Australia September-October 2011
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Measuring Light Intensity Organic Hydroponics
Dream or Reality?
Grafting Made Easy Climate Control Getting it Right
www.maximumyield.com
indOOr gardening expO
2011
lOng beach califOrnia, usa
OctOber 22-23
indoorgardeningexpo.com
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Maximum Yield |  May/June 2011
CONTENTS September/October 2011
FEATURES 14
Flavour Chemistry Of Hydroponic Plants by Dr. Lynette Morgan
14
Medicinal Herbs at Home: Anise by Matt LeBannister
30
Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms
32
The Real Organic Hydroponics
34 37
The Vascular System From Top to Bottom
38
A How to Guide to Grafting
40
Measuring Light Intensity
The Short and Vicious Life of a Fungus Gnat
26
Automated Climate Control the Right Way
by Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé
34 29
22
40
DEPARTMENTS 4
From the Editor
10
MAX Facts
4
Letters to the Editor
12
Product Spotlight
by Luis Bartolo
6
MaximumYield.com
44
Distributors
Growing: Fads and Fallacies
8
Simon Says
46
Coming up in Nov/Dec
46
Do You Know?
by Andrew Taylor
by William Texier
by Dr. Mike Nichols by Philip McIntosh
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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FROM THE EDITOR | JESSICa RaymOND Maximum Yield magazine offers a great jumping off point for sparking up a conversation with your fellow gardening enthusiast. Whether you run into each other at an industry event like the Indoor Gardening Expos or spark up a debate at your local hydro shop, you’ll never be at a loss for words with your monthly growing guru—Maximum Yield—to back you up. This issue in particular covers a wide array of topics including a how to guide to grafting, flavour chemistry of hydroponic crops, automated climate control, controlling and preventing fungus gnats, measuring light intensity and so much more.
Speaking of Indoor Gardening Expos, we invite you all to attend the upcoming 2nd Annual Long Beach Expo, October 23, 2011. You can expect over 275 booths touting the latest innovations and earth friendly grow gear, live demonstrations, education seminars and door prizes throughout the weekend. Visit www. indoorgardeningexpo.com to learn more about this and our 2012 Expo Jessica Raymond, Editor line-up. See you at the show!
editor@maximumyield.com
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR San FranciSco SucceSS via Facebook Thanks for a great show Maximum Yield! We had a great time up there and met a lot of fans and customers. See you all at Long Beach! Nutrifield Thank you for being so great to myself and the EZ-CLONE crew! We love you guys and the show was a blast. Zry Dsp Nice show in San Francisco. Hope to see you all there next year! Grozone Control Inc. Thanks for another great show. The Humboldt Nutrients crew always appreciates what Maximum Yield staff and magazine does for us. See you all in Long Beach 2011. Humboldt Nutrients Thanks again for another amazing show guys! Think it was the best one yet! See ya at Long Beach. Green Planet Wholesale Had a lot of fun at the show. It was awesome and every one was so helpful and just all around fun. Especially the guys from SteadyGROWpro.
Loving out Loud I love your mag. Jose Garza Love your magazine and online info. Sharon Calabrese I would love a subscription to your wonderful magazine. I get it whenever I can but the store runs out fast and I miss issues. I love how up-todate it keeps me with new products. Cody Eurich Maximum Yield has compiled one of the most extensive sources for technical information I have seen. Bob Wheeler I love your magazine I read it all the time.
USA
Ricardo
FREE
Your article on light sources, amount of time and heat was very informative. Julie Brothers Thanks. We love you too! Keeping growing and keep reading maximum yield. We appreciate all your comments.
The secreTs
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yield.com www.maximum
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NEW: FolloW
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David Grunwald Had a great time at the show this year! Thanks for letting us be part of it! Michelle Marie White Thank you for putting on the expo! My wife and I had a great time and it looks like everyone else did as well. Looking forward to next year! Cheers Justin Flowers 4
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity. We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or e-mail us at: editor@maximumyield.com
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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Coming up on the Web upCoMinG events
See, Learn, Discover and Grow at the 2011 Long Beach Indoor Gardening Expo Maximum Yield is proud to be hosting the 2nd Annual Long Beach Indoor Gardening Expo, October 23, 2011. See live demonstrations, learn at our information sessions, discover new techniques and delight in the uniquely diversified products that will help your garden grow. Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for full event details
Got Questions? Get Answers.
Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. E-mail editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the question form on maximumyield.com
LAtest news
Which city in Europe was deemed the Green Capital? Which restaurant in New York City features a fresh rooftop farm? What type of fish is perfect for aquaponics? Learn the answers to these questions and more on maximumyield.com under Latest News.
ConneCt with MAxiMuM YieLd www.maximumyield.com www.facebook.com/MaximumYield www.indoorgardeningexpo.com Twitter.com/Max_Yield
PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Tina Skujins - tina@maximumyield.com Mike Linden - mike@maximumyield.com Jennifer Duong - jennifer@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Tracy Greeno tracy@maximumyield.com
AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply Futchatec Growth Technology Holland Forge House N’ Garden Hydrogarden Hydraspher UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Future Harvest Development Europe Nutriculture UK
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you.
contributors
CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS General Hydroponics Humboldt Wholesale Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds
Dr. Mike Nichols is a retired
Philip McIntosh is a science and
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.
Matt LeBannister developed a
William Texier started hydroponics in
Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the
Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the
Mélissa Léveillé holds a license
university lecturer and an honorary research associate in the College of Sciences at Massey University, New Zealand. He speaks extensively at conferences for international organizations such as the United Nations, and also writes and consults on a range of intensive horticultural topics. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information. president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.
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VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 3 September/October 2011
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.
green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world. technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing. com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.
1985, doing research and development for General Hydroponics in California. In 1995, he and his wife Noucetta Kehdi created General Hydroponics Europe. William is best known for coining the term bioponics, or organic hydroponics. William has 25+ years of hydroponics experience and is considered a hydroponics expert worldwide. in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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SIMON says
I have some yellowing leaves, both on the fringe and in a couple of cases the whole leaf. Two of the leaves look like yellow paint was spilled on them. Can you suggest possible causes? Thanks, Charlie
Ahhh, the murky world of nutrient rapidly, keeping your garden growing in the entirely mobile. This is distinct from the deficiency diagnosis! This issue can be a bane right direction. third possibility. Epsom salts (MgSO4) are to rookie and veteran gardeners alike. Many One of the most common causes of a good idea for a root application or foliar people are far to cavalier about this issue yellowing leaves in gardens is a nitrogen spray. Check with your local grow shop and their solutions end up causing more (N) problem. When deficient, nitrogen or nutrient manufacturer for a product problems either through misdiagnosis or over will cause new growth to be very small suggestion and an application rate and correction. First off check your solution pH and plants will grow slowly. In cases then spot treat a plant to assess the effect. in a water system or test the leachate in a of serious deficiency nitrogen will Iron (Fe) deficiency also causes soilless system.There is no point in trying to cause yellowing of leaves. In the case of yellowing in leaves and can be a mitigate a nutrient problem if your plants’ nitrogen, which is mobile within the common issue as well. Because iron is roots are in a situation where they can’t plant, you will see yellowing on the not incredibly mobile the deficiency access the right mineral balance. older, lower leaves first as nitrogen is will occur in the newer leaves rather With all plant issues than the older leaves “With all plant issues you must visually assess the you must visually assess as compared to a the situation and track magnesium deficiency. It situation and track the movement of the issue on the the movement of the will also start in the leaf plant structures themselves.” issue on the plant margins working its way structures themselves.Your question doesn’t shifted to developing growth. Check to the middle while leaving the venation specify enough to truly diagnose the issue, with your local grow shop or nutrient green. Chelated iron is available in many which is already difficult to solve without manufacturer for a product suggestion products and is absorbable as a foliar visual assessment of the plant in question. and for an application rate. Spot treat a spray. Again, check with your local shop However, I will detail three of the most plant with a nitrogen foliar spray (nitrate or nutrient manufacturer for a product common deficiencies that could be causing nitrogen if possible) and assess the effect. suggestion and an application rate and the problem you are describing. A spot treatment is a technique of testing then spot treat a plant to assess the effect. Before commenting on the three most a product on a small part of your garden It is possible to find some products in likely causes of the problem, I would like to prior to applying it to all plants. If you the market that combine useful options remind all readers that whenever possible, if are unsure of the problem you can try for all three issues in one bottle. Check you determine its worth the cost, sending different spot treatments at the same time with you local hydroponic retailer and away a dried tissue sample to a lab for analysis to try and isolate the issue. ask about their calcium supplement is a great way to check the nutrient balance Another possible culprit is a lack of options. In general these products will within your plant. In fact this could be useful magnesium (Mg). Again this issue will contain nitrate nitrogen, magnesium and even for healthy plants so you have a baseline generally start in lower leaves but will chelated iron within their formula. I can’t of nutrient ratios that you can specifically be more pronounced initially in the leaf emphasize enough what an excellent target in successive crops. For now let’s try margin and along the edges of the lobes. resource your local grow shop can be. and troubleshoot. Remember that taking the Eventually the leaves will turn completely Whenever you have nutrient issues be time to properly diagnosis a crop problem yellow with the exception of the sure to consult their knowledgeable staff. will benefit you in the future because you venation. Remember that it starts from will be able to identify and address the issue the older leaves because magnesium is not Good luck in the garden. 8
