigeon Inc. 174 Beaudoin Nord Durham-Sud, QC J0H 2C0 819-858-2777

------------------------------Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 4373 Steeles Avenue West North York, ON M3N 1V7 416-663-2999

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Urban GreenHouse Hydroponics & Aquaculture 7635 Tecumseh Road E. Windsor, ON N8T 3H1 519-944-8444 -------------------------------------------------------

Ozone Environmental Technologies 361 Rowntree Dairy Road Unit 4 Woodridge, ON L4L 8H1 905-264-6618 -------------------------------------------------------

QUEBEC Un Monde Sans Terre 565 Beausejour Alma, QC G8B 5V3 418-480-3274 Hydro-Tonyque 761 Avenue Gilles Villeneuve Berthierville, QC J0K 1AO 450-836-8088 -------------------------------------------------------

Plant-O-Maxx 3169 Blais, Boisbriand, QC, J7H 1H2 514-968-7799 ------------------------------------------------------Gerard Bourbeau & Fils Inc. 8285, 1 re Avenue Charlesbourg, QC G1G 5E6 418-623-5401 Les Grands Jardins Lavel 2900, Boul. Cure-Lavelle Chomedey, Laval, QC H7P 5S8 250-729-2687 Simplement Vert 8B Georges-Gagne Delson, QC J5B 2E1 514-913-8378 (VERT)

Hydromax Gatineau 3-1695 Atmec (porte 6) Gatineau, QC J8P 7G7 819-663-7470 Naturexpert Inc. 828 Chemin du Sixième Rang Gatineau QC J8R 3A4 Jardinages Gilles Robert Inc. 574 St-Hubert Granby, QC J0H 1Y5 450-375-3441 Méristème Hydroponique 871 Dufferin Granby, QC J2G 9H8 450-991-1514 Jardinage d’intérieur Huntingdon 72 Dalhousie Huntingdon, PQ J0S 1H0, Canada 450-322-6079 Hydroponique Plus Inc. 405 - 18 Avenue Lachine, QC H8S 3R1 514-634-3677 Biofloral 675 Montee, St. Francois Laval, QC H7C 2S8 877-38-HYDRO -------------------------------------------------------

------Brite Lite Hydroponics 940 Bergar, Laval, QC H7L 4Z8 450-669-3803 ------------------------------------------------------Espace Culture Boutique 17 boul. Ste-Rose Est Laval, QC H7V 3K3 450-622-2710 Fernand Corbeil Produits Horticoles - Horticultural Products 17 boul. Ste-Rose Est Laval, QC H7L 3K3 450-622-2710 Hydro Times 1533 Boulevard Cure Labelle Laval, QC H7V 2W4 450-688-4848 Hydromax Laval 295 Boulevard Curé Labelle Laval, QC H7L 2Z9 450-628-8380 -------------------------------------------------------------

Qué-Pousse - Laval 940 Bergar Laval, QC H7L 4Z8 450-667-3809 ------------------------------Point De Vue 880 Chemin St-Féréol Les Cèdres, QC J7T 1N3 450-452-2878 / 1-877-510-2991

Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors Hydro Rive-sud 4721 Boulvard de la rive sud Levis, QC G6W 1H5 418-835-0082

Boutique Echologik 829, cote d’Abraham Quebec, QC G1R 1A4 418-648-8288

Boutique Grunge 364 Rue Sherbrooke Magog, QC J1X 2S1 819-847-4141

Boutique Echologik 790 St - Jean Quebec, QC G1R 1P9 418-648-2828

Hydromax Mont-Laurier 388 Rue Hebert Mont-Laurier, QC J9L 2X2 888-609-4476 Hydroculture Guy Dionne 8473 - 19th Avenue Montreal, QC H1Z 4J2 514-722-9496 Hydro Expert 12752 Industriel Montreal, QC H1A 3V2 514-624-3091 B&S Electrique Inc. 2240 Pitt Street Montreal, QC H4E 4H1 514-931-3817 Distribution De la Plante 5498 Hochelaga Suite 910 Montreal, QC H1N 3L7 514-255-1111 Hydromax Montreal 9300 Lajeunesse Montreal, QC H2M 1S4 514-381-0111 Hydromax St-Henri 3522 Notre-Dame Montréal, QC H4C 1P4 514-481-3939 International Hydroponique 5478 Hochelaga St Montreal, QC H1N 3L7 514-255-2525 Momentum 11289 London Avenue Montreal, QC H1H 4J3 888-327-4595 Pousse Magique Atwater 3522 Notre-Dame, ouest, Montreal, Qc H4C 1P4 514-481-3939 Qué-Pousse - Montreal 2215 Walkley Montreal, QC H4B 2J9 514-489-3803 Summum Bio Teck 2100 Ontario Est Montreal, QC H2K 1V5 866-460-2226 Univert 4 Saisons 2100 Ontario Est Montréal, QC H2K 1V5 514-527-2226 Vinexpert De L’Est 6384 Beaubien est Montreal, QC H1M 3G8 514-354-8020 XXXtractor Inc. 1228 St. Marc Montreal, QC H3H 2E5 514-931-4944 Qué-Pousse - Mont. Tremblant 462 Montée Kavanagh Mont-Tremblant, QC J8E 2P2 819-429-6145

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Maximum Yield Canada | May/June 2013

