SARTORIAL COLONIAL A JUNIOR COLLECTION AW 2016
PLEASE
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JUST GO!!
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PHOTO TITLE
ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES TRAVEL BOX
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DRIES VAN NOTEN THE TRIBE cultured mindset explorer retrived traditions
Living in a buzzing and hectic 24/7 society in one of the worlds metropolises? In an area where the mix of cultures is determining the street scene? Being caught in the everyday hustle and bustle whilst renting one of the cities rear house studios offer a place to escape- safe heaven? What does a glimpse out of the window reveal? The beauty of the neighbors grey in grey concrete house facade? The question is: where did nature stay? And isnt it about time to just get out of that daily routine and to take a break? tSecretly everybody is an explorer. Curiosity makes us hunt for the new. So just go and take the adventure to discover the far- off! Foreign cities, countries, continents with its foreign cultures and traditions. It is all about collecting impressions particularly about collecting memories.
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SARTO RIAL COLON IAL A CLEARLY STRUCTURED, FROM DIGITALIZATION RULED AND HECTIC 24/7 SOCIETY HAS TO UNPLUG.
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SARTORIAL COLONIAL
Egypt Paris Nubians Nile Cairo 20s
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OMO- The Joy Of Missing Out- becomes a new approach to life. Taking a step back means to escape from habitual structures and to soften the strict confines of sartorial dressing. To go toe- totoe with the “old world”- regions of the Meditteranean sea- consigns colonial colorfulness and its freedom in clothing. The boundaries between the old and new dissipate and marry effortlessly with new global signifiers.
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ARTIST TITLE
Moey Hoque LOST IN MOVEMENT
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L Living in the western world with its hectic, grey- and- drap temper, it is a pleasure to lighten the atmosphere with some colonialness. Even though the everyday life is caught in the same working day rhythm with its predetermined dress code, the need for comfort and liberation is intervening. The rigid and straightforward construction of the garments is central whilst a „colonial“ way of combining and and wearing the garments is relaxing the style- comfort without the sacrifice of sartorial standards.
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jus t
and Relax! jus t go and relax!chill jus t go and relax! Please jus t go jus t go and relax! jus t Go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! chill and pleas t jus t go!jus t go and relax! please jus t g jus t go and relax! go! go !Please jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax!Go! go!Please jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! go! Go! jus t go and relax! Please jus t go and relax jus t go and relax! chill jus t go and Relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t go and relax! jus t EGYPT 30° 3’ 0’’ N, 31° 15’ 0’’ O CAIRO 1 2 4 1 1
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go!
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C The color palette has as it`s base the darker and more muted colors. Dusty greys, deep blues, artichoke lilacs, fir greens and turquoises sit either boldly side by side or appear uni. A reference to the hectic, anonymous and digitalized society living on smallest spaces without even knowing each other. Beiges and off- whites lighten up the dark theme and add a touch of colonialness to resemble the southern Meditteranean culture.
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ARTIST TITLE
BALINT HUDECZ NUBIANLACHLAN
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES THEME 1 TEXTILESt
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Therefore the lineament of the 20s, when Orienta lism was one of the big movements and design aes the ti cs a t tha t ti me, is followed up. Women became more mannish. The wais t disappeared, the bus t fla t tened, shoulders became broader and hair much shor ter. A significant fea tu re is the dropped wais tline which does t´t have a fix posi ti on bu t ranges be tween hip and knee. This si mplyfied line wi th i ts relaxed te mper is confronted wi th the ti meless sophis ti ca ti on of acu tely cu t sui ti ng.
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES CARDIGAN
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T The print theme is mainly described by the „Burrows“-print. The clear and geometric shapes which sit boldly side by side are held in a dark color scheme and give a modern and contemporary feel. The collage technique is inspired by the British artist Nicolas Burrows who works with a very naive and childlike approach which is very simple and direct. The print is applied in two ways. Once it is used in its pure way on a thick but lustrous polyester- satin where the shapes are supported in volume with some padding another time the print is treated with a matt, dark blue houndstooth embroidery to create a distorted look. The houndstooth, as a classic pattern, is furthermore used as a stylistic element to underpin the sartorial flair. Besides the use in the Burrows- print in big scale it exists in smaller size as a dark blue and green print on a matt wool.
