Australia November-December 2011
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Maximum Yield |  May/June 2011
CONTENTS November/December 2011
FEATURES 16
I Love the Smell of H2O in the Morning by Dr. Lynette Morgan
16
26 32
NPK Deficiencies
36
Decoded: Fertilizer Injector Usage
38
by Des Warnock
Root Pruning 101
26
Fungi Fascination
by Gaby Bronzstein
by Donald Lester
22
DEPARTMENTS
by Guy Sela
4
From the Editor
34
Industry’s Latest
Atmospheric Excellence: If Plants Could Talk
4
Letters to the Editor
42
Talking Shop
6
MaximumYield.com
44
Distributors
8
Simon Says
46
Coming up in Jan/Feb
10
MAX Facts
46
Do You Know?
12
Product Spotlight
by Hans Kersbergen
40
22
The Grower’s Guide to Drying and Preserving Herbs by Matt LeBannister
Maximum Yield | November/December
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FROM THE EDITOR | Jessica Raymond With the holidays nearing, it’s time to stock up on nutrients and equipment to keep your garden growing. No doubt your local hydro shop will have some great deals in store. Check out what’s new by perusing this issue’s New Product Spotlight section and be sure to let your local shop know you saw it first in Maximum Yield. We have put together a great lineup of articles with features on buying and applying mycorrhizal fungi, root pruning advice, hydroponic water quality and treatment, drying and preserving herbs and climate control. Our spotlights on Cyco Flower—makers of the popular Cyco ProKit—and Morley, WA-based retailer Accent Hydroponics round out our summer edition. This issue we’ve also added a new column, Industry’s Latest, which is filled with exciting deals, upcoming events, news and giveaways exclu-
sively available to our AUS and NZ readers. Have fun growing this holiday season. Happy Holidays from everyone here at Maximum Yield! PS. We are excited to announce that digital subscriptions to Maximum Yield Magazine are now available for free in your inbox every month. Simply Jessica Raymond, Editor e-mail editor@maximumyield.com to editor@maximumyield.com subscribe or visit maximumyield.com and click on the subscribe button.
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Homegrown Hydroponics
Thanks to Maximum Yield and its contributors for the helpful information and great articles. I am new to hydroponics and gardening all together and I believe I have found a new passion and lifestyle to enjoy! Over the summer I harvested a variety of tomatoes. I’m looking forward to my jalapenos and anything else I may grow. The goal now is to never have to buy veggies. Thanks again Angel Bueno
Run, Don’t Walk, to Your Nearest Hydroponic Shop
Thank you for such a well thought out and put together magazine. You guys and gals are doing a great job and yours is the only magazine I read from cover to cover each month. When I can get a hold of a hard copy, I keep it for reference. I have been growing hydroponically for 25 years indoors and am thinking about doing some growing outdoors next year in hydro. Thanks again for all your hard work; it sure shows every month when I get to read the next issue. Thanks Bob Albright
A Circular Issue
When a plant becomes root bound does this actually harm the plant? If you transplant a root bound plant into a larger container will bound roots fix themselves? Richard Bergen To help you answer your root bound question, I invite you to check out the following articles on maximumyield.com. We have published many articles on root health in the past couple years that may answer your question: • The Basics of Root Care by Matt LeBannister • Keeping Roots in Tip Top Condition by Dr. Lynette Morgan • Root Pruning 101 by Gabriel Bronsztein ( see page 22) • The Root Whisperer by Dr. J. Benton Jones, Jr.
Angel with his hybrid DWC tomato
Reader Props
You have great looking magazine—sharp bright colours, good quality paper and covers. I look forward to reading every issue cover to cover in my ever expanding quest for more hydroponic/ indoor growing information. I find the articles current and interesting. I find Simon Says great. Overall, much better than other similar magazines. Ron Daily
Australia
-October
September
2011
All of these articles can be searched by author or article under the resources tab or by issue; simply click ‘View All Editions of Maximum Yield’ on the left of the main screen. Good luck with your root problem and thanks for reading.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or e-mail us at: editor@maximumyield.com
Maximum Yield | November/December
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Coming up on the Web Upcoming Events
2012 ‘Grow Like a Pro’ Indoor Gardening Expo Tour The dates are set, the venues are chosen and the 2012 ‘Grow Like a Pro’ Indoor Gardening Expo Tour is coming to four North American cities. You’re invited to attend one, two, three or all four shows. Stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com for details and updates.
W GREOA PR!O
LIKTOUR
Got Questions? Get Answers.
Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. E-mail editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the question form on maximumyield.com
Latest News
Rooftop farms are sprouting up all over the globe and changing how people think of gardening. There’s probably one near you. Check them out on maximumyield.com under Latest News.
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.
contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.
Matt LeBannister developed a
Gabriel Bronsztein is president
Hans Kersbergen is one of the
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
Publication Agreement Number 40739092
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If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.
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and founder of Everest Garden Supply, a wholesale-only distribution company based in Northern California. Involved in the hydroponics industry for over 15 years, Gabriel focuses on market leadership through product innovation and superior customer service. He is a member of the Progressive GardeningTrade Association and The International Carnivorous Plant Society.
PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher.
ACCOUNTING - Tracy Greeno tracy@maximumyield.com
Connect With Maximum Yield
Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.
VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 4 November/December 2011
green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world. owners of BAC or Biological Activated Cocktail. Before joining the team in 2003, Hans had his own hydroponic shop for six years. His “How to Grow” seminars run in conjunction with BAC’s products as examples. After five successful years, BAC is expanding and will include their products in Holland, Spain, Germany, Portugal, UK and, in the future, U.S.A.
CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds
Donald Lester is the plant
products manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, Australia and New Zealand. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
Maximum Yield | November/December
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SIMON says
Good day, I want to run a 400 watt light on solar power. Can you tell me how it can be done and what I require to make this possible? I need to run the light for up to 18 hours. I hope you can assist me. Regards Keith
Well Keith focusing on harnessing power from the sun is always an excellent idea and a feasible opportunity for those gardeners looking to grow indoors when there is a lack of space outside but lots of good sunshine to use. Solar power can be generated in two distinct ways: the first is to align a series of mirrors to reflect sunlight onto a small surface, which superheats a liquid substance that powers a turbine. It can be the most efficient way to access the sun’s energy but it is expensive and uses vast amounts of land. The second, more residentially friendly, way channels electrons from the sun’s rays through silicone panels and into batteries or directly onto a power grid. Electrical energy is measured in watts and solar panels are primarily grouped based on their maximum wattage. This value fluctuates with variables such as temperature, angle of the sun and shading, which all reduce the potential energy created. The panels are becoming more efficient with most falling between 14 to 22 per cent efficiency. One company has actually achieved over 40 per cent but I am sure this comes with a high price tag. When thinking about price, you need to consider the amount and size of panels required. The first and most obvious cost is installing a solar array. 8
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
To run a 400 watt light you need 400 watts of panels functioning at peak efficiency.You will be running your lights longer than normal sunlight hours so you will need to generate, and perhaps store, more energy. Each 200 watt panel will cost you about $1,000 not including installation; you need at least three of these panels to run your light for the time you require. You also need a way of taking the direct current (DC) created by the panels and converting it into alternating current (AC). For this task you need a grid tie inverter, one that handles a maximum load of 400 watts will be $300 but you will need one slightly bigger to cover three 200 watt panels. This means that you will have spent at least $3,300 not including installation. A pretty large price tag for green energy and one you need to consider. Check with you local government to see if there are any tax breaks or grants you might qualify for. Now you must decide whether to store or connect your power. If you are planning to conduct this experiment off the grid you will require a
battery pack to store excess energy produced, unless you will only use the lights when sun is hitting the panels. Your requirement of 18 hours of light would make this a virtual impossibility. I am not familiar with the cost or maintenance of battery storage but a visit to a green energy site might help with the concept. The easier option is to turn you house into an energy provider for the larger grid. In some jurisdictions this could simply mean that your metre could theoretically turn back to zero meaning your monthly bill would be zero. In other areas, if you produce more power than you use you can actually gain income from this energy production. Check with local authorities to get the most accurate information. Good luck channelling its energy where the sun doesn’t shine!
