Maximum Yield - USA November 2009 by Maximum Yield

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CONTENTS november 2009

FEATURES

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Pre-Veg: Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest

Food Pyramid Production - Part II

Back to the Future: Organics

Climate Controllers: Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

by Erik Biksa

by Lee McCall

by Luis Bartolo

by Isabelle Lemay agr. and Mélissa Léveillé

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration by Andrew Taylor

102

Complete Nutrition - Part I

110

Chill Out: Water Chillers Explained

116

Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Life in the Winter Soil

by Evan Folds

by Stephen Keen with Pat King

by Roland Evans

110

120

Sustainability: Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda?

124

Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls

by Matt Geschke

by Matt LeBannister

DEPARTMENTS 10 From the Editor

86 Tips and Tricks

12 Letters to the Editor

94 Green Thumb Gardening

14 MaximumYield.com

129 Do You Know?

18 Ask Erik

130 You Tell Us

20 MAX Facts

138 Avant-Gardening

32 Product Spotlight

140 Max Mart

56 Growing for Health

144 Distributors

70 Beginner’s Corner

154 Coming up in December

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

FROM THE editor

jessica raymond

We have an action packed issue for you with 12 of our professional writers providing you with some great “meat and potatoes” to help you grow! From conductivity and nutrient concentration to climate controller calibration, to growing a berry bonanza and really looking at sustainability and the future of organics, our writers give you the skinny on what you have been asking for.

contributors

Our first E-Newsletter has been sent and has been receiving great feedback. Reaching you first with the latest events, Jessica Raymond, Editor contests, products, reader tips editor@maximumyield.com and more, the E-News can be waiting for you each month in your inbox. If you haven’t already, sign up for the E-News at maximumyield.com/ newsletter.php. November is the month for thanks and we would like to take this opportunity to thank all of our loyal readers, retail shops and advertisers for their continuous support; together we are all working towards a better balanced and harmonic way to grow healthier food and in doing so a healthier environment. Happy Thanksgiving from everyone at Maximum Yield.

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing. com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.

Stephen Keen has been an indoor gardening hobbyist for nearly 10 years. His personal successes with his garden led him to want to bring new ideas, mainly water-cooling, to the mainstream, which led to the founding of Hydro Innovations.

Erik Biksa holds a diploma in

Mélissa Léveillé holds a license in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.

Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between gardening and personal growth.

Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.

Andrew Taylor is the manager of

Matt Geschke has a B.S. in biology

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life

Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, a natural approach land care company, and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com). With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to such topics as empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance.

Matt LeBannister works at Homegrown Hydroponics, the manufacturer of the DNF line of premium nutrients and enhancement products. Matt manages the retail store at Homegrown’s head office in Toronto and as of late has been traveling the trade show circuit as their resident expert.

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/ consultants.htm and www.suntec. co.nz/books.htm for more information. agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.

Yes, this issue is all about the goods, the gear and the grow – your grow! Featuring 25+ all new products we give you just what you need to improve and expand your garden. Be sure to let the stores know you saw it first in Maximum Yield.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Flairform (www.flairform.com) – an Australian-based manufacturing company. As an analytical chemist with qualifications in plant function and nutrition, he has over 13 years experience in product research and development, and also writes extensively on hydroponic growing techniques.

from Baldwin Wallace College. He also completed an environmental geology degree from the University of Akron and received his M.S. in 2002. Matt is an adjunct professor at Kent State University and is the research and development director at Sure to Grow.

LETTERS TO the editor

A Tale of Generosity Hello and great job on Maximum Yield! I read it every month and, unfortunately for me, I tend to give it away a lot. I wanted to ask if there was a way to find out what issue the article about GMOs was in? It’s hard for me to find in your archives as there is no search function. Thank you in advance for your assistance! Toni Genaro

The issue of Genetically Modified Organisms has been noted in a number of featured Maximum Yield articles, but I believe the one you are looking for is Evan Fold’s The Potential of Hydroponics found in the September issue of USA or under Magazine Issues on maximumyield.com. Stay tuned for a search feature on our website, coming soon.

Props to the Team I went to the Indoor Gardening Expo recently in San Francisco WOW! It was quite an experience. I met so many different vendors; I was completely in shock. The knowledge and passion they have for the field is quite impressive. Advanced, moderate and new growers can all learn from attending these events. I look forward to next year’s events. Keep up the great work! Chris West

Retailing Inspiration

e e th l lov that I own a retail store in Northern California, l a "We ation ve and we carry your magazine. We all love the a rm information that you folks have to offer and info folks h " u find we are getting rid of them as fast as we . r e yo f f order them. to o

I would like to recommend more features on American retail stores. It’s nice to hear what others like us are working on in their area of the country. Thank you and keep up the good work. Michael McLean

Can’t Get Enough Do you have back issues of your magazines available on DVD? How much would that be to purchase? Roy Halls

While Maximum Yield magazines are not available as back issues, we provide a full library on our website dating back 11+ years.Visit www. maximumyield.com and click on Maximum Yield issues. This will take you to the archived issues of Maximum Yield USA and the rest of the MY editions.

These are a few of my Favorite Things I loved the saffron article by Dr. Lynette Morgan in August Maximum Yield USA; I even ordered myself some bulbs. Come Clone with Us by Kevin Dunlop came at the best possible time for me because I was having issues rooting lavender and rosemary cuttings. Of course, the rest of the articles were also very informative but those were my favorites. Rex Ravs

You can look forward to our new column “Talking Shop” in upcoming issues of Maximum Yield. Serving to inspire readers and retail stores alike, Talking Shop will feature hydroponic retailers across the USA and their initiatives to bring hydroponics to growers around the world.

"It’s like comparing boats to cars."

Shine a Light on Me Do plants require high lumens as with H.I.D and HPS lighting? Will the lower lumen 300 LED create the same results as 600 watt HPS? Danny Presley

Referring to a 300 watt LED versus a 600 watt HPS lighting system, which one would yield better depends upon a few things. However, as a short answer, it's more likely that if you took the best 600 watt HPS set-up and put it against the best 300 watt LED set-up, you would likely find the LED system would provide a higher yield. Again though, many factors are conducive as it’s like comparing boats to cars. Erik Biksa

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Coming up on the Web Speed Read 1. Maximum Yield’s all-new E-News is available monthly. Featuring the industry’s latest news, tips and tricks for indoor growing and even a reader-inspired section “Listen In,” you don’t want to miss out on what E-News has to offer. Sign up at maximumyield.com/newsletter.php 2. In his latest video, Sure To Grow’s chief grower Matt Geschke demonstrates how to assemble a mini DWC cloner. He is joined by Jeremy Borger. 3. As if you weren’t cold enough, Stephen Keen discusses the reasons you should add a water chiller to your grow room basics.

“Experienced growers know that they achieve their best results when the crop starts strong with no interruptions or “hiccups” through the development of the plants, starting early in the propagation/rooting phase.” -Erik Biksa-

Stay Connected O R D O I N

G I N E N R D G A

Join Maximum Yield on Facebook (facebook.com/MaximumYield) and participate in discussions with other readers on the topics that matter the most to you. Stay updated on upcoming Indoor Gardening Expos, post photos

and be the first to hear about exclusive online reader contests.

Latest News • Through a non-profit organization known as AmpleHarvest. com, growers can locate food pantries in their community and share their excess bounty of produce with neighbors in need. • The Maldive Islands recently vowed to become the first carbon-neutral nation by 2020 by using coconuts as fertilizer to capture carbon. • The Quite Contrary Urban After School Farm educates children on growing and selling produce, recycling and other eco-friendly topics.

Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

I N D O O R

G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 8 November 2009 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092

PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher

ASK

erik

Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.

I have one highly productive indoor garden and have been trying different media over my short experience indoors. I am currently using soilless mixes such as coco, sunshine mix and other coco-based mixes but have used rockwool in the past. My question is how can I dispose of such media in an environmentally-friendly manner? I can't use the backyard as the dog has destroyed everything I once grew outdoors! Please help. Thanks in advance for the great advice! Sean Kennedy

Usually, it’s okay to mix soilless mixes from indoor gardens into outdoor soils. Typically, used naturally-occurring growth mediums like peat and coco from indoor gardens will improve the texture and introduce some beneficial nutrients, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids, carbohydrates and beneficial microbes into outdoor garden soils.You should allow the soil to “assimilate” the used growth medium through winter months. Also keep in mind that if you are using products that contain strong plant growth regulators (hormones), this may create some problems. Once introduced into the soil, some of these substances may take a very long time to break down or reach levels that are dilute enough not to effect growth. Remember that you don’t want flowering hormones interfering with the vegetative growth of your garden plants. It is important to dispose of growth mediums that contain growth hormones in a conscientious manner. If used indoor gardening soils are mixed with a proportionately much larger volume of garden soil, for example 100:1, the effects of any residuals should be minimal. Growers who re-use organic growth mediums often report that they get healthier plants and bigger yields with each successive crop in the recycled growth medium. When re-using growth mediums, it is a good idea to add a little extra perlite, earth

perlite

rockwool worm castings and lime (if applicable) to re-charge the growth medium between crops. Digestive enzymes and microbial inoculants can also assist in the process. Alternatively, organic based mediums may be incinerated, as in the case of Sure To Grow and SteadyGRO products. Sure To Grow can be cleanly burned in a biomass furnace. The preferred method of disposal is to remove the subaerial biomass and leave only the root mass behind. The remaining root mass should be allowed to dry out completely and then can be taken to your local plastic recycler. For greenhouses with a bio mass system, SteadyGRO slab media and the entire SteadyGRO block unit can be incinerated for energy purposes. With SteadyGRO, it can be ground up from its original form to a mass of less than 11 per cent of its original volume. Ground up or compacted, the media and left over root volume can be safely placed in your trash bin. If you are dealing with large volumes of material, you may be able to come to some type of arrangement with a landscape company that can use your spent material as fill or incorporate it into beds, outdoor soils, etc. Highest Regards, Erik Biksa

coco coir 18

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

soilless alternatives

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

After School Program Aims to Teach of Food and Farming The Quite Contrary Urban After School Farm recently introduced in Carrboro, NC offers lessons in horticulture, recycling and etiquette to schoolaged children. Registered children aged six to 11 are picked up by a “walking bus” and taken to the farm where they participate in a wide range of activities geared towards education on growing and selling produce, recycling and other eco-friendly topics. Quite Contrary is a café/institution that supports local food and crafts. The food grown on the farm will be sold at a kid’s farmer’s market on the last Saturday of the month. The program even offers discounts to kids who are picked up and dropped off car-free. (Source: http://quitecontraryfarm.blogspot.com)

Evolution not a One-Way Street Research Proves Scientists from the John Innes Centre and University of St. Andrews in Birmingham have identified a key gene that was Groundsel transferred from a Sicilian plant into a close relative in Britain. The researchers unravelled the history of an Italian interloper, a close relative of the common British weed groundsel, that was first brought to the UK 300 years ago. This region of DNA modifies the flowers, making the weed more attractive to pollinators. The results demonstrate how natural genetic exchanges can allow important traits to be transferred between species. This goes against the typical view of evolution as a one-way street in which each species evolves as a separate, independent genetic lineage. Hybridisation between closely related forms may allow evolutionary cross-talk in which valuable genes can be exchanged and preserved. The result is greater flexibility and potential for diversity during evolution. (Source: Norwich BioScience Institutes. "Sicilian Plant Gene Enters British Genetic Language." ScienceDaily 25 November 2008. 9 July 2009 <http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/11/081113181158.htm>)

Skip Harvest with Fridge Gardening Inspired by the array of innovative growing spaces cropping up everywhere, Cho Woong designed a crisper-sized garden that allows one to skip the whole harvesting part of gardening. Having your garden simply grow in your fridge means it is ready for picking when you are. Realistically, produce grown in a fridge garden would not survive due to lack of lighting and the low temperature. However, produce has been grown in stranger places including newspaper stands and telephone poles to name a few. (Source: www.treehugger.com)

Sun Curve Challenge Encourages Efficient Food Growth As part of the Sun Curve Challenge, teachers and students are being challenged to produce new Open Educational Resources (OER) materials and incorporate green design thinking into the classroom. The competition focuses on contemporary issues in environmental science, renewable energy, agriculture and technology using hands-on methods and open-source curriculum for science inquiry and design innovation. The goal is to inspire and educate students using alternative energy sources and sustainable growing systems. Sun Curve is a system that combines hydroponic, organic food production with aquaculture, renewable materials and solar energy in a self-contained laboratory system. It was created by INKA, a socially conscious company dedicated to working on the some of the world’s most pressing problems including food production in difficult environments utilizing micro farming technology and vertical hydroponics and aquaponics growing systems. Students will be designing and building working models for an affordable and renewable way to grow food and other useful plants. (Source: http://wiki.oercommons.org)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Humboldt Nutrients Supports Hydro for Hunger In support of the non-profit organization Hydro for Hunger, Humboldt Nutrients donated all of the proceeds from the sales of their t-shirts and hats at the San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo. Their contribution totaled over $1,200. Hydro for Hunger also sold nearly 50 copies of their Easy-Gro DVD training course, which generated nearly $1,000 in revenue. A special thank you to Charles Watson from the Grow Store in Colorado who personally donated $200 and to West Coast Gardener for their $250 donation. The donations collected will be enough to pay for one half of the classroom at the new training facility in the United States. Thank you once again to everyone for their help.

Coconuts Part of Plan to Cut Carbon Emissions Earlier this year, the Maldive Islands vowed to become the first carbon neutral nation by 2020. Their plan includes using coconuts as fertilizer to capture the carbon. The scheme involves using coconut shells to create biochar, which would be used as an organic fertilizer. Assisting the Maldives in this plan is UK-based Carbon Gold who claims that biochar is ‘carbon negative’ and that it’s an effective way to remove carbon from the atmosphere while simultaneously eliminating the need to import fertilizer. The coconut biochar is also believed to increased soil fertility. Some feel it is a short term solution, with no guarantee that the coconut biochar will keep the carbon buried in soil, but this intriguing experiment will allow an island to cut back on its fertilizer imports and cut carbon. (Source: www.earth-stream.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Project Futuna Gets Go Ahead Australia-based hydroponics specialists Hydro Masta Pty Ltd. has been awarded a contract to supply a 2,000 plant hydroponic lettuce system for the island of Futuna in the pacific. Funds have been made available jointly by AUSAID and assistance from the Sous Prefecture of Futuna, under the aegis of the Project of Sustainable Agriculture in the Pacific (DSAP). The objective of the DSAP is to improve food security and the livelihoods of target farm families in the Pacific. As the project develops in the coming months Hydro Masta will be updating hydromasta.com.au with pictures and progress reports of the installation and follow up details of its operation. (Source: www.hydromasta.com.au)

Growers Team up with Food Pantries to Fight Hunger Through a non-profit organization known as Ample Harvest, growers can now waste less and help families in need simultaneously. AmpleHarvest.org was created by Gary Oppenheimer who was troubled by the sheer volume of fresh produce that gardeners were taking to the trash. Ample Harvest unites growers with food pantries across North America, providing an outlet for the excess produce that goes into the trash or the compost. AmpleHarvest.org lists food pantries in their central directory so that gardeners can share their fresh produce and help diminish hunger in America. According to the US Department of Agriculture, well over one billion pounds of food gets thrown away per year. Now with AmpleHarvest.org gardeners can share some of their bounty with neighbors who do not have access to fresh produce, and help lessen world hunger. (Source: www.ampleharvest.org)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Carrboro, NC Hosts “Urban Farm Tour” The Orange Country town of Carrboro in North Carolina hosted an “urban farm tour,” demonstrating to residents the benefits of growing their own food. As part of the annual regional farm tour, this addition showcased community gardens and private growers as well as workshops on lasagna bed preparation and honey harvesting. Educating the community on new and sustainable methods of feeding the world was the tour’s main goal, hoping to inspire the potential for a more productive and tasty urban environment. The tour proved that community farming is more than just a hobby, and can be an element of everyone’s means of gaining access to food. In addition to the education provided, the event was used to raise funds for an urban framing tool library. (Source: www.carrborogreenspace.org)

Hormone Clue to Root Growth

An international group of biological scientists have uncovered new research on how the plant hormone, gibberellin, is crucial in controlling the growth of plant roots. Gibberellin controls how root cells elongate as roots grow; for the first time scientists can describe how this hormone also regulates the number of cells in the root in order to control root growth. The research shows that mutant plants that do not produce the hormone are unable to increase their cell production rate and the size of the root meristem, the zone of cell proliferation. The research was headed by Dr. Susan Ubeda-Tomás and Professor Malcolm Bennett of the Centre for Plant Integrative Biology, in collaboration with scientists in Nottingham, Cambridge, Edinburgh, Spain, Belgium and Sweden. This information will be necessary to address food security and produce better biofuels. (www.sciencedaily.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

MAX

facts

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Making Store Openings into Community Events On August 29 A Fertile World, Humboldt Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier agricultural supply shop, opened its third retail location in the historic town of Arcata, Ca. The atmosphere was that of a neighborhood block party bringing hundreds of customers, spectators and members of the community into the store to enjoy the grandest of Grand Openings. A Fertile World, LLC was honored to have 15 different industry leading companies in attendance including representatives from Sunlight Supply, Hydrofarm, B.W.G.S, Humboldt Nutrients, Lumatek, Smart Pots and R&M Supply. Humboldt Nutrients, LLC, proud sister company of A Fertile World, sponsors local boy hero, pro freestyle motocross rider, Julian Dusseau. Julian convinced his promoters to bring the ramps out for the Grand Opening. Customers and industry reps were treated to a show as Julian performed back flips and many other insane tricks on his motorcycle, in addition to a free BBQ, raffle give-a-ways and huge discounts. By approaching the store opening as an all inclusive party and inviting the community to attend, A Fertile World â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Arcata was able to present itself as an asset to the local community and a fun place to be. (Source: www.afertileworld.com, www.humboldtnutrients.com)

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Atmosphere Launches the New 14’’ V-Series The new V-14XL, part of the Vortex Powerfans V-Series line is a 14 inch inline fan equipped with a mixed flow impeller allowing more air volume than any other comparable impeller design. The V-14XL delivers 2905 CFM at 1500 RPM. Similar to the 12 inch and 16 inch V-Series, this new size will deliver high performance and quiet operations. Furthermore, the heavy gauge steel casing with the hammertone powder coat finish makes it more sound absorbing and rust-proof. As with all of the Vortex Powerfans, the V-14XL allows easy duct hook-up with the extended collar and lip. For more information contact your local grow shop.