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DESIGN TITLE
K. MAYERHOFER BURROWS
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DESIGN TITLE
K. MAYERHOFER classic houndstooth
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ARTIST TITLE
OLGA BABYH CAIRO
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES CARDIGAN DETAILS
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CAIRO EGYPT
urban area population 17,8 (m) area (km) 1,194.86 City: 528 km
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airo is a vibrant, exhilarating, exotic, fascinating and welcoming city. It is the capital of Egypt and largest city in the Middle East and the Arab world. Even though it is a modern and metropolitan area it is still associated with the ancient Egypt. This doesn´t come from nowhere. Better be careful and watch out! You never know what incredible, half-forgotten monument you might stumble across while wandering around.
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T The colonial side of the first theme comes along with a thin stripe- pattern in light blue on a fluent cotton fabric. It reminds of the classic pinstripe but simultaneously is a typical sequence of stripes deriving from the Nubian history. Last is a print inspired by the refined jewelry of the Nubians. It is discreetly introduced as a monochrome print where the matt cotton- polyester mix stands in nice contrast to the glossy metal foil. To compensate the hectic mix of prints there are two uni fabrics which stand for themselves. A fluent cupro in dimgrey and a stiffer, bounded fabric which consists of a beige twill as a base layer and a polyester mash as top layer. A dark blue, raw denim is used to underline the workwear feel. The knit of the first theme is the Burrowsprint which is translated into a two colored jacquard knit pattern. It is all about the contrast of a shiny and smooth polyester yarn which is put into concurrence with a matt and hairy mohair.
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DESIGN TITLE
K. MAYERHOFER nubian stripes
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EXPLORE
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ANYM EXPLORER 20s
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It is the state of being caught in- beetween two worlds. The world which surrounds us everyday and a new world which needs to be discovered. Adapting to different conditions and surroundings is essential for a traveler. Either the climate, landscape or culture can become a great challenge so that it is necessary to be equipped. The solidity and rigidy from the sartorial construction is taken over, whilst the utility and convenience of a gament become the focus point. Multifunctionality, practicability and comfort are therefore inevitable ingredients. Consequently the strict confines dissipate and become more casual.
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look e s o cl EGYPT CAIRO
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How to be an explorer of the world
1.always be looking (noti ce the grou nd benea th your fee t.) 2.consider everyth ing alive & ani ma te. 3.everyth ing is interes ti ng. look closer ! 4.alter your course often. 5.observe for long dura ti ons (and shor t ones). 6.noti ce the s tories going on arou nd you. 7.noti ce pa t terns. make connecti ons ! 8.document your findings (field notes) in a varie ty of ways. 9.incorpora te inde terminacy. 10.observe movement. 11.crea te a personal dialogue wi th your environment. ta lk to i t ! 12.trace th ings back to their origins. 13.use all of the senses in your inves ti ga ti ons.
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES TRAVEL BOX
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S The silhouette of the orientalism is still the dominant lineament of the second theme. However it is slightly coming to the end of the 20s where the 30s have already their impact with the result that the waist is getting more important again. The feminine features become more visible. Nevertheless the main spirit stays laid- back.
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES TURTLE NECK
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES THEME 2 TEXTILES
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES HOUNDSTOOTH KNIT
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES RIB IMITATION
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The mainly dark color scheme is replaced. Ins tead the focus lies now on a range of different shades of fir greens and blacks which are ei ther used u ni or wi th in prints. The crea ted a tmosphere is clearly reflecti ng the charming and charissma ti c expedi ti oner. Added to tha t there are beiges, browns, tones of light blue and gold. These colors are mainly used in prints and embroidery to represent the grea t influence of Egypt. A bright tangerine orange is used as an accent color.
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In the second theme a great source of inspiration for prints are ancient wall- tiles which have their origin in the Egypt history. Those ceramics with shapes taken from the most important symbols of Egypt, namely the lotus flower and grape, are main print components. Either they are translated in a more literal way and small scale as an interlaced, all- over pattern on a smooth and fluent silk or can be found in a very modern collage- like, placement print in big scale on a stiff and shiny polyester- satin. Little ceramic- mosaic cubes in different earthy color tones are partly decorating the all over print. To keep a reference to the first theme, the Nubian print can be found now as golden embroidery on a heavy, fir green polyester- satin. To apply more of the expeditioner atmosphere there is uni dralon rib added in dark green and the bounded fabrics are now used separately to add some sportiness. The knit of this section is a classic houndstooth which is translated into a two colored jacquard knit pattern. The colors are held in a fir green creased cotton yarn which is put into contrast with a black smooth polyester yarn.
