USA
I N D O O R
G A R D E N I N G
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novel genes Mutation Breeding out of Control Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition East Coast USA Indoor Gardening Expo
www.indoorgardenexpo.com NOVEMBER 7 and 8, 2009
FLORIDA
CONTENTS september 2009
FEATURES 42
Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition
58
CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right out of the Box - Part I
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Are you Afraid of the Dark?
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The Potential of Hydroponics: Can you see the Pesticides or GMO Genes in your Food?
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
by Erik Biksa
by Jonathan Valdman
by Evan Folds
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The Plant Factory by Dr. Michael A. Nichols
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Seaweed - A Precious Material for Plant Nutrition
106
Feed Circuits
110
Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing Clothe your Soil with Cover Crops
by Luis Bartolo
by Bob Taylor
by Roland Evans
106 DEPARTMENTS 10 From the Editor
116
Drying and Preserving Herbs
122
Tranquility in Hydro
126
Buying and Applying Mycorrhizal Fungi
by Matt LeBannister
by Lee McCall
by Donald Lester
88 Green Thumb Gardening
12 Letters to the Editor
104 Tips and Tricks
14 MaximumYield.com
132 You Tell Us
18 Ask Erik
146 Avant-Gardening
20 MAX Facts
147 Do You Know?
32 Product Spotlight
148 Max Mart
56 Growing for Health
152 Distributors
78 Beginner’s Corner
162 Coming up in October
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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FROM THE editor
jessica raymond
As growers, we are constantly on the lookout for what is best for our plants, and thus our families and our environment. There are so many avenues available to us in this thriving and modern industry that are just waiting to be explored, tested and improved upon. This issue questions the use of genetic modification and its inability to supply us with the nutrients we need to thrive. The point made is that though hydroponics can provide the highest quality food, its advantages could be utilized to an even higher extent if we only focused our attentions on natural processes. Other intriguing ideas present in this issue include lightdeprivation tactics, Feng shui hydroponics, seaweed plant nutrition and the many uses of mycorrhizal fungi. In order to help you test out some of these new growing techniques, you will need to have in hand the tools of the trade. I encourage you to visit maximumyield.com/winbig and enter for your chance to win water filters, cloners, CO2 generators and electronic ballasts. Enter by October 14.
contributors
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. A partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants, Lynette is involved in remote and on-site consultancy services for new and existing commercial greenhouse growers worldwide as well as research trials and product development for manufacturers of hydroponic products. Lynette authors five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.
Bob Taylor is the chief chemist of Flairform (www.flairform.com) - an
Erik Biksa, leading expert in hydroponic technologies, holds a diploma in Agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik’s earliest gardening experiences began when he started to walk, learning the secrets of time honored, old-world gardening practices from his grandfather. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research while pushing the boundaries of crop growth technologies. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.
Roland Evans is lifelong gardener and CEO of Organic Bountea. As
Jonathan Valdman, owner of Forever Flowering Greenhouses, has been striving to develop solutions to the environmental crisis facing our planet since watching Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth. Forever Flowering was born out of the Jonathan’s desire to prevent the overuse of HID lighting and convert growers into sun-loving greenhouse harvesters.
Matt LeBannister works at Homegrown Hydroponics, the
Evan Folds is president of Progressive Gardens, A Natural Approach
Lee McCall graduated from Johnson and Wales University with a concentration in Culinary Arts. Culinary school opened the door to research and work with hydroponics and organic production. Currently, Lee attends business school in Denver and focuses on continuing advancements with Maximum Yield and indoor gardening technology.
Dr. Mike Nichols retired from teaching horticulture at Massey
Donald Lester is the Plant Products Manager at JH Biotech, Inc., a
land care company and Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com), all located in Wilmington, NC. With a degree in biology and religion, Evan’s interests include making sense of food production and bringing awareness to the myriad injustices we collectively perpetrate upon ourselves as a society, including empty food, municipal water fluoridation and spiritual intolerance. Evan is also a board member on the Progressive Gardening Trade Association.
University at Christmas 2006, but has retained the title of “Honorary Research Associate”. He was elected and Honorary Member of the International Society for Horticultural Science in August 2006. He consults world-wide on a range of horticultural topics both for industry and for international organizations such as the United Nations.
Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the President and Chief Executive
Officer of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., (www.biobizz.nl) a global leader in the production of organic fertilizers and soil mixtures in the hydroponic industry, which he launched in 2002. He is passionate about maintaining a business philosophy that identifies with the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.
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Hydroponics is truly sweeping the nation – and that has never been more evident than it is now. This month's Max Facts display the passion and enthusiasm of new and innovative growers and their attempt to bring hydroponics to the mainstream. This enthusiasm will also, no doubt, be evident at the upcoming East Coast USA Indoor Gardening Expo in Orlando, Florida (November 7-8). Check out www.indoorgardenexpo.com for all the pertinent details. Keep sending me “Your Best Advice” and look for tips and tricks from other growers like yourself in upcoming issues of Jessica Raymond, Editor Maximum Yield. editor@maximumyield.com
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
Australian based manufacturing company. Up until 1992, Bob was the principal chemist of the water resources section at Western Australia’s State Government Chemistry Centre. Bob was an approved NATA signatory for a wide range of water analyses as well as an official registered analyst for the government’s chemical analysis monitoring program of all fertilizers registered in Western Australia.
a student and teacher of Holistic Systems, he actively promotes an ecological approach to cultivation using the Soil Food Web. Trained as a psychologist, Roland also writes on the interface between gardening and personal growth.
manufacturer of the DNF line of premium nutrients and enhancement products. Matt manages the retail store at Homegrown’s head office in Toronto and as of late has been traveling the trade show circuit as their resident expert. Matt hopes to make a big splash in the indoor gardening industry through Homegrown and Maximum Yield.
Ventura, California based agricultural technology company with 27 OMRI certified products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with an emphasis in entomology. He is an agricultural scientist with over 10 years of research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit in the areas of entomology and plant pathology. He also serves as the director of SaferGro Laboratories, a sister company of JH Biotech, Inc.
LETTERS TO the editor
The Right to Search
Where to Buy?
Your magazine is without a doubt excellent. My question is: Where can I purchase the products you have on your product spotlight pages? There are never any numbers or e-mail addresses to contact anyone.
Thanks Rod Maley
Kind Regards Trevor Melder
All of the products featured in the Product Spotlight pages of Maximum Yield can be found at indoor gardening retail stores. If your local hydro shop doesn’t carry the product(s) you’re looking for, simply ask for them by name and in most cases, they will be able to get that product ordered in for you. For a list of hydro shops near you, flip to the Maximum Yield Distributors on page 152.
Necessary Navigation Your site is great! But there is so much information it is difficult for a novice to navigate when I need specific information. Perhaps you could point me to a few articles on first time indoor vegetable gardening? Jefferson Gallaway
We are, in fact, developing an article-based search for the site to be released once a thorough testing process is completed. Our goal with maximumyield.com is to provide as much quality content and features to our online readers as we can. However, we also want to ensure this is not done at the expense of site usability or ease of navigation. Having said that, you may have noticed we recently introduced several new article navigation tools such as author lookup, additional articles by author and a library of complete back issues of all editions of Maximum Yield. Thanks for reading and keep growing. Wes Cargill Web Production
Foliar Advice I was wondering when is the best time to foliar spray. When there's light or no light?
A great place to start would be with Lee McCall’s Kindergardening, found in the June issue of Maximum Yield KinderGardening USA. Lee appreciates that novice growers sometimes get forgotten in the midst of all the technical jargon of our industry and details the basic steps for success in indoor growing. Follow this link to access Kindergardening: http://maximumyield.com/assets/pdf/back_issues/usa/MY_ USA_June_09_c.pdf by Lee McCall
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The hydroponic and year-round gardening industries tend to overlook the beginner. With a vast array of highly technical and scientific products and ideas, eager pupils may be intimidated and overwhelmed, resulting in a loss of appeal. With little to no experience and lacking the necessary growing equipment, beginners require assisted focus in order to apply accurate analysis and implementation. In my own personal experience I have found the greatest challenge to be convincing the beginner that he or she is proficient enough to run their own productive garden regardless of their experience.This article serves to help that beginner by guiding them through a simplified list of steps needed to start an indoor garden.
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - June 2009
Fresh Water Do you have any articles or data on reverse osmosis for hydroponic growing? Thank you! Donette Lamson
Richard Gellert has a great article: RO Logic: A Thinking Man's Guide to Reverse Osmosis is an excellent feature that is sure to provide you with the background and education that you are seeking on this topic. You can find RO Logic by following the link below: http://maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=356&yearVar =2008&issueVar=July/August from July/August 2008 USA 12
I really wanted to search on your website, but found there was no such feature. Any chance you are planning on adding a search bar to your website? I love your work. Great job!
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
Thanks Chrissy Pamplin
"Always experiment by just spraying a few leaves on one of your plants before subjecting the entire crop to a potentially damaging spray."
With most foliar applications (leaf sprays), it is safest to your crop to spray just as the lights are shutting off. Avoid making contact with the lamps when spraying, as this could be dangerous. Reduce your air circulation too, as typically you want the spray to be absorbed, not evaporated for better results. By the time the lights come on again, the spray will have been absorbed and the foliage dry. If you spray under bright light with no light inhibitors in the spray, the liquid on the surface of the plant may cause scorching of the foliage. Some types of products are more prone to cause "sun scald" than others, so you can always experiment by just spraying a few leaves on one of your plants before subjecting the entire crop to a potentially damaging spray, either in light or dark conditions. Additions of non-ionic surfactants will improve the effectiveness of most types of foliar sprays. Erik Biksa Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
We want to hear from you! Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 or Email us at: editor@maximumyield.com
Coming up on the Web Speed Read 1. Having been harvested for food, fertilizer and medicine for thousands of years, seaweed is a highly regarded natural product that can assist with healthy organic growing. Luis Bartolo delves into this topic further on maximumyield.com 2. Mark your calendar for the East Coast USA Indoor Gardening Expo in Orlando, Florida. The Greener Places, Sustainable Spaces event, November 7-8, will be held at the beautiful OrlandoMarriott World Center. Join Maximum Yield for a fun-filled and informative weekend. Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for more information. 3. Did you know root thickness is influenced by temperature? This and other fascinating hydro facts can be found in the featured articles this month on maximumyield.com
“If you are not yet using cover crops, you are missing out on one of the most important methods of sustaining soil fertility and supporting plant health.” (Roland Evans)
Contests: Have you entered your name in our Win Big! Grow Big! draw yet? There is still time – so head on over to www.maximumyield.com and enter for your chance to win all-new prizes for September and October. This month’s featured products were generously donated by Hydro-Logic, CO2 Boost, TurboKlone and Custom Automated Products.
Latest News • Four students win Best Global Impact Award for hydroponics vertical farm project. • Hydroponic rooftop gardens sprouting in cities around the world are producing hundreds of gourmet lettuce plants, long vines of gourmet cucumbers and bushes of cherry tomatoes. • High-tech urban growers are utilizing hydroponics to feed city dwellers.
Tell us what you think at editor@maximumyield.com. We’d love to hear from you. 14
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
I N D O O R
G A R D E N I N G
VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 6 September 2009 Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor. Publication Agreement Number 40739092
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek EDITOR - Jessica Raymond jessica@maximumyield.com ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677 Linda Jesson - linda@maximumyield.com Lisa Lambersek - lisa@maximumyield.com Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Julie Madden - julie@maximumyield.com PRODUCTION & DESIGN ads@ads.maximumyield.com Pentti Tikkanen - pentti@maximumyield.com Alice Joe - alice@maximumyield.com Wes Cargill - wes@maximumyield.com ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne Veres leeanne@maximumyield.com USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations BWGS, BWGS West and BWGS East General Hydroponics Hydrofarm Hydro International National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply R&M Supply Tradewinds CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group Biofloral Eddis Wholesale Greenstar Plant Products Inc. Hydrotek MegaWatt Quality Wholesale UK DISTRIBUTION Growth Technology Hydrogarden Northern Hydroponic Wholesale Nutriculture UK AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Futchatec Growth Technology Hydraspher
ASK
erik
Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to editor@maximumyield.com with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.
I just read your article titled Grow Room Construction 2004 from an old issue of Maximum Yield and it’s amazing. But, you didn’t talk at all about the relay system. Do you still think CEA is best served by that flip flop method? How do you deal with CO2 levels not getting too high in the side where the lights are off? I understand having small 250 cfm fans blowing into the lung, creating negative pressure, but does that not draw air in from somewhere else? Where do you recommend I seek two of those things that stopped air entering the dark side? Can vegetative CO2 levels really go to 4000 ppm? Thanks a lot, Matthew Mint Maximum Yield Canada July-August 2004
Matthew, Glad you enjoyed the article. It’s nice to get a question to see if my thoughts have changed on a subject. In this case, I think the non-relay set-up makes for a more straightforward installation (one big grow room versus two rooms), but the relayed set-up is most efficient. Yes, 4000 ppm of CO2 can be used. This is a relatively high concentration, and should be lowered when people are entering the area. The plants will grow at an accelerated rate provided other growing parameters are in check, i.e. lighting, temperature, nutrients, moisture, etc. High CO2 levels can be maintained throughout flowering, but are best lowered (1500 ppm) a couple weeks before the anticipated date of harvest. In CEA (controlled environment agriculture) three rooms are used. Two rooms are for growing and a separate or preferably larger room will act as the “lung.” The lung should be located between the two independent sealed growing areas. In this room, the air is cooled, scrubbed, de-humidified and enriched with CO2 (carbon dioxide). The air from this room is vented into the active growing room. It is also discharged from the active growing room back into the lung. When the lights “flip” into the other room, the air from the lung is "flipped.” Instead of the air from the lung going into and drawing from room “A,” it is now going to and being drawn from room “B.” This is most often accomplished with electric dampers (“gates” in ducting) and relayed fans. For specifics, consult with your hydroponics retailer or an HVAC technician.
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The relayed CEA is more efficient because: • the ballasts run for 24/7 • only one A/C is required • environmental equipment can be serviced away from the growing area (no interruptions of dark periods) • more space for growing; environmental equipment does not need to be located amongst the crop • fewer appliances to install; two rooms typically requires two times the equipment (versus non-relay) Hope this helps. Cheers, Erik
MY
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Organic Foods Provide More than Health Benefits Organic foods have long since been praised for their low impact on the environment. They have also been noted for being nutrient-dense and thus healthier for us. Through studies and comparisons, researchers have spotted a trend that supports the decline in the nutritional quality of fruits and vegetables produced via modern growing practices in recent decades. A study published in the Journal of Applied Nutrition lists many nutrients that appear to be altered based on how they are farmed. The levels of certain nutrients in a variety of produce were compared with astonishing findings: The study lists chromium as being found at levels 78 per cent higher in organic foods; calcium at 63 per cent higher; and magnesium at 138 per cent higher. Other studies have shown that the use of pesticides can also alter the levels of certain vitamins including B vitamins, vitamin C and beta-carotene in fruits and vegetables. While many studies have been done looking into the benefits of organic produce there still is much to be learned. (Source: www.naturalnews.com)
Gotham Greens in the Heart of NYC Urban agriculture operation Gotham Greens, the grand prize winner in New York's Green Business Competition, is nearly prepared to construct New York City's first commercial-scale hydroponic rooftop farm. The project will be installed on the roof of a 12,000 foot facility in Jamaica, Queens. The rooftop farm will grow over 30 tons of premium quality fruit and vegetables for New York City retail and restaurant markets. Utilizing controlled environment agriculture (CEA) techniques with unique energy saving innovations, produce will be grown in sterile rooftop greenhouses using clean, renewable energy and captured rainwater. The project has been fully supported by Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg as it is consistent with the key goals of PlaNYC, a long-term plan to create a greener, greater New York. Queen residents will be able to purchase locally grown fresh and organic vegetables and herbs by early 2010 from the impressive rooftop garden vegetation grown completely without the use of soil. (Source: http://gothamgreens.com)
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HGTV Opens Green Home to the Public The second annual HGTV Green Home was recently opened to the public and rave reviews were received. Every year a new green home is constructed, showcasing the latest trends in green design. Just a few of the environmentallyfriendly features to note included a hydroponics garden irrigated with recycled storm water and the use of solar energy and extremely energy efficient appliances. Not to mention the house was decked out in the most fashionable manner with a professionally decorated interior. This home is one of a select few that have received Platinum certification by the Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design program. This is the highest level of certification that can be attained. (Source: www.blogcatalog.com)
Michelle Obama Impresses Russians with her Gardening Knowledge On her second official international trip as first lady, Michelle Obama impressed Russian guests with her gardening skills and a message of lettuce and compost. Instead of focusing on her fashion sense or educational pedigree, it was the White House kitchen garden that was highlighted and the first lady’s role in tending it. A local weekly magazine, Ogonyok, which generally covers politics and culture, featured Michelle working in the garden with students from Bancroft Elementary School in the District. During the Soviet era, gardening had a special significance with the Russian people who raised vegetables for their family for the winter on small patches of land in the country. Gardening is still widely practiced there today. (Source: www.washingtonpost.com)
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Aquaculture Continues to Gain Popularity Despite concerns about the harmful effects of aquaculture, it remains a popular method of food production according to an assessment published in BioScience. The authors of the report believe it will probably remain the most rapidly increasing food production system worldwide through 2025. The total production of aquaculture has increased by 8.8 per cent per year since 1985 and now accounts for about 1 ⁄3 of all aquatic harvest by weight. The exportation of seafood grown using aquaculture techniques generates more money for developing countries than meat, coffee, tea, bananas and rice combined. If practiced well, aquaculture can reduce pressure on over-exploited wild stocks, enhance depleted stocks and boost natural production of fishes as well as species diversity. As the techniques improve, some harmful effects will diminish. (Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
Student Hydroponic Vertical Farm Project wins Best Global Impact Award A team of students from Ballard High School in Washington recently received notice that their hydroponic vertical farm project won the award for Best Global Impact at the Washington State University. The team was assisted by Homegrown Hydroponics in the research of their project “Imagine Tomorrow.” The model vertical farm used filtered rainwater with a green focus on saving money and cutting down CO2 emissions from the transportation of food. (Source: www.hydroponics.com)
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MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Arboretum Opens New "Living Garden Catalog" Exhibit Located in northeast Washington is the U.S. National Arboretum’s “Living Garden Catalog” exhibit, home to more than 100 acres of plant collections and gardens. The exhibit features plants new to American horticulture including annuals, perennials, plants shrubs and trees. There are also several plants specifically developed by Agricultural Research Service scientists, which are an intriguing addition to the living display. Located at the arboretum’s visitor center and the surrounding Introduction Garden, the “Living Garden Catalog” also features the latest trends and gardening styles with drought-tolerant plants and exciting container garden combinations showcased. The exhibit (Source: www.ars.usda.gov) runs through early October.
Backyard Food Gardening a Hobby for the Future According to industry surveys and analyses of this year’s seed orders, backyard food gardening is experiencing a boom with the economic downturn motivating people to grow their own. The seed sales analyses and telephone surveys were conducted by the National Gardening Association, with more than 50 per cent of U.S. residents saying they have already planted food gardens. Seed companies are selling out of popular vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers and onions. Burpee seeds recorded an increase of 20 per cent in sales from 2008 and have sold 15,000 of their first-time gardener’s kit called “The Money Garden.” Community gardens have also seen an upsurge in popularity. Many growers feel reassured knowing where their food comes from. Gardening also brings neighbors and communities closer through neighborhood vegetable (Source: www.naturalnews.com) cooperatives.
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MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
High-Tech Hydroponic Operations Set to Feed City Dwellers Long a niche technology existing in the shadow of conventional growing methods, hydroponics is getting a second look from university researchers and public health advocates. A program run by the California State Polytechnic University’s agriculture professor is part of a growing effort to use hydroponics to cultivate plants in nutrient-rich water instead of soil. Terry Fujimoto provides hands-on tutorials for his students in the campus greenhouse, with the hope of bringing farming to apartment buildings, rooftops and vacant lots in cities where consumers are concentrated. His aim is to prepare his students to operate urban hydroponic businesses that he believes will be of great importance in the future. Supporters point to the environmental cost of trucking
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produce from farms to cities, the loss of wilderness for farmland to feed a growing world population and the risk of bacteria along extensive, insecure food chains as reasons for establishing urban hydroponic farms. The produce grown by the students includes lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, bog Choy and herbs to name a few, which they sell in an on-campus grocery store and at farmer’s markets. (Source: www.blogcatalog.com)
MAX
facts
hydroponic news, tips and trivia
Sky-high Gardening in Florida with Hydroponics and Aquaponics
Rooftop garden in New York City's Rockefeller Center.
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Atop the new brick building attached to the renovated Garden Theatre in downtown Orlando is the future of urban farming. From floor to ceiling, Green Sky Growers is a rooftop hydroponic garden consisting of gourmet lettuce, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and basil. The urban farm also grows thousands of small tilapia fry in an aquaponics system. The two designers, Bert Roper (85), a retired citrus grower, and Tim Blank (39), former Epcot hydroponics expert, are working together to make this project commercially viable. The biggest challenge facing Florida right now is lack of water and with the technology used in hydroponics, the perfected set-up will utilize just five per cent of the water of a traditional garden.
The garden makes use of wasted urban space and the plants grow bigger and faster than traditional crops, a win-win situation. The 3,000 square foot research and demonstration garden is hurricaneresistant, built to withstand winds up to 120 mph. Educating the public about new ways to conserve the environment is also part of their mission. The new building has rain catchers on the roof and a 15,000 gallon cistern buried underground. Most of the water they use comes from the cistern and is re-used after being cleaned. School children have already toured the garden, by special arrangement. (Source: www.blogcatalog.com) MY
PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Secret Jardin Invites Gardeners to the Big Tent Party As impressive in quality as they are in size, Secret Jardin’s Intense grow tents are true portable grow rooms. Available in sizes that range from big to “Mammoth,” these incredible creations eliminate the hassle of finding a growing space that possesses both an ideal environment and plenty of room for a lot of plants. They’re not just big, though; they’re made with the same precision and care that Secret Jardin puts into all of its portable grow rooms. That means they all feature a lightproof, washable, 95 per cent reflective Mylar interior lining that’s strong without being too thick, roll-up access doors secured with high-quality zippers and plenty of access ports for ventilation, exhaust, electrical plugs and more. Their sturdy aluminum framework is held together by dual-locking stainless steel joints, and it can support up to 150 pounds of equipment at the center of the tent. Growers that need even more space than the largest Intense offers can take advantage of their ability to easily and smoothly link to one another, even between different sizes. The possibilities for customization are truly endless! Ask for the Secret Jardin Intense grow tents at your local hydroponics retail store.
Get Your Wings with the Fresca Sol™ Wing Reflector by Sun System® The Fresca Sol Wing Reflector is made from 95 per cent reflective German aluminum and easily attaches to the Fresca Sol™ Light System with four thumb bolts. Ideal reflector design and restrike bend above lamp optimizes performance. The reflector dimensions are 19¾ inches by 14¼ inches by 4½ inches. For more information on the Fresca Sol Wing Reflector, go to your nearest hydroponics retail store.
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Add Some Mega Reflectivity with the Fresca Sol™ Magnum Reflector by Sun System® The Fresca Sol™ Magnum Reflector was designed specifically to be used with the Fresca Sol™ Light System. Accept no imitations! This jumbo-sized reflector is made of 95 per cent reflective German aluminum, and easily assembles in minutes. The oversized design allows for a large coverage area - even when it is placed very close to plants. Check out the dimensions on this big bruiser: 34¼ inches long by 29 inches wide by 7¾ inches high. For more information on the Fresca Sol Magnum Reflector, visit your local hydroponics retailer.
STG Introduces the Deluge Insert for the C.A.P. Ebb-12 Sure To Grow has developed a one piece solid insert specifically for the C.A.P Ebb-12. Measuring 8.75 inches by eight inches, but only weighing 4.5 ounces, the Deluge Insert is ready to use out of the box with absolutely no pre-treatment needed. Designed as a complete replacement for hydroton, the Deluge is pH neutral and has a 1.5 inch cube cut out to accept your clone or grow cube. The Deluge is just one of the inserts in the new STG Storm series. The Storm inserts are one piece, solid inserts designed as a simple, ready to use, high performance replacement for hydroton and neoprene clone pucks for growers who use net pots and buckets. To learn more about the Deluge Insert, visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
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PRODUCT spotlight
Sure To Grow Launches New Storm Series Inserts STG has launched a major new product line called the Storm series. The Storm inserts are one piece, solid inserts designed to fit the most common sizes of net pots and buckets, with sizes to fit the most widely used systems including C.A.P. Ebb and Gro, Botanicare, GH, DWC, EZ Clone and many others. The Storm inserts are also perfect for use in any application where net pots and buckets are used; flood and drain tables, DWC, aeroponics and home builds. The Storm series is a revolutionary technology to replace hydroton with many advantages that growers will love. • ready to use out of the box; installs in seconds • pH neutral • no pre-treatment • weighs only ounces • no shed, no dust, no mess • keeps your systems clean and easy to maintain • STG non-wicking technology means little to no green algae Want to see the results of Storm series in action for yourself? Go to www.SureToGrowVideo.com or visit your local indoor gardening store.