Nature’s Solution Sea Kelp Nature’s Solution Sea Kelp is a powdered form of sea kelp that is truly water soluble. The Ascophyllum Nodosuum (sea kelp) has been extracted with a non-chemical based system with no toxic residue. This product was freshly harvested and processed from the cold coastal waters off Iceland in the North Atlantic Sea. Use with Nature’s Solution Compost Tea, Ancient Humate and Mycorrhizae for best results. Use on all indoor and outdoor plants. Mix with water, spray on leaves and plant or put directly on soil. Use one tablespoon of water-soluble sea kelp powder for every five gallons of water and apply directly to soil, water or plant surfaces. Apply to gardens, vegetables, trees, vines and lawn. Kelp is a nutrient that feeds micro-organisms. Approved for organic production, verified to USDA-NOP organic standards. Available from local indoor gardening retailers.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Add the Divine Goodness of Grape to Your Garden Boost fruit flavor and aroma while you increase yields with Botanicare Sweet, now available in a formulation that allows you to add the delicious taste of grapes to whatever you grow! When used during the vegetative stage, its combination of carbohydrates, organic acids and vitamins aid plants in making an easy transition to the flowering stage. Continue using it through the fruiting stage to see your plants keep the correct balance between photosynthesis and respiration, leading to sturdy stem growth to support a multitude of flowers and fruit! Ask for Botanicare Sweet Grape at your local grow shop.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Merlin-Garden Pro Pump Gets Upgraded Hydro-Logic has improved the popular Merlin-Garden Pro pressure booster pump. The pump is needed when the pressure entering the Merlin-GP reverse osmosis filter is less than 40 PSI. By boosting the pressure to 65 PSI, the pump allows the Merlin-GP to flow faster and produce more water per day. We have upgraded the armature components to allow the pump to run for longer periods before it thermal cycles. The original pump had a thermal cycle switch, which protected the pump from overheating. The pump would shut down for a short period of time when it got too hot from continuously running. Now those run times have been extended due to the upgraded parts. We have also added an external heat sink to help pull heat away from the pump. The heat fins snap directly onto the pump and enable it to help you produce the purest water possible. Contact your local hydroponics retailer for more details. Pure waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not magic. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s logic.

PRODUCT spotlight

Introducing Brix+ from Green Planet Wholesale Brix Plus is a unique formula designed to achieve maximum yields. Scientifically designed using only the highest quality ingredients, Brix Plus is readily available for direct absorption into your favorite flower or herb. This 100 per cent totally organic product contains the following naturally derived active ingredients: amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins, triacantinol, enzymes and proven biological enhancers. Brix Plus: • improves color • improves taste • improves yield • is a ready to use formula Available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Brix+ visit your local hydroponics retail store.

The Missing Link – Oxy-Gen Generator Now Available from Greenstar The Oxy-Gen generator outperforms previous methods of aeration, due to increased levels of saturation. Oxy-Gen offers: • more sunlight – supplement with HID lighting • food – formulated high-quality nutrients • CO2 – injection of CO2 gas, CO2 generators • climate control – ventilation fans, air conditioners, humidifiers, de-humidifiers, heaters • water – filters, RO units Plants breathe oxygen through their roots. As the water warms, oxygen levels decrease, making oxygen supplementation necessary. The Oxy-Gen alleviates this problem by raising oxygen levels. The results – healthier water, increased oxygen levels, increased fertilizer uptake, faster growing and larger producing plants. This is all accomplished with one or less amps of electricity, in nutrient tanks up to 400 gallons. For more complete information about this innovative new technology, please contact your local indoor gardening retailer.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

The Brand New Elements is Here The new Nutrifield Elements is a premium four part nutrient specifically optimized for grow and bloom phases. It has been scientifically formulated by Dr. Mohammad Dakakni using pharmaceutical grade salts. Nutrifield Elements contain each of the 16 key macro-, secondary and micro-elements required for plant nutrition and also contain essential amino acids, enzymes and natural plant stimulants. Two years of scientific research is contained in every bottle. Available in one quart, one gallon and four gallons. Visit your nearest indoor gardening retailer to learn more.

Horti-Control Introduces the LF Series Ballast Horti-Control is happy to introduce the LF series ballast output controller, aka the flip flop, to the market. The LF series has been sold through select retailers the past four years. The LF series allows users to switch the output of the HID ballast between two bulbs, without having to power off the ballast! The LF series features plug and play connectors, and an external timer to avoid burn out issues. The Horti-Control LF series flip flop is available in two, four, six, eight 10 and 20 ballast models. All models feature a 15 foot piggy back trigger cable, allowing the user to daisy chain multiple units and control them all with one timer! Ask for the LF Series Ballast now at your local hydroponics retail store. Continued on page 132

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Berry B nanza Growing

Indoor Strawberries by Dr. Lynette Morgan

One of the most exciting challenges of indoor gardening is producing out of season fruits and vegetables. Strawberries are not only colorful, delicious and brimming with healthy compounds, they are also productive plants that yield a surprising abundance of fruit for their compact size. What is even more rewarding is, unlike many other fruiting plants, strawberries can be developing plump berries within a couple of months of planting out chilled plugs or runners. Nowadays large fruited, hybrid strawberry plants can even be raised from seed, a real bonus for hydroponic growers who may be hesitant about introducing soil grown runners and plugs into their system. Strawberry plants, however, have a somewhat interesting physiology when it comes to flowering and fruiting and will need a little pollination assistance indoors, but the rewards are well worth the effort.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

"Hydroponic growers typically buy in either chilled runners or plugs; plant these in a warm environment and they will flower within a few weeks." Strawberry types

Strawberry varieties fall roughly into two different types – the short day and day neutral types. Most of the outdoor grown strawberry types are short day varieties; they will initiate flowers under short day lengths (less then 14 hours) and cool conditions such as occur in winter in temperate climates, and will then flower and fruit as conditions warm up in spring. Day neutral varieties are commonly used by greenhouse and hydroponic producers as they can be manipulated to crop out of season provided warmth and sufficient light is provided. Day neutral strawberry varieties are induced to flower and fruit when temperatures are high enough and these plants can be given an ‘artificial chilling’ period to initiate flowers.Varieties of ‘day neutral’ strawberries include, Selva, Brighton, Seascape, Aptos,Yolo, Diamante, Tristar and Sarian, however, many more exist as plant breeders develop improved varieties over time. Hydroponic growers typically buy in either chilled runners or plugs which have had a period of four to eight under refrigeration (34 – 37°F); plant these in a warm environment and they will flower within a few weeks. Smaller growers may chill their own planting stock by wrapping the clean runners in damp paper and plastic and placing in a refrigerator for six weeks. Either way, the artificial chilling under refrigeration tricks the plant’s physiology into thinking winter has occurred and once they are planted out into the warmth and light, the plant will resume its spring growth pattern of foliage growth, followed by flowering and fruiting.

"Strawberries have always been exclusively vegetatively propagated from runners produced in autumn by mature plants."

Indoor growers using artificial light have the ability to provide any day length and can usually manipulate temperature to a reasonable degree as well; however, reducing day length over several weeks just to trigger Young, NFT-grown strawberry plant in the early stages of flowering. short day strawberry types into flowering is not that practical. The better approach is to select day neutral strawberry varieties by buying in prechilled runners or plugs (termed ‘frigo’ or ‘pre-conditioned’ plants), ready for planting out. This way flowering and fruiting will occur within a few weeks and no time will be wasted under artificial lighting giving several weeks of short days to non-productive plants. In some regions pre-conditioned runners or plugs are available almost year round, however, since this type of planting stock is raised pretty much exclusively for outdoor gardeners, they are often only available in spring. Indoor growers, therefore, may need to consider raising their own planting stock if berries are to be produced out of season. Strawberry plants are relatively easy to propagate and recently there has been the development of large fruiting types that can be raised from seed.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Healthy young strawberry seedlings.

Strawberry propagation

One huge advantage for indoor and hydroponic strawberry growers has been the recent development of large fruiting, commercial quality strawberry cultivars which can be raised from seed. In the past, strawberries have always been exclusively vegetatively propagated from runners produced in autumn by mature plants. Although strawberry seeds (those small brown seeds attached to the "Breeders in the Netherlands outside of the fruit), have developed hybrid have always been able to strawberry types which can germinate, the resulting be grown from seed and will seedlings were not fruit in their first season." ‘true to type’ and often had poor quality fruit and low vigor plants. Breeders in the Netherlands have developed hybrid strawberry types which can be grown from seed and will fruit in their first season (another development as strawberry seedlings can be quite slow to grow to fruiting size). A suitable seed raised variety is ‘Sarian F1’ (Johnny Seeds), or ‘Temptation’ (TM seeds) although no doubt we will be seeing more varieties later on. This means that hydroponic growers don’t need to be reliant on commercially propagated runners which are often dug from the field and contaminated with soil and the pathogens this carries, or by nursery grown plugs, also produced in growing media which can also cause problems in solution culture

Seeds can be collected from the outer surface of berries for sowing, however, these often result in poor quality plants. Hybrid seeds, however, can be purchased now for growers wishing to propagate strawberry plants.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries that hygiene practices, clean growing media and isolation from other strawberry plants can limit the diseases that often cause yield losses in outdoor systems.

Harvesting at the `table ripeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stage will give the best flavored berries.

Strawberries can produce a surprising amount of fruit for a small and compact plant.

systems. Strawberry plants are particularly prone to a number of nasty root rot pathogens which can be carried on planting stock such as runners originating from fields and a number of hydroponic growers have become unstuck because of this. Raising strawberry plants from seed in your own system means

"Strawberries can be grown well in NFT, aeroponics and various modifications on these systems."

Strawberries can also be propagated from runners â&#x20AC;&#x201C; small daughter plants that form on the end of long stolons usually produced towards the end of the cropping season. These will root easily if pinned into a damp growing media or can be clipped from the stolon and rooted under mist like any other clone. Runners or plants purchased in a dormant state (usually available for sale in fall, winter and spring), can be held under refrigeration for as long as four to five months before planting out, allowing the season of fruit producing to be manipulated. However, the longer the plant is under refrigeration, the greater the chance of it losing viability, so only strong, well developed plants or runners should be given the extended chilling storage.

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Strawberry flowers are self fertile but benefit from some pollination assistance when grown indoors.

Planting out

Chilled day neutral runners or plugs can be planted out year round and will flower and fruit provided conditions are warm enough. Strawberries prefer temperatures in the range 72/65°F (day/night) when flowering, although they withstand temperatures as high as 79/72°F and

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still crop well. High temperatures above 86°F start to cause problems with pollen viability and fruit set and growth ceases once temperatures become higher then 91°F. Day neutrals crop well under longer days (16 hours) with good light intensity – they require more light than lettuce, but less than a large fruiting tomato or pepper, and CO2 enrichment to levels of 600 ppm will boost growth and yields. Strawberry plants can be grown in a number of systems, however, the crown of the plant is particularly sensitive to moisture and crown/root rot is the number one cause of strawberry plant deaths. Beginners would be best advised to try their first strawberry crop in a free draining media based system such as perlite or coconut fiber/perlite (50/50) combination, or even rockwool cubes provided they are well drained. This way the plant can be easily positioned with the crown of the plant just above the surface of the media and the free draining

Strawberries benefit from foliar fertilization, particularly when showing signs of chlorosis.

nature of the substrate will assist with preventing over saturation. Drip irrigation systems are favored as ebb and flow can cause salt build-up around the crown which also leads to problems. Strawberries

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Care and maintenance

Vertical systems like the `Hydro Stacker’ are great for strawberry crops in small areas.

can be grown well in NFT, aeroponics and various modifications on these systems – however, the plants need to be well supported so as not to slip down into the nutrient flow and only ‘clean’ plants – i.e. not those coming from soil, should be used due to the root rot pathogens that could be introduce into the system. Solution warming is useful at 68°F particularly when starting new plants which have recently been given a chilling treatment.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Strawberry plants don’t require a lot of maintenance – as the plants develop a lot of foliage, the older leaves should be removed as they age and discolor to assist with air movement up and under the plant’s crown. In the first few weeks of growth any early flowers should be removed until the plant has developed sufficient foliage to support fruit growth (generally at least eight mature leaves). Because of the small and Once flowers have formed, they compact size of the plants, strawberries can yield well in will need pollination assistance. vertical systems provided there is sufficient light. Outdoors bees and insects are responsible for strawberry pollination and although the flowers are self fertile, they benefit from some assistance when grown in greenhouses or indoors. Commercial hydroponic growers use large ‘air blowers’ which direct a moderate blast of air over the flowers each day – this is sufficient to release the pollen and allow it drop from stamen onto the receptacle of each flower. Indoor growers can carry out the same process with a hair dryer (on cold setting) or by tapping the flowers.

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Hydroponic strawberries and flavor

Good pollination is required for large, uniform, and well shaped berries. A lack of pollination will cause misshaped fruit.

Once pollination and fruit set has occurred, any fruit that looks to be misshapen (as a result of inadequate pollination), should be removed as soon as possible so that only perfect fruit develop. Strawberries have the tendency, under good growing conditions, to develop ‘trusses’ of many flowers and set high numbers of fruit in ‘flushes,’ so some flower or fruit thinning may be necessary if very large fruit are to be produced.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Strawberry flavor can be manipulated and indoor hydroponic growers have the perfect opportunity to do this. High light, warmth and good leaf area (as occurs outdoors in summer grown crops) is essential for sugar development in the berries. However, with hydroponics, attention to nutrition also plays a role; good levels of potassium during the fruiting stage, and a moderately high EC (2.4 – 3.0) assist with flavor development and aromatics. Slight moisture stress also concentrates flavor in berries, however, this risks damaging the plants and use of EC control is a better management plant for hydroponics. Genetics also plays a significant role in flavor of strawberries and different varieties can vary considerably in their flavor profile and brix (sweetness levels). The variety ‘Seascape’ seems to give good flavor in many hydroponic systems, but growers might like to trial a few different types and taste the berries to determine which is going to give the highest quality berries.

"Diseases such as Botrytis under high humidity, which can rot the fruit, indicate that more air movement is required around the plants and venting of warm moist air should be increased."

Berry Bonanza: Growing Indoor Strawberries

Pests and diseases

Young plants should be permitted to develop sufficient foliage before fruits are permitted to set.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Strawberries can be prone to a number of root rot pathogens which is why avoidance of soil grown runners and planting stock is the best option for starting a healthy indoor crop. Keeping oxygen levels high in the root zone or nutrient solution also assist strawberry plants in keeping the root zone healthy. Plants also benefit from foliar fertilizer products in the first few weeks after chilling treatment while the new root system is regenerating and sprays of products containing iron and trace elements throughout the life of the crop is also recommended. Pests include the usual indoor culprits â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mites can be a problem when humidity is low; aphids and thrips may also infest plants. Diseases such as Botrytis under high humidity, which can rot the fruit, indicate that more air movement is required around the plants and venting of warm moist air should be increased. The benefit of

indoor crops is they are not prone to the major hassles of outdoor strawberry growers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; birds harvesting the ripe fruit or pecking holes and rain on the fruit causing rot pathogens to attack.

Harvest

Harvesting the ripe fruit is the best reward from an indoor strawberry crop. Berries are best left until they are fully ripe and deep red and cut at the stalk rather than pulled from the plant. Like many fruit, berries will keep under refrigeration, but are best eaten at room temperature within a few hours of harvest. MY

Sources

www.johnnyseeds.com www.tmseed.com www.abz-strawberry.nl You can access all of Dr. Lynette Morgan's articles in our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

GROWING for health

Cheap Organic Food:

by Virginia S. Froyski

Healthy Eating for Little Outlay Difficult economic times usually mean many cuts in spending; unfortunately this probably includes eating organic food but before you give it up entirely consider the suggestions in this article to make it a much cheaper proposition. So how is it possible to carry on eating ? organic food on a budget? The best way to go is to start growing your own.You can do this in two ways: go the whole way and start off with buying organically produced seeds from specialist suppliers or start out with ordinary seeds and raise them the organic way. Avoidance of chemicals is of course the main guiding principal for organically-grown produce. Fortunately you will find commercial products at many garden centers now to help if you do not have organic facilities already in your garden. Pest control has a few organic options one of which is the use of soft soap to remove pests from your plants. This has no harmful chemicals that will affect your medium. Remember that you do not have to turn your whole garden organic but can raise produce like tomatoes, strawberries, peppers and herbs in stand alone containers. In this way you can provide your plants with a mini organic environment which is easily controlled and transportable too. For those people with limited space such as a balcony, containers are a great way to get in on the organic food movement.

Low Cost Shopping for Organic Food If you live in an area close to farmland then you may be lucky enough to have an organic farm from which you can buy produce direct. More and more farmers are producing organic crops; hopefully you can find one nearby. About the Author: Virginia S. Froyski has been living the organic food lifestyle for several years now. Click through to her website, www.organicfoodinfo.net, to try out seven free organic recipes and discover some excellent books on organic food.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Buying from local farmers is beneficial to both parties involved. Farmers get to earn more profit than supermarkets will pay them and you get to sample some very fresh local produce. If you want your children to have fun whilst eating then why not try a â&#x20AC;&#x153;pick your own farmâ&#x20AC;? for selecting organic fruit? The fruit you pick is weighed and you always get a good deal on the price. When you are at the farm take a look around to see what else they sell; you might be able to find some other good deals on over-abundant crops. I hope this article has given you a taste of how to maintain your organic lifestyle whilst keeping the cost at an MY affordable level.

Pre-Veg: Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest by Erik Biksa

Most growers want to harvest a heavy yield as fast as possible; fair enough, as a grower why wouldn’t you want to? Well the truth is, sometimes in a rush to get the crop on the way to intensive growth before the bloom phase, it’s easy to lose sight of the fact that for an optimal reaction to occur, the conditions need to be “primed” first. Sometimes growers may get the reaction they anticipated, although never realizing it could have been a bigger “bang” than they received.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

e Pr : g e V "Once all of the cuttings are showing some root development, and are able to stay hydrated without a humidity dome, they are ready to begin pre-vegging." As the title suggests, I’m recommending a “pre-veg” growth phase before shifting the crop into more intensive growing conditions and nutrient regimens. Now for those of you jumping out of your chairs asking how adding more cropping time can be a good thing, take a few moments and read ahead.You might find that pre-vegging doesn’t necessarily need to add any cropping time, it just changes the way you do things a little. On top of that, you can shave off a little of your electrical consumption and be able to use a slightly smaller growing area for the first couple weeks after your cuttings have rooted successfully. In the end though, it’s all about getting bigger and heavier harvests while maintaining healthier plants that can give the grower fewer problems. In terms of pre-vegging, look at building up the yield potential and health of your crop like building a home; it should start from the foundation up. In the case of plants, when we discuss the foundation, we are naturally talking about the roots. However, during pre-veg the roots are just part of the focus, as healthy and better developed root systems give way to more lush and vigorous shoot and leaf development. Experienced growers know that they achieve their best results when the crop comes “out of the gate” strong with no interruptions or “hiccups” through the development of the plants, starting early in the propagation/rooting phase. However, for the purposes of this article, we will be discussing pre-veg as it pertains to freshly rooted cuttings. Basically, once all of the cuttings are showing some root development, and are able to stay hydrated without a humidity dome, they are ready to begin pre-vegging. For soil/soilless growers, transplanting freshly rooted cuttings or germinated seeds in starter plugs or propagation cubes into pintsized (beer cups) containers provides the ideal balance of moisture and growing medium to the newly developing transplant. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Pre-Veg:Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest

Ready for Pre-Veg: This cutting is ready for pre-veg. Notice the fine white fuzzy hairs. Small, tender root systems like this one need to be handled gently when transplanting.

