Summer 2010 / € 5,–
Breathtaking
Spectacular aerial acrobatics on Mount Ahorn This edition of HÖHENLUFT can freeride, lift its wings and scale summits.
www.mayrhofen.at
Contents
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A well-rounded package Biking in Mayrhofen means stepping into the pedals for alpine adventure.
10 Heavenly yet diabolical ride Steep jumps and spectacular curves on the Mayrhofen trails Himmelfahrt & Höllenritt.
12 On the way up
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Top mountaineer Peter Habeler talks about the mountain as a challenge and point of rest.
16 Birds of prey within reach Mount Ahorn, the “leisure mountain”, is now enhanced by a spectacular attraction.
22 Farmer with heart and soul Gratzer Veitl had already known Brandberg before the technical progress.
24 Good hunting, Staude! The life of Floitenschlagstaude, Tyrol’s most famous female poacher.
Photos: Cover: Mayrhofen; Gerhard Berger, Mayrhofen
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26 Tempo, Tempo Markus Kröll, Austria’s most successful mountain runner, in the word rap.
28 A vertical wonderland Rock-Climber Gerhard Hörhager about the rocky hotspots of Mayrhofen.
30 Fiddled-up & rocked-out Roland Brandner is a singer and guitarist in a rock band as well as with fiddle music.
32 The center of life
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An English couple tells why they prefer Mayrhofen to their home on the Isle of Man.
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Facts about Mayrhofen
2010 Summer Season 18 April – 27 November 2010 Natural adventures on Mount Ahorn Circular route for epicures: Connection of wellness oases on the Ahorn Plateau Panorama platform with view of the Ahorn Plateau Grilling area Resting garden Adlerbühne Ahorn: Birds of prey demonstrations from June to October
Natural adventures on Mount Penken Two excellent rock climbing areas Starting place for paragliding Hiking trail suitable for pram Interconnected paragliding area Bicycle ergometer Two single-track trails: “Himmelfahrt” & “Höllenritt”
Mayrhofen: Rock Climbing El Dorado 27 sports climbing areas 11 alpine climbing areas 15 bouldering areas Level of difficulty: 3 to 9 (French scale)
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Run & Walk Park
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Hiking in Mayrhofen Circular hike to Steinerkogl, hike to the Berliner Hütte, hikes in the nature park, Hochalmweg Ginzling (high-altitude trail), trail to the Schönbichlerhorn, Schmugglerpfad Zamsgatterl-Pfitscherjoch (smuggler’s trail), Ginzling Maxhütte, “multiple-day classic” Berliner high-altitude trail, thematic trails in the “Gründen” valleys, “Neumark-
Photos: Mayrhofen, CUBE
ter Runde” from the “Schlegeisspeicher” reservoir and much more!
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A well-rounded package Biking in Mayrhofen means breathing deeply and stepping into the pedals for alpine adventure: curvy mountain roads, steep singletrack trails and leisurely riverside promenades. Mountain bikes as well as touring and racing bikes not only get going, but really get into gear in Mayrhofen.
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racing bike, a mountain bike and a touring bike meet in Mayrhofen. The massive-looking mountain bike says to the delicate racing bike: “Heavens, what a sight you are! Somebody really has to pump air into your tyres. Otherwise you’ll never make it down the steep curves, gravel-packed forest roads and root-covered trails on Mount Penken alive!” The click pedals of the racing bike clatter in full indignation as it retorts: “Pooh, suspension fork, disc brakes: I don’t need such gadgets! Yes, it would also be unnecessary, since root system and stones are not my terrain. I AM KING of the asphalt. Let’s roll down the Zillertal High Alpine Road. Then you can see my tyres from behind. At least as long as I am still in your eyeshot!” The touring bike responds to the squabbling only with a perky blinking with its cat’s eye reflectors: “Oh, you with your action and hectic. I ROLL leisurely along the Ziller riverside promenade. From there I have a splendid view of mountaintops, fauna as well as flora. I pass through many nice towns, and in the meantime I can lean on a cosy park bench to catch my breath. And if I’m too tired to ride back, I just get on board the Zillertal Railway and go home. Life can be so easy!”
Photos: Gerhard Berger
Peace, pleasure and biking fun WHow fortunate that the three don’t have to squabble about steering, because every bike finds the right run of the roads in Mayrhofen. There is even a place where 250 of the most varying bikes stand peacefully next to each other and wait to be rented by guests and taken into
their own special terrain. The “master” of these bikes is Sigi Rieger. “On a good day we rent about 150 bikes. Our guests are either underway with them in the sunny valley floor – in 2010 the bike path will be completely extended and signposted out to Jenbach – or they take a tour in one of the side valleys. Many take advantage of the Mount Penken cable railway in order to save a few metres in altitude to be eye to eye with the phenomenal panorama of Zillertal treats”, says the Styrian native, who now feels at home in the Zillertal. However, the Bike Station not only specialises in the rental of cube bikes, it also offers guided tours. So this helps guests to
“Within the shortest time you can be eye to eye with the phenomenal panorama of Zillertal treats!“ save the effort of constantly looking at the map in order to know the name of a mountain peak, get to know secret paths and ensures that they stop off at places where the refreshments taste best. Incidentally, the range of tours at the Bike Station is adapted to demand. So individual desires can be taken into consideration. Yet whoever bikes around on their own initiative will easily find their way around thanks to the wellsignposted trail network. Seventeen different tours alone on Mount Penken are waiting to be discovered by mountain bikers. The mountain cable railway offers the opportunity to take bikes
Everything by bike? No bike with you? No problem! These bike specialists are looking forward to meeting you! Bahnhof Mayrhofen (railway station) Bahnhof Ramsau Sport Fankhauser Tankstelle Obermair (petrol station) Rental bei Kaplenig Bicycle Holidays Max Hürzeler Eisenbacher Hervis Seasonality Test Centre About 30 hotels in Mayrhofen specialise in the needs of bicyclists and offer optimal service for athletes and their bikes.
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In Mayrhofen there is a variety of possibilities to romp around by bike: from athletically demanding to leisurely and regenerative. This makes everyone happy, including recreational as well as extreme bikers!