All-New Garden Transformer Don’t spend hours trimming leaves when the Garden Transformer leaf trimmer can tear through those piles in no time at all. The Garden Transformer saves you valuable time and money. It is effective, economical and very quiet. It separates excess leaves and cut twigs from a variety of plants and flowers. The Garden Transformer trims plants and small bushes such as oregano, basil, rosemary, mint, lavender, coriander and parsley, used in the preparation of essential oils, aromatherapy and mixed flowers. Small, light and very powerful, this machine can be used for indoor and outdoor plants, fresh or dry. Included with the Garden Transformer is one pack of 10 blades, one pair of pliers and one dust cover to cover up the carousel when in use. Contact your indoor gardening retail representative for more information. 36
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Clean Slate from Green Planet Wholesale
Pro-Cal from Green Planet Wholesale
Clean Slate is used primarily as a root zone cleaning and conditioning agent. Clean Slate will naturally improve overall plant health by effectively cleaning and sanitizing the root zone. A clean, disease-free root zone promotes fine feeder roots, allowing the plant to uptake oxygen, nutrients and water at an increased rate, leading to healthier plants overall. This allows them protection from attacks of most common airborne pests, diseases, soil borne fungal and bacterial pathogen outbreaks. Clean Slate does not promote beneficial bacterial growth, so if this is your goal, this is probably not a desirable solution to use. Clean Slate should be applied as a stand alone root zone treatment. It has no systematic qualities so it doesn’t require any holding period before harvesting. Clean Slate is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Clean Slate visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
Pro-Cal is a highly beneficial calcium, magnesium and iron plant nutrient supplement. The recommended application rate normally is sufficient to make up for any deficiencies in most soil or hydroponic formulas. Note – in hydroponics, iron falls out of the solution relatively fast due to the use of magnetic driven pumps without grounding probes and high levels of dissolved oxygen from air stones and pumps. • more concentrated than competitive products • helps increase overall density in your plants • a must for growers who use coco • helps plants resist disease • remedies yellowing plants Pro-Cal is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Pro-Cal visit your local hydroponics retail store.
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Continued on page 138
Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition by Dr. Lynette Morgan
"Roots age, just as old foliage will senesce on the upper parts of the plant, but there will always be sufficient new root growth to continue to support the plant for as long as required."
Root systems can vary in size and nature between different species.
What do healthy roots look like? Just what a healthy root system should look like can be a little confusing. Many of us like to see very white, bright, thick roots with fluffy root hairs and a decent volume of roots within the system. Some growers are impressed by very long roots which grow down and out of the base of their containers. However, roots don’t have to be snowy white or very long to be healthy and often roots in certain types of hydroponic systems will have 42
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a different appearance. Temperature and stage of plant growth can also play a role in root appearance and some root death is part of the natural cycle of many plants that live longer. Tomato plants for example prefer to put large amounts of energy into growing young fruit and during this stage the roots may suffer some limited die back and change in appearance to that of a young vegetative plant. Roots age, just as old foliage will senesce on
Root system of a young garlic plant showing clean and healthy young roots.
the upper parts of the plant, but there will always be sufficient new root growth to continue to support the plant for as long as required. Darker colored roots – cream, tan or brown - are more common in plants past the seedling stage and under warmer root zone temperatures. Darker root color doesn’t mean the root system is unhealthy; in fact many plants develop well functioning brown roots as the plant ages. Root thickness is influenced by temperature, with thinner roots seen under warmer growing conditions, although this varies somewhat between species. One interesting experiment that hydroponic growers or students can carry out is to grow plants like lettuce or tomatoes in a few different types of root environments to see how this influences root appearance in healthy plants. Roots which are continually submerged in a deep solution culture system appear very different to those in a light growing media such as coir or those in aeroponics, despite all systems giving similar yields and growth rates. Roots adapt to the conditions they are grown in to a certain extent and can thrive in a range of environments provided they have sufficient oxygen, moisture and nutrients. In systems where the roots are obtaining all their oxygen requirements from the nutrient solutions, such as dissolved oxygen, they tend to not have the proliferation of quite visible white fluffy root hairs that those grown in aeroponics or a light, very well aerated media do.
Basic Anatomy Young roots in most plants look very similar. A few inches back from the root tip, there are usually very fine, delicate root hairs. Further back from the root tip, the lateral roots develop, giving the root system a highly branched appearance. The tip of the root is always covered by a root cap. New cells originate in the root tip, with elongation growth creasing often only a few inches behind the tip. For this reason, keeping the root tips healthy and in optimal conditions is essential for root system function and continued development. The root cap consists of short lived cells which contain large starch grains (statoliths) which sink under the influence of gravity to whichever sides of the cells are lowermost. This is thought to be the gravity sensing mechanism that causes roots to grow downwards. Root systems tend to consist of several different types of roots. Those that grow downwards strongly and become thickened will develop into tap roots. However, the majority of roots remain thin and only grow downwards weakly or not at all and these are termed fibrous roots. Lateral roots grow out from other roots, usually several inches behind the root tip. While adventitious roots are quite different and can grow out from stems and even leaves; these are commonly seen in plants such as tomatoes and peppers. The root cap cells have a rapid rate of turnover and as the older cells towards the outside of the cap age, they secrete `mucilage.’ The mucilage secretion coats the outside of the root tip with a thick slimy layer to which many of the old root cells stick. In soil, where roots are free to spread over quite a large area, mucilage is never really a problem and is rapidly broken down by microbes. In hydroponics we sometimes see problems in species such as cucumbers which produce large amounts of root mucilage, increasing the organic loading in low volume systems and, in particular, in water culture systems. Mucilage is rapidly consumed by microbes, but it can also be an organic food source where there are high populations of pathogens in the root zone.
Dense, healthy roots can form a thick mat at the base of hydroponic container systems.
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Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition Optimum Root Conditions What do plant roots need to function well and support good plant growth? There are three basic requirements – oxygen, moisture and correct nutrient balance. If these are kept in balance, then most plants won’t succumb to attack by root disease pathogens. Optimizing the root environment is the best method of keeping roots in tip top condition. Plants have the ability to absorb the oxygen they need for respiration, root function and nutrient uptake from both the air and that dissolved in water.
Root mats in NFT channels can become thick and dense.
While there have been some studies into the effects of mucilage in hydroponic systems, much depends on other factors such as the level of oxygen around the roots, moisture, species, types of microbes present and the amount of mucilage produced. What we should remember is that despite all the high tech equipment hydroponic growers can take advantage of, we are still running biological systems and there is a delicate balance to be kept between plants, microbes and the environment.
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The root mat on the left was grown in an oxygen enriched nutrient flow. The root mat on the right maintained lower levels of dissolved oxygen.
Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition acids are d nd humic an "Fulvic a r root function l fo e and beneficia h mineral uptak ." it assist w on of elements chelati
NFT spinach plants in healthy condition (left). Those on right have been infected with root pathogens and are only just starting to show signs on the foliage.
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However, the amount of oxygen that is typically dissolved in water or a nutrient solution is very low, only around 13 to 14 ppm at most, so it can be rapidly depleted unless replenished with solution aeration methods. Air contains significantly more oxygen, however, roots sitting in the air risk drying out unless kept moist by some method. In a media system, the pores within the media contain air which is replenished during the irrigation and draining cycles, however, the physical properties of media determine how much pore space and, therefore, air is available to the roots. The ideal pore space in a hydroponic media is between 20 to 45 per cent, depending on irrigation frequency and plant type. Light or granular media such as coir fiber, perlite, expanded clay and rockwool are usually very well aerated. Heavier media which holds a lot of moisture such as poor quality peat, compost or heavy soil, and any media which as become very compacted, often doesn’t contain sufficient aeration for maximum root growth. Prevention of fluctuations in moisture within the root zone is also important for healthy roots; drying and over wetting are major causes of root death and pathogen attack and although many plants can regenerate roots after a period of desiccation, they are often severely weakened. Nutrients are also vital. In hydroponics we don’t tend to see the type or frequency of mineral disorders in the root grown
Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition
Signs of a severe root disease outbreak, wilted, stunted foliage calls for an investigation of the root system.
crops, although they may develop. A lack of phosphorus can impede root development through a lack of energy production. A lack of calcium can cause the root tips to become jelly-like and boron deficiency can cause root splitting and hollow core in crops such as carrots, parsnips and beets. Boron is also a known synergist in combination with IBA for new root formation on cuttings. Additives such as silica can strengthen the root zone in many plant species and there is much evidence to suggest that maintaining a healthy balance of beneficial microbes in the root zone can assist root health. Fulvic and humic acids are also beneficial for root function and assist with mineral uptake and chelation of elements, making them more available for plant growth. "Plants which are not thriving may develop leaf epinasty (bending downwards), wilting, loss of leaf color or foliage and flower drop may have a root zone problem."
Pathogen Attack Healthy roots should be intact – that is not mushy, breaking apart, rotten, decaying, smelling bad or withering away. Large amounts of broken root pieces flowing back to the reservoirs in NFT and similar systems are a warning sign (unless they are there due to harvesting or removal of mature plants). Other warning signs that things might be falling apart down below can be a little more difficult as these are quite similar to many other problems caused by pests, diseases, mineral deficiencies, physiological problems, viruses and poor environmental control. However, symptoms such as yellowing or chlorosis (yellowing between the veins) on the new foliage indicate a problem with iron uptake and although this might be caused by low temperatures or a lack of iron in the nutrient, it is more often than not caused by root death. Once roots begin to die back, or are weakened and not functioning well, iron is one of the first elements that the plant fails to take up and chlorosis develops rapidly. Plants which are not thriving may develop leaf 48
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Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition as pythium, rhizoctonia and phytophthora can result in root die back on more mature plants with similar symptoms. Strange Root Happenings Strange root happenings can often bamboozle a new grower and some plants are more prone to these than others. The most common is the little, thick root stubs that are often seen on the lower stems of tomatoes and peppers. These are adventitious roots and while they do sometimes indicate that less then ideal
Float or raft systems are great for observing root form and health without disturbing the plant.
epinasty (bending downwards), wilting, loss of leaf color or foliage and flower drop may have a root zone problem; this should certainly be investigated along with any other potential causes. Large amounts of dead roots can be easily identified if a plant is removed from the hydroponic system – many roots will be disintegrating and whole root system may appear very sparse in advanced cases. Many of us are already fully aware of what ‘damping off ’ looks like on seedlings. The same pathogens such
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Color, thickness and length of roots are influenced by a number of factors including temperature, oxygen levels and stage of growth.
Keeping Roots in Tip-Top Condition
Healthy hydroponic roots (left), roots infected with pythium (right).
conditions have occurred in the root zone, they can be quite normal on many cultivars and not a cause for major concern. Seedlings of some species such as spinach may give the appearance that the roots are bursting up from the surface of the media instead of growing directly downwards; this too is a sign that conditions in the growing media are not ideal, perhaps over saturated, cold or too compacted. Strange white waxy or flaky flecks attached to the roots or in the growing media can indicate the presence of root mealy bug
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– a nasty pest which can be common in house plants, ornamentals and longer term crops. Re-potting and drenching with pesticide is about the only way to control these root sucking critters, although many plants manage to survive infestations for considerable lengths of time. A proliferation of very short, stunted roots with a small compacted root ball and root tips that don’t appear to want to grow down in the nutrient flow or growing media are a sign of phyto toxicity. This has been seen where phyto toxic plasticizers have inadvertently been used to make channels and growing containers. Luckily this was more common in the very early days of hydroponics and is not an issue for hydroponic gear manufactured now. However, use of plastic containers not originally designed for hydroponics can still cause these phyto toxicity symptoms in the root zone. A healthy root system is essential for a healthy plant; however, learning to recognize signs of trouble in the nether regions of your plants takes some experience and observation. Keeping a keen eye on root health is worth the time and effort for a MY healthy hydroponic system. Interested in reading more of Dr. Lynette Morgan's articles? Visit www.maximumyield.com and search our author archive.
GROWING for health
Chamomile: Nature’s Dreamcatcher by Charlene Rennick Chamomile is an attractive addition to any garden. It is
Where Chamomile Will Thrive
a tiny, shrub-like plant that sprouts an abundance of delicate white and yellow blossoms similar to a daisy. Its tendril-like leaves are soft and feathery. Chamomile is a good candidate for early germination in hydroponic gardens. It can be moved outdoors when the weather is warmer and harvested as needed. Chamomile has been cultivated for its medicinal properties since the beginning of the first millennium.
Chamomile prefers full or partial sun. The soil should drain well and have a constant source of moisture; therefore, chamomile lends itself readily to being grown in a hydroponic system. The plants propagate themselves via runners which make them an economical herb. They can be split and used in additional locations the following year. It also gives them the propensity to be invasive; controlling their growth early is a proactive plan for cultivating chamomile. MY
Sharing the Medicine of Chamomile German and English chamomile flowers and leaves are used externally for a variety of ailments. Its oil has been popular for its antiseptic properties. Dried chamomile can be made into an infusion and applied to the skin. It is said that the infusion soothes skin irritations, speeds up the healing process and helps to get rid of some types of mites. The active ingredient in chamomile oil is bisabolol; this contains alcohol and acts as an anti-irritant and an anti-microbe (kills bacteria and parasites). It can be used as a mouthwash. Bisabolol also assists with the reduction of external swelling and can have a lightening effect on blond hair. German chamomile flowers can be dried and taken internally as a tea. It can be bitter-tasting, so mixing it with peppermint or adding a little honey takes the edge away from it. When used this way, its natural muscle-relaxant qualities calm the digestive tract, sooth cramps and alleviate menstrual pains. Its mild sedative effect helps to induce sleep and calm the mind before night-time. Because chamomile contains coumarin, an anti-coagulant, people taking blood-thinners should avoid drinking chamomile tea. Chamomile is a member of the chrysanthemum (Asteraceae) family. The infusion can be sprayed on other plants as a natural pesticide. Pregnant or breast-feeding mothers should avoid consuming the medicine from the chamomile plant. Chamomile is similar in structure to the ragweed, so it may cause an allergic reaction in people with that particular allergy. 56
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CEA: Creating the Perfect room, Right out of the box Part I
by Erik Biksa
CEA (Controlled Environment Agriculture) for improving yields and cropping consistency has been discussed by this author for some time now, with the first such article appearing in the September/October edition of Maximum Yield in 2002. For those of you just tuning in to growing indoors, CEA growing set-ups are “sealed” or “perfect” grow rooms. This means that temperature, humidity and CO2 (carbon dioxide) levels are all very tightly controlled by the grower, and can be maintained at optimal levels at all times for better crop production, regardless of the environmental conditions outside of the growing area. This separates CEA set-ups from traditional in/out style gardens that use an active air intake and exhaust to help moderate the growing environment. While in/out gardens can produce well, they are inconsistent because the environment that can be maintained in the grow room will largely be dependent on the RH (relative humidity) and temperature of the outside air being drawn through the room.
t Keep it Tigh ed growing tely Pre-fabricat proportiona housed in to lp he s enclosures om nsulated ro larger well-i t-up. eal CEA se id e th te crea
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"While HIDs can deliver bright light, they generate a tremendous amount of heat that must be managed." For example, if the outside air in the summer time is 85°F, it will not be very effective for cooling a self-contained growing environment that uses HID (high intensity discharge) lighting. While HIDs can deliver bright light, they generate a tremendous amount of heat that must be managed. Aircooled lamp reflectors can reduce the cooling requirement of any growing environment, making them a smart investment. However, there will still be some rise in ambient temperature in the grow room, and if outside air is relatively warm to begin with, the grow room will overheat. Overheating in grow room is the number one source of crop failure or disappointing yields for indoor growers. Also, if humidity rises in traditional in/out gardens, the air needs to be exhausted and replaced with outside air. If the RH of the outside air is relatively high, which in most regions is more common than not, the grower loses control over the RH levels in the grow room, leading to poor crop quality and incidence of yield reducing flower and fruit rots, moulds, blights, etc. Furthermore, increasing CO2 (carbon dioxide) levels in the growing environment can significantly increase yields and reduce cropping time, if properly managed. It is difficult to maintain elevated CO2 levels with in/out gardens because the air is exchanged frequently, if not continuously. The majority of any supplemental CO2 the grower introduces into the in/out grow atmosphere will quickly be exhausted away from the plants when the room is cooling (by exchanging outside air). This reduces the contact time the supplemental CO2 has with the crop, making it less effective if not ineffectual. Most experienced and knowledgeable growers will maintain that CEA growing set-ups are more productive and easier to work with. A lot of newer growers view the idea of a sealed room with no active in/out fans as alien, and perhaps intimidating. Some smaller and mid-scale experienced growers agree with the CEA concept, but feel that such set-ups are reserved only for the large scale producer due to the additional expense involved versus traditional gardening set-ups. Well the truth is CEA is more affordable and easier to access than it has ever been before. It can be more economical to upgrade an existing grow room to CEA than it is to create a completely new grow room due to the more frequent, larger and healthier yields that can be achieved. The following will discuss how to setup a hobby sized CEA environment using plug and play technologies available from professional hydroponics retailers or your favorite online sources. You can also use the information in this article to convert your existing in/out set-up to a more productive and easier to control CEA grow room. Once you make the switch, you won’t MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box look back. Do note, however, that CEA growing environments will use about 25 to 30 per cent more electricity versus traditional in/out set-ups. If electrical consumption is a major concern, there are some very energy efficient cooling methods for sealed environments now available, such as water cooling. Just be prepared for a learning curve and additional installation and trial time when taking advantage of water cooling for the first time. The savings in electrical consumption using water cooling can help to recapture some of the initially higher capital outlay in more energy efficient CEA set-ups. Remember that the principal difference(s) between CEA and traditional in/out grow rooms is that an air-conditioner or chiller will cool temperatures without exchanging air. Humidity can be lowered with a de-humidifier, which typically cycles more often in the dark cycle as the air conditioner operating during the lighting cycle tends to keep humidity levels in the optimal range. Carbon dioxide is supplied via CO2 generators or bottled CO2, and the air is kept purified and free of contaminants with an activated carbon filter and/or HEPA filter scrubbers. The grower sets the desired temperature, humidity and CO2 levels on their control equipment and the perfect growing environment is maintained everyday, consistently for better harvests year round. The level of control offered is every grower’s dream; you can manipulate the environmental parameters on a weekly basis to help encourage different traits in the crop throughout the cropping cycle. The colorations of flowers and fruits at harvest in a CEA endeavor can be very dramatic and tantalizing. "The level of control offered is every grower’s dream; you can manipulate the environmental parameters on a weekly basis to help encourage different traits in the crop throughout the cropping cycle." Step 1: Seal the Room The growing environment needs to be well sealed in order to be effective and efficient. The easiest way to accomplish this is to purchase a pre-fabricated grow tent or hydro hut; they are available in a multitude of sizes, anywhere from as small as two feet by two feet to beyond 10 feet by 10 feet. Look for manufacturers that have a history of standing behind their product when making a selection. Pre-fabricated grow tents and hydro huts are completely sealable, and usually have multiple zippered openings to contain light and air, while maintaining complete darkness for the dark phase, which is absolutely essential. They are easy to clean and relatively water-proof, allowing people to set-up a high quality grow room in any space that fits without making any significant alterations to existing rooms.You can usually have one completely assembled using minimal or no tools in less than one hour. Note however that they are not well insulated, so the area you set them up in should be, ideally. 60
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CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box If you already have a grow room, make sure to seal up any cracks and leaks. Go through the following checklist: • Remove and seal off previous intake and exhaust ports, you may choose to keep them for use with air-cooled lighting however. • Seal off any cracks with expanding foam, available in cans. Make sure to wear gloves and old clothes when applying. • Ensure that any duct work, i.e. air cooled reflectors, is well sealed using aluminum tape. • Make sure that the doorway does not leak air. This can be accomplished by using a sheet of durable and reflective poly sheeting with some heavy duty adhesive zippers or Velcro strips. • Retain your carbon filter and fan; you will need this for “scrubbing” the air within the CEA growing set up. • Ensure that the grow room Fan Speed Control itself is well insulated to If you are running centrifugal inline fans for air cooled lamp improve efficiency and reflectors, a device like this can really reduce noises that can be improve the efficiency and operation of your CEA endeavor by continuously disturbing outside of the adjusting fan speed automatically. growing area.
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STEP 2: Equipment Checklist: Environmental Controller(s): You will need: • cooling thermostat • de-humidistat • high temperature kill-switch A high-temp kill switch is a relatively simple device: if the temperature gets too high due to equipment failure or other problems, it shuts off the HID lights until temperatures go back to normal or until the problem is remedied. This device can save your crop. Fan speed controllers are also recommended for use with air-cooled lighting and carbon scrubbers. For aircooled lighting, a high quality fan speed controller will reduce your cooling requirements by more energy intensive equipment such as air-conditioners. The controller featured in this article allows the air-cooled lighting fan(s) to remain at a constant “on” at a speed and decibel pre-set by the grower. If temperatures
CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box increase, fan speed increases and vice versa. Also, if the temperature becomes too cool, the device will shut-off the air-cooling fans allowing for the growing environment to maintain the optimal temperature. If you use centrifugal fans for any kind of cooling purposes, get one of these controls! Carbon Dioxide Gear: One of the benefits of running a CEA grow room is that you can effectively supplement and maintain increased levels of CO2 in the growing environment for faster growth rates and bigger yields. CO2 can increase your yields by as much as 30 per cent, assuming all other growing parameters are optimal, which is achievable in a CEA set-up. You will need: • either a CO2 generator (propane/ natural gas) or a tank (bottled CO2) • an infrared CO2 monitor/controller (pricey, but worth it) or a timer.
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Note: if going with a REG (regulator, flow meter and solenoid) system for bottled CO2, you may choose an IR monitor/controller or a timer. If going with a CO2 generator, only an IR monitor/controller is recommended for safety and accuracy.
CO2 Enrichment Since the growing environment exchanges little or no outside air, CO2 levels are boosted for better growth and bigger yields.
Environmental Control: Air Conditioner The AC or chiller unit is at the heart of all successful CEA operations. ACs are energy intensive, although they can keep a sealed room at the perfect temperature when sized correctly for the number of lamps and other sources of heat like gas fired CO2 generators. The rule of thumb is to allow for about 4500 BTUs of cooling for every 600 to 1000 watts of light. The exact BTU rating required is somewhat dependent on how well the room is insulated; if the ballasts are in the room or not; if air cooled lighting is being used; as well as if a gas fired CO2
CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box
Air Cooled Lamp Reflector Looking inside this air cooled lamp reflector, you can see the “in” and “out” duct ports. Heat is removed in this method before it gets a chance to heat up the grow room, reducing AC cycling.
generator will be. Again, usually 4500 BTUs is a good rule of thumb. It’s better to get a unit that’s a little bit of overkill than to have a unit that can’t keep up, forcing the grower to shut down individual lamps. For most hobby sized, one to two light endeavors and a portable upright style AC will do the job and they are relatively inexpensive and easy to find. They are commonly available in 9500 to 12,000 BTU ratings for cooling. They also have the benefit of being able to plug into common 110/120 volt household circuits, although an entire circuit (breaker) should be dedicated to the AC unit. Most upright portable ACs will use a discharge hose to vent heat away. This means discharging heat to the outside, along with a small volume of air from the grow room. The air volume discharged is relatively small versus fan cooling rooms and cycles on and off rather than constant, so CO2 supplementation still remains relatively efficient. Also, since a carbon or HEPA scrubber operates 24/7 in the growing area, offensive odors are not released to outside of the growing area through the AC discharge. Sometimes growers need to lengthen the hose for discharging warm air away; this will likely void warranties although it can be accomplished with duct booster fans and insulated flexible ducting. An alternative method to create a small CEA environment is to install a window air conditioner in a spare room. The air in this room is kept cold at all times and can be vented into the CEA growing area to cool the air as necessary via intakes and ducting; the air from the growing area can be vented into the spare room, which now acts as the “lung” for the growing endeavor, keeping it cool and fresh. In these instances you may want to retain the duct ports from your existing grow room. There are specialty air conditioners available that are better suited to CEA endeavors, although they usually need to be obtained from specialty suppliers. These types of units exchange absolutely no outside air with the air inside of the growing environment. “Split” ACs are an example of this, as well as units that utilize an exclusive air intake and exhaust to the AC unit itself. The intake and exhaust never touch the air from the 66
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CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box
Specialized Air Conditioner An air conditioner like this one is ideal for CEA, because the unit will not exchange the air from your grow room with or into outside air; keeping things “sealed.�
growing environment; they are used exclusively to keep the AC blowing cold air into the grow room when activated by the cooling thermostat. In this method the AC itself is acting as a sealed unit. Water cooled ACs are the ultimate for CEA endeavors. All of the heat is discharged down the drain with water, and no hot air needs to be discharged anywhere. Typically a flow rate of 1.5 gallons per minute is required to effectively operate water cooled air-conditioners, so access to large volumes of cold water is required. However, as stated previously for most small hobby sized CEA endeavors, a portable upright AC is inexpensive, easy to find and relatively efficient. "If you use water chillers/fan units to cool the growing environment, you will really need to step-up your de-humidification capabilities." De-Humidifier This will help to keep humidity from climbing to excessive levels in a tightly sealed room, as the crop transpires water through the leaves that was absorbed through the roots. Excessive humidity levels encourage stretchy low yielding growth and often promote diseases such as rots and mildews. A de-humidifier will add a bit of heat to the growing environment, and will discharge condensed humidity through a drain hose.You can save this water and use it for other purposes. The de-humidifier is controlled by the de-humidistat, which operates 24/7, although the de-humidifier will cycle most often during the dark cycle when the AC cycles are infrequent. If you use water chillers/ fan units to cool the growing environment, you will really need to step-up your de-humidification capabilities. For most applications, count for about 25 to 30 pints per 24 hour period of de-humidification capability per 1000 watt lamp of garden. Carbon/HEPA Scrubber (with fan) You may already have one or several of these if you are converting your existing grow to CEA. Otherwise, you will need to size-up an appropriate activated carbon filter or HEPA filter. In fact, the best solution is to use both. Have your fan draw the air from the grow room through the activated carbon, 68
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CEA: Creating the Perfect Room, Right Out of the Box
CEA Organs If CEA systems are “beasts,� the AC and de-humidifier featured here are like the heart; quite necessary to keep things alive and healthy.
then discharge and re-circulate it through the grow room through a specialty inline HEPA filter. This will keep the air smelling fresh and clean, while reducing insects, spores, dust and pollen in the growing area. This equals healthier air yields, healthier plants and fewer problems. Usually for an area with two to four HID lights, a six inch inline centrifugal fan with the correct sized carbon filter and the six inch fan mount HEPA will keep the air perfectly fresh for you and your garden. Well, that should give you enough to do between the time you read this article and the continuation that will appear in the next
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edition of this magazine. Besides, you may already have a crop in progress, and will have to wait until you harvest to make the switch to CEA from your existing in/out growing set-up. Start to take note of which pieces of equipment you already have that can be used to make the upgrade, while researching and sourcing any other controllers, appliances, etc you will require to make the change-over complete and effective. The extra time and expense that you put into this will be worth it when you are able to realize exacting and complete control over the temperature, humidity and CO2 levels in your growing environment. Not only will you potentially yield more at harvest due to improved CO2 levels, you will be able to bring out delicious and eye pleasing qualities in your plants that can best be achieved through precise temperature manipulation made possible by running a sealed and air conditioned environment. In the next installment we will discuss putting it all together and how to make the most of your modern day CEA growth chamber, including crop feeding, for the biggest and tastiest yields you have ever had. Until next time! MY Visit www.maximumyield.com for an all-in-one materials list for a simplified CEA hobby set-up.
