2015 July Mazama Bulletin by Mazamas

JULY 2015

VOL. 97

NO. 7

The Education Issue

Accidental Mountaineers 100 Years of the Mazama Library Gorge Rescue Climbing Beyond the Sound Barrier

FEATURES

Are You Ready to Take Your Climbing to the Next Level, p. 6 Accidental Mountaineers, p. 8 Are You Experienced?, p. 13 100 Years of the Mazama Library, p. 14 Gorge Rescue, p. 16 No Picnic on Mt. Hood, p. 18 Agua Sin Gas, p. 20 Leadership Cohort, p. 25 Inaugural Families Mountaineering 101 Graduates, p. 26 Climbing Beyond the Sound Barrier, p. 29 Obituary: Rick Posekany, p. 37

MONTHLY COLUMNS

Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Membership Report, p. 7 Successful Climbers, p. 23 20s & 30s, p. 24 Classics, p. 28 Outings, p. 32 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 33 Trail Trips Info, p. 34 Executive Council Minutes, p. 38

Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager kati@mazamas.org Rick Craycraft • MMC Facility Manager rick@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

Cover: Camille Peterson scrambles up steep talus on the way to Unicorn Peak. Photo: Steve Heikkila. This page: (top) Ania Wiktorowicz leads her team to the summit of Middle Sister. (bottom) Jon Skeen on the Hogback on Mt. Baker. Photo: Jason Lee.

Publications Committee

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Open daily

publications@mazamas.org

Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, Committee Members: Bob Breivogel, Catherine Diaz, Ken Dubois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Pam Monheimer, Lacy Turner

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT

Preparing for Adventure Mountaineering is an adventure sport. A sport that always involves risk and one where the outcome of any trip is unknown when we leave the trailhead. People come to the Mazamas to go on a hike, a climb, or to take a class because they’re excited to explore the mountains and because they want to challenge themselves. It is our duty to teach people how to prepare themselves for these experiences and to make sure they are walking into the mountains with their eyes wide open. Our primary mission at the Mazamas is to promote mountaineering through our programs. We offer many different types of programs at the Mazamas, and our education programs are by far our most important and effective means of promoting mountaineering. Our Education Committee organizes classes in basic, intermediate, and advanced climbing, ski mountaineering, Nordic skiing, wilderness first aid, navigation, avalanche awareness, expedition climbing, and more. One of the main aims of our education programs is to create responsible mountaineers. People who, through skills training, managed field experiences, and physical and mental fitness are not only aware of the unpredictability of the mountain environment, but are prepared to face it. Tom Price, who authored the Outward Bound Instructor Manual once said “Anyone can make adventure training safe by taking all of the adventure out of it.” In our programs and activities it is not our goal to remove all risk from mountaineering, both because ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 21 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 24 Centered in Motion, p. 28 Classifieds, p. 37 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 37 Embark Adventures, p. 12 Green Trails, p. 12

that would be unrealistic and because much of what we’re trying to do is prepare people to deal with adventurous situations when they appear. Our climbing, skiing, avalanche awareness, and first aid classes all have a risk management element as well. We teach students to be constantly aware of what could go wrong, and to be smart enough to know when it’s time to turn around. We do this by providing classes and experiences that progressively give more responsibility to our students. In the beginning, our students are taught only “one” way to do things (like belaying, or building anchors, or route finding,) and by the end our advanced programs, graduates are able to improvise solutions and solve problems in difficult situations and with limited resources. In addition to technical skills, risk management, and decision-making training, our classes provide a forum for our students to connect with like-minded individuals, people with similar goals, and shared values. We teach our students how to organize a group, to set attainable goals, to plan and train to meet those goals, and to recognize the value of their teammates. Providing this opportunity to build and maintain personal relationships while learning how to think and act responsibly in the mountains is core to all of our classes. Without competent partners, alpine recreation is a lonely and extremely dangerous exercise. If you climb enough, finding adventure in the mountains is unavoidable. Climber

Risk is at the heart of all education. –Willi Unsoeld

Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising Montbell, p. 31 Mountain Shop, p. 36 Next Adventure, p. 27 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 5 Robert Joy Insurance Agency, p. 14 SMC Gear, p. 22 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 37

and fitness guru Mark Twight once said, “I don’t actually care what I climb, only how it affects me. Which means the summit doesn’t matter as much as the emotional process.” When people are prepared to manage risk and find adventure in the mountains, it transforms them. We firmly believe that these transformational experiences build lasting bonds with the people and places with whom you share the experience. Mazamas educational programs prepare people for adventure and personal transformation. They also build a strong community of responsible mountaineers, climbers, hikers and skiers who care deeply for the mountains and for each other.