Hydroponic growers may set freshly rooted cuttings or germinated seeds for transplant on top of, or into larger rockwool blocks of four to six inches or net baskets from three to six inches around filled with "Rough handling can settheir hydroponic medium of back development by choice. several days as well as Be careful when placing creating an early “hiccup” tender transplants into new in the rate of growth." containers or larger cubes. Small roots and fine root hairs are easily damaged. Rough handling can set-back their development by several days as well as creating an early “hiccup” in the rate of growth, something that should be avoided to preserve the integrity of the harvest potential from the beginning stages. Pre-treat rooted cuttings and germinated seedlings before transplant with beneficial microbial inoculants, vitamins, humates, fulvates and root growth promotants. There are some great 100 per cent organic products that fit this bill, and they can be used throughout the pre-veg phase to encourage faster and healthier development of young plants before entering the intensive vegetative growth phase. When the rooted cuttings are pre-treated several hours before the actual transplant occurs, they are more resilient and are less prone to transplant shock. If using soil/soilless mediums, the texture should be moderately course, although able to retain a level of moisture for a period, as the volume of growing medium should be relatively small per plant in the pre-veg phase. If using coco, an additional 1⁄3 of the final volume in medium textured perlite helps to improve drainage and allows for higher air ratios around the 60

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roots that help to encourage beneficial microbial growth in the developing root system. Professional peat-based growing mixes that contain perlite are excellent for the pre-veg phase. Certain growers that create “living hydroponics” hybrid systems start their transplants in the pre-veg phase in peat mixes, before transplanting into three to five gallon buckets that contain grow "Combination of biological activity in conjunction with the hydroponic growing medium helps to create a “hybrid system” of bio and hydro." stones. By inoculating the plants with beneficial microbial products while they are smaller in stature in a relatively small volume of organic growing medium, helps to carry on with healthy biological activity throughout the rest of the bloom phase. This combination of biological activity in conjunction with the hydroponic growing medium (grow stones), helps to create a “hybrid system” of bio and hydro. The results can be outstanding with careful management. Make sure that there is adequate drainage in the beer-cups or pint sized containers you use for pre-vegging soil and soilless plants. It’s important the roots can breathe, without drying out during this phase for optimal results. Place the containers in nursery flats with a webbed insert, to further promote drainage and air circulation beneath the containers within the tray(s). Rockwool should always be pre-treated for a minimum of 24 hours before setting in freshly rooted cuttings or young seedlings. Rockwool is alkaline by nature, so it needs to be soaked in an acid solution of pH 5.0 for 24 hours prior to transplanting to help neutralize Rockwool the alkaline pH charge that is inherent to rockwool. Adding a transplant solution that will help to create no shock later in transplant to the pre-soak can also be beneficial. Fulvic acid is also a beneficial additive to include during the pre-conditioning of rockwool cubes, blocks and slabs. It helps to balance the chemistry in the medium and has proven to encourage healthy root development. Grow rocks often contain micro-pore spaces. These micro-pores can be pre-treated with beneficial microbial inoculants prior to transplant freshly rooted cuttings or young seedlings. To accomplish this, pre-soak lecca MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Pre-Veg:Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest stone and similar materials in a bucket of solution containing beneficial fungi and super-bacteria along with humic, fulvic and vitamins; which can Simply put, don’t be found as combined squish the mix around products in some 100 per the plant too hard! cent organic additives. Add the growing medium and gently aerate. About four hours or so is typically long enough; remember those microbes want to live with roots, not under-water! Discard the pre-soak solution on house plants or outdoor soil plants. Now that your pre-veg medium is charged, it will encourage a quick-strike of roots through the growing medium once you transplant; keeping in the theme of “no interruptions in healthy and consistent growth” to create maximum yields months later. Gently transplant the freshly rooted cuttings or young seedlings into the pre-veg medium or containers. Place the containers in trays or chosen growth system. In soil and soilless growth mediums, take care not to over-compact the growing medium when filling up containers The first that have your transplants watering is the most in them. The goal is to important! have sufficient contact between the roots and growth medium, while ensuring that there is plenty of pore space for air; which encourages healthy and

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robust development that leads to thicker and juicer roots in transplants. Simply put, don’t squish the mix around the plant too hard! The first watering is very important; it helps to fasten the roots of the transplants to the fresh growth medium. However, you don’t want to over-saturate soil and soilless mediums, reducing the pore space available for air, as it will be filled with water/nutrient solution. Some crop feeding nutrient schedules and nutrient calculators include pre-veg formulas and combinations of nutrients. Typically, the overall EC/PPM is quite mild, approximately 0.5 EC/350 ppm. If using conventional crop nutrients, you will need to adjust the pH to the optimal range for your particular growth medium for best results. Some newer innovative technologies use a combination of self adjusting pH molecules and space-age chelates, reportedly eliminating the need to adjust the pH manually; the solution takes care of itself through a series of checks and balances of chemical reactions. Besides being of milder EC values, pre-veg feeding programs should contain a full spectrum of bio-active ingredients like humates, fulvates, root stimulators, vitamins and co-factors as well as a full and balanced macro- and micro-nutrient pack from the

Pre-Veg:Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest

Pre-Veg Chamber: Plants in pre-veg wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need a lot of room. Good quality light and gentle air-circulation helps to create healthy transplants that yield bigger later on.

base nutrient formulation. Microbial inoculants encourage faster and stronger root development, and help to protect tender young plants from potential diseases such as root and stem rot.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Note that nutrient systems that offer a tailored micro-nutrient pack are preferred over formulas that use the same micro-nutrient pack for both growth and bloom phases. Research has demonstrated that plants in the veg and bloom phase have unique nutrient requirements, which includes micro-nutrients. In short, the goal of the nutrient regimen in pre-veg is to supply a mild, complete and balanced charge of nutrients, while providing a high degree of healthy biological activity in the root zone; low nutes, high bio-activity. By the end of the pre-veg phase the goal is to have gained several sets of healthy and very green leaves without over-fertilization, while creating a very prolific, vibrant, and microbial active root system. Plants that begin their life cycle fitting this description will later yield larger and better quality harvests, and are less prone to costly and harmful insect and disease issues. Over fertilization in preveg will produce soft, spindly transplants that while tall, are not going to give you the nutrient hungry monsters you are after. Optimal temperatures in this phase are important to stimulate a high rate of bio-activity within the plant and root medium. Excessively warm and dry conditions create stressed plants that are prone to insect attacks, while cooler, wetter conditions provide an entry point for many types of plant diseases. Obviously, it can work the other way too; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to understand the ramifications of growing crops outside of the optimal range of conditions.

Pre-Veg:Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest developed newer plants. Humidity levels can be slightly higher at this time, depending on the strain and plant variety. Most gardeners find that 60 to 70 per cent “For pre-veg, a 75°F to relative humidity (RH) works best 80°F temperature usually for pre-veg. The slightly higher proves to be optimal.″ RH level (versus other growth phases) helps to reduce water loss through the leaves, while the root system is still developing to support the needs of the shoots and leaves. If it is too dry, the increased rate of water loss may stunt growth, while higher humidity levels will reduce water loss through the leaves too greatly, creating “lazy” root growth. Optimal lighting levels in pre-veg are relatively low, although higher than the levels of light intensity that are provided in the early propagation phase. Most growers find that T5 or CFL lighting is economical and practical for the pre-veg growth phase, although LED lighting could certainly be effective, provided it is supplied in more than just red and blue wavelengths. With fluorescent lighting, a balanced spectrum, higher in the blue bandwidth, for example 4500 kelvin is optimal for many Pre-Veg: The Results! Notice the significant difference in root mass that strains and varieties of plants. However, growers are encouroccurs during a 10 day pre-veg cycle; this plant will have an appetite! aged to experiment, as different strains appear to prefer different For pre-veg, a 75°F to 80°F temperature usually proves to be spectrums at different times in their development. optimal, and should remain constant. At this temperature a high If using a light meter (recommended) and T5 or compact fluorate of bio-activity is encouraged without stressing out the lessrescent lighting of 1000 to 1200 lumens proves to work very

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Pre-Veg:Your Missing Link to a Bigger Harvest well in supplying young plants in the pre-veg phase with adequate light levels, while not pushing the tender young plants too hard, causing stresses that may reduce yield potential or invite problems. Consider that after the pre-veg phase your army of young super-plants will be ready to maximize increased light levels and nutrients, making your more intensive inputs more effective. For more information on optimal lighting levels in other phases, consult the Maximum Yield online archive (www.maximumyield.com) on Controlled Environment Agriculture. If available, you may consider lightly elevating carbon dioxide levels in the pre-veg growth phase. Levels of 600-800 ppm (parts per million) of CO2 supply enough carbon dioxide to help catalyze a high rate of bio-activity in the developing transplants during the pre-veg phase. Bottled CO2 can be used efficiently in smaller areas that are using lower intensity lighting, as they don’t create as much heat that needs to be vented away versus HID lamps. LEDs are even more advantageous in this respect. Usually, the pre-veg phase lasts 10 to 14 days before transplanting into larger containers or the final growing system.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

During this time, gradually increase aircirculation and nutrient levels, although you are advised to do so in moderation. The key is not to stress the plant, while not letting it get too “lazy” in the early developmental phase. At the end of this period, you should be rewarded with a healthy crop of lush, green eight to 10 inch tall transplants that have vibrant and fuzzy white roots systems. These “super” transplants will usually need less time in the vegetative growth phase to reach their ideal stature before being induced to flower. They will develop more prolifically because they are ready to, and will need less time to adjust to more intensive conditions; in fact after pre-vegging, they are craving them! It’s usually a good idea to pre-veg a few more plants than you will need to transplant in order to fill your garden; this way you can pick the strongest and best developed, further helping you to ensure maximum yields every time you crop-out. MY To learn how to treat micro-pores contained in grow rocks, visit our Online Extra section on maximumyield.com

BEGINNER'S

corner

Determining Which Hydroponic Grow System Best Suits Your Needs by Charlotte Bradley

Would you like to jump-start and extend your growing season and have access to fresh produce year-round? If yes, a hydroponic garden may be the answer.

There are hydroponic grow systems on the market to suit any type of gardener. The bottom line is deciding: • how much time you have to devote to the project • what your budget is • how much space you have • what plants you want or need to grow Once you have identified how much of a commitment you want to make, you will need to match your needs with a system that meets them. If you are just starting out, the ebb and flow and drip systems are great for beginners because they are not complicated and not too costly, yet they produce very good results. The first system that I ever tried was an ebb and flow (sometimes called flood and drain) and I was thrilled with the beautiful tomato plants that I was able to grow one winter in my sunroom. The advantage of a hydroponically-based system is that it is versatile and can be adapted to any environment.You can easily nurture an indoor garden so that it flourishes with a simple, inexpensive system and expands as your new hobby grows. Let’s start with becoming familiar with how growing systems may be categorized. A hydroponic system can be identified as: 1. Active: A hydroponic system that actively moves or circulates the nutrient solution (usually through a pump). 70

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

The advantage of a hydroponically-based system is that it is versatile and can be adapted to any environment. You can easily nurture an indoor garden so that it flourishes with a simple, inexpensive system and expands as your new hobby grows.

2. Passive: A hydroponic system that relies on capillary action of a wet wick. 3. Recovery: A hydroponic system that re-circulates nutrients. 4. Non-recovery: A hydroponic system that applies nutrient solution to the growing system, which is not recovered. 5. Bare Root System: A hydroponic system that does not use a growing medium. 6.Substrate System: A hydroponic system that uses a growing medium to support the roots, such as rockwool, perlite or vermiculite.

Now that we understand some of the characteristics, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apply it to some choices of hydroponic systems on the market today. Here are some variations: The Wick System This passive, non-recovery system does not require a pump. A candle wick or thicker oil lantern wick is used to move the nutrient solution from the growing medium to the root system of the plant. Passive systems are the more inexpensive route, but can be too wet for healthy plant growth and thus tend to be less productive. The Ebb and Flow System Also called flood and drain, this is an active recovery system that uses a pump to move the nutrient solution to the roots of the plant where oxygen depleted air is replaced with oxygen rich air. The pump stays on for about 20 minutes and when the nutrient solution reaches a certain level, the overflow tube drains the water back down into the reservoir. Due to low maintenance and a higher margin for error, this is a good choice for beginners. The Nutrient Film Technique Characterized as an active recovery system, an NFT consists of slanted grow tubes where gravity assists the solution back into the reservoir. Solution is pumped into a grow tube where the roots are exposed. This system is higher maintenance and requires more technical knowledge to troubleshoot. It is less forgiving as roots are completely dependent upon the constant flow of pumped nutrients for sustenance. The Continuous Drip This is considered an active system that uses a pump to push solution to nutrient lines connected to each plant. It may be recovery or non-recovery depending on whether a tray is used underneath to collect and re-circulate the solution. A growing medium, such as rockwool, is used to stabilize the plant. This is another good beginner system. Aeroponic In aeroponic systems, plant roots are constantly misted with nutrient solution (active, recovery). In this bare root system, roots are suspended in midair and receive air constantly; nutrient mist is 20 per cent oxygen and plants can access maximum amounts of oxygen possible resulting in tremendous growth. These are generally suited to the more advanced gardener. For flexibility, if your needs are small-scale and you want an uncomplicated set-up for growing small tomatoes, herbs, lettuce and small plants, the ebb and flow and drip systems are a better choice. If your goal is to produce bigger plants or plants that carry a heavier fruit, a bucket system is more efficient. As you become more experienced you may want to try out an NFT (great for strawberries and herbs) or a more challenging but highly productive aeroponic system. MY MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Food Production

Pyramid

Part II by Lee McCall

The key to a successful harvest begins with a solid foundation for understanding the nutritional needs of a crop. Experimentation is essential for progressive flora development, yet in a controlled and moderate process so as to track effective and non-effective variables that influence growth characteristics. Part one of this series discussed the relevance of selecting a base nutrient system to fit the needs of your gardening style.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

After establishing this designated foundation of support for your custom regiment, assorted organic and synthetic additives used in correct sequence will help build a successful diet to equate dense foliage structure and healthy fruit/flower formation. Some of my personal favorite products included enzyme formulas to help keep roots and mediums clean of debris and fertilizer build-up and compost teas rich

in microbiology that aid in nutritional delivery, stimulate metabolic activity and provide beneficial inoculation for rhizosphere enhancement. Among others, kelp supplements derived from Ascophyllum nodosum and Laminaria digitata were briefly discussed. Packed full of vitamins and key minerals, these organic additives help ensure lush vegetative growth and vigorous floral production. Lastly mentioned were guanos, bat varieties in particular. The magical effects of this excrement stimulate all phases of growth, specifically bloom cycles, increasing the number of bud sites on plants and trees, promoting heavy yields and profuse aromatic qualities. Part two expands the pyramid further, as more additives contribute towards the peak of success. As other ingredients begin to show signs of progressive effect, there is still much more available to add substantial nourishment to the garden, and reap a bountiful "Carbohydrate harvest. In every growth supplements derived cycle factors may fluctuate; from monosaccharides, however, considering disaccharides and that pH is preferable and polysaccharides enhance consistent, environmental the overall biomass and factors are ideal, i.e. proper cell-division properties lighting, air movement, within the genetic structure temperature and humidity. of plants and trees." Assuming all conditions suit the specific crop of choice, production should be evidently vibrant and healthy as potential flowering sites emerge from internodes and flora structured peaks. Useful from beginning to end, carbohydrate supplements derived from monosaccharides, disaccharides and polysaccharides enhance the overall biomass and cell-division properties within the genetic structure of plants and trees.

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Food Pyramid Production: Part II Containing ingredients like molasses, various fruit extracts and cane sugar, these sweet additives for the garden are available from numerous companies each with their own distinct properties and fortified blends. Gardens and orchards under the influence of these particular augments undergo stressfree transitions from one phase of growth to the next. Many varieties incorporate the help of select amino acids to ensure successful transportation of nutritional elements to the garden. Beneficial bacteria, fungi and compost inoculations will feed off these carbohydrate sources as well promoting faster and stronger colonization in the roots and grow medium. Weight gain is a common result "Worm castings are excellent in many fruit, flower for use as a top dressing and vegetable bearing and amendment to fresh or crops as density of depleted soils and soilless flesh and seed pods is mixes and works as an added dramatically increased boost of mild nutrition for all from infliction of stages of growth." the supplementation. Nutritional value of the end product is also improved through stimulation of terpenoid production, which relates directly to aroma and colors in many cultivated crops. These qualities are direct proof of a superior product, and are distinguished from many gardens that do not utilize the advantageous properties of these compounds. Integrate these products throughout the duration of a cropâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growth and bloom cycle in conjunction with other metabolic stimulators to reveal the inevitable differentiation in crop quality.

Worm castings are a great source of organic nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and add structure and biological life to potting soils and reservoir solutions for commercial and hobby gardeners. This by-product of vermicomposting is excellent for use as a top dressing and amendment to fresh or depleted soils and soilless mixes and works as an added boost of mild nutrition for all stages of growth. I particularly favor this valuable waste for supporting fragile seedlings and rooted cuttings that require healthy starts for optimum growth after 74

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Food Pyramid Production: Part II transplant. Castings are able to slowly release safe amounts of nutrition to the root zone lowering the "Plants need calcium risk of fertilizer burn, for proper cell and and making the medium bloom growth." desirable for sensitive crops. Liquid forms referred to as â&#x20AC;&#x153;teaâ&#x20AC;? make the use of hydroponic application as easy as soil gardening.Very similar to compost tea, beneficial organisms naturally occurring in these blends must not contact chlorinated water sources for the best possible results. Use worm casting products for vegetative stages in crops to build strong healthy roots and foliage in preparation for any bloom cycles the garden will endure. If gardening outdoors, revitalize garden plots with this amendment to enrich the site for the following year. Similar to healthy bone structure and development in the human body, plants need calcium for proper cell and bloom growth. A deficiency of calcium is often misconstrued for a variety of problems, however, if assessed early on before damage has a chance to occur, is easily deterred in process. Liquid and dry forms are available to the market derived from calcium carbonate, the same substance from which egg shells are composed.

These manufactured sources compliment many nutrition programs, and provide all the difference in a cropâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s end result at harvest time. Calcium is essential for proper fruit and flower formation; a lack of it may result in blossom end rot and poor foliage growth. Processed calcium additives make the nutritional element soluble compared to that of raw form. The popular form known as lime helps to stabilize pH value in soil and soilless 76

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Food Pyramid Production: Part II applications, by counteracting the acidic value in the root zone that results from many different nutrients. Coconut coir users in particular should supplement with calcium additives throughout the duration of the growth cycle as this medium tends to restrict crops from sufficient assimilation. Calcium deficiencies may commonly occur after the first few weeks of a plant’s flowering regiment has initiated. Begin use at the first signs of bloom to prevent malformation and maintain productivity.