échologik 798 St Jean Québec, QC G1R 1P9 418-648-2828; 418-648-8288 Hydroculture Guy Dionne 1990 Cyrill-Duquet Local 150 Québec, QC G1N 4K8 418-681-4643 Pousse Magique 515 rue Lanaudiere Repentigny, QC J6A 7N1 450-582-6662 Fred Lamontagne Inc. 356 Chemin du Sommet Est, Rimouski, QC G5L 7B5 418-723-5746 Qué-Pousse - Sherbrooke 4394 Bourque Rt. 112 Rock Forest, QC J1N 1S3 819-563-0353 Hydro Plus 149 avenue Principale A Rouyn Noranda, QC J9X 4E3 819-762-4367 Rap Hydroponique 5700, rue Martineau Local 7 Saint-Hyacinthe, QC J2S 8B1 450-768-5188 Culture Uni Vert 36 rue de Martigny E Saint-Jérôme, QC J7Z 1V4 Comptoir Richelieu Inc. 350, du Collège Sorel-Tracy, QC J3P 6T7 800-363-9466 Ferme Florale Inc. (Botanix) 2190 Blvd. Laurier (route 116) St. Bruno de Montarville, QC J3V 4P6 450-653-6383 Hydrobec 2145 Lavoisier Suite 4 Ste-Foy, QC G1N 4B2 418-687-1119 Chanvre du Nord Inc. 38 DeMartigny est St-Jérome, QC J7Z 1V4 866-565-5305 Hydro Sciences 4800 de la Cote-Vertu Blvd. Saint-Laurent, QC H4S 1J9 514-331-9090 Pablo Jardinage Shawinigan 5023 Boulevard Royal Shawinigan QC J9N 6T8 819-731-9766

Amazonia Hydroponique 394 Boulvard Arthur-sauve St. Eustache, QC J7R 2J5 450-623-2790 P.P.M. Hydroponique 504 Rue du Parc St. Eustache, QC J7R 5B2 450-491-2444 Hydrotek 12300 Rue de l’avenir St. Janvier, QC J7J 2K4 St-Jean Hydroponique 747 rue St-Jacques St-Jean-Sur-Richelieu, QC J3B 2M9 450-346-9633 Hydromax Terrebonne 1674 Chemin Gascon Terrebonne, QC J6X 4H9 450-492-7447 Hydromax Trois-Rivières 6157 rue Corbeil Trois-Rivières Ouest, QC G8Z 4P8 819-372-0500 Pablo Jardinage Intérieur 2 Des Ormeaux Suite 500 Trois-Rivières, QC G8W 1S6 819-693-6000 Rap Hydroponique 326 Rue Vachon Trois-Rivières QC G8T 8Y2 819-376-5959 Hydromax Val-David 895 route 117 nord Val-David, QC J0T 2N0 888-320-0129 Val d’Or Hydroculture 1261 3e Avenue Val d’Or, QC J9P 1V4 Horticulture Piégo 228 Pierre Bertrand Sud Vanier, QC G1M 2C4 418-527-2006 Qué-Pousse - VaudreuilDorion 3666-D, boul. Cité des Jeunes Vaudreuil-Dorion, QC J7V 8P2 450-424-0306 Centre Jardin Denis Brodeur 15 Nord C.P. 658 Waterloo, QC J0E 2N0 Sonador Horticulture Inc. 819-479-2941

SASKATCHEWAN

Sherbrooke Hydroponique 3545 King Est, Sherbrooke, QC J1G 5J4 819-829-9299

Busy Bee Upholstery Box 811, 134 5th Avenue East Gravelbourg, SK S0H 1X0 306-648-3659

Plant-T-Plantes 3439 boulevard Fiset Sorel-Tracy, QC J3P 5J3 450-780-0008

B&B Hydroponics and Indoor Gardening 1404 Cornwall Street Regina, SK S4R 2H7 306-522-4769

Qué-Pousse - St-Constant 6264 Route 132 Ste-Catherine, QC J0L 1E0 450-635-4881

MegaWatt Hydroculture 636 Route 364 Morin Heights, QC J0R 1H0 450-226-2515

Benoit Dupuis Extincteurs Inc. 2503 Victoria Street Ste-Julienne, QC J0K 2T0 450-831-4240

Fleuriste Savard Inc. 1833 boul. Louis-Frechette Nicolet, QC J3T 1M4 819-293-5933

Hydroponique 2000 84 Boul. Curé Labelle Ste-Therese, QC J7E 2X5 450-971-0726

Qué-Pousse - Point-Claire 1860D Sources Blvd Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5B1 514-426-5057

Pépinière Eco-Verdure 965 Boul. Sauvé St-Eustache, QC J7R 4K3 450-472-6474

Waterboy Supply 401 Dewdney Avenue East Regina, SK S4N 4G3 306-757-6242

YUKON, NUNAVUT and NORTHWEST TERRITORIES Porter Creek Indoor Garden Centre 1307 Centennial Street Whitehorse, YT Y1A 3Z1 867-667-2123


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COMING UP NEXT ISSUE

Beating the Burn with Aloe Before heading out for a summertime adventure, it's become second nature to fill a bag with the essentials: bottled water, snacks, floaties for the kids and sun block. However, even the most organized person can get hit with sunburn. Fortunately, there’s a cheap, completely natural salve close at hand—and it's easy to grow!

How Much Water is too Much? Should you be watering your plants once a day? Not necessarily. Different plants and different soils need different watering regimens. The question most often heard, however, is simply, “How much?” A clearer understanding of the issues involved in watering your plants may help answer this for you.

Battle of the Bugs: a Guide to Beneficial Insects There are few things as troubling as discovering an insect infestation in an otherwise flawless garden. Once discovered, a grower must immediately launch a counter-attack to get rid of those harmful bugs. This articles highlights one environmentally friendly weapon in the anti-pest arsenal. PLUS: Hydroponic news, tips and trivia, hot new products, exclusive giveaways and more!

www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield Canada July/August will be available soon for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across the country and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

Stay in the Know with Maximum Yield’s E-News Every month Maximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup 74

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