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Sigi, why did Bike Station settle in Mayrhofen? “Max Hürzeler has twenty years of experience with the organisation of bike sport holidays in Majorca and is the market leader there. So we know what a good business depends on and hit the bull’s eye in Mayrhofen. With the Bike Station in Mayrhofen we have an optimal mainstay in order to offer our guests a long season. The Zillertal simply offers perfect prerequisites for biking, in terms of infrastructure as well as in terms of standard. Trails, accommodations and fine culinary experiences are at a top level.” “Mayrhofen has a broad range of guests. And we have a broad range of bikes. Everybody will find their luck on two wheels in Mayrhofen: speed-hungry racing bike riders, adrenaline-addicted downhill enthusiasts, fitness-oriented mountain bikers, pleasure-oriented touring bike enthusiasts – there is a wide variety of possibilities for everyone to romp around by bike.”
along so that guests can start at a higher altitude “above things”. The trail network – sometimes athletically demanding, sometimes leisurely and regenerative – makes everyone happy, including recreational as well as extreme bikers. Racing bike riders will be particularly pleased. Thanks to alpine water reservoir construction, asphalted roads even lead deep into picturesque side valleys. The catchwords here are Stilluptal and Zillergrund. Visitors always have at least one part of the 55 three thousand metre peaks in the Zillertal in their field of vision!
Photos: Mayrhofen/CUBE
Up, down and straight ahead Sigi, who notches up about 20,000 kilometres a year in the saddle of a bike, reveals his favourite mountain bike tours to us: In order to save energy, ascent up to the panorama trail along the Gschößwand with the Mountain Penken cable railway. On a not-too-steep gravel road you will reach the Penkenjoch saddle (where you should
absolutely stop to feast on a tasty Kaiserschmarrn [shredded pancake with powdered sugar & raisins]), and from there the action continues via the Wanglalm down to Vorderlanersbach. “This is a beautiful tour with a superb panorama”, he explains. If you are tired of riding the cable gondola up Mount Penken, riding up the 1,150 metres in elevation by bike is also an optimal training route for all those who want to take part in the three-day Zillertal Bike Challenge (see info box). When Sigi is underway with a racing bike, he tests the fitness of his calves on the Zillertal High Alpine Road. If this sounds “too steep”: with 800 kilometres of optimally developed bike routes on which you can cover up to 30,000 metres in altitude difference altogether, the right tour should be in the works for any biking enthusiast. And should you ever run out of energy and not be in the vicinity of one 130 alpine huts altogether, the best (legal) doping is nevertheless readily available: dream panorama and clear mountain air!
Bike Challenge Mountain bikers watch out! Those who don’t shy away from optionally covering approx. 10,000 or approx. 5,000 metres in altitude and 200 or 150 kilometres by bike within three days – from 2 to 4 July 2010 – can register at www. zillertal-bikechallenge.com And the popular Women‘s Bike Camp will be held in Mayrhofen from 19 to 21 August 2010!
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Responsible for the steep jumps and spectacular curves on the Mayrhofen trails: Alex Ganster
Heavenly yet diabolical ride First comes the ascent into heaven, and if you have overcome that, a real diabolical ride follows. Unfair? The freeriders who come to Mayrhofen with their full-suspension bikes are of a different opinion here. Do you dare? Himmelfahrt route profile Whole route: 2.61 km Highest point: 1,940 m Total downhill gradient: 294.4 m Höllenritt route profile Whole route: 3.95 km Highest point: 1,650 m Total downhill gradient: 650 m
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he continually growing freeride community knows that an insult to St. Peter is not to blame if you descend from heaven to hell. It suffices to have your bike transported by the Mayrhofen cable railway to the action on Mount Penken. Once you arrive at the start of the “Almdudler Himmelfahrt” (“Ascension”), the single-track trail opened at the start of 2009, be prepared: put on your full-face helmet, back protector and other joint guards, and then enjoy adrenaline-packed fun! The action encompasses an altitude of 2,000 metres, in
which case the Himmelfahrt with its downhill gradient of nearly 300 metres and length of 2.6 kilometres lies before you. It is riddled with fluid, yet negotiable steep curves, jumps, S-curves with drop possibilities, wooden bridges and the long “North Shore Wall Ride”. “The North Shore Wall Ride is a terrific dalliance. The thing has a radius of nearly ten metres and is four metres high at the highest point”, relates Alex Ganster, who constructed the trail. After nearly two months of route construction with the aid of walking excavators, shovels and muscle power,
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Photos: CUBE (3), Mayrhofner Bergbahnen (1), private (1)
Breathtaking views, steep curves and racy downhill rides ensure liberating adrenaline kicks while freeriding.
which were preceded by an exact analysis of the terrain, he knows the two successive trails – Himmelfahrt and “Höllenritt” (“Diabolical Ride”) – like the back of his hand. “At the end of the Himmelfahrt trail at the Horberg summit station, you can either ride back to the start of the Himmelfahrt or ride down into the valley on the gruff Höllenritt terrain. The Höllenritt is an extremely narrow trail in its natural state, which really keeps you moving with quite a few treats such as hairpin bends and tricky counterclimbs.”
Adrenaline & risk What sounds like a suicide mission for the average biker is erroneous: “Freeriding is not an extreme sport in which there are uncontrollable elements such as avalanches. This sport entails controlled risk in which one attempts to go to their limits. “The brain is just as important as functioning brakes in this connection”, relates Alex, who has never seriously injured himself in the course of his freeride career.
The bill for overestimation of your capabilities is immediately presented to you anyway when freeriding. It’s good that there are so-called “chicken ways” along the two trails, especially if someone sanely advises skipping one obstacle or another. Himmelfahrt and Höllenritt are constructed so that downhill pros as well as amateurs have fun, because: “The variety makes the adventure. A good trail has to have a flow. A good mixture of technical challenges and speedy stretches ensures this”, says Alex, who rides through heaven and hell about six times a week. The way before then was not easy, since the weather during the construction was as wet as purgatory has to be hot: “Despite a season which was not particularly optimal in terms of weather, which partially wreaked havoc on the trails, I have only received positive feedback”, says Alex happily, who on sunny day was able to count up to 150 downhill riders on the “playground”. So the downhill public should be curious about what else will be concocted in the future.
Freeriding Is this something for me? As long as you are not an exercise dyslexic you can learn the technique necessary for freeriding. Even pussycats can be cautiously acquainted with the techniques and introduced to single-track trail fun by the right teacher. Apropos right teacher: Alex Ganster will gladly go on a freeride tour with you, too!
