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FEATURES
CONTENTS may 2010
46
Flavor Chemistry of Hydroponic Plants
58
Trace Elements in Nature's Balance - Part 2
68
Taming the Beast: Bringing the Unruly Indoors
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
by Maynard Murray, PhD
by Erik Biksa
68 86
76
Automated Climate Control the Right Way
86
The Real Organic Hydroponics
90
Understanding and Using Trichoderma Fungi
96
Healing with Food: A Hydroponicist's Perspective
106
by Isabelle Lemay, agr. and Mélissa Léveillé
by Luis Bartolo
by Donald Lester
by Evan Folds
Greenhouse Cucumbers: Getting Plants to Produce Year-Round by James W. Brown
114
Small Spaces, Big Yields - Part 2
128
The Short and Vicious Life of a Fungus Gnat
by Lee McCall
DEPARTMENTS 10 From the Editor
122 Beginner’s Corner
12 Letters to the Editor
124 You Tell Us
14 MaximumYield.com
126 Avant-Gardening
18 Ask Erik
134 Talking Shop
20 MAX Facts
138 Max Mart
34 Product Spotlight
142 Coming up in June
66 Growing for Health
143 Do You Know?
74 Tips and Tricks
144 Distributors
84 Green Thumb Gardening
143 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
9
FROM THE editor
jessica raymond
We can all grow our own hydro paradise; we just need to know where to begin! Maximum Yield is serious about education, and setting you on the right path to a healthy, abundant garden is what we do best. You only want the best for your crops and this issue will keep you on your tip toes by bringing you the very latest in tips and techniques, including taming unruly plant strains, manipulating flavor chemistry, fighting pests and disease, adopting organic techniques and feeding your plants nutrient-rich sea solids. Of course the hard work need not rest solely on your shoulders.
Jessica Raymond, Editor editor@maximumyield.com
We are a community of growers and we’re all working towards the same goals. Growing our own food makes us healthier and brings us together through our shared affection of nutritious, flavorful, homegrown treats. Learn, share and explore at www.maximumyield.com or chat with others through Facebook.com/MaximumYield. Got questions? We are here to answer them. Simply call, write or drop us an email at editor@maximumyield.com and we will respond. The upcoming Indoor Gardening Expos in Montréal, Quebec (June 5-6), San Francisco, California (July 24-25) and Long Beach, California (October 16-17) will also provide the perfect platform for you to interact with and learn from other indoor gardening enthusiasts.Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for updated information on all three of these highly-anticipated events.
contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.
Mélissa Léveillé holds a license in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.
Dr. Murray's lifelong research in sea energy agriculture began in 1936. The years before he died in 1983 were filled with intense hydroponic research on his own farm in North Fort Myers, Florida. The science lay dormant for 20 years. Orsa Organix, distributors of sustainable, balanced and eco-friendly technologies, is teaching others what Dr. Murray discovered.
Donald Lester is the plant products manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit.
Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life
Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach land care company, and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com). With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to such topics as empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance.
Erik Biksa holds a diploma in
James W. Brown graduated from
Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.
Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information.
agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.
Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing. com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
Cornell University with a Master’s Degree, a Vegetable Crops Major and an Associate Degree from the Nova Scotia Agricultural College. Jim has more than 30 years experience in the hydroponics industry as a horticulturist, teacher and consultant on soilless growing.
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
FOXFARM Coming Friday
LETTERS TO the editor
Critical Critique Andrew Taylor’s article “Using Using Conduc Conductivity to Control Nutrient to Control Nu tivity Concentration” (March, p. 60) is trien Concentratio t n riddled with factual inaccuracies, Part II excludes critical information and makes testing nutrient solutions considerably more confusing for the reader. There are many sections in this article that are simply wrong, such as how to calibrate an EC meter. A meter should be calibrated per the instrument’s instructions. Additionally, the choice of using a TDS meter vs. a conductivity meter should be based on what each nutrient company specifically recommends. This article is clearly biased towards the author’s own products. by Andrew
Taylor: Che
mist for Flair form
It is impor tant to contro l the concen of hydroponic tration nutrients. Burnin or foliage can g of roots occur if levels the concen are too high. tration is too low then deficie If symptoms will occur. ncy The concen tration of nutrie is usually set nts and additiv by the manuf es acturers who recommend volumetric dose rates of, instance, four for to Nutrient labels five teaspoons per gallon . often list dosage terms of both rates in volume and EC. Howev the main inorga er, for nic nutrient, (EC) meter* a conductivity is a helpful dosing *Also includ es cF and TDS aid. meters
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YIELD USA - March 2010
LED Fever I really liked the last issue of Maximum Yield USA and the article that Erik Biksa wrote, “Next Generation LEDs: The Diodes Strike Back.” I was disappointed though that I could not find the approximate cost or where to find these new, spectacular LED light systems. Much appreciated and keep on printing great articles. Jeffrey Casey I recently read your article on LEDs about how under the right circumstances "... LEDs may cause an explosion in the number of people who grow at home." My question is, how do you choose which manufacturer makes quality LEDs? Ricardo Tapia
Rob Samborn Director of sales and marketing HM Digital, Inc.
I want to thank Erik Biksa for a great article in the latest addition about next generation LEDs. Truly a great read.
We appreciate your feedback. Please note that the views expressed herein are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield.
I read Erik’s review on LED lights and I’m really thinking about going (and growing) in that direction. I’ve searched the web looking for research to supplement the information presented. Could you please tell me what brand of LED those are? Are the frames of the light color coated: red for flowering and blue for veg? Thanks guys and good job on the zine.
On the Road with Maximum Yield I’m going to be travelling for the next few months and I will not have Internet connectivity. I plan on spending a good portion of my time reading the back issues of Maximum Yield, so a small library of hard copies will be travelling with me. Thanks for all your great work. Greg Markham
Essential Growing Tool I own The Grow Shop in Toledo, Ohio and we support Maximum Yield. Your magazine helps a lot of our customers as there is lots of good information. I also like the product spotlights. Thank you Michael Vaculik
Mike Kitson
Derek Buyers need to be very careful when making their choice, as some units simply don't perform up to the claims. Growers can't expect an inexpensive, generic LED crop light to work as well as the next, as their are major differences including type and number of diodes/chips, wattage of diodes, peak wavelengths, ratios of the individual diodes, driver output, etc. It pays to do the research, and it is my hope that this article series will allow people to ask the right types of questions when making their decision on which type of LED to get for their garden, and to better understand what makes one LED work better for their plants than another. Cheers, Erik Biksa
It’s a Fact The article you ran in April USA, “Growing Fads and Fallacies” by William Texier, contained very good information! I hope many growers and shop owners read this one. It would help them on there quest to be better indoor gardeners. Thanks for letting that one hit the press. Regards Gerald Garrison CEO, Green Applied Sciences Inc.
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com
Coming up on the Web Connect with us See what everyone is buzzin’ about on Maximum Yield’s online community. Gain access to FREE stuff, the latest event updates and product spotlights. Plus sign up to receive our monthly E-News, keeping you in the know, and subscribe to Maximum Yield to keep those hydro tips and tricks coming to your door all year long.
What’s going on? The Maximum Yield 2010 Indoor Gardening Expos kick off in Montréal, QC at the trendy Palais des congrès, followed by the 7th Annual San Francisco Expo – July 24-25, 2010 and the 1st Annual Long Beach, CA Expo at the gorgeous Long Beach Convention Center – Oct. 16-17, 2010. Everyone is welcome to come learn, network and grow! Additional show details are available www.indoorgardenexpo.com
Featured Articles Garden Automation Save energy and create a more stable environment with garden automation.
Organic Hydroponics The ultimate combination of eco-friendly practices and control can be attainable with organic hydroponics.
Hydro Flavor Chemistry Enhance your hydroponically-grown crops by understanding flavor chemistry. Make sure to check out this month’s Online Extras on maximumyield.com, including trichoderma fungi shopping tips, training tricks for tough plant strains and scenarios and solutions for choosing the right garden controller.
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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VOLUME 11 – NUMBER 2 May 2010 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada.
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Gaby Morin - gaby@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com Daniel Peters - daniel@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher
ASK
erik
Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.
Hi Erik, Is there a way to rid my garden of spidermites and save my plants? I don’t want to lose the strain but if that’s the only way to get rid of the mites then I have some decisions to make. Thank you for taking the time to read my question. Take care Max Garcia It is possible, although often easier said than done. I have room. Predatory insects that eat spidermites are also effective, observed instances where spidermites were completely eradiso long as you choose the right predator for the right growing cated through careful control and diligence. However, most of environment. Typically, most mite predators are more effective the time growers are able to kill the mites, significantly reducing in the vegetative phase. their populations only to keep making the same mistakes that No matter which method you choose, it’s the understanding of bring them back. the spidermite’s lifecycle and the importance of understanding Killing spidermites is easy. Killing them all is more difficult as the different egg, juvenile and adult stages that really helps to they typically have three growth stages in their populations: eggs, eliminate them. However, understanding the cultural practices juveniles and adults. Their lifecycle, on average, is usually a new that leave your plants susceptible to attacks is what will keep the generation every 10 to 14 days, however, in hot and dry condiproblem from recurring. Once you have killed off the mites, tions they reproduce faster, for example every seven to 10 days. don’t fall victim to repeated pesticide applications because of Miticides are often registered insecticides, as they are serious reliance on products rather than management. stuff. Natural pyrethrums, neem extracts and other botanical oils Stressed plants in hot and dry grow rooms are very prone to can be effective, although may not have either or both the resid- mite attacks. Start by maintaining the correct growing environual or knock-down power that registered ment. Keep your room clean and free of miticides have. Most serious miticides "Stressed plants in hot and any soil or leaf debris. Pay special attention only require one application, provided to leaf wastes, etc. that may be accumulatdry grow rooms are very that growers prevent the entry of ing on the surface of the growth medium, prone to mite attacks. " new mites by not repeating their as leaves fall from the plant. Whatever you previous mistakes. Botanical and do, don’t bring in new plants from outother natural controls should be applied once every doors or other gardens, as they may have spidermite eggs on three days for three applications, at a minimum. them. Change your clothes, and even have a shower before you Switching control products for each applicavisit your grow room if you have been outdoors or visiting tion can help reduce the incidence of the other gardens or nurseries. Keep pets out of the grow room as spidermites from developing resistance they can carry spidermites into your garden. Discard soils and to any one control. soilless medium that were used during spidermite outbreaks; the Alternatively, eggs may lay dormant in the medium. kill-level CO2 levels Plants can be strengthened to better resist insect attacks on an can be used in enclosed intracellular level with applications of some types of nutrient growing areas during additives. Also, plant cell walls and the spaces between them can the dark cycle be thickened and hardened with applications of plant available when no people silicate, creating a tougher barrier for spidermites to penetrate. or animals The main thing to take away is it takes much more than sprays are presto eliminate mites from the garden; you must understand their ent in lifecycle and preferences while managing your garden and plants the grow to prevent resurgences in their populations after treatments. Cheers, Erik Biksa
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MY
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Growing Green Roofs Researchers are conducting studies to determine the effect of the growing medium's depth on the success of green roofs. Twelve species of sedum, a succulent know for its drought tolerance, were planted, fertilized and watered once. The moisture of the growing material was measured at random times each week. Over the course of the four year study, it was found that the shallowest plot had the lowest moisture levels on average and dried the fastest after a rain. At the 1.5 inch depth, four species failed to exhibit significant growth over the four year period. Five species showed no or little growth at the three inch depth, and six species showed no or little growth at a depth of four inches. Some species declined over the four year period at the varying depths. The remaining plants that flourished were the same species for all three depths. The results indicate that, for the surviving and most-abundant species, there is no benefit to depths greater than three inches, which is good news considering shallow depths make for lighter roof loads. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
Asexual Plant Reproduction May Seed New Approach for Agriculture Farmers throughout the world spend an estimated $36 billion a year to buy seeds for crops, especially those with sought after traits such as hardiness and pest-resistance. They can't grow these seeds themselves because the very act of sexual reproduction erases many of those carefully selected traits. Scientists are close to turning sexually-reproducing plants into asexual reproducers. The findings raise the possibility that many plants have the ability to reproduce through apomixis, a specific type of asexual reproduction, but that potential is suppressed by Argonaute 9, a large family of proteins that has gained widespread attention among researchers because they control which gene products a cell makes. Scientists are still working toward creating a fully asexual arabidopsis plant. Current mutants do not develop completely asexual seeds. But by highlighting the role of Argonaute 9 in plant reproduction the slew of agricultural possibilities increases. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
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Gardening Against Poverty EZ-Clone may be rooted in sunny Sacramento, California, but their limbs stretch across oceans, all the way to Ghana, West Africa. They have joined forced with the MORE Institute (Modular Organic Regenerative Environments) in an effort to improve farming practices for small farmers. EZClone has developed a foolproof, 1440 site, cloning monstrosity that will produce 1200 cuttings every two weeks to ensure that the demand for fresh fruits and vegetables can be supplied. They will select varieties with optimum genetics for high yielding and quick fruiting tomato plants. Farmers in Ghana have begun weeding through the multiple species of tomatoes in search of the ultimate motherplant for their climate and conditions. Due to the hot climate of Ghana and its inability for mass refrigeration, preservation is not a viable option. This means fresh produce must be available daily. The cost of importing fresh tomatoes is astronomical, making growing their own a practical and eco-friendly solution for this well-loved crop.
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Information at Your Fingertips from Biobizz Education is the key to Biobizz’s success and the success of our customers’. That is why we created our new product brochure, a comprehensive directory of the entire Biobizz line-up. This informative brochure consists of 32 full color pages and includes information about the Biobizz Philosophy of Nature and how to effectively use each of our products. This user-friendly brochure features specialty icons that will guide you through the Biobizz product line and their usage. The center pages may be taken out and posted in a convenient location so you can access the upgraded Biobizz nutrient table anywhere, anytime. A digital copy of this brochure will be available for download on our website very soon. Your own copy is just a click away. Simply visit www.biobizz.com to download.
Anguilla: A Hydroponic Paradise On many Caribbean islands obtaining fresh produce presents huge challenges due to the scarcity of fresh water and the high cost of desalinization. In Anguilla, a nation of 35 square miles with a population of just 15,000, shipping produce by barge can easily take a week from the closest port and the vast majority of produce arrives frozen or processed. Howard Resh, Ph.D., a long-time pioneer in hydroponic farming, is the director of the hydroponic farm at the CuisinArt Resort, the first resort in the Caribbean to launch a large-scale hydroponic farm when he founded it in 1999. The operation provides the three restaurants at CuisinArt with 60 to 80 pounds of tomatoes, 30 pounds of peppers, 128 heads of lettuce and varying amounts of herbs, cucumbers and other produce daily, including distinctive zebrino tomatoes and European bibb and oak lettuce. (Source: www.howardresh.com)
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facts
Continued from page 22
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Prior Herbicide Use Critical to Herbicide Efficacy
Former Freeway Turned Farm
Crop and herbicide use history are more critical to herbicide efficacy and environmental safety than the timing and amount of irrigation water used, according to scientists. The behavior of the herbicide atrazine in conventionally tilled corn grown continuously year after year versus corn grown in three different crop rotations was compared with various levels of tillage and irrigation, including no irrigation tested. The amount of irrigation used—including a total absence of irrigation—had no impact on the rate of degradation of atrazine by soil microbes in the top foot of soil. The only factors that made a difference were prior herbicide use and the choice of crop sequences, with prior herbicide use the most important factor by far. Earlier studies have shown that previous applications of atrazine can predispose soil to more quickly degrade later applications of the herbicide.
The 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake left many of San Francisco's urban freeways structurally unsound. The teardown of broad segments of elevated road has led to the revitalization of neighborhoods like Hayes Valley. A clever new project, an urban agriculture cooperative called the Hayes Valley Farm (HVF), has been conceived. First, they had to transform some soil. Raising crops around an ex-expressway has meant thorough testing of the ground to ensure safe lead levels, and extensive layering of organic matter. The city has plotted up 150 fruit trees, with plants to grow vegetable starts in a greenhouse, which will be available for sale to homeowners around the Bay area. Residents have gotten the chance to work their own urban acres. Much of HVF's labor happens at "work parties," where locals learn farming skills and something like the value of tilling with a neighbor.
(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
(Source: www.good.is)
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MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Houseplants Cut Indoor Ozone Indoor air pollution has been ranked as one of the world's greatest public health risks and people in industrialized countries spend as much of 90 per cent of their time indoors. Researchers are investigating alternatives—including the use of common houseplants—to eliminate or reduce ozone concentrations and improve indoor air quality and health. Scientists chose three common houseplants—snake plant, spider plant and golden pothos—to determine their effectiveness in reducing ozone concentrations in a simulated indoor environment. Researchers set up chambers in a greenhouse equipped with a charcoal filtration air supply system in which ozone concentrations could be measured and regulated. Ozone was then injected into the chambers, and the chambers were checked every five to six minutes. The data revealed that ozone depletion rates were higher in the chambers that contained plants than in the control chambers without plants. Using plants as a mitigation method could serve as a cost-effective tool in the developing world where expensive pollution mitigation technology may not be economically feasible (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
Helpful Growing Advice Online at www.nutrifield.com.au Growing hydroponically can be difficult with so many factors to consider. That’s why Nutrifield has put together some FAQs to help explain such topics as the vegetative and bloom cycles, lighting, temperature and troubleshooting. At Nutrifield we encourage knowledge, to help the customer achieve accelerated growth for their plants. This is why we are also in the process of making an easy-to-use and interactive feeding regime. Stay tuned! Please visit www.nutrifield.com.au/faq to read through the frequently asked questions.