Maximum Yield | November/December
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MAX FACTS
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Versatile Compound Examined in Crops Scientists are“spiking”laboratory diets fed to corn earworms and fall armyworms with saponins from soybeans, switchgrass, yerba mate and other sources to determine their effectiveness in protecting plants from insect attacks. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
Futurist Melissa Sterry Looks on the Bright Side… In a recent interview with Urban Times magazine, futurist Melissa Sterry predicted that people might one day start looking at natural disasters as opportunities rather than catastrophes, calling such cataclysmic events as earthquakes and volcanic eruptions “absolutely essential operating functions of our planet” and “Earth’s surface-recycling system.” Sterry urged city planners to build more resiliency and adaptability to changing environmental conditions into the cities of the future and suggested that humans might eventually learn to harvest “kinetic energy from floods and nutrients from volcanic eruptions, while mimicking the way in which natural ecosystems build resilience to reduce the damage such events can cause.” (Source: www.theurbn.com)
flower power Scientists are investigating the pest-fighting potential of anthocyanins, healthful chemical compounds in the form of plant pigments that give blueberries, plums, grapes and flowers such as petunias their blue and purple color. Studies of anthocyanins could give rise to new crop varieties that boast dual-use phytochemicals—fighting pests and benefiting human health. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
New ‘Smart’ Window System Delivers Unprecedented Performance A study appearing in the journal ACS Nano is reporting that a new ‘smart’ window system has the unprecedented ability to inexpensively change from summer to winter modes, darkening to save air conditioning costs on scorching days and returning to crystal clarity in the winter to capture free heat from the sun. Although ‘smart’ windows that reflect sunlight away from buildings in summer and switch back to full transparency in winter are already in use, they have many drawbacks—including high cost, rapid deterioration in performance and manufacturing processes that involve potentially toxic substances. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
Slow Food’s 1,000 Sustainable Gardens for Africa One thousand gardens are blooming across Africa, where the international organization Slow Food is helping schools, villages and other communities grow fruits, vegetables and herbs using sustainable water management, pest repellent and fertilizing techniques. In Uganda, most of the food that makes up the daily diet is imported. The country’s soil is rapidly losing fertility, local varieties are disappearing, young people are abandoning the countryside and contempt for farming work is widespread (schoolchildren are often sent to work in the fields as punishment for bad behaviour). In this context, a project was launched in 17 schools, with a total of 620 students. Scholarships have enabled some young people from Africa to study at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy and then return home to help their communities strengthen their economies and protect their cultural identities. (Source: www.treehugger.com)
Meeting World Food Needs, Sustainably Agroecology—which takes a whole-system approach to the production of food and draws on traditional knowledge, alternative agricultural practices and local food system experiences—relies on simple farming techniques, which increase crop yield by promoting beneficial interactions between soil, nutrients, crops, pollinators, trees and livestock and has so far led to average increases in crop yields of nearly 80 per cent in 286 projects in 57 countries around the world. (Sources: www.makingitmagazine.net, www.theurbn.com)
Produce Industry Group Rejects Call for Retail Mark-up Disclosures A spokesman representing the leading trade association in the Australasian produce and floral industry has rejected calls by Australian politicians to support a bill that would require big supermarkets to disclose price mark-ups on fresh produce, saying that such a bill would be almost impossible to implement. Michael Worthington, CEO of PMA A-NZ, also stated that members of his organization were unable to understand what could be gained from the proposed bill, saying that it was “a competitive retail market out there for fruit and vegetables.” (Source: http://hydroponics.com.au)
Bumblebees Not Welcome The minister for the Environment, Water, Heritage and the Arts has rejected an AHGA application for the live import of bumblebees into Australia, although the AHGA has not received official notification of the decision and no explanation has been provided. The AHGA has issued two press releases voicing concern and providing technical rebuttal of the factual inaccuracies contained in the government statement and a further response will be forthcoming once notification with explanation has been received and considered. (Source: www.protectedcroppingaustralia.com)
Maximum Yield | November/December
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S
HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.
Evolution-RO1000 Evolves With 1:1 Ratio Hydro-Logic Purification Systems now offers customers the choice to conserve more water. The Evolution-RO1000 now includes the option to reduce your wastewater and achieve a true 1:1 ratio. Other systems require higher than standard household pressure to give true 1,000 GPD flow rates, cost nearly twice as much and do not give the option to choose your own ratio. Hydro-Logic is the clear choice for quality, customer support, cutting edge technologies and price. Contact your favourite retail distributor for more information on this exciting new update to the EvolutionRO1000. Pure water’s not magic. It’s logic.
Increase Beneficial Microbes With Bio Balancer Bio Balancer looks after the little things. Why use artificial beneficial microorganisms in your system when it already contains naturally-occurring populations that are ready and waiting for the right conditions to go to work? Bio Balancer is uniquely formulated to provide the food necessary for these good bugs to grow. If you prefer to add beneficial microorganisms to your system, then Bio Balancer is the ideal way to make sure they thrive and don’t starve. Bio Balancer is suitable for use in soil, cocopeat or recirculating systems of all types. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
Cyco Coco Peat Cyco Coco Peat proudly displays the RHP Dutch Standard stamp for horticultural substrates, which ensures strictly monitored quality insurance that will give you constant, proven results. Our customers rely on the RHP standard as a sign of excellence. Cyco Coco Peat is a clean product that is free from harmful parasites and diseases. Cyco Coco Peat is a natural compliment to the products in the Cyco Platinum Series. We guarantee: pre-buffered and pH stabilized; high water absorption and essential air ratio; natural and biodegradable; environmentally friendly; clean and free from pests; free from viruses; free from chemical additives. Visit your favourite indoor gardening shop to learn more.
Quiet and Powerful Air Box Stealth The Air Box Stealth obliterates excess heat, destroys odour and circulates fresh air! Air Box is a highly effective air filtering system that blasts bad air and odours to oblivion. It is the only inline filter with push pull capability. It is adaptable to any existing duct system and is easy to use; changing or refilling cartridges is quick and easy. The Air Box Stealth features interchangeable high flow carbon filters and premium virgin coconut charcoal. It is 100 per cent air tight for continuous worry-free operation. Available from 500 to 3,500 CFM (in five sizes). For more information, visit your local indoor gardening shop.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
Cyco Platinum ProKit The Cyco Platinum ProKit is the perfect choice for serious gardeners. This complete package of superior formulated products includes everything required from start to harvest. The ProKit contains an easy-to-read grow and bloom chart for all mediums. Both charts are based on a week-to-week, colour-coded system, making the ProKit one of the most user-friendly kits available. Contents include: one litre each of Cyco Grow A+B, Cyco Bloom A+B, Cyco Swell, Cyco Potash Plus, Cyco Silica, Cyco Zyme, Cyco B1 Boost, Cyco Dr. Repair, Cyco Uptake, 100 millilitres of Cyco XL and an information booklet. Visit your favourite indoor gardening shop to learn more.
Chameleon Fabric Pot by Root Pouch Root Pouch’s award-winning fabric pot technology is now available in our new Chameleon line. Choose from standard and digital designs in Woodland or Desert Camouflage used by military forces around the world. Our Chameleon line of fabric pots has the ability to blend in with its surroundings as an effective form of camouflage. Check out the new camo line at your local indoor/outdoor gardening shop.
Maximum Yield | November/December
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT New Elements Bloom A&B The new Elements is a premium four part nutrient specifically optimised for Grow (two parts) and Bloom (two parts). Nutrifield® Elements is the by-product of an extensive research program that was undertaken to improve the key stages in plant development. The key factors from this study helped identify early root development for Elements® Bloom to ensure an impact on fruit and flower maturation, flavour and hardening. The new formula will achieve optimum results with Nutrifield® Hydro Clay, as well as rockwool, vermiculite, perlite and all soil mixes. Nutrifield® Elements has been scientifically formulated using chelated pharmaceutical grade salts. It contains each of the 16 key macro-, secondary and micro elements required for plant nutrition and is enriched with natural plant ingredients to deliver high performance in your growing medium. Available in one litre, five litres and 20 litres at your local hydroponics shop.
A Massive Crop Needs a Massive Root System Regen-A-Root is the original, and the best, root stimulator available. It combines great performance, ease of use and value for money. Regen-A-Root is the only product that forces brown, nearly dead roots to regrow, keeping them white and healthy through the flowering period. This is normally the time when roots are most susceptible to disease. Leaves that start to yellow three or four weeks after flowering is caused by root die-off and the plant being unable to extract the nutrients it desperately needs. Regen-A Root stops this problem. Visit your favourite garden shop more information.
Cyco Potash Plus Cyco Potash Plus strengthens plants and aids in water retention, which improves yields and transportability. It balances other nutrients, especially nitrate, to make sure they are used by plants efficiently, so as to avoid losses that might be harmful to the plant. Cyco Potash Plus will also help in the development of large, healthy flowers. Many of the functions of potash in the plant are related to physiological conditions and stress. These functions are diverse and include efficient nitrogen and improved water use, drought tolerance and frost resistance. Visit a hydro shop near you for more information.
Announcing Hydro-Logic’s Portable Water Purification Systems No matter what the water source—lake, river, stream, stagnant surface water, rain, high TDS, brackish or sea water—our filtration systems can handle the most challenging contamination levels. Three different filtration options are available, including Ultra-Filtration, Reverse Osmosis and Sea Water Reverse Osmosis, and each one fits into a virtually indestructible case the size of a standard suitcase. Each system can be powered by a variety of sources including: direct AC120 volts, 240 volts, solar PV, wind turbine, car battery or generator. You can produce pure, safe, drinking water at pennies per litre saving precious resources. Visit your favourite hydroponics shop for more information.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
Increased Yields and Quality With Head Masta Head Masta will transform your crops into high-yielding, high quality, super crops. Head Masta does this in four ways: it stimulates plant hormonal responses that induce increased flower formation; it pumps plant cells full of the extra vitamins and minerals needed by the plant to convert excess light and nutrients into the highest quality amino acids, proteins and carbohydrates; it pumps more silicon into plant cells; and finally, it increases the plant’s desire for potassium. Visit your favourite hydro shop to place an order.