Lee Davis Executive Director

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

JULY 2015

Mazamas: We Believe in Higher Education by Andrew Bodien, Education Committee Chair Welcome to the Mazamas Education Programs. Education is one of the core tenets of the Mazamas. Let me quote our values: “As Mazamas, we believe training, experience, and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment, and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking, and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.” Whether your interest is mountaineering, ice climbing, rock climbing, ski mountaineering, nordic skiing, first aid, or expedition climbing, we have classes to help you learn the skills to be safe and have fun in the mountains. The Education Committee oversees all Mazama Education Programs. The committee is made up of a core committee and representatives from each of the subcommittees that operate the Mazama classes. There is a subcommittee for each education program, including the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), Advanced Rock (AR), Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI), the Nordic Ski School, Ski Mountaineering, First Aid, and the Expedition Course. The members of the core committee have an interest or background in adult education, form development, adult learning, curriculum development, and class development. The members of the individual subcommittees have knowledge of the class subject area and an interest in sharing that knowledge with others. The Education Committee and its subcommittees are responsible for all Mazama classes. We focus on curriculum development, new class development, training programs for instructors and assistants, the design and collection of feedback on all classes and scheduling of all Mazama classes to minimize conflicts. The Education Committee and school subcommittees are always looking for new members for core committee and the individual subcommittees. Contact education@mazamas.org if you are interested in getting involved.

VIDEO OF THE MONTH Tom Bennett led a Mazama Outing to the Alaska Range again this year. Assistant Leader Mickey O'Brien made this video showing dramatic close-up aerial views of the Ruth Amphitheater. Watch it here: mazamas.blogspot.com/2015/06/video-of-month-june-2015.html

MAZAMAS

STAY CONNECTED ▶▶ Share your photos on Instagram! Follow mazamaspdx. Hashtags: #mazamas, #mazamalodge, #weclimbhigh ▶▶ Stay connected on Facebook: facebook.com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Enjoy the Mazama Bulletin in full color at issuu.com/ mazamas. It is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ Download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ Advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl.com/MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Keep up with us on the Mazama blog. Mazamas. blogspot.com

KHUMBU, NEPAL SERVICE TREK Oct. 14–Nov. 11, 2015

28-day trip: Fly to Kathmandu and stay in Thamel, an historic district near world heritage sites. A short domestic flight along the Himalayas lands in Lukla and there the trek begins. We trek along the Duh Kosi River on the Mt. Everest Base Camp Trail on the way to the center of the Khumbu: Namche Bazar. Our destination is Phortse where we will spend 13 days working to complete the shell of the Khumbu Climbing Center (an Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation project) and help with reconstruction of homes in the village. This is a wonderful opportunity to work with the Sherpa villagers of Phortse to rebuild their lives after the recent devastating earthquake and avalanches, and support Nepali expedition workers by working on the KCC. Seeking people in great condition who possess a sense of adventure and good construction skills. For more information contact Mike Pajunas, 503-260-2693, mikepajunas@gmail. com. Cost: $4,000 (including airfare)

Conservation Committee

Third Wednesday of the Month

The Conservation Committee seeks members to support our efforts to protect the alpine environments where we climb. We invite you to attend our next committee meeting on Wednesday, July 15 at 7 p.m. at the MMC, to learn more about how you can get involved in activities such as:

▶▶ Selecting grant recipients and overseeing grants to local community partner organizations ▶▶ Planning and running more hands-on conservation projects such as tree planting, invasive species monitoring projects, trail restoration, etc. ▶▶ Enhancing the education and outreach programming of the committee by teaching classes in wilderness ethics

▶▶ Writing articles for the Mazama Bulletin and blog about the Conservation Committee Policy Agenda ▶▶ Organizing talks and programs with organizational partners to host discussions with conservation leaders, scholars, and public officials on key issues Contact Ally Imbody, Conservation Committee co-Chair, aimbody@gmail.com.

Youth Climb Camp

Tuesday/Thursday, July 28–Aug. 6, 6:30–8:30 p.m.

Teach kids how to belay! This 5-session course will teach kids (ages 9–17) how to tie in, belay and use proper safety commands. This will be a two week evening class consisting of four two-hour sessions at the MMC, followed by a Saturday

Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES at the Source Rock Gym in Vancouver. Contact Kati, kati@ mazamas.org, if you would like to be involved.