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MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Rooftop Farm on Affordable Housing Project
HIGH CALIPER Half Page Verticle Ad
A project in the South Bronx is hoping to combat food miles and food deserts at the same time growing fresh, nutritious vegetables in a 10,000 square foot rooftop greenhouse on top of a six story affordable housing project. The BrightFarm rooftop greenhouse in the South Bronx will be harvesting rainwater from the building for irrigation, and will even be using waste heat from the residences below to keep the plants warm. Residents will be able to enjoy fresh, nutritious food grown right above them (the farm is said to be capable of producing fresh vegetables for up to 450 people), and they will also have an opportunity to connect with how their food is grown. The opportunity will also exist for local employment. (Source: www.treehugger.com)
Technaflora 2010 East Coast Product Tour Technaflora Plant Products will be attending eight incredible music festivals on the East Coast promoting our outstanding product line. Shows include Summer Camp, Wakarusa, Bonnaroo, Gathering of the Vibes and Moe. Down. At every show the Technaflora hydro crew will be hosting informative and interactive sessions for the new and experienced gardener. The crew will be fielding questions about our plant nutrients and supplements, the benefits and economics of growing plants hydroponically. Drop by our green and gold tent and say hi, or track the crew on the road by viewing our new East Coast Tour Blog on our website, www.technaflora.com. Let the good times roll! MY
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your local indoor gardening store. Ocean Mist by Nutrifield® Ocean Mist is a unique, natural blend formulated to achieve optimal plant growth. Ocean Mist may increase the thickness of the plant’s cell walls. The added advantage of Ocean Mist is you can regularly apply this formula, without the risk of an overdose. This unique mixture helps enzymes participate in cell metabolism and increases the production of carbohydrates (brix levels) to improve yields and reduce fruit rot. It is ideal for relieving plants affected by stress and provides natural chelation. Plus it’s an excellent stimulant for micro-organism activity. *Note: When adding Ocean Mist to your hydroponic system ensure you drop your EC by 0.4 to 0.6. For more information, please visit a hydroponics shop for more information.
Shear Excellence from Hydrofarm Sometimes the simplest of tools prove to be the most valuable, like gardening shears. Hydrofarm’s two new additions to their shear lineup will soon become your favorites for cutting and trimming flowers. They feature ergonomic handles, surgical stainless steel blades and are ultra light to reduce arm and wrist fatigue. Additionally, our long-nosed pruner features a curved blade to help you gain access to hard to reach places. For more information on Hydrofarm’s Shears visit your local indoor gardening retail store.
Humboldt Wingspan
Roots Organics Super Nitro Bat Guano
An efficient wingspan is vital to the health of every beautiful bird. The Humboldt Wingspan is vital to the health of all your favorite plants. Using geometry and natural science, the Humboldt Wingspan produces the most even distribution of light compared to any competing wing hood on the market. The lightweight, ultra-cool aluminum construction has a micro-pebbled surface that is 97 per cent reflective. The Humboldt Wingspan comes with a ULapproved light socket and high quality hangers, so there’s no need to buy them separate. Our goal at Humboldt County Lights is to create better products at a lower price. Looking at our trials, we know we have accomplished our goal with the Humboldt Wingspan. Try the Humboldt Wingspan and bring some Humboldt County Quality to your garden. Ask for it at your favorite indoor gardening retail store.
Roots Organics Super Nitro Bat Guano is incredibly high in nitrogen, extracted from select caves where the quality is the highest. This potent and powerful high nitrogen guano has been consciously extracted so as not to disturb the bat colonies but provide an unparalleled, completely natural source of nitrogen. Roots Organics Super Nitro Bat Guano is fast acting and is so powerful it should be used carefully and sparingly. All of the Roots Organics guanos have been carefully sourced for quality and harvested with bat friendly methods so you and your garden get performance with principles. Roots Organics Super Nitro Bat Guano is derived from 100 per cent natural bat guano. Guaranteed Analysis: 15.5-1-1. Available sizes: three pounds, 25 pounds and 45 pounds. For more information or to review the entire Roots Organics product line, visit your favorite indoor gardening store.
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Introducing the Ebb Monster from C.A.P. C.A.P. announces the new Ebb Monster Hydroponic System with six five gallon sites! The Ebb Monster Hydroponic System combines two pumps, a built-in timer with logic circuits, a couple of float switches and gravity to control the fill and drain cycles in order to efficiently and effectively transfer nutrient to your plants on whatever schedule you set. The ease of use, dependability and proven track record of this system is unsurpassed in this industry, consistently delivering crop after crop of fresh produce. For more information contact your favorite retailer.
Roots Organics GreenFields Roots Organics GreenFields is an ocean nutrient-based potting soil mix for the vegetative and flowering phases of mature plants. GreenFields is a premium, ready-to-use potting soil created for fast growing, heavy feeding, outdoor plants. Designed with great water holding capacity, less perlite and pumice and specific ingredients like fish and crab meal, worm castings, bat guano, kelp meal and much more. The GreenFields mix has been tested and proven as an excellent outdoor blend. Designed specifically for large containers, large holes, large plants and the accompanying special demands of growing big. Roots Organics GreenFields contains: coarse peat moss, coco fiber, compost, perlite, pumice, worm castings, bat guano, fish meal, crab meal, fish bone meal, soybean meal, feather meal and kelp meal. Available in 1.5 cubic foot bags (38.6 dry quarts). For more information visit your local indoor gardening shop.
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SUNGRO Full Page
PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Humboldt Hoodlum
Premier Horticulture Pro-Mix ‘HP’
The Humboldt Hoodlum is designed to exceed even the most demanding gardener’s expectations. This lightweight, high intensity reflector comes in both A/C and non A/C models. The Humboldt Hoodlum comes with hangers, a light socket and a 15 foot cord with plug, eliminating the need for any extra expense. The Humboldt Hoodlum comes to you from Humboldt County Lights, from the Humboldt Nutrients team of growers. The H.N. approach to horticulture remains the same. Through research, development and extensive testing, we create products that are priced to compete, but designed to outperform. The 97 per cent reflective pebbled aluminum reflector and solid steel construction will ensure that you get years of production out of the Humboldt Hoodlum without getting robbed at the register. Try the Humboldt Hoodlum today and bring some Humboldt County Quality to your garden. Ask for it at your local hydro retail shop.
With this high porosity peat/perlitebased growing medium you have a solution when high air-capacity and extra drainage are required. It is ideal for water-sensitive crops, rooting cuttings or low-light growing conditions. Pro-Mix HP promotes stronger, healthier plants by developing root systems and increasing fertilizer uptake. Pro-Mix HP is made of only the finest ingredients: • Canadian sphagnum peat moss (70 to 75 per cent/ volume) • endomycorrhizae (Mycorise® Pro) • extra perlite—horticultural coarse grade • dolomitic and calcitic limestone (pH adjuster) • macronutrients • micronutrients • wetting agent Ask for Pro-Mix HP at your local indoor or outdoor gardening retailer.
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PRODUCT spotlight
Sun System ProGrip Light Hangers ProGrip™ Heavy Duty Light and Equipment Hangers allow you to secure items quickly and easily. ProGrip’s patented system pulls tight, locks in place and will never break or slip. Made with special composite material, the ProGrip is heat and cold resistant and will not rust. Maximum weight capacity is 150 pounds each (300 pounds per pair). ProGrip is excellent for use with heavier equipment like carbon filters or for hanging multiple light fixtures. Equipped with an eight foot braided polypropylene rope. Great for hoisting and securing: • reflectors • carbon filters • light fixtures • ventilation equipment Visit your local hydro retailer to learn more.
Phantom Digital Ballast - The Most Advanced Ballast on the Market Hydrofarm's Phantom Digital Ballast arrives on the market as the most rigorously tested ballast in the industry. The Phantom features silent operation, lightweight design, multiple placement options and maximum lumen output. • tri-mode, push-button dimmable feature (on 600 and 1000 watt, 120/240 volt models) • hot re-strike programming protects the lamp in the event of a power outage • tested for compatibility with most brands of high intensity grow lamps • dual resettable breakers protects lamp and household circuits • o nly ballast on the market designed for vertical operation for cool running and optimum use of grow space • drives the highest light output for maximum plant growth • universal reflector adaptor and eight foot heavy duty cord included • runs completely silent • patented lock and seal BAREF lamp cord installed • internal RF protection • triple surface aluminum fins • internal Resin coating protects components for long life Ask for the Phantom at an authorized Hydrofarm retailer near you. 40
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PRODUCT spotlight
New and Improved Quantum T-5 Bad Boys™ The 16 lamp Quantum T-5 Bad Boy produces 864 watts of usable light energy and is approximately four by four feet. The 12 lamp fixture produces 648 watts of useable light energy and is approximately four by three feet. This unit will produce up to 50 per cent more lumens from six inches away from the plants. Powered by Fulham RaceHorse Ballasts, they drive the lamps 28.6 per cent harder than the standard Fulham WorkHorse. The color and light quality is much closer to daylight resulting in tighter internodal spacing, thicker stem walls, heartier foliage, increased natural plant oils and more production. Improvements: • full cycle 54 watt T5 lamps for year round production • high output 93.5 lumens per watt for 2900K lamp • unique folding structure, compact size for shipping and ultra lightweight • universal input voltage: ballast can operate from 120 to 277 volts and 50 or 60 hertz • vented reflector and ballast housing • unique lamp spacing provides more uniform light • glass coated aluminum reflectors provide deeper penetrating light For more information please see your favorite hydro retailer.
LeafCoat from Biobizz Now Available LeafCoat is ready-to-use and made from natural latex that creates a protective, permeable, selfdegradable layer on the leaf. This layer lasts up to two weeks until it is degraded by light. LeafCoat is an environmentally friendly alternative for pesticides. It strengthens plants and provides them with a powerful expelling effect on harmful insects. It also prevents harmful leaf fungi. It smells good as opposed to synthetic and toxic products. It gives no irritations and can be used safely. LeafCoat has been evaluated and it’s certified organic. LeafCoat will save you money, and reduce your use of pesticides! Visit your favorite indoor gardening retail store to learn more.
Continued on page 132
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flavor chemistry of hydroponic plants by Dr. Lynette Morgan A poorly flavored fruit or vegetable is disappointing. We are programmed to seek out flavor; the right balance of sugar to acid, distinctive tastes and good levels of volatiles all make eating pleasurable. However, few understand just how complex the flavor chemistry of the crops we grow really is. Currently over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may contribute to the overall flavor experience, have been identified in tomato fruit alone, with potentially many more as yet undiscovered. In strawberries the compounds ethyl butanoate, furaneol and ethyl hexanoate all contribute to the distinctive strawberry-like flavor of the fruit, while sugars and acids also contribute to the overall taste experience. For many less common fruits, vegetables and herbs only a small fraction of the compounds that constitute their distinctive flavors have been isolated and identified. Despite this, the fact that we can taste a wide range of flavors, detect many volatile compounds even at low rates and form our own opinion about what tastes good, means flavor is something of interest to many growers.
Flavor Chemistry by Crop Tomatoes Tomatoes are the hydroponic crop that receives the most complaints and compliments about flavor intensity. The organoleptic (taste or flavor) properties of tomato fruits are determined largely by the amount of solids, particularly sugars and organic acids and the volatile composition. In tomatoes, the naturally occurring volatile compounds geranylacetone, 2-3-methylbutane, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one are all correlated with ‘tomato-like’ flavor, however, hundreds more also contribute to that distinctive tomato taste. 46
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A number of factors influence fruit flavor: plant genetics, light levels, temperature, water stress, raised salinity, fertilizer additions and leaf area (as influenced by training system used). Many of these factors can be influenced by growers to increase the flavor of tomato fruit. Selection of different cultivars plays a major role when looking to improve overall fruit flavor with many growers now growing ‘hi-flavor’ lines, although even these can be poorly flavored if not grown correctly. The simplest way of increasing the flavor constituents of hydroponic tomato fruit is to increase the concentration (or EC) of the nutrient solution, to produce fruits with a higher percentage dry matter, sugar and acid, and consequently, better taste and firmness. This has been found to be the case with large fruited and cherry tomatoes. Both sugars and acidity levels increased in the cherry cultivar ‘Gardeners Delight’ with fruit grown at an EC of 10 mScm-1 as compared to 2.5 mScm-1. Other studies have reported that the dry matter content, sodium content and acidity of fruit grown at an EC of 8.0 mScm-1 was greater than fruit grown at 3 mScm-1. An obstacle to improving the composition of tomato fruit via increased solution conductivity is the well-documented relationship between yield and the fruit dry matter content. Using cultivation techniques such as increasing the nutrient conductivity to increase dry matter content of the fruit also reduces the rate of water accumulation and thus cell enlargement, so that a loss in yield is almost inevitable. While commercial operations may not be willing to sacrifice yield for higher solids and flavor in their fruit, smaller growers are often keen to try this technique and grow something that just can’t be purchased at the grocery store.
Peppers and chilies
Chili peppers are grown for both their heat and distinctive flavor profile.
Sweet peppers and chilies are a passion among many small hydroponic growers for their distinctive flavor profile and the varying degrees of heat the plants are capable of producing. The heat producing or burning compound contained in chili peppers is ‘capsaicin’ which was first isolated from plant tissue in 1877. The three main capsaicinoids detected in most chili fruit are capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin and nordihydrocapsaicin. Capsaicin has no flavor or odor; the ability to sense it depends entirely on the physiological action of the compound (i.e. burning) on the tongue. Underlying the ‘heat’ of peppers are also some rather delicate flavors, which mostly arise from several aromatic compounds that make up the distinctive flavor of MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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Sweet peppers and chilies are a passion among many hydroponic growers and flavor is all important with these crops.
capsicum fruit. It is the outer fruit wall where most of the flavor compounds are located and these seem to be associated with the color or pigment levels in the fruit. There are different compounds that impart distinctive flavor profiles in the many species of chili fruit. Jalapeno flavor is attributed to the compound 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine, for example, and this is distributed unevenly throughout the pepper pod. The hydroponic production of sweet bell peppers and chili peppers is similar; however, there are techniques that can be used to boost the pungency and flavor of the hot types that are best not used for growing a succulent, mild, bell pepper. Chili pepper fruit, with their pungent compounds, respond well to the application of controlled ‘stress.’ Any factor that puts stress on the plant, such as high EC, lack of moisture and high light and temperature, increases the concentration of the heat producing compounds in the fruit and at the same time reduces fresh weight or water content. This is great for those who are aiming to grow the hottest chili possible, but should be used with caution as many chili cultivars are already genetically inclined to be scorching and intensifying these may not always be required. EC levels as high as 8.0 mScm-1 have been applied to chilies to boost pungency levels with good results, however, different chili cultivars will respond differently to increases in EC and growers should determine for themselves which EC level gives the biggest kick in the fruit. Ideally when using a higher EC to favorably increase the pungency of chilies, it is best to do this by 48
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increasing only the macro-nutrients in the solution (N, P, K, S and Ca) and maintain the trace elements (Fe, Mn, Zn, B, Cu and Mo) at normal EC strength levels.
Onions, garlic, shallots and chives Bulb onions have a strong pungent flavor and aroma originating from the presence of a range of organosulfur compounds. Onions actually accumulate large quantities of sulfur and bulb concentrations of sulfur have been reported to be in excess of one per cent on a dry weight basis. Much of the sulfur taken up by onions is partitioned into organosulfur compounds as part of the flavor biosynthetic pathway. Onion pungency is known to increase in response to increased sulfur fertility, but in addition to this, the form of nitrogen in hydroponic solutions is also shown to affect onion flavor. In hydroponic onion trials it has been found that sulfate and nitrogen availability in the nutrient solution interacted to influence onion flavor compounds and can thus be used to manipulate onion compositional quality. Certain flavor compounds in onions have been shown to increase linearly with increasing nitrogen levels in hydroponic trials from 20 to 140 milligrams/quart nitrogen. Garlic also responds in a similar way to increasing sulfur and nitrogen concentrations in the nutrient solution when grown hydroponically. ‘Alliin’ is the specific flavor and quality trait related to the health value of garlic, which has been shown to increase with higher levels of sulfur and nitrogen in many commercial garlic cultivars.
Onion bulb concentration of sulfur can be as high as one per cent on a dry weight basis.
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flavor chemistry how we taste
Part of understanding how we can improve flavor chemistry starts with how we actually perceive taste. Nerves in the tongue can detect basic compounds and we perceive these as sweet, sour, salty or bitter. We can detect these because of reactions between compounds such as sugars, polyalcohols, hydronium ions, sodium ions, glucosides, alkaloids and others with the receptors in the tongue. These receptors can also sense temperature, texture, metallic irritation, chemical heat and ‘bite’ or carbonation. However, these sensors on the tongue only detect some very basic aspects of flavor and can’t distinguish between small differences in these compounds. In fact, the tongue can only detect flavor compounds in parts
per hundred, whereas we can usually detect volatiles in parts per trillion. The main taste tool is actually the nose, which has olfactory nerve endings with receptors that bind onto volatile compounds that come from food. These two sensors, taste detected on the tongue combined with the feedback with odor receptors in the back of the nose, give us our overall sense of flavor. Simply smelling food gives a different sensation than when that aroma is combined with chewing food in the mouth.
Hydroponic wasabi contains mixtures of volatile compounds, such as isothiocyanates, which gives that distinctive pungency and flavor.
Such manipulation of nitrogen and sulfur in hydroponic nutrient solutions could not only produce higher flavored and more pungent garlic, but also bulbs with an improved health value.
Herbs Fresh herbs are grown specifically for their flavor compounds and aromatics, some of which are very concentrated under certain growing conditions. Some very pungent condiment herbs such as wasabi or horseradish contain mixtures of volatile compounds such as ‘isothiocyanates’ that give them their distinctive flavor and heat. There is some evidence that these types of pungent compounds respond to increased sulfur in the nutrient solution. Other herbs such as basil have been more widely studied and the total
Hydroponic techniques can be used to boost the pungency and flavor of hot peppers.
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Flavor Chemistry of Hydroponic Plants
PLANT REVOLUTION Half Page Vertical Ad
Succulent herbs such as mint prefer moderate temperatures and summer shading for the best flavor quality.