Are You Afraid of the Dark?
by Jonathan Valdman A current flowering technique becoming more common amongst growers is called light deprivation, also known as ‘blacking out,’ ‘light-dep’ and inducing photoperiod.To ‘light-dep’ a plant is to shorten the duration of its sun’s light cycle so as to encourage the plant to flower in a time of year that wouldn’t naturally trigger plants to flower outdoors. For instance, by reducing the summer sun to only 12 hours of light, it would trigger the plant to recognize that the end of it’s life cycle is close and, therefore, begin the flowering/seed production phase of it’s life. 74
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"Light deprivation gives you the best choice for low energy consumption growing using the free power of the sun while allowing for multiple high yield, high quality crops." Obviously this method of farming is only beneficial for plants whose flowering cycle is determined by the amount of hours it gets of light and the number of hours it gets to rest and process its food. This technique affords the farmer several benefits. In environments that have a short growing season due to early/ late frosts, light deprivation allows an outdoor crop to start flowering earlier than ‘full season’ plants, therefore, allowing for an earlier harvest and eliminating the detrimental effects of cold and frost to the crop. Multiple crops can be grown each year outdoors in the same amount of space that one crop would be grown in. The third and fourth cycles seem to have considerably less quantity of flower mass produced than the first two due to the decreasing potency of the autumn/ winter sun. This method also gives the grower the ability to implement supplemental lighting within this new growing environment, allowing them the ability to extend their daylight hours when there is less than 12 hours of sunlight. This can be used to add some extra flowering hours or add even more hours of light to simulate the summer vegetative sun cycle. Some light deprivation supply companies offer lumen meters that automatically turn on your supplemental lighting when light levels go to low sun to foggy mornings, cloudy/rainy days and/or timer systems to control the lighting cycle. Overall, light deprivation gives you the best choice for low energy consumption growing using the free power of the sun while allowing for multiple high yield, high quality crops. These days growing has a lot to do not only with quality and variety but the time of the season in which you can market your products. There’s nothing like having a bumper crop of tomatoes at the same time every other farmer just harvested their crop. Instead, by using the control that light deprivation offers to the farmer you can have a high quality crop available when everyone else’s flower sites are just starting to develop and/or your second crop harvested when all the long season growers are just starting to get prepared for the harvest season. This all sounds great, so what's the drawback? The farmer has to be very aware as to make sure that the cycle stays the same every day. This means that if one is to choose a dark period of 7 p.m. to 7 a.m., then the plant has to be blacked out everyday 7 p.m. and opened at 7 a.m. everyday. It is the same as an indoor growing environment; when it’s night time, its night time. What you put into it is what you will get out of it. As well one needs to make sure that there are no ‘light leaks’ in this artificially induced dark room. Lumen meters show that what the human eye sees is not necessarily what the plant sees. Zero lumens, what a plant generally considers very dark, can be achieved while still being able to see things with MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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Are You Afraid of the Dark?
"When a grower is choosing a design one should consider a company that automates their systems under greenhouse material or creating a manual system themselves that is covered by an outer layer of greenhouse material."
"Zero lumens, what a plant generally considers very dark, can be achieved while still being able to see things with the human eye."
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the human eye. As a matter of fact, the industry standard for blacking out a crop still allows an individual to be able to read a newspaper in! Some of the hardships light dep deals with as well is trying to keep the heat and humidity levels in check in the dark phase so as to not make the plant stretch, mold or get mildews and other diseases due to these levels getting out of check. Again, it is similar to an indoor growing environment. Sometimes you will need to add exhaust fans or circulation fans to create air movement when the blackout is closed. A good technique is to choose a flowering time that allows you to close the blackout just as it is getting dark and then an hour after it is good and dark retract the blackout. In the morning close the blackout an hour before it gets light out. This allows the plants to be in fresh air the majority of the night and decreases the amount of time that they are closed in a space. When a grower is choosing a design one should consider a company that automates their systems under greenhouse material or creating a manual system themselves that is covered by an outer layer of greenhouse material. The reason I mention this is that there is nothing like trying to manipulate a long cumbersome piece of plastic that is soaking wet from the rain and keeping it from not snagging and ripping and the like. Some companies offer automated systems to make sure that the timing stays constant. Controlling the hours of the blackout system allows one to take advantage of this method of allowing fresh air all night to the plants while not tying the grower to the needs of the plants an extra four times everyday. Breathable, to cut down on high heat and humidity levels and non breathable blackout fabrics are available by some companies as well. When choosing a blackout material keep in mind the choice of longevity. There are cheap pieces of black plastic that hardware stores sell that can do the trick. But consider that they will trap in all of your humidity and heat and at the end of the season you have a big piece of plastic to throw away. There are materials available on the market that create a superior growing environment and have the benefit of lasting multiple seasons. They are usually more of an investment but successful businesses make investments. The idea is that although your lighting is now free from the sun you are still trying to create the ideal ‘indoor’ growing environment, affording the grower the best of both worlds; the efficiency and quantity of outdoor growing and the control, consistency and quality of indoor growing. MY You will find a large selection of beautiful, quality greenhouses featuring light deprivation technologies at www.maximumyield.com
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BEGINNER'S
corner
Why You Should Use a Compost Activator
by Ferdinand Emy
Composting can provide many benefits, but when you are first getting started, it can be somewhat confusing. Composting is a combination of nutrients and micro-organisms. They are typically available in powder form and poured into holes within the compost pile. So what is a compost activator, also referred to as a compost incoluate, and how does it benefit your compost? Herbal compost activators may contain such ingredients as dandelion, chamomile, yarrow, oak bark, nettle, valerian and honey. The pile will then be efficiently composted within one to three months, depending on the time of year. There are also other types of natural compost activators that are produced from other materials such as comfrey leaves, chicken manure and grass clippings.You can choose to add compost activators to your compost pile when you first start it in order to give it a kick start or you can add compost activators in at different times of the year as you see that they are needed. Generally, compost piles will take some time to decompose naturally.
This is something that you want to avoid, thus the need for the compost activator. When using these types of compost activators, they are usually just added directly on top of the other compost scraps. One element that you will run across and need to understand is the compost activator can also be used to provide the heat activation that the compost pile needs when the weather is below 50°F. Herbal compost activators are completely natural and work efficiently and quickly. The ingredient mix in herbal compost activators creates a compost pile that has a sweet scent to it. While you could certainly allow your compost pile to decompose on its own without adding in a compost activator, you run the risk of attracting odors and flies as well as other pests to your compost pile. A compost activator works by providing the nitrogen that a compost pile typically lacks naturally. Nutrients, including potassium, may also be added to these compost activators. The holes are then filled back in. It is added to the compost pile for the express purpose of speeding up the breakdown of the scraps in the pile. Other options for compost activators include fish, cottonseed, alfalfa meals and bone meal. MY
About the Author: Ferdinand is the author of “The Keys to Great Composting.� This book teach you how a compost activator works and how it will tremendously enhance your composting experience today.
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The Potential of Hydroponics:
Can you see the Pesticides or GMO Genes in your Food? by Evan Folds “The power of population is indefinitely greater than the power in the earth to produce subsistence for man." Thomas Malthus, An Essay on the Principle of Population (1798)
"In October 1838, that is, fifteen months after I had begun my systematic inquiry, I happened to read for amusement ‘Malthus on Population,’ and being well prepared to appreciate the struggle for existence which everywhere goes on from long continued observation of the habits of animals and plants, it at once struck me that under these circumstances favorable variations would tend to be preserved, and unfavorable ones to be destroyed. The results of this would be the formation of a new species. Here, then I had at last got a theory by which to work." - Charles Darwin, from his autobiography (1876) It is always interesting to note the influence and power of something as simple as an open mind or an idea. It was Thomas Malthus’ articulation of the dangers of human overpopulation that 80
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solidified the theory of evolution in Charles Darwin’s mind, but both theories are flawed. Malthus predicted widespread famine and poverty based on his view of what he saw as overpopulation in pre-industrialized 19th century England. He believed that these events were a form of divine institution and that such natural outcomes were God’s way of preventing man from being lazy. And Darwin, for reasons unknown, forgot about humans. He conveniently chose not to address the fact that Homo sapiens do not abide by the mechanisms of natural selection and survival of the fittest that comprise his theory of evolution. They lived before we could carry the Internet in our pocket, before hydroponics. They pre-dated the developing maturity of the human
Charles Darwin
"When we close ourselves off from the subtle world of life force that defines biodynamics, we lose the ability to understand the anomalies we see in Newtonian physics or scientific “laws”." ability to consciously compensate for our overpopulation. In point of fact, this is the only way we can sustain ourselves, but it is not Darwinian evolution. Put it this way, hydroponics is not Darwinian evolution. We have recalibrated the balance of biological evolution by way of a developmental system that can best be described as egolution. By recognizing that human mortality and our ability to reproduce are not bound by our biological fitness, we can develop language in order to bring the focus of awareness on the phenomenon that it is…again, the influence and power of an open mind and an idea. The ability of self reflection and the capability to manipulate our environment, rather than rely solely on instinct and be manipulated by our surroundings is something we generally take for granted in every day life. It is also something that forms literally everything around us, including our health. The entire industry of dentistry is a result of our imbalance with nature, as are most other medical professions for that matter. If an eagle had bad vision do you think it could be prescribed contacts? Would it be selected to reproduce? It was only thousands of years ago that we were hunter gatherers and the industrialized world has only been around for 100 years, yet we collectively live as if we live on the earth, not in it. This egolved perspective is a miraculous gift, allowing us the power of domestication, farming, rational thought and a creativity that allows us unprecedented opportunity and free will. But this freedom comes with a healthy responsibility, not only to the other organisms that share the earth and its resources, but to ourselves. We must begin by recognizing that we are failing in this responsibility of nourishing the earth and its inhabitants, including ourselves. Egolution allows both an unprecedented opportunity and at the same time a tempting danger of self absorption. Most human problems are born from our assumption that we have it all figured out, when the first thing we should acknowledge is that we don’t. Not because we are not smart, but because our organism or the technology created by our intellect is not equipped with the ability to recognize everything that we must figure out…call it faith. Not in a religious sense, but a spiritual sense, or a way that recognizes there is more to everything than what all humans can experience directly. Just MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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The Potential of Hydroponics because it works or won’t kill us doesn’t mean it is good enough. When we close ourselves off from the subtle world of life force that defines biodynamics, acupuncture, homeopathy or any such metaphysical craft, we lose the ability to understand the anomalies we see in Newtonian physics or scientific “laws,” and, in turn, experience the degeneration that manifests as CCD in bees, the collective general decline in human health, municipal water fluoridation, the emptiness of our food or any other aspect of modern society that is unexplainably degenerate. We may be living longer, but are we living stronger? The ego is a very powerful entity; it fosters the mindset that it is a human’s responsibility to feed plants and that somehow the only thing in an ecosystem worth considering is the plant itself. But we must recognize that when we interject our hand into a natural system we mess with the magic. For example,
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a study of phosphorous fertilizer on raspberries found that applying high levels of phosphorus caused the yield to double and concentrations of phosphorus to increase in the plants, but meanwhile levels of eight other minerals declined by 20 to 55 per cent! (Mother Earth News) It has become relatively common knowledge that the nutrient density of food has declined from historical levels and many assume that this loss of vitality can be replaced by supplements and multivitamins, but the mineral form fixed by a green plant cannot be replaced by a pill. When official USDA nutrient data shows that the calcium content of broccoli averaged 12.9 milligrams per gram of dry weight in 1950, but only 4.4 milligrams per gram of dry weight in 2003, this cannot be replaced with a calcium supplement. In fact, there is much evidence that the body cannot process direct calcium supplements in the first place and that they actually encourage
the development of many forms of arthritis. In developing his theories of biological transmutation Louis Kervran conducted experiments that serve to illustrate, among other things, how silica can be transmutated into calcium inside of living organisms. We should recognize this phenomenon already considering our lack of understanding in how the mineral
The Potential of Hydroponics make-up of worm castings is significantly enhanced relative to what is ingested or the bewildering way that Spanish moss fixes more phosphorous from the air than is available, for examples. Are we really what we eat? Can a hen really ingest enough calcium to produce an egg almost daily? The jury should still be out. Take for example the USDA’s idea that a plant only needs 13 to 15 elements when vegetables end up with more than 15, or the FDA’s assumption that table salt (NaCl) is not a poison when doctors are forced to compensate for its use. In both of these situations the activity is driven by human expediency, not human health. In other words, the process is more convenient and, more importantly unfortunately, more lucrative to a certain group of individuals than if we mandated our Extension Services to recommend people make free compost or derive healthy sea salt from the abundant ocean. Do you see the disconnect? It becomes even more maddening when we understand that NaCl is often times derived from sea water; upwards of 60 per cent of medical schools fail to reach minimum requirements on nutrition education, and Extension agents have never been farmers. My Extension Service has fake plants in the lobby. In fact, the potentials for egolution to spawn anthropocentricity have been realized in their extreme in our methods of food production. Farms are fertilized with sometimes less than five elements. Agricultural schools teach that in order to increase the yield on a farm a farmer needs to increase the amount of fertilizer and that the soil in every field is the same. The soil tests we receive from our Extension Services have no indication that there is anything alive involved in the situation and their advice recommends spreading dangerous toxins and industrial by-products. While most people would objectively say that these activities make little sense, this is how 95 per cent of the food produced in our country is grown. This is exacerbated further
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when 90 per cent of “food” that people buy is processed in some way. The tremendous imbalance and unhealth created by these mindless activities creates a burgeoning health care crisis and crop pest infestations that initiate the use of millions of pounds of pesticides and herbicides in our food supply. The pesticides that we are taught to use are so pervasive that the FDA actually allows concentrations of these dangerous chemicals in our food in the parts per million (ppm) range, which sounds low, until you realize that common pharmaceuticals such as Paxil or Cialis have active ingredients as low as the parts per billion (ppb) ranges. Plants are living beings; do you imagine that plants produced and tended to in this way have the life force necessary to sustain a healthy human population? It turns out that an apple is not just an apple.
"The quality of hydroponic produce tends to be much higher than the majority of the conventionally grown food found in super markets." Of course we have epitomized the phenomenon of controlling nature with the technology of hydroponics and controlled environment agriculture, but we must look at this powerful means of food production from a logical perspective. First of all, when utilizing the technology of hydroponics we are separating ourselves from natural systems, which is far different from the results of the toxic rescue chemistry used on conventional farms that destroys natural systems. In addition, most hydroponic farmers pay attention to the abuse of pesticides and use quasiorganic practices, such as integrated pest management (IPM) and other more sustainable practices not found on conventional farms. We can also generally be assured that there are no genetically modified (GMO) crops involved in hydroponic production. The fact that there is so much resistance to labeling GMO food in our grocery stores is a testament to how pervasive it already is in our food supply and a recognition that the rest of the world has spoken on the issue and would not want to purchase our foodstuff labeled GMO. Maybe the GMO guys missed the memo, but pollen drifts. Studies have shown contaminations as high as 60 per cent on samples of certified organic soybeans in California according to Food Chain Advisors. This is the very definition of Pandora’s Box and it will only become more relevant as we begin to figure out what we are actually doing in this grand sinister experiment. Hydroponics is a legitimate and controlled way to produce non-GMO food, meaning it can catch a premium (from people like me) on the commodity market going forward. Due to the vital responsibility of providing primary nutrition, the quality of hydroponic produce tends to be much higher than the majority of the conventionally grown food found in super markets. In fact, a lot of the produce already in supermarkets is grown hydroponically; it’s just not labeled as such. But we can do so much better! Much research needs to be done comparing the relative nutrient densities of crops grown in different methods of production, but the capacity for higher yields and nutrient density MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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The Potential of Hydroponics
is certainly there with hydroponics. Not only does it make more health sense to grow hydroponically, but it makes economic sense. Large mono-culture farms can generate as little as $20 per acre
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per year in revenue, while smaller farms and some hydroponic facilities can generate upwards of $10 to $15,000 per acre per year. But hydroponics is still playing to the lowest common denominator. Commercially, the hydroponic industry has fallen under the USDA’s spell regarding “primary nutrients,� or the idea that a plant only needs 13 to 15 elements to grow. A simple recognition that a tomato ends up with more than 15 elements in its tissue when it has matured should be all we need to tell us as much. Even in the hobby market there are very few truly COMPLETE nutrient formulations. Maybe the tomato is an alchemist as Kevran suggests, or maybe it is both an alchemist and at the same time being limited in its ability by the empty diets that we are providing for our plants? The true potentials of hydroponics are only realized when the human is focused
on enhancing a natural process. Using a fraction of the elements on the periodic table in an indoor artificial environment being inundated with negative energy from electrical equipment is not coming very close to the great outdoors is it? With an eye on nutrient density, we can utilize hydroponics as a means to create food with human health in mind. The potential of hydroponics represents what Malthus and Darwin were blind to; the possibility of human ingenuity augmenting nature in a way that sustains human imbalance in the light of biological evolution. Egolution got us into this mess, but at the same time it represents our ability to think our way out of all the problems that we have created for ourselves. MY All of Evan Fold's articles can be found by visiting www.maximumyield.com
GREEN THUMB
gardening
Getting to the Bottom of Going Green
by Meghan Carter
Going green could be considered one of the hottest trends these days, and it has been overexposed. But knowing that going green is a positive progression, I decided to meet with a couple of the founding members of the LA Green Consortium to learn more about what going green is all about. Green Resources What is Green? "[Green] is really just the ability to choose products that have less of an impact on the environment," Blayde Penza, one of the founding members of the LA Green Consortium, said. "It’s important to note that nothing is totally green; everything has some impact. Being green means making conscious, intelligent choices.” Why Go Green? A green lifestyle has many advantages, the most important being to preserve our planet. By doing so, we create a healthier environment. In addition, it's an important step to preserving our natural resources. How to Find Green Products While there are quite a few green gimmicks out there, most of the time it's fairly easy to find green products. Deborah Guyer of the LA Green Consortium suggests asking: • Where did the product come from? • How was the product made? • What is in the product? • How far did it travel to reach you? Easy Ways to Go Green 1. Recycle. 2. Ditch the bottled water habit and drink tap or filtered water instead. 3. Compost. 4. Switch out incandescent light bulbs for energy saving versions. 5. Take your own bags to the grocery store or mall. 6. Shop at antique, vintage and second hand stores whenever possible. 7. Avoid using pesticides on your lawn and garden. 8. Turn off lights in your home when they're not needed. My Takeaway The most important thing about going green is to remember that you don't have to be perfect. Going green is a lifestyle change that progresses over time. Focus on doing what you can now. And with the new perspective of, I no longer feel frustrated with the idea. Instead, I'm motivated to change certain habits in my life in order to preserve the environment and my health. MY 88
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Treehugfer.com Thegreenguide.com Thedailygreen.com IdealBite.com Plentymag.com NaturalHomeMagazine.com
The Plant Factory by Dr. Michael A. Nichols, Massey University, New Zealand
Introduction The Sydney to Amsterdam hyper-shuttle slows down to land at Schipol after its 90 minute orbital journey from Sydney. But passengers are no longer dazzled by the reflection from the large area of glasshouses in the westland, as these have been completely replaced by fully insulated buildings in which crops produce yields some five times those achieved at the start of the 21st century, without any reference to season. In fact, the production of greenhouse crops is now determined by proximity to market, rather than by climatic advantage, so the large areas of greenhouses in southern Spain (at Almeria) and in southern Turkey (at Antalya) have now been replaced by growing buildings close to the centers of population. The same level of crop yield is being grown at the South Pole (at the Scott-Amundsen Station) as is being grown in Singapore right on the equator. This development has been achieved by transferring greenhouse crop production from an environment very dependant on the weather to an environment totally insulated from outside influences.
General view of Plant Factory - Japan
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"Modern greenhouses in temperate climates are profligate users of energy as they have the double problem of excess heat removal during the summer and of heat retention during the winter." Historically greenhouses were developed in Europe in the 18th and 19th century as a means to protect chilling sensitive citrus trees from cold temperatures during the winter months. In the 1940s and 50s the importance of light (solar radiation), particularly in the winter months in temperate climates, became more fully appreciated, and the structure of greenhouses changed from a wooden structure with glass to essentially a glass cladding supported by an aluminum structure to allow maximum entry of solar radiation. Unfortunately, the characteristics that maximized radiation trapping in the winter also tend to allow significant loss of heat during the winter, while in summer months providing a significant heat load which must be removed during the high radiation conditions. To date, efforts to reduce this heat load have not been particularly successful. Therefore, modern greenhouses in temperate climates are profligate users of energy as they have the double problem of excess heat removal during the summer and of heat retention during the winter. By using a fully insulated “plant factory� it is possible to re-circulate carbon dioxide, water and nutrients within the system and thus reduce energy requirements. Existing artificial light sources produce too much radiant heat, but light emitting diodes (LEDs) may provide a possible solution because of their low radiant heat production characteristics. Using LEDs and a hydroponics crop production system, air can be re-circulated, and any excess heat and water vapor removed. The only major products leaving the closed circuit system will be the marketable crop. The carbon and water components of this may well be partially supplied by the respiration of the workers in the crop. The energy source for the lights may come from solar panels on the roof of the building, or from the national power grid. Electrical energy can be efficiently converted into photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) and into plant material. Many plants are capable of photosynthesizing for up to 24 hours per day and the marketable yield managed by the spectral balance. The level of CO2 in the house could be up to 2500 ppm so it is postulated that yield of up to four times best current commercial yields could be achieved, anywhere in the world.
The Plant Environment Photosynthesis With the exception of mushrooms and chicory, all greenhouse crops require light for photosynthesis. Much of solar radiation (98 per cent) is not used for photosynthesis and within the visible spectrum there are just two peaks for MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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The Plant Factory photosynthesis. These are at the blue end of the spectrum (450 λ) and the red end of the spectrum (680-700 λ). This is not to say that other wavelengths in the spectrum may not play essential roles in plant growth and development, only that these two energy bands are the main sources of light energy converted into chemical energy by photosynthesis. Artificial lights have been used to grow plants in controlled climate research facilities since the concept of the phytotron was developed by Went some 80 years ago, but all of these facilities have one major problem - even the most efficient light sources produce a large quantity of radiant heat, which must be dissipated. At the New Zealand National Climate Laboratory in Palmerston North this is done by separating the light loft from the plant chamber by a two inch deep water film. Furthermore, the light sources used (discharge tubes) are very broad spectrum.
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In recent years light emitting diodes (LEDs) have been developed for a range of industrial uses, and these monochromatic light sources are very reliable and produce a negligible radiant heat component (i.e. they produce “cold light”). They do, however, produce sensible heat which must be dissipated. Preliminary studies (Goins et. al, 1997), (Jao and Fang, 2002) suggest that they have considerable potential for growing crop plants in controlled environments. Costs will decrease as production runs increase; therefore, I see no reason to discard the potential of LEDs simply on the basis of current costs. A good example of how technology can reduce costs is the reduction in price of RAM for computers over the past 40 years. We know that plants exhibit a very large response to enhanced levels of CO2 in the atmosphere, and to the precise control of both the aerial and the subterranean temperature.
The Plant Factory The “Closed Circuit” Greenhouse Although growing rooms have been developed using artificial lights, none of these have been totally closed circuit rooms because of the requirement to remove the excessive radiant heat generated by the lights. Using LEDs as the primary photosynthetic energy source, the heat load in the system is substantially reduced, and it now becomes feasible to think in terms of a closed circuit re-circulating system. This immediately makes it possible to increase the level of CO2 in the atmosphere to 2000 - 3000 ppm, with a clearly enhanced level of photosynthesis. Although, more research is still needed here to evaluate the impact of such elevated CO2 levels on plant growth and productivity. As the plants can now be grown in a fully insulated light proof growing room the heat load is minimal, and it now becomes possible to control the air temperature, humidity and CO2
"For fruiting crops like tomatoes the only carbon being removed from the greenhouse will be in the fruit." levels much more precisely than in a standard greenhouse. Another advantage of using artificial light is that the day length can be controlled and extended (up to 24 hours for some crops), and certainly for most crops for in excess of 20 hours. Therefore, not only will the net daily photosynthesis be nearly doubled but maintenance respiration losses reduced. It will be interesting to determine whether it is possible to separate out photosynthetic radiation from phytochrome modifying radiation, and thus possibly continue active photosysnthesis when the plants are responding to short days, and consider that it is in fact night. It does not appear impossible to use red and blue light for photosynthesis, which does not include any of the phytochrome sensitive wave lengths.