Annual Mazama Trail Work Party July 23–25

Located on the NW side of Mt. Hood, the Mazama Trail extends 3.7 miles from its beginning to a junction with the Timberline Trail near McNeil Point Shelter. The trail was dedicated to the Mazamas in 1994 to commemorate the restoration we did after a severe tree blowdown. Come for one day, or for all three. No experience necessary, tools will be provided. For more information contact Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org, or call the office, 503-227-2345. And please let us know if you’d be willing to meet participants at the MMC on Friday afternoon to organize carpooling.

MMC Lawnmowing Volunteers needed

Evaluation Volunteers Ongoing

2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038

2016 RTM Coordinators Ongoing

After two years of masterfully running the annual Round the Mountain program, our current coordinators will be retiring from the event next year and are looking to hand the program off to a pair (or trio) of enthusiastic volunteers. This project requires planning through the fall, winter and spring, and then concentrated time during the summer to ramp up for the event over Labor Day weekend. Coordinators have the support of past program chairs and of the Mazama office. Contact rtm@ mazamas.org to learn more and ask questions.

Ongoing

The Mazamas needs volunteers to help maintain our side lawn. The south lawn requires a bit more attention (mowing) in the summer. If you live nearby and/or have the equipment, please consider helping us on a weekly, or every-other week basis; or even just being on call. Please contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com, if you are willing and able to help out.

Oregon Mountain Community

program surveys. If you have experience with program and data evaluation, consider helping out. This project can be done remotely and on your own schedule. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org if you would like to help.

The Mazamas is working to measure the impact and outcomes of our new youth outreach programs, and needs help compiling and analyzing the information we collect on our pre-and-post

KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways.

JULY 2015

ICS STUDENT INTERVIEWS Cyndy Rutto WHAT MADE YOU SIGN UP FOR ICS? I am a Nurse Practitioner, mother of three, and grandmother who came to climbing late in life. In 2013, I took BCEP with much excitement and some trepidation. Little did I realize BCEP was merely my starting point. Afraid of heights and not sure about my abilities, ICS had not entered my mind. What a crazy trip it’s been! After a summer of climbing, it occurred to me that climbing at a higher level was within my capability. All I needed was practical education. Having watched my friends who took ICS the year prior, I knew that this course could help me achieve my goals.

Photo: Hannah Seebach

Are You Ready to take your alpine climbing to the next level? Apply to Intermediate Climbing School (ICS)!

The last several years have seen steady improvement in the quality of the Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) program. Built up by the skills and drive of dedicated ICS coordinators and instructors, this year will not disappoint. The ICS program is being managed and taught by an experienced team of volunteers, including the last four former coordinators and some very skilled, thoughtful, and fun instructors. There is still time to apply to ICS. I encourage you to get out there for those last snow or rock climbs, and get them on your resume. ICS is an intense and comprehensive intermediate course with a fast learning tempo, so be prepared with your basic skills locked in. Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is a great introduction to the skills needed to apply to ICS, but it is back country experience that really solidifies them. ▶▶ Application Deadline: Aug. 3 ▶▶ Skill Test Options: Aug. 5, 10, and 13 ▶▶ Course begins: Aug. 24 ▶▶ For additional information look at the Intermediate Climbing School class webpage found at mazamas.org or contact mazamas.ics@gmail.com.

MAZAMAS

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF ICS? ICS was an extraordinary experience, thus picking one favorite is nearly impossible. From classmates to instructors … we came together as a group to learn from and support one another. The multi-modal method of instruction was indispensable. In terms of experiential aspects, rock climbing and anchor building were my favorite. DID YOU DO ANYTHING IN ICS THAT YOU NEVER THOUGHT THAT YOU WOULD DO? There are so many experiences that I never entertained before the course. From learning how to read the environments in which I am climbing, to building anchors and navigating, ICS has given me the skills and confidence to push my self-imposed limits. The increasing skill sets have allowed me to explore the outdoors in ways I never considered possible. WHAT WAS A CHALLENGE OF ICS THAT YOU DID NOT ANTICIPATE? While I was aware of the time commitment from the beginning, the abstract differed from reality. The course had a significant impact on the amount of time I was able to spend with friends and family. However, there is much to learn and the time required by the class is reasonable in order to learn the plethora of information. DO YOU HAVE ANY BIG CLIMBING GOAL(S) NOW THAT YOU HAVE GRADUATED? I would like to do more technical climbs, work on getting my skills to take sport lead, teach, and start ticking off those 16 peaks. This summer I will be climbing Mt. Baker and Mts. Lefroy and Victoria in the Canadian Rockies. I would like to spend more time on rock learning to climb more challenging routes. Next year I hope to spend more time in the North Cascades. One of my future goals is to climb in South America, but for now, I want to get to know the Pacific Northwest in a more intimate way through climbing. ANY WORDS OF WISDOM FOR SOMEONE CONSIDERING ICS FOR 2015-16? Make the most of your time in ICS. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes or ask questions. Practice. Talk to people about how they approach different skills sets. There are rules that can be approached in a multitude of ways so be open to differing ideas and maintain a curious mind. Challenge yourself. This is a safe place to think outside the box and learn from very knowledgeable people.