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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MAX FaCTS
hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS aND TRIvIa
MAXFACTS hyDROpONIC NEwS, TIpS aND TRIvIa
boosting the PineaPPle inDUstry in the bahamas
Don’t UnDerestimate the Power of herbal teas
The idea that herbal teas may provide a variety of health benefits is not just folklore. A survey of the research literature on the health benefits from drinking three of the most popular herbals in America—chamomile, peppermint and hibiscus tea—found compelling science-based evidence. • Evidence of moderate antimicrobial activity and significant antiplatelet-clumping activity was found in chamomile tea. • PePPermint tea was found to have significant antimicrobial and antiviral activities, strong antioxidant and antitumor actions, and some antiallergenic potential • Based on a human clinical trial, drinking hibiscus tea was found to have lowered blood pressure in a group of pre-hypertensive and mildly hypertensive adults. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
first soilless harVest of black magic table graPes This past summer grower Giannangelo Boccuzzi, who works in Rutigliano (Bari, Italy), harvested the first Black Magic table grape from plants grown without soil. The harvested grape looks good, with colour and shape typical of the cultivar. It has a sugar content of about 15 brix degrees. (Source: www.freshplaza.com)
Bahamas Agricultural and Industrial Corporation (BAIC) has started distribution of 5,000 tissue cultured sweet cayenne pineapple slips throughout the islands in an effort to stimulate the Bahamian pineapple industry. The slips were imported and hardened at Nassau’s Lucayan Tropical hydroponics farm. Presently, sweet cayenne pineapples are imported from Costa Rica and sold in the food stores. By producing them locally, there would be no need to import them. BAIC’s next initiative is the distribution of fruit trees—avocado, mango, sour sop, guava, and Persian lime. Sources: bahamaislandsinfo.com, www.freshplaza.com
e. coli an Unlikely contaminant of Plant VascUlar systems Scientists have helped confirm that Escherichia coli is not likely to contaminate the internal vascular structure of field-grown leafy greens. There was no evidence that E. coli had become “internalized” in leaves or shoots of baby spinach plants 28 days after the plants had germinated and grown in pasteurized soil. (Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
tomato enDeaVoUr rZ sets ets a new benchmark in the h heateD eateD eate D trUss segment
The heated greenhouse tomato in Europe has seen steady growth in the large truss segment according to Phil Ritchie, protected cropping advisor for Rijk Zwaan Australia. Australians growers have been working hard to find tomato varieties that can perform consistently with the extreme and variable Australian climate. Rijk Zwaan has introduced an exciting new truss tomato variety called Endeavour RZ into the Australian market that has exceptional setting ability and sufficient plant strength to maintain consistent fruit size through the season. It is suitable for winter and summer plantings. Trial results from all over Australia and New Zealand show a high standard of fruit quality and truss shape. (Sources: www.hydroponics.com.au, www.rijkzwaan.com.au)
fiji exPorts fooD bUt can’t feeD itself? Fiji has a uniquely tropical climate that enables the commercial growing of a wide variety of hydroponics and other local agricultural products. Fiji’s location is also ideally advantageous for exports of fresh produce due to the prolific seasonality of supply when compared to other producer countries. Additionally, Fiji is also a relatively disease-free country with preferential trade and bilateral quarantine agreements in a number of major markets. However, despite Fiji’s huge annual agricultural output, the economy is not self-sufficient in food production. Producers are attempting to introduce sustainable and productive concepts that may bolster general efforts toward that of environmentally-friendly self-sufficiency in the Fiji Islands. Developments in this field could be very lucrative for Fiji’s economy, whereby Fiji’s great potential for agro-processing and hydroponics growth lies in the production and export of high value, specialized produce to compatible niche markets. This allows producers to take advantage of Fiji’s natural climate, off-season location and preferential trade agreements, while also minimizing the actual distance from major markets. (Source: www.joesfarmproduce.com)
close lose to home hyDroPonically cUltiVateD a D fresh ProDUce ate Hydroscape (Pacific) Limited is a major contributor to the local and international food industry, as one of the largest retailers and distributors of tropical farm fresh produce in the Southwestern Pacific region. Hydroscape sources hydroponically grown farm fresh produce to one of its parent companies Joe’s Farm Supplies, which then exports this quality produce to big offshore market players in Australia and New Zealand. Some of their greater successes include the installation and implementation of a fully-functional hydroponics system on Laucala Island. Additionally, they have also seen to the successful development of a fully-fledged hydroponics system at City Farm Limited. (Source: www.joesfarmproduce.com)
a taste of sUstainable lettUce in the heart of berlin The Über Lebenskunst Festival that took place in August in Haus Der Kulturen der Welt in the heart of Berlin highlighted sustainability with a floating lettuce art project titled Vorratskamer. The lettuce was grown with the Dry Hydroponic system, an innovation by Viscon and Cultivation systems. (Source: www.freshplaza.com)
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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PRODUCT SpOTLIGhT
yOUR GUIDE TO ThIS ISSUE’S
HOTTEST ITEMS ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.
large cone eight bag kit The Boldtbags Large Cone Eight Bag Kit makes filtration fast and efficient with the 220, 190, 160, 120, 90, 73, 45 and 25 micron bags. The micron screen continues up the bag and attaches to a metal ring at the top. The bag is tapered from top to bottom creating optimum downward flow, as well as through the sides of the bag. The Large Cone can be used with a Boldtbags Suspension kit for bucketless filtration. Visit your favourite hydroponics shop for more information.
humboldt nutrients ginormous We all want to harvest giant flowers and enormous fruits. Humboldt Nutrients Ginormous is here to help you accomplish that goal. This super bloom booster is made with macro- and micronutrients, trace elements and sugars. Crops grown with Ginormous have higher brix levels, larger flowers and stronger aromas. Ginormous is 100 per cent biodegradable and contains no harmful hormones or synthetic chelates. Ginormous makes the most demanding gardeners ecstatic at harvest time and gives first-timers professional results. Visit your local hydro shop to learn more.
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
sun system® blazer reflector Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is excited to announce the arrival of the Blazer Reflector, the latest addition to the Sun System® reflector line. Completely sealed for maximum air-cooling, 95 per cent reflective European aluminium interior and an EZ-Breeze® aerodynamic junction box are only a few of the many excellent features Blazer has to offer. This state-of-the-art air-cooled reflector raises the bar for output and uniformity. An industry leader in its class, Blazer is a force to be reckoned with. Unmatched in output, uniformity and performance, you can’t afford not to have this reflector in your grow room. Your plants will thank you. Visit an authorized Sunlight Supply retailer for more information.
small cone three bag kit The Boldtbags Small Cone Three Bag Kit makes filtration quick and efficient with the 220, 73 and 25 micron bags. The micron screen continues up the bag and attaches to a metal ring at the top. The bag is tapered from top to bottom creating optimum downward flow, as well as through the sides of the bag. The Small Cone can be used with a Boldtbags Suspension kit for bucketless filtration. Visit an indoor gardening shop near you for more information.
humboldt nutrients royal flush A quality crop needs an effective flush to reach its full potential. Flushing removes heavy elements and salts, allowing for more aromatic and flavourful fruits and flowers. Humboldt Nutrients Royal Flush supercharges the flushing process, binding together undesirable salts and heavy minerals. Royal Flush then strips these larger particles out of your plant, leaving behind sugars and strong flavours. Your plant is composed of water, sugars and salts. If you flush out the salts and dry out the water, you’re left with delicious and aromatic sugars, and sugars rule the natural world. Try Humboldt Nutrients Royal Flush today and experience the difference between a flush and a Royal Flush with a clean, sweet finish. Ask for Royal Flush at your local hydro shop today.
small wash bag The Boldtbags Small Wash Bag is new and improved with a snap buckle closure to keep the zipper locked in place. It is made of Swiss grade quality mesh with reinforced stitching at the seams and a military grade zipper and buckle. The mesh screen has been measured to the absolute micron and heat stamped to prevent fluctuation. Boldtbags Small Wash Bag fits both mini and standard washing machines. The Boldtbags Small Wash Bag comes with a two year warranty. Visit your favourite indoor gardening shop for more information.
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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flavour chemistry of hydroponic plants by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Discover ways to naturally boost the flavours in your crops. A poorly flavoured fruit or vegetable is disappointing. We are programmed to seek out flavour; the right balance of sugar to acid, distinctive tastes and good levels of volatiles all make eating pleasurable. However, few understand just how complex the flavour chemistry of the crops we grow really is. Currently over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may contribute to the overall flavour experience have been identified in tomato fruit alone, with potentially many more as yet undiscovered. In strawberries the compounds ethyl butanoate, furaneol and ethyl hexanoate all contribute to the distinctive strawberry flavour of the fruit, while sugars and acids also contribute to the overall taste experience. The fact that we can taste a wide range of flavours, detect many volatile compounds even at low rates and form an opinion about what tastes good, means flavour is something of interest to many growers.