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On the way up Top mountaineer Peter Habeler talks about the mountain as a challenge and point of rest, the fascination in hiking, testing one’s own fitness and his Zillertal summits. 12
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Peter Habeler includes the “hut experience” as part of an alpine tour. For him it is part of the alpine culture and first rounds off the alpine experience: the Kasseler (left) and the Olperer huts are popular rest stops for refreshments and lodging.
Photos: private (1), Mayrhofen (2)
Höhenluft: Peter, you are one of the world’s greatest and most popular mountaineers of our time. You were on the go quite often, but you always gladly returned to the Zillertal. Why? Peter Habeler: I am born and raised here. I am simply a Zillertaler – one who always gladly comes home, but also gladly goes away again. I was on the go quite often in my life. For instance, I have experienced many beautiful things in the mountains of South America, in the Himalayas and in the Karakoram mountains. In the meantime, I have also been in Nepal so often that it has almost become a second home. But I am at home here in Mayrhofen. In particular, I relate very closely with the Zillertal Alps. They were the driving force for me to come back over and over again. Höhenluft: How did you actually get involved in mountaineering? Peter Habeler: My father died early and my mother had to work quite a bit, therefore my brother and I grew up quite self-reliant. So I simply marched off as a little lad: to the Ahornspitze, Kolm or Grinberg – everything which was reachable from Mayrhofen. I was enthusiastic and inquisitive, and experienced colossal gratification in hiking and climbing. In the process I got to know many mountain guides and learned from them. I was always fortunate that at the right time I met the right people,
who challenged and encouraged me. For instance, I can still quite fondly remember Toni Volgger, who taught me not to take slow steps in the mountains, because speed is safety. This has characterised my entire further alpine life. From a very early age I made sure that I did not fiddle around too long, that I reached my goal, arrived at the summit and then returned again to the safety of the valley. Then at age 16 I even earned my first shillings as an assistant mountain guide. I was happy guiding. I was in my beloved mountains and also even earn a little money while doing so. That’s why it was soon clear to me that I wanted to train as a mountain guide. Höhenluft: What fascinates you about moving around in the mountains? Peter Habeler: In former times, everything up there in the mountains was simply new. I liked the athletic activity and testing my own fitness. I wanted to go to my limits, or rather overcome these limits. I always understood steep mountain faces as a challenge that I wanted to take. I simply wanted to go to the top. I set a goal for myself, wanted to get up to the summit, and always made sure that I got up as quickly and safely as possible. With first ascents there was the additional attraction of the known, which was fascinating: to do something new, to experience something that nobody has experienced
Personal data Mayrhofen-born Peter Habeler, born in 1942, became world-famous in 1978 as together with Reinhold Messner he succeeded in the first ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen. Further successful expeditions to eight thousand metre peaks followed, e.g. to Nanga Parbat or Cho Oyu. Peter Habeler manages an “Ski & Alpine School” in Mayrhofen together with his son Christian, is a courtsworn expert for Alpinism, and gives lectures. In 1999 he was awarded the title of Professor for his merits in alpine safety.
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Many summits can be climbed and natural beauties can be experienced from Mayrhofen.
Enchanting scenic hikes can also be found at the far end of the Zillertal ...
‌ as well as technically demanding high-altitude tours, unique ridge climbing and superlative alpine panoramas.
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beforehand and to overcome difficulties. It is a great satisfaction when everything has functioned. Ultimately, mountaineering is a battle against one’s weaker self. And I always gladly fought this battle. Perhaps the performance is of less immediate importance and the experience is more important today. And naturally I am no longer so impetuous and wild, and I set limits. But naturally I continue to have my goals: goals and challenges which are in keeping with my ability and condition. HÜhenluft: The mountain as a challenge? Peter Habeler: Of course, mountains are not only a challenge, but also a point of rest for me. I always walk very fast if I am underway alone. I almost dance and also jump. It is a great pleasure for me to rhythmically and purposefully place one foot ahead of the other, to choose the next step quickly and precisely. I am an ardent walker. Walking is actually the measure of all things. Long walks, extensive hiking is meditative as well as balm for the body and soul. Even if I leave home in a bad mood because something is going through my head that I cannot resolve,
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What attracts you over and over again to Mayrhofen, Peter Habeler? I feel very bound with this valley and the countryside in which I grew up. The mountains here are simply the most beautiful! When I drive in from the Inn Valley, all the way out there near Fügen, and I see the Löffler shining in the sun, see the western flank and the precipitous eastern ridge — well, that is a mountain! It stands in here like an eight thousand metre peak, almost like the Makalu: so sharp-edged, simply fantastic! I enjoy that I can withdraw into one of the quiet valley within the shortest time here. Exactly for that reason I also understand the people who want to get out of the big city and seek peace and quiet of the confrontation with nature here with us, or those who want to do sports so that they can distance themselves from the daily grind.
Photos: Mayrhofen (3), Archiv Peter Habeler (1), Michael Rathmayr (1), Paul Sürth (2)
as soon as I am on the go, on the way up, this feeling of unease drops away from me. I have time to dwell on my thoughts in order to straighten out the standards again. The mind becomes clear. I go up to a summit, and when I come down again I am a different person. Höhenluft: You are still active as a mountain guide. Which experience do you wish for your protégées? Peter Habeler: Yes, I still gladly do that with a passion. The beautiful thing about conveying the knowledge of mountaineering is that the people have fun on the mountain. Fantastic weather, a wonderful environment where one sees and experiences the summit, when one finally comes back down again safe and sound, and the guest is satisfied, happy because of all the impression. — that makes everything fun. What is close to my heart is making people aware that the simplicity is also a fascination of mountains. One walks, rests, arrives at an alpine hut and eats there. One has a goal in front of their eyes, reaches the summit and comes down again. This is simply living consciously. I believe that is very important. If I go to an alpine hut, I cannot expect a hotel. I need a certain willingness to adjust to a different life, which is unfortunately not easy for some people who are accustomed to consuming.