“Phosphorus and potassium boosters usually containing minimal or no traces of nitrogen are effective during the onset of flowering and ripening stages.” In addition to all the popular organic treatments for valuable crops, synthetic additives are extremely effective as well, inflicting instantaneous and even mutative results. Phosphorus and potassium boosters usually containing minimal or no traces of nitrogen are effective during the onset of flowering and ripening stages. When used during the initial days of a crop’s blooming phase, these products can literally jump start a plant or tree into fruit production without any lag time many growers experience in the first and second week of production. Pre-flowering characteristics are noticeable in as little as the first week of bloom. Implement the same product in the last two to three weeks of the fruiting or flowering cycle to impose adequate weight gain and immediate ripening effects. Examples of these synthetic enhancers might appear with ratios such as 2-45-28, 0-50-30, 0-42-27, 0-39-25, etc. The dense phosphate based stimulators should be used with caution as sensitive crops are easily burned as a result from nutritional overdose. Small experimental increments are always best when introducing any nutrient into a garden for the first time. Aside from nutrients, oxygen is an important part of a garden’s ecology. I have encountered numerous gardeners that use hydrogen peroxide in their nutritional recipes in attempt to add this precious element to improve root health. As an excellent sterilization compound, I highly recommend H202 for disinfecting hydroponic systems and equipment between crop cycles. Ensure that equipment is thoroughly rinsed clean if peroxide is used for cleaning purposes. When used in conjunction with nutrient formulas, it intensifies the available oxygen density to the root zone. DO NOT use hydrogen peroxide with organic nutrients or microbial additives as the disinfectant properties can render them inactive. If the desire is to increase oxygen availability in organic gardening practices, utilize air stones instead.

"Municipal water supplies treated with large amounts of chlorine or chloramines are devastating to organic gardening practices." 78

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Construction of the essential brew for a garden would not be complete without a pure water source. I cannot stress enough, municipal water supplies treated with large amounts of chlorine or chloramines are devastating to organic gardening practices. Investing in a high quality de-chlorinator and sediment filter for normal tap sources of less than 250 parts per million promises huge rewards come harvest time. They are inexpensive, retailing for around $100 and do not require an added waste line like reverse osmosis (RO) machines. RO machines, however, should be used for any supply that registers above 300 parts per million out of the tap, as the excessive amounts of mineral deposits may obstruct nutritional delivery. Avoid using water from pitcher and faucet filters as these are known to add fluoride into the source for added taste desirable for human consumption, yet harmful to gardens. Although the world of hydroponic and soil nutrients is vast and competitive, assembly of a custom food pyramid is not out of reach. Through trial, error and documentation, every hobby and commercial gardener has the luxury of nutritional manipulation. Research and experiment with various products and crops to yield the best result, and void redundancy from regiments. MY

Access all of Lee McCall's articles on www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Organics

Back to the Future

"Organic agriculture is the oldest form of cultivation." by Luis Bartolo 80

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For centuries organic cultivation has been the only form of agriculture on earth. With this article we will look into the history of organic cultivation, how it has developed and where it stands today. So letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time travel to the past and the beginning of organic cultivation. But first, we must ask: What is organic agriculture? Organic agriculture is the oldest form of cultivation. Organic farming was, and remains, a labor-intensive process. Manures, composts, seaweed and many other natural ingredients were collected and then often left for long periods of time to become useful, after which they would be manually applied to the earth in order to begin to work their natural magic. This was always how it was, the endless cycles of nature feeding nature.

At the onset of the 20th century and the progress of the industrial technology it was discovered that fertilizers could be made artificially through scientific methods. Recently developed chemical technologies became useful for agricultural production. Superphosphate was discovered through treating bones with sulphuric acid; lime soon replaced bones as the phosphorous source by dissolving the rock in sulphuric acid. The start of the world wars meant an increasing number of men of working age were sent away from their fields to go to war, and with the enginery of war came further developments in synthetic fertilisers. For example, ammonium nitrate used for munitions during WWII evolved into ammonium nitrate fertilizer; organophosphate nerve gas production led to the development of powerful insecticides. These technical advances have resulted in significant economic benefits as well as environmental and social detriments. They have led to negative impacts on society and the environment, such as pesticide pollution and insect pest resistance. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Back to the Future Organics

The term organic is defined by law, as opposed to the labels “natural” and “eco-friendly”. Instead of using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, organic farmers utilize crop rotations, cover crops and natural-based products to maintain or enhance soil fertility. These farmers rely on biological, cultural and physical methods to limit pest expansion and increase populations of beneficial insects on their farm. Because genetically modified organisms (GMOs) constitute synthetic inputs and pose unknown risks, GMOs such as herbicide-resistant seeds, plants and product ingredients, like GM-lecithin, are disallowed in organic agriculture. Organic agriculture today seeks to utilize technological advances that consistently yield benefits, including new varieties of crops; precision technologies; more efficient machinery, etc.

Definition or·gan·ic (ôr-g n k) adj. Of, relating to, or derived from living organisms: organic matter. a. Of, marked by, or involving the use of fertilizers or pesticides that are strictly of animal or vegetable origin: organic vegetables; an organic farm. b. Raised or conducted without the use of drugs, hormones or synthetic chemicals: organic chicken; organic cattle farming. c. Simple, healthful and close to nature: an organic lifestyle. According to the USDA National Organic Standards Board (NOSB), organic agriculture is defined as “an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles and soil biological activity. It is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain or enhance ecological harmony. The primary goal of organic agriculture is to optimize the health and productivity of interdependent communities of soil life, plants, animals and people.” (NOSB, 1997) The term organic is defined by law, as opposed to the labels “natural” and “ecofriendly,” which may imply that some organic methods were used in the production of the foodstuff, but this label does not guarantee complete adherence to organic practices as defined by a law. Most “natural” products do not contain synthetic products, but may have been provided conventional (synthetic chemicals used in production) food or feed (as in “natural” beef). 82

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With the development of the sector of organic agriculture, some European nations began to pass laws that defined, controlled and regulated organic farming. But the lack of a common European norm and the astuteness of too many false organic producers who labeled their products as natural, ecological or from organic cultivation, made life hard for the careful consumer who wanted to buy the real organicallycultivated products. Finally in 1991, the CEE regulation 2092/91 was issued, the first of dozens of European norms that in the past 15 years have defined organic farming from all of views: production, processing, labeling, marketing, importation and control. In organic farming nothing is left to change; in fact, it is the most clear-cut and controlled system of farming that exists. Rules of crop production The following is a list of the general rules that have to be followed by a commercial farm that decides to produce in accordance to the norms and the regulations of organic cultivation. Period of conversion: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not possible to pass from one day to the next from a system of conventional farming to an organic one. It is necessary that the transformation happens gradually; for this reason a period of conversion is applied. In this period all the specific productive norms are followed but the harvested crops cannot be sold as â&#x20AC;&#x153;organic.â&#x20AC;? During the passage from conventional agriculture to organic the minimum period of conversion is an average of two years.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Back to the Future Organics

"In organic farming the use of chemical fertilizers is forbidden." Fertilizers: In organic farming the use of chemical fertilizers is forbidden. When it is necessary to reinstate organic substances into the ground, the organic farmer has different options. The first is green manure - that is the burial of plants grown just for the purpose of enriching the soil. Legumes are used most often. The organic enrichment can be completed using zootechnic dejections that are incorporated into the ground, opportunely treated, deriving from animal organic production, under the limit fixed by the EU norms (170 kilograms/hectare of nitrogen per year) and other organic material, compost or not, always produced by organic farms/manufacturers. Also organic fertilizers of vegan and animal are admitted.

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Benefits of organics: • Mobilizes existing soil nutrients, so that good growth is achieved with lower nutrient densities while wasting less. • Releases nutrients at a slower, more consistent rate, helping to avoid a boom-and-bust pattern. • Helps retain soil moisture, reducing the stress due to temporary moisture loss. • Improves the soil structure. • Helps prevent topsoil erosion. • Organic fertilizers also have the advantage of avoiding certain problems associated with the regular use of artificial fertilizers: • The necessity of reapplying artificial fertilizers regularly (and perhaps in increasing quantities) to maintain fertility. • Extensive runoff of soluble nitrogen and phosphorus, leading to eutrophication of bodies of water (which causes fish death). • Costs are lower if fertilizer is locally available.

GMO = Genetically Modified Organism GEO = Genetically Engineered Organism GMOs What is a GMO? A genetically modified organism (GMO) or genetically engineered organism (GEO) is an organism whose genetic material has been altered using genetic engineering techniques. These techniques, generally known as recombinant DNA technology, use DNA molecules from different sources, which are combined into one molecule to create a new set of genes. This DNA is then transferred into an organism, giving it modified or novel genes. Transgenic organisms, a subset of GMOs, are organisms which have inserted DNA that originated in a different species. Some GMOs contain no DNA from other species and are therefore not transgenic but cisgenesis. The usage of genetically modified plants and animals is absolutely forbidden in organic farming, while it is possible to use the traditional techniques of genetic improvement. And now, we come back to the future. So we can see the 150 year gap in organic farming was only a small moment of time in the history of the earth. We can only hope that the damage done is not irrevocable. Fortunately for us and our planet, the promotion of environmental issues and the championing of organics above chemicals is evident all around us. For many years this was the domain of alternative culture, often derided. Yet as the evidence has proven the quick fix hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worked. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time again to go back to the basics MY before it is too late.

You can access all of Luis' articles by visiting our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

TIPS &

tricks

by Erik Biksa

Stability and Longevity The question on the table today is does CO2 go “stale” (for lack of a better term). Most substances, and molecules for that matter, are in a constant state of flux and are changing states, or the way they are formed on an atomic level. Arguably carbon may be one of the most stable molecules we have, and it’s a very important one. However, carbon dioxide is not just carbon, it is CO2 so there are two oxygen molecules attached, and oxygen can be relatively reactive. O2 as a compound offers a little more stability than something like O3, which is ozone. The extra oxygen molecule wants to leave the arrangement, as O2 is more stable. In most indoor growing situations, the CO2 in the growing atmosphere gets used up astonishingly quickly when plants are healthy and productive, and also depend on the stage the plants are at in the cropping cycle. This is why it makes good sense to enrich the environment with a supplemental source of clean carbon dioxide if ventilation through outside air exchange is not constant during the lights on cycle. Ensuring that CO2 levels remain higher than ambient through various stages in the cropping cycle can increase yields by as much as 30 per cent and often reduce the overall amount of cropping time required, because plants produce at accelerated rates. In most situations, it seems that the most likely scenario is that the additional levels of CO2 will get used up faster than they may be able to degrade. However, it’s doubtful that any carbon dioxide enrichment system is 100 per cent efficient, meaning that other less desirable compounds may be introduced as gases when delivering elevated carbon dioxide levels to crops. For example trace amounts of ethylene and carbon monoxide may be introduced using gas-fired CO2 generators. Since the plants do not want to use or absorb these gaseous compounds, they may build up to harmful levels in a tightly sealed growing

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environment; becoming toxic to plants. Also, for gas fired burners (CO2 generators) to work efficiently, they require a source of fresh air for the combustion process. Savvy operators of CEA (Controlled Environment Agriculture) or sealed grow set-ups allow for a slight “bleed” of the air to occur. For example, to ensure a very healthy growing atmosphere, a proportionately small, passive fresh air access is created and is “capped” off with a HEPA intake filter, as featured in some of my articles. With a carbon scrubber (activated carbon filter with fan) cycling constantly within the area, it will pull a small amount of fresh air into the grow room through the small passive HEPA intake. Excess air will “leak” out of the growing environment through any tiny cracks, etc. Remember it’s almost impossible to 100 per cent seal a room, so there are some cracks for the air to bleed out. The volume of fresh air being introduced is cleaned through the HEPA filter and does not introduce contaminants, just enough fresh air to help displace stale air or gases that can accumulate to toxic levels. Imagine a full glass of water that has a few drops added every minute; the volume of liquid will slowly be exchanged over time, keeping it fresh and palatable. MY

A HEPA filter can clean the air Passive, fresh air can be introduced to the grow set-up by using a HEPA intake filter. When combined with a fan that cycles air through the environment, the filter will help to remove any contaminants and provide a healthy growing atmosphere.

Climate Controllers: Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success by Isabelle Lemay agr. and Mélissa Léveillé

In indoor gardening, the ultimate goal is always quality harvests with maximum yields; invested time and money must be profitable! A conscientious gardener will take care of measuring his harvests to determine the profit of his garden after each crop. How? For example, simply counting and classifying the fruits and flowers according to their size or to weigh the leaves or the harvested fruits.What’s important is to find a suitable method to quantify the different parts of the plant in which we are interested. As one production varies from another, it is important to take note of the parameters used for each of them.This way, we better understand the crop’s evolution and it becomes possible to identify the ideal “recipe” to gain maximum benefit. In order to find that famous “recipe” and to repeat it again, it is necessary to work with precise instruments! 88

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"An appropriate calibration of your climate controllers is essential because false readings bring inadequate actions which in return cause unwanted situations that affect the productivity."

Calibration In your indoor garden, the thermometer shows 75°F, the hygrometer reads 58 per cent and the CO2 (carbon dioxide) controller, 1048 ppm (parts per million). So, you think your plants are comfortable and existing in the best conditions. But now, leaves are curling and some mildew has developed. Your harvest prospect looks disappointing, in other words, less quantity and less quality. What’s happening? Since the beginning of the crop, you took good care of following every step of your usual recipe, which every time produced good results. It could be that the measuring devices for the temperature, humidity and CO2 concentration give false readings. What’s the problem? Could it be the calibration? The calibration of measuring devices has the goal to obtain an exact value of what we wish to measure. The calibration’s action is to adjust a measuring instrument against a standard measurement of which the precision is certain. In indoor gardening, an appropriate calibration of your climate controllers is essential because false readings bring inadequate actions which in return cause unwanted situations that affect the productivity. With such a chain reaction, it becomes difficult to identify the true source of the problem. When to calibrate Just as the majority of sensors are factory calibrated, it is recommended to verify the exactitude of the calibration at installation time and every crop start, particularly for CO2 sensors, which are considerably more fragile and subject to an important reading variation. A simple shock, in transportation or at the installation, is enough to make the sensor reading slip away from the true value. From our experience, we recommend calibrating NDIR CO2 sensors before each crop or every three months to offer your plants the best possible growing conditions. Some CO2 controllers even display a reminder message to calibrate it at regular intervals. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success

"Without a reliable

How to calibrate reference value, we risk Calibration methods falsifying the reading vary according to even more from what the controller and it was originally." sensor’s type. But for all calibration, the basic principle to remember is to use a reliable reference. We can think about a mercury thermometer for the temperature, a psychrometer for relative humidity or a calibration kit for CO2 sensors (figure 1). Without a reliable reference value, we risk falsifying the reading even more from what it was originally. Among calibration methods, some are more effective while others are to be completely avoided. Off Set When a controller or sensor can’t be calibrated, which is often the case for temperature and relative humidity sensors, it is possible to validate its precision by comparing its reading to a reliable measuring device. Simply note the difference on a piece of paper and place it near the controller to remember adding or subtracting a given value to the displayed reading. Then, adjusting the controller’s set point to apply the corrected value will be needed. For example, in the case of a controller displaying two degrees more than the real value, it will be necessary to add two degrees to the set point to obtain the desired temperature. However, this method might become tedious and can be subject to errors. Fortunately, there are some electronic controllers that allow correction of their reading by adding or subtracting automatically a value to the controller’s reading (off set). This way, the controller displays a corrected reading and applies it to its programming! The calibration limits Although practical, the calibration with another reference has its limits. Remember that

Figure one: Mercury thermometer, psychometer and CO2 sensor calibration kit at 1000 ± 20ppm.

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scientific uncertainty analysis adds up errors from the measuring instruments. In other words, the calibration is affected by both controllers’ imprecision deviations. Let’s take for example a CO2 controller. With a precision of ± 75 ppm for the sensor to be calibrated and a similar ± 75 ppm reference controller, we would obtain on the newly calibrated controller readings within ± 150 ppm from the actual CO2 concentration; there’s the importance of having a reference as precise as possible. In the particular case of a CO2 sensor, the method by comparison also presents other inconveniences. In fact, we have to assure that the CO2 concentration is as stable as possible during the whole calibration process, which is not an easy task in a non isolated environment. The simple fact of breathing (between 30,000 to 40,000 ppm) near the controller significantly influences the sensor! So which method should be adopted for this type of sensitive sensor that requires regular calibration?

"To obtain a calibration as precise Calibration kit for as possible, the ideal CO2 sensors way is to calibrate The ideal calibration the controller with a method is to expose the gas mix that has a sensor or the controller to a gas mix with a concentration close known and certified CO2 to the one desired in the garden (around concentration. Some sensors have a built-in calibration 1000 ppm)."

circuit in which we vaporize a known concentration gas mix. Most of the horticultural controllers used in indoor gardening do not have such a circuit. We can then place the controller in a sealed bag to protect it against human breathing, remove the air from the bag and replace it with a known CO2 concentration mix (figure two). Then, just follow the user’s manual calibration instructions. Like every precision measurement device, we have to remember that a CO2 sensor will be inaccurate at its measurement scale limits, for example around 0 and 5000 ppm. To obtain a calibration as precise as possible, the ideal way is to calibrate the controller with a gas mix that has a concentration close to the one desired in the garden (around 1000 ppm). Some retailers and manufacturers offer, at an affordable price, a calibration service using this precise and reliable method. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Calibration for Indoor Gardening Success

According to the calibration number to make and frequency, it might be worthwhile for the gardener to get a calibration kit.

Figure two: The controller has been placed in a sealed bag to protect it against human breathing, a factor that significantly influences the sensor.

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Why not calibrate CO2 sensors outdoors? For many years, CO2 controller manufacturers have recommended the outdoor calibration method, for want of anything better. This method suggests an average outdoor CO2 concentration from 350 to 400 ppm, which is never truly right at any location depending on the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s different CO2 emitting sources. For example, vehicles reject approximately 20 per cent of their exhaust in CO2. Imagine the CO2 quantity rejected during rush hour in the cities, and this is without taking in consideration the CO2 rejected from factories. We can also think about those wood, fuel oil and gas heating

systems. Depending on the time of the day, the outdoor real CO2 concentration in the air is between 350 and many thousands ppm. We also have to consider that in cold weather, the difference between the outdoor temperature and the gardenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s temperature will falsify the calibration as the electronic circuit operates in different conditions. So it is better to avoid this method. With all aspects we just covered, you are now well informed on the need for precise climate factor readings in indoor gardening and the importance of calibration to get them right. And once your controller is well calibrated, it is still necessary to know your plantsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs in order to properly program it for maximum yields. MY For additional information on climate controllers, visit the article archives on www.maximumyield.com

GREEN THUMB

gardening

Organic Chemical-Free Gardening Every year, thousands of chemicals are poured into the environment and millions of gallons of water are needlessly wasted. How? By growing plants. Sure, most of this is done by large agricultural producers, but some of it occurs in personalsized gardens. And that means that you can make a difference by changing your gardening practices. There are many agricultural producers who have done it, and you can use the same tricks to help your own garden, and the planet.