The Sustainable Greenhouse Carbon Balance It is desirable to ensure that the greenhouse is as sustainable as possible and it should be possible to virtually eliminate the need for supplementary CO2 by converting any waste plant material (old leaves stems and roots) in a bio-digester into carbon dioxide and minerals. The CO2 can then be added to the greenhouse atmosphere as required. For fruiting crops like tomatoes the only carbon being removed from the greenhouse will be in the fruit, and this may well be replaced almost entirely by the carbon dioxide respired by the people working in the “biosphere” growing and harvesting the crop. Water Balance Fresh water will be the resource over which many arguments will occur in the 21st century and, therefore, water use efficiency for crop production will be 94
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very important. In fact water may be the new oil. In a closed circuit (plant factory) system all the water lost by the crop through transpiration will be condensed as “pure water” when it is removed by the air conditioning system used to control temperature and humidity. Not only will the hydroponic system be provided with a supply of pure water, but the only additional water requirements for the crop will be that in the crop which is harvested and removed from the system. Energy In the long term it is unlikely that non-renewable hydrocarbon sources of energy will be available, and the major source of energy will come from solar power. Solar cells provide free electricity when the sun shines, and cause no pollution. Currently the cost per unit of electricity is too high, but the vision is for the development of cheap plastic
solar cells, which can convert up to 50 per cent of solar energy into electricity. Thus, the full solar spectrum is converted into electricity, and this electricity is then used to produce radiation only at the two specific wavelengths that are used in photosynthesis, namely 450λ and 780-800λ. Equally important, however, is to develop a cheap method of storing this solar energy derived electricity. The favored system will be to produce hydrogen gas (by electrolysis) from the electricity, and to store this under pressure to ensure that energy is available for a full 24 hours, and also during the winter months. Fuel cells are already developed to combine hydrogen with oxygen to produce electricity, so this part of the technology is not new. The key to this process is a cheap source of energy. The other source of renewable energy is wind, and there is a steadily growing source of electricity from a number of wind farms worldwide.
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The Plant Factory Potential Production Levels It is postulated that developing the closed circuit sustainable greenhouse should result not only in a considerable yield increase of fruit and vegetable crops such as tomatoes, cucumbers, melons and sweet peppers, but a reduction of seasonal gluts and shortages, and the opportunity to produce crops at any times of the year in any quality and quantity. Let us assume that in greenhouses with a high degree of environmental control, tomatoes produce 60 kilograms per three square feet every year. If the crop is planted in the northern hemisphere in early January and removed in late December the harvest period is likely to be of about eight to nine months duration. During this time it experiences a wide range of environmental conditions, and even assuming excellent control of temperature and humidity, we know that from planting until mid March, and from mid September until crop removal that the day length will be less than 12 hours and that the level of solar radiation will be well below optimum. During this period growers often supplement the CO2 levels in the greenhouse up to say 1000 ppm, because the ventilators can be kept are closed. However, photosynthesis will be far lower than potential due to inadequate radiation levels. During the remainder of the year, although radiation levels will be more than adequate, the heat load within the greenhouse means that the ventilators must be kept open. Thus, although CO2 is commonly used in the summer months, the CO2 levels within the house are generally well below 400ppm due to the need to ventilate. We can anticipate a marked increase in yield be using a consistent CO2 level of 1000 ppm, and we would suggest that at 2500 to 3000 ppm we could well treble yield. If we consider that potential advantages of running the “house� at close to a 24 hour day, we have the potential to double yield. 96
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Thus, the 60 kilogram per three square foot per year has become 180 kilograms from the supplementary use of high levels of CO2. If we double the yield by running the crop as close to a 24 hour day as possible, then we might anticipate yield as much as 360 kilograms. If we incorporate the technique of continuous cropping, which suggests a yield increase of some 30 per cent per year, it is apparent that yields of 500 kilograms might not be out of the question in the future. One other point that must be made is that LEDs do not have to be over the crop, but they may even be suspended throughout the crop, in which case lower canopy leaves may receive higher or similar levels of PAR as the top of the plant in conventional situations. This could have real advantages as the crops would have a further enhanced photosynthetic output. Of course we must not disregard the requirement for other wavelengths of radiation to ensure appropriate plant growth and development. For instance the red/far red phytochrome response impacts on many aspects of plant growth. Furthermore, if bumblebees are being used for pollination there will be a need for an ultraviolet light source, and of course the people working within the crop will also need some visible light. Using monochromatic light could have major implications in the control of pests and diseases, but this is a very new area of development.
Robotics Labor is one of the major components in greenhouse crop production, and yet greenhouses offer tremendous opportunities for using robots to undertake many of the tedious and repetitive tasks essential to growing crops. Tasks such as de-leafing and delateralling and training will eventually be undertaken by machines, and human input into crop production will steadily and inevitable be reduced. It is even possible that in the future decisions on harvesting may not only be made on appearance, but also on taste, by making a brix estimate of the fruit (using NIR equipment) as a part of the robotic harvesting system.
The Plant Factory Food Miles Producing crops in the vicinity of where they are to be consumed on a year round basis will have a major influence on food miles. No longer will out of season produce be air freighted round for the world. The food will be fresher, and long term post harvest will no longer be necessary. Smaller Farm Footprint With the inevitable increase in the world’s population, more and more land will be required for housing and for food production. Thus, less and less recreational (natural) space will be available. The plant factory does not rely on a single layer of crops, and one approach may be to build plant factories as high rise buildings. At one stage the Singapore Government was considering using old high rise buildings as the basis for developing plant factories. There is no reason why plant factories can not be many stories high, and with many layers of crops in each story. One New Zealand company believes that their total salad production, which currently covers some 200 hectare of field facilities, could be grown in a one hectare plant factory because of a far higher productivity, and no seasonal variations.
Conclusions There would appear to be excellent potential to develop sustainable environmentally controlled fully insulated growing buildings to enable high value horticultural crops to be produced from the pole to the equator. Anticipated yields might be three to five times current yields in good temperate greenhouses, and production costs if they could produce a similar yield, might be much lower than current production costs from standard greenhouses. An added advantage would be the lack of any seasonal trend in both costs and productivity.Therefore, from both a national and an international viewpoint resources would be used more efficiently. As the world’s population continues to increase, then productivity per hectare has to increase, and this will only be achieved by major changes in philosophy. To make the world a nice place in which to live, it is essential not to remove too much of the natural environment, and this means that agriculture should not expand much further into the deserts, MY and forest. Intensification of production will be the key. References: Goins, G. D., N. C. Yorio, M. M. Sanwo & C. S. Brown (1997) “Photomorphogenesis, photosynthesis, and seed yield of wheat plants grown under red-light emitting diodes (LED’s) with and without supplemental blue lighting”. Journal of Experimental Botany 48, 1407-13. Jao, R.C. & Fang, W. (2002) “Development of a flexible lighting system for plant related research using super bright red and blue light emitting diodes”. Acta Hort, 578, 133-139. www.maximumyield.com has 10+ years of articles on greenhouse growing and other modern methods to help you grow your best.
Seaweed A Precious Material for Plant Nutrition
by Luis Bartolo
Seaweed has been harvested for food, fertilizer and medicine for thousands of years. History books record that the Chinese used seaweed for medicinal purposes as early as 3000 B.C. The Greeks for example used seaweed as animal food as early as the first century B.C. One translated text written in 46 B.C states: "The Greeks collected seaweed from the shore and having washed it in fresh water, gave it to their cattle." Today China and Japan are the biggest consumers of seaweed worldwide, with China harvesting 500 million tons a year for food use alone.
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Seaweed has been as a source of organic material to add to soil or soilless cultivation. It is only during the latter half of the last century that techniques were developed to fully understand the physiological responses which seaweed clearly produces. Parallel to laboratory and industrial studies to characterize and understand seaweed, techniques were developed to extract and concentrate active ingredients used to influence the plant physiology. So the use of seaweed in agriculture has moved from using a simple dried product, which was harvested by hand and spread on the soil, to distribution of so called seaweed derived products manufactured into small dried flakes, suspensions or solutions containing active ingredients produced from the seaweed raw material.
But what is seaweed exactly? In the classification of all living things, seaweed is classified within the ‘plant’ group, although they are apparently a little behind in evolutionary terms compared with the more familiar plants seen every day. Seaweed may belong to one of several groups of multicellular algae: the red algae, green algae and brown algae. As these three groups are not thought to have a common multicellular ancestor, the seaweeds are a paraphyletic group. In addition, some tuft-forming blue green algae (Cyan bacteria) are sometimes considered as seaweeds. "Seaweed" is a colloquial term and lacks a formal definition. Botanists refer to these broad groups as Phaeophyceae, Rhodophyceae and Chlorophyceae, respectively. Brown seaweeds are usually large, and range from the giant kelp that is often 65 feet long, to thick, leather-like seaweeds from six to 13 feet long, to smaller species 11 to 23 inches long. Red seaweeds are usually smaller, generally ranging from a few inches to about three feet in length; however, red seaweeds are not always red. They are sometimes purple, even brownish red, but they are still classified by botanists as Rhodophyceae because of other characteristics. Green seaweeds are also small, with a similar size range to the red seaweeds. Seaweed contains all known trace elements. These are present in a form that is acceptable and available to plants. Trace elements can be made available to plants by chelating - that is, by combining the mineral atom with organic molecules.
Effect of Seaweed Research shows that high quality seaweed extracts can have a five-principle effect on plant growth. All of them remove or reduce the influence of a number of growth constraints, with the result that treated plants function better, and produce higher yields and better quality crops. Seaweed supplies all trace elements required for plant growth across the entire spectrum. Seaweed and seaweed products also exert some form of biological control over a number of common plant diseases such as pythium. Soil fungi and bacteria are known to produce natural antibiotics which hold down the population of plant pathogens, and when these antibiotics are produced in sufficient quantities, they enter the plant and help it to resist disease. The production of such antibiotics is increased in soil high in organic matter, and it may be that seaweed still further encourages this process. Seaweed also acts as a soil conditioner. It has the ability to transform light and sandy soils into denser mediums by creating organic polymars which bind the soil particles together. This creates better structure and also assists in water retention.
Immune system: A regular application to the foliage of plants induces Localised Acquired Resistance (LAR) against a range of fungi, bacteria and viruses. There are indications that this effect may also be systemic. Applications also improve the plant's ability to withstand certain levels of environmental stresses and reduce the attacks and flare-ups of sap-sucking insect pests on the plants. As well as resistance to frost through this method, a localised resistance to heat stress can also be utilized by the plant through the application of seaweed. The plant’s cells respond to the seaweeds nature of existing in deep cold, helping the plant to cool down.
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Seaweed: A Precious Material for Plant Nutrition
"Applied to plants that can cold acclimatize, seaweed extract initiates or speeds up the acclimatization process even when the plant is not subjected to a cold stress." Chlorophyll: Foliar application of seaweed extracts will result in greater maintenance of chlorophyll, leading to greener plants. This is in part due to a complex family of different betaines in the seaweed extract, which help reduce natural damage to the photosynthetic process. Research has shown that application through foliar sprays and watered into the growing medium has the same effect on enhanced chlorophyll, and in most cases produced actual higher levels of chlorophyll in the plants.
Microbes: Specific carbohydrates in seaweed extracts serve as a source of food for beneficial and benign soil bacteria, resulting in a large increase in microbe numbers. These microbes produce plant growth stimulating compounds that encourage root growth and a significantly larger root mass. The increased bacterial population can also both physically exclude and compete with potential plant pathogenic soil fungi. Research has proven that seaweed contains qualities that make plants more resistant to insect and fungal disease. The activation of the natural microbial structure of the soil or medium in combination with all trace elements makes the plant stronger and better able to deal with attacks. The carbohydrates in seaweed and seaweed products work in natural combination with the iron, cobalt, copper, manganese, zinc and other trace elements. That is why these trace elements in seaweed and seaweed products do not settle out, even in alkaline soils, but remain available to plants which need them at all times.
Nematodes: The complex range of compounds found within seaweed extracts can help reduce nematode damage. This includes a reduction in hatch and a disorientation or simple 'burn-out' of immature nematodes (J2s), minimizing root penetration.
Frost: Applied to plants that can cold acclimatize, seaweed extract initiates or speeds up the acclimatization process even when the plant is not subjected to a cold stress. This allows plants to tolerate greater levels of cold, reducing the amount of damage. As you can see seaweed is one of the unique organic compounds that can be used in agriculture in many different ways. Beside the immune system the usage of seaweed has a lot of benefits: • beneficial for the environment • does not harm birds or any other animals • increases root depth and branching • fortifies the plant’s natural defenses • increases plant’s nutrient absorption capacities • improves color/quality of vegetables, ornamentals or lawn • breaks down large organic molecules into easier to absorb subunits MY Learn more about natural nutritional alternatives including seaweed at www.maximumyield.com under our article archive.
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TIPS &
6
tricks
Top Six Greenhouse Gardening Tips In most ways greenhouse gardening is like regular gardening except for a few things.You have the accountability to keep check on the environment for the plants growing in the greenhouse but the fundamental skills required are the same. You will have to give more time to greenhouse gardening in comparison to the regular from of gardening. Six important tips for greenhouse gardening have been suggested to help an amateur greenhouse gardener.
1 2 3 4 5 6
by Gary Pearson
1. Plotting your greenhouse gardening location is much like plotting the location of your normal garden. Make sure that there is maximum light and minimum traffic. If your greenhouse is one that will be used throughout the winter, you will want to plot your greenhouse gardening for the winter light. 2. You should make sure that you have enough room to do your greenhouse gardening. Do not fill your greenhouse to the brim with potted plants and seeds. Make sure that you have enough room to move around and work on your greenhouse gardening. 3. Greenhouse gardening is largely different from regular gardening in that you have to monitor and control the environment. To do this properly you will need to install a thermometer near the middle of your greenhouse. If temperatures get too high for your plants to be healthy you will need to ventilate the greenhouse to cool things down for your greenhouse gardening. 4. Greenhouse gardening requires the same soil as typical gardening. However, your plants will not need as much watering as they would outside. This is because the greenhouse holds moisture in the air, and the soil does not dry out as quickly. Only do your greenhouse gardening and watering when the soil is dry. 5. It is also important to sterilize your greenhouse. It is a preventive as moulds tend to develop on the greenhouse walls. It is also essential to clean the greenhouse on a regular basis because humidity and heat give impetus to the growth of moulds. 6. The water which is given to the plants should be at room temperature as your plants inside can die due to the shock of very cold water. Generally there is chlorine in tap water so you should keep the water for a day for it to disperse before MY watering green house plants.
About the Author:
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Gary Pearson is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
Feed
Circuits Material Selection Avoid corrosion problems associated with metal. Plastic components are generally cheaper, more flexible and readily available and last longer. Pipes: Flexible plastic tubing (e.g. polypropylene) is usually appropriate for all situations and reduces the need for junctions. Its cheapness provides the option of discarding it once it becomes internally contaminated. Where junctions are required, push fit fittings (barbed) are common (figure one). These are quick and easy to install. At high pressures, however, they are prone to leaks and require securing with clamps. Rigid plastic pipes, like PVC, can be preferable for the ‘primary’ circuit. However, the white variety is not opaque and inside walls are prone to algal growth. These generally require glued junctions, and although permanent, are resistant to leaks. Note: rigid plastics are relatively brittle and, therefore, inappropriate for high traffic areas. a:
b:
c:
d:
Figure 1: Feed circuits are simple to construct using flexible plastic tubing and push-fit fittings (tee's, 180° and elbows).
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Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
by Bob Taylor : Chief Chemist of Flairform
A well designed feed circuit will ensure all roots are fed and flushed, and not interrupted by blockages. Aim to make the feed circuit tidy and uncomplicated.To minimize the risk of leaks and blockages avoid junctions and restrictive feed outlets (e.g. drippers) and always use filters.
Maximizing Flow Rate Pipe diameter: Use large diameter pipes. Do not underestimate the degree to which small diameter pipes reduce flow rates, especially as the length of the pipe increases. Small diameter pipes are also more prone to blockages from salt buildup, dirt, algae, plant matter, etc. Elbows (or tees): These also reduce flow rate (and increase the risk of blockages). In many situations, these can be avoided by using ‘flexible’ instead of ‘rigid’ pipes.
Equilibrating Outlet Flow Rates To achieve equal flow rates from multiple outlets (often necessary for run-to-waste systems), use the following principles: 1. Use maximum diameter piping for the primary circuit. 2. Pipes joining the primary circuit to the feed outlets must be of equal length and diameter. However, using wider pipe will reduce the need for being consistent with this requirement. Outlets (drippers, etc) must be of equal type/specification. Ensure these components are maintained to avoid partial blockages (see following section). 3. If “pressure compensating” drippers are feasible, these will yield a preset flow rate (see “Feed Outlets”).
Feed Outlets (Drippers, Jets, etc.)
a:
b:
Figure 2a: This pressure compensating dripper delivers exactly one gallon per hour provided the delivery pressure is 100-400kPa. Figure 2b: This dripper can be dismantled for cleaning.
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
Choice of feed outlet is crucial for making sure all roots are adequately fed. The choice will depend upon system type, system volume and flow rate requirement. 1. Bare hose end: Blockages are least likely. This is the preferable method for NFT, or any system where the outlet flow does not need to be sprayed (dispersed) or tightly regulated. Flow rate is adjustable via an in-line tap. 2. Flood and Drain: Specific valves are required for flood and drain systems. 3. Drippers (typically used for run-to-waste): + “Pressure compensating” drippers deliver a preset flow rate (figure two ‘a’). These are ideal for run-to-waste systems for obtaining a specific percentage run-off. + “Adjustable” drippers permit the flow rate to be adjusted. However, because these are non pressure compensating, their output will vary with delivery pressure.
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Feed Circuits "Routine 'dumping' and 'flushing' will help prevent the build-up of solids (insoluble salts, algae, plant debris)." a:
b:
c: Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
NOTE: Drippers are prone to blocking so make sure they can be dismantled for routine cleaning (figure two ‘b’). 4. Sprayers/Jets: (Figure three) Use these when top-feeding to achieve an even distribution of nutrient over the surface of pots (figure four). However, note they are prone to blockages, and will increase evaporation losses and salt build-up.
b:
Feed Circuit Blockages • The feed circuit, especially restrictive outlets (drippers), can become blocked with salt build-up, dirt, algae, root growth, medium, etc. To minimize this problem: • Employ a filter on inlet to the nutrient pump. Also, in recirculating systems install a filter in the return line (figure five). • Position plants to avoid roots being drawn into drain outlets. • Maintain nutrient pH below 6.5 to help prevent precipitation.
Figure 4: Problems with top-feeding. a: Top fed nutrient moves mainly downwards causing roots off to the side to be unfed and unflushed. Also, if the medium's density is irregular, the nutrient will tend to 'channel' through zones of lower density. This is most evident with coarse media e.g. expanded clay. b: This problem can be reduced by delivering nutrient at multiple points via multiple outlets and/or sprayers, or by using a finer media e.g. perlite, rockwool, cocofibre (see figure c:).
• Routinely disinfect the return line / drain nutrient solution to prevent the build-up of algae/slimes. • Ensure nutrients are fully dissolved. • Use stakes to secure outlets above and away from medium and roots to prevent them from becoming blocked. • Where drippers or sprayers are used, allocate at least two outlets per plant and inspect and clean regularly. Figure 5: Nutrient Reservoir Placement of filters on the pump • Use a regular maintenance and return line (re-circulating schedule. Routine 'dumping' systems) will help prevent feed circuit blockages. and 'flushing' will help prevent the build-up of solids (insoluble salts, algae, plant debris). Over the long-term, it is sometimes useful to perform a chemical flush to remove insoluble precipitates (figure six).
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
c:
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
d: Figure 3: Sprayers are available in a: many forms. a: Adjustable rate with 360° coverage; b: 'Waterring' provises multiple outlets; c: Fixed flow rate sprayer with 90° coverage; d: Adjustable rate with 360° coverage and stake.
Figure 6: During post harvest clean-up, an acid wash is effective for removing salt buildup from plumbing.
Copyright @2008 www.flairform.com
MY You will find all of by Bob Taylor's articles online at www.maximumyield.com under our author archive
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by Roland Evans of Organic Bountea
sun and soil: Natural Greenhouse growing Clothe Your Soil with Cover Crops
Mustard field
I ask a lot from my soil. The very same patch of soil may grow collards, lettuce, beans and turnips – all within one year. To keep the soil healthy and fertile, I have a simple regimen: homemade compost, a compost tea system and cover crops. Cover crops, or green manures, are a crucial element of sustainable organic cultivation - not only for soil renovation, protection and nourishment but also to control weeds, disease and pests.
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Hairy vetch escaped into the garden.
I always keep a few bags of cover crop seeds on hand: tiny grains of clover and alfalfa - black triangular buckwheat - the familiar cereals, barley and rye. Whenever I create a new garden bed, or a patch of soil looks depleted and tired, I reach for particular crops. If I plan to grow the same vegetable in the same place (not a recommended practice), a quick seeding of green manure between the two plantings creates a kind of speedy crop rotation, adding nutrients and reducing diseases. My longtime favorites are barley and white clover planted together very early in the spring. After I turn the crop over in late April, the soil will sparkle with new life and texture. In the hot summer months, a fast growing crop of buckwheat is useful to supplement soil phosphorus. As fall approaches, my fallow garden beds are sown with alfalfa and rye to clothe the soil during winter. There is a cover crop for every season and use. Growing Cover Crops Crops come in three main types: leafy fast growing grasses - oats, rye, barley and various types of wheat; nitrogen-fixing legumes such as alfalfa, clover, vetches, peas and beans; and finally a few specialist crops such as buckwheat and mustard. The type you decide to sow depends on the season of planting, your particular soil conditions, and what you want to achieve. The table featured in this article offers a short sample of the most easily available cover crops with their particular benefits and the conditions they prefer. Most are fairly hardy and easy to cultivate even in poor soils. When planting, I add a little compost and treat the soil and seedlings with compost tea. I sow seeds fairly thickly, water well and protect them with a floating row cover in the early spring or shade in the heat of summer. Cereals grow faster than legumes, so if you use a mix such as oats and clover or wheat and peas, keep the grasses cut at around six inches high so the legumes have light and space to develop. Do not let the crops grow too big before you turn them in. Rye, with its deep roots, can be very hard to dig if you let it get out of hand. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Clothe Your Soil With Cover Crops Cover Crop Table
Season to Sow
Cover Crop
Conditions
Benefits
Early spring or fall
Oats
Prefers clay loam and cool moist weather
Weed-reducing - easy tilling - lots of bulk
Early spring or late fall
Field Peas
Intolerant of wet soils withstands frost but not heat
Fixes nitrogen - lots of bulk - easy to kill - decomposes rapidly - grows well with cereals
Early spring
Mustard
Very adaptable
Reduces root nematodes and fungal disease - good for potatoes
Early spring or late summer
Barley
Prefers alkali soil cold tolerant
Weed-reducing - fast growing - lots of bulk - shallow roots
Spring or late summer
Alfalfa
Prefers well drained alkali soils
Fixes nitrogen - good for fallow ground some varieties are perennial
Spring or late summer
Red Clover
Tolerates acidic poorly drained soil - intolerant of heat
Fixes nitrogen - attacts pollinators - hardy
Anytime
White Clover
Late spring and summer
Buckwheat
Tolerates drought, shade and heat Tolerates heat but not frost - adabtable to most soil
Spring or fall
Hairy Wetch
Very Tolerant - hard to eradicate if goes to seed
Fixes nitrogen - loosens compacted soil
Fall
Winter Rye
Prefers well-drained soil - adaptable
Protects soil in winter - deep roots - reduces weeds
Fixes nitrogen - good living mulch - very hardy Accumulates phosphorus - fast growing
One important caution: never let a cover crop go to seed. Many years ago, I prepared a new flowerbed with a planting of hairy vetch, and let it get away from me. Now each spring I find straggling tendrils with pretty purple bells interwoven with my perennials. That is not so bad at my altitude but vetch and other crops can become irrepressible weeds in more temperate zones. Keep on top of your crops! When you are ready to turn the crop into the ground, cut it all down and mash up the leaves with a strimmer or something similar. Use a shallow fork to turn over the soil, covering up any green shoots and leaving the roots on the surface. Lightly break up the soil and spread with compost or organic mulch. After 10 days to three weeks, the crop will have decomposed and the bed is ready to replant. "Mycorrhizae link into the root fibers and send out masses of hyphae, tiny filaments that transport nutrients and create the sticky carbon glomalin that gives soil its texture."