New Elements Grow A&B The new Elements is a premium four part nutrient specifically optimised for Grow (two parts) and Bloom (two parts). Nutrifield® Elements is the by-product of an extensive research program that was undertaken to improve the key stages in plant development. The key factors from this study helped identify early root development for Elements® Grow to ensure an accelerated vegetative growth boost and ingredients to aid in cell division. The new formula will achieve optimum results with Nutrifield® Hydro Clay, as well as rockwool, vermiculite, perlite and all soil mixes. Nutrifield® Elements has been scientifically formulated using chelated pharmaceutical grade salts. It contains each of the 16 key macro-, secondary and microelements required for plant nutrition and is enriched with natural plant ingredients to deliver high performance in your growing medium. Available in one litre, five litres and 20 litres at your local hydroponics shop.
Maximum Yield | November/December
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i Love the Smell of H2O in the Morning by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Good quality water is vital for a healthy hydroponic system, but just because what comes out of the tap is clean, clear and good to drink, doesn’t mean your plants will love it as well. Water quality and treatment focuses on making water safe for us, even if that means using disinfectant chemicals to kill human pathogens. Secondary focuses are in treating water so it won’t cause us other hassles such as pipe corrosion, scale formation on appliances, unwanted odours and staining minerals. However, with municipal water treatment no real concern is given to plants or hydroponic systems, so growers are on their own in determining if their water supply is a problem and what to do about it.
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Maximum Yield |  November/December 2011
There are many options for water treatment and even small growers can use RO, oxygenation and UV treatment systems.
Municipal water supplies Many indoor gardeners are reliant on municipal water supplies and have few other options for a better quality water source. It’s likely that some plant losses have and do occur as a result of some municipal water supplies, particularly in sensitive species and in water culture systems where there is no media to act as a buffer. On the other hand, many municipal water supplies are quite suitable and given that they have had organic matter and pathogens removed already, are a good deal as far as hydroponic systems go. Interestingly plants have rather different responses and requirements from a water supply than humans and this is where problems can occur. Municipal water treatment ensures that drinking water meets the World Health Organization (WHO) and EPA standards for mineral, chemical and biological contamination levels, making it generally very safe to drink and use. However, what is safe for us to drink may not be so good for plant growth, particularly when we consider many hydroponic systems are recirculating which allows buildup of unwanted contaminants in the plant root zone. Maximum Yield  | November/December
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I love the smell of h2o in the morning
problems. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is also used in the industry, and by laboratories to remove chloramines from water after they have done their disinfection job. Chemicals are also added to drinking water to adjust its hardness or softness, pH and alkalinity. Water that is naturally acidic is corrosive to pipes and sodium hydroxide may be added to reduce this. Sodium is a contaminate we don’t need in hydroponic systems, but may be present at surprisingly high levels in certain water supplies. Domestic water softeners may also contaminate the water with sodium, which is not seen as a problem for drinking, but can run amuck with a well-balanced hydroponic system and sodium sensitive crop.
What water problems may look like Recirculating solution culture systems such as NFT have less buffering capacity to water treatment chemical residues than organic media-based systems.
Water treatment options used by municipal suppliers change over time and hydroponic growers should be aware of the implications of these. Many years ago the main concern was the use of chlorine as a disinfection agent to destroy bacteria and human pathogens. Chlorine had the advantage in that it disinfected water effectively; however, residual chlorine in water sources, which could often be detected by smell, could be toxic to sensitive plants and where it built up in certain hydroponics systems. Also when chlorine reacts with organic matter it forms substances (trihalomethanes), which are linked to increased risk of cancer and other health problems. Chlorine was, however, quite easy to remove from water with the use of aeration or even just aging the water a few days before irrigating plants. In the 1990s it was found that some organisms such as Cryptosporidium were resistant to chlorine and the resulting health issues from this meant that drinking water regulations were changed and alternative disinfection methods began to be used. These included use of ozone and UV light, chloramines (chlorine plus ammonia) and chlorine dioxide. Filtration, flocculation, settling, UV and ozone used for water supply treatment are non problematic as far as hydroponic systems go, as they leave no residue and are effective. However, use of chloramines and some of the other chemicals by municipal water treatment plants may still pose problems where high levels are regularly dosed into water supplies. Chloramines are much more persistent than chlorine and take a lot longer to dissipate from treated water, so gardeners who are concerned can use a couple of different treatment methods just as those with aquarium fish often choose to do. There are specifically designed activated carbon filters that can remove most of the chloramines in a domestic water supply and also dechloraminating chemical or water conditioners available in pet shops. Carbon filters must be of the correct type that have a high quality granular activated carbon and allow a longer contact time which is required for chloramines removal. Even then not every trace may be removed, but levels are lowered enough to prevent 18
Maximum Yield |  November/December 2011
It’s extremely difficult to determine if something in the water supply is causing plant growth problems. Root rot pathogens may originate in water, but they can come from a number of sources, including fungal spores, blown in dust or brought in by insects. Mineral problems can be a little easier to trace if the water supply analysis is available to check levels of elements. Plant problems that may be caused by water treatment chemicals are difficult to diagnose as some plants are much more sensitive than others and the type of system also plays a role. Research studies have reported that chloramines in hydroponic nutrient solutions can cause growth inhibition and root browning in susceptible plants. One study reported that the critical chloramines amount at which lettuce plant growth was significantly inhibited was 0.18 mg Cl/g root fresh weight, however, the levels at which some other species would be damaged is as yet undetermined.
Water quality problems and their effects on plant growth are hard to diagnose, although root browning and stunted growth are common symptoms.
Young seedlings and clones are particularly sensitive to water quality problems.
Similar problems exist with the use of other water treatment chemicals; chlorine and hydrogen peroxide are good disinfection agents, but too much in the hydroponic nutrient will cause root damage and just what is a safe level is dependant on a number factors such as the level of organic loading in the system.
Hard water Hard water is water that has a high mineral content, usually calcium and magnesium, with calcium present as calcium carbonate or calcium sulphate. Hard water can occur in wells and municipal sources and has a tendency to form hard lime scale on surfaces and equipment. A hard water supply is generally not a major problem for hydroponic gardens; calcium and magnesium are useful elements for plant uptake, however, high levels in the water can upset the balance of a nutrient solution making other ions less available. Commercial growers routinely use hard water supplies and adjust their nutrient formulation to take into account the Ca and Mg naturally occurring in the water and also adjust for any alkalinity problems with water acidification. Smaller growers can use one of the many excellent hard water nutrient products on the market to get a similar effect.
Ground water – wells Many commercial hydroponics growers use well water for hydroponic systems and adjust their nutrient formulations to suit the natural mineral content of their water supply. Smaller growers would be advised to find out what is in their well water source just to check for potential problems as water that has percolated through soils tends to pick up some minerals and in some areas, high levels of unwanted elements such as sodium or trace elements. Well water can also contain pathogens and may Maximum Yield  | November/December
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I love the smell of h2o in the morning
“Generally rainwater is low in minerals, but in the process of collection from roofs and other surfaces, can collect wind blown dust and fungal spores.”
Solutions to water quality problems
There are a range of other treatment options that indoor gardeners can use to improve the quality of their water supply. If pathogen contamination is an issue, slow sand filtration is one of the most effective methods, although perhaps not that practical for those with limited space. Chemical disinfection methods for pathogen control include hydrogen peroxide, chlorine and other compounds, although care should be taken that most of the active chemical has dissipated before the water is used to make up the nutrient solution. Heat, distillation, reverse osmosis and UV treatment can all be used for pathogen control, with many small RO and UV treatment systems now on the market. UV filters for aquariums can be used for small hydroponic growers to treat water with good success, provided sufficient contact time is allowed. If excess minerals or unwanted elements such as sodium are present in a water supply, reverse osmosis (RO) or distillation can be used to remove these. Organic matter in ground water sources can be removed with settling and filtration and treatment with H2O2, while chemical contamination problems and removal of water treatment compounds are more easily treated with the correct type of activated carbon filter with a sufficient contact time.
Organic material such as coconut fibre gives a greater buffering capacity for some water problems, including residues from chemical water treatments, than solution culture systems. Drain-to-waste media systems are also useful where the water supply contains unwanted elements such as sodium as these aren’t as susceptible to the accumulation that can occur where the solution is recirculated over a long period of time. Where problems with unwanted minerals and very hard water exist, frequent changing and replacement of the nutrient in the system can also be useful to keep things in balance. Water with a high alkalinity will need considerably more acid to keep the pH down to acceptable levels than water with low alkalinity; however, by acidifying the water first before making up a nutrient solution or adding to the reservoir, much less acid will need to be added to the system to adjust pH over time.