"Lower EC values, summer shading and moderate temperatures produce the best flavor quality..." amount of essential oil is known to significantly increase with light levels. The main flavor compounds in basil leaves are 1,8 cineole, linalool and eugenol, all of which respond to higher light by increasing the flavor intensity of the foliage. One study found that taste test panelists could discern the differences between organicallyand greenhousegrown basil, yet no preferences were shown. Basil is an aromatic herb with a high percentage of essential oils in the foliage. This oil contained within the leaf tissue is also prone to oxidation and its pungency is easily lost. If the herb is grown in conditions that are too cool or the foliage is damaged, there will be a loss in flavor and Flavor in onions can be boosted with the aroma. While basil oil addition of sulfur in the nutrient solution. 52
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Flavor Chemistry of Hydroponic Plants content can be increased with moderate plant stress, high light and increased EC, this is usually not advisable for hydroponic crops grown to be consumed fresh as it tends to reduce leaf size and quality and it is possible for basil to become overly strong. Basil destined for processing or drying, however, can benefit from being grown ‘hard’ to increase the leaf ’s fresh weight and increase the essential oil content. Soft, cool season herbs such as parsley and mint should be grown differently to the more woody aromatic herbs such as rosemary, oregano and thyme for maximum flavor and quality. Parsley can become overly strong with bitter and unpleasant overtones in flavor if grown with high light, temperatures and EC. Both mint and parsley can also develop tough and stringy foliage and stems, which reduces their eating quality, even though flavor may be more intense. Lower EC values, summer shading and
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Strawberry flavor is dependant on the balance between sugars, acids and a range of volatile compounds.
moderate temperatures produce the best flavor quality in these types of herbs. The perennial herbs—many of which are referred to as the ‘Mediterranean herbs’—originated in hot, dry climates. These include thyme, oregano, rosemary and they respond well to being grown ‘hard’ with a certain degree of stress. Under conditions of high light, reduced
moisture, high EC and warm temperatures, these types of herbs respond by concentrating the levels of essential oils and aromatic compounds in the foliage. Winter nutrient solutions for these woody herbs are best manipulated to increase the level of potassium relative to nitrogen and include some extra magnesium to maintain flavor quality.
Flavor Chemistry of Hydroponic Plants
Brassicas – watercress, arugula, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and others The characteristic flavor of brassica crops originates from sulfur-containing compounds called ‘Glucosinolates’ that yield breakdown products giving the familiar flavor and aroma, from distinctive cabbagey to peppery and pungent in watercress to sharp and nutty in arugula. Much of the distinctive flavors are linked to sulfur and this element can be manipulated in hydroponic solutions to improve the taste of certain brassica crops. Production method alone is not enough to guarantee good flavor quality in any plant. Just because a crop was hydroponically or organically grown doesn’t necessarily mean it’s going to taste any better than a conventionally grown crop. However, hydroponic methods, with the degree of control over nutritional and other factors that
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The flavor of brassicas like cabbage originates from sulfur-containing compounds called ‘glucosinolates.’
can be achieved, mean the grower has more tools to use when it comes to maximizing the taste experience. MY
Dr. Lynette Morgan’s articles, dating back to 2001, can be found on maximumyield.com
Trace Elements in Nature's Balance
2 t r a P Part 2
by Maynard Murray, PhD
One of the breakthroughs of major proportions has been in the awareness that a particular element can be essential to physiology at a minimal level although it can be toxic at a higher level. Until just recently all of the research emphasis was placed on determining if an element was toxic and on symptoms of toxicity rather than on considering the quantitative amount and chemical state of the element when it was ingested.
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“...four to five teaspoons of table salt, ingested at one time, is potentially lethal to human life.� As is well known, sodium chloride is used universally as table salt in the inorganic form. Equally as well known in the scientific community is the fact that an excessive amount, such as four or five teaspoons of table salt, ingested at one time, is potentially lethal to human life. The use of salt was a recognized method of committing suicide practiced by the Chinese in ancient times. Additionally, it can be shown that an excessive amount of any element is toxic and even a small amount, if ingested by humans in an inorganic form, may very well be toxic. As earlier described, people can utilize inorganic salts or elements only by having plant life in their intestines in the form of bacteria to hook up the inorganic element with a carbon atom so it can be transformed into an organic form. It is also interesting to note that many pregnant women and often people with heart disease, etc., are restricted to a salt-free diet by physicians.
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Trace Elements in Nature's Balance - Part 2
"...it may be more effective and efficient to supply certain trace elements to the livestock through the fertilizer-soil-plant route, rather than add these nutrients directly to the animal feed." Although one stalk of celery has as much sodium chloride in it as one would normally use at a given meal time through the salt shaker, salt-free diets do not exclude celery. The obvious reason is that sodium chloride, per se, is not toxic; it is only sodium chloride in the inorganic state that produces toxic effects. Crops and Soil Magazine (Vol. 13, No. 7, April-May 1961) carried an article entitled “Animal Health” by W.H. Allway, ARS, USDA, Ithaca, New York, from which the following quotation was taken: “Thus it may be more effective and efficient to supply certain trace elements to the livestock through the fertilizer-soil-plant route, rather than add these nutrients directly to the animal feed.” This statement was based upon the observation that “increasing evidence indicates that various chemical compounds in which the trace elements may occur vary in their effect on animals." Although only 20 elements (or minerals) are known to have a specific role in human physiology, several more are known to have beneficial effects in the physiology of plants and animals. The heavy metals, i.e., lead, silver, gold, cadmium, mercury, antimony and aluminum among them, have a suspected positive role and even known poisonous
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elements such as arsenic can be beneficial in some animals if they are ingested in organic form and in trace amounts. Finally, the Journal of the American Medical Association (Vol. 201, No. 6, August 7, 1967) reported that William H. Strain, Ph.D. and Walter J. Pories, M.D. of the University of Rochester School of Medicine and Dentistry are investigators who champion the position that no element presently can be ruled absolutely unessential to humans. In short, specialists in trace elements generally agree that more trace elements await discovery as dietary essentials in various animal species and possibly in man. Since it is true that major work is being done on the physiological role of trace elements and no element has been ruled out as possibly being important in physiology, why then did I become interested in the use of whole seawater as a fertilizer? The answer lies, at least partially, in the fact that while some 20 elements have been determined as having a role in physiology, there remain the additional 72 elements that make up the atomic table.
"...even known poisonous elements such as arsenic can be beneficial in some animals if they are ingested in organic form and in trace amounts."
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Trace Elements in Nature's Balance - Part 2 It has been estimated that a definite physiological role for a particular element is newly discovered on an average of one every 10 years. Thus, it is apparent that we may have to wait for 500 or even 600 years before all are discovered unless the rate of discovery is markedly increased. The very nature of the scientific method precludes that the researcher is not a generalist so the process only allows isolation of one variable at a time in order to identify that variable’s specific role. I am not seeking to disparage the work of men in such fields as soil science, plant physiology, animal husbandry and medicine in general, however, I am suggesting that we simply cannot wait for the inferred number of years for every remaining element to be identified and its role in physiology to be specifically defined! For example, since only a few of the enzymes have had their necessary trace elements identified, only around nine trace elements are listed under “Recommended Dietary Allowances.” However, since thousands of enzymes have been identified, there are undoubtedly thousands more enzyme-trace element joint functions remaining that must be isolated and described. The article “Trace Elements: No Longer Good Versus Bad” describes such action as follows: “A trace may stick to an enzyme like a sidekick and alter its structure, or it may help carry glucose through the cell membrane as part of its function.” Our health simply cannot wait for the exact role of each element to be discovered. If a cell exhibits the complete chemistry that should occur, and the food which has been ingested was grown in seawater or on sea solid fertilized soil, the cell will most probably be just as resistant to disease as the cells of plants and animals are in the sea. If our present diet does not permit us to take in a complete chemistry, then our cells are incomplete and are subject to invasion by foreign organic matter such as bacteria, virus or fungus. What is even more insidious is that, although we may not have a known or diagnosed disease, we may be suffering from the “disease of dilution,” characterized by an organism that malfunctions by comparison with its potential.
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Trace Elements in Nature's Balance - Part 2 It is always interesting to read the tremendous amount of research that has been done on disease resistance or the effects of medication and note the statistics. One is constantly faced with the fact that a certain percentage responded and a certain percentage did not. The question “why” is prompted when one is faced with the results of these tests and the answer is that the test subjects’ chemistry was obviously different, comparatively speaking. If one were to analyze the food that was eaten
by the animal or human subjects in the experiments, one would find that their food intake varied tremendously in elemental composition and, therefore, nutritional value as a direct result of the chemical imbalances of our soil.
"Experiments indicated that land plants will tolerate from 400 cc to 1,000 cc of seawater to one-third cubic foot of soil."
I began my research 35 years ago because I felt that we should put all of the elements back into the soil in the same proportions that they are found in the sea. I felt strongly that the plants should have the opportunity to take up any element they might need. The possibility also exists that a plant may take up certain inorganic elements that, while not critical for its own physiology, are required by animals in an organic form and only plants can perform the necessary transformation. Experiments indicated that land plants will tolerate from 400 cc to 1,000 cc of seawater to one-third cubic foot of soil. When seawater is dried by evaporation, the remaining sea solids can be administered as regular fertilizer to the land in the amount of 500 to 3,000 pounds per acre. It was also noted that unless serious rain water runoff occurred, this single application would last four to five years. Corn, wheat, oats, barley, bay, fruit trees, all vegetable crops and other plant life were raised on seawater or sea solid treated acreage. The tolerance experiments indicated that the sea can be recycled back to the land masses and the resulting color, disease resistance, taste and production yields were outstanding. MY
Reprinted with permission from Acres U.S.A., P.O. Box 91299, Austin, Texas 78709 1-512-892-4400, Subscriptions: $27/year. For a sample copy of Acres U.S.A. call 1-800-355-5313 or visit www.acresusa.com
A brief history of Dr. Maynard's lifelong research in sea energy agriculture is available on maximumyield.com
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GROWING FOR HEALTH
Getting to the
Root of Things!
by Clair Schwan
It’s time for many of us to start planting our cool weather root crops. These pint-sized plants can provide: variety in terms of color, flavor and texture; opportunity for companion planting; a double harvest for those of us who enjoy roots and greens; and, an extended season of harvest if we give them a bit of protection from the last of Old Man Winter. One of the compelling reasons to embrace root crops is variety. Whether you grow beets, carrots, radishes or turnips, root crops provide a wide variety of color, texture and flavor that make them appealing to the eye and palate. Dozens of varieties of any single type of root crop can be found by thumbing through seed catalogs. If you don’t care for red beets, how about golden? If you don’t care for the traditional purple top turnip with a peppery taste, why not try a pure white hybrid turnip that is as sweet as any carrot? In the area of companion planting, let’s look at radishes. They can be planted with almost anything in the garden. They aren’t so much of a useful companion as they are a harmless companion. Generally, they are light feeders, exhibit compact growth and reach maturity rather quickly. This allows us to fit them in with our other summer crops and harvest them before they’re shaded out by taller and spreading plants like squash. Radishes and other root crops can also make good use of ground space around climbing vegetable varieties instead of simply letting the surface area go unused around tomatoes, peas and cucumbers. Many root crops like turnips, beets and onions offer a double harvest—roots and leaves. This enables us to keep the root in the ground while selectively harvesting a portion of the leaves
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throughout the growing season. If we follow this approach, we can have a nice long season of greens and a harvest of roots at the end of the season. Many of us are so accustomed to buying cured onions in a bag that eating the green tops might not ever come to mind, but they’re an excellent addition to any recipe that calls for green onions or chives.
Many root crops like turnips, beets and onions offer a double harvest—roots and leaves. Lastly, many root crops are conducive to an extended season of harvest, especially if we give them a bit of protection from the approaching winter. If we provide heavy mulch or a row cover, the natural warmth of the earth will be retained around these low profile vegetables, and it’s likely that even the first couple of hard freezes won’t be noticed at all by root crops such as carrots, parsnips and radishes. Sure, the tops might take a beating, but the root portion will likely be in great shape despite the cold weather. Many root crops are naturally cold weather-hardy, so even after a couple of below freezing nights, those that are protected by a row cover will probably be just fine. This allows us to extend the harvest season for the roots as well as the greens. If you enjoy vegetables that offer variety, hardiness, versatility and are easy to grow, it’s time to take a good look at root crops. They don’t take up a lot of room, they don’t compete much for sunlight, there is no need to be concerned about pollination and they can usually tolerate cold weather very well. In my view, there’s plenty to like about these “well-grounded” vegetables. Reintroduce yourself to root crops and I’ll bet you’ll find new ways to enjoy them in the garden and on the table. MY About the Author: Clair Schwan is an avid vegetable gardener who grows more than 100 varieties of vegetables year round in unheated greenhouses. See his adventures in vegetable gardening at VegetableGardening-and-Greenhouses.com, and learn about how he creates homemade greenhouses over at Frugal-Living-Freedom.com
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Taming the Beast:
Bringing the Unruly Indoors
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by Erik Biksa
If you’ve recently dived into an adventure involving growing plant strains alternative to your typical crops choices, congratulations. With the right knowledge and precise management of these exotic strains, your courage will be rewarded with scale-busting, distinctive yields in the final harvest. Familiarize yourself with proven techniques, including five management methods, for taming these wild “beast” crop strains.
Let’s face it: some strains of plants, even within the same species, just aren’t particularly obedient when grown indoors under artificial sunlight. These types of plants don’t obey the grower like the many varieties that have been popularized for their favorable growth characteristics indoors like tomatoes, herbs, cucumbers and salad greens. Typically, indoor growers select their crops based on the following criteria: • fast flowering cycle (six to eight weeks) • short and compact growth habits • minimal side branching • high yields • heavy and dense flowers and fruits • fast responses to changes in photoperiod (to minimize “the stretch” in early flowering) • do not require very high light intensities relative to outdoor plants When growing indoors under lights, it makes perfect sense to select for these traits when deciding on a variety to grow. These genetically-inherited plant growth traits help ensure consistent yields and crop quality while keeping the growing process simple and straightforward. Now what about quality? Sure, most of the varieties people select for indoor gardening are of very high quality in terms of taste, aroma and even nutritional or neutraceutical content. However, can you confidently say that the variety you are presently cultivating is “special,” or is just a slight variation or exactly the same as what everyone else is growing? Unless you’re a breeder of indoor plants, the answer is probably not. There are often countless variations within the same family of your favorite plant, and in some instances, the most unique family members are those that just don’t quite fit into the conventional way of growing indoors under lights. Taking the time to develop a cropping program that allows you to growout these unruly strains can really pay off if you have the patience and time to invest. Truthfully, if you have MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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Taming the Beast: Bringing the Unruly Indoors
never attempted to conquer some of these tougher-to-manage although potentially very rewarding plants you may experience some setbacks in your first couple of attempts. It would be like producing hogs and deciding to convert a portion of the land over to wild boar production. While the two are related, they will have unique demands and management practices required. The final result will be two very different animals in behavior and size, among other qualities. Besides offering distinctive qualities in the final harvest, selecting some of these less than tame plants for indoor growth can also provide scale-busting yields, provided the crop is managed accordingly. The majority of the time, there are some really fantastic strains that are passed by for growing indoors, usually
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because they tend to finish very tall, have “stretchy” growth patterns, take longer to flower and require more space for root systems. By following some of the tricks and tips offered in this article, more experienced, and perhaps even intermediate level growers may “tame the beast” and realize highly successful yields of plants that will simply be like none other commonly available in your area. For the home grower, this means flavors and qualities that are usually only read about. For the commercial grower, this can mean bigger yields with fewer plants in the same space that produces a quality that is not available to the public from other growers competing in the marketplace. There are some advantages to selecting these less tame strains for growing indoors. First of all, while a lot of the strains have a
fast finish in flowering, they require extensive vegetative growth periods to arrive at a stature that will offer high yield on a per plant basis, as these types of plants do very little growing after flowering is initiated. With current trends for indoor growing, a lot of the strains people choose to grow only gain an additional 50 per cent or less in stature (height, number of branches and extent of branching) before filling out with flowers and fruits. This means that you have to either spend a long period in the vegetative growth phase or significantly increase the number of plants per light to achieve the right number of potential flowering sites before shifting the crop into the reproductive or bloom phase of growth. With this in mind, a plant that requires 12 weeks of flowering to reach maturity might actually reach the same yield level per plant quicker than a variety that only requires eight weeks of flowering before harvest. How can this be you might ask? Consider the plant that takes 12 weeks to reach maturity in flowering may grow over 300+ per cent larger from the size it was at the initiation of the bloom phase versus the size and stature of the same plant by the end of the flowering period. Comparatively, an eight week flowering plant might seem faster, however, consider it may only grow 50 per cent or less as an increase from the original size when flowering is initiated; meaning it will finish at the same size and girth as our 12 week flowering plant, it will likely have to spend an additional four weeks or more in vegetative growth in order for it to finish at the same size. Time a consideration, but so is electrical cost. Short-day flowering plants require longer photoperiods in the vegetative growth phase, meaning that it takes much more electricity to keep a room in 18+ hours of light per 24 hour period than it does a flowering room using 12 hours or less of light per day. This certainly makes for a good case for selecting a variety that increases more in size during the 12 hour flowering cycle, even if the time to maturity in the bloom phase is considerably longer. Besides, plants this vigorous tend to be extremely hardy and are better able to resist common indoor growing stress factors such as higher temperatures and insects and diseases. Growers accustomed to raising the more “tamed� popular indoor strains will increase their chances of success in cultivating and harvesting these more beastly strains by taking note of and practicing some of the following methods and techniques.
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Taming the Beast: Bringing the Unruly Indoors
Harvesting Methods and Techniques for more beastly strains.
Less time in veg, hoorah! Choosing a more exotic strain with a longer flowering period often means the plant will grow vigorously and profusely during the flowering period, resulting in less time required in the vegetative growth phase to reach the same final stature. Some of the most exotic varieties only receive a few days of vegetative growth when grown from cuttings. When the same variety is grown from seeds, flowering may begin as soon as the seedlings have developed “true” leaves, typically after four to six sets of leaves have grown from germination. Keep in mind that if a plant grows over 300 per cent in flowering, if you flip the lights over while it is only 12 inches tall it may be three to four feet tall when it reaches maturity and might be even larger in diameter given adequate spacing. Talk about growing by leaps and bounds! Obviously this will mean that the plant should spend less time in vegetative growth to reach the target plant size at maturity in flowering. This is where careful research by the grower really pays off. Do a background check on your new unruly family member. Breeders, chat forums and other growers with experience using the strain you have selected may be able to help give you an idea of just how much growth to expect from your chosen strain once flowering is initiated. Note that clones will tend to mature a little quicker and more compact than seed plants of the exact same strain; it’s just the nature of the beast. Also, hydroponically grown plants will tend to grow a little faster and larger than soil grown plants although yields at maturity could go one way or the other depending on the grower’s skill level and management practices.