Barley
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Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing - Clothe Your Soil With Cover Crops
White clover
Weed and Pest Control If a portion of the garden will not be used for a few months, a clothing of greenery is a perfect way to protect the soil; it also helps control or even eradicate weeds. Fast growing cereals or buckwheat crowd out other plants. Rye that is cut and left to lie on the ground, releases a weed-suppressing chemical. Once a crop is turned into the soil, any weed seeds will quickly germinate. The bare soil should be watered and then lightly hoed as the weeds grow. Replanting another crop chokes out any further growth and after a couple of similar cycles, the soil will be free of annoying seeds. A low growing crop such as clover can be used as a living mulch. Inter-planted with fruits and vegetables such as asparagus, tomatoes or grape vines, these legumes reduce weeding, retain moisture and provide nitrogen. An added benefit is that clover or similar plants attract pollinating insects to your fruit flowers. Recent research on the use of mustard as a cover crop shows that it not only provides plenty of organic matter, it also helps control root diseases and soil borne pests. It seems that the powerful organic chemicals in mustard essentially fumigate the soil when it is incorporated. If you are tormented by root-gnawing nematodes, a mustard crop may be just what you need. Mustard is particularly useful if you are preparing ground for potatoes. Cover Crops and Soil Life Cover crops have a powerful effect on soil life. The roots of the legume family attract and nurture Rhizobium bacteria that form nodules on the plant roots. These bacteria fix and hold nitrogen from the atmosphere. When the cover crop is incorporated into the soil, that nitrogen becomes available for the next crop in line. Crops of the grass family quickly create a network of fine roots that penetrate deep into the subsoil drawing up essential minerals. These roots also attract and feed the bacterial soil life with minute drops of sap. Mycorrhizae link into the root fibers and send out masses of hyphae, tiny filaments that transport nutrients and create the sticky carbon glomalin that gives soil its texture.
Mustard
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White clover as as living mulch.
When the cover crop is incorporated, sugars and nitrogen in the leaves boost bacterial activity to a high level. Soil fungi begin breaking down the fibrous cellulose into life enhancing humus. Worms and other members of the soil food web clean up the larger debris. The soil becomes a hive of activity. This is not the best time to plant seeds for your next crop. Allow a little time for all the hustle and bustle to settle down. After a few weeks, the organic matter and humus stabilizes and masses of nutrients become available to your new plants. It is as if you just treated the soil with a healthy dose of premium compost – without the heavy lifting and carrying. If you are not yet using cover crops, you are missing out on one of the most important methods of sustaining soil fertility and supporting plant health. Now is always a good time to start planning which cover crop to plant next. In this way you can continue to expand and enhance your existing program of organic soil management. MY Resources Lee Reich: Weedless Gardening Agricultural information: http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/covercrop.html Mustard information: http://grant-adams.wsu.edu/agriculture/covercrops/pubs/eb1952e.pdf
All of Roland Evans Sun and Soil: Natural Greenhouse Growing columns can be found at www.maximumyield.com
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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Drying and Preserving
Herbs
Throughout history many cultures have utilized herb gardens for medicinal and culinary purposes. The tradition of preserving herbs dates back as early as the great pharaohs of Egypt and the first Chinese emperors. Archaeologists even found a small satchel containing dried medicinal herbs on the “Ice Mummy� recovered in the Italian Alps. Herb gardens are small and easy to tend to. This is leading to a resurgence of gardeners willing to grow, harvest and preserve their own herbs. Most of us prefer to consume herbs fresh, since the potency of the plant diminishes when it is dried for preservation. By drying the herbs, they become impervious to molds, mildews, disease and other problems. This also means that the herbs will be available for consumption or application during seasons when it is not available fresh.
Basil
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by Matt LeBannister
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
The only way to preserve herbs is to remove all moisture from the plant. There are three main methods for drying herbs effectively. Oven drying, frame drying and natural drying are the most common techniques. Each technique has its pros and cons and some are preferable to particular herbs. Which method is used depends on the individual grower, but the desired outcome is the same: to preserve and store the herbs for use at another time. The first method of herb preservation to be explored is oven drying. Oven drying takes about an hour and is the quickest method of drying. This artificial drying technique is more often used to dry herbs that contain a lot of moisture such as basil or mint. To properly oven dry your herbs place them uniformly on a baking tray. Make sure that the herbs are not touching each other. Cover the tray with tin foil leaving the corners uncovered to allow moisture to escape. Place the tray in an oven preheated to 150째F. Flip the herbs every 15 minutes until they are evenly dried. There are disadvantages to oven drying your herbs; for instance, they can be easily over-cooked or burnt. If this happens, the herbs retain zero per cent of their original potency, making them worthless. Furthermore, oven drying your herbs means they will retain less of their original potency than herbs dried naturally. When herbs are being preserved for medicinal purposes, this loss
"Oven drying your herbs means they will retain less of their original potency than herbs dried naturally."
Basil prepared for oven drying.
of potency might be a good reason to try one of the following two drying techniques. The next two herb drying techniques are considered natural drying because they each use a different method to dry the herbs in the open air. The first method is quite easy, because
Drying and Preserving Herbs this is available, drying in the dark can be safe and effective. Drying culinary herbs in the dark can preserve the taste and smells, whereas drying the herbs in direct sun can often alter the taste of some herbs. Similarly to hang drying, frame drying is another method that involves natural open-air, but it utilizes a different apparatus to dry herbs. Instead of hanging the plant upside down, the herbs should be spread evenly across the frame. In order to provide enough room so that the herbs do not touch each other, the frame should be at least three to four square feet. Line the bottom of Winter savory
it simply involves hanging the entire plant upside down and allowing the surrounding environment to remove the moisture from the herbs. An easy way to do this is to wrap an elastic band around the bottom of the plant. A paper clip can then have one end hooked into the elastic band and the other end can be used to hang the plant from a clothes hanger or string. Hanging the plant upside down allows essential oils to flow from the stems into the leaves or flowers that one wishes to keep. While easy, this method is the slowest process of drying herbs. This natural process is most often used on herbs that do not contain a
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"Drying culinary herbs in the dark can preserve the taste and smells, whereas drying the herbs in direct sun can often alter the taste of some herbs." significant amount of moisture, such as dill and rosemary. Some gardeners prefer to hang dry their herbs outside. If you choose to do this make sure that there is plenty of sun. Herbs that are dried outside will encounter such risks as exposure to mold and other pathogens. It is safer to dry herbs indoors in a room with a dehumidifier or a room with excellent airflow. If a room like
Oregano
Drying and Preserving Herbs
the frame with tinfoil, keeping the reflective side facing up. Once the herbs are placed uniformly inside the frame, the glass lid should be fixed in place. The frame should not be airtight, to allow the moisture to escape. Now the frame is ready to be placed outside in a sunny area. The sun will penetrate the glass and reach the herbs. The sun will also hit the reflective side of the tinfoil and the grass will keep the heat of the sun inside the frame, making it more effective at drying herbs than simply hanging them outdoors. The herbs should be flipped once a day to ensure that they dry evenly. The main advantage to using either of these natural open-air herb drying techniques is that there is no chance of overdrying or burning. Also, the final product will retain more of
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Winter savory hanging to dry.
its original potency that herbs dried in an oven. However, the disadvantage of these methods is that there is a risk of underdrying. This can allow mold to grow on the herbs, and ruin the final product as a result. These open-air drying techniques are, of course, slower than oven drying, for they can take one to six weeks to fully dry the herbs. Now that your herbs have been properly dried they need to be stored properly. The three most popular herb storage techniques are sealed plastic bags, plastic containers or glass mason jars. Sealed plastic bags, such as sandwich or snack bags, are good for short-term storage of dried herbs. Despite what some people believe, these plastic bags are not completely airtight. Herbs stored in sealed plastic bags for long periods of time can take on the smells of any herbs stored near them. For these reasons sealed plastic bags or not recommended for storing herbs except as a last resort. Plastic containers and glass mason jars are far superior to sealed plastic bags for storing your dried herb. Plastic containers are still slightly permeable to air, but far less than the bags. Since most herbs deplete in quality after one to two years, plastic containers are adequate for storing culinary herbs that will be used up relatively quickly, but such is not the case for medicinal herbs. Medicinal herbs are preserved best when they are stored in glass mason jars. Mason jars are airtight, so they will keep herbs potent much longer than sealed plastic bags or plastic containers. Medicinal herbs will stay potent for up to five years if they are kept in mason jars and stored in the freezer. Herbs are good for us and many are delicious. Herb gardens are springing up in backyards, balconies and indoor grow rooms. With the precious knowledge of how to dry and preserve herbs properly, there is no reason to ever go without those homegrown chives on your baked potato or the garden basil in your MY favorite pasta sauce.
References:
Hallowell, M. “Medicinal Herbs." Mother Earth News, April/May, 1992.
Matt LeBannister has dozens of articles published with Maximum Yield. View them all online at www.maximumyield.com under our author archive.
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Tranquility in
Hydro by Lee McCall
Cultivation of flora is an art, an amazing feat that we as humans have manipulated since the earliest days of time to provide a wealth of sustenance for the mind and body. Presently referred to as horticultural therapy, gardening practices are capable of stimulating mental activity responsible for triggering chemicals in the brain that effect mood and promote relaxation. To reach this level of consciousness in the world of indoor and year round gardening, dedication and precision must impact the desire to perfect individual skill and technique. Commitment will separate pros from “Joes� and exhibit the differences in overall quality and quantity, fueling the aspirations to learn and progress. The art of gardening utilizes technology as the canvas and life as the color palette. The following examples I provide display the exquisiteness and grandeur of simple techniques, capable of 122
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resulting beautiful productive yields and exceptional eye candy. Every individual who creates a garden indoors is fostering a living environment of organisms and playing God so to speak. Different variables will occur in every situation that inflicts different symptoms affecting overall outcome and production rates. Obviously the better quality of equipment outfitting the area will sustain a higher level of control influencing a wider array of preferable species indigenous to the copied environment produced inside. Sunrooms present excellent areas for creativity due to the natural light penetration without the harshness of outdoor environmental factors like weather and wildlife able to infiltrate the specimen. The ability to harness natural sunlight in conjunction with artificial lighting will produce spectacular conditions for optimal photosynthetic
production, so long as stability in growth is executed with precise action and performance. In turn, energy is saved in lighting expenditures overall, and efficiency is increased through production rates. Electronic ballasts provide optimal output for enhanced and sole supplementation offering the best efficiency over that of conventional core and coil technology; however, utilize what is readily available depending on your budget. I personally have taken a preference to full or enhanced spectrum metal halides that provide adequate amounts of warm and cool color ratios for substantial fruit, flower and vegetative development. The lumen output is lower than that of most high pressure sodium lamps; however, many options offer Kelvin temperatures that are closer in comparison to that of natural full spectrum sunlight. The end result is tighter spacing between internodes with less overall stretch throughout growth. Those who have the benefit of outfitting the perfect sunroom or greenhouse, keep in mind as the seasons change, the Kelvin of natural sunlight adjusts accordingly. Experiment with different options and availabilities of both high pressure sodium and metal halides to depict the best apparatus for each custom job. Light movers are exceptionally helpful in these situations as well providing supplemental light over an extended area. Avoid using light movers if the intended purpose is to cut lighting expense while maintaining consistent production with a higher volume
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Tranquility in Hydro
of plants.Yield and growth is affected during “shade” periods when lights are at opposite ends of their tracks breaking the solid penetration to the canopy over a designated portion of the garden. As opposed to using two lights over an area rather than one with a light mover, for mature growth cycles the more light that is available with desirable temperatures the more production is enhanced overall. Early vegetative growth and plants that do
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not require high concentrations of direct light will benefit most from light movers enabling the cultivar to cover twice the area of the light’s intended output. “Feng shui” of the area is also important to an extent to encourage relaxation and positive mental stimulation from a therapeutic standpoint. This doesn’t necessarily mean interior decoration for the grow room, but custom layout that will provide favorable conditions to house the operation. Tiled floors, custom dry-wall installation, matching reflectors if using more than one light, professional installment and sealed containment are all external factors that aid in the Feng shui of a grow room. Intertwine varietals that are rich in colors, texture and growth patterns to reveal superlative function and effect. For example, Zinnias are structurally dense varietals that provide excellent support with tremendous height for Morning Glory, Hummingbird Vine, and Passion Flower to condense, climb and cover. Plot a small patch of Columbines in between to provide excellent accent color, additional support and flower differentiation. The end result is fragrant, visually appealing and can be executed in a ground space of about four square feet with a homemade system. Hydroponic
applications provide the luxury of simplistic and clean operation, maximizing the efficiency of production to space ratios containing higher volumes of plants. Although it sounds far-fetched from the major aspects of general cultivation, adding eye-appealing structure and decoration to the surrounding area will boast the visual satisfaction. The sunroom in the pictures displays how an indoor sunroom is easily transformed to resemble a creative, colorful outdoor patio garden year round, only under the influence of unique hydroponics application with full environmental control. Transforming a room in the average home which escapes the individual to an oasis of life created by his or her own, stimulates the senses through smell, sight, taste and offers an extremely rewarding practice. Trial and error through experience will determine which crops are suitable for conjoined cultivation and which are not, meaning different species growing in the same systems, feeding off of the same nutrition allotment despite the differences in growth attributes. Experimentation will reveal many different hybrids and species are capable of growing in the same system and medium as long as adequate conditions are supplied to root zone for each individual crop; the environment is suited for the variety of specimens; and nutrition is monitored precisely throughout the duration of growth to avoid deficiency and overdose. For hydroponic experimentation, I recommend flood and drain systems that utilize trays instead of buckets. This provides excellent usage of given space with less hardware requirement and more options for plant positioning and different species contained within. Although smaller containers are preferred, large plants are still capable of excellent growth through persistent feedings and attention to the root zone. Guttered trays are also able to disperse run-off water better than bucket versions, which benefits hardware cleanliness and deters negative microbial
development resulting from stagnation. When conducting a flood and drain garden for visual appeal and dÊcor purposes only, maintain steady practices of removing dead vegetation and flowers, flushing containers from the top instead of flooding from below when needed, and select species that are similar in water consuming properties. If a particular crop prefers light feedings over that of heavy ones, customize media blends within the different containers to enrich aeration properties or moisture holding capabilities based on the plant’s desires. Flushing the plants once or twice a week from the tops of the containers will help keep reservoirs clean of debris and remove excess build-up from nutrition regiments. Enforce dense amounts of oxygen with the use of air stones to promote a vigorous rhizosphere with healthy microbial activity, if any is implemented with nutrition. Submersible pumps left on in the bottoms of the reservoirs will ensure a healthy emulsion and consistency without stagnation. Whether the intended route is to achieve substantial yields, quality, dÊcor or peace of mind, understanding tranquility in hydro will return superior results with less stress resulting from the physical labor during practice. Indoor cultivation in many ways is hard work on the mind and body, aside from the fact the intended outcome may never be assumed. Too many external factors exist that may affect or fluctuate the end result; the best plan of action is to monitor progress and critical thinking steps that promoted the original method or conclusion, enabling the cultivar(s) to track pertinent data and information. Referring back to the feng shui of the area, keeping things simple, clean and flowing in a smooth consistent order within the designated environment with minimal MY variables will improve stability around detrimental flux. Visit www.maximumyield.com for a variety of unique "feng shui" grow room layouts that will soothe and inspire you.
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Buying and Applying
Mycorrhizal Fungi by Donald Lester
There are many species of fungi, bacteria, viruses and protozoa commercially available for the biological control of insects, diseases and weeds. Some products offer mixtures of various organisms. This article will cover one particularly easy-touse type of fungi that helps control soil diseases and makes otherwise unavailable soil nutrients available to plants – this fungi is known as mycorrhizae. Mycorrhizal fungi are a group of fungi that live on and within plant roots in a symbiotic or mutually beneficial relationship. The fungus attaches itself to the plant root and then grows out into the soil with very fine “roots” or mycelium. These mycorrhizal root systems increase the absorbing area of plant roots 10 to 1,000 times thus greatly improving the ability of plants to utilize soil resources. In return the fungus receives finished product in the form of carbohydrates, proteins and sugars. Mycorrhizal fungi are able to absorb all of the 15 major macro and micro nutrients required for plant growth. Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the soil that dissolve hard to capture nutrients such as phosphorus. It does this so well that mycorrhizae do not perform well in phosphorus rich soils. This phenomenon is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non-mycorrhizal plants require higher levels of fertility to maintain their health. 126
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"Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful chemicals into the soil that dissolve hard to capture nutrients such as phosphorus."
Mycorrhizal on roots.
Mycorrhizal fungi close-up.
Moreover, this extended root system is very important for water uptake and storage. In non-irrigated conditions, plants inoculated with mycorrhizae are under far less drought stress compared to untreated plants. Over 95 per cent of crops not only respond positively to colonization by mycorrhizal fungi, but they may suffer in the absence of mycorrhizae (Kendra Baumgartner, USDA California). Mycorrhizal fungi in nature are lost due to soil disturbances such as mining, construction or erosion; strong acid or chemical treatments; pesticides, excessive heat, drought or flooding; and denial of oxygen or water by asphalt, concrete, soil compaction and roads. In indoor gardens mycorrhizae must be introduced into sterilized soils and maintained because of losses due to the use of strong sterilizers, waterlogged soils low in oxygen and excessive fertilization. Mycorrhizae work well within integrated pest management (IPM) programs and organic programs; are effective in resistance management; break down crop residue thus freeing up valuable nutrients for plants; and are nonburning and non-phytotoxic to plants. There are two main types of mycorrhizae: ecto and endo. Endomycorrhizal fungi, also known as AM (arbuscular mycorrhizae): This group of mycorrhizal fungi is important in non-woody plants, including many agricultural crops, grasses and turf. They are sometimes called vesicular-arbuscular mycorrhizae (VAM) due to specialized structures that the fungus creates. Although this type of mycorrhizae invades plant roots it does not harm the plant. Ectomycorrhizal fungi: This group of mycorrhizal fungi grows between root cells and forms a sheath or mantle around plant roots, but it does not actually invade the plant cells.They are important to many woody perennials, bushes, shrubs and trees. There is a great potential for the use of mycorrhizal fungi as inoculants especially in the production and protection of high-value greenhouse-grown crops or transplanted vegetable crops such as tomatoes and other bedding plants. If using mycorrhizae as a control rather than preventative it is best to treat infections early. If mycorrhizae are applied too late then MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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Buying and Applying Mycorrhizal Fungi the results will be disappointing. Mycorrhizae are not a miracle control, but with proper usage and realistic expectations you can have Mother Nature working for you. Below are some general guidelines for using mycorrhizae in various greenhouse and hydroponic environments. As with any product, strict adherence to the label instructions is necessary for optimum performance. Aeroponics Aeroponic systems are a more highly aerated environment than traditional hydroponics and have proven to be an excellent system for growing mycorrhizae without a physical substrate. This system allows the grower to actually see the fungi growing on root surfaces. Liquid formulations of mycorrhizae can be added to the nutrient solution and delivered through the misting system directly to the roots. Some filtering of the liquid before application may be required to prevent nozzle fouling. Transplanting into Containers Apply granules or liquid formulation directly into the planting hole making sure that the root ball has good contact with the mycorrhizae. Some products come in convenient biodegradable teabags or sachets as they are known in Europe that can be dropped into the planting hole making application quick and easy. As the plants grow maintenance applications can be applied as soil drenches. Bulk granular formulations can be placed in a sock or similar material and soaked for several hours to release the organisms and activate them. This liquid can then be used as a soil drench for maintenance applications as the season progresses. Mix with Growing Media Many commercial potting mixes already contain mycorrhizal fungi incorporated into them. However, bulk granules of mycorrhizae can be mixed in with the soil before transplanting or being applied to the soil surface after transplanting much like a granular fertilizer. Incorporation of mycorrhizal fungi is especially important in sterilized soils to regain a population of beneficial micro-organisms to out-compete pathogens. Bark, calcined clay, expanded clay and perlite provide good aeration. Peat and vermiculite hold more water and allow air to penetrate better than sand. Mycorrhizae are aerobic, meaning that they require oxygen. They can grow in anaerobic or reduced oxygen environments like rice, but their populations are greatly reduced in these environments. So it is best not to waterlog the media for too long. Bare Root Bare root plants can be dipped into solutions containing mycorrhizal fungi that have been pre-activated. Mycorrhizal fungi are compatible with most common commercial rooting powders and water-absorbent gels. The teabag formulations 128
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The teabag formulations.
"The use of molasses and other sugars as a mycorrhizal food source can stimulate pathogen development." can be soaked in water just like a regular teabag and the solution used for dipping. Granules can also be soaked in water for a few hours with the water being used as a base for a dipping solution as well. Starter Cubes There are basically four kinds of starter cubes: rockwool, oasis cubes, organo-cubes and peat pots. The most favored types are rockwool, organo-cubes and oasis cubes as they retain water well and also hold enough air so that the medium does not stay too wet. Preparing the starter cubes varies with the kind of starter cube you are using. Organo-Cubes come ready for use. The oasis and peat pot cubes should be pre-soaked with water that is adjusted to pH 6.0 - 6.5. The cubes need to be saturated and then allowed to drain. The cubes are now ready to use. Rockwool has a high pH and as a result must be treated differently. Rockwool cubes must be pre-soaked with water that is pH adjusted to 5.0. This low pH acid solution will balance the overall pH to a level that plants require. The cubes should be soaked for about 24 hours and then drained. They are then ready for use. Once the starter cubes are prepared you can plant the seed and apply mycorrhizal fungi. Gently cover the seed by packing some of the seed cube material from around the hole over the seed. Sand Culture Mycorrhizae, especially Glomus sp., do very well in sand culture systems through which recycled nutrient solution is passed several times a day (Ojala and Jarrell 1980). Simply inoculate the nutrient reservoir with mycorrhizae according to the label. Be careful in the use of strong compost teas or other green manure materials as food sources for mycorrhizae because the low pH of these materials can adversely affect mycorrhizae
Buying and Applying Mycorrhizal Fungi growth. Similarly, the use of molasses and other sugars as a mycorrhizal food source can stimulate pathogen development. Using humic acid as a carbon food source will help the mycorrhizae, and the soil-binding nature of humic acid will help build structure in the sand. Sawdust Bags Mycorrhizae can be incorporated into sawdust bags. The bag should be presoaked with nutrient solution 48 hours prior to setting the plants out in the bags. Transplant as usual with mycorrhizae pre-mixed in the sawdust or with mycorrhizae placed in the immediate vicinity of the root zone. Seeding Seeds can be put in direct contact with mycorrhizae at planting time. This ensures that the young roots are colonized early on for protection against water mold root rots like Pythium and Phytophthora. However, be sure that the mycorrhizae are compatible with any fungicides that may be applied with the seed or used as a seed treatment. Mycorrhizae need carbon as a food source. Humic acids are a concentrated organic matter and are often used to supplement mycorrhizae in soil systems. Do not use dry dog food or other carbon sources not recommended by the manufacturer. Some growers try to supplement mycorrhizae populations with sugars and other materials that can promote pathogen development and lead to disastrous results. Follow up applications to the surface of the medium every few months will help maintain a healthy population of these beneficial fungi. In fact, if the roots have between 40 to 80 per cent coverage with white mycorrhizae fungi then you have a healthy population protecting your plants. Shopping for Mycorrhizal Fungi There are a lot of mycorrhizal products on the market today. Growers are often wary of new products that suddenly appear on the market as copy-cats of 130
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High Quality Mycorrhizal Product
Low Quality Mycorrhizal Product
Liquid, granular, or teabag formulation
Refrigerated product
Mixture of ecto and endo types
Single species product
High CFU or spore count
Low CFU or spore count
Long shelf life - two years
Short shelf life
Reputable manufacturer
Questionable source
Active over wide temperature range
Active over narrow temperature range
Organic certification
Not organically certified
"Several species of mycorrhizae may be combined to give longer season control because where one species starts to lose effectiveness the other may extend the protection." more well known products. Here are some features and specifications to look for when buying mycorrhizae products. First, look for stable formulations. Over the years the packaging and use of beneficial micro-organisms has become easier to use and more convenient. Many products now come as powders or liquids. One mycorrhizal product comes in a biodegradable “teabag” of powder and is often referred to as a teabag in the U.S., or a sachet in Europe. This powder contains spores and other fungal structures that need moisture to come out of dormancy. Dry formulations of mycorrhizae have a typical shelf life of 16-18 months although two years is not uncommon. Do not buy products that require refrigeration or special handling. Refrigerated products may have been allowed to get warm and be reduced in effectiveness long before you receive them. Stable products come in liquid, granular or teabag formulations.
Second, look for combinations of mycorrhizae species in one product. A mixture will often give protection against more pathogens than a single mycorrhizal species. Also, several species of mycorrhizae may be combined to give longer season control because where one species starts to lose effectiveness the other may extend the protection. Moreover, products with a mixture of ectomycorrhizae and endomycorrhizae are applicable to a wider range of crops than a product with only one or the other. Keep in mind that beets, broccoli and canola do not respond to mycorrhizae. Third, look for a guaranteed analysis on the label. These numbers will give you the number of spores or colony forming units (CFUs) in the product. The higher the number then the more fungal “seeds” you have to inoculate your plant roots.