Höhenluft: In your book “Das Ziel ist der Gipfel” (“The Goal is the Summit”) you write that “the most beautiful mountains are at home”. Do you have a few tips for our HÖHENLUFT readers? Peter Habeler: The Zillertal Alps offer everything you can ask for as a mountaineer: steep faces with extreme levels of difficulty, unique ridge climbing, rewarding high-altitude tours, enchanting scenic hikes, cosy alpine huts and, if you like, also solitude. Even if the Zillertal is very developed, much of the valley’s originality has been preserved. In addition to alpine goals accessible on normal routes, such as Reichenspitze, Wollbachspitze, Großer Löffler, Großer Möseler and Olperer, mountain hikes from hut to hut are in vogue again. The Zillertaler Höhenweg (Zillertal High Alpine Trail) from the Kasseler Hütte to the Geraer Hütte is regarded as one of the most beautiful crossings of the entire Eastern Alps. On the northern side of the main chain of the Alps, a very nicely arranged steep track leads from one hut to another. The daily stages vary between four and six hours of hiking. I can also recommend the Siebenschneidenweg – the crossing from the Edelhütte to the Kasseler Hütte – to particularly ambitious alpine hikers. Easier alternatives also recommendable in the event of poor weather are also available in the area around Mayrhofen, Lanersbach and Finkenberg; for instance, from Brandberg to the Kolmhaus or from Mayrhofen to the Edelhütte.
Worth reading “Das Ziel ist der Gipfel“ Tyrolia Verlag, 200 Seiten. Peter Habeler relates his greatest alpine experiences in personal texts and conversations with renowned alpinist author Karin Steinbach.
“Der einsame Sieg“ Frederking & Thaler, 219 Seiten. Peter Habeler describes the enthralling adventure of the first ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen apparatus, which he shared with Reinhold Messner.
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Birds of prey within reach Adlerbühne Ahorn. Bird of prey locality Mount Ahorn, the “leisure mountain”, is now enhanced by a spectacular attraction. Birds of prey such as eagles, buzzards and eagle owls have found a home here. Falconer Didi Wechselberger and his team provide unique insights into the lifestyle habits of the animals during their demonstrations with the “kings of the skies”. And in a HÖHENLUFT interview behind the scenes!
Photos: Michael Rathmayr
Höhenluft: Didi, you have pursued the most varying professions in the past. You were one of the first who have pursued the numerous extreme sports. You were active in the field of personal security and also an enthusiastic alpine hut proprietor. When did you know that you would like to be a falconer? Didi Wechselberger: I already felt attracted to animals as a small boy, which was fantastic, since I grew up at the Edelhütte at an elevation of 2,200 metres above sea level. Up there I was on the go outside the entire day, looking around and observing everything. I remember quite well how I could sit for hours on end in front of a marmot den in which a mother with her seven cubs lived. The little ones jumped all around me and crawled up me. They had fully accepted me. And one day I even managed to catch a chamois. The relationship with birds of prey was also always there. An eagle had his eyrie not far from us, and I observed it for many hours until I noticed that it had also accepted me. Höhenluft: And how did you get involved with falconry? Didi Wechselberger: After I had worked in personal security for over six years and escorted stars such as Eros Ramazotti, Joe Cocker and Peter Maffay, I returned to Mayrhofen and with my family leased an alpine inn in the Stilluptal. There it turned out that we had space for aviaries and I kept a few birds there – amongst others Lenny, the Harris Hawk, which I still have under my wing to this day. I was so preoccupied with the animals that I started training as a falconer and gave demonstrations before my guests. Höhenluft: What accounts for your fascination with falconry? Didi Wechselberger: It is the coexistence of man and animal characterised by mutual accep-
tance. Only the falconer who always attempts to see with the eyes of the bird and repeatedly tries to put himself in the bird’s place will perfectly harmonise with his bird. One can learn many things, yet whoever does not wholeheartedly attempt to understand the language of birds will probably never be a satisfied falconer. Höhenluft: Well, you certainly may be a very satisfied falconer. After all, the Adlerbühne Ahorn was constructed in the spring and summer of 2009. How die the idea of the Adlerbühne come about? Didi Wechselberger: Three years ago I developed an initial concept for birds of prey demonstrations in Mayrhofen and discussed it with Mayor Günter Fankhauser, who in his function as a member of the supervisory board
„ Yet whoever does not wholeheartedly attempt to understand the lan guage of birds will prob ably never be a satisfied falconer.“ of the Mayrhofen Mountain Railways then made contact with the mountain railway. Then in the spring of 2009 the Mayrhofen Mountain Railways initiated an elaborate official process which ultimately ended with the fact that in August of last year we were collectively able to inaugurate a sensational stage – the Adlerbühne Ahorn (i.e. “Mount Ahorn Eagle Stage”) – in the course of an initial test phase with six birds.
The “Stars” STEPPI – Steppe Eagle The impressive Steppe Eagle has a wingspan of up to 190 cm. LENNY – Harris Hawk The body length lies between 45 and 60 cm. Its wingspan is nearly 120 cm. JESSY & ROCKY – Red-tailed Hawks They are up to 63 cm tall. There are 14 subspecies, which are coloured differently, but all have a “red” tail. BILLY & VIRGINIA – Great Horned Owls The Great Horned Owl reaches a wingspan of up to 150 cm and is thus amongst the largest owls altogether.
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Fascinating creatures: Didi Wechselberger is a falconer with heart and soul, and knows the sensitivities of his birds at any point in time. Above: Red-tailed Hawk ROCKY; below: STEPPI, the breathtaking eagle.
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Birds of prey demonstrations on Mount Ahorn at 2,000 m Daily at 2 pm, from 12 June to 10 October 2010. Eagles and other birds of prey fascinate visitors at the new Adlerbühne Ahorn in Mayrhofen with spectacular aerial acrobatics. You can experience the impressive and elegant animals at close range on the leisure mountain Mount Ahorn in the course of informative birds of prey demonstrations. While the birds circle proudly and loftily above your heads, the professional falconers talk about the habits and capabilities of the small and large birds of prey. In order to be able to ensure an optimal integration in the existing natural space, exclusively natural construction materials such as wood, stone and earth were utilised for the Adlerbühne on Mount Ahorn. It offers space for approximately 800 spectators. More info is available at: www.mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com
Photos: Michael Rathmayr, Mayrhofner Bergbahnen
Höhenluft: How does your demonstration differ from others? Didi Wechselberger: As a mater of principle we do not have so many birds in our show, which is why it is possible to deal so intensively with the animals. And naturally that is reflected in a very close relationship with the bird. None of our birds has ever escaped and flown away. I talk about the lifestyle habits of animals as well as the beauty and fragility of our ecosystem along with its complex and sensitive connections. And that is only possible up here on Mount Ahorn in the immediate natural habitat of several birds of prey. Höhenluft: What fascinates the visitors most of all? Didi Wechselberger: People are still most of all impressed with the proximity to the animal itself, which really is a very extraordinary encounter. No matter whether it concerns the eagle or the eagle owl, our birds are naturally something very special, since they are accustomed to the Adlerbühne activities and accept the proximity of people. For instance, on the weekends, Roy and I together with my son Thomas can also present the birds up close to the visitors in a demonstration featuring Ger-
man and English language. The beak from our “Steppi” or the huge eyes from our “Billy” fascinate our guests. Höhenluft: You have developed the “Falconer for a Day” programme with the mountain lifts for those who cannot get enough of the birds of prey. What exactly awaits those interested there? Didi Wechselberger: On designated days in the summer, groups of up to five people have the opportunity to experience eagles, buzzards and eagle owls up close for an entire day. We meet early in the morning at the valley station of the Ahornbahn lift in Mayrhofen and ride together to the bird station at an elevation of 2,000 metres above sea level. People are then when the animals are introduced, fed, weighed and cared for, and they become acquainted with their attributes and capabilities. Participation in the interactive demonstration is on the agenda as an absolute highlight. An eventful day draws to a close afterwards with the follow-up care of the birds, and then we ride together back down into the valley with the gondola. Höhenluft: That sounds very much like an unforgettable experience ... Didi Wechselberger: For me it is. Every day!