Pick appropriate plants. Not all plants are appropriate for the area you live in. While you might be able to control the temperature, humidity and rain conditions inside your house, you can’t do so in an outdoor garden. If you pick appropriate plants for your area, you may be able to avoid using fertilizers and save on water too. Research what plants are native to your surrounding area and try planting them in your own garden. Wildflowers are just that; they can be left alone and will thrive in most areas. Pick natural repelling plants. You don’t need to rely on poisons to keep away garden-ruining pests. Many plants produce chemicals that repel these animals naturally. By putting them in or around you garden, you can keep your garden safe with little effort and no chemicals. Plus, you can pick parts of these plants and use them to make products to keep them away from you too. If you don’t want to plant natural repellents in your garden, you can use them to spray your plants without harming them or adding artificial chemicals to your garden. Many herbs like hot peppers, vanilla and lavender can help repel insects from your garden.

to do it properly so you don’t spread the seeds around. There are even some common weeds that are edible, just make sure there are no pesticides that could have gotten on them. Indoors the same advice applies; keep things clean and clear of debris, fallen leaves, etc. Crop rotation. Farmers all over the world use crop rotation to naturally fertilize plants. The concept is to change what crop you’re putting in a certain field each year. Plants use different nutrients and return other nutrients back into the soil. If you rotate crops that replace the nutrients the other plants use, you will have to fertilize the soil less often. You can use this same concept in your garden by planting different plants every year, or just rotating where you put specific plants in the garden. Moving Forward. So, you’ve made all these changes and are

Pull weeds. We’re all looking for a quick and easy way to

safely get rid of weeds without chemicals, but the good old fashioned way is still very effective. It you take time every day to pull the weeds you can find, it will only take a few minutes of your time. You can even get the kids involved, just be sure 94

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using a low-water, chemical free garden? Well, you still haven’t done the most important thing: pass it on! One garden can make a dent, but more can make a bigger difference. Tell your friends, teach your kids, you can even visit their school and teach your MY kids’ friends! Every little bit helps make a better world.

by Andrew Taylor: Chemist of Flairform

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration It is important to control the concentration of your nutrients. Burning of roots or foliage can occur if the level is too high. If the concentration is too low then deficiency symptoms will occur. The concentration of nutrients and additives is usually set by the manufacturer, which is stated as the volumetric dose rate, for example, four to five teaspoons per gallon (figure one). However, for the main inorganic nutrient, conductivity (EC) meter* is a helpful dosing aid. *Also includes CF and TDS meters Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com

Add nutrient to reservoir at the following rates: Hydroponics e.g. NFT, Rockwool, clay, perlite 4 - 5 tsp/gal. Target EC 1.6-2.3mS. Figure one: Nutrient labels often list dosage rates in terms of both volume and EC.

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Figure two: Stir nutrient tank well before sampling. Then leave the electrode in the sample for a few minutes before switching the meter on and taking the measurement.

Uses of EC meters 1. EC meters gauge the total concentration of salts in the nutrient solution. Hence they are useful for setting the target EC (table one) when a nutrient batch is first made (see step four below).

Note: EC meters will not detect organics such as vitamins, hormones, etc.

2. EC meters are also useful for maintaining the target EC as nutrient and water is consumed in re-circulating systems. However, because both good and bad salts are included in the reading, re-circulating nutrients must be frequently dumped because of the likelihood of toxic levels of bad salts like chloride present, and an imbalance of good salts. Units EC measurements are typically stated as mS (CF and ppm are common, but unequal alternatives). For example, distilled water and organics have an EC of zero mS. Mature flowering plants, however, typically require a nutrient solution EC of around two mS.

1 2

3 4

Obtaining conductivity readings Step 1. Make sure the meter is calibrated. Step 2. Remove a ‘representative’ sample from the nutrient reservoir: + For re-circulating systems ensure the reservoir is always filled to the same volume. If the reservoir is only half full, the conductivity reading will be twice as high as what it would be when full. + Stir the nutrient thoroughly prior to sampling. + Ensure the sampling container is clean. Step 3. Rinse electrode in distilled water before immersing in the sample. Wait a few minutes* before switching the meter on and recording the EC (figure two). * Wait longer if the sample’s temperature is significantly different from 77oF. Step 4. + If the EC is below target, add nutrient to the water until correct (to calculate this refer to table two). When making a new batch of nutrient, use the label’s volumetric dose rate as a guide.

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration

CONDUCTIVITY STANDARD For Calibrating of Conductivity (EC) and TDS Meters o

Calibrates to cF27.6 at 77 F Contains Potassium Chloride Based on international (APHA) standard formula

Figure three: When calibrating meters ensure to use a conductivity standard that is based on international standards.

+ If the EC target is exceeded then add more water (“top-up” water). To calculate this, refer to table three. Refer to table one ‘a’ for commonly recommended EC levels for the main stages of growth. These levels are suitable for the majority of plant types (for specific plants see table one ‘b’). Within certain limits, there is no need to be precise with EC levels because plants will generally only consume what they need. Most species will tolerate being above or below the recommended value by at least 10 to 20 per cent.

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Step 5. When complete, rinse electrode with distilled water. Store the electrode in distilled water when not in use. Calibrating EC meters Unless an EC meter is calibrated, you cannot confidently use EC recommendations like those supplied on many nutrient products. Calibrating cross-checks the meter’s accuracy against a solution of known conductivity called a “conductivity standard” (figure three).

Using Conductivity to Control Nutrient Concentration

All purpose cleaner for pH and conductivity meter electrodes

For removing inorganic and organic contamination Restores electrode accuracy and response time Helps maximize electrode life-span

Purchasing a conductivity meter The following specifications are important considerations: + Ability to produce readings in Siemens (e.g. “mS”) or CF. Avoid meters that will only yield TDS (ppm). + Calibration facility: Helps ensure accuracy even when electrodes are not performing to original specifications due to electrode contamination, physical damage, etc. + Housing that is both waterproof and floats – helps protect against accidents/mishandling. + Temperature compensation: A built-in temperature sensor allows the meter to adjust readings to display what it would be if the temperature was at 77oF. + Long battery life with auto-off feature to prolong battery life. MY

Figure five: Storing the electrode in distilled water will help prevent salt build up.

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Figure seven: Popular styles of conductivity meters: Availability ranges from the more expensive laboratory grade (left), to the inexpensive pocket sized (right).

Looking to read more of Andrew Taylor's articles? Visit our author archive on www.maximumyield.com

Maintaining EC electrodes Cleaning conductivity electrodes: Conductivity meter electrodes normally become coated with impurities. The degree to which this occurs will depend upon the nature of the samples being tested, and whether or not the electrode is rinsed with distilled water and properly stored after each use (figure four and five).

Figure four: To help ensure ongoing accuracy clean the electrode with distilled water after use.

Figure six: Ensure to use an electrode cleaner that can remove both inorganic and 'organic' contamination. Most cleaners will only remove 'inorganics'.

Electrode contamination causes a loss in sensitivity and, therefore, accuracy. Regular cleaning will maximize electrode performance and ensure a longer working life. Note that when testing nutrient solutions, both organic and inorganic contaminations tend to co-occur. It is therefore important to use an all-purpose cleaner (figure six). Be aware that most cleaners usually only remove inorganic contaminants, like salts. Storing conductivity electrodes: Store the electrode in distilled water when not in use (figure five). This will help prevent salt build-up which tends to encrust the electrode if left to dry out.

ELECTRODE CLEANER

Step 2. Remove electrode from conductivity standard and rinse with distilled water. The meter is now ready to be used.

"Regular cleaning will maximize electrode performance and ensure a longer working life."

To calibrate, either refer to your meter's instructions, or do the following: Step 1. Rinse electrode in distilled water then gently wipe with a tissue to remove excess water. Immerse electrode in 2.76 mS/cm (CF 27.6) Conductivity standard* for five minutes, then calibrate the meter so that it reads the following: + For conductivity meters - calibrate to 2.76 mS/cm or CF 27.6. + For TDS meters - calibrate to 1800 ppm (or as directed). *Note: To prevent contamination of the stock solution, decant a portion into a smaller container and discard once used.

Complete Nutrition part i

by Evan Folds 102

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In truth, all except the fortunate live a filtered existence. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t drink rain water or â&#x20AC;&#x153;drinking waterâ&#x20AC;? from the tap; we depend on artificial devices of unimaginable complexity to remember things for us and organize our lives; we trick ourselves into believing that most of our supermarkets are actually selling food; we subsidize large farms rather than small farms and structure farm policy around protecting their bad habits; we feed living plants lifeless food; we are taught to rely on potentially toxic pharmaceuticals rather than change our diets; and the list goes on. We filter and manipulate nature in order to make it more convenient for ourselves, but we disrupt the magic and hinder our potential.

Pure food = pure thoughts "Our inattention to the repercussions of our imbalance in earth has created a world of depleted soil and empty food." Rather than harnessing the alchemy of nature for human benefit, we make our limited minds up into conclusion and operate in an anthropocentric fashion that literally creates the problems that we have no ability to explain. Our inattention to the repercussions of our imbalance in earth has created a world of depleted soil and empty food, and it is this food that fertilizes our minds. Pure food = pure thoughts. In other words, by growing cheap food we are not allowing ourselves to see the insanity of what has become a vicious cycle. If we had not abused ourselves and the earth for the last 100 years via industrialization, the concepts of biodynamic farming or juicing wheatgrass for health would not be as relevant as they are in today’s world. In 1924 Rudolph Steiner was asked to give the lectures that birthed biodynamic agriculture by farmers experiencing the degradation of the farm from synthetic agriculture. It is extremely Rudolph Steiner important to recognize that he offered his wisdom as a response to a loss, not as a mere alternative. Farmers who experienced a living farm before industrialization could immediately recognize the degeneration on their farms, but those farmers who began their trade after industrialization and the dawn of artificial agriculture take this vitality and life force for granted in the same way that people act surprised when they taste a biodynamic tomato that does not taste like cardboard. When wheat and barley protein concentrations declined by 30 to 50 per cent between the years 1938 and 1990 the need for implementation of such a response could not be more evident. So when people look at you funny and ask why you are burying cow horns and stuffing deer bladders to create the BD preps, you tell them we’re playing catch up! For more information, read Steiner’s lectures introducing biodynamics in the Agriculture Course, available from industry wholesalers. The goal of food production should be producing the most nutrient dense crops possible. We should base our markets on mineral and enzyme density, rather than shelf life and volume. We should call this focus the FOOD MOVEMENT and pay attention to the health factor of the food produced rather than defining the method of its growth. But it’s easy to live in the conditional tense and the reality is that we are fighting an uphill battle. Market standards are driven by people’s attention spans, so we must continue to fertilize as many minds as possible to wake people up to the truly amazing weapons we have at our fingertips. We can fight the very MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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Complete Nutrition

"The US spends more on health care than any other country, actually more than most other nations combined." problems that manifest as disease and result in the wealthiest nation on earth being relatively the most sick. A recent study tells us that over 30,000 babies die from premature births in America at a rate three times higher than that of Singapore every year, which amounts to the 30th overall in the world and below almost every other industrialized nation. The scary part is that “experts” can find no smoking gun; they have no idea why these deaths are occurring or why the incidences of premature births are so

I N D O O R

high. The US spends more on health care than any other country, actually more than most other nations combined, but all we need to do is grow better food. It’s that simple, especially when you analyze the differences in food policy in the US relative to the rest of the world. The USDA organic standards have been watered down to meet the demands of industrialized agriculture and no longer represent the intentions of the origins of the “organic movement.” “Organic” certification has become a new way for large companies to make more money. Examine the flow charts on this link for more information: http://www.edenfoods.com/articles/view. php?articles_id=109. It is stated explicitly on the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) website that “organic” does not mandate healthy food, only how it is grown. What this means is that one can grow “organic” food and still produce inferior produce. According to many polls taken, this comes as a surprise to the majority of the public who tend to

purchase organic food, not only because it does not include pesticides/ herbicides, etc., but because it is supposed to be healthier. We continuously program ourselves into ignorance, rather than express our buying power and intelligence to reinforce our collective ideals. Not only this, but organic standards actually pigeonhole food production by preventing the organic certification of traditional synthetic fertilizers in hydroponics. While the rational can be understood, the fact that most hydroponic growers separate the artificial nature of their product from the environment, recirculate nutrient

solutions and actually create higher yields while consuming fewer resources is completely ignored. So is the fact that hydroponics can produce equivalent, if not superior, foodstuff relative to traditional field-based growing. We diluted the ideal rather than taking rational and thoughtful steps; we threw the baby out with the bath water.

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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Complete Nutrition in any way superior to the empty food we are producing synthetically in field’s means that farmers are not willing to make the investment and take the leap in converting their means of production. Real progress will only come when we make the collective connection that our goal is healthy food, not how it is grown.

"It is our buying power, and our buying power alone, that will transform our food production mechanisms for the better." "95 per cent of the food grown in America is grown artificially in fields where the synthetic fertilizers we use wreak havoc on the local ecosystem." It is arguable whether you can ever create healthier, more nutrient dense food than what is grown in the earth under the sun, but we must make the connection that 95 per cent of the food grown in America is grown artificially in fields where the synthetic fertilizers we use wreak havoc on the local ecosystem. The artificial nature of these materials when involved in a dynamic ecosystem not only force-

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feeds plants and discourages the natural symbiosis, but it kills the life in the soil outright, leaving plants alone to fend for themselves and literally creates all of the problems that we feel obligated to attack with dangerous poisons. In other words, it’s not the synthetic fertilizers that are the problem, but using them in the wrong place. We are actually working to create the problems that we are trying to kill and that are literally killing us. Because of this situation, hydroponics is perfectly positioned to augment this wanton neglect of consciousness, but is generally ignored as a mainstream way of producing food. Further, the fact that our certification programs do not allow the market to recognize hydroponics

There was a scene in the new movie Food Inc. that is particularly relevant. Representatives from Wal-Mart were being interviewed about their foray into selling “organic” food. Not surprisingly most of the crowd jeered at their appearance, but what they had to say hit the nail on the head. They described that their business was driven by demand and that they are in the business of providing what people ask for. However, they don’t listen to people’s voices, but their pocket books. It is our buying power, and our buying power alone, that will transform our food production mechanisms for the better. If we expect the world to provide us with what we want without providing an incentive for it to do so, we’re going to end up empty handed.

Complete Nutrition

Biodynamics has been proven via conventional data (and many subjective experiences) to contain a greater nutrient density relative to conventional or organic farming practices, but maybe one in 1000 people recognize it as a deliberate means of producing superior food. One of the easiest ways into this understanding is by recognizing that vineyards are actively converting to biodynamic

practice. There is no crop in the world that is more closely scrutinized than in viticulture and producing wine. The grapes must be inspected for their sugar content and harvested at the perfect time in accordance with the natural life cycle of the grape. The fact that you can see biodynamic wine being reviewed in mainstream publications such as TIME magazine is an indication that farmers see real benefit in implementing biodynamic practices on their farms. After all, biodynamics is no walk in the park. The effort and intention involved in its practice are not for the light at heart,

being an extremely involved process that involves tremendous dedication. However, the result of this process and the benefits of biodynamic products can be enjoyed by us all, as true biodynamic offerings are now available from industry stores. Ask for them by name at your favorite grow shop. The real magic in biodynamic agriculture involves the perspective of the earth or the grow room or the farm as an organism and the utilization of specifically potentized plants and herbs to communicate the force structure necessary to increase the life force in living systems. This activity is undertaken so that the earth may be healed and in order to create living solutions to artificial problems. It appreciates the biologically dynamic situation, rather than the tunnel vision of “primary nutrients” practiced by most hydroponic growers, the USDA and conventional farmers or the materialism that has been adopted by “organic” farmers. However, biodynamics alone is not the answer; it must be coupled with a perspective from the individual that truly articulates the desires of the whole, rather than the convenience of the lowest common denominator. We must be cognizant to provide the proper tools for the plants and organisms that we intend to grow in order for them to reach their desired maturity and, in turn, provide us with the life force necessary to allow us to carry our will into action. Call this complete nutrition, for lack of a better word, as opposed to the complete nutrition we discuss in the hydroponic world. Next time we will discuss specific ways to work within the idea of complete nutrition and the repercussions for our success in growing plants and our health, so stay tuned! MY

Visit www.maximumyield.com for a review of the movie Food Inc. and sign the Hungry for Change petition supporting healthy food choices in schools.

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Water Chillers Explained

by Stephen Keen with Pat King

"Anything that creates heat can be cooled by water one way or another."

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What is a chiller and why would I want one? Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s start with chiller basics - what is a water chiller and why would a person want one? A water chiller does just what its name implies - it cools water. Chillers are used in indoor gardening for a wide range of applications including nutrient cooling and watercooled equipment such as CO2 generators, dehumidifiers, air conditioning and even lighting. Basically anything that creates heat can be cooled by water one way or another. Given the efficiency of a chiller versus the efficiency of other common cooling methods, and the added control over garden temperatures (and therefore happier plants) that water-cooling affords, using water to cool makes more financial sense in the long run. It does, however, cost a little more up front and it is a little more difficult to set up than traditional cooling methods. I compare it to installing radiant barrier on attic roofs or buying Energy Star appliances for your home - in most cases, well worth the investment.

How does a chiller work? The cooling function of a chiller is very similar to that of an air conditioner. The energy savings comes in the form of the superior efficiency of the heat exchange of water versus air. Most chillers use electricity to power a thermostat-controlled compressor that forces refrigerant inside through a cycle. The refrigerant starts as a hot compressed gas being pumped to the condenser from the compressor. In the condenser the compressed gas begins to condense to liquid as the heat is removed by a fan. Most of the heat being absorbed by the refrigerant is removed at this point and blown out of the chillers. The cooled liquid leaves the condenser and enters either an expansion valve or capillaries to control

the amount of refrigerant entering the evaporator. As the refrigerant enters the evaporator it starts to absorb heat and boils off, becoming a vapor. Water is pumped through or across the evaporator and the "Installing a water chiller is heat is absorbed from the water by equivalent to buying Energy the refrigerant. The refrigerant is Star appliances - well worth again sucked in to the compressor, the investment." compressed into a hot gas and sent to the condenser to start the cycle over. Some chillers also come with an option to run the cycle backwards. This results in the water being warmed instead of chilled and cool air instead of warm blowing out the back of the chiller.

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Chill Out: Water Chillers Explained "The primary reason for the superior efficiency of a chiller over an air conditioner is that the thermal conductivity of water is 23 times greater than that of air."