Fourth, shelf life is important. It does you no good to have a large amount of spores at the time of manufacture only to have nothing but water to apply when you are ready to use the product. A long shelf life ensures the product is live and active when you need it. Fifth, do your homework and see how long the product has been on the market. Reputable companies have been selling the product for many years and have a track record. Companies selling poor performing product will not be in the market for very long.
genetically modified organisms or synthetically produced ingredients. Incorporating mycorrhizae into your indoor garden or growing operation is easy, safe and environmentally friendly. Look for mycorrhizal fungi products in your gardening catalog, local nursery or garden center. By using mycorrhizae you will be promoting a more balanced population of soil micro-organism and reduce your use of harsh, toxic chemicals. And you will save yourself
costly and worrisome disposal problems associated with chemical alternatives. Now that you’ve learned a little about mycorrhizae perhaps you will feel more confident in buying and using mycorrhizal fungi in your indoor garden or protected cropping system. MY A handy mycorrhizal product table is available on www.maximumyield.com
Sixth, look for products that operate over a wide range of temperatures. Mycorrhizal fungi, like any living organism, slow down or die in extreme temperatures. The temperature range in which the product is effective gives you an indication of how hardy the mycorrhizal strains are. Often manufacturers will mix mycorrhizae that have different points of inactivation due to high or low temperatures, again to extend protection time. Lastly, make sure the mycorrhizal product is organically certified. This ensures that the product does not contain any harmful human pathogens,
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YOU TELL US Maximum Yield sits down with Nathan Jackson of Nature’s Control, to discuss the benefits of beneficial insects in an indoor growing environment? Nathan Jackson, Nature's Control
Green Lacewing Larvae
MY: What are the benefits of using insects as a pest control? Nathan: We have poisoned our environment with pesticides for decades. It has caused cancer and death in fish, birds, wildlife and humans. Mother Nature has controlled insect pests for thousands of years with beneficial insects. Aside from the environmental and health benefits of using predatory insects over insecticides, they also work extremely well. Rather than spraying over and over again, you can release Hired Bugs into your grow room or greenhouse and let them do all the hard work. They have evolved to feed on specific insects, and their goal in life is to eat as many pests as they can find. Not only do they get rid of the adult pests, but they also feed on the eggs which often are not killed by sprays. MY:What varieties of pests can be found in an indoor growing environment that can be killed off with beneficial insects? Nathan: Probably the most common pest found indoors is spider mites. Nearly all experienced growers recognize the fine
1
2
1: Two Spot Spider Mite 2: Spider Mite Predator
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"Double Death" Predator Nematodes
webbing and yellow-speckling on the leaves these nasty little mites create. There are numerous predators that eat spider mites, the most popular being the group referred to as Spider Mite Predators. Other pests commonly found indoors include thrips, aphids, whiteflies, mealy bugs and fungus gnats, all of which can be controlled with beneficial insects. MY: What are the different varieties of hired bugs available and what can they do to help eliminate a pest problem? Nathan: Spider Mite Predators are used to attack spider mites. These small mites eat both spider mite adults and eggs. There are different types available; however, our most popular is a Triple Threat mixture of three different varieties. Spider Mite Destroyers can also be introduced in conjunction with the predators. Ladybugs, green lacewings and pirate bugs are considered general feeders. They eat many different types of insects making them a good choice for rooms with unidentified pests, rooms with multiple pests or for prevention. Predatory nematodes are used to attack soil pests. They will go after nearly any pest in the top six inches of soil and work well against fleas, thrips and fungus gnats.
Ladybug eating aphids
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YOU TELL US
MY: Ladybugs have long since been known as a natural pest control agent. But, how do they work in an indoor growing environment compared to outdoors in their natural environment? Nathan: Ladybugs are probably the most widely recognized predator on the planet. They are general feeders, but their real preference is aphids.
Praying Mantis
There are many predators that attack specific pests. They only go after one type of insect, but they do it very efficiently. Whitefly parasites, whitefly predators, aphid parasites, aphid predators, mealy bug destroyers, thrips predators, caterpillar parasites, fungus gnat predators and housefly parasites all attack one specific group of pests. MY: How are the “hired bugs” reared or cared for prior to being shipped off to “work”? Nathan: Ladybugs are collected in the wild while on their migration. They are stored in refrigeration to encourage them to go dormant. They are then cleaned, packaged and shipped. Most of our Hired Bugs are reared in large greenhouses called insectaries. Great care must be taken to prevent contamination and ensure the breeding population stays healthy. When they leave the insectary they are packaged in Styrofoam with ice packs to ensure they arrive healthy and ready to eat.
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Outdoors they can travel over many miles, eating thousands of aphids and other small soft bodied insects along their journey. They are an inexpensive and effective way to rid your outdoor garden of pests. They work indoors as well. They crawl in and around the plants eating as they go. They have been known to fly into lights, so it is best to use glass on your hoods. They are very good escape artists, so in greenhouses or rooms with lots of ventilation it can help to put window screen over any openings. In the winter the ladybugs are older and more mature, which increases the chances of them breeding and laying eggs in your room. The ladybug larvae that hatch out are extremely predatory and are the best aphid control you can find. MY: What happens to the “hired bugs” once the pest populations die off? Nathan: When all the pests are gone the Hired Bugs move on to find tasty bugs to eat in other areas.
MY
All of Maximum Yield's "You Tell Us" features are avilable to read online at www.maximumyield.com
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Continued from page 38
Introducing General Organics General Hydroponics is proud to announce General Organics. “GO” is the first complete line of superior organic liquid nutrients and supplements from the global leader in premium plant foods. The products are sustainably sourced, and produced with solar power for the lowest possible environmental impact. BioThrive Grow and Bloom offer essential nutrients for thriving crops. BioMarine enhances soils and boots plant growth. CaMg+ will benefit your plants’ ability to transport calcium and micronutrients. BioRoot encourages beneficial microbial activity in the root zone. BioWeed creates plant and soil vitality. BioBud provides flowering plants with minerals, humates and amino acids. Diamond Black is an exceptional source of plant active humates.
The GO line not only feeds and enhances your plants, they build soils and feed beneficial microbes. The formulas bring together the time tested gardening techniques of ancients with the ecological and efficient methods of the future. General Organics represents General Hydroponics deep commitment to sustainability, quality, simplicity and innovation. To learn more visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
Smart Pots Now Available The patented Smart Pot is for the gardener who wants a container that will grow the best possible plant. It is a new and unique advancement in container technology that is better than any other method of container gardening. The Smart Pot is: • better than standard black plastic containers • better than ceramic (clay) containers • better than raised beds • better than decorative containers The patented Smart Pot is a soft-sided fabric container that has the rigidity to hold its shape and can even support large trees. In fact, the Smart Pot was originally developed for and has been used by commercial tree growers for over 20 years. The Smart Pot is an aeration container. It has a unique ability to air-prune and enhance a plant’s root structure. A highly branched, fibrous root structure is the key to growing a better plant – with more flowers and fruits, and more resistance to insects and diseases. In any container garden, the container you use makes a difference. Try the Smart Pot for your smart garden. Your plants will thank you. Their root structures will thank you. Happy container gardening! Smart Pots are now available at an authorized retailer near you.
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New Bluelab Guardian Monitor The new Bluelab Guardian is a constant indicator of the desired levels of EC, pH and temperature, enabling the grower to optimize these parameters through each growing phase. With the Guardian Monitor’s built-in silent alarm system there is: • no more test strips or manual meters required • constant readings when adding nutrient or making pH adjustments • less risk of crop failure and disease due to an imbalance of nutrient or pH levels You can have peace of mind and ultimately, more time in your day! The Guardian Monitor has: • easy-to-read green LED displays • selectable values for conductivity and temperature • a simple push button pH calibration system • no calibration required for conductivity and temperature • a silent alarm for both high and low settings • retained settings during power loss (non-volatile memory) • temperature compensation • an international power supply • a water resistant design • a two year Bluelab guarantee (six months for pH probe) All Bluelab products are manufactured in New Zealand and distributed worldwide. Please contact your favorite retailer for information.
STG Introduces the Clipper Clone Puck Sure To Grow has developed a revolutionary Cloner puck designed to be a seamless replacement for current neoprene products. The technological breakthrough is that unlike current neoprene pucks, where the cutting must be removed, the STG Clipper Cloner goes from the cloner to the next stage of growth, with no additional transplant needed. This not only reduces the occurrence of transplant shock, but also saves growers a lot of time. Truly, two great value added benefits. The STG Cloner Puck fits the most common size clone systems like EZ Clone, Botanicare, Power Cloner, Clone Machine and others, and can also be used in conjunction with all of STG’s new Storm series inserts for net pots and buckets. To learn more about the Deluge Insert, visit an indoor gardening retailer.
Liquid W-8 from Green Planet Wholesale Give your plants the Midas touch. Liquid W-8 is designed to boost yield during the crucial flowering period. Extremely cost effective and worth its weight in gold! By far the most cost effective liquid sweetener on the market. Increases resin and essential oil production. Increases overall flavor in food and consumable crops. Liquid W-8 is available in one quart, one gallon, 2.2 gallons and five gallons. For more information on Liquid W-8 visit a hydroponics retailer near you. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Keeping your Cool with the Fresca Sol™ Light System Air-cooled lights work great with cool air, but become less efficient when outside air temperatures become warmer. The Fresca Sol™ Water-Cooled Light Fixture keeps your room cool all year long and uses a lot less energy with water than with air, therefore, lowering your electric bills. Another great benefit of water-cooling is that you can place the lighting as close as six inches above plants instead of 18 to 24 inches with air-cooled systems, resulting in nine to 16 times more light for your plants! The Fresca Sol consists of a double wall high-temperature borosilicate glass vessel with brackets, socket and 15 foot Sun System® lamp cord. The easy access door accommodates 250, 400, 600 or 1000 HPS lamps. 250 or 400 MH lamps - tubular jacket only (no BT-37 or 56 lamps). In order to run the Fresca Sol effectively, you’ll need a minimum 50 gallon reservoir needed per 1000 watt fixture. Requires active cooling with a water pump which is not included. For more information on the Fresca Sol Light System, contact and indoor gardening store near you.
Prepara Indoor Gardening Have a garden at your fingertips, all year long! Show off your freshly grown Italian sweet basil or your newly sprouted curly dwarf parsley from the comfort of your kitchen, anytime, rain or shine. The Prepara line will empower you to try herbs, vegetables, flowers and fruits. Experience the pleasure and satisfaction of growing your own plants! The Power Plant Deluxe comes complete with Power Plant Professional and Power Grow Lamp with bulb.
The Power Plant Professional has a rotating grow surface that automatically dispenses nutrient to your seeds and plants. No over-watering, no forgetting, no worries and no green thumb needed...just watch it grow! The Power Grow Lamp works with any plant and fully adjusts to stand over 22 inches tall. The “sunlight” spectrum bulb (included) helps plants grow up to 50 per cent faster than using sunlight alone. Nothing makes your meals taste better than the freshest ingredients. The Prepara Herb Savor will prolong the life of your fresh herbs for up to three weeks so you can enjoy fresh, flavorful meals every time you cook. Herb stems sit slightly submerged in the water of the water-well, keeping them fresh. Prepara indoor gardening products are now available at an authorized retailer near you.
Big Bloomin’ Guano™ This natural liquid plant food is clog-resistant, non-burning, odor and dust free, making it an excellent choice for a variety of applications as well as a superior bloom formula for all fruiting and flowering plants. Can be used by itself or together with other fertilizers. Good for indoor and outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more. 140
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Big Bloomin’ Guano TM
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Guaranteed by OGM P.O. Box 3442 Chico, CA 95927-3442
New Sunleaves Products Make Air Move and Plants Groove The Sunleaves family of products has expanded by five with the addition of the new 16 inch Sunleaves Wall Mount Fan and new buckets of Sunleaves guanos! Stagnant air in the grow room can create a haven for disease and pest infestations, and the Sunleaves Wall Mount Fan gets it moving without taking up valuable floor space! These three-speed fans can oscillate or maintain a fixed position and feature a five-year motor warranty to assure dependable performance. Sunleaves’ popular line of guanos provides the perfect level of nutrients plants need for each stage of development. With these newly-available 25 pound buckets of Sunleaves Peruvian Seabird Guano, 25 pound buckets of Sunleaves Jamaican Bat Guano, nine pound buckets of Sunleaves Mexican Bat Guano and 30 pound buckets of Sunleaves Indonesian Bat Guano, it’s more convenient than ever to achieve fast, sturdy growth with brighter blooms and bigger, tastier yields. Ask for these new Sunleaves products at your local indoor gardening retail store.
Hi-Brix Grow™ and Bloom™ Plant Foods Based on our famous Hi-Brix “Molasses for Plants” formula, Hi-Brix Grow Part A and Hi-Brix Bloom Part B are complimentary two part plant food formulas for indoor/ outdoor plants in soil or hydroponics. Parts A and B are to be used together through all phases of plant development. Use the Original Hi-Brix “Molasses for Plants” for a dynamite finishing formula. Growers are encouraged to visit an indoor gardening retail store more.
Hi-Brix
Hi-Brix
TM
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-bloom part B-
PL A N T F OOD
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distributed by
Guaranteed by OGM P.O. Box 3442 Chico, CA 95927-3442
Guaranteed by OGM P.O. Box 3442 Chico, CA 95927-3442
Give Your Plants a
BOOST! The all-natural and organic Co2 Generator that provides Co2 to your garden for up to 90 days.
Earth Juice® Soy-Ful™ Soy-Ful™ is a liquid plant nutrient produced from fermented soybeans to be used as part of a complete fertilization program through all stages of plant development. Can be used with indoor and outdoor plants, soil and hydroponics. (Replaces HydroOrganics “Fulvic”). Growers are encouraged to visit their local hydroponics retailer to learn more.
Now with “The Spray Kit” that allows you to build your very own direct Co2 distribution system. • No Heat! • Low Cost! • Easy to Use!
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
Introducing Sonic Bloom from Progress Earth As stomata normally imbibe the morning dew, sucking up nutrients in the form of free flowing elements, why not develop a special organic spray to apply to the leaves along with the sound that induces stomata to open. Dan Carlson stumbled upon this idea over 30 years ago and reasoned that even in poor soil, plants could be well nourished with a foliar spray containing the right combination of elements. To develop such an effective nutrient solution took Carlson 15 years of trial and error, experimenting in labs throughout the country. Carlson needed to find the proper balance of elements, which required endless testing with radioactive isotopes and Geiger counters to trace the elements’ translocation from leaves, to stems, to peak, to roots. Eventually Carlson included a variety of elements derived from natural plant products and from seaweed; he also added gibberellic acid derived from rice roots and growth stimulants, altering the surface tension of the water base to make it more easily absorbed. The end result was Sonic Bloom. To learn more about Sonic Bloom visit your local indoor gardening retail store.
MiniGen Water-Cooled CO2 Generator
After extensive testing, Hydro Innovations is very proud to introduce our MiniGen WaterCooled CO2 Generator. Measuring at only six inches by six inches by 10 inches, the MiniGen is perfect for smaller enclosures, and it can be used with or without the energy-efficient water cooling feature. The MiniGen has an electronic ignition with no standing pilot light and has a burner output of 1,250 BTU. When used with the water-cooling feature, 75 per cent of the heat produced by the burner is removed. It can be wall mounted or hung from chains. It burns propane fuel to produce CO2 and comes with a 12 foot gas hose with regulator. For more information on the MiniGen visit your local indoor gardening store.
MotherPlant from Hydrodynamics International Hydrodynamics International, the North American supplier of Clonex® Rooting Compound, is releasing a new bioorganic plant nutrient specifically for mother plants. Aptly named MotherPlant®, the two-part nutrient formula provides balanced nutrition for stock plants, whether grown hydroponically or in soil. N-P-K ratios are set to meet the nutritional needs of the mother plant, without excess nitrates. Bio-organics are added to improve the uptake of nutrients and strengthen the plant’s natural immunity to environmental stress. Whether a part-time hobbyist or a serious commercial grower, MotherPlant® will help produce the most vigorous clones possible! Our two-part liquid nutrient: • uses the highest quality minerals combined with bioorganics • provides high carbohydrate to nitrogen ratios in shoots • increases calcium to produce stronger cell walls • results in faster rooting and sustained root growth • produces stress-tolerant daughter plants • is available in quart and gallon sizes More information can be found at indoor gardening retail stores everywhere. 142
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Bountea Growing System Expands to Include Bountea Better Bloom B3 Organic Bountea has added Bountea Better Bloom B3 to complete its range of component products in the Bountea Growing System. B3 is formulated from natural phosphates and potassium to promote exceptional flowering and fruiting. The Bountea Growing System is based on a premium compost tea formula: Alaska Humisoil - a natural starter with an extraordinary diversity of microbial life. Bountea Bioactivator - a special preparation of compost tea nutrients and stimulants. To enhance the effectiveness of the Bountea, two component products can be added:
Root Web - with 21 fungal species early in the season. Marine Mineral Magic M3 - with nitrogen, sea minerals and trace elements to promote strong healthy vegetative growth. Bountea Better Bloom B3, used as flower buds form, is the third component that completes the comprehensive Bountea Growing System. For more information visit your local indoor gardening retailer.
Xtrasun 8” Air Cooled Reflector The Xtrasun eight inch Super Air Coolable Reflector has eight inch flanges that offer maximum cooling options for indoor gardeners. This unit features reflective European aluminium, and a built in socket and 15 foot cord set. It has a foam-sealed lens that will help keep your room cool. This lens is removable the make bulb exchange easy. These reflectors accept sodium (400 watt, 430 watt, 600 watt, 1000 watt) and halide (400 watt, 1000 watt) bulbs. The Xtrasun eight inch air cooled reflector is now available at an authorized retailer near you.
All-New Maxx Power LED Units – Light Years Ahead of the Competition Light years ahead of the competition, the new LED units from Maxx Power are soon to be the world standard with digital driver technology. Maxx Power LEDs are the first and only true full spectrum LED available, using 200 one watt LEDs in red, blue and full spectrum ultra bright white. The modular design allows you to daisy-chain multiple units together using only one outlet plug and the balanced spectrums eliminate the need for adjustments. These fully digital LED drivers are more efficient, brighter and the coolest running unit on the market. The tempered glass lens is guaranteed forever. Maxx Power LEDS feature: • Up to 1200 watts of total LED power equal to thousands of HID watts • Huge efficiency over HID lights • Built in AC cooling fans Made in the U.S.A. and with a full money back guarantee, you can’t go wrong with Maxx Power LEDs, the world’s most powerful line of LED grow lights. Visit your local hydroponics retailer to learn more. MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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PRODUCT spotlight
ask for these exciting new products at your favorite indoor gardening store.
HealthyJuicer from Progress Earth
Premium Copper Tools from Progress Earth
Most people are aware of the extensive health benefits of juicing, and particularly of juicing wheatgrass, but nobody enjoys the process of setting up the juicer and worst of all, cleaning up afterwards. The HealthyJuicer is rugged, efficient, and best of all, easy to use and clean! The HealthyJuicer is endorsed and sold by the Hippocrates Health Institute, one of the leading alternative health centers in the world since 1956. The HealthyJuicer takes minutes to disassemble and clean. No metal cutting screens that have hundreds of tiny holes to clog up and must be scrubbed with a brush over and over again. All of the excess waste pulp is neatly expelled out the front of the end cap into a separate bowl for easy disposal. There’s nothing to it! For more information on the Healthy Juicer, visit your local hydroponics retailer.
These premium copper tools are hand-made in Austria and Hungary by craftsman coppersmiths. These tools were inspired by the life and research of Viktor Schauberger who understood that copper is more beneficial to the soil and the health of the plants than conventional iron or steel tools. These copper tools have been developed in close association with PKS, the organization established by the Schauberger family to preserve and promote Viktor’s life work. The blades are made of solid bronze, an alloy of copper and tin, and then hand-beaten to harden them. Other parts are made of brass and other copper alloys. The shafts are made of European hardwoods - ash, beech and lime. The resulting tools are hardwearing, practical and beautiful. In many ways copper is the opposite of iron and steel, the metals used commonly for garden tools. Iron is magnetic, copper conductive. So whereas iron disturbs soil magnetism, copper assists the flow of earth energies to nourish the plants. Although copper is not as hard as steel, it is also less brittle, and will never rust! To learn more about these premium copper tools, visit your nearest hydroponics retailer.
Oakton TDS Testr Low The new economical Oakton conductivity and TDS pocket meters feature a large, ergonomically designed display so that you can easily view measurements at a glance. Waterproof and dustproof housing is designed for use in dirty and damp field conditions. Convenient, built-in belt/pocket clip keeps the tester accessible when not in use. Stainless steel electrodes are both rugged and chemical resistant, for use in a wide variety of applications. Single-point electronic calibration means you are ready to measure quickly and easily. Additional features include auto shut-off to prolong battery life, hold function to lock in a measured value and self-diagnostic error messages. The TDS models also have a self-adjusting TDS factor from 0.4 to 1.0. Four 1.5 volt button cell batteries included. • The non-replaceable sensor keeps the price down. • It is great for educational or field-use purposes. • It has an easy-to-read display. • Four models to choose from depending on your parameter and range requirements. Contact your hydroponics retail representative for more information. 144
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Homegrown Hydroponics Introduces DNF Bloom Fortifier DNF Bloom Fortifier will give your plants the extra power needed to maximize flower production. It contains levels of phosphorus and potash balanced specifically for robust flowers and increased essential oil production. Use to enhance your current high quality nutrient regime to optimize plants’ potential and increase yields. Builds strong, healthy plants that are more resistant to adversities. When used correctly, DNF Bloom Fortifier 0-50-30 will increase flower size, increase weight, increase essential oils, boost flower production and build rich, healthy fruit. For more information on DNF Bloom Fortifier visit an indoor gardening retailer.
Light Deprivation Greenhouses from Forever Flowering Forever Flowering’s automated light deprivation greenhouses allow you to shorten or extend the growing season any time of the year by using the free power of the sun. Combined with blackout tarps and optional supplemental lighting, our greenhouses provide continual top quality and high quantity results while still being environmentally responsible. We offer a hobby line for those looking to grow in 400 square feet or less and cutting edge greenhouses that come with a retractable roof and roll up sidewalls. Both models are made of galvanized steel, and come with the highest quality environmental control units, lumen meters and the ability to stand up to high winds and snow loads. For those pulling tarps manually we offer two different kinds of ‘blackout’ material. Both are sewn to custom dimensions with reinforced tape around the edges and grommets every 10 feet. The triple layer breathable fabric, the only one the market and patented as such, has an aluminum top layer which deflects the excess heat of the sun. If the aluminum is too shiny just flip it over. The second is also of the highest quality but is only one layer and not breathable. To learn more visit an indoor gardening retail store.
Grodan Introduces GrowChunks™ Grodan’s GrowChunks™ are super light and versatile. GrowChunks are a larger version (3⁄4 square inches) of the popular GrowCubes™. They are great for direct planting or for use as a filling around blocks when in containers. They can be easily mixed with other media for increased aeration and added moisture holding capabilities. Available in a two cubic foot bag. Learn more at your local hydroponics retail store.
MY You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow. Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or email editor@maximumyield.com
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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AVANT-GARDENING
Homeopathy
Getting Started with
Homeopathy is an alternative form of medicine that has been used for thousands of years to treat everything from life threatening illnesses to the common cold. While many people used to modern medicine may find it suspicious, it is still one of the most often used types of medical treatment worldwide and is steadily gaining popularity in the western world. Homeopathic medicine is based on three basic principles. The biggest principle of homeopathy is that like treats like. Instead of treating based on the disease doctors think you have, treatment is done based on the symptoms you know you have. The second principle is that there is only one treatment, not two or even 10 like a traditional doctor might give you. The third principle is that everything is given in extremely small doses. To treat yourself homeopathically, you must figure out all the symptoms. Once you know your symptoms, you find a substance that causes the exact same set of symptoms and take a small amount of it. Because you are only taking a very small amount, the substance not only doesn’t harm you, it’s said to cure you, generally long term or even permanently. When most people hear about homeopathy, their initial reaction is “no way!” Treating symptoms with something that causes your symptoms seems totally counterintuitive, but it’s a concept that’s used in modern medicine as well as more ancient cures. Shots commonly used to treat allergies contain a small amount of whatever you’re allergic to. Many vaccines contain a small amount of the disease they’re designed to protect against. Homeopathic medicine is not only considered effective, it has many benefits over modern medicine. Like many other natural medical treatments, most homeopathic remedies are totally natural. While this doesn’t necessarily make them safe, these remedies tend to cause fewer side effects, have little drug interactions, and are generally better for your overall health. Homeopathic medications are also considered better for your body because they work with it. Many modern
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medicines work to suppress symptoms like fever or coughing. These symptoms are the body’s natural ways to get rid of disease. Instead of suppressing symptoms, homeopathic medicine works to cure the problem itself while addressing the specific symptoms. When the right treatment is found, homeopathy is considered very effective. The big problem is that just like there are thousands of prescriptions and over the counter drugs, there are also thousands of homeopathic remedies as well. And if you don’t pick exactly the right one, it won’t work. While you can buy homeopathic remedies over the counter, just like herbal and other alternative medicines, that doesn’t mean it’s 100 per cent safe to treat yourself. If you’re serious about this treatment you should speak to a doctor who has experience in alternative medicine or even see a specialist in the area. MY
DO YOU
know?
1
2
3
4
Sprayers or jets are great for use when top-feeding to achieve an even distribution of nutrient over the surface of pots. However, they can be prone to blockages, and will increase evaporation losses and salt build-up.
Root thickness is influenced by temperature, with thinner roots seen under warmer growing conditions, although this varies somewhat between species.
5 A study of phosphorous fertilizer on raspberries
found that applying high levels of phosphorus caused the yield to double and concentrations of phosphorus to increase in the plants, but meanwhile levels of eight other minerals declined by 20 to 55 per cent.
6 The industry standard for blacking out a crop still
allows an individual to be able to read a newspaper.
Greenhouses were developed in Europe in the 18th and 19th century as a means to protect chilling sensitive citrus trees from cold temperatures during the winter months. In the 1940s and 50s the structure of greenhouses changed from a wooden structure with glass to essentially a glass cladding supported by an aluminum structure to allow maximum entry of solar radiation.
acts as a soil conditioner, with the ability to 7 Seaweed transform light and sandy soils into denser mediums.
8 Recent research on the use of mustard as a cover
crop shows that it not only provides plenty of organic matter, it also helps control root diseases and soil borne pests.
One should allow for about 4500 BTUs of cooling for every 600 to 1000 watts of light. The exact BTU rating required is somewhat dependent on how well the room is insulated; if the ballasts are in the room or not; if air cooled lighting is being used; as well as if a gas fired CO2 generator will be.