The falconry team Didi Wechselberger Falconer and manager of the Adlerbühne, a falconer for ten years. Hobbies: hunting, wild animal observations, birds of prey, archery, martial arts and above all the family. Roy Butterfield Falconer at the Adlerbühne; falconer aspirant since two years. Hobbies: skiing, cross-country skiing with dogs, dog-sledding, archery, photography, birds of prey, nature and hunting. Thomas Wechselberger Guest falconer at the Adlerbühne; apprentice in the electronics industry; falconer aspirant. References: Austria’s youngest Adlerträger (“Eagle Bearer”) in 2007.
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Farmer with heart and soul Even today the meadows and pasturage created in the 12th century are still the basis for the agricultural life in Brandberg. Gratzer Veitl had a足 lready known this before the technical progress.
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Gratzer Veitl is happy in his Brandberg: “If I was ever away, it was always nicest to ride up to Brandberg. Already at the Brettfall Tunnel I could hardly wait to get home.”
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he legs just don’t play along so well anymore”, says Gratzer Veitl somewhat wistfully, and he walks with the aid of his cane to the spot where he so gladly gazes into the Zillergrund – one of the four picturesque side valleys which fan-out from Mayrhofen. “If I were still light on my feet I would gladly walk over there to Häusling, from where you can get up to the Bodenalm.” The Bodenalm is an “Alm”, or alpine grazing pasture, idyllically situated at 1,671 metres above sea level, where Vitus Thanner – known under the house name “Gratzer Veitl” – spent over 50 summers with his livestock. He tended the livestock together with two other mountain farmers.
Photos: Gerhard Berger
No harmless workplace The Bodenalm is one of the few alpine grazing pastures which to this day still has not been accessed through any road – and still retains the typical and original Alm character! The way up there goes past alpine grazing huts and stables on a rustic and steep, winding trail which would be described nowadays as “adventurous”, but could only have been designated as “burdensome and dangerous” a few decades ago. “We had to go with our livestock by means of exposed stairs hewn into the rock. We forced every cow up one at a time”, says the now 84 year old man. But once you arrive on top, the plateau opens up a small paradise, a beautiful little spot which everybody in Mayrhofen rhapsodises about. Up there the cows were milked, tended and found again when they had gone astray. The stinted hay that only grows once at this altitude was harvested, and cheese was made under harsh conditions. The heavy wheels of cheese
had to be brought back down the steep trail again. The day was long – at half past 4 in the morning the three farmers started work – and the season was short. “In June we went up with the livestock, and in August it was once again time for the Almabtrieb [livestock drive]”, remembers Gratzer Veitl. “Of course, at home there was also a farm to take care of.”
Brandberg
The scythe at eye level It was 1970 as Veitl took over the parental “Gratzerhof”, a farmstead with 11 hectares of land, in Brandberg. Together with his wife and the five children it was necessary to take care of the cows, goats, sheep, chickens and pigs, to maintain the stables and fences and to till the steep fields. “We also cut the steepest meadows with a scythe, and really had it at eye level while doing so! And sometimes I had to come down from the mountain up to 35 times a day with a Krax’n [large rucksack] in order to bring the hay in. I was only able to afford the first reaper in the mid-70’s”, says Veitl knowingly, as if it were yesterday. But despite all the work Gratzer Veitl retained his sense of humour and his candour to everything. “I played the harp for a long time and gladly with the Brandberg Schuachplattler [traditional folk dance] group. But I never learned by notes. I only played by ear”, he recalls with a broad grin. And Veitl was also not averse to playing the card game “Bauernschnapsen” after church. Does he ever miss his work now that he is in his well-deserved retirement? “I always worked gladly, but after a heart attach it was not hard to stop working. After all, life is also there to be enjoyed!”
Sunny village in the Zillertal The village with only 360 inhabitants is characterised by its extreme steepness and the south-facing location in the Zillergrund. As the heart of the “Zillertal Alps High Mountain Nature Park”, this area is certainly one of the most scenically beautiful areas in the Zillertal. Today it can also still be experienced that for a long time nature was the only factor in the life of people here. The hard work of mountain farmers can be observed over and over again on one of the many hikes, for instance on a hike along the “Bergmähderweges” (“Mountain Meadows Trail”). About 85 kilometres of trails are available for hiking around Brandberg. The idyllic Bodenalm is reachable in 2 to 3 hours.
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Good hunting, Staude! Just don’t get caught — the most important rule in the life of Floitenschlagstaude, Tyrol’s most famous female poacher.
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The book about the woman: “Die Floitenschlagstaude”, Berenkamp Verlag (Publishers), (available in German).
I
t was a hard life full of privation that Elisabeth Lackner lived from 1845 to 1921. Very few people know her real name, yet the dark-haired beauty had a much catchier nickname.