Why is a chiller more efficient than an air conditioner? The primary reason for the superior efficiency of a chiller over an air conditioner despite their use of the same internal components is that the thermal conductivity of water is 23 times greater than that of air. What that means is a chiller will exchange the heat in a given space much more quickly than an air conditioner, allowing it to run less to get the same results. This is where you save electricity. With an air conditioner, air is passed over the evaporator instead of water. Since the air is less conductive, the evaporator canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t draw out as much heat as it can with water. The chiller evaporator is significantly smaller than an air evaporator because

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of the increased thermal load of water. In nearly all cases the evaporator in a chiller will be significantly more efficient than that of an air conditioner, again allowing it to run less to get the same amount of cooling. Outdoor chillers used in conjunction with indoor watercooled air handlers can supply traditional style air conditioning - the difference is that there is water passed between them instead of refrigerant. This type of set-up can be installed by anyone as no refrigeration license would need to be installed. Water lines can run hundreds of feet to a water-cooled evaporator. A/C ducting cannot run for significant lengths as the airflow decreases dramatically with distance. Water is currently used in most large public buildings for heating and cooling, both due to its superior efficiency and because it affords the ability to use one cooling unit for a very large area, whereas several air conditioning units would be required due to the distance constraints involved with ducting. Types of chillers: All chillers are not the same! Just like air conditioners, there are several different chiller designs and types available and your

needs should be carefully considered before a purchase is made. If your application calls for a heavy duty chiller, you will not get the results you need from a chiller intended only for nutrient cooling. Further, actual cooling output varies from brand to brand even on chillers with the same size compressor, so do your research before you buy. In our market, there are a lot to choose from, but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve broken them down into three main categories: Aquarium/Reservoir chillers: Aquarium/Reservoir chillers: These chillers are very affordable, "When used under the light loading for which theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re intended, these chillers extremely common and are are affordable and readily available." made to hold a body of water at a specific temperature against the ambient temperatures only. They are not made to carry a load. These chillers are only to be used for light duty cooling and can only be used indoors, so they are designed to run quietly as well. They cannot handle a direct or significant heat load. I compare them to refrigerators, as long as the door is closed and there is no heat being introduced, the refrigerator does exactly what you require of it, but you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t put a constant heat source inside and expect it to stay cold. This goes for the aquarium/reservoir chillers as well. Mostly this is a result of smaller condensers and fans, necessary to suppress noise and maintain a small cabinet size. When used

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Chill Out: Water Chillers Explained under the light loading for which they’re intended, these chillers are affordable and readily available with several different brands to choose from. Equipment chillers: These are usually more expensive than the variety mentioned above but are more rugged and are made to directly counteract a heat source. These chillers can handle constant loads and most can be placed outside if desired. These chillers are usually more energy efficient and will last longer under harsh conditions. Some of these are better than others, and they can range from 80 to 100 per cent load capacity. This means that with a 12,000 BTU compressor for example, some will give you 12,000 BTU of cooling and some will only get you 9600 BTU. The higher output chillers are usually a bit more expensive, but since they are more energy efficient, they will run less often, cost less to operate and last longer than the chillers with lower output, as you get more cooling out of the same power consumption.

and longest lasting chillers you can buy. Some units come with built-in pumps and reservoirs so you simply attach your plumbing to the water outlets, add water, turn them on and set your water temperature. The commercial size chillers can only be placed outdoors (they are too large and remove too much heat to be placed indoors) and most can be roofmounted if needed.

Commercial chillers: These chillers are the most expensive available, but are also the highest quality

How to properly size a chiller: Properly sizing your chiller is vital! Heating and cooling are both measured

"Some units come with built-in pumps and reservoirs so you simply attach your plumbing to the water outlets, add water, turn them on and set your water temperature."

in BTU and if the BTU loading is higher than the BTU output of the chiller, the chiller will run constantly and will never or rarely get your body of water to your desired temperature.You will need to closely estimate how much heat is being produced by the equipment that you’re trying to cool to know how much cooling you need.You must also consider ambient temperatures, how well the room is insulated, if there is any venting to the outside and the cubic footage of the area that you’re cooling. "A properly sized larger chiller will use less power than a smaller chiller because it runs less often and requires less effort from the compressor."

In general, 1000 watt bulbs produce 3500 BTU and 1000 watt digital ballasts produce 2500 BTU of heat. (Every light and ballast is different so these are generalizations). So if you were looking to cool a room with 4000 watts and with the ballasts in the garden, you would need a chiller with at least 24,000 BTU to counteract the heat generated by the lights and ballasts alone.You’d need to add BTUs to the chiller if you wanted to add water-cooled air conditioning or if you wanted to use any other water-cooled equipment such as CO2 generators. If I can offer one piece of advice that you’ll thank me for later, it would be to always size your chiller 20 per cent larger than 114

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you think you need. A properly sized larger chiller will use less power than a smaller chiller because it runs less often and requires less effort from the compressor. A larger chiller will last longer and offers you the ability to expand your set-up later. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve found that many people add lights to their garden after they switch to water-cooling because they have freed up some electricity and have more control over their garden temperatures. Where should I put it? For a chiller to operate at maximum efficiency, it must have a constant supply of fresh air. It is a mechanical heat exchanger and cannot exchange heat efficiently if it is in a closed room or in a hot attic. To take maximum advantage of its energy efficiency, the chiller should be placed outdoors if possible, even if it is hot outdoors. If you leave it in the house, even in a different room, your home air conditioner is cooling the heat from the back of the chiller, which is really just the heat from your garden, so it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t providing nearly as much energy-savings as it does if you put it outside. In short, water cooling has been used for decades, mainly in commercial and industrial applications. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already been proven in these other applications that water chillers can be extremely energy friendly additions to the indoor garden! The energy savings that can be afforded by using water to cool

your equipment and environment often allows gardeners to add more lights to their space because they have more control over their temperatures and smaller electric bills. This results in larger yields with little or no increase in power consumption, and happier plants in a more consistent environment. When the correct chiller, for the correct application, properly sized, is used in the indoor garden, the benefits of more control and less energy use will nearly always offset the upfront expense. MY

All of Stephen`s articles are available exclusively on www.maximumyield.com

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sun and soil: Natural Greenhouse growing Life in the Winter Soil by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea

"If we could look deeper, observe the rich interconnectedness of the soil web, we would see that while the garden sleeps, the soil dreams of spring." 116

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The garden hibernates. Dried stalks and leafless shrubs stand out against a light dusting of snow. Nature and the gardener draw a breath after summer’s frantic rush and fall’s rich harvest. Beneath the snow, the soil lies frozen in a rock-like crust. At first glance, it seems lifeless and barren. If we could look deeper, observe the rich interconnectedness of the soil web, we would see that while the garden sleeps, the soil dreams of spring. When we have completed our work as gardeners, replenished and protected the powerhouse of soil life, millions of organisms are eager to provide a surge of growth as weather warms. Knowing what happens deep in the winter soil helps us understand why our fall gardening practices are so essential. In this article, I can only lightly touch on the vast complexity of the soil food web. I will pass over all the protozoan species, the nematodes (good and bad), and the vast range of insects and arthropods. My focus is just a sample of micro-organisms and worms – the smallest and largest inhabitants of the soil.

"With decreased warmth and nutrients, decomposition of organic matter slows as microbes settle toward a quiescent state."

Bacteria and Archaea Soil microbes, like all living organisms, need food and energy. In winter, as the sun’s warmth declines, these are at a premium. Annual plants die after setting seed, while perennials reduce growth and consolidate sugars in their roots; less plant sap is available to feed carbohydrate-loving microbes. With decreased warmth and nutrients, decomposition of organic matter slows as microbes settle toward a quiescent state. Because of their simple structure, many types of bacteria can freeze without harm. Unlike more complicated organisms, bacteria have membranes that do not burst when their internal fluids turn to ice. With soil rich in humus, bacteria can hibernate through the cold weather well protected within their carbon habitats. Soil that drains well and has humus content around 10 per cent is an ideal environment for over-wintering microbes. Some microbes are even hardier and more primitive than bacteria. These are the archaea, a relatively recent discovery in soil biology. Archaea micro-organisms are possibly the most ancient living things and have been found in every known environment from Yellowstone’s hot springs to ice floes in the Arctic. Because they can live and reproduce in extraordinarily harsh ecologies, they are often called extrememophiles – lovers of the extreme.

While only a few hundred types have been studied, it is probable that thousands of archaea species live in the soil. Until recently, it was thought that only certain bacteria were specialized to convert ammonia into nitrate, a process called nitrification, essential for plant nutrition. Scientists have found that Crenarchaeota archaea are by far the most dominant ammonia oxidizers - up to 3,000 times more abundant than bacteria. Archaea, with their extraordinarily simple cells, are still working at temperatures near 32°F when other microbes are fast asleep. To promote soil life during fall and winter, I lay down compost, plant cover crops (see Cover Crops, Sept. 09 USA) and make sure to feed the soil with a deep application of compost tea. Cereal crops such as rye, winter wheat and triticale protect the soil from leaching of minerals and also help stabilize soil carbon, essential for microbes. Compost tea, with its diverse microbial population, supercharges the soil and roots with microbial life. Research shows that the population of microbes around cereal roots can actually grow during winter, generating organic nutrients ready for spring. Soil Fungi and Mycorrhizae Many species of soil fungi do not actively survive the winter; instead they set spores. As soon as soil temperature rises, those spores begin to sprout, sending out masses of thread-like hyphae, connecting to their preferred nutrient sources. Most fungi MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Life in the Winter Soil

"Fall digging disrupts the network of are beneficial to the soil food web, beneficial fungal breaking down cellulose to produce hyphae, particularly plant nutrients and humus. Others can those belonging to mycorrhizae." be noxious pests, colonizing mulch, depleting nutrients and attacking plants. Fungal spores causing rusts, blights, wilting, molds, damping off and root rot are everywhere, floating in the air and settling in the soil. Many gardening experts suggest that the ground be rough dug in fall and weathered during winter to help rid the soil of unwanted fungi and insects. However, this is a two-edged sword. Fall digging disrupts the network of beneficial fungal hyphae, particularly those belonging to mycorrhizae. Mycorrhizae have been shown to not only strengthen plant development, but also help prevent infestation by noxious fungi. Both spores and hyphae of mycorrhizae withstand winter temperatures and, if left undisturbed, can quickly colonize plant roots in the spring. Another beneficial fungi, trichoderma, actively attack destructive fungi in the soil and on plant surfaces. It even prevents snow molds that form on lawns under snow. Healthy winter soil, full of beneficial fungal micro-organisms, defends tender spring seedlings from attack and gives a boost to early growth. Again, planting a cover crop is an effective way to strengthen populations of beneficial fungi. Trichoderma and mycorrhizae are found in large numbers in the soil after the cultivation of winter cereals. To support the growth of these beneficials, I add a root innoculant containing 21 species of mycorrhizae and trichoderma to my final application of compost tea. I seldom have problems with disease in the greenhouse. "It is often I believe that a soil well stocked with good important to fungi has enormous value in protecting avoid watering plants from attacks of all kinds. mulches to

reduce molds and noxious fungi."

Worms Of all the myriad members of the soil food web, worms have the most interesting winter survival strategies. Before the soil freezes, common earthworms burrow down into 118

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the subsoil, below the frost line - as much as six feet deep. There they form a slime-coated ball and hibernate in a state called estivation. Because they are wrapped in mucous, they can survive for long periods without moisture until spring rains wake them from their slumber. Not all kinds of earthworms make the downward journey. Some lay eggs in cocoons safe in the soil, ready to hatch when conditions are right. Then they settle under leaf litter on top of the soil, where they freeze and die. A type of Northern worm, S. niveus, has developed an extraordinary method of making it through the winter. S. niveus worms can manufacture glycerol as a kind of antifreeze in their internal fluids. This allows them to super cool their bodies to 5째F and survive even the harshest cold. In my greenhouses, I find that many worms avoid hibernating by finding unfrozen strata of soil - perhaps under a barrel of water that serves as thermal mass, or beneath a plastic bag filled with leaves. Lifting some insulating object, I often find a wriggling mass of worms when I least expect them. Organic mulching (see Maxi Mulch, Dec. 08 USA) is my preferred way of protecting all the life in the soil, including worms. Deep mulch reduces fluctuations of soil temperature that cause problems for soil life and over-wintering plants. It also decreases the amount of freezing in the soil and conserves soil moisture. Soil life needs less water in winter than in summer, only about 15 per cent, so watering is needed only during warm dry periods. In fact, it is often important to avoid watering mulches to reduce molds and noxious fungi. In moist warm climates, artillery fungus and molds colonize mulch, so only materials that have been hot-composted should be used. In dry climates, such as mine, raw materials - leaves, hay or straw - work well as long as they are kept fairly loose and uncompacted. I like to fluff up the mulch once or twice during the winter to keep it mold free. Plenty of compost, a smattering of cover crops, a dose of compost tea and a deep covering of mulch will keep all those wonderful organisms in the soil snug and healthy. With all that life poised to spring into action, you can be sure your next growing season will exceed all your expectations. MY To access each article from the Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Column, visit www.maximumyield.com

Sustainability: Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda? by Matt Geschke

"Sustainability is not a singular idea but a complex paradigm that many previous civilizations employed." One of the most impassioned topics currently discussed in the mainstream media is that of sustainability. It would appear that this concept is new and novel due to the intense interest it has garnered by all engaged in the dialogue. However, it may be surprising to some that the fundamental practices are centuries old. I have lectured on this topic for nearly 10 years and have distilled down a definition that I feel is broad enough to encompass the concepts covered in this article while allowing the reader to interpret and subsequently tailor the message to his or her 120

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Incan circular terrace near Moray, Peru.

life. Sustainability as I have come to understand it is the act of producing all of the necessities for life in a manner that does not degrade the quantity or quality of resources for future generations. This is not to say the aforementioned resources cannot be amended or modified but their quality and quantity must not be degraded. This may appear to be a tall order for many of us who have been raised in a “single use” society. The notion of “no net loss” requires a dramatic change in our behavior as well as a nearly wholesale replacement of the traditional agriculture model.

For us to truly understand and ultimately discuss sustainability with a level of competence it is important to understand its genesis and its consequent evolution throughout history. What makes the concept of sustainability unique is that it is actually a myriad of symbiotic, yet often disparate, applied concepts, anchored to a very specific set of beliefs. Therefore, it is not a singular idea but a complex paradigm that many previous civilizations employed; and through its implementation they enjoyed great wealth and prosperity. By using sustainable practices the Incas and the Aztecs were able to support populations that many estimate were in the millions. Imagine the food security burden associated with a population of that magnitude and then factor into the equation that these civilizations lived at altitudes with very little precipitation, long before the industrial revolution. Accomplishing these feats of agricultural sustainability was nothing short of miraculous.

"Mesoamerican inhabitants developed more than half the agricultural products that the world eats today." How were these civilizations able to conquer this apparently insurmountable task? The answer is relatively simple; through sustainable agriculture. Mesoamerican inhabitants developed more than half the agricultural products that the world eats today. Among these are more than 200+ varieties of potato; 20+ varieties of corn; as well as varieties of beans, peppers, squash, quinoa and amaranth. The Incan culture is responsible for developing agricultural techniques and methods so effective that many of them are still in use today. Arguably the most recognizable Incan method used in their sustainable model was the construction of andene terracing. These terraces were often constructed in a circular fashion and employed regional topography to their advantage as they were built on natural slopes. This design allowed the passive force of gravity to irrigate their crops without the use of mechanical pumps. The faces of the slopes were waterproofed by tiling the surface with a mosaic of flat impervious rocks. Upon this stone foundation, walls and terraces were constructed with multiple water inlets along the top and several drainage channels at the bottoms. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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Sustainability: Buzz Word or Legitimate Agenda?

"Many of us involved in this industry design our products to excel in controlled environments and as a result humidity is one of the most critical factors that we address."

Pisac, Peruvian terraces in the Sacred Valley.

These voids were filled with mineral rich soils and amended with nitrogen rich seabird and bat guano as well as coarse aggregate and sand at the bottom to aid in drainage. Sound familiar? The overall design combines many of the fundamental elements currently employed in contemporary hydroponic systems: The use of automated irrigation, the circular design to maximize space, upper terraces feeding lower terraces and the use of organic fertilizers and drainage amendment to maximize yield. A second lesser known Incan design was the Waru Waru; this system was constructed on high flat plateaus, where terrace construction was not possible or where direct precipitation was the only available irrigation method. Deep water ditches were excavated around the agricultural plots and were subsequently filled with rain water. These channels served as reservoirs for irrigation but they also created a humid rich microclimate due to evaporation. This is of paramount importance for one of the greatest challenges of cultivation at elevation is the lack of humidity. Many of us involved in this industry design our

"The overall design combines many of the fundamental elements currently employed in contemporary hydroponic systems."

products to excel in controlled environments and as a result humidity is one of the most critical factors that we address. Amazingly enough, the Incans were able to accomplish this task 500 years ago, at 14,000 feet of elevation, without humidifiers or fuzzy logic controllers. The Incans were also dedicated to research and development as it applied to plant morphology and genetic resistance. To this end they constructed an exceptionally large circular terrace in the Peruvian city of Cusco. Experts believe that this location is where most of the hybridizing experiments took place and as result of the massive scale of this operation, hundreds of Incan farmers were employed year round to ensure that the desired outcome was achieved. By constructing this massive terrace system the Incas were able to replicate the conditions found at various elevations and consequently develop elevation specific hybrids. By using this technique the Incas were able to develop varieties of maize and potato that grew at 14,000 feet amsl (average mean sea level) that were previously only cultivated successfully at 3,000 feet amsl. On a related note, it is evident from archaeological investigation that the Aztecs constructed massive aquaponic farms by raising fish alongside crops. They built artificial islands known as chinampas in regionally low lying areas (marshes or lakes) and planted them with a variety of regional crops. Canals were then constructed throughout this network of islands and afforded the farmers the ability to tend their crops from a canoe. Waste from the fish fell to the bottom of the canals and was collected to fertilize plants. Plants also benefited from the microclimate created by the evaporating water. It should be obvious by now from this crash course in Mesoamerican agriculture that the solution to our sustainability problem with regards to agriculture has already been defined over 500 hundred years ago. Our charge now, as members of the hydroponic community, is to take these concepts and extrapolate them into forms and techniques that are applicable to modern controlled environment agriculture. Detractors to this cause cite that the current sustainable practices are not

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"Current sustainable practices are not viable when expanded to the magnitude necessary to provide the quantity and quality of food needed to sustain the global population."