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
Flavour Chemistry by Crop Tomatoes
Tomatoes are the hydroponic crop that receives the most complaints and compliments about flavour intensity. The organoleptic (taste or flavour) properties of tomato fruits are determined largely by the amount of solids, particularly sugars and organic acids and the volatile composition. In tomatoes, the naturally occurring volatile compounds geranylacetone, 2-3-methylbutane, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one are
Chili peppers are grown for both their heat and distinctive flavour profile.
Maximum Yield  | September/October 2011
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Flavor Chemistry oF hydroponiC plants
“hydroponic ydroponic techniques can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of hot peppers.�
Sweet peppers and chilies are a passion among many hydroponic growers and flavour is all important with these crops.
all correlated with tomato flavour, however, hundreds more also contribute to that distinctive tomato taste. A number of factors influence fruit flavour: plant genetics, light levels, temperature, water stress, raised salinity, fertilizer additions and leaf area (as influenced by training system used). Many of these factors can be influenced by growers to increase the flavour of tomato fruit. Selection of different cultivars plays a major role when looking to improve overall fruit flavour with many growers now growing high flavour lines, although even these can be poorly flavoured if not grown correctly. The simplest way of increasing the flavour constituents of hydroponic tomato fruit is to increase the concentration (or EC) of the nutrient solution, to produce fruits with a higher percentage dry matter, sugar and acid, and consequently, better taste and firmness. This has been found to
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
be the case with large fruited and cherry tomatoes. Both sugars and acidity levels increased in the cherry cultivar Gardeners Delight with fruit grown at an EC of 10 mScm-1 as compared to 2.5 mScm-1. Other studies have reported that the dry matter content, sodium content and acidity of fruit grown at an EC of 8.0 mScm-1 was greater than fruit grown at 3 mScm-1. An obstacle to improving the composition of tomato fruit via increased solution conductivity is the well-documented relationship between yield and the fruit dry matter content. Using cultivation techniques such as increasing the nutrient conductivity to increase dry matter content of the fruit also reduces the rate of water accumulation and thus cell enlargement, so that a loss in yield is almost inevitable. While commercial operations may not be willing to sacrifice yield for higher solids and flavour in their fruit, smaller growers are often keen to try this technique and grow something that just can’t be purchased at the grocery store.
peppers eppers and chillies
Sweet peppers and chillies are a passion among many small hydroponic growers for their distinctive flavour profile and the varying degrees of heat the plants are capable of producing. The heat producing or burning compound contained in chilli peppers is capsaicin, which was first isolated from plant tissue in 1877. The three main capsaicinoids detected in most chilli fruit are capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin and nordihydrocapsaicin. Capsaicin has no flavour or odour; the ability to sense it depends entirely on the physiological action of the compound (i.e., burning) on the tongue. Underlying the heat of peppers are also some rather delicate flavours, which mostly arise from several aromatic compounds that make up the distinctive flavour of capsicum fruit. It is the outer fruit wall where most of the flavour compounds are located and these seem to be associated with the colour or pigment levels in the fruit. There are different compounds that impart distinctive flavour profiles in the
many species of chilli fruit. Jalapeno flavour is attributed to the compound 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, for example, and this is distributed unevenly throughout the pepper pod. The hydroponic production of sweet bell peppers and chilli peppers is similar; however, there are techniques that can be used to boost the pungency and flavour of the hot types that are best not used for growing a succulent, mild, bell pepper. Chilli pepper fruit, with their pungent compounds, respond well to the applica application of controlled stress. Any factor that puts stress on the plant, such as high EC, lack of moisture and high light and temperature, increases the concentration of the heat-producing compounds in the fruit and at the same time reduces fresh weight or water content. This is great for those who are aiming to grow the hottest chilli possible, but should be used with caution as many chilli cultivars are already genetically inclined to be scorch scorching and intensifying these may not always be required. EC levels as high as 8.0 mScm-1 have been applied to chillies to boost pungency levels with good results, however, different chilli cultivars will respond differently to increases in EC and growers should determine for themselves which EC level gives the biggest kick in favourthe fruit. Ideally when using a higher EC to favour ably increase the pungency of chillies, it is best to do this by increasing only the macronutrients in the solution (N, P, K, S and Ca) and maintain the trace elements (Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu and Mo) at normal EC strength levels.
Onion bulb concentration of sulphur can be as high as one per cent on a dry weight basis.
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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Flavor Chemistry of Hydroponic Plants
Hydroponic wasabi contains mixtures of volatile compounds, such as isothiocyanates, which gives that distinctive pungency and flavour.
Onions, garlic, shallots and chives
Bulb onions have a strong pungent flavour and aroma originating from the presence of a range of organosulphur compounds. Onions actually accumulate large quantities of sulphur and bulb concentrations of sulphur have been reported to be in excess of one per cent on a dry weight basis.
Much of the sulphur taken up by onions is partitioned into organosulphur compounds as part of the flavour biosynthetic pathway. Onion pungency is known to increase in response to increased sulphur fertility, but in addition to this, the form of nitrogen in hydroponic solutions is also shown to affect onion flavour. In hydroponic onion trials it has been found that sulphate and nitrogen availability in the nutrient solution in-
"Lower EC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavor quality..."
Succulent herbs such as mint prefer moderate temperatures and summer shading for the best flavour quality.
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Maximum Yield |  September/October 2011
teracted to influence onion flavour compounds and can thus be used to manipulate onion compositional quality. Certain flavour compounds in onions have been shown to increase linearly with increasing nitrogen levels in hydroponic trials from 20 to 140 milligrams/litre nitrogen. Garlic also responds in a similar way to increasing sulphur and nitrogen concentrations in the nutrient solution when grown hydroponically. Alliin is the specific flavour and quality trait related to the health value of garlic, which has been shown to increase with higher levels of sulphur and nitrogen in many commercial garlic cultivars. Such manipulation of nitrogen and sulphur in hydroponic nutrient solutions could not only produce higher flavoured and more pungent garlic, but also bulbs with an improved health value.
Flavour in onions can be boosted with the addition of sulphur in the nutrient solution.
Herbs
Fresh herbs are grown specifically for their flavour compounds and aromatics, some of which are very concentrated under certain growing conditions. Some very pungent condiment herbs such as wasabi or horseradish contain mixtures of volatile compounds such as isothiocyanates that give them their distinctive flavour and heat. There is some evidence that these types of pungent compounds respond to increased sulphur in the nutrient solution.
The flavour of brassicas like cabbage originates from sulphur-containing compounds called ‘glucosinolates.’
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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Flavor Chemistry oF hydroponiC plants
Strawberry flavour is dependant on the balance between sugars, acids and a range of volatile compounds.
Other herbs such as basil have been more widely studied and the total amount of essential oil is known to significantly increase with light levels. The main flavour compounds in basil leaves are 1,8 cineole, linalool and eugenol, all of which respond to higher light by increasing the flavour intensity of the foliage. One study found that taste test panellists could discern the differences between organically- and greenhousegrown basil, yet no preferences were shown. Basil is an aromatic herb with a high percentage of essential oils in the foliage. This oil contained within the leaf tissue is also prone to oxidation and its pungency is easily lost. If the herb is grown in conditions that are too cool or the foliage is damaged, there will be a loss in flavour and aroma.
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
"Lower eC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavour quality in these types of herbs." While basil oil content can be increased with moderate plant stress, high light and increased EC, this is usually not advisable for hydroponic crops grown to be consumed fresh as it tends to reduce leaf size and quality and it is possible for basil to become overly strong. Basil destined for processing or drying, however, can benefit from being grown hard to increase the leaf ’s fresh weight but increase the essential oil content. Soft, cool season herbs such as parsley and mint should be grown differently to the more woody aromatic herbs such as rosemary, oregano and thyme for maximum flavour and quality. Parsley can become overly strong with bitter and unpleasant overtones in flavour if grown with high light, temperatures and EC. Both mint and parsley can
also develop tough and stringy foliage and stems, which reduces their eating quality, even though flavour may be more intense. Lower EC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavour quality in these types of herbs. The perennial herbs—many of which are referred to as the Mediterranean herbs—originated in hot, dry climates. These include thyme, oregano, rosemary and they respond well to being grown hard with a certain degree of stress. Under conditions of high light, reduced moisture, high EC and warm temperatures, these types of herbs respond by concentrating the levels of essential oils and aromatic compounds in the foliage. Winter nutrient solutions for these woody herbs are best manipulated to increase the level of potassium relative to nitrogen and include some extra magnesium to maintain flavour quality.