Give ‘em lots of “elbow room” For growers accustomed to growing the more popular indoor strains, this will equate to a bit of a leap of faith concerning their unruly strain selection. When cultivating conventional indoor food strains, the plant canopy under the lights usually looks fairly filled in already, when the flowering cycle is initiated; remembering that these conventional indoor varieties will rarely grow over 50 per cent more than
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the original size at the start of flowering. Putting a room full of plants into flowering that are only 12 inches tall with several empty feet surrounding each of the plants may feel alien. However, if you have chosen and researched your unruly variety wisely and provide the correct growing conditions, you will be astounded in how short a time frame the canopy fills in and ultimately yields. The spacing between flowering and fruiting sites is often more wide versus conventional indoor varieties, due to the genetic tendency of longer internodal distances in growth patterns. While the spacing is greater, the individual flowers and fruits are typically larger, so nature’s design has given plenty of room for air circulation through the canopy to help support healthy growth of heavier flower and fruit loads.
Plenty of light, with extra red High yielding unruly varieties of excellent quality will often benefit from high levels of light, with significant intensity in the further red end of the photosynthetic spectrum. Plants originating from equatorial climates receive a different quality of light than those originating from more northern latitudes. Due to the often more open branch and leaf structure of unruly varieties for indoor growing, the intensity of the light provided passes further into the entire plant canopy versus more conventional, tightly spaced indoor varieties. This helps to provide a higher overall yield, as all portions of the plant will produce larger fruits and flowers of higher quality because they receive high light levels on all portions of the plant. Broadsiding well spaced, larger plants with vertical lighting from multiple angles using several sources of light in the growing area is a favorable lighting tactic.
Pruning and training Unruly crops are not especially well suited to growing areas with spacing constraints. However, given adequate spacing and proper training, they may have the potential to really fill the entire volume of area allotted to them with heavy yields. During the early portion of the flowering cycle plants tend to be more flexible, so growers should take advantage of any vine-like growth. Homemade cages can be constructed for each plant, helping to support and contain exceptionally vigorous growth habits. Care should be taken as not to over-prune or get to pretzel-like with the plant training, as
it requires the plant to re-arrange the flow of energy too often. Typically, the majority of pruning and training should be performed once per week for the first few weeks of flowering.
Bigger roots for bigger fruits Large volume containers or grow bags, for example 10 gallons or greater, help to support larger statured and higher yielding plants. Constraining the root system will only serve to constrain the yield potential. However, when growing hydroponically, the root system has the opportunity to work more efficiently, as there is no buffer for nutrient absorption from the solution. Five gallon sized “bucket systems” work very well in this regard, although can be larger or smaller depending on the genetics of the crop and the plant spacing allotted. Typically beneficial fungi and bacteria are applied during the first few weeks of flowering when growing more conventional indoor plant varieties. This is still a good practice with longer flowering varieties, although every few weeks during the flowering cycle the beneficials should be reapplied to promote healthy microbiology in the plant and growth medium. Because unruly varieties often require longer flowering periods, the extra volume of growing medium may help to buffer the effects of longer crop feeding durations in soil and soilless grown plants. Otherwise, without very precise control and knowledge over nutrient applications, nutrient build-ups could reach toxic proportions in smaller volumes of growth medium used for longer cropping durations. To really bring out the best exotic tastes and aromas in soil and soilless grown unruly plants, don’t apply any base nutrients for the last few weeks, assuming a 10+week cropping cycle. Digestive enzymes, humates and fulvates can be applied for up to one week before harvest, while the final week should consist of digestive enzymes and water or plain water only. There is certainly much more to be learned than the five tips offered above in “taming the beast” indoors, however, they can provide a good platform to develop or to help perfect your cropping style for growing less conventional but high yielding fruit and vegetable strains of exotic quality. MY Erik’s tips for taming the beast can be found by visiting maximumyield.com and clicking on Online Extras.
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TIPS & TRICKS
How to Grow an
Avocado by Emma Cooper
Growing an avocado from a pit (or stone) is an interesting project and a fun way to grow an attractive houseplant.
To grow an avocado: 1
Find a ripe avocado. Avocado pits are most likely to grow if they come from a ripe fruit. When you eat the avocado pear, clean off the pit and soak it for 48 hours in warm water. If you can keep the water warm (in a propagator or on top of a heater), the pit will grow more quickly.
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Find the top. Most avocado pits are egg-shaped, with the bottom broader than the top. Some are rounder, but the top is always smooth and the bottom, wrinkled.
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Find a container. If you want to see the roots grow, you will need a clear container, such as a tumbler or a jar. Otherwise, a plant pot will do fine.
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Plant your pit. To see the roots grow, you need to suspend the pit above water. Find three or four toothpicks or hair pins and push them into the pit gently until they will just support its weight. Then fill the container with warm water so that the bottom of the pit just touches the water. If you're using a plant pot, then bury the pit in potting compost so that half of the pit is still above the soil. Keep warm. Warmth is the key to getting an avocado pit to grow. The ideal temperature is around 70째F. At this temperature, the pit should start to grow in around 10 days. At cooler temperatures, it can take five weeks.
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Keep watered. Keep the water level in your container topped up so that the pit is just touching the water. If you planted your pit in compost, then keep it moist. Putting it in a plastic bag will help. Keep an eye out for growth. The first sign of life will be root growth, which will not be visible if your pit is planted in compost. Only when the roots have started to grow will the pit send out a shoot. If the water turns cloudy and starts to smell before this happens, then your pit will not grow. If this happens, it probably wasn't fertile to begin with, and you should start again with a fresh pit.
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8
Pinch out the main shoot when it is six inches long. This is to help make a bushy plant rather than a tall tree. It may leave your avocado with no leaves, but don't worry, it will grow a new shoot and new leaves in about a week.
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Re-pot. Your avocado plant can survive on just water for several weeks. When the roots are well developed, plant the avocado in potting soil in a small pot. It will be happy there for several months.
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Move into a final pot. When the avocado looks too large for its pot, or unhappy, it is time to replant it in a 10 inch pot, which will be its permanent home. It will probably be two feet tall before this is necessary.
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Pruning. Your avocado wants to grow into a tree, and you will need to keep pruning it to keep it bushy and manageable. Simply cut back shoots that are too long.
Ongoing maintenance involves feeding with liquid feed every two weeks when the avocado is actively growing. Every three or four years, replant it in the same pot with some fresh potting soil.Your avocado will need plenty of light MY and water plus an occasional misting and dusting.
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About the Author: Emma Cooper produces a weekly podcast (internet radio show) called The Alternative Kitchen Garden.You can read regular updates on her garden on her blog, http://coopette.com/blog
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Automated Climate Control the Right Way
Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé Whether it is a simple past-time or your source of income, indoor gardening requires time and effort in order to achieve worthwhile results! In an enclosed environment in which one hopes to maintain ideal growing conditions at all times, it becomes necessary to manually control the climate; this requires supervision and, therefore, a nearly constant presence in the garden. It is for this reason that automation can be helpful. In addition to reducing the number and frequency of visits to the garden, automated control considerably reduces your work time, and allows you greater flexibility; and the benefits don’t stop there! Automating your garden creates much more stable conditions, accurately meeting plant’s needs and allowing for considerable energy savings. Timers: the first step towards automation A timer activates or deactivates a device based on time, more specifically, based on the time of day or on cycles. Timers are particularly efficient for setting irrigation and lighting cycles, which are usually constant and minimally influenced by other garden conditions. There are even multitimers available on the market, which are capable of simultaneously coordinating irrigation, lighting and lamp cooling cycles and offer protection for equipment and plants. Timers are not recommended for controlling equipment used to maintain climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, CO2 concentration). The purpose of devices used for heating, humidification, CO2 enrichment, etc., is to regulate the climate according to specific levels (e.g.: 75°F, 50 per cent relative humidity, 1,200 ppm of CO2). A timer, used for this kind of device is undependable and does not take into account existing garden conditions; the chances of establishing a climate that is stable and adapted to plant needs are, as it were, nil. Fortunately, certain devices have been designed specifically for climate control.
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This kind of control is very efficient at maintaining stable and precise garden conditions. There are at least three categories of controllers: specific, integrated and coordinated modulars.
Equipped with a sensor that measures ambient conditions, the controller activates or deactivates a climate-correcting device according to levels set by the user. The given setting is generally accompanied by a differential in order to avoid continuous starting and stopping of the climate-correcting device in a short lapse of time. Take for example a controller connected to a CO2 generator set to 1,200 parts per million (ppm), with differentials high and low set at 200 ppm. The sensor regularly measures the concentration of CO2 in the garden. When the concentration drops below 1,000 ppm, the controller activates the CO2 generator. When the concentration exceeds 1,400 ppm, the CO2 generator is stopped by the controller.
The specific controller The specific controller manages a single climate parameter and a single device at a time. A specific temperature controller, or thermostat, can control either a heater or an air-conditioner, but not both. The same goes for all other parameters. This type of controller, though inexpensive, yields results that are proportionate to the invested sum. Thinking they are saving money, some people choose to manage several climatic parameters by means of specific controllers. This requires as many specific controllers as there are devices to control. Often disadvantageous on a financial level, such a choice is also
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Automated Climate Control The Right Way unwise on a management level. It is very difficult to coordinate the levels and differentials of the various devices to avoid opposite actions. For example, if one were using a thermostat to cool and another to heat, it would be necessary to set the levels and the differentials to sufficiently different temperatures to prevent the two devices from running at the same time. And even then, nothing is guaranteed, seeing as other factors, such as the calibration of sensors, can complicate things. In some situations, it is even impossible to avoid opposite actions. This is the case when cooling the garden using an air exhaust fan, and enriching CO2 levels with the help of a bottle or a generator, where each device is being controlled by a separate controller. Each controller starts up the device under its control as needed, regardless of whether the other device is functioning at the same time. It is, therefore, very likely that the exhaust fan will activate at the same time as the CO2 generator, which will lead to the loss of CO2 to the outside environment. What a waste! Specific controllers are better than nothing, but fortunately, more sophisticated controllers exist.
“The [integrated] controller prioritizes its actions according to a logistical sequence.” The integrated controller Why use several controllers when one will suffice in assuring optimal management of your garden’s climate? Multifunctional, the integrated controller allows for the management of several climatic parameters at once. Whether you need to heat, cool, humidify, dehumidify or enrich the environment with CO2, the controller prioritizes its actions according to a logical sequence, which takes into account all parameters being controlled. Opposite or incompatible actions are therefore 100 per cent avoided, and this, without any effort from the user.
Integrated contollers offer stable and precise climatic conditions to better meet plants’ needs.
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Automated Climate Control The Right Way In addition, the stable and precise climatic conditions obtained thanks to this type of control offer plants a narrow comfort zone that better meets their needs. On a financial level, the purchase of just one integrated controller is often more advantageous than the purchase of several specific controllers.
USHIO
Coordinated modular controllers - the height of automation What if we were able to gradually equip ourselves with specific controllers capable of intercommunicating? In the near future, coordinated modular controllers will be able to do even better than that. Each individual coordinated modular controller will be able to manage one climatic parameter, such as temperature, humidity or CO2. As opposed to a specific controller, a modular controller will be able to manage several aspects of a single parameter; in the case of a modular temperature controller, this will mean heating, cooling and venting control with the use of a single controller. Together, these controllers will be able to exchange information, and as such, intelligently manage several climate parameters at once. It will therefore become possible to gradually build a system that is both complete and intelligent.
“[Modular controllers] will be able to exchane information and... intelligently manage several climate parameters at once.�
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Automated Climate Control The Right Way
Choosing the right controller Faced with the range of control devices available on the market, it is a challenge to decide on one particular model that would be efficient. An informative decision rests first on a precise evaluation of your needs and priorities, which are established according to the type of garden in question as well as the species of plants being cultivated. Here are a few key questions to help guide your decision:
Once these questions have been answered, the type of controller required is usually obvious. Automated climate control in an indoor garden calls for a bit of time and money at first, but the gains will be worth it. Plants that are cultivated in an environment that is stable and ideal for growth will thank you with quality and abundant yields. And that’s not even counting the hours of work you’ll save and be able to dedicate to your life outside your garden. Will you step into the age of automation? MY
• Which climatic parameters do I wish to control in my garden? The temperature? The humidity? The CO2 concentration? A combination of two or three of these parameters? • Which devices will be used to regulate the climate and control air-conditioning, heat, humidity, dehumidification, CO2 generation, etc.)? • Do I want to equip myself gradually or proceed directly to purchasing a complete controller? What’s my budget? Visit maximumyield.com and click on Online Extras for a few potential scenarios and solutions that could be helpful in choosing the right controller.
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The concept of indoor gardening has been around since the Roman times. This is because one of the Roman emperors, named Tiberius, liked to eat a cucumber-like fruit everyday. The fruit was seasonal and was not available the whole year. A garden greenhouse made it possible to harvest this fruit for the emperor. A garden greenhouse is a structure made of glass or plastic that is used to grow and maintain seasonal plants. They allow sunlight to enter the space and bring in the heat and light that are needed in growing plants or crops. Two reasons why people build garden greenhouses are (i) to grow seasonal plants and earn money, and (ii) to grow seasonal plants for personal consumption. One of the factors that you should consider if you want to maintain a garden greenhouse is the variety of the plants that you can grow. Every plant has different characteristics. And if you want to have a healthy harvest, then you really have to study the plants that you choose to grow. Growing plants, whether indoors or out, is a product of different environmental factors. These may include the right amount of light, adequate water supply and the right temperature (some crops don’t grow outside of specific temperature ranges). Building your own garden greenhouse is a good solution to some of the gardening problems faced when trying to grow produce or flowers out of season, like light and temperature. New grow tents are an excellent alternative to a garden greenhouse. These slick units work well and offer an easy to assemble, greenhouse environment for you to grow in.
Homegrown Goodness with a Garden Greenhouse or Grow Tent
GREEN THUMB GARDENING
So if you want to enjoy your favorite fruits and vegetables year round, run, don’t walk, to the nearest greenhouse supply or indoor gardening retail store. Find out what grrenhouse or grow tent is best for you and get growing your own food and enjoy continuous, fresh harvests all year long! MY
1. Know your alternatives. There are different kinds of greenhouses that you can choose from according to your budget and what you need. There are also many different sizes that you can choose from for your growing needs. There are large garden greenhouses that are mostly used in growing seasonal crops or flowers to be sold later, and there are mini-greenhouses for growing plants for personal use. 2. Make sure that you have all the material needed to construct your garden greenhouse, or you can purchase a greenhouse kit or grow tent from any indoor garden supply store. 3. Decide what you want to grow in your garden greenhouse.
FOREVER FLOWERING AD MONDAY
1. Control the temperature in the space. With a garden greenhouse, make sure you have the right number of air ducts. In the case of grow tents, many are thermally protected reflecting the majority of radiant heat for superior insulation and some also include adjustable fans and ducting attachments making them extremely versatile. 2. Water your plants adequately. 3. Root out unnecessary plants and grasses that are growing in your garden greenhouse. They are sucking the nutrients from your plants. 4. Use sticks or canes on plants that need support. 5. Maintain the right amount of light. 6. Clean both the interior and exterior of your garden greenhouse or grow tent regularly. 7. Examine your plants for any pests as they will need to be taken care of immediately to avoid a unhealthy crop.
Here is how to maintain your indoor plants in the greenhouse:
Here are some tips that you can use if you want to have a garden greenhouse:
The Real Organic Hydroponics by Luis Bartolo
Organic hydroponics. This, the ultimate combination of control (hydroponics) and tasty, Earth-friendly garden“Soil microbiology and organic elements combine ing practices (organics) is but a dream for many gardentogether in a living explosion of decomposition, ers. It offers the ideal solution and could be the ultimate magically working together to create growing system. There have been claims over the years by many who would have us believe that the solution is here new life forms.� already, and we only need to buy their product to accomplish the task. However, this isn’t the case and we may still forms. Water alone cannot provide this function. There needs be a long way from finding a truly workable solution. There has to be a basis for the catalyst to happen in order to create the been much trial and error in the process and a suitable formulae active micro life necessary for organic plant health and growth. has not yet been found that is wholly organic whilst remaining Organic substances left in water are not able to be stabilized, reliable and workable in a hydroponic environment. nor are they able to catalyze with each other. After a time they So is organic hydroponics possible? So far the answer is will deteriorate and even become stagnant and harmful to the uncertain. Organic substances by their very nature need to be plant. Guanos and fish products especially become very noxious alive and have the ability to combine with other organic elesmelling and difficult to deal with. Try it and see for yourself, ments in order to function at their best. Soil microbiology and but remember you have been warned here first! organic elements combine together in a living explosion of Experimenters have also tried using active compost teas and regular organic fertilizers in reservoir tanks combined with decomposition, magically working together to create new life 86
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air pumps and bubblers in an attempt to keep the mixture active. Used with other soilless mediums such as coco or pebbles this can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is not only defeating the object of automation, but also costing more money in wasted fertilizer. It’s also not eco-friendly, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place. Another system of so-called organic hydroponics includes having pots of soil suspended in a flood and drain or NFT system. The top layer of the pot contains soil or a compost mix with rocks or gravel at the bottom to prevent the medium leaching into the water. But the reservoir tank will only be able to contain water with possibly the addition of organic bio-stimulants. The actual feeding of the organic nutrients would still have to be done from the top by hand. Up to a point this could prove successful as the organic catalyst process will then take place between the soil and the nutrients contained at the top layer of the pot, much like in the case of conventional pot growing systems. Essentially then this method would just function as a sophisticated watering system and is not really worth the trouble or the expense. It is a nice experiment and functions quite well; it’s likely as far into organic hydroponics as we are going to get for now. However, in this example soil is still used and as we have discovered still requires top dressing as feed in order to keep the micro-organisms in the medium functioning. It is not soilless or automated and, therefore, not hydroponic in the traditional sense.
A living explosion of decomposition Organic substances suspended in water are unable to stabilize and, over time, will deteriorate, becoming harmful to the plants.
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than their chemical counterparts. Still this does not provide us with a complete solution. One of the main reasons for organic cultivation is the quality and taste of the end product; hydroponics cannot provide this no matter how pure the nutrients are. Bio-stimulants do improve the overall health of the plant when used in this way and serve as an ecologically-sound alternative to an otherwise predominantly chemical system.