We had a chance to interview a couple of recent ICS graduates to learn about their experiences while taking ICS. Hearing from recent graduates will likely be the best way to find out if ICS is for you!

WHAT WAS A CHALLENGE OF ICS THAT YOU DID NOT ANTICIPATE? The reality of the time commitment was the major challenge of ICS. Fortunately I was at a place in my personal and professional life that accommodated the commitment. It’s something to consider before enrolling—you will probably see friends less often. You will take fewer personal trips. You might be fatigued at work on Monday morning. But you have to weigh that against the value of the education. For me, it was well worth it.

ANY WORDS OF WISDOM FOR SOMEONE CONSIDERING ICS FOR 2015-16? Apply critical thinking. Ask a lot of questions. Your instructors have years of experience in the field. Ask them why they choose certain gear placements over others. Ask them how they rack their gear. Ask them the pros and cons of pre-tying a cordelette. There is no prescriptive path to becoming a mountaineer, nor is there a single approach to achieving your climbing objectives. Be an agent in your education, and it will have so much more value.

Reinstated Kari Friedewald, Miguel Hernandez, Michael Leone, Barbara Schulz, William Wigmore Deceased (year joined) Priscilla Haugen (1949), Jim Lindemann (1976)

TATED NS

ASED CE

20 31, 14

3,301

REI

DID YOU DO ANYTHING IN ICS THAT YOU NEVER THOUGHT THAT YOU WOULD DO? Honestly, no. Given my trajectory going in to ICS, the curriculum was a natural progression, not a quantum leap.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST MEMORABLE CLIMBING EXPERIENCE? I’ve been fortunate to have many fun climbing experiences, but the most memorable was probably the least fun, but most educational. On my first winter climb of Mt. St. Helens, I did a poor job paying attention to the route going up, and ended up descending the wrong ridge. When I realized my error, I had to traverse a pretty steep gully that was getting quite soft in the morning sun. To top it off, it was my first time using crampons, and I had improperly fit them to my boots. Consequently, a crampon came off at a critical moment. I lost my footing and slid several body lengths before I was able to arrest. The lessons were panoply: route finding, especially staying aware of the path of descent, is a critical component of competent mountaineering. Always check your gear and know how to use it before you get in a situation where you are really depending on it.

W James Anderson— Mt. St. Helens Kimberly Anderson— Mt. St. Helens Rebecka Chall—Mt. St. Helens Eric Chapman—Mt. St. Helens Reena Clements—Mt. St. Helens Sean Connell—Mt. St. Helens Timothy Dickerson—South Sister Amy Dobesh—Mt. St. Helens Kevin Dugan—Mt. Rainier Brandon Farley—Mt. Hood Eddie Ferrer—Mt. Hood Rebecca Guiao—Mt. Adams Marci Haddad—Mt. St. Helens Michael Kacmar—Mt. St. Helens Craig Karls—Mt. St. Helens Akram Khan—Mt. Hood Stuart Koster—Mt. St. Helens Jaime Kulble—Mt. St. Helens Jim Kutz—Mt. Hood Kara Lefebvre—Mt. St. Helens David Lumsden—Mt. St. Helens Miranda Marlow—Mt. St. Helens Eric Miller—Mt. Hood Christina Moffitt—South Sister Joseph Morse—Mt. Rainier Rob Olsztyn—Mt. Hood Trey Schutrumpf—Mt. St. Helens Jeffrey Shuman—Mt. Hood Lisa Sprague—Mt. St. Helens Dave Stecher—Mt. Adams Tracie Weitzman—Mt. St. Helens

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF ICS? My favorite part of ICS, beyond the acquisition of skills, was the camaraderie. There was a real sense that we were in it together, and I formed strong friendships that will endure beyond the class term. It’s reassuring to know that my climbing partners have the same fundamental skill set that I now possess, and that we can tackle any objective we set ourselves to.