PHOTO TITLE
ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES SILK WITH TILE PRINT
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES STILL LIFE COMPOSITION
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GEORGE GERSTER THE FLOODED OLD LAND
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WASHED AWAY
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES SWEATER WITH NBIAN SHAPE
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W With the arrival at the Nile, which has once been the home of the Nubian folk, it feels as if time has become an unimportant feature. Dipping into this old culture means to career along the endless banks of the Nile to discover their former homes which are nowadays either sandy ruins at the riverside or nearly wiped away from the incessantly rising water level. With this surrounding environment the hustle and bustle of the everyday life is nearly forgotten. Dipping deeper into this foreign culture creates freedom from all strict confines of sartorial dressing and makes the style align more and more with the traditional silhouette. Hereby the beauty of the Nubian folk is exposed.
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A Adapting more and more to the traditional silhouette of the Nubian folk means that the lineament becomes detached from the body. The shape becomes wider and more elongated. It reflects comfort and the convenience of their way of dressing. Nevertheless the sartorial character is not forgottetn but comes back in the craftsmanship of garment details. The 20s are only recognizable in the layered look where the hipline still plays an important role.
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GEORGE GERSTER WOMEN OF THE VILLAGE ENJOYING POPCORN
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THE NUBIANS A FOLK LIVING AT THE BANKS OF THE NILE Nubians in Egypt peaceful people 1973
The life of the Nubian people no longer exists. Today they are resettled either in new communities or new lands in the north of the city of Aswan as the High Dam at Aswan has covered the houses and flooded the area where these people lived hundreds, perhaps thousands, of years. Yet Nubian culture, developed during a long history, has not been obliterated by the floodwaters. The values and techniques that allowed Nubians to live peacefully in a difficult environment in the past still persist to some extent in the new communities, helping these people to adjust to radically different patterns of life. In todays world minority groups are
constantly being uprooted from their native communities, where their traditional culture seems of little use in their new settings. Like the Nubians, most of mankind lived during the greater part of history in small, relatively isolated settlements and villages and slowly developed workable variation on the basic themes of human culture. Today the isolation necessary for such creativity is largely gone, and distinctive small communities themselves are vanishing, if not under the floodwaters of the Nile, then at least in the homogeneous mixture we call modern society.
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES EMBELLISHED BLOUSE
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES THEME 3 TEXTILES
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Jus t im
did s t a washed ayou way a already t the banks of the Nile srtart t swi mming! rising wa ter level old cultu re jus t washed a way Away! Away! swi nni ng!discover t h e Did you already s tar t swinning? Go to the banks of the nile Discover the u nknown washed a and way a t thethbanks of the Nile st tar t Nile e t r ibe t h a swi mming! rising wa ter level old cultu re jus t washed a way Away! has been washed a way Away! Did you already s tar t swinning?Go to the banks of the nile Discover the u nknown washed a way aswi t the banks of the be t t e r s t a r t mming Nile s tar t swi mming! rising wa ter level old cultu re jus t washed a way Away! sAway! tar t Diddiscover and you already stitang r t swinning? Go to the banksd cultu re jus t washed a way Away! Away! Did you already s t a r t please jus t go! a t t h e swinning?Go to the banks of the nile Discover the u nknown washed a way a t the banks banks e Nile Go! of the Nile s taof r t swithmming! rising wa ter EGYPT 30° 3’ 0’’ N, 31° 15’ 0’’ O CAIRO 1 2 4 1 1
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! ! m
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The color sheme is mainly influenced by the character of the cou ntry. Forgot ten are the dark and mu ted hues from the previous themes. Leading are the warm and bright colors to reflect the medi t teraneana tmosphere. It is abou t a range of beiges, blues and greys which to ge ther crea te the base. They are pu t into contras t wi th brighter colours like tangerine orange and lemon yellow to become more vibrant. Gold is adding the required lus ter.
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES MOHAIR TERRY CLOTH
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES bleached denim creased
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES TRANSPARENT SILK WITH GOLDEN METAL FOIL PRINT
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A As the third theme is mainly diving into the nubian culture, the print theme is focused on the wall tile print and shapes inspired by the traditional nubian jewelery. The wall tiles are either used in a bright colored collage- like way, this time on a floaty and shiny silk, to create a more contemporary approach or translated quite literal with a watery effect to incorporate the Nile. As embellishments this print has either the ceramic- mosaic cubes or is used as plain version but then together with leather embellishemnts. The embellishments and embroidery is mainly inspired by the lovely shaped Nubian jewelery and are applied in different ways. They are used in an all over way, as embellishments with a layered effect or in big scale as decoration at breast and shoulders. A refference to the first theme is the boldly, grey and yellow striped print which originally had a classic and more subtle appearance.
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ARTIST TITLE
GEORG GERSTER THE NILE
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ANNE- MÉE DE VRIES LEATHER EMBELLISHMENT DETAIL
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