Reservoir Tanks Soilless mediums such as coco or pebbles can work up to a point but unlike most chemical/ mineral hydroponic operations the solution will need changing on a regular basis. This is a costly and potentially environmentally harmful solution, which defeats the objective of being organic in the first place.
So now we have established the scientific facts that organic hydroponics isn’t yet possible. So how are we to progress and what methods from either system can we utilize for the best results? Is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional or usable? This is a matter of much interest and research within our industry and research and development continues in this direction.
Meanwhile, certain bio-stimulants and energy boosters are available that can be used in standard hydroponic systems. These remain stable and usable in water and do not interfere with the EC measurements in any way. Organically certified substances such as those based on fulvic and humate acids and certain aminos can be used where they function incredibly well and in many cases perform better
“We have established the scientific facts that organic hydroponics isn't yet possible...[but] is it possible to take elements from both and make them more functional?�
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something fishy Fish and seaweed emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant. This application supplies an enhanced cholorphyll content and trace elements of organic origin.
Another way of bringing your hydroponic crops closer to organic and also improve the flavor of the end product is through the use of foliar applications. Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant. This also enhances chlorophyll content and supplies trace elements of organic origin. Some composting preparations such as worm cast tea can also be used in this way. In the same way soil or compost-grown crops are fed, the results are immediate and hugely beneficial. Foliar applications of fish emulsion on plants grown hydroponically show the same improved grow rates as their conventional sisters in a pot or the earth. Similarly seaweed applications serve as a rescue remedy to poor or sick plants just as they would in the soil. So it can be said that certain elements of organics can be incorporated into hydroponics. The solution is not perfect but it is the best we have for now. One thing is for sure we have to continue our quest to find the perfect combination, for us, our society and Mother Earth. MY
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Understanding and using
trichoderma fungi by Donald Lester
There are many species of fungi, bacteria, viruses and protozoa commercially available for the biological control of insects, diseases and weeds. Some products offer mixtures of different organisms. This article will cover one particularly easy-to-use type of fungi that occurs naturally in soil and helps control soil diseases and break down crop residues to makes otherwise unavailable soil nutrients available to plants—trichoderma. Trichoderma fungi have many positive effects on plants: increased growth and yield, increased nutrient uptake, increased fertilizer utilization efficiency, increased percentage and rate of seed germination and induced systemic resistance to plant diseases (Harman et al., 2004). Moreover, their use as biological control agents is due to their modes of action: competition, parasitism, production of inhibitory compounds and enzymes or inactivation of the pathogen’s enzyme systems. Trichoderma actively takes over a root zone and makes it difficult for pathogens to compete for space on the roots and for nutrients. And in terms of parasitism, trichoderma coils around the hyphae of pathogenic fungi and then produces enzymes to dissolve the pathogen’s cell walls. There is another kind of beneficial fungi that is commercially available to growers and also covers the roots to physically prevent disease infection and make nutrients available to the roots—mycorrhizae. People often confuse the two fungi but mycorrhizal fungi are not parasitic like trichoderma fungi. Trichoderma fungi produce powerful enzymes to dissolve crop residues and attack soil pathogens like pythium, fusarium, and rhizoctonia. Trichoderma produces two main types of enzymes:
cellulase and chitinase. Cellulose is a major component in plant fibers and crop residues. The enzyme cellulase breaks down cellulose. Similarly, chitin is a structural component in fungal cell walls. It is a strong material that is also a key component in insect exoskeletons. The enzyme chitinase breaks down chitin though trichoderma is not known to attack insects. Trichoderma switches back and forth on which enzymes to produce depending on the type of food source available. For example, when fresh bark is used in composts, trichoderma fungi do not directly attack the plant pathogen rhizoctonia solani. But, in decomposing bark the amount of readily available cellulose decreases, which activates the chitinase genes of trichoderma, which in turn produce chitinase to parasitize rhizoctonia solani (Benhamou and Chet 1997). What this means is that in the spring time when temperatures are low and pathogen activity is low trichoderma will feed on the readily available cellulose from crop residues. Later in the season when the crop residues are exhausted and the pathogen load has increased trichoderma will switch over to parasitizing the pathogens. It should be emphasized that the enzymes produced by trichoderma are industrial strength compounds. Many people are unaware that their stone washed blue jeans are made using trichoderma. There is no such thing as a true stone washed blue jean because no stones are used in the manufacturing process. Rather, the manufacturer puts denim jeans into a vat of trichoderma reesii until the cellulase enzymes break down the denim to give the desired, faded, worn appearance (University of Wisconsin).
“Trichoderma actively takes over a root zone and makes it difficult for pathogens to compete for space on the roots and for nutrients.”
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Many people are unaware that their stone washed blue jeans are made using trichoderma.
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Understanding and using trichoderma fungi
Trichoderma does have a bad side. It is not only a powerful biological control agent, but it is a major pest in commercial mushroom production. There it is known as “green mold.” The powerful enzyme chitinase produced by trichoderma creates big problems in commercial mushroom farms. If trichoderma exists naturally in the soil then why should you have to add more of what is already there? Trichoderma fungi in nature are lost due to soil disturbances such as mining, construction or erosion; strong acid or chemical treatments; pesticides, excessive heat, drought or flooding; and denial of oxygen or water by asphalt, concrete, soil compaction and roads. In indoor gardens trichoderma should be added to potting soils to restore healthy population levels lost due to soil sterilization, the use of strong chemical sanitizers, waterlogged soils low in oxygen and excessive fertilization. The optimum temperature range for trichoderma harzianum is between 86 to 100oF, whereas trichoderma koningii has an optimal range between 90 to 95°F (Danielson and Davey). Once soil temperatures exceed 59°F, this is the best timing for trichoderma to be introduced into the soil. Trichoderma has a lifecycle of about 28 days. It is self replicating but like any lifecycle it becomes weak. Therefore, it is necessary to re-apply the product to maintain strength. Trichoderma is non-toxic to plants so there is no danger of over application or phytotoxicity. Trichoderma fungi work well as soil inoculants. If using
“If using trichoderma as a disease control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early.” trichoderma as a disease control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early. If trichoderma are applied too late then the results will be disappointing. Trichoderma fungi are not a miracle cure, but with proper usage and realistic expectations you can have trichoderma working for you. Listed to the right are some general guidelines and expectations for using trichoderma in various greenhouse and hydroponic environments. As with any product, strict adherence to the label instructions is necessary for optimum performance.
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Aeroponics and Hydroponics Trichoderma use in aeroponic and hydroponic systems can eventually form a fibrous mat that can block pipes and nozzles used to irrigate the plants. Removal of this material is a time consuming process, which involves temporarily dismantling the irrigation system pipes and spaghetti tubing. In warmer weather this needs to be done frequently.
Transplanting into Containers Apply granules or liquid formulation directly into the planting hole making sure that the root ball has good contact with the trichoderma. As the plants grow maintenance applications can be applied as granules to the soil surface or soil drenches. A soil drenching solution can be prepared from bulk granules by soaking the granules in water for several hours to release the organisms and activate them. This liquid can then be used as a soil drench. The activation process brings trichoderma out of its dormant stage so it will be actively growing. Once activated trichoderma should be applied within 24 hours.
Mix with Growing Media Many commercial potting mixes already contain trichoderma fungi. However, bulk granules of trichoderma can be mixed in with the soil before transplanting. Or trichoderma can be applied to the soil surface after transplanting, in the same manner as application of a granular fertilizer. Incorporation of trichoderma fungi is especially important in sterilized soils to restore or establish a population of beneficial micro-organisms to out-compete pathogens. Trichoderma are aerobic, meaning they require oxygen, so it is best not to waterlog the growing media for too long.
Bare Root Bare root plants can be dipped into solutions containing trichoderma fungi that have been pre-activated. Trichoderma fungi are compatible with most common commercial rooting powders and water-absorbent gels. Granules can also be soaked in water for a few hours with the water being used as a base for a dipping solution.
Sawdust Trichoderma will produce the enzyme cellulase and feed on the most available food source, in this case the sawdust itself. In fact, trichoderma is often used as a compost addition in conventional gardening systems to break down straw, sawdust and other fibrous materials. So, trichoderma is not recommended as an augmentation to sawdust bags or sawdust-based media.
Sand Culture Trichoderma will not be self-sustaining in sand culture because of the limited food supply. Since there is relatively low amounts of organic matter in sand, trichoderma will suffer because there is nothing for the cellulase enzymes to work on. The only other source of food for trichoderma would be pathogens that the chitinase enzymes can break down. But when the pathogens are gone trichoderma is once again left without a food supply.
Seeding Seeds can be placed in direct contact with trichoderma at planting time. This ensures that the young roots are colonized early on for protection against water mold root rots like pythium and phytophthora. However, be sure that the trichoderma are compatible with any fungicides that may be used as seed treatments or applied with the seed.
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Understanding and using trichoderma fungi
Shopping for Trichoderma Fungi There are a lot of trichoderma products on the market today. Growers are often wary of new products that suddenly appear on the market and appear to be copycats of more well known products. Here are some features and specifications to look for when buying trichoderma products. • Look for stable formulations. • Look for combinations of trichoderma species in one product. • Look for a guaranteed analysis on the label. • Shelf life is important. • Do your homework and see how long the product has been on the market. • Look for products that operate over a wide range of temperatures. • Make sure the trichoderma product is organically certified.
In general the favorable conditions in which to apply trichoderma are: • moderate moisture (no flooding or drought) • temperatures between 59 to 90°F • morning or evening application • high soil organic matter content (or humic acid) • pH range of 5.5 to 8.5 • low chlorine* *Trichoderma can be sensitive to high concentrations of chlorine. It is best to allow water with a strong smell of chlorine to sit out overnight exposed to the air to let the chlorine dissipate before use with trichoderma.
Incorporating trichoderma into your indoor garden or growing operation is easy, safe and environmentally friendly. Look for trichoderma fungi products in your gardening catalog, local nursery or garden center. By using trichoderma you will be promoting a more balanced population of naturally occurring soil micro-organisms, and at the same time reducing your use of harsh, toxic chemicals. And you will save yourself costly and worrisome disposal problems associated with chemical alternatives. Now that you’ve learned a little about trichoderma perhaps you will feel more confident in buying and using trichoderma fungi MY in your garden, greenhouse or indoor garden.
For a detailed list of tips when shopping for Trichhoderma fungi visit www.maximumyield.com
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Healing with Food A Hydroponicist’s Perspective by Evan Folds "On every level we have removed the magic and replaced it with materialism." 96
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As humans, we tend to consider ourselves the most central entity in the universe. It’s called anthropocentrism and it is rampant in modern society. We think we have the world under our thumbs, and we have screwed it up in the process. Take artificial fertilizers, nuclear bombs, water fluoridation, table salt, clear cutting virgin forests for paper, pharmaceuticals and processed foods. On every level we have removed the magic and replaced it with materialism. We’re experiencing a general degeneration in modern society as a result of this self-centeredness. Many are fond of throwing around the increasing life expectancy as proof of the efficacy of a pharmaceutical society, but they are fooling themselves. We may be living longer, but we aren’t living better. Weston Price proved this with his landmark work “Nutrition & Physical Degeneration: A Comparison of Primitive and Modern Diets and Their Effects” (1939). Price was a dentist and became interested in health through his observation of a progressive degeneration in dental health and jaw formation. Price compared people of the same genetic origin who maintained different eating habits. The native diets of the Inuit in Canada, Aboriginal Australians and African tribes altered as the Western world slowly encroached. The developing world was being infiltrated by NaCl table salt, white flour and sugar under the guise of “food.” The consequences of this seemingly simple diet change were staggering. Price noted a drastic increase in incidences of tooth decay and deformation in the people who began eating the Western diet relative to the people who remained on the primitive diet. In a very real sense, the entire profession of general dentistry and orthodontics was created by food lacking nutritional value.
“Price noted a drastic increase in incidences of tooth decay and deformation in the people who began eating the Western diet relative to the people who remained on the primitive diet.”
Weston Price
Author of “Nutrition & Physical Degeneration: A Comparison of Primitive and Modern Diets and Their Effects”
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compensate for our misguided ways than trying to get to the root of our problems. We take for granted that the human body is an alchemist and is not meant to be sick. It’s easy to be cynical and point fingers at those who appear responsible,
We are creating the problems that we are trying to eliminate. There are 76 million cases of food poisoning each year in the United States, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevent (CDC). A whopping 80 per cent of cancers are attributable to diet and environmental toxins. The companies that produce these empty and processed foods
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receive $90 to $100 billion plus each year in federal subsidies. Industrial Big Ag uses almost 85 per cent of available fresh water. The result of this is that the US spends $2.5 trillion on health care each year with over $800 billion of it a direct result of the above. Reading statistics like this is infuriating. We spend more energy trying to
“A whopping 80 per cent of cancers are attributable to diet and environmental toxins.” but the more effective antidote is to grow the food that you eat, or at the least, utilize your buying power to encourage the type of world you want to live in. If everyone purchased goods in a manner that reinforced their ideals the world would change tomorrow.
Healing With Food
We in the indoor gardening community sit in a unique position of opportunity. We may come from humble roots, but we have the opportunity to wield great power in the not so distant future if we play our cards correctly.Very seriously, the technologies that we are working with have the capability to empower people to make sense of their own personal agriculture. We can save the world. Groups such as the Progressive Gardening Trade Association (PGTA, www.ProgressiveGardening.org, www.PGTA.org) and the Institute for Simplified Hydroponics (www.Carbon.org) are planting seeds that can help change the collective perspective that there is nothing that can be done about the coming global crises we now face.
“...the technologies that we are working with have the capability to empower people to make sense of their own personal agriculture.” The answer to our troubles lies in proper perspective. If we continue to believe that we have it all figured out then we will never get to where we need to be. When a homeowner makes the connection that the budget fertilizers they have been feeding their lawn are nothing more than fast food, their actions change. Rather than try to kill what they don’t want, they begin to encourage what they do want. They understand that they cannot eliminate the weeds, pests and disease created by this bad diet with more of the same bad diet. The change in perspective changes actions. Don’t get me wrong, technology is not bad. It is what allows us to maintain our existence outside of natural evolutionary population limits. We’ve domesticated and technologized our way into a serious imbalance in the world via egolution and now we must use our ingenuity to extract ourselves.
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Healing With Food: A Hydroponicist’s Perspective
It is this power over nature that defines our existence and it is this same power that can take it away. We begin to lose our grip when we imagine that plants only need a certain number of elements to thrive, or that we imagine we can understand what a plant truly needs. The result is us growing plants for what they require, rather than what we require from them. This is a fundamental disconnect in agricultural policy. Plants do not need what we need from them, so if we limit what they can eat, humans suffer. We’re only considering half the story. We are immersed in a supersensible arena without the senses to experience it. Rudolph Steiner offered a way into this world more effectively than most visionaries of the past. His worldview of anthroposophy and contributions to agriculture called “biodynamics” are sources of great wisdom, but are known by only a few. In his words: The grow room is the quintessential representation of anthropocentrism. It is a perfect example of how humans take life into their own hands, as we are not bound by our biological limitations or primal instinct. We manipulate our environment, unlike plants and all non-domesticated animals that remain under the manipulation of the natural world.
“Human beings inhale oxygen, assimilate it and subsequently combine it with carbon which is finally exhaled as carbon dioxide, while in plants, which absorb carbon to sustain themselves, the reverse is true.” “We must realize that plants represent the direct antithesis of human being, and the animals represent the mean between the two. The external physical expression of this contrast is to be found in the breathing process. It is a familiar fact that human beings inhale oxygen, assimilate it and subsequently combine it with carbon which is finally exhaled as carbon dioxide, while in plants, which absorb carbon to sustain themselves, the reverse is true. In a sense, plants also breathe but their breathing process has a completely different significance for them. Hence, we can say that in a spiritual respect plants and human beings stand opposite each other.” (9-10, Nutrition).
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Healing With Food: A Hydroponicist’s Perspective
We’re used to thinking about this idea, but rarely do we apply it in a spiritual context. What does it mean that plants are the yin to the human yang? Building on Steiner’s influence, Rudolph Hauschka offers a more direct assessment of the relationships between humans and plants. In his work “The Nature of Substance,” Hauschka offers the idea that the same formative forces are alive in the root system of plants as are active in the human head. He goes on to explain, “forces similar to those active in the blossom principle are found in man’s will and his metabolism. And the forces that build stalk and foliage work in human feeling, and in the rhythmic system centrally located between head and limbs. It can be assumed that root substances taken as foods act upon the brain and nervous system; that products of the flowering and fruiting parts of plants affect the metabolism; and that leafy matter stimulates breathing and circulation” (31).
"...the same formative forces are alive in the root system of plants as are active in the human head. " Plants and humans may be opposites, and thankfully so, but they also take advantage of similar forces and processes; they meet in the middle. Consider that the human gut is no different than the compost pile in the backyard. In fact, some of the same organisms are involved. The reason we turn a compost pile is to encourage aerobic organisms in the same way that blood oxygen generally defines human health. It has actually been proven that cancer cannot grow in the presence of proper blood oxygen; look into Otto Warburg and his 1931 Nobel Prize. The seers of yore—such as Goethe, Rudolph Steiner, Viktor Schuaberger and Rudolph Hauschka—saw the world in its natural spiritual brilliance. They moved past mere materialism and relied more on their intuition than the crippling data points of the modern world. They were vilified by the powers that be of their age for working against the burgeoning industrial framework, but modern times are increasingly defined by information flow and the time has come to bring this light into the dark. The sooner we can begin to incorporate these ideas into our grow rooms the sooner we MY can begin growing plants that do us justice.
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Greenhouse Cucumbers Getting Plants to Produce Year-Round by James W. Brown Background and Focus Cucumber plants grown in a commercial greenhouse and in most hobby greenhouses are the producers of parthenocarpic or “seedless� cucumber fruit. Plant breeders developed these plants back in the days before bumblebees were used as pollinators in the greenhouse. This allowed for the greenhouse production of cucumbers without the laborious hand pollination process. Because there are separate male and female flowers on the cucumber plant, the hand pollination process is much more complicated and time consuming than for tomato flowers, which have both male and female parts in the same flower.