Photos: Mayrhofen
Slender in stature, tough as a shrub and full of pride From the mountain village Ginzling one looks up to the Floitenschlag. In the middle of the steep terrain at 1,436 metres above sea level there once stood a cabin, the “Hoamatl” (home) of the slender, tall woman. Due to her conspicuous physique Elisabeth Lackner was popularly known as Floitenschlagstaude or “Staude” (Shrub) for short. She was a tough as well as scrawny shrub, this woman, because as arduous as the way up to her “Hoamatl” was, her life was also so arduous: three of her altogether nine children died of diphtheria, one was eaten by a piglet when it fell out of the cradle, one boy fell while brining in the hay and another succumbed to an unknown epidemic. Her much older husband also died early, whereby she was on her own with her children. Resourcefulness was called for: whoever scatters fodder on the ground around the cabin can bag chamois from the windowsill – assuming one has the appropriate marksmanship. It was good that Staude had learned the art of hunting as a little girl from her father. The youngest of eight children certainly learned many a trick in this connection, such as not getting caught while illegally hunting. “Better
than an empty stomach and hungry children”, she may have thought as she made this sacrifice. She never lost her pride.
She could not do anything else Poaching may be useful against hunger, yet it did not bring her one thing: respect. It is all too gladly forgotten that Staude did not do this for the pleasure of hunting, but primarily for plain survival. Martina Schwemberger, the director of the Mayrhofener Volksbühne folkloric theatre, wrote a play in which she presented Staude in a different light: “It was important for me to show why this woman acted in this way. Life had made her a hard woman. She could not do anything else.” The play was enacted fourteen times outdoors near the original location in the summer of 2008, and the 300 tickets were sold out every time. Martina Schwemberger played the leading role. “This was the climax of my acting career. I was able to empathise quite well with Staude”, says the Mayrhofen native. When asked what one can learn from Staude, she says: “That one does not immediately throw in the towel if everything does not go as they imagine. I admire Staude for the fact that she never gave up. She was a fighter to the core”. Staude ultimately did not win the right against a stomach disorder: she died as a lonely and impoverished woman. Incidentally, she hid her rifle so cleverly that it has never been found to this day.
In search of Floitenschlagstaude Ginzling lies at 999 metres in the far end of the Zillertal valley. It is an idyllic, placid village in which many alpine experiences get their start. Nowadays hikers, bikers, rock climbers, paragliding pilots and ski touring enthusiasts “hunt” for their pleasure all around the forests and mountainsides where Floitenschlagstaude stalked her game at that time. Ginzling is also the location of the Naturparkhaus (“Nature Park House”), where the administrations of the Nature Park, the municipality of Ginzling as well as the Alpine & Regional Library are accommodated. Yet the core of the building is the modern and familyoriented Erlebnisausstellung (“Experience Exhibition”). Oh well, have you ever heard of the “Steinbockmarsch” (Ibex March)? The proud alpine animal is not only found in the village’s coat of arms, but gives the annual Ginzling Hiking Day a melodic name. Staude would surely have gladly bagged one!
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u
l l ö r K s u k ar
M
ches up t o n r e n n u r mountain ets the l s u f o s s s l e a c e c H u s . r a st Austria’s mo d 7,000 kilometres a ye 00 an between 6,0 ÖHENLUFT “word rap”. H pace in the Nature
Mayrhofen My home and training area, where I live with my family! Life motto “Never give up!” Three years ago I ran in the Dolomite Man race with torn ligaments, which earned me the nickname “The Fighter”. Favourite place This exists in my thoughts. It is the “scene of quiet” before
push the endeavour of mountain running so that it reaches even more people, because among other things one can consciously perceive nature. And no matter where you are, you can always discover new routes. Artists who inspire me This is clearly Albin Egger-Lienz and Alfons Walde. I never tire of looking at their paintings. Stamina
my race. While doing so, I imagine that I am sitting on the
… means hard work and pain, but also considerable satis-
crest of the Grinberg and looking down into the valley. I am
faction.
very fond of going up on the Grinberg in the summer as well as winter, running or with touring skis. Mountain running
Groigg‘n This is a Zillertal speciality which you absolutely have to taste, and in addition to noodles is to be found on my menu!
Nature all around you, surmounting metres in altitude in the
Lard is cut into cubes, heated in a pan and simmered so long
shortest possible time and looking at a fantastic panorama
until the cubes become golden yellow and most of the fat has
from the mountain as a reward: incomparable!
liquefied. Onions are blended in, and this is eaten with bread
Harakiri Run This has also become somewhat my “baby”! The race was held and right from the beginning it was a sensational event. Since the Harakiri Run on Mount Penken was classified from the very beginning as an official grand prix race by the
and “Rabernes Kraut” (white turnip). In the past, I blindly thought ... ... that I can achieve everything. Today I know ...
World Mountain Running Association (WMRA), it immediately
... how difficult it actually is to really achieve everything
attracted the world elite of mountain running to Mayrhofen.
good. But I am convinced that I have achieved the maximum.
www.mayrhofen-harakiri.com Jonathan Wyatt A New Zealander architect, my best friend and at the same time my greatest rival in mountain running! Time It is my greatest luxury and at the same time it is my greatest opponent. For instance, as a painter I sometimes enjoy working for six hours at a stretch. On the other hand, I sometimes ask myself how I can accommodate everything in terms of time.
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Something most important of all! I would gladly like to further
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Photos
: Red B
ull Pho
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For years Markus Krรถll has booming been sup mountain porting th running proud th e p henomen at Mayrh on and is ofen can varying ru offer its nning an guests e d Nordic ight Walking Run & W trails wit alk Park h . He is a the full-time painter.
John Wyatt is his best friend and fiercest rival, whereas time is his greatest luxury and his mightiest opponent. He has been a world-class mountain runner for 10 years, and works as a faรงade painter, illusion painter, art restorer and gilder in Mayrhofen. Markus Krรถll in the field of contrasts: www.markus-kroell.com
A vertical wonderland The Ginzling-bred rock climber Gerhard Hörhager can easily explain why rock climbing enthusiasts in the Zillertal valley in general and around Mayrhofen in particular feel like Alice in Wonderland. Pioneers The main trailblazers of the Mayrhofen rock climbing El Dorado are: Uwe Eder, Zlu Haller, Martin Hammerer, Gerhard Hörhager, Martin Mayer, Emmi Moosbrugger, Cornelius Obleitner, Wolfgang Rottensteiner, Reini Scherer, Markus Schwaiger, Jorg Verhofen, Guido Unterwurzacher, and Georg Weber.