Salt buildup and plant damage can occur where certain high mineral water sources are used and not adjusted for.
Seed germination is particularly sensitive to water quality, both in terms of chemical residues and pathogen spore contamination.
need treatment before use, although often it is just the mineral levels that need adjustment. Water from dams, lakes and springs is usually similar to well water, but can contain much higher revels of sediment, organic matter and fungal pathogen spores.
Rainwater Rainwater collection can be a good way to bypass problems with municipal or well water in some areas; however, there are still some risks. Acid rain from industrial areas, sodium in coastal sites and high pathogen spore loads in agricultural areas can still occur. Generally rainwater is low in minerals, but in the process of collection from roofs and other surfaces, can collect wind blown dust and fungal spores. While this is generally not a problem for healthy plants, rainwater should be treated before use with young seedlings and clones where pathogens could infect sensitive tissue and open wounds.
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“Hard water can occur in wells and municipal sources and has a tendency to form hard lime scale on surfaces and equipment.”
Supercharged water for hydroponics While it seems logical that pure, clean and demineralized water is the best place to start when making up a hydroponic nutrition solution, the possibility of creating a water source that has certain benefits for plants is a relatively new concept.Water is not just a carrier for essential nutrient ions, the nutrient solution becomes a whole biological system in its own right with organic matter, root exudates, various species of microbes including fungi, bacteria and their by-products (both good and bad), beneficial and unwanted mineral elements and a range of additives growers may be using. Some studies have found that inexplicable growth increases could be obtained using certain ground water sources compared to rain or RO (essentially pure) water to make up a hydroponic nutrient solution indicating there may be natural factors in such waters that have benefits. Not all ground water sources have this effect; in fact, some can have negative influences on plant growth. Furthermore, another essential plant nutrient—oxygen in dissolved form—is usually present in water supplies; however, some water treatment processes can drive much of the dissolved oxygen (DO) out of a water source. In theory it would be possible to not only remove those things in the water we don’t want—pathogen spores, unwanted minerals, chemical residues from water treatment—but to also boost the water with useful properties such as a high DO content, a population of useful and disease suppressant microbes and some natural and potentially beneficial minerals and compounds. One way of achieving this would be with the use of slow sand filters or mineral filters for water supplies that are inoculated with beneficial microbes and with oxygenation of the water for a few days before making up nutrient solutions or topping up reservoirs. Further down the track we may see quicker and easier methods of supercharging water for hydroponic systems, taking water quality to a whole new level of science. MY References: Effects of chloramines concentration in the nutrient solution and exposure time on plant growth in hydroponically cultured lettuce. Date S, Terabayashi S, Kobayashi Y and Fujime Y., 2005. Scientia Horticulturae Vol. 103 issue 3, pp 257.
Maximum Yield | November/December
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Root01 Pruning1 by Gaby Bronzstein
Plant roots are out of sight and for many indoor growers this means they are also out of mind.This is quite unfortunate as optimal root health is critical if plants are to achieve their genetic potential. When roots are properly pruned, the root system branches and becomes fibrous.This is similar to what occurs when you prune some plants from the top.The secondary roots can also be pruned.When this process is repeated frequently an extremely fibrous root system forms.The fibrous root systems created are much more productive due to the increased number of root tips. Studies show the increased surface area of root tips equals an increase in nutrient and water uptake. The following are the most common methods of root pruning: Clippers. If done properly, root pruning with clippers can be effective. However, it is not practical primarily because it shocks the plant, which results in delayed growth. Cutting roots leaves an open wound that can serve as a pathway for pathogens. Chemicals. Sprayed copper containers have been used successfully to prune roots.When the root tips reach the copperlined pots the roots are forced to branch as the copper can burn the root tip.While this method is quite effective at pruning roots and preventing circling, copper toxicity can be a problem. Root constriction. This method of root pruning uses material that allows the root tip to grow through the 22
Maximum Yield |  November/December 2011
material yet it constricts the plant from growing larger. Branching occurs as a result of the constriction.This system of root pruning has been used for years in tree farms.The benefit of using this system is that not only do you create a fibrous root system in the container but the roots grow into the ground making it easier to feed and water the plants while not having them blow over. Plants are moved by simply lifting the container from the ground, stripping away any roots growing through the container and then removing the inground container.This creates minimal stress as most of the roots are still in the container and those removed are small. Air root pruning. Air pruning of roots is accomplished with the use of containers that direct the root toward air where the root tip is dehydrated, facilitating branching. Next, the roots are directed to an opening where they are pruned. The first effective air pruning containers were bottomless milk cartons placed on a wire bench. The first trials were conducted with seedlings. The tap root grew down to the bottom of the container, through the wire bench and was exposed to air. Branching would occur back along this root for about 10 centimetres. The newest versions of air pruning containers offer unparalleled performance and create extremely fibrous roots. One option is shaped in such a way that when the roots hit the side wall they get directed downward into an air hole. This is where the air pruning takes place. This process is repeated again and again with the branching roots creating extremely fibrous root systems. Other air pruning containers have many more holes all around the container at the end of downward facing protrusions. This design allows the roots to find the air holes immediately when reaching toward the container wall. The downward protrusions direct the roots so that when they reached the air hole it is virtually impossible for the tip to escape being pruned. The angled
protrusions on the containers also provide shade for the entire container keeping them much cooler than standard containers. These containers may dry out a little faster indoors, but they actually conserve water. Root tip-trapping. In situations where water conservation is critical, root trapping bags are a great option for root pruning. Root trapping bags work by trapping the root in the fabric and forcing it to branch. Over 100 root tips can be pruned in just 6.5 square centimetres of fabric! Some root trapping bags are lined in white on the outside of the bag making it more durable and reflecting heat in the form of solar energy. These containers can also be used with media like hydroton or perlite.This is because generally these systems get irrigated too often to allow hydration of the root tip in order to prune the roots. Root tip-trapping is also shown to be extremely effective when placed under propagation media. Numerous experiments with a number of media and containers have shown that simply placing the root trapping material under rockwool or even a standard cell pack, for instance, will prune the roots that hit it forcing massive side branching of roots. Proper root pruning is an extremely valuable tool for growers that grow at home. It has taken over 40 years to fully understand the best way to care for roots and today the options are virtually limitless. MY
This plant is experiencing severe circling roots, a condition that can cause serious damage and even death.
Three days after germination this cucumber is showing healthy white roots.
A modern air pruning container keeps this Japanese Maple cool and thriving.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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Fungi Fascination by Donald Lester
Upgrade your grow with mycorrhizal fungi
There are many species of fungi, bacteria, viruses and protozoa commercially available for the biological control of insects, diseases and weeds. Some products offer mixtures of various organisms. This article will cover one particularly easy-to-use type of fungi that helps control soil diseases and makes otherwise unavailable soil nutrients available to plants—this fungi is known as mycorrhizae. Mycorrhizal fungi are a group of fungi that live on and within plant roots in a symbiotic or mutually beneficial relationship. The fungus attaches itself to the plant root and then grows out into the soil with very fine roots or mycelium. These mycorrhizal root systems increase the absorbing area of plant roots 10 to 1,000 times thus greatly improving the ability of plants to utilize soil resources. In return the fungus receives finished product in the form of carbohydrates, proteins and sugars. Mycorrhizal fungi are able to absorb all of the 15 major macro- and micronutrients required for plant growth. Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the soil that dissolve hardto-capture nutrients such as phosphorus. It does this so well that mycorrhizae do not perform well in phosphorus rich soils. This phenomenon is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non-mycorrhizal plants require higher levels of fertility to maintain their health. Moreover, this extended root system is very important for water uptake and storage. In non-irrigated conditions, plants inoculated
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with mycorrhizae are under far less drought stress compared to untreated plants. Over 95 per cent of crops not only respond positively to colonization by mycorrhizal fungi, but they may suffer in the absence of mycorrhizae (Kendra Baumgartner, USDA California). Mycorrhizal fungi in nature are lost due to soil disturbances such as mining, construction or erosion; strong acid or chemical treatments; pesticides, excessive heat, drought or flooding; and denial of oxygen or water by asphalt, concrete, soil compaction and roads. In indoor gardens mycorrhizae must be introduced into sterilized soils and maintained because of losses due to the use of strong sterilizers, waterlogged soils low in oxygen and excessive fertilization. Mycorrhizae work well within integrated pest management (IPM) programs and organic programs; are effective in resistance management; break down crop residue thus freeing up valuable nutrients for plants; and are non-burning and non-phytotoxic to plants.