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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MAX-MART
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
ALABAMA Alabama Organics 3348 Bethel Road, Valley Head, AL 35989 256-635-0802
ALASKA Brown’s Electrical Supply 365 Industrial Way, Anchorage, AK 99501 907-272-2259 Far North Garden Supply 300 Centaur Street, Wasilla, AK 99654 907-376-7586 Far North Garden Supply 2834 Boniface Parkway Anchorage, AK 99504 907-333-3141 Holmtown Nursery Inc. 1301 - 30th Avenue, Fairbanks, AK 99701 907-451-8733
ARIZONA ACI Hydroponics 1325 South Park Lane, Tempe, AZ 85282 800-633-2137 Homegrown Hydroponics 601 East Broadway Road, Tempe, AZ 85282 480-377-9096 Homegrown Hydroponics 1702 East Prince Road, Tucson, AZ 85719 520-323-1212 Natural Pools & Gardens 2143 North Country Suite C, Tucson, AZ 85716 520-323-2627 Sea of Green Hydroponics 815 W. University Drive, Suite 110, Tempe, AZ 85281 800-266-4136 Sea of Green West 2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116, Phoenix, AZ 85023 602-504-8842 Sea of Green Hydroponics 402 North 4th Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-622-6344
ARKANSAS Fermentables 3915 Crutcher Street, N. Little Rock, AR 72118 501-758-6261 Mickey’s Mercantile 1303 Highway 65 South, Clinton, AR 72031 501-412-0214 Old Soul Organics and More 1771 Crossover Road, Fayetteville, AR 72701 479-444-6955
CALIFORNIA 101 Hydroponics 2550 Vineyard Avenue, #200 Oxnard, CA 93030 805-988-6537 A+ Plant Technologies 1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 95521 949-642-7776 A Fertile World (Eureka) 65 th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-0200
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
A Fertile World (Fortuna) 610 7th Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-0700 Abundant Hydroponics LLC 1611 Shop Street, #1-A, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-54 HYDRO Advanced Garden Supply 2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard, Building C, Unit 9, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-4769 Advanced Garden Supply 3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F, Cameron Park, CA 95682, 530-676-2100 Advanced Hydroponics 17808 Sierra Highway, Canyon Country, CA 91351 661-299-1603 Advanced Indoor Agriculture 74991 Joni Drive, Suite 9, Palm Desert, CA 92260 AG Natural 111 East 12th Street, Marysville, CA 95901 Alameda County Hydroponics 20910 Redwood Road, Suite C, Castro Valley, CA 94546 All Seasons Hydroponics 17614 Chatsworth Street, Granada Hills, CA 91344 818-368-4388 Alternative Hydro 3870 East, Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91107 888-50-HYDRO Always Sunny Hydroponics 708 W. Swain Road Stockton, CA 95207 209-473-9827 American Hydroponics 286 South G Street, Arcata, CA 95521 800-458-6543 Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply 30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9 Sutter Creek, CA 95685 209-267-5416 Anything Grows 10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C, Truckee, CA 96161 530-582-0479 Atwater Hydroponics 3350 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90039 323-663-8881 Auburn Organic 4035 Grass Valley Highway, Auburn, CA 95602 530-823-8900 B & S Gardening Supplies 590 Commerce Court, Manteca, CA 95336 209-239-8648 Bakersfield Hydroponics 2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B Bakersfield, CA 93304 661-323-7333 Bare Roots Hydroponics 1615 East Cypress, #5 Redding, CA 96002 530-244-2215 Beginning Hydroponics PO Box 1232, Corona, CA 92787 951-735-4446
Best Coast Growers 4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C, San Diego, CA 92120 800-827-1876 Best Yield Garden Supply 3503 Temple Avenue #A, Pomona, CA 91768 909-839-0505 Berkeley Indoor Garden 844 University Avenue Berkeley, CA 94710 510-549-2918 Berkeley’s Secret Garden 921 University Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94710 510-486-0117 Better Grow Hydro Pasadena 1271 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasedena, CA 91106 626 737 6612 Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles 5554 Bandini Boulevard, Bell, CA 91106 323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW BWGS West 2247 North Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291 888-316-1306 California Hydro Garden 1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite A West Covina, CA 91790 626-813-0868 California Hydroponics 310 Coral Street, Suite C Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-423-4769 Caliponics Inc. 2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110 Solvang, CA 93463 877-PONICS9 Central Coast Hydrogarden 1951 Santa Barbara Street, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 805-544-GROW Citrus Heights Hydrogarden 8043 Greenback Lane Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4769 City Farmer’s Nursery 4832 Home Avenue, San Diego, CA 92105 619-284-6358 Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply 2626 South Main Street, Lakeport, CA 95453 707-263-4000 CNG Garden Supplies 22 Ricknbacker Circle, Livermore, CA 94551 209-836-5550 Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics 116 West Orangeburg Avenue, Modesto, CA 95350 209-567-0590 Concord Indoor Garden 2771 Clayton Road, Concord, CA 94519 925-671-2520 Conejo Hydroponics 3481 Old Conejo Road #106 Newbury Park, CA 91320 805-480-9596 Conrad Hydroponics Inc. 14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive, Clearlake, CA 95422 707-994 3264
Constantly Growing 6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite A Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-642-9710 Constantly Growing 4343 Hazel Avenue, Fair Oaks, CA 95628 916-962-0043 Constantly Growing - Davis 123 D Street Davis, CA 95616 530-756-4774 D&S Garden Supplies 17-130 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, CA 94577 510-430-8589 Dazey’s Supply 3082 Redwood Drive, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-3002 Direct Hydroponics Wholesale 14228 Alberts Way, Chino, CA 91710 909-606-5885 Dirt Cheap Hydroponics 17975 H Highway 1, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-964-4211 Discount Hydroponics 4745 Hiers Avenue, Riverside, CA 92505 877-476-9487 Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply 164 Dinsmore Drive, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-726-0395 Elite Horticulture Supply 22330 Sherman Way, C13, Canoga Park, CA 91303 818-347-5172 Emerald Garden 8249 Archibald Avenue, Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730 909-466-3796 Emerald Garden 13325 South Highway 101, Hopland, CA 95482 707-744-8300 Emerald Garden 307 East Perkins Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-463-2510 Evergreen Hydroponics 923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B, Upland, CA 91786 909-946-7100 Everything Green Hydroponics 915 Texas Street, Fairfield, CA 94533 707-432-0774 Everything Green 448 Georgia Street, Vallejo, CA 94590 707-647-0774 Extreme Hydroponics 11479 San Fernando Road C, San Fernando, CA 91340 818-898-0915 EZ Green Hydroponics 7017 Reseda Boulevard, Reseda, CA 91335 818-776-9076 Farm Hydroponics, The 1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3, S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150 530-541-3276
Foothill Hydroponics 10705 Burbank Boulevard, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 818-760-0688 Foothills Hydrogarden 3133 Penryn Road, Penryn, CA 95663 916-270-2413 Four Seasons Garden Center 1737 Broadway, Oakland, CA 94612 510-832-2545 Full Sun Supply 3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 877-FULL-SUN Funny Farms Hydroponics 963 Transport Way, #12 Petaluma, CA 94954 707-775-3111 G & G Organics and Hydroponics 901 W. Victoria Street Unit D, Compton, CA 90220 310-632-0122 Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2 Chico, CA 95928 530-342-7762 Garden Depot, The 203 Commerce St., Suite 101 Lodi, CA 95240 209-339-9950 Garden Shed, The 1136 El Camino Real San Carlos, CA 650-508-8600 Garden Spout, The 44800 Highway 101, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-7260 Garden Highway Garden Supply 598 Garden Highway #22 Yuba City, CA 95991 530-755-2877 Garden Spout, The 630 S. Main Street, Willits, CA 95490 707-456-0196 Garden Warehouse 6355 Scarlet Court, #2, Dublin, CA 94568 925-556-3319 Go Big Hydroponics 4501 Van Nuys Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91403 818-789-3341 Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply 8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48, Stockton, CA 95210 209-951-3550 Gottagrow Garden Supply 769 Wilson Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 707-544-7782 Grass Roots Hydroponics 31877 Corydon, Suite 150 Lake Elsinore, CA 92530 951-245-2390 Grass Valley Hydrogardens 12520 Ste. 4, Loma Rica Drive, Grass Valley, CA 93945 530-477-2996 Green Acres Hydroponics 1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180, Sacramento, CA 95834 916-419-4394 Green Coast Hydroponics 3560 State Street, Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805-898-9922
Green Coast Hydroponics 2405 Mira Mar Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-627-5636 Green Coast Hydroponics 496 Meats Avenue Orange, CA 92865 714-974-4769 Green Coast Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Greenfire Sacramento 3230 Auburn Boulevard, Sacramento, CA 95821 916-485-8023 Green Logic Garden Supply 860 Piner Road, #38, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707-843-3156 Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply 1480 South E. Street, Suite D, San Bernardino, CA 92408 909-885-5919 Green Thumb Hydroponics 35 Quinta Court, Suite B, Sacramento, CA 95823 916-689-6464 Green Thumb Lighting & Garden 1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5, Torrance, CA 90501 888-326-GROW Greentrees Hydroponics Inc. 2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit D Vista, CA 92081 760-598-7551 GreenWay Hydroponics 11510 Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90601 562-699-4201 Grodan Inc. 5152 Commerce Ave. Moorpark, CA 93021 541-646-8245 Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego 1591 N. Cuyamaca Street, El Cajon, CA 92020 619-300-2138 Growers Choice Hydroponics 1100 Carver Road, Modesto, CA 95350 209-522-2727 Growers Choice Hydroponics 16754 East 14th Street, San Leandro, CA 94578 510-278-6200 Grow It Yourself Gardens 401 Sunset Drive, Suite L, Antioch, CA 94509 925-755-GROW Grow King Hydroponics 932 South San Pedro Street, Los Angeles, CA 90015 213-689-8982 Grow Light Express 5318 East Second Street suite 164, Long Beach, CA 90803 888-318-GROW Grow Your Own 3401 Traval Street, San Francisco, CA 94116 415-731-2115 Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics 12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C, Riverside, CA 92503 877-468-7974 H20 Gardening 355 West 7th Street, San Pedro, CA 90731 310-514-1416
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
153
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Hahn’s Lighting 260 E. VA Suite 1, San Jose, CA 95112 408-295-1755 Harvest Hydroponics 6650 Merchandise Way Suite B, Diamond Springs, CA 95619 530-622-5190 High Desert Hydroponics 13631 Pawnee Road, #7 Apple Valley, CA 92308 760-247-2090 Hi-Tech Gardening 5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282, Richmond, CA 94804 510-524-4710 Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics 5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105 323-662-1908 Hooked Up Hydroponics 339 S. Golden State Boulevard, Turlock, CA 95380 209-668-1300 House of Hydro 224 Weller Street, #B, Petaluma, CA 94952 707-762-4769 Humboldt Hydroponics 1302 Union Street, Eureka, CA 95501 707-443-4304 Humboldt Hydroponics 2174 Pine Street, Redding, CA 96001 530-241-7454 Humboldt Nutrients 65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501 888-420-7770 Hydro Depot 5665 Redwood Drive, #B, Rohnert Park, CA 94928 707-584-2384 Hydroasis 2643 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90232 888-355-4769 Hydrobrew 1319 South Coast Highway, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW Hydrogarden Delight 13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577 510-903-1808 Hydrogarden Mendocino County 1240 North Main Street, Fort Bragg, CA 95437 707-962-9252 Hydro-Logic Purification Systems 2825 Mattison Lane, Suite 103, Santa Cruz, CA 95065 888 H2O LOGIC HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies 351 C Hastings Av., Ukiah, CA 95482 707-467-0400 Hydroponic Connection, The 316 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94117 415-864-9376 Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The 1995 Evans Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124 415-824-9376
154
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
Hydroponics 4 Less 41669 Winchester Avenue, Temecula, CA 92590 800-A1-HYDRO Hydroponics Plus 2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite C Concord, CA 94520 925-691-7615 HydroponicsUnlimited.com 2728 E. Palmdale Boulevard #121 Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-3906 Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics 1307 W. Sixth Street, #211, Corona, CA 92882 951-479-8069 Inland Empire Hydrogarden 1301-C South State Street, San Jancinto, CA 92853 886-72-HYDRO Inland Empire Hydrogarden 28822 Old Town Front St. #206 Temecula, CA 92590 886-74-HYDRO Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS) 7922-B Miramar Road, San Diego, CA 92126 858-578-IGS7 Kaweah Grower Supply 1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way, Visalia, CA 93293 559-652-4937 Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More 14626 East Whittier Boulevard, Whittier, CA 90605 562-945-0909 Let it Grow 1228 2nd Street, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-464-9086 Let it Grow 160 Westwood Center, Arcata, CA 95521 707-822-8733 Liquid Gardens 21752 Devonshire Street, Chatsworth, CA 91311 818-718-7624 Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics 1772 Clark Avenue, Long Beach, CA 90815 562-498-9525 Lumatek Digital Ballasts 33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite B Novato, CA 94949 415-233-4273 M&M Garden Supply 2509 West Lane, Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 209-939-0664 M&M Garden Supply 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite B Stockton, CA 95205 Marin Hydroponics 1219 Grant Avenue, Novato, CA 94945 415-897-2197 Medicine Man Farms 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Mendocino Garden Shop PO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1), Mendocino, CA 95460 707-937-3459
Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply 900 East School Way, Redwood Valley, CA 95470 707-485-0668 Merced Hydroponics 1635 M Street, Merced, CA 95340 209-726-4769 M.G.S. 22540 D Foothill Boulevard, Hayward, CA 94541 510-582-0900 Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply 224B Reindollar Avenue, Marina, CA 93933 831-38-HYDRO Monterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics 81 Hangar Way, #1, Watsonville, CA 95076 831-761-9999 Myron L Company 2450 Impala Drive, Carlsband, CA 9210-7226 760-438-2021 Mystic Gardens 8484 Florin Road, #110, Sacramento, CA 95828 916-381-2464 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 1950 C South Grove Avenue, Ontario, CA 91761 888-888-3319 Nature’s Dance Garden Supply 6542 Front Street, Forestville, CA 95436 707-887-2280 Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply 41469 Albrae Street, Fremont, CA 94577 510-623-8393 NorCal Creations PO Box 28, Cedar Ridge, CA 95924 Nor Cal Hydroponics 4837 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 122 West 4th Street, Suite B Eureka, CA 95501 707-444-9999 Northcoast Horticulture Supply 1580 Nursery Way, Suite Q McKinleyville, CA 95519 707-839-9998 Northcoast Hydrogardens 3450 North State Street, Ukiah, CA 95482 707-462-7214 No Stress Hydroponics 7543 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-845-9874 One Stop Hydroponics 12822 Victory Boulevard North Hollywood, CA 91606 818-980-5855 Oracle Garden Supply 5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100 San Diego, CA 92121 858-558-6006 Orange County Hydroponics 12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H, Stanton, CA 90680 714-893-9493 Organic Bountea 1919 Dennis Lane, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 800-798-0765
Orsa Organix 111 Willow Street, Redwood City, CA 94063 650-369-1269 Pacific Beach Hydroponics 1852 Garnet Avenue, San Diego, CA 92109 858-274-2559 Pacific Coast Hydroponics 4147 Sepulveda Boulevard, Culver City, CA 90230 310-313-1354 Pacific Garden Supply 128 H Carlos Drive, San Rafael, CA 94903 Palmdale Hydroponics 2728 East Palmdale Boulevard Suite 108, Palmdale, CA 93550 661-266-9908 Palm Springs Hydroponics 4651 Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA 92264 760-327-ROOT Plant It Earth 2279 Market Street, San Francisco, CA 94114 415-626-5082 Plant Life 32 Race Street, San Jose, CA 95126 408-283-9191 Plant-N-Grow 1602 53rd Avenue, Oakland, CA 94601 707-980-0456 Precision Hydroponics 132 Kennedy Avenue, Campbell, CA 95008 408-866-8176 Professional Gardening Systems 765 Petaluma Avenue, Sebastopol, CA 95472 707-829-7252 Pro Gardening Systems 3715 Santa Rosa Ave. Suite A2, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-585-8633 Redway Feed & Grain Supply 290 Briceland Road, Redway, CA 95560 707-923-2765 Roots Grow Supply 1330 North Hulbert, #101 Fresno, CA 93728 559-840-0122 Sac Hydroponics 9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite C Sacramento, CA 95827 916-369-7968 San Diego Hydroponics East County 11649 Riverside Drive, Suite 141, Lakeside, CA 92040 619-562-3276 San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities 4122 Napier Street, San Diego, CA 92110 619-276-0657 San Diego Hydroponics North 802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108 San Marcos, CA 92069 760-510-1444 San Francisco Hydro 123 Tenth Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West 815 Almar Avenue, Suite K, Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831-466-9000 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East 4000 Cordelia Lane #4, Soquel, CA 95073 831-475-9900 Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North 6241 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA 95018 831-335-9990 Santee Hydroponics 7973A Mission Gorge Road, Santee, CA 92071 619-270-8649 Seaside Hydrogarden 1070 Highway 101 North, Crescent City, CA 95531 707-465-3520 Skywide Import & Export Ltd. 5900 Lemon Hill Avenue, Sacramento, CA 95824 916-383-2369 Socal Hydroponics 1727-B Oceanside Boulevard, Oceanside, CA 92054 760-439-1084 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics 569 East Evelyn Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94041 650-968-4070 South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose 1185 South Bascom Avenue, San Jose, CA 95128 408-292-4040 South County Hydroponics 22511 Aspan Street, Suite E Lake Forest, CA 92630 949-837-8252 South Valley Hydroponics 320 Kishimura Drive, #3 Gilroy, CA 95020 1-866-848-GROW Sparetime Supply 208 E. San Francisco Avenue, Willits, CA 95490-4006 707-459-6791 Sun-In Hydroponics 1257A Cleveland Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707-578-5747 Sunland Hydroponics 8300 Foothill Boulevard, Sunland, CA 91040 818-352-5300 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 850 Shasta Avenue, Suite B Morro Bay, CA 93442 805-772-5869 Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply 3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2 Paso Robles, CA 93446 805-434-2333 Sweet Leaf Hydroponics 1611 Sebastobol Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95407 707-575-GROW (4237) Sylvandale Gardens 77 Avenue, Of The Giants, Phillipsville, CA 95559 707-923-3606 Tahoe Garden Supply 645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487 Tahoe City, CA 96145 530-581-3200
Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening 62 Sutherland Drive, Auburn, CA 95603 530-889-8171 Thrive Hydroponics 70 A West North Street, Healdsburg, CA 95446 707-433-4068 Thunders Hydroponic Center 1729 Yosemite Boulevard, Medesco, CA 95354 TNC Supply 9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763 Upper Lake, CA 95485 707-275-9565 Tower Garden Supply 3 E Olive, Fresno, CA 93728 559-495-1140 Tulare County Growers Supply 435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A, Farmerville, CA 93223 559-732-8247 Turbo Grow 1889 San Pablo Avenue, Pinole, CA 94564 510-724-1291 Under The Sun 12638 Foothill Boulevard, Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423 707-998-GROW (4769) Urban Gardens 22516 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364 818-876-0222 Urban Gardens Unlimited 704 Filbert Street, San Francisco, CA 94133 415-421-4769 US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies 1621 South Rose Avenue, Oxnard, CA 93033 805-247-0086 Valley Garden Solutions Inc. 15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104, North Hills, CA 91345 818-336-0041 Wai Kula Hydrogardens 5297 Linda Vista Road, San Diego, CA 92110 619-299-7299 Weather Top Nursery 44901 Harmon Drive, Laytonville, CA 95454 707-984-6385 We Grow Hydroponics 3350 East Los Angeles Avenue, Simi Valley, CA 93063 805-624-4566 West Coast Growers Hydroponics 13481 Colifax Highway, Grass Valley, CA 95945 888-924-4769 West Coast Hydroponics, Inc. 27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10 Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-348-2424 Western Auto 1156 Main Street, Fortuna, CA 95540 707-725-1189
COLORADO Bath Nursery & Garden Center 2000 E. Prospect, Fort Collins, CO 80525 970-484-5022 Big Tomato, The 14440 E. 6th Avenue Aurora, CO 80011 303-364-4769
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
155
MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Big Tomato, The 3000 Main Avenue, Durango, CO 81301 970-375-1238 Boulder County Caregivers PO Box 7406, Golden, CO 80403 303-495-2195 Boulder Hydroponics 1630 N. 63rd Street, #5, Boulder, CO 80301 303-415-0045 Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics 7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 303-954-9897 Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center 6810 North Broadway, Unit D Denver, CO 80221 303-650-0091 Desert Bloom Hydroponics 445 Pitkin Avenue, Grand Junction, CO 81501 970-245-6427 Garden Tech 737 Garden of the Gods Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-278-9777 Greenhouse Tech 917 East Fillmore, Colorado Springs, CO 80907 719-634-0637 Grow Store South, The 5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37, Englewood, CO 80110 303-738-0202 Grow Store, The 8644 W. Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, CO 80215 888-510-0350 Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium 34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9, North Edwards, CO 81632 970-569-3139 Hydro-Grow Supply 644 Peterson Road, Colorado Springs, CO 80915 719-596-2600 Hydro Shack, The 220 Main Street, Suite E Frisco, CO 80443 970-668-0359 Indoor Paradise Hydroponics 309 S. Summit View, Unit 17, Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462 970-221-3751 Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics 7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3D Denver, CO 80221 303-428-5020 Way To Grow 3201 E. Mulberry Street, Fort Collins, CO 80524 970-484-4769 Way To Grow 6395 Gunpark Drive, Boulder, CO 80301 303-473-4769
CONNECTICUT Harvest Moon Hydroponics 775 Silver Lane, East Hartford, CT 06118 860-568-4067 LiquidSun® CT 10C South Main Street, East Windsor, CT 06088 860-254-5757
156
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
Organix Hydroponics 749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza) Middletown, CT 06457 860-343-1923
FLORIDA Absolute Growing Solutions Inc. 7307 49th Street, Pinellas Park, FL 33781 727-541-3333 Advanced Hydro Gardens 4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4, Miami, FL 33014 866-97-HYDRO Atlantic Hydroponics 430 Count Street, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-1535 Blossoms Experience, The 7207 NW 54th Street, Miami, FL 33166 866-452-4769 Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies 946 18th Avenue SW, Vero Beach, FL 32962 772-564-8880 East Coast Hydroponics & Organics 461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105 Coca, FL 32922 321-243-6800 Eden Garden Supply 5044 N. Palafox Street, Pensacola, FL 32505 850-439-1299 Esposito Garden Center 2743 Capital Circle NE, Tallahassee, FL 32308 850-386-2114 Florida Garden Supplies 2692 W 79 Street, Hialeah, FL 33016 1-800-931-5215 Florida Garden Supplies 8020 Belvedere Road,Unit 4, West Palm Beach, FL 33411 561-333-1088 Future Farms Inc., The 14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105 Miami, FL 33186 305-382-2757 Gardener’s Edge Gainesville 5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13, Gainesville, FL 32605 352-375-2769 Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville 5325 Fairmont Street, Jacksonville, FL 32207 904-398-8012 Gardening Indoors of St. Pete 13920 88th Avenue North, Seminole, FL 33776 Gold Coast Hydroponics 1539 SW 21st Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 1-800-780-7371 Gold Coast Hydroponics 4241 SW 71st Avenue, Miami, FL 33155 1-800-780-6805 Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center 8877 North 56th Street Tampa, FL 33617 813-514-9376 Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies 13482 North Cleveland Avenue, Fort Meyers, FL 33903 239-997-4769
GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc. 5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104 Davie, FL 33314 954-316-8815 Grower's Choice & Hydroponics 11855 North Main Street, Jackonsonville, FL 32218 904-683-4517 Growing Experience, The 7029-9 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 954-960-0822 Growing Garden Inc., The 12811 SW 42nd Street, Miami, FL 33175 305-559-0309 Harvest Time Hydroponics 14414 N. Florida Avenue, Tampa, FL 33613 813-264-7101 Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc. 196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F, Pensacola, FL 32534 850-912-4545 High Tech Garden Supply 2975 West New Haven Avenue, Melbourne, FL 32901 321-821-0853 Hydro For Less 9545 Southwest 72nd Street, Miami, FL 33173 305-598-4311 Hydroponics International Inc. 7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue, Jacksonville, FL 32220 904-693-6554 Hydroponics of Tampa 120 W. Bougain Villea, Tampa, FL 33612 813-333-6828 Hydro Terra Corp. 924 North Federal Highway, Hollywood, FL 33020 954-920-0889 Just Ripe Garden Supply 13444 SW 131 Street, Miami, FL 33186 305-969-2004 Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc. 968 N. Congress Avenue, West Palm Beach, FL 33409 561-296-6161 Simply Hydroponics & Organics 7949 Ulmerton Road, Largo, FL 33773 727-531-5355 Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North) 3642 South Suncoast Boulevard, Homosassa, FL 34448 352-628-2655 Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies 7812 Causeway Boulevard, Tampa, FL 33619 813-626-0902 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 1420 East Altomonte Drive, Altamonte Spring, FL 32701 407-830-GROW Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando, FL 32809 407-859-7728 Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center 6100 Hanging Moss Road, Suite 500, Orlando, FL 32807 888-833-GROW