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T
he mountain guide, whose powerful hands indicate his passion, knows every rock niche there is to scale in the Zillertal – from boulder to multiple rope-length tour – and starts to enumerate: “At the moment there are about 30 rock-climbing walls with over 600 routes and roughly 20 bouldering areas with at least 500 boulders in the Zillertal. Alone in the proximity of the valley there are ten areas for multiple ropelength tours with around 70 routes”. Raised at the Berliner Hut high above Ginzling in a family enthusiastic about alpine sports, the passion for
rock climbing seized him at age 14. His successes have made him one of Austria’s most wellknown rock climbers and allowed him to discover the world. Although he made many first ascents and repetitions of difficult routes and bouldering in the most varying rock climbing areas in the USA, Australia and Europe, he says: “It’s most beautiful here at home! There are simply gorgeous spots, also irrespective of rock climbing. As I practise it, rock climbing is first and foremost a nature sport, and that naturally makes a difference whether one climbs around in any stone
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“You cannot force anything with the natural experience of rock climbing. You give your best and are please with what you have gained. That increases physical and emotional fitness.” – Gerhard Hörhager about his passion, rock climbing. quarry where the diggers rattle alongside or whether one stays in a natural landscape. Fortunately, the rock climbing areas in the Zillertal are for the most part located at such beautiful places. In addition to the rock potential and the rock quality, this simply makes the difference”.
Photos: Gerhard Berger (2), Mayrhofen
Deluxe rock climbing playgrounds Rock climbing visitors to the Zillertal should memorise two names: Zemmgrund and Zillergrund. In terms of rock climbing there are a vast number of varying areas – ranging from bouldering to multiple rope-length tour – for well-secured sports climbing and alpine adventure. “There is something for everybody, from the 3rd to 11th degree of difficulty. Based on the level, the Zillertal offers a great deal of variety, whether for beginner or top rock climber”, says Gerhard, who immediately adds a few tips: “The heart of the
rock climbing scene in the Zillertal is ‘The Happy Hunting Ground’ in Ginzling. This is an area where everyone will find something. Here there are up to 50 metre-high freestanding granite towers in the middle of the valley floor. This is a tremendously beautiful place that is accordingly popular. Intermediates should go to the lower summit station or to the Nasenwand directly behind the village in Ginzling. Those who really want to ‘go for gold’ can test their ability on the upper summit station in Ginzling or try the Schwarze Wand in the Zillergrund. You should definitely not miss out on bouldering in the Sundergund/Zillergrund areas.“ Wherever you want to leave behind your magnesium trails – you should absolutely climb in the Zillertal as a lover of rocky pleasure. Gerhard says: “Whoever is bored in the Zillertal cannot be helped!”
The rocky hotspots For bouldering: Sundergrund, Zillergrund, Zemmschlucht, Saustein, Ginzling Wald and Breitlahner Wald as well as the Klausen Alm in Ginzling. For rock climbing routes: “The Happy Hunting Ground” in Ginzling near the summit station, Nasenwand in Ginzling, “Schwarze Wand” at Zillergrund. Areas for multiple rope-length tours: Taufenkopf, Jägerwand and “Freie Sprünge” in Ginzling, Mühlwand at Zillergrund.
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Fiddled-up and rocked-out Although Roland Brandner cannot read any notes, he still strikes the right note – namely as a singer and guitarist in a rock band as well as with fiddle music.
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his multi-talent is only astonishing at first glance, because music lies in the blood of Zillertal natives. More than 200 musical groups are melodic proof of this. It was also the Zillertal musicians who made the Christmas carol “Silent Night, Holy Night” world-famous. Of course, this is a tribute to the Zillertal Rainer Sänger, but if there would be an award for the most versatile Zillertal musician, Roland Brandner would be one of the very best. Because whether he performs with the rocking band Ciela, which espoused the “Zillachtola Dialect Musig” (“Zillertal Dialect Music”), or whether he fiddles with the group “Schwendberger Geigenmusig” – he feels comfortable in both worlds. The variation which crops up as a result belongs to his understanding of music like the up and down of life. The contrast ensures that it remains exciting. Guitar and fiddle are the two “tone-setting” instruments in Roland’s life, whereby he starting playing the first at age 15 and the second twenty years later. Roland taught himself how to play both instruments. He
Höhenluft
Roland surfs around various guitar riffs as well as on the fiddlestick just as certainly as a profession surfer on a wave – with the difference that the Zillertal musician prefers not to make his passion a profession!
lu
n he ö H eschewed the brass-band music which his father played, yet they nevertheless shared the love for music.
Photos: Michael Rathmayr
Hoi, Ciela! The time came in 1989: five musicians from the Zillertal founded the band Ciela. Since then three albums have been released: “Hoi”, “Umbrell” and “Munter”. A fourth is currently in the works: “we’ll record ten or 14 songs”, says Roland. He and his band mates want to remain independent, therefore they forego an agency and label – and perhaps the opportunity to be able to live financially from the music. “Music should remain fun and not become a profession”, explains Roland, who earns his “daily bread” with the Zillertal Railway. But the band, which has achieved cult status in the Zillertal valley, still fills large concert venues anyway: “We do not perform every weekend in a small pub, but rather less frequently, and all the more intensive. We go the whole hog!” So it often comes about that concerts can last as long as four hours. However, this only works if the musicians also get as much energy from the audience as they need for playing. And this is exactly Roland’s goal: “If musicians and audience have the same feeling and
everybody is passionate at the same time, then if fits!” This also goes for the Geigenmusig fiddling group, which he joined via a friend. The fiddle pieces which they play so unadulterated and without amplifier with the Schwendberger Geigenmusig sound just like 100 years ago: “These songs have been passed down from generation to generation, strictly by sense of hearing. Indeed, back then there was no radio or stereo equipment, people just had to play themselves”, says Roland, who naturally fiddles in traditional Zillertal costume during the folksy performances. Fiddle music may be his way of living in solidarity with the homeland, far away from the commercial level. But sometimes it is also a welcome opportunity to switch musical tracks if something “gets too much on the nerves due to too many rehearsals”. This may not happen so often, yet the time for joint rehearsals is rather rare because of job-related reasons. After all Roland also has a family 8wife and two sons), a garden which he lovingly cultivates, and cars, which will probably soon be considers as “old-timers”. One thing is certain: as long as Roland’s fingers don’t fall off, people will still be able to experience him for a long time to come while fiddling-up and rocking-out!