There are two main types of mycorrhizae: ecto and endo. Endomycorrhizal fungi, also known as AM (arbuscular mycorrhizae): This group of mycorrhizal fungi is important in non-woody plants, including many agricultural crops, grasses and turf. They are sometimes called vesiculararbuscular mycorrhizae (VAM) due to specialized structures that the fungus creates. Although this type of mycorrhizae invades plant roots it does not harm the plant.
Ectomycorrhizal fungi: This group of mycorrhizal fungi grows between root cells and forms a sheath or mantle around plant roots, but it does not actually invade the plant cells. They are important to many woody perennials, bushes, shrubs and trees. There is a great potential for the use of mycorrhizal fungi as inoculants especially in the production and protection of high-value greenhouse-grown crops or transplanted vegetable crops such as tomatoes and other bedding plants. If using mycorrhizae as a control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early. If mycorrhizae are applied too late then the results will be disappointing. Mycorrhizae are not a miracle control, but with proper usage and realistic expectations you can have Mother Nature working for you. Maximum Yield  | November/December 2011
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Fungi fascination
Below are some general guidelines for using mycorrhizae in various greenhouse and hydroponic environments. As with any product, strict adherence to the label instructions is necessary for optimum performance.
Aeroponics Aeroponic systems are a more highly aerated environment than traditional hydroponics and have proven to be an excellent system for growing mycorrhizae without a physical substrate. This system allows the grower to actually see the fungi growing on root surfaces. Liquid formulations of mycorrhizae can be added to the nutrient solution and delivered through the misting system directly to the roots. Some filtering of the liquid before application may be required to prevent nozzle fouling.
Transplanting into containers Apply granules or liquid formulation directly into the planting hole making sure that the root ball has good contact with the mycorrhizae. Some products come in convenient biodegradable teabags, or sachets as they are known in Europe, that can be dropped into the planting hole making application quick and easy. As the plants grow maintenance applications can be applied as soil drenches. Bulk granular formulations can be placed in a sock or similar material and soaked for several hours to release the organisms and activate them. This liquid can then be used as a soil drench for maintenance applications as the season progresses.
Mix with growing media Many commercial potting mixes already contain mycorrhizal fungi incorporated into them. However, bulk granules of
“The use of molasses and other sugars as a mycorrhizal food source can stimulate pathogen development.” mycorrhizae can be mixed in with the soil before transplanting or being applied to the soil surface after transplanting much like a granular fertilizer. Incorporation of mycorrhizal fungi is especially important in sterilized soils to regain a population of beneficial microorganisms to out-compete pathogens. Bark, calcined clay, expanded clay and perlite provide good aeration. Peat and vermiculite hold more water and allow air to penetrate better than sand. Mycorrhizae are aerobic, meaning they require oxygen. They can grow in anaerobic or reduced oxygen environments like rice, but their populations are greatly reduced in these environments. So it is best not to waterlog the media for too long.
Bare root Bare root plants can be dipped into solutions containing mycorrhizal fungi that have been pre-activated. Mycorrhizal fungi are compatible with most common commercial rooting powders and water-absorbent gels. The teabag formulations can be soaked in water just like a regular teabag and the solution used for dipping. Granules can also be soaked in water for a few hours with the water being used as a base for a dipping solution as well.
Starter cubes Mycorrhizal fungi close-up.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
There are basically four kinds of starter cubes: rockwool, oasis cubes, organo-cubes and peat pots. The most favoured
types are rockwool, organo-cubes and oasis cubes as they retain water well and also hold enough air so that the medium does not stay too wet. Preparing the starter cubes varies with the kind of starter cube you are using. Organo-cubes come ready for use. The oasis and peat pot cubes should be pre-soaked with water that is adjusted to pH 6.0 to 6.5. The cubes need to be saturated and then allowed to drain. The cubes are now ready to use. Rockwool has a high pH and as a result must be treated differently. Rockwool cubes must be pre-soaked with water that is pH adjusted to 5.0. This low pH acid solution will balance the overall pH to a level that plants require. The cubes should be soaked for about 24 hours and then drained. They are then ready for use. Once the starter cubes are prepared you can plant the seed and apply mycorrhizal fungi. Gently cover the seed by packing some of the seed cube material from around the hole over the seed.
Sand culture Mycorrhizae, especially Glomus sp., do very well in sand culture systems through which recycled nutrient solution is passed several times a day (Ojala and Jarrell 1980). Simply inoculate the nutrient reservoir with mycorrhizae according to the label. Be careful in the use of strong compost teas or other green manure materials as food sources for mycorrhizae because the low pH of these materials can adversely affect mycorrhizae growth. Similarly, the use of molasses and other sugars as a mycorrhizal food source can stimulate pathogen development. Using humic acid as a carbon food source will help the mycorrhizae, and the soil-binding nature of humic acid will help build structure in the sand.
Sawdust bags Mycorrhizae can be incorporated into sawdust bags. The bag should be pre-soaked with nutrient solution 48 hours prior to setting the plants out in the bags. Transplant as usual with mycorrhizae pre-mixed in the sawdust or with mycorrhizae placed in the immediate vicinity of the root zone.
Mycorrhizae need carbon as a food source. Humic acids are a concentrated organic matter and are often used to supplement mycorrhizae in soil systems. Do not use dry dog food or other carbon sources not recommended by the manufacturer. Some growers try to supplement mycorrhizae populations with sugars and other materials that can promote pathogen development and lead to disastrous results. Follow up applications to the surface of the medium every few months will help maintain a healthy population of these beneficial fungi. In fact, if the roots have between 40 to 80 per cent coverage with white mycorrhizae fungi then you have a healthy population protecting your plants.
Shopping for mycorrhizal fungi There are a lot of mycorrhizal products on the market today. Growers are often wary of new products that suddenly appear on the market as copycats of more well known products. Here are some features and specifications to look for when buying mycorrhizae products. First, look for stable formulations. Over the years the packaging and use of beneficial microorganisms has become easier to use and more convenient. Many products now come as powders or liquids. One mycorrhizal product comes in a biodegradable teabag of powder and is often referred to as a teabag or a sachet. This powder contains spores and other fungal structures that need moisture to come out of dormancy. Dry formulations of mycorrhizae have a typical shelf life of 16 to 18 months although two years is not uncommon. Do not buy products that require refrigeration or special handling. Refrigerated products may have been allowed to get warm and be reduced in effectiveness long before you receive them. Stable products come in liquid, granular or teabag formulations. Second, look for combinations of mycorrhizae species in one product. A mixture will often give protection against more pathogens than a single mycorrhizal species.
Seeding Seeds can be put in direct contact with mycorrhizae at planting time. This ensures that the young roots are colonized early on for protection against water mould root rots like Pythium and Phytophthora. However, be sure that the mycorrhizae are compatible with any fungicides that may be applied with the seed or used as a seed treatment.
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Fungi fascination
High Quality Mycorrhizal Product
Low Quality Mycorrhizal Product
Liquid, granular, or teabag formulation
Refrigerated product
Mixture of ecto and endo types
Single species product
High CFU or spore count
Low CFU or spore count
Long shelf life - two years
Short shelf life
Reputable manufacturer
Questionable source
Active over wide temperature range
Active over narrow temperature range
Organic certification
Not organically certified
Also, several species of mycorrhizae may be combined to give longer season control because where one species starts to lose effectiveness the other may extend the protection. Moreover, products with a mixture of ectomycorrhizae and endomycorrhizae are applicable to a wider range of crops than a product with only one or the other. Keep in mind that beets, broccoli and canola do not respond to mycorrhizae. Third, look for a guaranteed analysis on the label. These numbers will give you the number of spores or colony forming units (CFUs) in the product. The higher the number then the more fungal seeds you have to inoculate your plant roots. Fourth, shelf life is important. It does you no good to have a large amount of spores at the time of manufacturing only to have nothing but water to apply when you are ready to use the product. A long shelf life ensures the product is live and active when you need it. Fifth, do your homework and see how long the product has been on the market. Reputable companies have been selling the product for many years and have a track record. Companies selling poor performing product will not be in the market for very long. Sixth, look for products that operate over a wide range of temperatures. Mycorrhizal fungi, like any living organism, slow down or die in extreme temperatures. The temperature
Mycorrhizal root tips
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
“Look for products that operate over a wide range of temperatures. Mycorrhizal fungi, like any living organism, slow down or die in extreme temperatures.” range in which the product is effective gives you an indication of how hardy the mycorrhizal strains are. Often manufacturers will mix mycorrhizae that have different points of inactivation due to high or low temperatures, again to extend protection time. Lastly, make sure the mycorrhizal product is organically certified. This ensures that the product does not contain any harmful human pathogens, genetically modified organisms or synthetically produced ingredients. Incorporating mycorrhizae into your indoor garden or growing operation is easy, safe and environmentally friendly. Look for mycorrhizal fungi products in your gardening catalog, local nursery or garden centre. By using mycorrhizae you will be promoting a more balanced population of soil microorganisms and reduce your use of harsh, toxic chemicals. And you will save yourself costly and worrisome disposal problems associated with chemical alternatives. Now that you’ve learned a little about mycorrhizae perhaps you will feel more confident in buying and using mycorrhizal fungi in your indoor garden or protected cropping system. MY
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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NPK
Deficiencies by Des Warnock
Elemental deficiencies in plants are common and may occur when one or more of the elements are deficient. Common signs of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium deficiencies are outlined. vegetables—apart from nitrogen-fixing legumes—are prone to this disorder. Symptoms include poor plant growth and leaves are pale green or yellow in the case of brassicas. Lower leaves show symptoms first. Leaves in this state are said to be chlorotic with reduced chlorophyll. Flowering and fruiting may be delayed.