Unfortunately, it is this short sighted, margin-based approach to technological development that has placed us at the precipice. Many experts believe that without a means of sustainable agriculture we will exceed our planetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carrying capacity by 2050. These are dire times and we must adopt a sense of urgency. We have an opportunity to make a difference and we must embrace it. Instead of accepting the broken and inefficient technologies we are given with a willing look and open hands, we must demand that the industry designs future products with sustainability in mind. It all starts with the growers; we are the inventors, we are the solution and we can drive this agenda, but we must remain steadfast in our resolve. We must commit to products that can be recycled or used as fuel for another process. We must abandon technologies that are inefficient to ship and manufactured thousands of miles away. "We are the We must train a critical eye on those who supply inventors, we are the our nutrients. Are they mining these constituents solution and we can in an environmentally sound fashion or are they drive this agenda." buying low and selling high with no regard to impact they cause? We must be judicious in our approach to irrigation; drain-to-waste must be reevaluated and new re-circulating designs must be developed. Finally, our current lighting options must be reexamined and revamped viable when expanded to the magnitude necessary to provide the quantity and quality of food needed to sustain the global with not just lumen intensity and wattage in mind but with energy efficiency (watt to usable lumen ratio), functional life population. Ironically, I agree with this assessment, however, I span and recyclability calculated into the equation. In the end am not deterred but inspired. As a global community we have this is our responsibility and our planet; we can accept what the been given a once in a lifetime opportunity to mold the future talking heads tell us or we can prove them wrong. This is the through environmentally conscious food production. The event horizon! models currently employed are broken and do not incorporate MY technological advancements available in other industries. The hydroponic industry has a tendency to be a bit incestuous Access to a variety of articles on with regards to solutions to our internal problems. This is not sustainable growing can be found at www.maximumyield.com only reasonable but expected for many of the suppliers to our industry have a vested interest in their proprietary technologies.

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by Matt LeBannister

Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls Pests are often a big concern for most gardeners. Indoor gardeners find it especially frustrating to battle insects and the others pests that infiltrate their gardens. Insect and pest populations can explode in the pristine, climate-controlled environment that most indoor gardeners grow in. Also within the indoor environment there are no naturally occurring predatory insects to feed on pests and keep them in check. There are many ways to combat these garden invaders before they destroy what is precious to us. There seems to be a ton of different sprays, bombs, traps and dusts available at your local gardening center to battle destructive garden insects. Some products contain organic, synthetic or chemical pesticides that kill on contact or when ingested. Other options are naturally-derived sprays, colored sticky traps or an ever-expanding library of predatory insects that can be purchased through local gardening centers and greenhouse supply stores. With so many different types of products to treat any number of pest-related problems, it can be difficult for one to decide which product is right for the job. There really is no right or wrong choice when it comes to fighting garden pests, fungi or mildews; it is up the grower to decide what best fits their situation. With a multitude of options available, it is important to understand how they are properly applied, how they work, which pests or problems they treat and how they affect the plants as well as how they affect us. The best way to make an informed decision is through research and consistent education on the alternatives available.

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pests - fungi - m

Once insects, fungi or other pests have infiltrated the grow room, your first line of defense is usually organic pesticides, sprays or homemade recipes.

“Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, should never be used in conjunction with beneficial predator insects, because these pesticides will kill them also.″ Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, pyrethrin, cinerins and jasmolins, are a common organic contact pesticide. A contact pesticide kills pretty much every insect or bug that it is exposed to. Therefore, these types of pesticides should never be used in conjunction with beneficial predator insects, because these pesticides will kill them also. Pyrethrum-based insecticides are usually in aerosol sprays or “bug bombs.” Aerosol sprays should be applied to the plant from a distance of one to 1.5 feet from the leaves. If sprayed too close the leaves will burn, because the pressurized contents will escape at a very low temperature. The great thing about “Neem oil is extracted pyrethrum-based pesticides by pressing the seeds of is that they are non-systemic. the Indian neem tree.″ Systemic pesticides will be absorbed by the plants and cannot be used on crops intended for consumption. Pyrethrum-based pesticides break down quickly and can be used up to three days before harvest. Another very popular pest control product is neem oil. Neem oil is extracted by pressing the seeds of the Indian neem tree. The resulting oil concentrate can be purchased at quality garden stores. Neem is generally applied in a spray to the entire plant. Don’t forget to spray the underside of leaves, because many insects will hide there. The dilution rate for mixing the neem oil is one to two teaspoons per quart of water. To help the oil and water mix, try adding a couple drops of hand soap; make sure the soap is not antibacterial. When the sprayed neem oil comes in contact with the garden pests, the active ingredient, azadirachtin, confuses the insect’s growth hormones. On young garden insects or eggs this contact will cause the insect to never reach sexual maturity, meaning that no offspring will be produced. Neem

Underside of a leaf with aphids

mildews - insects

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Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls oil is effective against spidermites, aphids, scales, fungus gnats and even harms beneficial insects. Neem can also effectively remove powdery mildew and rust. Neem oil should not be used on edible plants and are going to be consumed. Neem oil is a systemic pesticide and will be absorbed directly into the plant that it is being used on. If one does intend to use neem oil on a plant that is edible, it is best to make sure that none of the neem oil comes into direct contact the with fruits or vegetables. Diatomaceous earth is an excellent organic choice for specifically removing either aphids or slugs from one’s garden. These fossilized remains of single-celled organisms known as diatoms can be dusted on plants and soil. When the diatomaceous earth comes into contact with aphids, the sharp particles will damage their waxy coating, resulting in a fatal wound. When ingested by the slugs, the sharp particles will cut their insides and cause death.

Diatomaceous earth is safe to use on all plants, edible or otherwise, although one should wear a dust mask when applying. The little particles can damage human airways and lungs if inhaled. Another pest control product is insecticidal soap. This is a relatively mild form of insecticide made from the fatty acids of plants and animals. It’s most effective against spidermites, thrips, mealy bugs, aphids and any other soft-bodied insect. The fatty acids will penetrate an insect’s membranes clogging them and killing the insect.

“Neem oil is effective against spidermites, aphids, scales, fungus gnats and even harms beneficial insects.″

Scales

Spidermite damage

Insecticidal soaps are safe to use on edible plants as they dissipate in about a day or so. They are a biodegradable and environmentally-safe product. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a common household product that can be used to treat outbreaks of powdery mildew. When applied to the leaves affected with powdery mildew, the baking soda will alter the pH levels of the leaf surface and kill the mildew as a result. Plants should be dusted or sprayed with a diluted baking soda/water solution for three days for an effective treatment. Another way to remove powdery mildew from plants is to dust them with a mixture of powdered sulfur and lime. This method is safe for people eating the fruits and vegetables, but can hurt the plant sometimes. If the temperature goes above 86°F the leaves with the sulfur/lime dust on them will burn. Plants can become severely damaged and can even die as a result. If sulfur is to be used to remove powdery mildew the room must be kept cool. 126

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Pest Control: Organics, Chemicals and Biological Controls Most homemade “There is literally a biological mixes are safe to use on predator solution for every pest fruiting and flowering problem one might encounter.″ plants and are nonsystemic. Homemade mixes should be sprayed on the underside and topside of leaves twice a week to effectively control and eliminate pest populations. To help control the adult population of winged insects, many gardeners will use colored sticky traps. These traps use cards that are either yellow or blue and are covered in very sticky glue. The insects are attracted to the color and will think that they are flying towards a flower. When the winged insects land, they are trapped to the glue on the card. With no escape, it is only a matter of time before the pests die. A pepper plant with aphids. For these sticky traps to effectively trap adult winged insects A great way to treat your garden pest problem is to use a they should be hung just above the tops of the plants. This is variety of different homemade pesticide mixes. Many recipes where most insects will fly when going from plant to plant. are available online, and most will contain Probably the best line of defense against a garden one or more of the following ingredients: “Predator bugs are harmless insect infestation is to battle them with predator to plants and humans.″ Chili powder, hot pepper sauce, garlic juices insects. Every pest naturally has another pest that and soap. The soap will clog the membranes feeds on it. For example, spidermites have predator of soft-bodied insects, while the other ingredients like garlic mites that will feed on them and aphids have aphid midges, juice and chili powder will confuse insects and make the whose larva’s saliva will paralyze them so they can cut the juices plant’s taste less desirable. out. There is literally a biological predator solution for every pest problem one might encounter. Every predator has a preferred environment it needs to thrive in. Some prefer a hot and dry environment while others prefer it to be cool and damp. The best way to know which one is right for your situation is to do some research on the topic or consult your local hydroponics shop. Using predator insects to combat a pest problem is the safest method and the most natural for controlling insects. Predator bugs are harmless to plants and humans. When using these biological controls, one should never use any other pest control such as sprays or dusts, because any other method will most likely harm the good bugs as well as the bad ones. There are so many options for removing insects from the indoor garden. There is one for every situation. Sprays, dusts, traps, homemade recipes and biological controls are all very effective, as long as the user is well-informed. Use any pesticide improperly and you and your plants can be at risk. So be smart and be safe – your plants will thank you. MY Sources: The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. Edited by Barbara W. Ellis and Fern Marshall Bradley. Rodale Press, 1996. Patten, George Van. Gardening Indoors: The Indoor Growing Bible. Van Patten Publishing, 2002.

An assortment of home-made pest spray recipes are exclusively available on www.maximumyield.com under Online Extras.

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DO YOU

know?

7 Pyrethrum and its active ingredients, pyrethrin,

cinerins and jasmolins, are a common organic contact pesticide. A contact pesticide kills pretty much every insect or bug that it is exposed to.

8 The simple act of breathing (between 30,000 to

40,000 ppm) near the controller will significantly influence the sensor.

1 Distilled water and organics have an EC of zero

milliseimens (mS). Mature flowering plants typically require a nutrient solution EC of around two mS.

2 Humidity levels can be slightly higher than average during the pre-veg state. About 60 to 70 per cent relative humidity works best.

3 Worm castings slowly release safe amounts of

nutrition to the root zone, which lowers the risk of fertilizer burn and makes the medium desirable for sensitive crops.

of their simple structure, many types of 9 Because bacteria can freeze without harm.

10Aquarium chillers are only to be used for light duty cooling and can only be used indoors.

of 600-800 parts per million of CO2 supply 11Levels enough carbon dioxide to help catalyze a high rate of bio-activity in the developing of transplants during pre-vegging.

a fertilizer produced by the action 4 Superphosphate, of concentrated sulfuric acid on powdered phosphate rock, was discovered through treating bones with sulphuric acid.

5 Most outdoor grown strawberry varieties are short

day and will initiate flowers under short day lengths (less than 14 hours).

6 Many experts believe that without a means of

sustainable agriculture we will exceed our planetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carrying capacity by 2050.

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YOU TELL US Maximum Yield discusses the “green movement,” and the benefits of bloom nutrients and enhancers with Treg Bradley, president and co-owner of Botanicare.

Treg Bradley, president and co-owner of Botanicare

MY: Botanicare is becoming more involved in the green movement. You’ve recently developed the Organicare line of nutrients and supplements. What makes Organicare products green and why are they better for the environment than standard nutrients?

Maximum Yield (MY): Botanicare has consistently been a leader in the hydrogardening industry for quite some time now. What keeps you out in front? Treg: We maintain close contact with our customers and industry professionals, which allows us to understand both the needs of growers and the direction the hydrogardening industry is moving. Our driving ambition for expanding and perfecting our product line is to improve our industry's image, and firmly establish hydrogardening as a legitimate, mainstream industry, while creating effective, reliable, innovative products. Every product we manufacture includes only premium, quality ingredients combined in small batches to ensure consistent results for every growing project, every time. 130

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Treg: The Organicare Plant Nutrient System includes fertilizers and supplements that are OMRI listed for use in organic crop production. All Organicare products are manufactured using natural and organic-based ingredients. Often, standard nutrients are applied in excess resulting in toxic runoff and soil contamination over time. When used properly, Organicare's natural and organic-based ingredients help avoid contaminating water supplies and can reverse the damage done to soils caused by standard fertilizer overuse. Organicare's Plant Nutrient System starts by replacing the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) increasing carbon that is typically depleted by standard urea-based nitrogen ingredients and the starving microbes that break down applied synthetic chemicals. The Organicare system also inoculates the soil and replenishes the natural flora and fauna that are vital to organic, “green” gardening. In as little as a week a thriving, natural, symbiotic relationship is formed. Diverse populations of microbes start breaking down organic matter and releasing stored nutrients provided by Organicare’s natural ingredients. These microbes also break down chemical residue left behind by standard fertilizers. In a short period, the Organicare Plant Nutrient System helps create a natural, instinctual, selfsustaining, growing environment.

MY: Do any of your plastics fit the “green” description? Treg: Botanicare understands and recognizes that petroleum, the building block of plastic, is non-renewable and is in limited supply. To minimize our environmental impact we form our high impact, ABS plastic trays using 100 per cent recycled material internally, which is then enclosed with a minimal virgin plastic cap to prevent UV penetration and discoloration. In addition, our plastic production facilities located in the USA have implemented practices that minimize anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions and other negative effects on our environment. MY: You’ve just added a new product, CNS17 Ripe, to the already popular CNS17 line of simple, affordable nutrients. Is this just another bloom formula? Is it a supplement or a complete nutrient? Where does it fit into the line? Treg: CNS17 Ripe is a complete bloom nutrient perfect for use with fast growing annuals. Ripe contains all of the essential macro- and micro-nutrients and can be used with or without the use of additional synthetic and/or organic supplements. Growers can create custom recipes tailored to the specific nutritional needs of each plant by combining any of the two CNS17 grow formulas and the three CNS17 bloom formulas. Are you growing lettuce in a NFT system? CNS17 Grow for Hydro is the right nutrient for you. Pumpkin patch in your backyard garden? Douse your soil with CNS17 Bloom for Coco and Soil. Have some marigolds about to bloom? Use CNS17 Ripe to push their size and brilliance to the max.

MY: Speaking of bloom formulas - you have several different bloom nutrients and enhancers, including the newly reformulated Hydroplex. How should these be used? Is one better than the other? Treg: Botanicare does offer a diverse selection of products for grower's blooming needs. We currently manufacture and distribute seven different base bloom nutrients, and now, a revamped bloom maximizing supplement, Hydroplex Bloom Maximizer. Originally available in two formulas, we have condensed the line down to one balanced formula that is effective for hydrogardens, coir fiber and soil. Hydroplex 0-10-6 Bloom Maximizer now includes a broader range of amino acids, more trace minerals and more select, beneficial vitamins. Use Hydroplex in conjunction with any base bloom nutrient to maximize the yield potential of fruiting and flowering plants. Though most standard PK boosters are structured to create larger fruits and flowers, Hydroplex Bloom Maximizer surpasses that standard by increasing a plant’s resistance to external stresses; and amplifying enzyme, chlorophyll and essential oil production. MY

If you would like to have your product featured in "You Tell Us," please contact editor@ maximumyield.com or give us a call at 250 729 2677

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PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Continued from page 38

Nature’s Solution Wormcastings Nature’s Solution Worm Castings are 99.4 per cent pure worm castings, dark brown color, not black (an indication of anaerobic conditions). The castings are from a non-manure feed stock and are screened to 1/8 inch. The worm casts are tiny balls of encapsulated organic matter containing an outstanding community of bacteria, fungi and protozoa. Nature’s Solution Worm Castings are approved for organic production, verified to USDA-NOP organic standards. For all indoor and outdoor applications on trees, grass, flowers, shrubs and vines. For hydroponics, nurseries, greenhouses and agriculture. For golf courses, homeowners and landscapers. Use 1/8 inch of castings as a top dressing for new or existing plants, for transplanting or planting new seeds. Use for indoor and outdoor container plant materials. Available now at indoor gardening retail stores.

NeemShine™ New from Hydro-Organics At last a Neem Oil Leaf Shine that easily mixes with water and covers more evenly than traditional neem oil products. HydroOrganics’ NeemShine is available in the following sizes: pints, quarts, gallons and 2.5 gallons. Ask for them with your favorite hydroponics retail store.

Plug’n’Grow’s New iGS-221 Only one controller manages all of your indoor garden’s climate parameters! • The improved iGS-220* combines precision and simplicity: • Simultaneously controls temperature, relative humidity and CO2 concentration. • Intelligently manage up to six actions: generating CO2, venting, humidifying, dehumidifying, heating and cooling. • Ready to use; no programming required, just adjust your set points! • Prioritize actions according to a logical sequence. • Avoid contradictory actions (e.g. cooling and heating). • Hassle-free three year warranty • Seven days a week of free technical support. * iGS-220 easy update also offered. Visit your local grow shop to learn more.

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Earth Juice Sugar Peak Line of Plant Foods Earth Juice Sugar Peak line of plant foods is a one part organic and mineral fusion plant feed and booster for hydroponics, coir and soil growing. The built-in convenience of a single formula is that it doesn’t require any additional supplements or additives. Sugar Peak’s liquid formulations are easily adaptable to a variety of plant requirements and growing environments and are the ideal choice for the hobbyist who demands premium results without the hassle and mess of mixing multiple formulas. For indoor/outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. The Earth Juice Sugar Peak line of plant foods includes: Leaf Growth™, Flowering™, Grand Finale™ and Briximus Maximus™. For more information on these products visit an indoor gardening retail store near you.

Introducing New Everlastics Net Pots and Lids from C.A.P. Custom Automated Products' Everlastics Net Pots provide excellent root zone aeration and drainage and are compatible with several hydroponic systems. They are available in two, three, 3.75, five and six inches. Everlastics Net Pot Lids are ideal for protecting roots from light and reducing algae growth on media. Sizes are available for all Everlastics Net Pots. Contact your local retailer for more information.

iGS-016 - Plug’n’Grow’s New Multi-Timer The iGS-016 is perfect for all types of indoor gardens, providing better control for lighting and irrigation and greater protection for plants and equipment. • Light and dark cycle from 0 to 72 hours. • No timing calculation required from the user. • Programmable repetitive cycles up to 72 hours. • Adjustable activation delay. • Automatic cooling fan activation at lamps’ ignition. • Adjustable ventilation shut off delay after lamps turn off. • Adjustable lights recovery delay when a power failure occurs (five to 30 minutes). • Automatic lamp shut-off when garden is overheated. • Lighting system failure alarm. • Dual pump strategy to activate an emergency pump in case the main one is damaged. • Pumps and lights deactivation when nutrient solution is too low. Also benefit from our hassle free three year warranty and our free technical support seven days a week. Visit your local grow shop to learn more. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Ultragrow Now Offering a Full Line of Ballasts, Fixtures and Reflectors The Ultragrow Ballast comes in 1000 and 400 watt fixtures and features a 120 or 240 volt power receptacle. The Ultragrow Air Cooled six and eight inch reflectors have super efficient cooling capabilities. A tempered glass lens is standard and the reflective insert provides excellent light distribution. The Ultragrow Lightwing Reflector is large and in charge! Made from 95 per cent reflective polished aluminum, this reflector will not rust, corrode, chip or discolor, and is built to last a lifetime.

The Ultragrow Cool Tube six and eight inch air-cooled reflector minimizes heat build-up and comes with an internal reflector. The exterior reflector wings enlarge the growing area. Tempered glass is capable of holding heat temperatures of 5000 BTUs.