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European cucumbers, English cucumbers or long seedless cucumbers have been available in the produce market for well over 25 years. They have become popular with many consumers because of the absence of developed seeds. Among those people who experience intestinal gas from eating regular cucumbers, most do not have the same unpleasant experience when they have eaten the seedless cucumber. This is why these cucumbers are sometimes referred to as “burpless.” Because the cucumber skin is thin and fairly transparent to water, European cucumbers are wrapped for marketing. This is done to keep them crisp. Water loss would allow them to get flexible and rubbery. Wrapping the fruit with plastic or placing it in a plastic bag and expelling most of the air will help you keep your cucumbers fresh and crisp outside the refrigerator for a few days. Bata Alphas, Asians or mini cucumbers are also seedless cucumbers. The size and appearance of this cucumber is more like the traditional field or garden cucumber. Some people are not wrapping them because the skin is a little more resistant to the loss of water than is the European cucumber. Two, three or four of the beta alpha cucumbers are sometimes over-wrapped in the grocery store on a Styrofoam boat. Starting Young Cucumber Plants Young seedless cucumber plants are started in the greenhouse from seeds. The F-1 Hybrid seeds have been bred to develop plants that will produce fruit without having the seeds in them set and developed. These greenhouse grown plants do not have the ability to produce pollen-bearing male flowers. No pollination is necessary or even possible within the greenhouse where seedless cucumbers are being grown. Cucumber seeds germinate within a couple days if they are moist and warm. The seeds should be germinated at 70 to 80°F. The higher the temperature within that range, the quicker the seeds will germinate. Commercial growers often use heat mats to elevate the temperature in the germinating media. This assures more rapid and uniform germination. The seeds all germinate within a shorter period of time and the young plants are closer to being the same size. When a bonded germinating media like rockwool is used, the cucumber seed must be placed into the seed hole with the end down that was attached to the fruit when it was being produced. This is the end out of which the radical or young root will emerge. If the root is heading up when it emerges, it will turn and grow down. Once the root is established in the media, the curve in the stem straightens. In soil, the cotyledons would be pulled up out of the soil and the seed coat. In rockwool and other bonded media, the stem of the plant below the cotyledons is often broken. That can all be avoided by placing the rootproducing end of the seed down into the seed hole first. Plenty of light should be provided for the young plants as they emerge. This can be accomplished by setting them in direct sunlight as long as the temperature in the media does not exceed 80°F. Artificial light can also be used if it is strong MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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Beta Alpha seedless cucumbers ready to start enlarging.
and close enough. Florescent lights should be within three their own light space or leave any room for the expanding true to four inches of the media. High Intensity Discharge (HID) leaf. Undesirable stem elongation will occur if the plants are not lights should be far enough away so as not to get the media separated and given more light space. The elongated stems will too warm. This will usually be four to six feet away depending be thinner and weaker than they would have been if they had on the size of the light. not been stretched. Because cucumber seeds germinate so rapidly, it is good to Fertilizer solution should be added by the time the cotylehave light on them from the beginning of the process. If a dons are spread above the starting media that has no initial seed germinates at night, it will elongate until it reaches light. fertilizer starting charge. Many mediums including rockwool More compact plants can be and perlite do not have a produced by providing light fertilizer starter charge. Some 24 hours a day until the seeds growers use fertilizer from “Because cucumber seeds have germinated and the the time they drop the seeds. germinate so rapidly, it is good cotyledons are spread above That is acceptable. The main to have light on them from the the media. It is important to thing is to have fertilizer reduce the length of the light available for the plants when beginning of the process.� period to a more normal day the cotyledons are ready to length shortly after the plants start photosynthesizing. The have germinated. A continuous light exposure of fairly young strength of the fertilizer solution should be about half of what plants and older plants can confuse them. When plants get conwould be used for most plants. A solution with an electrical fused, they do not grow and produce properly. conductivity of 1.0 millimho per 0.4 inches is adequate to get the young plants started. Growing Young Seedless Cucumber Plants Although the young plants can be kept in a nursery area where Once the cucumber seed has germinated, the young plant they are closer together than they would be in the production grows rapidly in comparison to other plants such as tomatoes area, they should be moved to their final location by the time or lettuce. If you are starting a number of cucumber plants in a they are about 10 days old. By this time, the plants should be media where they are spaced an inch and a half apart or closer, large enough to need support to stand upright. This support can they need to be separated and given more space by the time be provided by clipping or twist tying the plant stems to vertical the first true leaf has started to expand. With that spacing, there twine tied to an overhead support wire or part of the greenis not enough room for the cotyledons to flatten out and have house structure. Twist ties should first be twisted around the 108
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The “C” shaped fruit on a plant experiencing stress.
A fully developed “C” shaped cucumber on a plant that experienced some stress.
vine twine and then looped around the stem and twisted just below a leaf. Placing the clip or twist tie just below a leaf will help support the weight of the plant as it grows as long as the clip or tie is firmly attached to the twine so that it will not slip. Early Flower and Fruit Removal Seedless cucumber plants would not survive independently. Their survival is dependent on mankind including the seed company that developed and propagates the seeds and the grower who guides the plant growth and development. Unlike outdoor garden or field cucumber plants, seedless cucumber plants produce only female flowers. The first flower on the plant, therefore, is a female flower that could very well develop into a cucumber fruit if it were left on the plant. All flowers need to be removed up to about the tenth leaf on the main stem in order to allow the plant to concentrate on vegetative growth and development while it is still young. All side stems or suckers need to be removed from young plants. Tendrils are also removed when the sucker is removed so that they do not possibly wrap around and distort a developing cucumber. The first flowers on a field or garden cucumber plant are all male flowers. Besides assuring that there will be pollen around when the female flowers are developed in a week or so, the production of the male flowers allows the energy of the plant to be allocated to further vegetative plant growth and development. Because one of nature’s balances has been disturbed in the seedless cucumbers, the grower is left with the responsibility of removing early female flowers to allow for the needed plant growth and development. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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Aborted cucumber fruit.
The tendril has been removed from the node where the flower and sucker are. A tendril remains at the first node on the sucker.
Fruit Production and Older Plant Training Once fruit is allowed to remain and develop on the plant, the first harvest of a full grown cucumber is less than a week away. Both the European and the beta alpha or mini cucumbers develop very rapidly once they start to grow on the plant. Because the plant itself can grow very rapidly, several cucumbers can start to develop on the plant within two or three days. So that the fruit does not start to abort and not grow, every second or third cucumber flower should be removed from the plant as it grows up the support twine to a height of seven to eight feet. If the young plant loads up too quickly with fruit, it will shut down its commitment to fruiting. When it shuts down, a
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Cucumber plants in the greenhouse touch across the walking aisle as they reach the overhead support wire.
cucumber or two that has started to form will be abandoned by the plant. The fruit usually curls, at least a little, into a “C� shape. As the commitment by the plant is being shut off, the stem end of the fruit is filled out and develops almost normally. That development, however, tapers off rather quickly toward the blossom end of the fruit. The fruit development greatly slows and soon stops leaving a fruit that tapers off to the blossom end. The next two or three fruits on the plant will probably not be committed to by the plant. When the flower dries up, the fruit starts to dry up also and may become infected by a fungus. The number of fruit to which this happens will depend upon whether or not the grower takes corrective action. Once this is
The top fruit started to develop and was then aborted. It tapers and curves to the blossom end.
seen in the plant, the removal of fruit load from the plant will help correct the overload. A delay of such fruit removal by a day or two can prolong the plant’s unproductive response to the overload condition by several days. When the plant reaches the overhead support at the height of seven to eight feet, it is topped and a couple suckers or laterals are allowed to grow. This is done in several different ways by different growers. We will not discuss the different training methods here.
“A grower does not need to selectively remove cucumber fruit to prevent the plant from overloading and stopping the new fruit development process.� As the plant grows on from this stage, it is more capable of controlling its own fruit load without the long fruiting interruptions possible in young plants. A grower does not need to selectively remove cucumber fruit to prevent the plant from overloading and stopping the new fruit development process. The plant is capable of regulating its own fruit load without interruptions in production.You will still see fruit that have been side lined and not developed. They will occur one or two at a time rather than in strings of five or six. Leaving numerous unpicked cucumbers on the plants for several days can overload the plant. Fruit will be aborted as a result of the overload. This is one of the reasons for picking the fruit as often as once a day and at least once every other day. European cucumber plants keep growing and producing new stem growth longer than the beta alpha cucumber plants because they keep producing fruit only on new plant growth. The first two laterals mentioned above are each replaced by their first laterals or suckers, which are left to replace them MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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European seedless cucumbers ready to be picked. They are all fairly straight.
when the initial laterals reach the floor, are topped and finish production. By the time cucumbers are being set on the laterals of the beta alpha cucumber plants, fruit are again being set on at the nodes on the main stem of the plant
where cucumber fruit have already been produced. This slows the lateral growth of the plant. The plant will balance the continued growth of the laterals and the production of cucumbers on the older part of the plant.
Straight and Curved Cucumbers Cucumber fruit on both European and beta alpha plants will be fairly straight from the setting of flowers to the maturation of fruit if the plant is happy. When, however, the plant is under any form of stress, the cucumber fruit can be curved into a “C” shape. The stress can be from fruit load, out of range temperatures, nutritional imbalances, relative humidity swings, erratic weather patterns or any combination of less than desirable conditions. Parting Words on Cucumber Production The successful growing of seedless cucumbers in one’s greenhouse will elevate the casual greenhouse grower to the dedicated level. Plant development and production is more rapid in cucumber plants than in many other plants. The abundant supply of fresh cucumbers is compensation enough to one who appreciates good seedless cucumbers. Cucumber plants grow and produce rapidly when conditions are adequate. When light levels drop off in the middle of the fall season, cucumber plants will stop growing and producing once their needed light levels are no longer being met. MY
The differences between bumblebees as cucumber pollinators versus hand pollination is discussed on maximumyield.com
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by Lee McCall
small spaces
Big Yields part 2
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Conducting a side-by-side trial between soil and hydroponics requires consistent and precise techniques.Variables will fluctuate, and without careful focus from the gardener, the plant may not grow to its full potential. It is crucial that the growth techniques implemented conform to the specific crop’s needs. Research of the strain is recommended prior to initiating a grow. Correct moisture levels and frequent emptying of saucers and trays to prevent fungal development are imperative to the health of a new crop. In addition, pH values must be stable in the nutrient solution and PPMs (parts per million) should not exceed recommended values as dictated by the nutrient manufacturer.
“Environmental conditions must be carefully monitored to ensure growth is not stalled.” Environmental conditions must be carefully monitored to ensure growth is not stalled. The more that fluctuation occurs, the more the crop is held back. For this trial, the organic soil is a custom base blend of rich Alaskan composted forest humus, loam, peat moss and a small amount of premium coconut coir. Further amendments include worm castings for a subtle nutritional boost; greens—which provide a slow release of potassium and MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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other trace minerals; crab shell for an organic source of calcium; kelp meal rich in auxins, amino acids and enzymes; and bat guano, fish emulsion, bone meal, feather meal, soybean meal, perlite and pumice for aeration and drainage. Some growers prefer heavy amounts of perlite to soil ratios to increase drainage properties. I prefer less so the soil retains more moisture, which ultimately means less watering. For the farm buckets I have chosen to use my favorite hydroponic medium,
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silica rock. Also referred to as diatomite, this medium possesses high moisture retention characteristics absorbing as much as 150 per cent of its weight in water. The unicellular organism from which it is derived creates a very porous product allowing oxygen to penetrate the root zone resulting in healthier plants and greater nutritional uptake. The naturallyoccurring silicates strengthen cell wall structure and increase the crop’s natural defenses to stress factors in the garden such as fungal attacks, insect infestation,
drought from overheating and frost. A layer of hydroton will be applied to the top to deter algae growth on the bright surface of the silica rock. The temperature inside the grow room will largely depend on the “lung room.” The more control maintained over this area, the easier it will be to dictate the garden’s environment. If possible, use a room that has a window capable of housing a portable or window mount air conditioning unit. Portable grow rooms may dispel an excessive amount of heat, influencing the environment of the lungroom. A window mount, or mobile air conditioner will help cool down this area and displace old air exhausted from the garden. As long as a carbon filter is being implemented inside the garden, all of the air that is exchanged through the air conditioner should have effectively been cleaned of odor, pollen, dust and debris allowing for a clean exchange between outside and inside. This particular grow room is positioned in the foyer of my house and hopefully will never encounter
“Successful germination is also feasible under metal halide lamps, however, extra care might be required so as not to burn the tender sprouts from the strong light intensities.” a temperature above 70°F with the assistance of central air control. With such a low outside room temperature, it should be easier to maintain an internal temperature of approximately 80°F with the lights on inside the tent. I will strive to keep humidity levels at 40 to 50 per cent, and only implement the grow room carbon filter exhaust in order to sustain healthy CO2 levels. A 125 watt 6400K compact fluorescent light system and heat mat will be used to carry out the germination phase of the seedlings, and establish a healthy root system with strong cotyledon leaves. Heat mats provide temperature regulation and ensure that delicate seedlings are not exposed to temperature fluctuation during the initial phases of life. After all, temperature is an extremely important part of establishing healthy growth. Seedlings that are exposed to fluctuations between high and low temperatures during this time may have trouble developing due to low water uptake or negative pathogen activity. Successful
germination is also feasible under metal halide lamps, however, extra care might be required so as not to burn the tender sprouts from the strong light intensities. If used over fluorescents, maintain a greater distance from the seedling canopy to the lamp source for less risk of damaging
growth. Similar to metal halides, T-5 fluorescents work exceptionally well for both germination and vegetative growth in general. The low profile fixtures possess a relatively high lumen per watt output, displace tolerable amounts of heat that usually do not require separate
HM DIGITAL Quarter Page
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air-cooling and produce an extremely high quality spectrum of light that is customizable in fixtures housing multiple lamps. The compact fluorescent light source will be placed relatively close to the seedling canopy and operate for a full 24 hours to avoid any dark period that could promote internodal stretching during germination. After the seedlings have developed healthy roots and initial leaves, they will be transplanted into their new grow mediums and introduced to the 400 watt 5K metal halide light source to initiate strong vegetative development. Daytime (lights on) for the garden will be set up to occur during my nights so temperatures are easier to control overall. Since outside temperatures are naturally cooler during the night and warmer during the day, augmenting the lights to come on during the night and turn off during the day will help keep the garden temperatures from soaring to high or dropping to low. Water quality in my area, and many places for that matter, may not possess what I would refer to as ideal
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gardening qualities straight out of the tap. Filtration treatment is highly recommended before introducing water into a garden, especially for those who use organic cultivation methods and products. For the duration of this trial I will implement a two-stage carbon and sediment filtration system to make the water suitable for hydroponics and organic soil. The special grade of catalytic carbon removes more than 90 per cent of chloramines and 100 per cent of chlorine making the quality ideal for use with beneficial microbial inoculants and other organic products. Iron, sulfides and other heavy metals are also reduced through the use of this specialized filter. For municipal city-water users, I recommend a two-stage filtration compared to reverse osmosis, unless the PPM (parts per million) out of the tap registers above 300. In this case, one should use a reverse osmosis system. Well water is a different story altogether, and a reverse osmosis system should probably be considered if expectations are not met.
Germination Week 1: The seedlings are planted in the expanded pellet discs to initiate healthy root and leaf development. The pellets are expanded in filtered water, but with no additional nutrient. The pellets are contained in a small tray and dome to simulate a miniature greenhouse environment. They are placed on top of a seedling heat mat to enhance temperature stability in the root zone.
Week 1, Day 4: The first sprouts to appear are the Early Girls. There is no sign of the Sugar Baby variety yet. The temperature and humidity have been very consistent, thus I have not had to apply any additional water to the seedling tray. I remove the dome two times a day, which helps to refresh the air supply around the pellets. Very similar to that of a damp sponge, the consistency of the pellet is not overly saturated from stagnant water in the tray, but also never achieves a dry state from lack of. To the touch, the pellets feel lukewarm.
Week 1, Day 5: The fifth day reveals the first Sugar Baby sprout! The cotyledon leaves have not yet opened, but at least there are signs of life. I’m hoping that within another seven days the seedlings will be ready to transplant into the soil and drip buckets and take on the intended vegetative nutritional regiments. MY
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BEGINNER’S CORNER
Aero Gardening
a sure way to indoor container gardening success by Rita Harris
Choosing to integrate aero gardening as part of your interior container gardening will provide you with a quicker and easier way of getting great results. Not only will your plants provide beauty, they will also create a healthier environment by purifying the air around them. You will also find gardening to be a relaxing and gratifying hobby.
If your indoor container gardening involves a non-traditional way of cultivating plants, aero gardening is a system that may interest you. Aero gardening is a soil free growing method that nurtures your plants with air, nutrients and water. Because the plants are kept in a very controlled environment and precisely fed the right amount of nutrients, they grow at a faster rate. Plants are healthier, and contain a higher concentration of nutrients than those grown in soil. The growing time is shorter with a longer harvesting period. There are additional benefits to be had when using this type of indoor container gardening.Your garden can be left unattended for a period of as much as two weeks. Aero gardening is an inexpensive system to operate. The system is designed for maximum power efficiency, using low energy lighting comparable to a 60 watt bulb. A built in microprocessor automatically adjusts nutrient delivery. Light and water cycles ensure that your plants are getting a perfect growing environment, removing any guesswork on the part of the gardener. This results in providing you with fresh vegetables or gorgeous flowers more quickly and for a longer period of time.
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Cooks love the constant supply of fresh herbs at their fingertips, helping them to prepare delicious meals. An extended harvest period of fresh vegetables is a cost-saving benefit. Cherry tomatoes, for example, will be ready to harvest in about 10 weeks, and will grow for four months of continuous harvest. Great results will be provided by this method of indoor container gardening. Aero gardening is very inexpensive to operate. With a continuous and extended period of harvesting nutritious vegetables, it will be soon become an important part of your home routine.You are sure to embark on a very satisfying venture when you choose aero gardening as your next project. MY
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w w w. e c o g r o w. c o m MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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YOU TELL US
Emily Walter of AgraQuest, Inc. in Davis, California highlights the benefits of their non-toxic line of disease control and prevention products and the natural ingredient that makes them so effective. Maximum Yield (MY): What products are available in the Serenade line? Emily: Serenade® Garden Disease Control has three products: • Serenade Garden Disease Control, ready to use in a 32 ounce bottle. • Serenade Garden Disease Control Concentrate in a 32 ounce bottle. • Serenade Garden Lawn Disease Control in a 28 ounce hose end sprayer bottle.