Worm’s Way Florida 4412 North 56th Street, Tampa, FL 33610 800-283-9676; 813-621-1792 GEORGIA Atlantis Hydroponics 1422 Woodmont Lane, #4, Atlanta, GA 30318 404-367-0052 Atlantis Hydroponics 2561 West Point Avenue, College Park, GA 30337 678-510-0032 Flora Hydroponics Inc. 2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600 Athens, GA 30607 866-404-0551 Savannah Hydroponics & Organics 4107 Eighth Street, Suite C Garden City, GA 31408 912-349-4030 HAWAII Aqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics 4224 Wailae, Suite 1A, Honolulu, HI 96816 808-735-8665 Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply 300 Hukilike Street, #2M, Kahalui, HI 96732 808-871-6393 Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer 15-2754 Old Government Road, Pahoa, HI 96778 808-965-9955
IDAHO Boise Hydroponics 614 North Orchard Street, Boise, ID 83706 208-344-3053 Greenthumb Greenhouses 5895 Ensign Avenue, Boise, ID 83714
ILLINOIS Aerostar Global 824 South Kay Avenue, Addison, IL 60101 Alternative Garden Supply A-615 Industrial Drive, Gary, IL 60013 800-444-2837 Big Grow Hydroponics 9225 Trinity Drive, Lake In The Hills, IL 60156 Brew and Grow 1824 North Besly Court, Chicago, IL 60622 773-395-1500 Brew and Grow 3224 South Alpine Road, Rockford, IL 61109 815-874-5700 Brew and Grow 2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194 847-885-8282 Fertile Ground 463 West MacArthur Drive, Cottage Hills, IL 62018 618-259-5500 Green Fields 8137 N. Milwaukee, Niles, IL 60714 847-965-5056 Grow Big Hydroponics 7817 B North 2nd Street, Manchesney Park, IL 61115 815-637-4769
Hydrocork 20647 Renwick Road, Crest Hill, IL 60435 815-838-0100 Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center 3427 Old Chatman Road, Springfield, IL 62704 217-341-0821 Let it Grow - Carbondale West Main Street, Carbondale, IL 62908 573-450-5401 Water Works Indoor Gardening 1900 South Dirksen Parkway, Springfield, IL 62703 217-553-6929
INDIANA BWGS 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-316-1306 Five Point Gardens 56555 Oak Road, South Bend, IN 46619 574-287-9232 Frogs Lilly Pad, The 706 Citation Road, Carmel, IN 46032 317-846-4610 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 4200 S. East Street, Indianapolis, IN 46227 317-780-8070 Magic Bulb Garden Center 6229 Allisonville Road, Indianapolis, IN 46220 317-202-2852 Sunleaves Garden Products 7854 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 888-464-9676 Worm’s Way Indiana 7850 North State Road 37, Bloomington, IN 47404 800-598-8158
KANSAS Green Circle Hydroponics 6890 W. 105th Street, Overland Park, KS 66212 913-642-3888
KENTUCKY Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Shop, The of Lexington 2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130, Lexington, KY 40509 859-268-0779 Louisville Hydroponics 3471 Taylor Boulevard, Louisville, KY 40215 502-366-4000 New Earth Garden Center 9810 Taylorsville Road, Louisville, KY 40299 800-462-5953 Worm’s Way Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
LOUISIANA Laughing Buddha Nursery 4516 Clearview Parkway, Metairie, LA 70006 504-887-4336
Urban Organics 285 St. Claude Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70117 504-352-4709
MAINE Green Thumb Indoor Gardening 19 Stage Road, St. Albans, ME 04971 207-938-5909 Urban Gardenstore, The 235 Lewiston Road, Topshan, ME 04086 207-373-0990
MARYLAND East Coast Organics 2800 Sisson Street, Baltimore, MD 21211 Healthy Gardens and Supply 5001-F Harford Road, Baltimore, MD 21214 443-708-5144 Maryland Hydroponics & Garden Supply 10-10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723 866-MD-HYDRO Meadowview Feed & Garden Center 1202 Meadowview Road, Pasadena, MD 21122 443-817-0018 Purple Mountain Organics 100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue, Takoma Park, MD 20912 877-538-9901
MASSACHUSETTS Green Path Garden Supply 276 West Main Street, Northborough, MA 01532 508-393-4181 LiquidSun® MA 8 Lynwood Avenue, Holyoke, MA 01040 413-539-6875 New England Hydroponics 15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10), Southampton, MA 01073 888-529-9025 Worm’s Way Massachusetts 121 Worc-Providence Turnpike, Sutton, MA 01590 800-284-9676
MICHIGAN BIg Creek Hydroponics 555 Old Little Lake Road, Marquette, MI 49855 906-249-5297 Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The 23529 Little Mack Avenue, St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080 586-775-9485 Growco Garden Supply 1042 Michigan Street, NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49503 877-939-6900 Home Grown Hydroponics 8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C, Saginaw MI 48609 989-781-1930 Homelight Gardens 3471 S. Huron Road, Bay City, MI 48706 989-922-0088 Horizen Hydroponics 1614 Leonard Street, NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49504 866-791-7057
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
HotHydro® 5245 Jackson Road, Suite F Ann Arbor, MI 48103 734-761-5040; 877-893-0716 Hydroharrys.com 24500 Dequindre, Warren, MI 48091 800-461-8819 Hydrospot 34236 Michigan Avenue, Wayne, MI 48184 734-722-1285 J&L Growco 206 S. Michigan Avenue, Big Rapids, MI 49307 231-796-1528 Kalamazoo Indoor Garden 450 W. Maple, Kalamazoo, MI 49001 269-344-2550 Light Green Water 3661 Highland Road, Waterford, MI 48329 248-681-0001 SH Hydroponics Inc. 115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A, Ypsilanti, MI 48198 734-879-4014 Sunshine Supply Co. 1807 South Mission, Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858 989-775-3700 Superior Growers Supply 19582 Middlebelt Road, Livonia, MI 48152 248-473-0450 Superior Growers Supply 4870 Dawn Avenue, East Lansing, MI 48823 517-332-2663 The Grow Store 721 W. Blue Star Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-421-5191 Van Hydro 7480 N State, Davison, MI 48423 810-653-8267 Wild Child 7740 M 72 East, Traverse City, MI 49690 866-711-GROW
MINNESOTA American Garden Supply 601-6th Avenue, North, Princeton, MN 55371 763-631-0543 Brew and Grow 8179 University Avenue, Fridley, MN 55432 612-780-8191 EcoGarden Supply 1553 Como Avenue, Suite B St. Paul, MN 55108 Eden Indoor Organic Gardens 831 Highway 75 North Moorhead, MN 56560 218-477-EDEN (3336) Indoor Gardening 10 NE 3rd Street, Faribault, MN 55021 507-209-1546 Interior Gardens 115 -1620 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 800-498-4178; 612-870-9077
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Midwest Hydroponics 3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis, MN 55416 888-449-2739 Still-H2O Inc. 14375 North 60th Street, Stillwater, MN 55082 651-351-2822
Lorraine Ink 290 Spear Court, Fernley, NV 89408 775-575-7757 Nevada Hydroponics 4700 B Maryland, Suite 1, Las Vegas, NV 89119 702-798-2852
MISSOURI
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Divine Hydroponics 301 North Bishop Avenue, Rolla, MO 65401 573-426-2348 Grow Your Own Hydroponics 3617 Saint John Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64123 816-241-2122 Green Circle Hydroponics 12 East Missouri, Kansas City, MO 64106 816-421-1840 Heartland Hydroponics 5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L, Columbia, MO 65202 HYDROGARDENS 573-474-GROW (4769) Let It Grow - Springfield 2519 E. Kearney Street, Springfield, MO 65803 417-862-GROW Let It Grow - Girardeau 879 S. Kings Highway, Cape Girardeau, MO 63703 573-803-0628 U-Grow 1724 North, 13th Street, St. Louis, MO 63106 314-452-6368 Worm’s Way Missouri 1225 North Warson Road, St. Louis, MO 63132 800-285-9676
Hydro World 17 White Birch Lane, Lincoln, NH 03251 603-745-3030
NEBRASKA Advanced Hydro-Ponics 10711 Mockingbird Drive, Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q) 402-991-6630 Paradigm Gardens 8949 J Street, Suite 5, Omaha, NE 68127 402-339-4949 Patio-Ponics 3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4 Lincoln, NE 68504 402-466-9218
NEVADA AAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter 2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21, Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-450-4769 Advanced Gardens Hydroponics 3111 South Valley View, Suite V103 Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-257-4769 All American Hydroponics 2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8, Las Vegas, NV 89120 702-894-9888 Anything Grows 190 West Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89509 775-828-1460 Carson Valley Hydroponics 2520 Empire Ranch Road, Carson City, NV 89701 775-884-4769
NEW JERSEY 77HYDRO 37 Fairfield Place, West Caldwell, NJ 07006 877-774-9376 Claraqua 4 Redwood Court, West Windsor, NJ 08550 East Coast Horticultural Supply 1652 Hurffville Road, Swewell, NJ 08080 856-228-5290 Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc. 888 Route 33, Unit 1, Hamilton, NJ 08619 609-570-8829
greentouch2
NEW MEXICO
HYDROP O N I C S
AHL Garden Supply 1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE, Albuquerque, NM 87108 505-255-3677 Common Shaman 1319 San Mateo N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87110 505-255-6463
NEW YORK California Hydroponics 27 Corporate Circle, East Syracuse, NY 13057 315-432-9387 East Coast Hydroponics 14649 Horace Harding Exp, Flushing, NY 11367 718-762-8880 Environmental Gardens 8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310 Peekskills, NY 10566 800-254-0507; 914-736-6676 FutureGarden Inc. 59 Central Avenue, Farmingdale, NY 11735 516-420-0884 Greentree Nursery 308 Elmira Road, Ithaca, NY 14850 607-272-3666 Grow Room, The 8 Bridge Street, Nyack, NY 10960 800-449-9630 Harvest Moon Hydroponics Henrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road, Rochester, NY 14623 716-865-7353 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 340 West at 59, Central Nyack, NY 10960 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 147 Fourth Street, Troy, NY 10960
I N C .
Hudson Valley Hydroponics 217 Route 32 North, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-3633 Hydro Garden Center 1069B Lyell Avenue, Rochester, NY 14606 1-800-277-1322 Hydroponics of Buffalo 1497 Hertel Avenue, Buffalo, NY 14216 716-838-3545 Hydroponics Shops of America 2606 Erie Boulevard, Syracuse, NY 13224 315-251-2516 Indoor Outdoor Gardener 8223 5th Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11209 718-836-2402 KG Garden Supply 1327 Floyd Avenue, Rome, NY 13440 1-877-KG-HYDRO Saratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply 19 Front Street, Ballston Spa, NY 12020 518-885-2005; 800-850-4769 Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics 2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13, Niagara Falls, NY 14304 888-GROWBOX
NORTH CAROLINA Be Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening 4732 Monroe Road, Charlotte, NC 28205 704-344-8010 BWGS East 4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400 Charlotte, NC 28214 800 316 1306 Fifth Season Gardening Company 45 Banks Avenue, Asheville, NC 28801 828-253-4112 Fifth Season Gardening Company 106 South Greensboro Street, Carrboro, NC 27510 919-932-7600 Fifth Season Gardening Company 1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue, Greensboro, NC 27408 336-271-3373 Fifth Season Gardening Company 5619-A Hillsborough Street, Raleigh, NC 27606 919-852-4747 Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center 4521 Cumberland Road, Fayetteville, NC 28306 910-423-FLOW (3569) New Age Gardens 2236A US Highway 70, Swannanoa, NC 28778 828-299-9989 Progressive Gardens 6005 Oleander Drive, Wilmington, NC 28403 910-395-1156 Urban Organics and Hydroponics 4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106, Greensboro, NC 27407 336-316-0604 Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics 107 South White Street, Wake Forest, NC 27587 919-562-5343
OHIO Advanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center 5204 Darrow Road, Hudson, OH 44236 234-380-1287 Akron Garden Center 1749 South Main Street, Akron, OH 44319 330-724-2700 Blooming Gardens 1805 Elm Road, Warren, OH 44483 330-372-1039 Cleveland Garden Center Inc. 727 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44119 216-481-7868 CropKing 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Carefree Garden Center 134 West Drive, Lodi, OH 44254 330-302-4203 Dayton Hydroponics 3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449 937-859-3999 Garden Indoors of Ohio 4720 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 800-833-6868 Harvest Moon 9215 Market Street, Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452 800-776-8399 Garden Grove Organics 29 East 7th Street, Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011 859-360-1843 Grow Wizard, The 5700 Denison Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44102 216-961-2500 Herb-N-Garden Center 14901 Puritas Avenue, Cleveland, OH 44135 216-252-2001 Indoor Garden Worx 906 Blue Avenue, Zanesville, OH 43701 866-900-9679 Indoor Gardens 1222 Hill Road, North, Pickerington, OH 43147 614-866-6065 Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic 10740 Reading Road, Cincinnati, OH 45241 513-769-0159 Magic Home Gardens 209 Cemetery Road, Canal Winchester, OH 43110 614-837-2440 Magic Home Garden 4538 Indianola Avenue, Columbus, OH 43214 614-263-2440 Summit Hydroponics 1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114 330-753-5222 Sweet Greens 5540 Brecksville Road Independence, OH 44131 800-421-7084 Super Harvest 5956 A Colerain Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45239 513-385-5999
Toledo Hydroponics Ltd. 855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2 Toledo, OH 43615 1-877-893-0716 Trinity Hydro Organics 435 Woodman Drive Riverside, OH 45431 937-252-GROW Worm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky 1360 Donaldson Road (Route 236), Suite A, Erlanger, KY 41018 800-669-2088
OKLAHOMA AAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74, Oakhurst, OK 74050 Tulsa County Hydro-Organics 1928 W. Albany, Broken Arrow, OK 74012 918-259-HYDRO Urban Garden 3141 E. 15th Street, Tulsa, OK 74104 918-289-0018
OREGON American Agriculture 9220 Southeast Stark Street, Portland, OR 97216 800-433-6805 Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply 93779 B Troy Lane, Coos Bay, OR 97420 541-266-8822 Aqua Serene 2836 W. 11, Eugene, OR 97402 541-485-2171 Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens 1090 Benson Way, Ashland, OR 97520 541-482-7600 Basin Indoor Gardening 1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601 541-273-2023 B.I.G.S. 155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401, Bend, OR 97702 541-385-5222 BIGS Warehouse 2606 SW 4th Street, Unit B Redmond, OR 97756 541-504-8886 Cascade Horticulture 39570 Pioneer Boulevard, Sandy, OR 97055 503-668-8242 Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics 5490 Philomath Road, Corvallis, OR 97333 541-738-2820 Everybody’s Garden Center 2701 SE 14th Avenue, Portland, OR 97202 800-669-5483 Garden Spout, The 4532 South East 63rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 503-788-4769 Gorge Garden Center 1203 12th Street Suite H, Hood River, OR 97031 541-386-GROW Gorilla Garden Supply 1810 Virginia Avenue, North Bend, OR 97459 Garden Supplies 541-756-5005
MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009
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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors
Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply 2021 West Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-779-8600 Grow America Garden Supply LLC 11511 SW Pacific Highway, Tigard, OR 97223 503-841-6868 Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics) 817 W. 2nd Street, Medford, OR 97501 Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics 930 SE Textron Drive, Bend, OR 97702 541-382-4010 Homegrown Garden Supply 7112 NE Gilsan Street, Portland, OR 97213 877-EZ2-GROW Indoor Garden Center 1697 SE 25th Street, Salem, OR 97302 503-566-7888 Indoor Garden Depot 15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard, Milwaukie, OR 97267 503-786-2445 Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center 909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217 503-546-3185 J-N-B Hydro 2 Go 155 West Central Avenue, Sutherlin, OR 97479 541-459-9211 Ladybug Indoor Gardens 3960 W. Main Street, Medford, OR 97501 541-618-4459 Lights Distributing 9843 SW 55th Avenue, Portland, OR 97219 Liquid Sun 1845 Southwest Highway 101, Lincoln City, OR 97367 541-994-7070 Northern Light and Garden Beaverton 9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005 503-297-7331 Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass 1203 Rogue River Highway, Grants Pass, OR 97527 541-474-1700 Northern Light and Garden Salem 1915 Lancester Drive, Salem, OR 97305 503-364-4769 Oregon Rainforest Co. 19949 E. Burnside Street, Gresham, OR 97233 503-465-9909 Paradise Supply Inc. 1409 N. Highway 99, Ashland, OR 97520 541-552-1037 Rain or Shine 13126 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-255-1981 Roots Garden Supply 5426 North Gay Avenue, Portland, OR 97217 503-285-4768 Roseburg Hydroponics 853 SE Stephens Street, Roseburg, OR 97470 541-229-1420
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SunInside Gardening Co. 665 Conger, Unit F, Eugene, OR 97402 541-686-9966 Urban Flora 2865 South East, Portland, OR 97214 503-236-3344 Wizard's Garden, LLC 621 Spruce Street, Unit C, Myrtle Point, OR 97458 541-572-2333
PENNSYLVANIA Full Bloom Hydroponics 84 South 24th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15203 888-872-3602 Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania 208 Route 13, Bristol, PA 19007 800-227-4567 Harvest Moon Hydroponics 1239 South Airport Road, Allentown, PA 18103 610-432-4949 Healthy Gardens and Supply 1012 Lincoln Avenue, Prospect Park, PA 19076 866-32-HYDRO High Tech Garden Supply 20232 Route 19, Unit 6, Cranberry Twp., PA 16066 724-473-1113 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 2008 Smallman Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412-232-7030 Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh 830 Route 119, Greensburg, PA 15601 724-836-1118
RHODE ISLAND LiquidSun® RI 1179 Central Avenue, Pawtucket, MA 02861 401-722-2724
SOUTH CAROLINA 247 Garden Supply 535 D Clemson Road, Columbia, SC 29229 803-788-4445 All Good Hydroponics & Gardening 6729 Two Notch Road, Columbia, SC 29223 803-708-4819 GreenSpirit Hydrogarden 1864 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29405 843-225-1GRO; Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More 1230 Rutherford Road, Greenville, SC 29609 864-271-8830
TENNESSEE Advanced Hydroponic Garden 783 French Mill Road, Dandridge, TN 37725 800-521-1643 Advanced Hydroponic Garden 6912 Clinton Highway, Knoxville, TN 37921 866-938-3318
All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co. 924 8th Avenue, South, Nashville, TN 37203 800-790-2188 Atlantis Hydroponics 1800 Rossville Avenue, #3, Chattanooga, TN 37408 423-752-5400 National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply 126 Belinda Parkway, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122 888-265-9005 Perpetual Harvest 75 Riverport Drive, Jackson, TN 38301 877-422-3391 Sun City Hydroponics 2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104, Memphis, TN 38133 901-372-8100 Worm’s Way Tennessee 707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite E Goodlettsville, TN 37072 800-397-4153 TEXAS Airline Hydroponics P.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363, Houston, TX 77098 713-942-0484 Botani Hydroponics & Organics 7730 Highway 6 South Houston, TX 77083 281-575-1999 Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics 4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310, Austin, TX 78745 512-444-2100 Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies 5302 Slide Road Unit B, Lubbock, TX 79414 806-793-2901 GreenMaker Nursery 3030 Northwest Loop, Stephenville, TX 76401 254-965-7273 GroGreen Hydroponics 4015 Main Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-370-9984 Happy Harvest 1500 Crescent Drive, #202 Carrollton, TX 75006 972-820-9376 Houston Discount Hydroponics 9384 Richmond Avenue, Houston, TX 77063 713-464-9406 Hydro Mart 3841 Main Street, Rowlett, TX 75088 972-475-6114 Innergrow Hydroponics 24451 Interstate Highway 20, Wills Point, TX 75169 866-475-4769 Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies) 13628 Neutron Road, Dallas, TX 75244 (866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555 Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics 1302 Motor Circle, Dallas, TX 75207 214-634-9376
Sol Organics & Hydroponics 1634 Babcock Road, San Antonio, TX 78229 210-366-9082 Texas Growers Supply 5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602, Humble, TX 77396 281-441-3739 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin) 5126 Burnet Road, Austin, TX 78756 512-459-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin) 2125-A Goodrich Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-440-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas) 3400 Elm Street, Dallas, TX 75226 214-744-4769 Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston) 7730 A Park Place Boulevard, Houston, TX 77087 713-641-4769 Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply 6125 West Sam Houston Parkway, North Suite 206 Houston, TX 77041 713-856-8425
UTAH Salt Lake Plant & Hydro 60 West 3300 S. #6, South Salt Lake, UT 84115 801-488-3200
VERMONT Green Thumb Gardening P.O. Box 235, Route 15, Underhill, VT 5489 800-564-9376 Greenthumb - Vermont 394 Route 15, Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323 LiquidSun® VT 1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North) Putney, VT 05158 802-387-1100
VIRGINIA Blue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co. 5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11 Roanoke VA 24012 540-265-2483 Clean & Green Technologies 196 Corning Drive, Christiansburg, VA 24073 866-694-1628 Hydroponics & Growlights 13400 Occoquan Road, Woodbridge, VA 22191 703-490-0700 I Love Hydroponics 612 N. Sheppard Street, Richmond, VA 23221 804-377-3020 I Love Hydroponics 368 Newtown Road, #105, Virginia Beach, VA 23462 757-490-5425 Inside-Out Garden Supply 6517 Backlick Road, Springfield, VA 22150 703-451-3259
WASHINGTON Aqua Serene 3839 Stone Way North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-GROW Eco Enterprises 1240 NE 175th Street, #B Shoreline, WA 98155 800-426-6937 Garden Smart 500 Bond Drive, Castlerock, WA 98611 360-274-7960 Green Gardens Distributing 12738 Bel-Red Road, Bellevue, WA 98005 425-454-5731 Hydro-Tech 2121 Aurora Avenue, North, Seattle, WA 98103 206-547-2202 Indoor Garden Depo 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Indoor Garden & Lighting 3839 6th Avenue, Tacoma, WA 98406 253-761-7478 Indoor Garden & Lighting 23303 Highway 99, Suite A, Edmonds, WA 98026 425-673-2755 Indoor Garden & Lighting 714 South Central Avenue, Kent, WA 98032 253-373-9060 Kent Garden Supplies Ltd. 18817 East Valley Highway, Kent, WA 98032 425-251-9299 Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics 11522 Canyon Road East, Puyallup, WA 98373 253-531-9641 Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics 5087 Lincoln Road, Blaine, WA 98230 M & R Lighting 17238 Memorial Drive, Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 360-848-1080 M & R Lighting Unit C 22914 Highway 410, Buckley, WA 98390 253-891-4190 National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply 5408 NE 88th Street, Building A, Vancouver, WA 98665 888-478-6544 Northern Light and Garden Vancouver 6305 NE Highway 99, Vancouver, WA 98665 360-993-7779 Northern Lights Gardening 4159 Hannegan Road, Bellingham, WA 98225 360-715-8585 Northwest Horticulture Supply 161 Hooker Road, #1, Sequim, WA 98057 360-582-0702 Renton Indoor Garden Center 207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A, Renton, WA 98055 425-917-9000
River City Hydroponics 1514 East Francis Avenue, Spokane, WA 99208 509-464-0246 Solar Shop 306 West 4th Street, Tonasket, WA 98855 509-486-4508 Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply 4823 East Sprague Avenue E., Spokane Valley, WA 99212 509-534-4055 WISCONSIN Aric's Indoor Garden Supply 1104 West Wisconsin Avenue, Appleton, WI 54914 920-574-3258 Brew and Grow 285 N. Janacek Road, Brookfield, WI 53045 262-789-0555 Brew and Grow 3317 Agriculture Drive, Madison, WI 53716 608-226-8910 Grow BIG Hydroponics 954 S. Westland, Appleton, WI 54914 920-749-4769 Paradigm Gardens 4539 Helgesen Drive, Madison, WI 53718 608-241-3800 PUERTO RICO Tecno-Hydro Ave Campo Rico GJ17, Carolina, PR 00982 787-752-8252
MY
WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS. ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTING MAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR RETAIL STORE? If so, pass along your contact information to us here at the magazine care of ilona@maximumyield.com and we will add your store’s name, address and telephone number to our distributor listing in an upcoming issue. Add your company logo to the distributor listings! Call 250-729-2677 or Email ilona@maximumyield.com
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COMING UP IN october
FEATURES
Hydroponic H2O: Water Quality and Treatment Just because the water coming out of your tap is clear and healthy for you, doesn’t mean your plants will feel the same way. Dr. Lynette Morgan describes what problem water looks like and solutions to them. Mauro Farms Superior Organics: Certified Organic Hydroponic Tomatoes On a recent trip to southern Colorado, Philip McIntosh visited one of the most productive agricultural regions in the US. In this article he introduces John Nicholas of Mauro Farms Superior Organics (Vineland, Colorado) and the keys to his success. Food Pyramid Production Lee McCall discusses growth enhancers, compost teas, nutrients, etc. and how to determine which brand is of the finest quality. The Fall Garden Tour Roland Evans takes the time to slow down and observe his once lush outdoor and greenhouse gardens, in order to learn from the success and failures of the last season. Effective Micro-Organisms Luis Bartolo examines Effective Micro-Organisms (EM) as one of the newest alternatives to achieve sustainable agriculture. How it’s made Maximum Yield introduces a new column, “How it’s made” featuring your favorite grow products. Sunlight Supply debuts their Sun System Reflector in our first-ever “How it’s made” article.
www.maximumyield.com Win Big! Grow Big! The third draw in Maximum Yield’s online reader contest, Win Big! Grow Big! has begun with prizes from Hydro-Logic, CO2 Boost, TurboKlone and Custom Automated Products. Enter online at www.maximumyield.com/winbig by October 15 for your chance to win. Visit www.indoorgardenexpo.com for all of the latest updates on the 2009/2010 Indoor Gardening expo tour dates. Add Orlando (November 7-8) to your calendar and Montreal (anticipated spring 2010).
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MAXIMUM YIELD USA - September 2009