Nitrogen (N) deficiency in plants can occur when woody material such as sawdust is added to the soil. Soil organisms will use any nitrogen in order to break this down, thus making it temporarily unavailable to growing plants. Nitrogen drawdown is more likely on light soils and those low in organic matter content, although all soils are susceptible. Cold weather, especially early in the season, can also cause a temporary shortage. All
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Phosphorus (P) deficient leaves show some necrotic (dead) spots. As a rule, phosphorus deficiency symptoms are not very distinct and thus difficult to identify. A major visual symptom is that the plants are dwarfed or stunted. Phosphorus deficient plants develop very slowly in relation to other plants growing under similar environmental conditions but without phosphorus deficiency. Phosphorus deficient plants are often mistaken for unstressed but much younger plants. Under severe deficiency conditions there is also a tendency for leaves to develop a blue-gray luster. In older leaves under very severe deficiency conditions
Maximum Yield USA | November/December 2011
a brown netted veining of the leaves may develop.
Potassium (K) deficient plants show
marginal necrosis (tip burn) in the leaves. Others at a more advanced deficiency status show necrosis in the interveinal spaces between the main veins along with interveinal chlorosis. This group of symptoms is very characteristic of K deficiency symptoms. MY
IndustrY’s Latest
fRESH INDUSTRY NEWS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS, PLUS EXCLUSIVE GIVEaWAYS FOR GROWERS
Announcing the ‘Grow Like a Pro’ 2012 Indoor Gardening Expo Tour Dates
The dates are set, the venues are chosen and the ‘Grow Like a Pro’ 2012 Indoor Gardening Expo Tour is coming to four cities in North America. After the great success of this year’s Denver, Colorado Expo, we will be returning to the Mile High City March 10 to 11, 2012 to kick off the first show of the 2012 tour. The expo tour hits Michigan June 2 to 3, 2012 for the Great Lakes Indoor Gardening Expo. Our 9th Annual San Francisco Expo is scheduled for July 21 to 22, 2012 with a bigger-than-life venue. The final stop on the expo tour will be in Long Beach, California in October. This special event will be a combination Indoor Gardening/Hydrolife Expo. You won’t want to miss it! Stay tuned to www.indoorgardenexpo.com for event details and updates.
Simply Hydroponics Australia is Growing
Simply Hydroponics has added a third location to their growing family of hydroponic retail shops in Australia. The new location is in Pakenham, Victoria, Factory 6/3-11 Bate Close, phone: 03 5940 9047. You can also visit them at their other two locations in Epping (Factory 8, 59-61 Miller Street, phone: 03 9408 4677) and in Hoppers Crossing (5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Road). Visit www.simplyhydroponics.com.au for more information.
Nutrifield is Growing on Facebook
Nutrifield is growing rapidly on Facebook with over 1,000 fans and counting. Ask questions, talk about products and stay upto-date on hydroponics and relevant events, articles and more. Nutrifield’s Facebook page is a developing hydroponic community. Stop by www.facebook.com/Nutrifield and connect with us.
Hydro-Logic Purification Systems Introduces Our New Product Guide
This informative, 14 page booklet features all of our industry leading water purification systems and puts vital information in the hands of growers. Each page highlights one of our cutting edge water filtration systems and lists what the system includes and the features of their components. This convenient brochure gives you all the information you need on the benefits of using pure water, and why it is important as the foundation of any feed schedule to maximize the quality and quantity of your harvests. There are also pages that list options so you can modify or customize any garden’s set-up, as well as a filter guide that indicates which contaminants each filter reduces. It is crucial for any gardener to use the purest water possible to insure consistent results in the garden. Call us any time for more information at 1-888-426-5644.
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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Decoded: Fertilizer Injector Usage by Guy Sela
Do the math, learn the lingo Modern fertilization systems include fertilizer injectors that belong to one of two types: fertilizer injectors that are electrically powered (independently or by a controller) and fertilizer injectors that are mechanically powered by water pressure. Both types inject fertilizer solutions into the irrigation water. The ratio in which the solution is injected is termed the injection rate. This ratio can be expressed as percentage or as v/v (volume/volume). For example, a ratio of five litres per metre cubed means that five litres of fertilizer solution is injected into each cubic metre of irrigation water. The same fertilizer injector rate can be expressed as a percentage at 0.5 per cent (five litres/1,000 x 100) or as 1: 200. A higher fertilizer injector rate means more fertilizer solution is injected into the irrigation water.
Factors affecting efficient operation of fertilizer injectors There are three essential factors that need to be considered to ensure an efficient operation of a fertilizer injector: the required injector flow rate, the water pressure and the materials the fertilizer injector is made of.
Injector flow rate The required flow rate of a fertilizer injector depends on: • the irrigation flow rate • the required fertilization level • the concentration of the fertilizer stock solution For reaching a certain fertilization level, higher irrigation flow rates require fertilizer injectors with higher flow rates. 36
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
“
Water pressure and water flow affect the performance of fertilizer injectors. Water flow through the fertilizer injector and water pressure in the irrigation line must be adequate for an efficient operation of fertilizer injectors.”
For example, if you want to inject five litres of fertilizer stock solution into one cubic metre of water, and the irrigation flow rate is 30 cubic metres per hour, you’ll need a fertilizer injector with a minimum flow rate of 150 litres per hour. It would be impossible for a fertilizer injector with a lower flow rate to reach the desired fertilization level. Use this simple calculation to check whether your fertilizer injector can provide the required fertilizers quantities: Divide the fertilizer injector flow by the irrigation flow to get the injection rate. For example, if your fertilizer injector flow is 150 litres per hour and the irrigation flow rate is 30 cubic metres per hour, then the maximal possible injection rate is five litres per cubic metre or 0.5 per cent (150/30).
If the flow rate of your fertilizer injector is too low, you can take one of the following actions: • Decrease the irrigation flow rate by irrigating fewer valves at the same time. • Increase the concentration of the fertilizer stock solution. In this case, make sure you don’t exceed the solubility limitations of the fertilizers. Water pressure and water flow affect the performance of fertilizer injectors. Water flow through the fertilizer injector and water pressure in the irrigation line must be adequate for an efficient operation of fertilizer injectors. For example, if the water pressure in the irrigation line is higher than the maximal pressure against which the fertilizer injector can work, the fertilizer solution might not be efficiently injected, and the fertilizer injector might even eventually not inject any fertilizers at all. MY
About the Author:
Guy Sela is an agronomist and a chemical engineer for his innovative software company, Smart Fertilizer (www.smart-fertilizer.com) that provides fertilizer management solutions. Applying his background in water treatment, he has lead a variety of projects on reverse osmosis, water disinfection and water purification, providing high quality water for irrigation.
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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Atmospheric Excellence:
If Plants Could Talk by Hans Kersbergen
Breakdown of environmental elements in the grow room and how to properly manage them for optimal climate control Room Temperature
The growth and bloom periods of plants are determined by time (12 or 18 hours), and also the colour of lights used (blue = grow period, red = bloom period). Plants will also react to the temperature of the room.The ideal temperature during the growth period is 24°C.This means summer temperatures during the day and in the evening will be warm. In this way, the plants will produce growth hormones, and when autumn starts, the daytime temperature will still be warm with the nighttime temperatures much cooler. When you keep the temperature in the bloom period 28°C when the lights are on and 20°C when the lights are off, it is a sign for the plants to produce bloom hormones.
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Humidity
Humidity is one of the most important properties to control in the grow room. In the growth period, you must keep the humidity around the plant about 85 per cent to avoid over-evaporation of cuttings. Focus your efforts on helping the substrate produce strong roots, which will be going in search of water, an action you want to see during the growth period. The only item you must be aware of is curling leaves, an indication that the leaves have a cooling problem.This can be a direct result of lack of water circulation through the plant via the roots (root pressure) or the humidity in the room may be too low. As your plants grow, they produce more leaves, which signals an increase in evaporation. During this time you must be aware of the grow room’s humidity. A higher humidity causes the roots to work harder at bringing water to the leaves. If leaves start to curl, they need cool water via the substrate.