MY: What plants can Serenade be used on? Emily: Serenade Garden can be used on vegetables, fruits and nuts, in addition to annual and perennial bedding plants and flowers, roses, potted flowers, foliage plants, trees and shrubs located in residential greenhouses. Serenade Garden can also be used on houseplants. It is best to take them outdoors, spray them and return them to the house. Serenade Garden Lawn Disease Control can be used on lawns, turf, sod and ornamental turfs.
MY: What diseases can Serenade products control? Emily: Serenade Garden Disease Control is labeled for the following fungal and bacterial diseases: anthracnose, blight, downy mildew and powdery mildew. For a complete list of diseases that Serenade Garden Controls or suppress please visit www.serenadegarden.com
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Emily Walter
MY: You promote your products as non-toxic and approved for organic production. What natural ingredients do the products consist of and what makes them so effective against pests and diseases? Emily: Serenade Garden products are made from a unique, patented strain (QST 713) of Bacillus subtilis. Farmers have used this biological pesticide for years to treat plant diseases in food crops. Bacillus subtilis penetrates and destroys the disease spores, but does not harm beneficial insects or wildlife. This ingredient is also approved by the EPA, meets USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) standards and is listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for use in organic gardening.
MY: When is the best time to use Serenade? Emily: For best results, apply product prior to disease development or at the first sign of infection. Repeat every seven days to protect new foliage. Under conditions of high disease pressure or periods of frequent rainfall, shorten interval (spray more often). Do not water foliage within four hours of application. “High disease pressure� means the time of the season when conditions favor the development of disease. This differs for each plant, but generally diseases begin to develop in humid, rainy and warm conditions (spring time) and can continue throughout the growing season. Serenade Garden is approved as a foliar spray. Spray leaves, stems and new shoots to provide complete coverage of the entire plant. Serenade Garden can safely be sprayed on flowers,
fruits and vegetables.You can even harvest the treated flowers and vegetables the same day you apply. Unlike most disease-control products, Serenade Garden is not made from synthetic chemicals, and does not have restrictions about staying out of the treated area for any extended length of time, or about handling the product after use. With Serenade Garden, once the sprays have dried, children and pets may enter the treated area and any treated vegetation may be handled.
MY: Do I need to balance the pH level of the water used to mix with Serenade Garden? Emily: No. Serenade Garden is formulated to work with regular city water (tap water) and does not need to be pH MY balanced.
The dedicated staff of AgraQuest, Inc. in Davis, California.
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AVANT-GARDENING
by Carolyn Smagalski
Hops Shortage and Hydroponics The expanding business of hydroponics promises to produce greater yields and higher quality agricultural products on less acreage and in shorter growing periods.
Supply vs. Demand Craft brewers are a tough crowd. They always seem to be playing tug-o-war against the wind, as they spread their enthusiasm for brewing to beer fans that thrive on their ambrosial elixir. Brewers blend a complex assortment of ingredients, juggling temperatures against time, and selecting the proper handling—whether canning or bottling their beer, cellaring in the cask, cave lagering, remuage and dÊgorgement or aging in wine or bourbon barrels. They crusade for a greater presence of beer at the dinner table, a place where wine has
Small Brewer Shortage Small, craft- or micro-brewers are at risk of losing their supply of hops during a decline in the availability of this traditional ingredient.
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seized a strong foothold, despite the greater abilities of beer to match the delicate nuances in food. They struggle against the advertising dollars of the mega-brewers who seem to hold the power of Darth Vader and the Imperial Troops. And now they face another challenge—one driven by nature and economics: rising costs in nearly every segment of their industry, from raw ingredients to packaging and delivery. Prices for aluminum, glass and fuel have seen steady increases for several years, moving upward like the rising tide as a hurricane approaches. Barley and wheat producers are on the decline. Fields that were once rippling with grain heads are now filled with corn for ethanol production, or feed crops to replace acres lost to corn. The big story, however, is the decline of hops availability to small craft brewers and home brewers who are not tied-in to the three and five year contracts that would secure their supply at reasonable rates.
The supply of hops peaks every seven to 10 years.
A Shortage in Hops Due to latitudinal sensitivity, the hops plant grows almost exclusively between the 35th and 55th parallel in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, although only about five per cent of the world’s production is grown in the Southern Hemisphere. Nearly 60 per cent of the world’s supply of hops is supplied from the United States, (where alpha hops are king), and Germany, (where aroma hops have taken a strong foothold). Other significant players are the Czech Republic, the Commonwealth of Independent States (Azerbaijan, Armenia, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Ukraine), the United Kingdom and China. Smaller significant producers are Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Japan. World hop production is typically cyclical, and hits a peak every seven to 10 years. This can result in a surplus (as we have
experienced for the past several years), or shortage, as is the most recent state-ofaffairs. This year’s shortage has many sources. Europe endured widespread hailstorms that damaged crops, resulting in poor yields; Australia had the worst drought on record; the USA was affected by fires in the west, and the powdery mildew fungus throughout the Yakima Valley; China had poor yields for two years running; and many U.S. growers, frustrated by the high labor and capital costs of hop production, coupled with the chronically low prices due to the surplus levels of past years, sold their land to real estate developers. As a result, many craft brewers are re-formulating their recipes by using available hops of different varieties. American brewers may even opt for bittering with sweet gale or heather. Traditional German brewers who subscribe to the parameters set forth in the Reinheitsgebot are hard-pressed to substitute these alternatives as acceptable ingredients. Is There Hope? Will this shortage turn around? Only a die-hard pessimist would continue to predict doom-and-gloom regarding the current hop shortage. The expanding business of hydroponics promises to produce greater yields and higher quality agricultural products on less acreage and in shorter growing periods. Many of the high quality hydroponic products available are not only effective in substrates like coco peat, NFT, rockwool, clay pebbles, perlite and vermiculite, but also in soil. Innovative products are available that increase plant strength, health and weight, including easy-to-use one-part nutrients, formulated to produce superior nutrient balance. There are also organic additives that produce ultra high root absorption, increasing crop yield and quality, and resistance to environmental stress. Analysis figures verify the effectiveness of these innovative products in the agricultural industry. Although the crop for this year is experiencing a downturn, it is highly possible that hop growers may enjoy a productive season in the next cycle, especially with an abundance of innovative nutritional aids that promise to increase yields and quality in the future. MY
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The Short & Vicious Life of a
Fungus Gnat
F
ungus gnats can invade any garden at any time. Although they are typically harmless to healthy plants, a healthy garden is not always immune. Even experienced gardeners can be puzzled by the symptoms of fungus gnats. The larvae of these pests can destroy a garden, working out of sight as they chew the plant roots and drain the sap. Even the adults—tiny flies that hang around the bottom of the plant and run across the surface of the grow medium—look harmless. Usually growers only see a few tiny flies, and sometimes the flies lay their eggs near the plant’s roots and escape unnoticed by the gardener. This hidden activity by fungus gnat larvae separates gnats from top growth, attacking insects like thrips or spidermites. Even careful examination of the root zone may miss these tiny larvae; the grower would see only damaged and discolored roots.
Meanwhile, the baby bugs are: 1. Chewing and damaging root tissue, interfering with nutrient and water uptake. 2. Sucking sap from roots that was necessary for the needs of the plant. 3. Infecting the damaged roots with fungus disease.
This last activity is the reason these insects got their name. They carry disease spores on their bodies that can infect the damaged roots easily, creating more problems for the grower. New fungus gnat problems in a garden usually occur in autumn (as cooler weather forces insects indoors) or spring (when over-wintering eggs outdoors hatch and the flies find their way into the grow room). Continuing fungus gnat problems can happen anytime of the year, indicating that an infected plant somewhere in the garden or nearby (houseplants or outdoors near the indoor garden) is serving as a continual source of these pests. Often the problem is traced to stock plants, which are usually neglected, old and root bound. And good riddance. Because of the severe damage these pests can inflict on a garden, store staff and growers must be aware of how to identify and handle them. Bright yellow leaves, normally shaped, no wrinkles or spots and very slow growth are strong clues to their presence in the garden. Have growers search for “tiny flies—like fruit flies—hovering near the base of the plant or on the grow medium. Once spotted, treatment of all plants must be immediate, not just the ones that look sick. The larvae can already be present and start to damage plants that still look healthy, and untreated larvae turn into more flies to re-infect the garden. Continued on page 130
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Continued from page 128
Plants recovering from fungus gnat problems still face the risk of disease problems. Remember that these bugs can spread fungus spores to damaged roots. As a precaution, these plants should be given a treatment with a fungicide a day or two after pesticide application. A root drench is more effective than spraying the top growth. Follow a similar procedure to your use of pesticides, drenching the entire root zone with fungicide solution, with irrigation pumps off for at least several hours. Left over fungicide in the root zone will not interfere with nutrients, so it’s not necessary to drain and replace the fertilizer mix. Yellow sticky cards are very useful as an early warning system for these flying pests, since the gnats are often attracted to the bright yellow surface. Soon, new gangs of these bugs will be pulling “home invasions� on our gardeners as the milder weather will allow gnat eggs to hatch outdoors.
Plants recovering from fungus gnat problems still face the risk of disease problems. Remember that these bugs can spread fungus spores to damaged roots.
Dealing with Gnats Fortunately, treating this pest is very straightforward. Potting soil insecticide or fungus gnat powders will eliminate fungus gnats from the root zone, usually with a single application of pesticide. These products are very gentle on the plant, making them useful for all grow mediums. I do not recommend stronger, outdoor pesticides since these can cause major damage or death to an indoor garden. Stick with safe, effective products that allow plants to recover quickly. Using these products with potting soil plants is very simple: just sprinkle the powder on to the soil and water tin. MY
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PRODUCT spotlight
See it. Want it. Find it at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Continued from page 42
The Black Box from Humboldt Nutrients It takes intense full spectrum light to produce a bountiful harvest, and it takes a dependable ballast to ensure you get the most out of your bulbs. The Black Box from Humboldt County Lights is the most dependable and affordable ballast available. With so much energy going into your garden, you don’t need to worry about failure, overheating, fire and poor quality results from faulty ballasts. We have put the Black Box through intense trials, testing the durability of the ballast and the final results from its use and we are astounded. This level of quality has never been available at this price. The Black Box includes an industrial gauge power cord, a full five year warranty and a cool, lightweight and efficient aluminum case. Using a proprietary noise control system for quiet operation, the sound coming from the Black Box is nearly non-existent. The Black Box was designed by the Humboldt County Lights team to exceed even the most demanding gardener's expectations. Visit your local hydro shop for more information.
Ata Organics Box for Beginners Atami makes it very easy for a beginner to start his or her organic garden. The Ata Organics Box for Beginners makes a starter successful. This box is made for a three square foot garden, and includes Flavor (one quart), Growth-C (one quart), Bloom-C (17 ounces), Flower-C (17 ounces), Root-C (8.5 ounces) and an Ata Organics Growscheme. In addition to the Ata Organics Box, there are three other starter kits in this successful series: the Bloombastic Box Coco, the Bloombastic Box Terra and the Atami Box. Visit your local hydro shop to learn more.
RootMaker® Root Pruning Containers
Vital Earth’s Manna Mix
RootMaker® Root Pruning Containers are essential and functional root production tools that assist with the plant’s growing cycle. They create fibrous, non-circling root systems, horizontally and vertically, at all phases of production to equip plants for transplanting and growing success. Our products are designed to promote root branching and new roots at every phase of production, whether above ground, in ground or in pots. The result is a root system that has a greater surface area and, therefore, absorbs water and nutrients more efficiently resulting in an increase in growth rate, establishment, transplant survivability and ultimately, superior performance for your prized plants. Order RootMaker® Root Pruning Containers from your favorite indoor gardening retailer and while you’re there make sure to check out the entire RootMaker® product line, which includes: RootMaker, RootBuilder II, Root Trapper Soft-Sided Containers and Propagation Trays.
Manna is often described as a source of divine nourishment and this powerful blend of Vital Earth’s® most potent ingredients is indeed divine. This is our superior coconut-based planting mix, and we think you will notice great improvement in the yields and quality of your end product. With Vital Earth’s® Coconut Pith, the holding capacity of the extra-long strands of coconut fiber creates the perfect air-to-water ratio for this triple-washed, low-saline, ideal container planting mix. Your plants are sure to be happy and healthy from seedling to harvest. Contains: • Vital Earth’s® Coconut Pith (low saline) • Vital Earth’s® Rose & Flower Mix • MegaWorm® earthworm castings, which may promote enhanced germination, root growth, plant-growth, crop yield and water-holding capacity in soils • mycorrhizal fungi and Vital Earth’s® Powdered Glacial Rock • fortified with Vital Earth’s® Organic Compost OMRI® Available in 1.5 cubic foot. bags and two yard totes. Visit your favorite hydroponic and indoor gardening retailer for more information.
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PRODUCT spotlight
Premier Horticulture Pro-Mix ‘BX’ Pro-Mix 'BX' is designed for use in the cultivation of a wide variety of plant species. Comprised of Canadian sphagnum peat moss (80 to 85 per cent/ volume), Pro-Mix BX is lightweight, uniform and blended to the highest degree of consistency that delivers maximum plant performance. If you want healthier plants as a result of a more developed root system and superior fertilizer uptake, start using Pro-Mix BX now! Pro-Mix BX is made of only the finest ingredients: • endomycorrhizae (Mycorise® PRO) • vermiculite • dolomitic and calcitic limestone (pH adjuster) • macronutrients • micronutrients • wetting agent • horticulture grade perlite Pro-Mix ‘BX’ is now available at your local indoor and outdoor gardening store.
C.A.P. Introduces New Two-Faced Block Covers All-new Two-Faced Block Covers reflect light back toward plants and protect them from algae growth. The white face reflects light to the plant while the black face blocks light from the media and helps with algae, mildew and pest problems. Our unique circular design prevents light passage to your blocks even when the cover shifts or moves. Two-Faced Block Covers are available in sizes to cover four inch, six inch and eight inch blocks. For more information contact your favorite retailer.
Hydrofarm 1/8” Rope Ratchets Now Available Hydrofarm’s new compact Rope Ratchet two pack is perfect for hanging lights, filters and other equipment. They have metal components for long life and strength, and the patented pully system pulls tight, locks in place and adjusts easily. Each pack contains two ratchets that hold 75 pounds each, so the pair can handle jobs up to 150 pounds. Convenient carabiner clips make attaching or removing equipment a snap. Ask for Hydrofarm Rope Ratchets at an authorized Hydrofarm retailer near you.
MY You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow.
Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or email editor@maximumyield.com
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TALKING SHOP as Dall
AT A GLANCE Company: Jolly Green Hydroponics Owners: Austin Page Phone: 866-WE-JOLLY (935-6559) Location: 13628 Neutron Road Dallas, Texas Email: support@jollygreenhydro.com Motto: “It’s where all the growers get their jollies!”
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Austin Page, Owner of Jolly Green Hydroponics
Everything is big in Texas, and now Jolly Green Hydroponics will be too. With just under three years in business, we are preparing to expand our facility from 2,500 square feet to a whopping 13,000 square feet so that we can offer you even more options and instruments to help you grow big yields all year ‘round. We help you grow and you’ve helped us grow, and for that we thank you. Jolly Green Hydroponics is located deep in the heart of Dallas, the primary economic center of the 12-county Dallas–Fort Worth–Arlington metropolitan area (aka the fourth-largest metropolitan area in the United States). We offer the best, cutting edge indoor garden technology on the market as determined by you, the grower. We specialize in quality hydroponics products as well as organic nutrients and growing mediums. We offer the best in indoor and greenhouse lighting and hydroponics equipment. We cater to beginner hobbyists and commercial experts worldwide, and are able to accommodate gardens of any size. Since opening our doors at the beginning of 2008, Jolly Green Hydroponics the retail store and JollyGreenHydro.com have been very well received by the gardening community. Our inventory continues to grow daily thanks to consumer feedback and our own product discoveries and research. We welcome everyone in the Dallas–Fort Worth–Arlington Metropolis, including visitors, to come into our store to say hello and look around.
We realize that every hydroponic garden is unique and each situation requires specific solutions. At Jolly Green Hydroponics, we will always strive to provide our customers with the best service and answers to their specific gardening needs. Our jolly customers have found our toll free technical support hotline to be a very helpful tool in diagnosing their gardening problems. Feel free to call, email or visit our location with any indoor gardening or commercial greenhouse questions. And make sure to ask one of our friendly and knowledgeable staff about our beginner hydroponic classes. Jolly Green Hydroponics offers a safe and friendly shopping atmosphere with competitive pricing and plenty of parking. Stepping into Jolly Green Hydroponics after a long education. We understand that there are many possibilities for day under the heat of the Texas sun is always a treat for our providing the perfect environment for your indoor garden.Your local and out-of-town customers. We provide a clean, climatefeedback is always appreciated because it helps us to better serve controlled facility that includes our customers in the future. We men’s and women’s restrooms, owe our longevity in business to “Let our hydro heavy beverages, entertainment and a you, so that is why all of us here at comfortable lounge for you to weights help you get started Jolly Green Hydroponics are always rest your feet. We are equipped dedicated to your success! on a new garden today!” with several commercial docks The future of gardening is here, to make loading your vehicle a and Jolly Green Hydroponics is snap. And we are located near world-class shopping, hotels and ready to lead the way. New technologies and gardening techdining destinations. Our prime location also provides easy access niques are being developed everyday, and we are ready to offer to several major highways. them to you and show you how to use every piece of equipBecome part of the Jolly Green family by shopping with us ment in your indoor gardening. Our goal is to provide the online at www.jollygreenhydro.com. We offer a safe and secure latest in hydroponic advancements, while offering the most online shopping experience, with orders that ship out the same trusted and popular brand names in the industry. Our business day or next business day! We provide a full array of hydroponic is growing, and staying ahead of the competition is what we nutrients and supplies for indoor and outdoor greenhouses. We do best. Jolly Green Hydroponics wants to be your primary ship worldwide from six major distribution facilities throughout source for quality hydroponic gardening supplies. So, come the United States.You can even prepare your trip to our retail and let our hydro heavy weights help you get started on a new location ahead of time by placing an online work order to be garden today! picked up when you arrive! Customer satisfaction is our number one priority, so we pay Jolly Green Hydroponics is an authorized dealer of: General close attention to the needs and desires of our clientele. Many Hydroponics, Dutch Master, FoxFarm, Botanicare, Sunlight Supply, of our customers express difficulties in finding good informaSun System, Humboldt Nutrients,Technaflora, Agricultural Organics, MY tion about hydroponics, which is why we promote accuracy and Hortilux, Grodan, Hydroton, B’Cuzz and many more. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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Long Beach Full
MAX-MART
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
LLC
Phone: 510.903.1808 Fax: 510.764.1246 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577
www.hydrogardendelight.com
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MAX-MART
GrowCo Garden Supplies Max Double Spot
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MAXIMIZE YOUR EXPOSURE WITH
MAX-MART
Get your Max-Mart ad into the next issue! Call Maximum Yield at (250) 729-2677 for more information. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
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COMING UP IN june
WASABI jAPONICA
Discover the healthful and flavorful benefits of wasabi japonica, a delicate plant that traditionally grows wild in the mountains of Japan.
lIGHTING AND iRRIGATION
Determine proper lighting and irrigation for your garden, and learn how you can automate it down to seconds with a timer.