Brassicas – watercress, arugula, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and others
The characteristic flavour of brassica crops originates from sulphurcontaining compounds called Glucosinolates that yield breakdown products giving the familiar flavour and aroma, from distinctive cabbagey to peppery and pungent in watercress to sharp and nutty in arugula. Much of the distinctive flavours are linked to sulphur and this element can be manipulated in hydroponic solutions to improve the taste of certain brassica crops. Production method alone is not enough to guarantee good flavour quality in any plant. Just because a crop was hydroponically or organically grown doesn’t necessarily mean it’s going to taste any better than a conventionally grown crop. However, hydroponic methods, with the degree of control over nutritional and other factors that can be achieved, mean the grower has more tools to use when it comes to maximizing the taste experience. MY Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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The Short & Vicious Life of a
Fungus Gnat
Be prepared. Cool spring weather is the perfect time for these infectious killers to invade your indoor garden. Fungus gnats can invade any garden at any time. Although they are typically harmless to healthy plants, a healthy gar garden is not always immune. Even experienced gardeners can be puzzled by the symptoms of fungus gnats. The larvae of these pests can destroy a garden, working out of sight as they chew the plant roots and drain the sap. Even the adults—tiny flies that hang around the bottom of the plant and run across the surface of the grow medium—look harmless. Usually growers only see a few tiny flies, and sometimes the flies lay their eggs near the plant’s roots and escape unnoticed by the gardener. This hidden activity by fungus gnat larvae separates gnats from top growth, attacking insects like thrips or spidermites. Even careful examination of the root zone may miss these tiny larvae; the grower would see only damaged and discoloured roots. Meanwhile, the baby bugs are: 1. Chewing and damaging root tissue, interfering with nutrient and water uptake. 2. Sucking sap from roots that was necessary for the needs of the plant. 3. Infecting the damaged roots with fungus disease. This last activity is the reason these insects got their name. They carry disease spores on their bodies that can infect the damaged roots easily, creating more problems for the grower. New fungus gnat problems in a garden usually occur in autumn (as cooler weather forces insects indoors) or spring (when over-wintering eggs outdoors hatch and the flies find their way into the grow room). Fungus gnat problems can happen anytime of the year, indicating that an infected 22
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plant somewhere in the garden or nearby (houseplants or outdoors near the indoor garden) is serving as a continual source of these pests. Often the problem is traced to stock plants, which are usually neglected, old and root bound— and good riddance because of the severe damage these pests can inflict on a garden, store staff and growers must be aware of how to identify and handle them. Bright yellow leaves, normally shaped, no wrinkles or spots and very slow growth are strong clues to their presence in the garden. Have growers search for tiny flies—like fruit flies—hovering near the base of the plant or on the grow medium. Once spotted, treatment
of all plants must be immediate, not just the ones that look sick. The larvae can already be present and start to damage plants that still look healthy, and untreated larvae turn into more flies to re-infect the garden. Plants recovering from fungus gnat problems still face the risk of disease problems. Remember that these bugs can spread fungus spores to damaged roots. As a precaution, these plants should be given a treatment with a fungicide a day or two after pesticide application. A root drench is more effective than spraying the top growth. Follow a similar procedure to your use of pesticides, drenching the entire root zone with fungicide solution, with irrigation pumps off for at least several hours. Left over fungicide in the root zone will not interfere with nutrients, so it’s not necessary to drain and replace the fertilizer mix. Yellow sticky cards are very useful as an early warning system for these flying pests, since the gnats are often attracted to the bright yellow surface. Soon, new gangs of these bugs will be pulling home invasions on our gardeners as the milder weather will allow gnat eggs to hatch outdoors. Fortunately, treating this pest is very straightforward. Potting soil insecticide or fungus gnat powders will eliminate fungus gnats from the root zone, usually with a single application of pesticide. These products are very gentle on the plant, making them useful for all grow mediums. I do not recommend stronger, outdoor pesticides since these can cause major damage or death to an indoor garden. Stick with safe, effective products that allow plants to recover quickly. Using these products with potting soil plants is very simple: just sprinkle the powder on to the soil and water tin. MY
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AutomAted ClimAte Control the right WAy Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé
Step into the age of automation. Whether it is a simple pastime or your source of income, indoor gardening requires time and effort in order to achieve worthwhile results. In an enclosed environment in which one hopes to maintain ideal growing conditions at all times, it becomes necessary to manually control the climate; this requires supervision, and therefore, a nearly constant presence in the garden. It is for this reason that automation can be helpful. In addition to reducing the number and frequency of visits to the garden, automated control considerably reduces your work time, and allows you greater flexibility; and the benefits don’t stop there. Automating your garden creates much more stable conditions, accurately meeting plant’s needs and allowing for considerable energy savings. Timers: the first step towards automation A timer activates or deactivates a device based on time, more specifically, based on the time of day or on cycles. Timers are particularly efficient for setting irrigation and lighting cycles, which are usually constant and minimally influenced by other garden conditions. 26
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There are even multi-timers available on the market that are capable of simultaneously coordinating irrigation, lighting and lamp cooling cycles and offer protection for equipment and plants. Timers are not recommended for controlling equipment used to maintain climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, CO2 concentration).The purpose of devices used for heating, humidification, CO2 enrichment, etc., is to regulate the climate according to specific levels (e.g.: 24°C, 50 per cent relative humidity, 1,200 ppm of CO2). A timer, used for this kind of device, is undependable and does not take into account existing garden conditions; the chances of establishing a climate that is stable and adapted to plant needs are, as it were, nil. Fortunately, certain devices have been designed specifically for climate control. Equipped with a sensor that measures ambient conditions, the controller activates or deactivates a climate-correcting device according to levels set by the user. The given setting is generally accompanied by a differential in order to avoid continuous starting and stopping of the climate-correcting device in a short lapse of time. Take for example a controller connected to a CO2 generator set to 1,200 parts per million (ppm), with differentials high and low set at 200 ppm. The sensor regularly measures the concentration of CO2 in the garden. When the concentration drops below 1,000 ppm, the controller activates the CO2 generator. When the concentration exceeds 1,400 ppm, the CO2 generator is stopped by the controller. Differential example for CO2 concentration control This kind of control is very efficient at maintaining stable and precise garden conditions. There are at least three categories of controllers: specific, integrated and coordinated modulars.
“Whether you need to heat, cool, humidify, dehumidify or enrich the environment with CO2, the controller prioritizes its actions according to a logical sequence, which takes into account all parameters being controlled.�
The specific controller The specific controller manages a single climate parameter and a single device at a time. A specific temperature controller, or thermostat, can control either a heater or an air-conditioner, but not both.The same goes for all other parameters.This type of controller, though inexpensive, yields results that are proportionate to the invested sum. Thinking they are saving money, some people choose to manage several climatic parameters by means of specific controllers. This requires as many specific controllers as there are devices to control. Often disadvantageous on a financial level, such a choice is also unwise on a management level. It is very difficult to coco ordinate the levels and differentials of the various devices to avoid opposite actions. For example, if one were using a thermostat to cool and another to heat, it would be necessary to set the levels and the differentials to sufficiently different temperatures to prevent the two devices from running at the same time. And even then, nothing is guaranteed, seeing as other factors, such as the calibration of sensors, can complicate things. In some situations, it is even impossible to avoid opposite actions. This is the case when cooling the garden using an air exhaust fan, and enriching CO2 levels with the help of a bottle or a generator, where each device is being controlled by a separate controller. Each controller starts up the device under its control as needed, regardless of whether the other device is functioning at the same time. It is, therefore, very likely that the exhaust fan will activate at the same time as the CO2 generator, which will lead to the loss of CO2 to the outside environment. What a waste! Specific controllers are better than nothing, but fortunately, more sophisticated controllers exist. Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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automated Climate Control the right way
The integrated controller Why use several controllers “An informative decision when one will suffice in assuring optimal rests first on a precise management of your evaluation of your needs garden’s climate? and priorities, which are Multifunctional, the integrated controller established according to allows for the manthe type of garden in quesagement of several tion as well as the species climatic parameters at once.Whether you of plants being cultivated.” need to heat, cool, humidify, dehumidify or enrich the environment with CO2, the controller prioritizes its actions according to a logical sequence, which takes into account all parameters being controlled. Opposite or incompatible actions are therefore 100 per cent avoided without any effort from the user. In addition, the stable and precise climatic conditions obtained thanks to this type of control offer plants a narrow comfort zone that better meets their needs. On a financial level, the purchase of just one integrated controller is often more advantageous than the purchase of several specific controllers.
Coordinated modular controllers - the height of automation What if we were able to gradually equip ourselves with specific controllers capable of intercommunicating? In the near future, coordinated modular controllers will be able to do even better than that. Each individual coordinated modular controller will be able to manage one climatic parameter, such as temperature, humidity or CO2. As opposed to a specific controller, a modular controller will be able to manage several aspects of a single parameter; in the case of a modular temperature controller, this will mean heating, cooling and venting control with the use of a single controller. Together, these controllers will be able to exchange information, and as such, intelligently manage several climate parameters at once. It will therefore become possible to gradually build a system that is both complete and intelligent. Choosing the right controller Faced with the range of control devices available on the market, it is a challenge to decide on one particular model that would be efficient. An informative decision rests first on a precise evaluation of your needs and priorities, which are established according to the type of garden in question as well as the species of plants being cultivated. Here are a few key questions to help guide your decision: • Which climatic parameters do I wish to control in my garden? The temperature? The humidity? The CO2 concentration? A combination of two or three of these parameters? • Which devices will be used to regulate the climate and control air-conditioning, heat, humidity, dehumidification, CO2 generation, etc.)? • Do I want to equip myself gradually or proceed directly to purchasing a complete controller? What’s my budget?