This is how the Zillertal sounds The music which comes from the Zillertal has spectrums similar to the countryside: sometimes as craggy as a rock massif, sometimes as bouncy as the splattering of the river Ziller, sometimes as placid as the silence in a side valley, sometimes as lively-commercial as the hustle and bustle in a jam-packed alpine hut – the main thing is that it is the right thing for any taste! This season‘s motto of Mayr hofen/Hippach is „Music Summer 2010“. For further information on the numerous events, please visit: www.mayrhofen.at
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Mayrhofen as the centre of life An English couple tells why they prefer Mayrhofen to their home on the Isle of Man.
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Y
ou could say it was the Snaefell. With its 621 metres above sea level it is the highest point on the Isle of Man, the home of Lesley and Mike. Not the best prerequisite for learning to ski there, to say nothing of the mild winters! “We learned that Mayrhofen is quite well suited for skiing beginners and families. And since we were en route with our daughter and our grandson, the one-week ski holiday was quickly booked. That was 13 years ago.” That was a week that was to be defining for the family. The then 56 year old Mike fell in love with the winter sport on two boards. The
daughter fell in love with a Mayrhofner – and all of them were instantly delighted the land and people. “The inhabitants are so warm-hearted and courteous”, says Lesley. And Mike adds: “Here everything is so clean, orderly and safe – and the countryside incomparable!” Other stays followed, mainly to regularly visit their daughter, who had meanwhile married and moved to Mayrhofen with her son. Then five years ago Lesley and Mike decided to spend nine months a year permanently in Mayrhofen. “We live from July to September and from November to April in the Zillertal and enjoy every single day. Incidentally, our daughter along with family moved
Höhenluft Two Englishmen in Mayrhofen: Lesley and Mike can frequently be found at Konditorei Kröll (left side) and at “Sieghard” (above left).
Mike’s opinion is asked for during Lesley’s shopping tours on the Mayrhofner Hauptstraße. In the downtown area (above right) there is something fashionable for Lesley, while mountain boots in the Salewa store (below right) wait on the first hike with Mike. News from home is also available in Mayrhofen!
to Spain two years ago”, smirks Mike about this situation.
Photos: Gerhard Berger
Lesley und Mike’s Mayrhofen “In the time in which we are here, I am on the mountain every morning”, says mountain enthusiast Mike, adding “in the summer with a rucksack, in the winter with skis”. If Lesley does not accompany him, she fosters her friendships in the meantime: “There are many pretty cafes and restaurants in Mayrhofen and Hippach; I gladly meet with my girlfriends there. I especially enjoy the pastries and cakes. The self-made chocolates and pralines in the pastry shops – of which there are
many here – also attract me.” “We always have dear friends from England visit us in Mayrhofen”, says Mike. “Every time we discover new culinary specialities with them: from Zillertal delicacies to gourmet menu!” Then the rest of the afternoon can easily be spent strolling around Hauptstraße in Mayrhofen. “I put two handbags on the side in a fashion shop, and you have to decide with me which one suits me better”, says Lesley in a challenge to Mike, who throws up his hands with a laugh. “Lesley always finds something to buy.” Something in his smile reveals that he will also not come away empty-handed …
Hauptstraße It doesn’t matter whether the belly growls on Mayrhofen’s promenade, the dry through seeks refreshment, a tour shall be booked or the wardrobe needs fresh wind – here you will strike a bonanza. An encounter with a (Hollywood) star is not ruled out, and an encounter with goodhumoured people is guaranteed!
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Imprint:
Winter through the photographer’s eye
Publisher:
N
Preview
Ferienregion Mayrhofen/Hippach,
ature photography of the wintry mountains of the Zillertal valley means no longer being able to change the lens with numb fingers, having to call off the photo shooting due to batteries that emptied prematurely in the cold, not being able to utilise the tripod because it flounders for stability in the deep snow, waiting for hours on end in the cold until the longed-for light arrives, which perhaps does not come along at all…”, says photographer Paul Sürth knowingly while relating about his passion. In the next winter edition of HÖHENLUFT, you will also learn what photography means to him, what his favourite motif in the Zillertal is, and how it feels to be searching for a motif with Paul Sürth in the wintry mountains. Available from September 2010!
A-6290 Mayrhofen, www.mayrhofen.at Distributor: target group publishing gmbh – Zielgruppen Verlag, A-6020 Innsbruck Editorial: pro.media kommunikation, A-6020 Innsbruck, Tel. 0043 (0)512/214004, E-Mail: promedia.innsbruck@ pressezone.at, www.pressezone.at Editorial staff: Andreas Lackner, Mag. Doris Dengg (TVB Mayrhofen/ Hippach), Mag. (FH) Sarah Krösbacher, Hannes Fritzer (Mayrhofner Bergbahnen), Mag.
d e l a e c n o c s i Who in this photo?
(FH) Katharina Glatz, Mag. Tanja Lauton (pro.media kommunikation) Translations: Übersetzungsbüro Babel, A-6020 Innsbruck Design & Image-Processing: Markus Anderwald Pictures: Gerhard Berger, Michael Rathmayr Print: Niederösterreichisches Pressehaus
“Small Zillertal dictionary for guests and locals“, Wolfgang Ingenhaeff, Berenkamp
Win with the Höhenluft picture puzzle. Which world-class Mayrhofen athlete is pictured here? If you leaf through HÖHENLUFT one more time it may not be difficult for you to recognise who is concealed in this image detail. The answer is worth one of three books about Floitenschlagstaude! Please send the answer by 31 August 2010 per e-mail to: gewinnspiel@mayrhofen.at. The winner will be determined and notified in writing. All decisions are final.
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Photos: Paul Sürth, Red Bull Photofiles, Archiv
Verlag, 144 pages.
Zillachtolerish – Deutsch Here are a few terms to help you understand the dialect on holiday and even to allow you to converse a little too. schiàn gièn – go on holiday kraggsln – climb hådèrdaggsl – lizard dúcht – thirst gwàff – cutlery
Tourismusverband Mayrhofen/Hippach Dursterstr. 225, A-6290 Mayrhofen www.mayrhofen.at
Mayrhofner Bergbahnen AG Hauptstr. 472, A-6290 Mayrhofen www.mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com
Tel.: 0043 (0) 5285/67 60-0 Fax: 0043 (0) 5285/67 60-33
Tel.: 0043 (0) 5285/62 277 Fax: 0043 (0) 5285/62 277-161
info@mayrhofen.at
info@mayrhofner-bergbahnen.com