Fans and Air Socks
It is very important to create the same temperature and humidity in the grow room every day. How do you do this? Place a ventilator in every corner so that air is blowing in a circle; this circulation will produce a cyclone. The only disadvantage to this is the eye of the cyclone will be at a higher temperature and
humidity than the rest of the room. To control this, simply place your filter in the middle of the room to take away the air. The plants also need fresh outside air, as it contains CO2. Allowing your plants to continue to grow in the evening will provide an additional benefit of 25 per cent more CO2 thanks to assistance from the plants and trees outside.This air must be brought into the room evenly using an air sock (placed between the filter and the reflectors).When the inlet air is too warm (above 18°C) you must put the air sock below the plants.This air sock is also preventative against all kinds of spores and mites and it muffles a noisy inlet.
Water Temperature and Tank
Your nutrient solution must be mixed in a reservoir that is dark in colour, as light will influence your water’s pH. Using a cover on the top of your tank will help keep light away. A circulation pump in the tank will help keep the nutrients dissolved in the water. An oxygen pump will provide improved root pressure. Another beneficial tool is a heating element in the tank, assisting with maintaining an ideal water temperature for the plant.The ideal temperature for the plant is 22°C, or room temperature of 24°C minus the evaporation of the plant—this is around two or three degrees.When the water quality is very poor use a filter or bring down the hardness of the water with a pH nitrogen minus (acid eats lime). Don’t use the water too long (two or three days) because it will get warmer (lose oxygen) but also the pH of the water will rise.
EC and Flush
When salts buildup in your substrate, it takes water away from the roots, causing them to have to fight for hydration. A domino effect then occurs, as the roots cannot get water quickly enough to the leaves and they start to curl. If this continues for a long period of time, the leaves will burn. Salt buildup is the result of improper nutrient ratios or a concentration of bad salts (chloride, sodium). Many growers flush their system when they start to see leaf curl, which they blame on too much nutrient. The best way to counteract leaf curl is to check the water levels in the substrate. If it is too dry, you can lower the EC in the water tank. But don’t forget to keep feeding. By neglecting your nutrient schedule, other problems will arise. Flushing can also create pythium (root rot) and long, stretching plants.
Watering
Watering of the plants depends on your climate; this includes the humidity, temperature, EC and air movements (in and out). When you follow a feeding schedule exactly you will see you plants evaporate at just the right amount. MY Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
39
The Grower’s Guide
t o D r y i n g a n d P r e s e r v i n g byHMatteLeBannister rbs
Surprisingly simple solutions for drying and preserving herbs The tradition of preserving herbs dates back as early as the great pharaohs of Egypt and the first Chinese emperors. Archaeologists even found a small satchel containing dried medicinal herbs on the “Ice Mummy” recovered in the Italian Alps. Herb gardens are small and easy to tend to.This is leading to a resurgence of gardeners willing to grow, harvest and preserve their own herbs. Most of us prefer to consume herbs fresh, since the potency of the plant diminishes when it is dried for preservation. By drying the herbs, they become impervious to moulds, mildews, disease and other problems.This also means that the herbs will be available for consumption or application during seasons when it is not available fresh. The only way to preserve herbs is to remove all moisture from the plant.There are three main methods for drying herbs effectively. Oven drying, frame drying and natural drying are the most common techniques. Each technique has its pros and cons and some are preferable to particular herbs. 40
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
The first method of herb preservation is oven drying. Oven drying takes about an hour and is the quickest method of drying.This artificial drying technique is more often used to dry herbs that contain a lot of moisture such as basil or mint. To properly oven dry your herbs place them uniformly on a baking tray. Make sure that the herbs are not touching each other. Cover the
tray with tin foil leaving the corners uncovered to allow moisture to escape. Place the tray in an oven preheated to 65°C. Flip the herbs every 15 minutes until they are evenly dried. With oven drying, you can over-cook or burn your herbs. If this happens, the herbs retain zero per cent of their original potency, making them worthless. Furthermore, oven drying your herbs means they will retain less of their original potency than herbs dried naturally.When herbs are being preserved for medicinal purposes, this loss of potency might be a good reason to try one of the following two drying techniques. The next two herb drying techniques are considered natural drying because they each use open air.The first method is quite easy, because it simply involves hanging the entire plant upside down and allowing the surrounding environment to remove the moisture from the herbs. An easy way to do this is to wrap an elastic band around the bottom of the plant. A paper clip can then have one end hooked into the elastic band and the other end can be used to hang the plant from a clothes hanger or string. Hanging the plant upside down allows essential oils to flow from the stems into the leaves or flowers that one wishes to keep.While easy, this method is the slowest process of drying herbs.This natural process is most often
“The only way to preserve herbs is to remove all moisture from the plant. There are three main methods for drying herbs effectively. Oven drying, frame drying and natural drying are the most common techniques.” used on herbs that do not contain a significant amount of moisture, such as dill and rosemary. Some gardeners prefer to hang dry their herbs outside. If you choose to do this make sure that there is plenty of sun. Herbs that are dried outside will encounter such risks as exposure to mould and other pathogens. It is safer to dry herbs indoors in a room with a dehumidifier or a room with excellent airflow. If a room like this is available, drying in the dark can be safe and effective. Drying culinary herbs in the dark can preserve the taste and smells, whereas drying the herbs in direct sun can often alter the taste of some herbs. Similarly to hang drying, frame drying is another method that involves natural open-air. Instead of hanging the plant upside down, the herbs should be spread evenly across the frame. In order to provide enough room so that the herbs do not touch each other, the frame should be at least one to 1.2 square metres. Line the bottom of the frame with tinfoil, keeping the reflective side facing up. Once the herbs are placed uniformly inside the frame, the glass lid should be fixed in place.The frame should not be airtight, to allow the moisture to escape. Now the frame is ready to be placed outside in a sunny area.The sun will penetrate the glass and reach the herbs. The sun will also hit the reflective side of the tinfoil and the grass will keep the heat of the sun inside the frame, making it more effective at drying herbs than simply hanging them outdoors.The herbs should be flipped once a day to ensure that they dry evenly.
Basil prepared for oven drying.
The main advantage to using either of these natural open-air herb drying techniques is that there is no chance of over-drying or burning. Also, the final product will retain more of its original potency that herbs dried in an oven. However, the disadvantage of these methods is that there is a risk of under-drying.This can allow mould to grow on the herbs, and ruin the final product as a result. These open-air drying techniques are, of course, slower than oven drying, for they can take one to six weeks to fully dry the herbs. Now that your herbs have been properly dried they need to be stored properly.The three most popular herb storage techniques are sealed plastic bags, plastic containers or glass mason jars. Sealed plastic bags, such as sandwich or snack bags, are good for shortterm storage of dried herbs. Despite what some people believe, these plastic bags are not completely airtight. Herbs stored in sealed plastic bags for long periods of time can take on the smells of any herbs stored near them. For these reasons sealed plastic bags or not recommended for storing herbs except as a last resort. Plastic containers are still slightly permeable to air, but far less than the bags. Since most herbs deplete in quality after one to two years, plastic containers are adequate for storing culinary herbs that will be used up relatively quickly, but such is not the case for medicinal herbs. Medicinal herbs are preserved best when they are stored in glass mason jars. Mason jars are airtight, so they will keep herbs potent much longer. Medicinal herbs will stay potent for up to five years if they are kept in mason jars and stored in the freezer. Herb gardens are springing up in backyards, balconies and indoor grow rooms. With the precious knowledge of how to dry and preserve herbs properly, there is no reason to ever go without those homegrown chives on your baked potato or the garden basil in your favourite pasta sauce. MY References: Hallowell, M.“Medicinal Herbs.” Mother Earth News, April/ May, 1992.
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
41
talking shop
Peter and Carole Stanford
AT A GLANCE Company: Accent Hydroponics (WA) Owners: Peter and Carole Stanford Location: Unit 2, 141 Russell Street Morley, Western Australia Hours: Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m Phone: 1-559-840-0122 E-mail: Peter@accenthydrowa.com.au Web: accenthydrowa.com.au Motto: “Professional honest advice.”