Integrated contollers offer stable and precise climatic conditions to better meet plants’ needs.
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Once these questions have been answered, the type of controller required is usually obvious. Automated climate control in an indoor garden calls for a bit of time and money at first, but the gains will be worth it. Plants that are cultivated in an environment that is stable and ideal for growth will thank you with quality and abundant yields. And that’s not even counting the hours of work you’ll save and be able to dedicate to your life outside your garden. Will you step into the age of automation? MY
Medicinal Herbs at H oMe:
Anise
by Matt LeBannister
How Herbs erbs can Help you acHieve H ealtH
The selling of over-the-counter drugs is a billion dollar inin dustry. Relief from small ailments can be easily obtained the natural way if one decides to grow some medicinal herbs at home. Anise is the herb up for discussion this issue. It can be found as flavouring in different liquors such as Jägermeister, Ouzo and the infamous Absinthe. Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame. Anise has a pleasant taste similar to fennel or liquorice and is part of the parsley family. The parts of the anise plant that are harvested for medicinal purposes are the seeds and can be used on their own or pressed for the anise seed oil. The oil can be applied topically. It is a mild antiparasitic and can be used to treat lice and scabies. Anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. To do this the anise must be ingested. The seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried anise seeds will be enough for one cup of tea. The consumption of anise seed tea can also be beneficial for women experiencing menstrual cramps. A couple cups a day can keep menstrual pain at bay. Anise can be grown easily when its few needs are meet. It requires a sunny place to grow and flower. T5 fluorescent bulbs or a 400 watt HID would be ideal, but a very sunny windowsill will do. Soil must be rich in nutrients and drained well. It is the anise seeds that one is after. When grown indoors we must take The anise seed tea can also be good for chest coughs. Anise on the role of “mother nature” and pollinate the anise plants is known to break down phlegm and mucus that builds up ourselves. Once flowers open, one should use a painter’s brush in our throats and lungs when we get a chest cold or cough. and dab all the flowers. This should spread the pollen and result Another great way to treat this problem is to boil the anise in pollination. In six to 10 weeks the fruit or seeds will be maseeds in water as if making tea. Instead of drinking the ture and ready for harvest and drying. water, place your head over the steam and breathe in the Anise is an extraordinary plant that can benefit us greatly. vapours. A towel can be placed over one’s head to trap even Whether used for flavouring our desserts, foods and liquors, or more of the vapour. This can be done for 10 to 15 minutes curing our tummyaches, anise is a part of human medicinal hisas often as needed. tory and most likely will be for some time to come. MY
“anise is most commonly used to treat digestive problems. to do this the anise must be ingested. the seeds can be boiled and made into a very delicious tea; one teaspoon of dried anise seeds will be enough for one cup of tea.”
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NUTRIENT
by Andrew taylor
Deficiency Symptoms
Monitor plants closely for symptoms of nutrient deficiency. These symptoms can provide a valuable forewarning of serious problems within the growing system. Be aware that there are many factors that cause nutrient deficiency symptoms in a plant. The nutrient itself may not be the cause. Deficiency symptoms are grouped into several categories:
axillary bud
midrib
petiole
vein
apex (or tip)
left margin
Fig 2 Simplified illustration of external leaf structure.
3.
Stunting of growth: As all essential nutrients are simultaneously required for healthy growth, this symptom can be attributed to a deficiency in any one or more of them.
Purple/red discolouration: This often occurs on stems or along leaf petioles, veins or margins. It occurs due to abnormal levels of anthocyanin that accumulates when plants are stressed. These symptoms can also be caused by physical stresses such as cold, drought and disease.
2.
4.
1.
Chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis: Chlorosis can result in the whole plant or leaf turning light green or yellow. It can also be more localised. For example, yellowing of the veins themselves or between the veins (interveinal chlorosis). Chlorosis occurs due to plants being deficient in elements required for photosynthesis or chlorophyll production.
purple petiole
interveinal chlorsis
chlorosis of veins
nectrotic spot
tip burn chlorosis of margin
Fig 1 Some common leaf abnormalities resulting from nutrient deficiencies.
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Necrosis: Generally happens in the later stages of deficiency where the affected plant part becomes stressed to the point that it becomes brown and dies.
5.
Other: Further symptoms include: • poor quality (or few) buds, flowers or fruit • poor root development • distorted leaves (i.e., cupped or twisted)
Old or young growth A key indicator for identifying nutrient deficiency is whether the symptoms are occurring in older growth, younger growth or both. Mobile elements are able to move out of older leaves and into younger plant parts when a deficiency is present. Hence the symptoms usually
occur first in the older (usually lower) leaves. Mobile elements include N, P, K and Mg (chart one). In contrast, immobile nutrients are not able to move quickly from one plant part to another. Therefore, deficiency symptoms are initially most obvious in younger growth (usually higher up the plant). Immobile nutrients include Ca, S, Fe, Cu, Mn, Zn and B (chart one). WHAT CAUSES DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS? The appearance of foliar deficiency symptoms often causes inexperienced growers to conclude that the nutrient solution is deficient in a particular element. However, if a ‘complete’ nutrient formulation is being used, check the following before settling on this conclusion: • insufficient EC or feed frequency • in recirculating hydroponic systems, the nutrient is discarded too infrequently • inappropriate nutrient pH (causes certain nutrient elements to become unavailable for uptake) • excessive humidity (hinders the distribution of nutrient throughout the plant) • signs of pests or diseases (their presence can produce symptoms that are similar in appearance to nutrient deficiency symptoms)
CHART 1
Diagnostic Flow-Chart For Common Nutrient Deficiency Symptons Deficiency Symptoms Old Leaves Affected
Young Leaves Affected
Terminal buds remain alive but chlorotic (ie. yellow) or wilted without necrotic (i.e. dead) spots
Terminal buds die. Distortion & necrosis (ie. dying of young leaves.
- Effects are mostly generalised over whole plant - Lower leaves dry up and die
Effects mostly localised: - Mottling (ie. blotches) or cholosis - Lower leaves do not dru up but become mottled or chlorotic - Leaf margins cupped or tucked
Boron (B)
Calcium (Ca)
- Young leaves light green at bases, die back from base - Twisted leaves
Young leaves hooked then die back at tipes & margins
Phosphorus (P) - Dark green ffoliage; Red/purple colors appear - Lower leaves yellow/drying to dark green - Stalks become short & slender
Nitrogen (N) - Light green foliage - Lower leaves yellow/drying/brown - Stalks become short & slender
Zinc (Zn)
Copper (Cu) - Young leaves wilted, without cholorosis - Weak stem tip
- Young leaves not wilted - Chlorosis
- Nercrotic spots (large & general) eventually involving veins - Thick leaves - Short stalks
Magnesium (Mg)
Manganese (Mn)
- Mottling or chlorosis with yellow around margins & interveinal chlorosis - Necrotic brown spots
No necrotic spots
- Small nercotic spots - Veins remain green
Potassium (K)
- Mottled or chlorotic dull grey-green leaves - Small necrotic spots between veins or near leaf tips & margins - Slender stalks
NOTES
Iron (Fe)
Sulfur (S)
Veins remain green
Veins become chlorotic
Deficiency symptoms observed under field conditions often appear different than ideal text book examples. Diagnosis is often difficult even to the most experienced eyes. Some elements produce similar symptoms and several deficiencies can occur at the same time. Symptoms can also be easily confused with those caused by pests, diseases, under watering and genetic abnormalities. Early detection is important because deficiency symptoms are often more unique and easier to distinguish in the early stages. Yield loss can also be potentially avoided. Early detection also prompts the grower to check for other possible causes such as excessive humidity and poor EC and pH control. MY Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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The Real Organic Hydroponics Is organic hydroponics but a dream? Organic hydroponics. This, the ultimate combination of control (hydroponics) and tasty, earth-friendly gardening practices (organics), is but a dream for many gardeners. It offers the ideal solution and could be the ultimate growing system. There has been much trial and error in the process and a suitable formulae has not yet been found that is wholly organic whilst remaining reliable and workable in a hydroponic environment. So is organic hydroponics possible? So far the answer is uncertain. Organic substances by their very nature need to be alive and have the ability to combine with other organic elements in order to function at their best. Soil microbiology and the organic elements combine together in a living explosion of decomposition, magically working together to create new life forms. Water alone cannot provide this function. There needs to be a basis for the catalyst to happen in order to create the active micro life necessary for organic plant health and growth. Organic substances left in water are not able to be stabilized, nor are they able to catalyse with each other. After a time they will deteriorate and even become stagnant and harmful to the plant. 32
Maximum Yield   |  September/October 2011
by Luis Bartolo Experimenters have also tried using active compost teas and regular organic fertilizers in reservoir tanks combined with air pumps and bubblers in an attempt to keep the mixture active. Used with other soilless mediums such as coco or pebbles this can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is not only defeating the object of automation, but also costing more money in wasted fertilizer. It’s also not eco-friendly, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place. Another system of so-called organic hydroponics includes having pots of soil suspended in a flood and drain or NFT system. The top layer of the pot contains soil or a compost mix with rocks or gravel at the bottom to prevent the medium leaching into the water. But the reservoir tank will only be able to contain water with possibly the addition of organic bio-stimulants. The actual feeding of the organic nutrients would still have to be done from the top by hand. Essentially this method would just function as a sophisticated watering system and is likely as far into organic hydroponics as we are going to get for now.