The Ultragrow Parabolic vertical burning reflector is white powder-coated German featuring a leviton lamp holder. Ultragrow T5 Fluorescent Fixtures use highly efficient digital electronic ballast to power the high-output T5 lamps. The Ultragrow features a low profile and emits low heat. Available now from your local indoor gardening retail store.

Wonder Brick Lite速 Wonder Soil速 for larger planting projects in brick form that weighs a little over one pound. This expands up to 10 times the volume when water is added. It is specially formulated with fewer polymers for trafficked garden areas or larger containers. Water saving polymers reduce the need to water by up to 50 per cent. For more information visit your local grow shop. 134

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The Hammer Future Harvest’s PlantLife Products division introduces The Hammer. The Hammer stops vertical growth and makes your plants sturdy, lush and compact with strong stems and short intervals between nodes. This product is food grade approved and is safe for human consumption. Made by growers for growers. Visit your local hydroponic retailer for more information on The Hammer.

Wonder Soil® Expanding Soil Wafers A complete rich potting mix compressed into dry compact wafers. The recycled tube holds 18 - 2½ inch wafers. Each wafer will expand to fill a four to five inch pot when water is added. The wafers are composed of a special formula with water saving polymers, worm castings and organic fertilizers that feed up to four months and promote exceptional gardening results. Use year round for all containers and outdoor gardening applications. You can view the demonstration of the Expanding Soil Wafers on YouTube or for more information visit an indoor gardening retailer.

Brite-Lite launches MO’KOKO Premium Select Coco Substrate Brite-Lite Group is pleased to introduce our new line of premium, RHP certified coco substrates. MO’KOKO carries the RHP stamp, the Dutch Standard of Quality for horticulture. RHP certification guarantees that quality has been stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage, satisfying that the highest chemical and physical requirements have been met. Available in pre-washed and buffered 4.5 kilogram compressed blocks or loose and ready-to-use 10 gallon bags, homogeneous, stable, pest-free and easily recyclable. MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower. For more information contact your local indoor gardening retail store.

Shake Water and Plant® (with Worm Castings!) Smaller Wonder Soil® wafers that are specially designed for smaller pots and seed starter cells. These wafers are enriched with worm castings, and are formulated to promote faster germination, yielding up to 40 per cent more sprouts. These wafers can also be used to boost the soil of existing plants. Easy to shake into a pot or around an existing plant to top up the soil level and add needed nutrients. Saves water, space and labor while promoting better seed starting and amazing gardening results. You can view the demonstration of Shake Water and Plant on YouTube or for more information visit your nearest indoor gardening retailer store. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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PRODUCT spotlight

ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.

Dutch Nutrient Formula Introduces Hydro-Organic-Based Grow and Bloom Formulas DNF Hydro-Organic Based Grow and Bloom are one part, completely soluble, stand-alone nutrients, formulated to meet nutritional requirements of plants in hydroponics, soil or soilless media. DNF Hydro-Organic-Based is enriched with OMRI certified organics and contains the precise formulation of minerals required for optimum growth. It is a specialty custom blend of all major, secondary and trace elements. DNF Hydro Organic Based is made with a concentrated formula of amino acids, vitamins, humates, electrolytes and major and minor micro-minerals to give your soilless medium the fertility required for crops. For more information on DNF Hydro Organic based formulas visit your local hydroponics retailer.

Introducing Aquaponics Grow Bed Media Ökotau Easy Green GmbH is proud to announce Aquaponics Grow Bed Media – the most essential hydroponic component for aquaponics systems. Great for growing all plants: vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers. • good plant and root support (sustains proper oxygen levels around the root zone) • higher plant growth and yield • better water buffering/excellent drainage • made from 100 per cent natural clay, and round and lightweight • pH neutral/contains no nutrient, no toxic chemicals/ compounds • medium (used within the hydroponics grow beds) will act as a bio filter (stripping off ammonia, nitrates and phosphorus, hence the freshly cleansed water can then be recirculated back into the fish tanks) • is available in 10 gallon bags Commercial and hobby growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics and aquaponics retailer for more information.

Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems is a book written by Dr. Elaine Ingham and Dr. Carole Ann Rollins. Simple explanations about how to add biology to any plant growing system makes this book easyto-read for the general public. Guidelines for conventional, sustainable and organic applications - whether growing indoors in controlled environments and soilless media or outdoors in open fields of soil. This book helps you design your growing systems and incorporate biology into your programs. Basic biology and chemistry of nutrient-cycling and plant growing environments are given, so the mystery is taken out of plant growing. Some chapters included are: 1) Synthetic or Inorganic Systems, 2) Biological/Organic Systems, 4) Roots Interface Biology and Plants, 5) Types of Beneficial Aerobic Microorganisms, 6) Environments for Maintaining Micro-organisms, 7) Microbes and Plants Form a Symbiotic Relationship, 8) Integrating Biology into Plant Growing Systems, 9) Applying Micro-organisms and 10) Testing for Biologicals. Available from Nature Technologies International in Novato, CA (www.naturetechnologies.com). Call 1-415-898-5895 to learn more.

All-New Active Aqua Trays Active Aqua growing trays come in two popular sizes and make growing easy with their versatility and solid construction. Both the eight by 41 inch and the 12 by 41 inch trays feature advanced channel design that eliminates channel blockage and standing water while ensuring prompt drainage.They are perfect for holding rockwool or stonewool slabs, Hugo Blocks, SureTo Grow or any loose growing media like peat, perlite or starter cubes. You can also place planters into the trays if you so desire. Contact your retail distributor for more information.

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Eco-Root New from Green Planet Wholesale Eco-Root Dip Gel contains 16 mycorrhizal fungi to build a natural microbial system in and around plant roots to enhance growth and vigor. Specially formulated amendments and a starch based gel for improved water store and uptake. Store in a cool, dry area. Not to be used with chlorinated water or hydrogen peroxide. • increases water and nutrient storage and uptake • promotes extensive root system and soil structure • will outperform any other rooting compound on the market • safe for food crops • no harmful chemicals (OMRI listed) • five year shelf life Available in five grams, 12.5 grams, and 25 grams. For more information on Eco-Root visit your local indoor gardening grow shop.

FHD Bucket System Its back and its better! Future Harvest is excited to bring to market our new and improved bucket system. Our new bucket system has a large 60 litre reservoir, and new shorter bucket stands that require less room for height. The new system allows for drainage to be hooked up below or to the side of the buckets. Comes complete with everything you need to get growing. Contact your local hydro shop for more information.

Zyme Now Available from Green Planet Wholesale

Zyme is a comprehensive enzyme formulation specifically designed to break down and redistribute organic components such as dead and diseased roots. Zyme assists the roots through its unique enzyme profile by uptaking and assimilating necessary minerals, vitamins and other bio-stimulants. Because Zyme is designed to break down specific organic particles, it is an essential component for customers interested in reusing their growing medium. Customer feedback suggests increased yields from reused mediums treated with Zyme. Zyme helps achieve a root zone that is healthy and active; therefore, no garden should be without it. • dry formulation for maximum performance and potency • dry formulation so you don’t have to waste money on water • proven to be the most effective enzyme on the market today • extremely concentrated • indefinite shelf life Available in 25 caps, 100 caps and 250 caps. For more information on Zyme visit an indoor gardening retail store.

MY You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow. Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or email editor@maximumyield.com

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AVANT-GARDENING

by Michael Bloch

Community Supported Agriculture: Food with the FarmeR's face on it

Natural food cooperatives are a form of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) where people band together to source organic produce grown locally by small farms and companies. It usually requires a little work on the cooperative members' part; but there are other variations with a more direct connection with a farmer. How Community Supported Agriculture works In the direct model, a farmer will offer shares of the farm's crop or produce to the public. The cost of the share, membership or subscription will vary widely. In return, the shareholder, member or subscriber will receive produce on a regular basis from the farm. Some farmers will offer choices based on customer preferences, while others will take more of a pot luck approach. Some CSA farms go beyond fruit and vegetables, offering eggs, dairy, meat and poultry. Sometimes farmers will join forces in order to provide a wider range of food options that CSA shareholders can select from. A brief history of modern CSA According to EarthRise Farm, a CSA and educational farm in Minnesota, the CSA concept can be traced to Japan in the mid 1960s. 138

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Food cooperatives have been in existence in Japan since the late 1800s, but in 1965, a group of Japanese women who wanted to source fresh produce for their families more directly approached a local farmer with the idea. The farmer agreed and a contract was drawn. In Japan, CSA is known as “teikei,” which translates to “food with the farmer's face on it.” A lecture outline from The Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems states the 10 founding principles of the teikei system in Japan are: 1. mutual assistance 2. intended production 3. accepting the produce 4. mutual concession in the price setting decision 5. deepening friendships 6. self-distribution 7. democratic management 8. learning among each group 9. maintaining the appropriate group scale 10. principle of steady development

For farmers, the CSA model allows them to receive income before planting and harvesting commences. It can help with financial and crop planning for the year ahead. Instead of being held hostage by large corporations, the farmer can also have more control over operations and spread the risk by having many individual customers or small buyer groups.

In existence in Japan since the late 1800s, CSA has provided families with local, fresh produce as well as community development and education.

How is the food distributed? Depending on the arrangement, the food may need to be picked up from the farm, but some farmers will transport it to a drop-off point in a nearby town or city.

The first documented CSA farm in the U.S. commenced in 1985 in western Massachusetts. Within four years, there were 37 CSA operations in the U.S. and Canada. By 1994, the number of CSAs in the U.S. was around 400. Data collected in 2007 by the U.S. Department of Agriculture indicates that 12,549 farms in the United States reported marketing products through a CSA arrangement.

CSA caveat emptor Caveat emptor is Latin for “let the buyer beware.” An important aspect about getting involved with a CSA is the willingness to accept risks, those being: • The farm may not produce the items you want. • The farm may not produce anything at all during some seasons.

Benefits of Community Supported Agriculture For the consumer, participation in CSA means ultra-fresh produce at very reasonable prices. Often farms offering a CSA program will also be environmentally aware, meaning the produce may be organic, or grown/raised with minimal chemicals. One of the great dangers in the modern world of food is that we tend not to know or care about the types of resources and practices that go into creating it. Food production is becoming an increasingly heavy burden on the environment, often focusing on quantity rather than quality. CSAs provide consumers with a greater connection with their food and this familiarity tends to create more interest in how their food is grown and the work involved. CSA farms also often encourage visits from families, which can be a great educational experience not only for adults, but for children too.

For example, there may be a drought or tornado that wipes out the farm's crop. Like the farmer, this is the risk that the CSA shareholder will need to take. In a good or average year, the shareholder will likely receive far more than their money's worth, but in a bad year, perhaps nothing at all.You'll likely be asked to sign a contract when joining a CSA farm acknowledging this issue, so as with any contract, read over it carefully. Finding a CSA farm near you In the USA, try www.localharvest.org/csa You might also want to try a more specific search on Google using your location name. If you can't find a CSA near you, perhaps contact farms reasonably close by to ask them whether they would consider the concept! MY

An important aspect of CSA is accepting the fact that the farm may not produce items you want or it may not produce anything during adverse growing seasons.

About the Author Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy offering a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

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MAX-MART

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802

ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733

ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344

ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955

CALIFORNIA 101 Hydroponics 2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200 Oxnard, CA 93030 805-988-6537 A Plant Hydroponics & Organics 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521 949-642-7776 A Fertile World (Eureka) 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200

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A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 AG Natural 403 Idaho Maryland Road, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-274 0990 Alameda County Hydroponics 20910 Redwood Road, Suite C, Castro Valley, CA 94546 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215 Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918

Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics 560 Valdry Ct #85 Brentwood, CA 94513 925-634-6704 BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Caliponics Inc. 2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110 Solvang, CA 93463 877-PONICS9 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 2626 South Main Street, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264

Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc. 591 main Street, Suite N-2 El Centro, CA 92243 760-235-4985 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276

Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Four Seasons Garden Center 1737 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612 510-832-2545 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce Street, Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Golden Gecko Garden Center, The 4665 Marshall Road, Garden Valley, CA 95633 530-333-2394 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31877 Corydon, Suite 150 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogarden 12506 Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 95945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922

Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Joint Ventures 61 Tarp Circle, Salinas, CA 93901 831-998-8628 GreenLeaf Hydroponics 2212 Artesia Boulevard, Redondo Beach, CA 90278 310-374-2585 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Avenue Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 92020 619-749-6777 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow King Hydroponics 932 South San Pedro Street, Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-689-8982 Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115

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Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416 Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Electronics 2547 California Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-9408 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro King 105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D, Redding, CA 96002 888-822-8941 Hydro King 2540 South Whitman Place, Chico, CA 959282 530-893-GROW (4769)

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Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection, The 316 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 415-864-9376 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376 Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 Hydroponics Unlimited.com 2728 E. Palmdale Boulevard #121 Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Igrow Hydro 2280 Veatch Street, Oroville, CA 95965 530-534-4476 Igrow Hydro 9000 Atkinson Street, Roseville, CA 95678 916-773-4476 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-652-4937 Kern Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B, Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624

Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459 Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1635 M Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 122 West 4th Street, Suite B Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1580 Nursery Way, Suite Q McKinleyville, CA 95519 707-839-9998

Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765 Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Pro Gardening Systems 4936 Highway 12, Santa Rosa, CA 95472 707-538-8402 Pro Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Redway Feed & Grain Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765

Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West 815 Almar Avenue, Suite K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East 4000 Cordelia Lane #4, Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Specialty Garden Center 1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10, Vista, CA 92084 760-758-4769 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300

Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 77 Avenue, Of The Giants, Phillipsville, CA 95559 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200 Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 The Green Shop 66420 Mooney Blvd., Suite 1 Visalia, CA 93277 559-688-4200 The Hydro Source 671 E. Edna Place Covina, CA 91723 877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128 The Shop 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply 3 E Olive, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tradewinds Wholeslae Garden Supplies 1235 Striker Avenue #180, Sacramento, CA 95834 888-557-8896 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmerville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Two Chix Garden Supply 1230 Yuba Street, Marysville, CA 95901 530-923-2536 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

147

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189

COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue, Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769 Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350

148

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro-Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769

CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757 Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923

FLORIDA Absolute Growing Solutions Inc. 7307 49th Street, Pinellas Park, FL 33781 727-541-3333 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Falero Hardware & Hydroponics 6758 W. Flager Street, Miami, FL 33144 305-266-8878

Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 561-333-1088 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769 GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161

Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792

GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030

HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955

IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714

ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply A-615 Industrial Drive, Gary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 Brew and Grow 1824 North Besly Court, Chicago, IL 60622 773-395-1500

Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769 Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Prairie House Garden Center 15151 South Harlem Avenue, Orland, IL 60462 708-687-3131 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929

INDIANA BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158

KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888

Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

LOUISIANA Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336 Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics 201 Angus Drive, Yungsville, LA 70592 337-303-6146 Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709

MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Urban Garden Center 235 Lewiston Road, Toposhan, ME 04086 207-373-0990

MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics Inc. 10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 866-MD-HYDRO Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901

MASSACHUSETTS Greenlife Garden Supply 481 Boston Road, Unit 4, Billerica, MA 01821 978-262-9966 Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 29 Washington Street, Route 1 Foxboro, MA 02035 800-660-6977

KENTUCKY

LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875

Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843

New England Hydroponics 15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

149

MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676

Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW

MICHIGAN

MINNESOTA

BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-1644 HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 SH Hydroponics Inc. 115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 734-879-4014 Sunshine Supply Co. 1807 South Mission, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 The Grow Store 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267

American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543

150

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218

NEVADA

Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 Eco Garden Supply 800 Transfer Door 25 in rear St. Paul, MN 55114 651-647-1896 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077 Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Blvd., Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822

NEW HAMPSHIRE

MISSOURI

Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030

Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Heartland Hydrogardens 5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L, Columbia, MO 65202 573-474-GROW (4769) Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676

NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630

AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769 Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852

HYDROGARDENS

NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Garden State Hydroponics 511 Avenel Street, Avenel, NJ 07001 888-300-8711 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 609-570-8829

greentouch2

NEW MEXICO AHL Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463

NEW YORK California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387

HYDROPO NI C S

I NC .

East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960 Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro 163 Broadway, Fort Edwart, NY 12828 518-480-4698 Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX Sunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing 1590 West Ridge Road, Rochester, NY 14615 866-395-9204

NORTH CAROLINA Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800 316 1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112

Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 Urban Organics and Hydroponics 4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106, Greensboro, NC 27407 336-316-0604 Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics 107 South White Street, Wake Forest, NC 27587 919-562-5343

OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 1749 South Main Street, Akron, OH 44319 330-724-2700 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Greenleaf Hydroponics 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679

Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Super Harvest 5956 A Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45239 513-385-5999 Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Urban Gardens 671 E. Center Street Marion, OH 43302 740-375-2800 Worm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Road (Route 236), Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088

OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018

OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11, Eugene, OR 97402 541-485-2171 Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens 1090 Benson Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors

BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 Philomath Road, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens 7530 Crater Lake Highway, White City, OR 97503 541-826-2946 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005 Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Moonshine Park Farm 135 South East 62nd, Unit F South Beach, OR 97366 541-444-2298

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Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420 SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333

PENNSYLVANIA Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118

RHODE ISLAND LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724

SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830

SOUTH DAKOTA Green Earth Products Inc. 5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1, Rapid City, SD 57702 605-342-1307

TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318 All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite E Goodlettsville, TN 37072 800-397-4153

TEXAS Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273

GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest 1500 Crescent Drive, #202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-820-9376 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376 Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425

UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200

VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100

VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425 Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259

WASHINGTON Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depo 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190

National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Light and Garden Vancouver 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000 River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055

WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800

PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252

MY WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE?

If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of ilona@maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue. Add your company logo to the distributor listings! Call 250-729-2677 or Email ilona@maximumyield.com

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009

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COMING UP IN december

FEATURES

The Eco-Home Charles Winslow takes us on a walking tour through his latest eco-home design featuring year-round hydroponic gardens, using plants and nature to enhance the living experience. Complete Nutrition Part II In the second half of the series, Evan Folds discusses the need for a balance amongst the essential plant elements in order for them to be relevant to plant growth. Weird Plant Happenings Dr. Lynette Morgan scrutinizes strange plant happenings that can be fascinating and completely natural, and also frustrating in some instances. Indoor Rainforests Utilizing hydroponic state-of-the-art technology, the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco has replicated tropic regions throughout the world in a glass sphere, as examined by Lee McCall. What is Soil? As one of the three major natural resources, it is important to further understand the components and history of soil, as told by Luis Bartolo. Temperature and Humidity in the Garden: The Winning Factors Isabelle Lemay and Mélissa Léveillé introduce the effects of climate on plants and which methods can be used to more efficiently control them in indoor gardening.

www.maximumyield.com Win Big! Grow Big! The latest indoor growing technology is available to be won in the November/December Win Big! Grow Big! draw. Enter online by December 15 at www.maximumyield.com/winbig and while you’re there, sign up for our E-News, available monthly to keep you in the know all year long. 154

MAXIMUM YIELD USA - November 2009