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
“Peter has been employed in a variety of professions,” Carole tells us, “but he’s always preferred to be self-employed. After school he joined the Royal Australian Air Force as an air electronics officer, resigned after 10 years—and in the years since, he’s been the owner and manager of a party and handyman hire company, a home renovator and builder, a ducted vacuum system installer and the hire controller for a machinery company. He also worked at Australia Post as a mail sorter, and after studying at university, finished up as a finance and budget controller at Australia Post.” Carole’s path was a bit different—she started out as a bookkeeper and typist for a printing company and very quickly worked her way up to practice manager for a large group of dentists, along the way becoming a very successful fundraiser for various charities. When things went south for Peter at the postal service he knew it was time for him and Carole to reconsider their future. They were both interested in the hydro business and it seemed like a good opportunity to build a business together. “After many discussions we decided to purchase Accent Hydroponics, which at that point had been running for approximately two years. The business offered the variety we were looking for—sales, manufacturing, repairs and the opportunity to live a healthy lifestyle, since we re both active people.” The two settled in to learn the business of running a busy grow shop. Initially Carole was working elsewhere, but was able to keep the accounts under control. “As the business grew,” Peter continues, “We quickly realized that we needed to increase stock levels to supply clients’
needs, because the nearest distributor/wholesaler was often 4,000 kilometres away in New South Wales or Victoria. This problem has been reduced considerably today, with more suppliers now located locally.” “Our customers have been loyal to us over the 14 years we have been running the business. We have also established good rapport with our suppliers, which helps when you have odd requests to deal with.” because our customers request it; House and Garden’s Initially Carole and Peter relied heavily on Yellow Pages adrange—which includes a great product called Roots Exceluvertising by running a large advertisement, which helped them rator; J B Ballasts, GE’s Lucagrow and Powerplant because of maintain market share and recognition. They also bumped up their reliability and warranty.” the personal service levels by offering customers coffee while Peter and Carole are very involved in local hydro projects and they discussed their hydro needs. In the age of the Internet their like to help others in the industry out where they can. advertising strategy was soon upgraded to putting up a web“Some of our successes have been supplying large quantities site—and due to the constantly changing nature of the Internet of polar gully for commercial strawberry and lettuce farms,” they are now in the process of modifying the website again. Carole says. “We’ve also supplied local schools with hobby kits “Advertising in local newsfor growing various vegetables papers has in our opinion not and the University of Western been anywhere near as effective Australia with an NFT system “We’ve also supplied local schools as advertising in industry-based for trials on genetically modiwith hobby kits for growing various items,” Peter explains. “The fied plants within their sterile best advertising is still word hot houses.” vegetables and the University of Western of mouth and we still offer Peter is proud to be a part Australia with an NFT system for trials on personal service, which includes of the hydroponics movegenetically modified plants” an after-hours service. Plus our ment and he feels that he store is still located in the same and Carole are doing someposition after all these years and thing worthwhile with their it is readily visible to the high business. volume of traffic passing by, with ample parking front and rear. “Our industry cannot stand still, because long-term—as the The only big change we’ve done has been to increase warepopulation increases and the land available decreases—hydrohouse storage by placing more shelving on the mezzanine level.” ponics will be one of the solutions to feeding mankind. ShortPeter and Carole know that having products constantly in term, the goal would be to have highrise buildings, apartments stock is essential in the hydroponics industry and that their cusand houses designed with hydroponics. Having the system tomers expect them to carry the best brands available. placed on the external walls would help control the internal “We carry a large range of equipment and products, from temperature of the building, which in turn would reduce the the better-known brands to those a bit less known,” Carole power requirements to cool or heat the building, while also tells us. “We carry Growth Technology for their nutrients and feeding the residents. Another consideration might be to adapt for propagation it’s hard to do better than Clonex. We carry or modify plants so they perform best in hydroponic systems.” Hydroponic Generations and the popular Budlink. We stock “Finally, as a consumer,” Peter concludes, “I feel the industry Flairform’s Pythoff because it’s a great nutrient conditioner needs to push for more recognition at the supermarket level— and we carry Cyco’s complete line of platinum products in so that consumers can be assured that the product they have just the pro kit. We also stock Second Nature because of their purchased does not contain any contamination, is healthy for excellent mineral composition; Dutchmaster and Nutrifield them and their family and is preferably grown locally.” MY Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
43
RETAIL
directory
AUSTRALIA ACT
South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617
(02) 6239 2598 (02) 6251 0600
NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870 Hobby Grow 6/46 Through Street South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511 Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700 International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311
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Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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(07) 3271 6210 (07) 3375 9098 (07) 5527 4155 (07) 4728 3957 (07) 4054 5884 (07) 4959 2016 (07) 3285 1355 (07) 5596 2250
Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA
(07) 3848 5288 (07) 5479 1011 (07) 3354 1588 (07) 4096 6443 (07) 4636 1077
(08) 8359 1800 (08) 8357 4700 (08) 8281 4066 (08) 8265 0665 (08) 8396 3133 (08) 8258 4022 (08) 8645 3105 (08) 8287 6399 (08) 8523 5100 (08) 8235 2004 (08) 8447-1122 (08) 8371 5777 (08) 8386 2596 (08) 8382 0100 (08) 8447 5899 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8244 0222 (08) 8346 9461 (08) 8395 4455 (08) 8260 2000 (08) 8391 1880 (08) 8272 2000 (08) 8241 5022 (08) 8377 1200 (08) 8262 8323 (08) 8260 5463 (08) 8242 3788 (08) 8283 4011 (08) 8445 1813 (08) 8351 9100 (08) 8528 6008 (08) 8353 0133 (08) 8365 5172 (08) 8532 3441
Seaton Hydroponics 129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 Urban Grow Solutions 1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 Green Acres Hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponics Systems 131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 VICTORIA Albury Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844
(08)82682636 (08) 8362 8042 (08) 8384 2380 (08) 8341 5991 (08) 8264 9455 (08) 8520 2287 (08) 8322 0040 (08) 8255 1355
(03) 6344 5588 (03) 6243 9490 (03) 6330 1177 (03) 6245 1066 (03) 6273 6088 (03) 6278 3457 (03) 6435 4411 (03) 6424 7815 (03) 6272 2202 (03) 6273 1411 (03) 6340 2222
(03) 9540 8000 (03) 9540 8000 (03) 9801 8070 (03) 5674 2584 (03) 9775 0495 (03) 9754 3712 (03) 9783 3006 (03) 5996 3697 (03) 9796 3776 (03) 9646 8133 (03) 9311 9776 (03) 9568 1860 (03) 5480 2036 (03) 5480 7080 (03) 9495 0083 (03) 9510 6832 (03) 9769 1411 (03) 9356 9400 (03) 5176 0898
Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311 GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372 Hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Indoor Garden Company 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861 Just Hydroponics Geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143 Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575 Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344 Simply Hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730 Simply Hydroponics - Pakenham Factory 6/3-11 Bate Close Pakenham, Victoria 3810 03 5940 9047 Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies 8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109
(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9725 7020 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546
Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017
(08) 9274 8388 (08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368 (08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9527 2245 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993
NEW ZEALAND
Easy Grow New Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland Easy Grow Manukau 15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth Otaki Hydroponics 1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki House of Hydro 221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington Pet and Garden 10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch Grow and Brew 14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui Switched on Gardener Number 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei Switched on Gardener Unit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson Switched on Gardener Unit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga Switched on Gardener Number 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton Switched on Gardener Number 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings Switched on Gardener Number 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield Switched on Gardener Number 1 Rata Street, New Lynn Switched on Gardener Number 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau Switched on Gardener Number 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga Switched on Gardener Number 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt Switched on Gardener Number 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD Switched on Gardener Number 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin
09 827 0883 09 263 7560 06 758 6661 06 364 2206 03 377 2507 09 426 2095 07 575 4090 (09)438 0223 (09) 837 1210 (09) 576 0296 (07) 850 8351 (06) 876 7885 (04) 472 5265 (09) 443 0106 (09) 826 4444 (09) 263 4336 (07) 579 9840 (04) 526 3913 (03) 546 4769 (03) 381 0937 (03) 374 5682 (03) 456 1980
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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COMING UP IN Jan-Feb
Root Zone Chillin’ Heat caused by intense light, small spaces and limited air exchange can contribute to heat buildup in your plants’ root zones. Stay in control with these chillin’ tips.
Product Mixing the Right Way Chemical incompatibility can manifest itself in many different ways, damaging your plants in the process. These simple suggestions and tests will help you avoid the dangers and save your plants.
Talking Shop With… Get to know your local hydro shop. We could feature your favourite grow gurus in the next issue. Recommend your favourite shop to be featured in Maximum Yield by e-mailing editor@maximumyield.com Nutes, lights, environmental control, exclusive AUS/NZ contests, industry’s latest, more!
www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield January/February will be available January 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand. Subscriptions are available by contacting editor@maximumyield.com or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php
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Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
DO YOUDO YOU KNOW?
1. 2.
Mycorrhizal root systems can increase the absorbing area of plant roots 10 to 1,000 times. A tomato plant carrying a substantial fruit load under high atmospheric demand conditions will require at least one litre of water during the daylight hours.
3.
The first attempts at air pruning containers involved putting holes or slices into normal containers.
4. 5.
Keeping the humidity in the grow room around 85 per cent will help avoid over-evaporation of small cuttings. The blades in vortex fans are configured like jet engines and manufactured to drag air long distances through filters and air-cooled shades.
6.
Most anaerobic organisms produce metabolic by-products, such as alcohol, that are toxic to plants.
7.
Although ectomycorrhizal fungi grows between root cells and forms a sheath around plant roots, it does not actually invade the plant cells.
Maximum Yield | November/December 2011
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Maximum Yield Australia | November/December | November/December 2011 2010