However, this example is not soilless or automated and, therefore, not hydroponic in the traditional sense. So how are we to progress and what methods from either system can we utilize for the best results? Is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional or usable? This is a matter of much interest and research within our industry and research and development continues in this direction. Meanwhile, certain bio-stimulants and energy boosters are available that can be used in standard hydroponic systems. These remain stable and usable in water and do not interfere with the EC measurements in any way. Organic certified substances such as those based on fulvic and humate acids and certain aminos can be used where they function incredibly well and in many cases perform better than their chemical
“we have established the scientific facts that organic hydroponics isn't yet possible... [but] is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional?� counterparts. Still this does not provide us with a complete solution. One of the main reasons for organic cultivation is the quality and taste of the end product; bio-stimulants do improve the overall health of the plant when used in this way and serve as an ecologically-sound alternative to an otherwise predominantly chemical system.
RESERvOIR TANkS Soilless mediums such as coco or pebbles can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is a costly and potentially environmentally harmful solution, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place.
Another way of bringing your hydroponic crops closer to organic and also improving the flavour of the end product is through the use of foliar applications. Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant. This also enhances chlorophyll content and supplies trace elements of organic origin. Some composting preparations such as worm cast tea can also be used in this way. The results are immediate and hugely beneficial. Foliar applications of fish emulsion on plants grown hydroponically show the same improved grow rates as their conventional sisters in a pot or the earth. Similarly seaweed applications serve as a rescue remedy to poor or sick plants just as they would in the soil. So it can be said that certain elements of organics can be incorporated into hydroponics. The solution is not perfect but it is the best we have for now. One thing is for sure we have to continue our quest to find the perfect combination, for us, our society and Mother Earth. MY
A LIvING ExPLOSION OF DECOMPOSITION Organic substances suspended in water are unable to stabilise and, over time, will deteriorate, becoming harmful to the plants.
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by William Texier
GrowinG Fads and Fallacies
When useful products are used improperly they can be detrimental to your garden. Read on to discover the most common fads and fallacies. There are numerous fads circulating in the home grower world that are deeply rooted in people’s mind. These fads are often propagated on Internet forums. Technical books on hydroponics are hard to read for most people without previous knowledge in chemistry and plant physiology. Many books on the subject of indoor growing cover your
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choices of system, lighting, ventilation, etc. Some of those books are well written and thorough but tend to be missing a detailed section on proper hydroponics practices. Some Internet forums cannot be trusted since manufacturers may use them to promote their products by posing as simple users, ranting and raving on how this product is miraculous.
Others are good faith users that can, by like of experience, draw the wrong conclusions and propagate them; or it could be something observed once and made as a rule without repetitive testing to verify what was observed. As a result, products are used improperly, causing damage when they could have been potentially useful. I will try to review some of them below.
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)
Many companies sell H2O2 with the claim of miraculous effects, from improving the oxygen level in the nutrient solution to killing all pathogens on site. They often use anthropomorphic images such as: “the oxygen ion search for the bad guy.” Of course, there is some truth behind all that, but the presentation is rather misleading. When H2O2 is dissolved in water, it rapidly loses an oxygen atom that becomes a free radical. As you probably know, free radicals are extremely reactive oxygen ions. They have an electric charge and they attach themselves very easily to any other particle with an opposite charge. “Attach” in this case means oxidize, or kill. It is this same process that transforms iron into rust. All microorganisms, as well as every living cell, have electrical activity, and thus attract a free oxygen ion...and die! The free radical does not have a selection mechanism that makes it target the bad guys. It will indiscriminately oxidize spores and pathogens, but also root cells. At the same time that it is cleaning the nutrient solution, it is weakening the plant. In fact, the quantity that you can introduce in the nutrient solution without killing your plant is so small that it is not enough to completely free the solution from pathogens. It is true that their population will be reduced, but they will rapidly come back in even greater numbers to attack the weakened plants. As a general principle, doing something that weakens your plants when they are already attacked by pathogens does not strike me as the brightest of ideas. The claim of extra oxygenation is also greatly exaggerated. It is important to realize that this ionic form of oxygen is not the one that the plant can use. Plants absorb O2, the gaseous oxygen that is in the air, the reunion of two oxygen atoms. What happens to that oxygen ion when it is released? Since it is very reactive, it will not live long, or travel far.
“As a general rule, doing something that weakens your plants when they are already attacked by pathogens is not a bright idea.”
It will, most likely, encounter something to attach to. It will then precipitate out of solution with that “something.” Once again, that can be a cell, a spore, but also a metallic ion such as iron. If some of those ions, obviously a small portion, manage to turn into gaseous oxygen, they will simply get out of the solution, at least for the larger part. The reason is simple: there is a maximum of dissolved oxygen that you can have in the water. This maximum varies mostly in relation with the temperature. Once that saturation in oxygen is attained, any extra would simply dissipate in the air. Granted, a minute fraction might be absorbed by the plant, but certainly not enough to make a difference. Don’t get me wrong, hydrogen peroxide is a very good product. There is nothing more efficient to rid a system from pathogens between two crops. I highly recommend the use of H2O2, especially if you experienced root problems in your previous crop. The use of a strongly acidic solution to dissolve the salts that might accumulate in the line, as well as using a strong solution of H2O2 to get rid of pathogens should be your routine practice between crops. It is only the idea of using it with plants in the system that makes the hair on my neck curl.
CO2 Tabs
There is no doubt that bringing extra CO2 in the atmosphere surrounding your plants will improve their growth, their health and the yield of your crop. It is not easy to do when growing in a small space: the heat from the light forces a quasiconstant renewal of the air, making it less practical to introduce CO2. CO2 tabs serve a good purpose since they release in the growing space a large amount of CO2 in a short time. Therefore, it is possible to shut the ventilation down for just a little while, but not long enough for the air to become too hot. And this can be repeated a few times for more effect. However, it is a mistake to put the tabs in your nutrient tank. They must be dissolved in a separate bucket with no connection with your system.You simply do not want CO2 in your root zone! CO2 is a by-product of plant metabolism that is released by the roots in the nutrient solution, as well as some other molecules exuded by the plants. They are “polluting” the nutrient solution. A well designed hydroponics system works well for two reasons: Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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it oxygenates the nutrient solution, but also, it helps dissipate the gazes out of the solution. CO2 tabs are absolutely counterproductive in the root zone. It is definitely a good idea to use them, but do use an extra container. Another good way add CO2 is the slow release system that will bring a slow increase of CO2 at all times by means of a basic chemical reaction. This is practical, low-tech and efficient, and it will not pollute the nutrient solution. Both low-tech methods, if well used, can save you money.
“Free radicals oxidize, or kill, spores and pathogens, but also root cells.�
Enzymes Most people are not familiar with the relationship between enzymes and bacteria. In fact the difference is pretty big: bacteria are alive, and enzymes are produced by bacteria as part of their metabolism. They are the weapons of bacteria.
Plant tissue at high magnification.
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Their role is to breakdown dead matter into single elements on which bacteria can feed. Enzymes are short lived but bacteria produce them all the time. Therefore, during a crop, if you introduce bacteria, it is like introducing millions of enzyme factories that are going to work for the duration of the crop. If well managed, it is obviously more efficient than introducing enzymes during the crop; at best, it is a quick action that will not last very long. Enzymes are very useful when used properly, or in between crops, when you need to clean a substrate from the residues of the previous crop and you want a quick, strong effect. In that case, nothing works better than enzymes. For the rest of the time, use bacteria or fungi (they are also enzyme factories). The typical bacterium to use in this case is Trichoderma harzianum, an especially efficient and economical product. We have seen with those few examples how useful products can be detrimental when used improperly. Many beginners tend to buy all the products on the shelf and hope that this will help them succeed in their growing operation. In fact, it is often the contrary. As strange as it might sound, I have seen many beginners fail just by doing too much. It is better to start with the basics: a hydroponics system, a plant, a nutrient and a pH corrector. This is all you really need. From there, you can start experimenting with the many products on the market today, but not before learning how to use them properly! MY
floWer
The
leaf
Vascular system ystem
stem
From top to Bottom
bud
Plants, like all living things, resPond to their environments for good or for bad. a good environment breeds a healthy Plant. a bad environment breeds an unhealthy Plant, or can kill the Plant. taP root
You likely know the basic plant life system, but let’s refresh. Through its leaves, a plant takes in light and carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere. Through its roots, it takes in water and nutrients from the soil or growing environment. It converts light and CO2 into sugar and releases oxygen (O2). The plant then uses these sugars, the water and nutrients for growth.
fibrous root
No iFs or Buts
Hydroponic growing lets you give the best care possible to your plants. The quality of care is in your control. These are the most important factors you need to know:
light water purityoxygeNph Valueppm Valuetemperature Hydroponics is the first choice when you want the most control possible over plant growth. That control depends on knowing as much as possible about the growing environment. It’s why we need accurate measuring systems. They tell us when things are going well and when they’re turning for the worse. First, we measure what’s happening in the growing environment. Then we can make sure we keep growing conditions superb. We can, in other words, add our knowledge and skills to nature. Water and nutrient conducting tissue throughout the plant ensure that all parts of the plant get the water and nutrition they need to grow.
shoot system • •
Above ground parts of the plant Leaves trap energy from sunlight and carbon dioxide from the air to create “food” (photosynthesis).