SIX “ACCEPTED” mACRONUTRIENTS
The six “accepted” macronutrients found in plant tissue are discussed, with their role in plants, hydroponic source, deficiency symptoms and excess symptoms highlighted.
sEAWATER vS sOIL
“A cubic foot of seawater sustains many times more living organisms than an equivalent of soil.” Dr. Maynard Murray’s research and life’s work is further analyzed in this call-to-action thesis.
iNDUSTRY mEET AND gREET pLUS EXPERT ADVISE
Maximum Yield USA features manufacturers, retailers and growers from this ever-expanding industry. Get to know your indoor gardening comrades in Talking Shop, You Tell Us and Your Best Advice. Effective nutrients, root boosters and bloom stimulators, all-new soil mixes, giveaways, sold out event info (San Francisco, Long Beach!) and so much more!
www.maximumyield.com June will be available June 1 for at selected indoor gardening retail stores across USA FREE and on maximumyield.com I N D O O R
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G A R D E N I N G
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
DO YOU
know? 6 There are 76 million cases of food poisoning each year in the United States.
7 The heat producing or burning compound contained
in chili peppers is ‘capsaicin,’ which was first isolated from plant tissue in 1877.
8 Silica rock, also referred to as diatomite, possesses
high moisture retention characteristics absorbing as much as 150 per cent of its weight in water.
9 Seaweed and fish emulsions can be taken in directly through the leaf and stems of the plant, enhancing chlorophyll content and supplying trace elements of organic origin.
1 Experiments indicate that land plants will tolerate from 400 cc to 1,000 cc of seawater to one-third cubic foot of soil.
fungi and trichoderma fungi often get 2 Mycorrhizal confused, but mycorrhizal fungi are not parasitic like trichoderma fungi.
10Poisonous elements such as arsenic can be
beneficial in some animals if they are ingested in an organic form and in trace amounts.
11In addition to being a powerful biological control
agent, trichoderma is a major pest in commercial mushroom production where it is known as “green mold.”
3 It has been estimated that a definite physiological
role for a particular element is newly discovered on an average of one every 10 years.
4 Over 400 volatile aromatic compounds that may
contribute to the overall flavor experience have been identified in tomato fruit.
5 Some plants strains that have a fast finish in flowering may require extensive vegetative growth periods to arrive at a stature that will offer high yield on a per plant basis, as they do very little growing after flowering is initiated.
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802
ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733
ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344
ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955
CALIFORNIA 3rd Street Hydroponics 636 3rd Street Oakland, CA 94607 510-452-5521 805 Hydroponics & Organics 1785 E. Thousand Oaks Boulevard Thousand Oaks, CA 91362 805-494-1785 A+ Hydroponics & Organics 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949-642-7776 A Fertile World (Eureka) 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200 A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700
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Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 AG Natural 403 Idaho Maryland Road, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-274 0990 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atlantis Garden Supply 2851 A Whipple Road, Union City, CA 94587 510-487-8007 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215 Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505
Better Choice Hydroponics 610 S. Washington Street, Senora, CA 95370 209 533 2400 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics 560 Valdry Ct #85 Brentwood, CA 94513 925-634-6704 BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farm Hydroponics 8903 Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Sun Valley, CA 91352 818-767-2076 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 43 Soda Bay Road, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264 Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589
Dazey’s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc. 591 main Street, Suite N-2 El Centro, CA 92243 760-235-4985 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Endless Green Hydroponics 25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3 Napa, CA 94558 707-254-0200 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276 Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce Street, Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950
Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Go Green Hydroponics 15721 Ventura Boulevard, Encino, CA 91436 818-990-1198 Golden Gecko Garden Center, The 4665 Marshall Road, Garden Valley, CA 95633 530-333-2394 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gonzo Grow 2550 Guerneville Road, Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-546-1800 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31875 Corydon, Suite 130 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogarden 12506 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922 Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Green Door Hydro and Solar 830 Traction Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90013 212-625-1323 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Gopher Garden Supply 679 Redwood Avenue, Suite A, Sand City, CA 93955 831-899-0203 Green Joint Ventures 61 Tarp Circle, Salinas, CA 93901 831-998-8628 Green Lady Hydroponics 4879 Newport Avenue, San Diego, CA 92107 619-222-5011
GreenLeaf Hydroponics 2212 Artesia Boulevard, Redondo Beach, CA 90278 310-374-2585 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Avenue, Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Gro More Garden Supply 2937 Larkin Avenue, Clovis, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 93612 559-348-1055 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 High Street Hydro 180 Cleveland Avenue, Auburn, CA 95603 530-885-5888 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
145
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Home Life Hydroponics and Organics 1745 East Vista Way, Vista, CA 92084 760-643-2150 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Electronics 2547 California Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-9408 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Hydroponics 601 I Street, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-3377 Humboldt Hydroponics 2010 Tunnel Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-1402 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro King 105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D, Redding, CA 96002 888-822-8941 Hydro King 2540 South Whitman Place, Chico, CA 959282 530-893-GROW (4769) Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydroponics Unlimited.com 2728 E. Palmdale Boulevard #121 Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906
146
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Igrow Hydro 2280 Veatch Street, Oroville, CA 95965 530-534-4476 Igrow Hydro 9000 Atkinson Street, Roseville, CA 95678 916-773-4476 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-625-4937 Kern Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 LAX Hydro 10912 S. La Cienaga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90045 310-337-6995 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1809 East 21st Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769
M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Mighty Garden Supply 4780 Mission Gorge Pl. #A-1, San Diego, CA 92120 619-287-3238 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 New Leaf Hydro 34150 123rd Street, Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 60 West 4th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 357 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-5550 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1070 Highway 101, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-1200 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354
Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Pro Gardening Systems 4936 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 95472 707-538-8402 Pro Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Redway Feed Garden and Pet Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Redwood Garden Supply 55 Myers Avenue, Myers Flat, CA 95554 707-943-1515 Reforestation Technologies International 1341 Daton Street, Units G&I Salinas, CA 93901 831-424-1494; 800-RTI-GROW RH Distribution 1751 S. Pointe Avenue Ontario, CA 91761 888-545-8112 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West Side 815 Almar Avenue, Unit K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East Side 4000 Cordelia Lane Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 SB Hydro 1109 W. 190th Street, Unit #F, Gardena, CA 90248 310-538-5788 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - Mtn. View 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Specialty Garden Center 1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10, Vista, CA 92084 760-758-4769 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Super Starts PO Box 732, Bellmont, CA 94002 650-346-8009 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 1151 Evergreen Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 The Green Shop 66420 Mooney Boulevard, Suite 1 Visalia, CA 93277 559-688-4200 The Hydro Source 671 E. Edna Place Covina, CA 91723 877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128 The Hydro Shop 1365 W. Olive Avenue Porterville, CA 559-781-4769
The Shop 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 The Urban Farmer Store 653 E. Blithedale Avenue, Mill Valley, CA 94941 415-380-3840 The Urban Farmer Store 2833 Vicente Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-661-2204 The Urban Farmer Store 2121 San Joaquin Street, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-1604 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply & Organic Nursery 403 W. Olive Avenue, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies 1235 Striker Avenue #180, Sacramento, CA 95834 888-557-8896 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmersville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Two Chix Garden Supply 1230 Yuba Street, Marysville, CA 95901 530-923-2536 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Vital Landscaping Inc. 12817 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-273-3187 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
147
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Ever Green Hydroponics Inc. 1131 Francis Street, Suite A, Longmont, CO 80501 303-682-6435 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Go Green Hydro 1005 Caprice Drive, Castle Rock, CO 80109 303-688-0599 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 GroWize 3225 S. Wadsworth Boulevard, Lakewood, CO 80227 303-986-2706 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 GWS Hydroponics 7025 Highway 82 Building 4B, Glenwood Springs, CO 81601 970-384-2040 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Planet 711 Washington Avenue, Golden, CO 80401 303-279-6090 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751
148
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
Lyons Indoor Gardening 138 Main Street, Lyons, CO 80540 720-530-3828 Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC. 1530 S Nevada Avenue, Colorado Springs, CO 80906 719-635-5859 Rocky Mountain Hydroponics and Organics 15985 S. Golden Road Golden, CO 80401 720-475-1725 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769
CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923
FLORIDA 3D Hydroponics and Organics 7139 US Highway #19, New Port Richey, FL 34652 727-847-3491 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Falero Hardware & Hydroponics 6758 W. Flager Street, Miami, FL 33144 305-266-8878 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road, Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 561-333-1088 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757
Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 GrowSmart Indoor Garden Centers 14587 Southern Boulevard, Loxahatchee, FL 33470 561-429-3527 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW
Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792
GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030
HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Eco-Island Supply 810 Haiku Road, #394 Haiku, HI 96708 808-575-9171 Green Hands of Aloha 1713 Mary Street, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-4263 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955
IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714
ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply 615 Industrial Drive, Unit A Cary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 847-854-4450 Brew and Grow 359 W. Irving Park Road Unit E, Roselle, IL 60172 630-894-4885 Brew and Grow 3625 N. Kedzi Avenue, Chicago, IL 60618 773-463-7430 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60440 630-771-0555 Brew and Grow 181 Crossroads Parkway, Bolingbrook, IL 60194 847-885-8282
Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Goldman's Grow Show 910 Greenwood Road, Glenview, IL 60025 847-657-7250 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Prairie House Garden Center 15151 South Harlem Avenue, Orland, IL 60462 708-687-3131 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929
INDIANA BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Hops & Harvest 4616 E. DuPont Road, Suite Q, Fort Wayne, IN 46825 260-918-3035 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158
KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888
KENTUCKY Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953
Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
LOUISIANA Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics 201 Angus Drive, Yungsville, LA 70592 337-303-6146 Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709
MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Urban Garden Center 235 Lewiston Road, Toposhan, ME 04086 207-373-0990
MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 301-490-9236 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 12130 Nebel Street, Rockville, MD 20852 240-551-4625 Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901
MASSACHUSETTS Greenlife Garden Supply 481 Boston Road, Unit 4, Billerica, MA 01821 978-262-9966 Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 29 Washington Street, Route 1 Foxboro, MA 02035 800-660-6977 LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 New England Hydroponics 15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676
MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St. Clair, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 6540 Allen Road, Allen Park, MI 48101 313-383-1766 Cultivation Station 3 Inc. 46912 Gratiot, Chesterfield, MI 48051 586-949-7453
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
149
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Flo-N-Grow. 214 N. 2nd Street, Niles, MI 49120 269-683-1877 Gro Blue Indoor Gardening Supplies 270 W. Liberty Street, Ann Arbor, MI 48104 734-913-2750 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Growing Consultant 2260 Apple Avenue, Muskegon, MI 49442 231-773-5600 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-1664 Horizen Hydroponics 4646 W. Main Street, Kalamazoo, MI 49006 269-567-3333 HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydro Heaven 73647 W 8th Mile Road, Detroit, MI 48235 313-861-0333; 877-823-2076 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 Indoor Garden Superstore 2570 Dixie Highway, Waterford Twp., MI 48328 248-673-2200; 877 22 HYDRO J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 Stealth Hydro 15 E. Cross Street, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 866-998-1916 Sunnyside Hydroponics 24930 Gratiot Avenue, Eastpoint, MI 48021 586-777-2528 Sunshine Supply Co. 5800 East Pickard Street, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 The Grow Store 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191
150
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
The Hydro Grow 8210 Telegraph Road, Taylor, MI 48180 313-633-0641 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW
MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 Duluth Hydroponics 26 W 1st Street Duluth, MN 55802 218-341-7253 Eco Garden Supply 800 Transfer Door 25 in rear St. Paul, MN 55114 651-647-1896 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822
MISSISSIPPI Indoor Garden Shop LLC 1310 Bienville Boulevard, Ocean Springs, MS 39564 228-875-3725
MISSOURI Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Green Thumb Organics 249 Mid Rivers Mall Drive, St. Peters, MO 63376 636-387-4769 (GROW) Heartland Hydrogardens 5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L, Columbia, MO 65202 573-474-GROW (4769) Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 HYDROGARDENS 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368
Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676
MONTANA Alpengrow Nursery Supplies 238 Highway 93 S., Eureka, MT 59917 406-882-4496 Bizzy Beez LLP 5875 Highway 93 S, Whitefish, MT 59937 406-863-9937 Dr. Green Thumbs 1106 West Park, Livingston, MO 59047 406-222-7440 Heightened Harvest 2018 Main Street #4, Billings, MT 59105 406-252-4311
NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218
NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, (on Desert Inn West of Valley View) Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852
NEW HAMPSHIRE Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030
NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Garden State Hydroponics 511 Avenel Street, Avenel, NJ 07001 888-300-8711
NORTH CAROLINA
Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 609-570-8829
NEW MEXICO
greentouch2 HYDRO P ONICS
IN C.
AHL Year Round Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 AHL Year Round Garden Supply 9421 Coors Blvd. NW Suite K, Albuquerque, NM 87114 505-899-0592 Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463
NEW YORK Bronx Hydro & Garden 39 Bruckner Boulevard, Bronx, NY 10454 718-993-3787 California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960 Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro 163 Broadway, Fort Edwart, NY 12828 518-480-4698 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing 1590 West Ridge Road, Rochester, NY 14615 866-395-9204
Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800-316-1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) High Tech Garden Supply 2712 B Freedom Drive Charlotte, NC 28208 704-697-0911 New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 The Family Tree Nursery & Garden Center 6033 Ocean Highway E.,(on mile marker 35) Winnabow, OH 28479 910-253-9200
OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 434 W Wilbeth Road, Akron, OH 44314 330-724-2700 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Greenleaf Hydroponics 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001
Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Super Harvest 5956 A Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45239 513-385-5999 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Urban Gardens 671 E. Center Street Marion, OH 43302 740-375-2800 Worm’s Way Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Road (Route 236), Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Organics OKC Garden Supply 3620 N Pennsylvania Avenue, Oklahoma City, OK 73118 405-528-GROW Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018
OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11th Avenue, Eugene, OR 97402 541-302-9073 Aqua Serene 465 Applegate Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Aurora Innovations PO Box 22041, Eugene, OR 97402 866-376-8578 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
151
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 SW Philomath Boulevard, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens 7530 Crater Lake Highway, White City, OR 97503 541-826-2946 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 541-756-5005 Garden Supplies Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 H2organic LCC 620 NE 3rd Street, McMinnville, OR 97128 503-434-6107 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW In and Out Gardens 1574 Skypark Drive Medford, OR 97501 541-858-3333 Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McGloughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Indoor Garden Supply 536 SW 6th Street (rear alley), Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-7750 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219
152
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - May 2010
Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Moonshine Park Farm 135 South East 62nd, Unit F South Beach, OR 97366 541-444-2298 Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Paradise Supply LLC 560 NE. "F" Street, Unit C, Grand Pass, OR 97526 541-955-7293 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 The Good Earth Organics 30088 Redwood Highway, Cave Junction, OR 97523 541-592-4496 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Westcoast Organic and Hydroponic Supply 12410 SE 282nd Avenue, Unit C Boring, OR 97009 503-766-4106 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333
PENNSYLVANIA Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030
Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118 PA Hydroponics & Home Gardening Supply 20 Quaker Church Road, York Springs, PA 17372 717-528-4175 RH Distribution POB 1417 Lansdale, PA 19446 888-545-8112
RHODE ISLAND Good To Grow 34 Nooseneck Hill Road, West Greenwich, RI 02817 401-392-3100 Hydro-Earth 1243 Mineral Springs Avenue, North Providence, RI 02904 401-305-5520 LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724 Oakworld Garden Center 39 West Street, Barrington, RI 02806 401-245-5705
SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830
SOUTH DAKOTA Green Earth Products Inc. 5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1, Rapid City, SD 57702 605-342-1307
TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite E Goodlettsville, TN 37072 800-397-4153
TEXAS
VERMONT
Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Earth Organics 1360 Lee Trevino Drive,Suite 105 El Paso, TX 79936 915-591-9500 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest Hydroponics & Organic 1500 Crescent Drive, Suite 202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-466-1300 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Hydroponic Nation 9700 Almeda Genoa Road, Suite 108, Houston, TX 77075 281-501-9636 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425
Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100 Peak Hydroponic Garden Supplies 20 School Street, Plainfield, VT 05667 802-454-8000
UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200
VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425 Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259
WASHINGTON Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW (4769) Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depot 6400 NE Highway 99, Suite H, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden Depot 1401 S. 324th Street, Federal Way, WA 98003 253-874-1112 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Indoor Garden Supply LLC 1950b Belmont Loop, Woodland, WA 98674 360-841-8055 Island Hydroponic & Supplies 1515 5th Street #B, Marysville, WA 98271 425-299-5855 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299
Kitsap Garden & Lighting 2130 6th Street, Bremerton, WA 98312 360-377-1277 Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 Mike's Indoor Garden Supply 6121 172nd Street NE #A, Arlington, WA 98223 425-346-6481 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Light and Garden Vancouver 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055
WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800
PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252
MY WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.
ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of ilona@maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue.
Add your company logo to the distributor listings! Call 250-729-2677 or Email ilona@maximumyield.com
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