• • • •
Leaves release oxygen into the air (respiration). Stems provide structure and position leaves so they can collect sunlight. Buds produce new plants or plant parts. Flowers or cones produce seeds from which new plants can grow.
root system • • • • •
Below ground parts of the plant Anchors and supports the plant in the ground. Fibrous roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil. Taproots store “food” created during photosynthesis. May produce new plant from roots buds.
it souNds oBVious, aNd it is. plaNts eat!
Article contributed by Bluelab Corporation Limited
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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A How to Guide to GrAftinG by dr. Mike nicHols
A stronG stArt MAkes success More likely And productivity GreAter.
get over the check. If the rootstock is germinated at 25°C, it Grafting is an important technique used to control plant takes about 17 days to reach the 1.5 millimetre diameter. The vigour for fruit trees. It provides a means to establish specific growth of the scion can be controlled with temperature, to varieties (clones) of the majority of fruit trees that don’t breed ensure that the scion and rootstock are at the correct size at true from seed and cannot easily form roots from cuttings. the same time. Grafting also plays a role in vegetable “in terMs of productivity, it It is essential that the grafting area is production, particularly (but not solely) AppeArs tHAt GrAftinG will hygienic and all equipment is clean. Knives in controlled environment agriculture. should be disinfected regularly to avoid the Obviously, it is necessary to sow two not only increAse yield but possible spread of viruses. The first stage of sets of seeds, namely the rootstock and Also tHe More viGorous grafting is to remove the heads of the rootscion varieties. Experience has suggestroot systeMs MiGHt Also stock and throw away the heads to ensure ed that the rootstock should be sown increAse wAter efficiency that they do not get mixed up with the several days before the scion, because And nutrient Absorption.” scion. The cut is made at a 45 degree angle not only is germination a little more 2.5 centimetres above the pot. Too low and erratic, the seed also takes a little longer there is the risk of scion rooting; too high and the graft might to germinate. become too heavy and fall over. The grafting clips are then atThe ideal size for grafting is when the stems of both scion tached to the rootstock. and rootstock are 1.5 millimetres in diameter. Almost cerThe scion is prepared by cutting the seedling heads to a length tainly this will mean some need for grading the rootstock of a 1.2 centimetres. Again, a 45 degree angle cut is made. This seedlings after emergence to ensure that all the rootstocks provides the maximum possible surface area for the rootstock in a tray are the same diameter. Growing the seedlings in and scion fusion. The scion is then inserted into the grafting clip plug trays makes it possible to grade, but this must be done at least two days prior to grafting to give the plants time to until the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion cut make full contact.
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
The grafted seedlings must remain in the high humidity environment (mist propagation) for at least four days to ensure the scion remains turgid and the graft takes.Then, over several days the humidity should be slowly reduced to glasshouse levels. Normally, full ventilation should be possible after day seven. It is not necessary to remove the grafting clips; they fall off naturally. In fact, removing them by hand could damage the plants. Rootstocks vary in their vegetative/generative characteristics, and it is really a question of selecting the appropriate rootstock for your scion/ production system/planting date.Where vigour is desirable then a highly vegetative rootstock should be selected, but if growing a crop into the winter, a generative rootstock might be favoured. One of the advantages of a vegetative rootstock is that it introduces the opportunity to grow two or more main stems to a single root system, with a consequential reduction in propagation costs.This might almost negate the additional cost of producing grafted seedlings.The bonus, then, would be a potentially more productive plant that would resist soil-bourne pathogens and grow better during cool conditions.
AdvAntAGes to GrAftinG: • improved productivity due to resistance to disease • grafted plants (via the rootstock) are more tolerant to poor water quality (salinity) • grafted plants can tolerate low temperatures The take-home lesson from this is that grafting has the potential to markedly increase productivity, but there is probably a need to match the rootstock to the scion for best results. In terms of productivity, it appears that grafting will not only increase yield but also the more vigorous root systems might also increase water efficiency and nutrient absorption. MY
Maximum Maximum Yield | Yield September/October USA | August 2011
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Measuring Light Intensity by Philip McIntosh
Historically light intensity has been measured in a number of ways. It is complicated by the fact that light is something that we humans perceive in a specific way. Our eyes are sensitive to only a small fraction of the total electromagnetic spectrum, and our thoughts about what light is are influenced by this limited perception. The light requirement for a reading room is different from that of an office space, which is in turn different from that of a factory floor. Early light research focused on human perceptions and needs and so was biased toward the view from the human eye窶馬ot the view from the photosystems of plants. Plants have their 40
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
own specific requirements that are not aligned with those of humans. You will see the terms candelas, lumens, footcandles, candlepower, lux, moles, Einsteins and photosynthetic photon flux density used to describe light as it relates to plants and photosynthesis. What do these terms mean?
Candlepower.
Lumens.
Candlepower (cp) is an obsolete unit of luminous intensity based on the light emitted from a specific type of candle (in England the candles had to be made of pure spermaceti weighing 1∕6 of a pound and burning at a specified rate; that should tell you how obsolete this unit really is). Candlepower was deprecated in 1948 and there is really no excuse for still using it.
The lumen (lm) is the SI unit of luminous flux (meaning something like “flow of light”), and is best thought of as a unit of perceived light power or total visible light from a source. High output lights are perceived to be brighter and have more power than dim ones; thus they output more lumens. A lumen is based on the unit the candela, and represents a light source with a radiance of one cd/sr. Keep in mind that the farther you are from a light source, the dimmer it looks but it still outputs the same number of lumens. But, there is less light energy falling on a surface as the source is placed farther away.
Footcandles. Another obsolete unit, the footcandle (fc) (also foot candle or foot-candle) is a unit of illuminance, equivalent to the light shining on a surface placed three metres away from a source having an intensity of one candle (a candlepower of one). Although you may still see footcandles (or even candlepower) in older literature and even on some light metres, lux (one fc = 10.764 lux) is the preferred illuminance unit.
Candelas. The candela (cd) replaced candlepower as the SI unit of luminous intensity. It is defined as the luminous intensity in a given direction of a source emitting 555 nanometers radiation with a radiant intensity of 1/683 watt per steridian (sr). Steridian, now there’s a unit you don’t come across every day! A steridian is roughly the area covered by 1∕12 of a sphere having a radius of one unit. The 555 nanometers wavelength (green) was chosen to correspond to the wavelength of highest sensitivity of the human eye when adapted to bright conditions. Perhaps you can already see a problem with the fact that green light was chosen as a part of the definition and method of producing a standard reference source for the candela; this is not an efficient wavelength for plant photosynthesis.
Lux. The lux is the SI unit of illuminance. Lux gives the number of lumens per square yard (the illuminance) on a surface. For example, if a luminous flux of 100 lm, is shone on an area of one square yard, the illuminance is 100 lux. One hundred lm concentrated on a 25 square centimetres surface (perhaps by moving the source closer to the surface) results in an illuminance of 10,000 lux— the illuminance is 100 times as high since the area of a 10 by 10 centimetre surface is 1/100th the area of a square yard. Knowing this does not give any information about how much of that is light is actually useful for plants.
Moles, Einsteins and Photon Flux Density. The mole (mol) is Avogadro’s number of any kind of discrete particle. Avogadro’s number, 6.022 x 1023, shows up all over the place in physics and chemistry. As a simplified example of how it’s used, if you have one mole of oxygen atoms, you have 6.022 x 1023 oxygen atoms. If a mole of oxygen atoms is combined with two moles of hydrogen atoms you will get one mole of water (H2O).
Named for the scientist (in honour of his 1905 description of the photoelectric effect, in which certain materials eject electrons when struck by light), the Einstein (E) is a unit (but not an SI unit) of quantized light energy. The Einstein is sometimes mistakenly described as one mole of photons of any wavelength. However, it is really the amount of energy (in joules/mol), of a mole photons of a given wavelength. A mole of photons is quite a lot, so in plant research, photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) measurements are reported in microEinsteins per second per square yard (micro = one-millionth). Or, to be consistent with SI units, micromol per second per square yard. These data are collected using sensors that essentially count all the photons in the range from around 300 nanometers to 700 nanometers. This is also known as the photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) or photosynthetic photon flux (PPF). MY About the Author:
Philip McIntosh is a science and technology writer with a bachelor’s degree in botany and chemistry and a master’s degree in biological science. During his graduate research he used hydroponic techniques to grow axenic plants. He lives in Colorado Springs, CO. where he teaches mathematics at Challenger Middle School.
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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RETAIL
directory
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South Pacific Hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 South Pacific Hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617
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NEW SOUTH WALES ABC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131 ASE Hydroponics (02) 9477 3710 Factory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 Ballina Hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321 Brunswick Hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552 Criscete Hydroponics and Organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779 Dr. Van Der Bloom’s Hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992 Dubbo Hydro & Tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616 Ezi Grow Hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826 Ezi Grow Hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610 Ezi Grow Hydro - Head Office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485 Favgro Hydroponics Growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165 Felanza - Hydroponics (02) 9556 1494 140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 General Hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682 Grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000 Grow Your Own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179 Happy Grow Hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870 Hobby Grow 6/46 Through Street South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069 Home Harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841 Hyalite Moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400 Hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199 Hydro Masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845 Hydro Masta Pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011 Hydro Net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955 Hydro Place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595 Hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489 Hydro Shop Pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707 Hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307 Hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700 Hydroponics Grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911 Hygrow Horticulture (Greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928 Indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511 Indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700 International Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500 Kyper’s Tools and Hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928 Lismore Hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311
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Lismore Hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 Northern Nursery Supplies Pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 Nowra Hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 Nutriflo Hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 Parkview Plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 Port Pumps and Irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 Quik Grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 Quick Grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 Quik Grow Pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 Simple Grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 Tweed Coast Hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 Uncle Wal’s Gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 Home Grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 Westside Lighting & Electrical (Ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 Wollongong Hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 NORTHERN TERRITORY Katherine Hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 QUEENSLAND A Happy Medium Hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 Allgrow Hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 Aquatic Oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 Billabong Hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 D-Bay Hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 E.T. Grow Home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 Eye Lighting Australia Pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 Green Power Hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 Grow Hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 Hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 Hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 Hydroponics Today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 Indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068 J&K Hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 KY Garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 Nerang Hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 North Queensland Hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 Northern Hydroponics 383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 Pioneer Hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 SA Hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 Simply Hydroponics Gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211
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Sunstate Hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 Sunstate Hydroponics 67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 The Hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 Tumbling Waters Hydroponics 2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 Walsh’s Seeds Garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 SOUTH AUSTRALIA Amazon Aquariums & Gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Ascot Park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 Barry’s Hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 Bolzon Home & Garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 Complete Hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 Country Hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 D & W Dependable Hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 Festive Hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 Fulham Gardener Nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 Glandore Hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 Greener then Green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 Greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 Greenhouse Superstore Royal Park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 Ground-Up Service Nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 Harvest Time Hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 Hindmarsh Hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 Highland Hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 Hong Kong Hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 Hydro Heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 Hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 Hydro Technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 Hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 Hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 Koko’s Hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 Larg’s Bay Garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 Martins Road Hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 Mitre 10 Drive In 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 New Age Hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 Owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 Professional Hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 Professional Hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 Professional Hydroponics 113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA
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Seaton Hydroponics 129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 Soladome Aquaculture & Hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 South Coast Hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 State Hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 Tea Tree Gully Hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 Two Wells Hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 Urban Grow Solutions 1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 West Garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 TASMANIA Advanced Hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 Ezy Grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 Garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 Green Acres Hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 Growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 Hydroponics Systems 131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 Hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 Organic Garden Supplies Tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 Tas Hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 The Hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 The Hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428
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VICTORIA
Albury Hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 All Seasons Hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 Banksia Greenhouse and Outdoor Garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 Barb’s Hydro and Nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 Bayside Hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 Belgrave Hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 Brew ‘N’ Grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 Casey Hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 Casey Hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 Chronic Hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 Complete Garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 Discount Hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 Echuca Hydroponic Nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Echuca Pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 Excel Distributors Pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 F.L.O.W. Plants and Environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 Gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 Global Hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 Greenleaf Hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844
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Greenleaf Hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311 GreenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566 Grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425 Holland Forge Pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372 Hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805 Hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452 Hyalite Bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946 Hyalite Global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400 Hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510 Indoor Garden Company (03) 9416 1699 29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 Impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515 JB Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399 Just Hydroponics Deer Park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861 Just Hydroponics Geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley Home Brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140 Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055 Melton Hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256 Midtown Hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300 One Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177 Pam’s Home Brew & Hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143 Palms & Plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575 Prestige Hydroponics Pty. Ltd. S 2.10 Level 2, 343 Little Collins St. Melbourne VIC Australia 3000 61 4 187 81083 Shepparton Hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433 Simply Hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344 Simply Hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677 Sunlite Hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730 Sunray Hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422 Supply Net International P/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600 The Hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662 Waterworks Hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455 WESTERN AUSTRALIA Accent Hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 Aqua Post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 Bunbury Alternate Growing Supplies 8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 Creative Hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Great Southern Hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 Greenfingers World of Hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056
(08) 9375 9355 (08) 9354 2888 1800 640 222 (08) 9725 7020 (08) 9528 1310 (08) 9721 8322 (08) 9452 0546 (08) 9274 8388
Greenlite Hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 Growsmart Hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 Hydro Nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 Hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 Hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 Isabella’s Hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 Johnson’s Nursery Garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 Neerabup Organic & Hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 One Stop Hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 Perth Hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 Reptile and Grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 Southwest Hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 The Grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 Bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 The Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 The Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 The Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 Water Garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017
(08) 9345 5321 (08) 9841 3220 (08) 9336 7368 (08) 9248 1901 (08) 9206 0188 (08) 9371 5757 (08) 9306 3028 (08) 9921 6016 (08) 9404 7155 (08) 9471 7000 (08) 9478 1211 (08) 9527 2245 (08) 9534 8544 (08) 9356 7044 (08) 9217 4400 (08) 9473 1473 (08) 9495 1495 (08) 9274 3232 (08) 9443 7993
NEW ZEALAND
Easy Grow New Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland Easy Grow Manukau 15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland Guru Gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth Otaki Hydroponics 1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki House of Hydro 221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellington Pet and Garden 10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch Grow and Brew 14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland Green Day Hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui Switched on Gardener Number 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei Switched on Gardener Unit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson Switched on Gardener Unit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga Switched on Gardener Number 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton Switched on Gardener Number 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings Switched on Gardener Number 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington Switched on Gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield Switched on Gardener Number 1 Rata Street, New Lynn Switched on Gardener Number 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau Switched on Gardener Number 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga Switched on Gardener Number 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt Switched on Gardener Number 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson Switched on Gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood Switched on Gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD Switched on Gardener Number 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin
09 827 0883 09 263 7560 06 758 6661 06 364 2206
03 377 2507 09 426 2095 07 575 4090 (09)438 0223 (09) 837 1210 (09) 576 0296 (07) 850 8351 (06) 876 7885 (04) 472 5265 (09) 443 0106 (09) 826 4444 (09) 263 4336 (07) 579 9840 (04) 526 3913 (03) 546 4769 (03) 381 0937 (03) 374 5682 (03) 456 1980
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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COMING UP IN Nov-Dec
DO YOUDO YOU KNOW?
Hydroponic H2O: Water Quality andTreatment
1 Over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may
Just because the water coming out of your tap is clear and healthy for you, doesn’t mean your plants will feel the same way. Dr. Lynette Morgan describes what problem water looks like and solutions to it.
Atmospheric Excellence: If Plants Could Talk Because we may not always know what our plants need during the crucial grow and bloom phases of life, Hans Kersbergen delves into controlling climate conditions in this no-nonsense article.
contribute to the overall flavour experience have been identified in tomato fruit.
difference between bacteria and enzymes is pretty 2 The big. Bacteria are alive whereas enzymes are weapons of bacteria, produced as part of their metabolism. Although fungus gnats are typically harmless to healthy
3 plants, a healthy garden is not always immune. 4
Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant, enhancing chlorophyll content and supplying organic trace elements.
5
Absinthe is legendary for supposedly turning a generation of writers mad from hallucinations, but the main medicinal ingredient in anise, anethole, is not to blame.
Drying and Preserving Herbs The ancient process of drying and preserving herbs for medicinal and culinary purposes is presented by Matt LeBannister.
Plus: Innovative instrumentation, ballasts and blazers, cloners, trimmers, grow tents and more.
www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield November/December will be available November 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand. Subscriptions are available by contacting editor@maximumyield.com or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php
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Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
6 7
The heat producing or burning compound contained in chilli peppers is capsaicin, which was first isolated from plant tissue in 1877. The quantity of hydrogen peroxide that you can introduce in the nutrient solution without killing your plant is so small that it is not enough to completely free the solution from pathogens. The medicinal herb anise is versatile and can be
8 used for flavouring desserts, foods and liquors, or for curing tummyaches.
Maximum Yield | September/October 2011
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Maximum Yield Australia | November/December | September/October 2011 2010