DO YOU HAVE ANY BIG CLIMBING GOAL(S) NOW THAT YOU HAVE GRADUATED? I’m starting with the Cascades. I’ll be busy in our backyard for the next couple years, most likely. I have solid plans for more Mt. Hood climbs, Mt. Baker, Mt. Rainier, and alternative routes on Mt. Adams. I also have irons in the fire for Stuart Range, Mt. Shuksan, and Sahale Mountain. I hope to climb in Oregon, as I’ve only climbed Mt. Hood so far. In the next couple of years I’ll probably make it to the Winds and Tetons (good excuse to visit relatives in Wyoming), climb some 14ers in California, and climb in the Pickets and Bugaboos. Someday I’d like to go back to Alaska and also check out South America. But for now, I want to continue to hone my skills closer to home.

May

WHAT MADE YOU SIGN UP FOR ICS? I have been adventuring in the Pacific Northwest since childhood, a six-year stint on the East Coast notwithstanding. Within the last four years or so my travels started taking me into progressively challenging terrain. Big Gorge hikes gave way to Mount St. Helens climbs. This paved the way for tackling Mt. Adams and a winter climb of Mt. Hood in late 2013. My physical condition and climbing aspirations outpaced my technical know-how. I decided to get formal training before getting myself into a predicament. Having no prior experience with Mazamas, but being aware of the organization as a Portland-area native, I perused the curricula on the website. ICS seemed like the right fit based on my level of experience.

Welcome New Mazamas!

May

Brian Thackeray

, 2015 31

3,397

JULY 2015

Accidental Mountaineers: Our Family’s Journey Learning the Ropes by Michele Blackwell Our family moved to Portland a little over four years ago. We decided to make the move because of the opportunity to live a slower-paced lifestyle, one that would allow us better work-life balance. With the move we vowed to take advantage of that work-life balance by seeing every last bit of Oregon. We would take twice-monthly road trips and camping adventures as often as possible. We had grand plans! Unfortunately, almost as soon as we settled in to our new lives, my husband Jason’s mother was diagnosed with early onset Alzheimer’s disease. So, for the first few years that we lived in Portland, we juggled full-time jobs, parenting a very active grade-schooler, and being primary caregivers to Grandma—all of which made it nearly impossible for us to develop friendships and do the outdoorsy things we had envisioned we would do here. About a year ago, our family began to emerge from the transition of relocating and intensity of caregiving and used our free time to further develop some friendships with parents we met through our son Miles’s school. We had Andrea McKee and Bob Murphy’s family over for dinner one Sunday evening. While Miles played with Andrea and Bob’s kids, Sam and Davey, we chatted about the usual stuff: kids, school, work, and what we did for fun that weekend. My husband Jason, Miles, and I had spent the weekend doing homework, balancing the checkbook, cooking, cleaning, and doing

laundry in preparation for the coming week. Andrea, Bob, and their kids had just spent the weekend camping at Mt. Hood. Jason and I were silently envious. We told Andrea and Bob how we hadn’t exercised our camping muscles in a long time. In fact, Jason had said just last week: “We should be camping more often. At least once a month!” Then Bob talked about his involvement with Mazamas and how excited he was that a Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101) class would be starting soon. He explained that the class was the first of its kind designed specifically for families interested in things like camping, hiking, and backpacking. They would get classroom training and field practice in a supportive group environment. Jason and I decided right then and there, without so much as a glance toward one another, that our family was going to participate. We could not pass up the opportunity to explore all that the Pacific Northwest has to offer. I’m pretty sure that Jason, having been a stagehand with rigging experience, was the only person in our family who had some sense of what we had signed up to do. Sure, we had read the class prospectus and gear

Michele Blackwell mid-climb. Photo: Chris Fowler

MAZAMAS

list but it was a foreign language to me. As we selected harnesses, carabiners, prusiks, and personal protection, I had no real idea of what I would be doing with those things and during most of the class sessions I was completely lost. Is there a word to describe someone who has less experience than novice? Our first field practice session was a weekend at Horsethief Butte. The plan for the first day was to practice the skills we had learned in class the week before belay techniques and climber commands. At first, I felt like I had no clue what I was supposed to be doing. Jason was overwhelmed, and Miles refused to try to climb because he’s afraid of heights and wasn’t interested in practicing the skills we had learned in class. We all needed to go slow, hang back, and watch for a while. So that’s what we did. Jason and I worked on getting proficient in tying knots, and tried fixed line travel at the practice stations that were set up. Miles walked around and watched other families practicing their skills. The great thing about taking a class with other families is that everyone understands kids and parenting, and people aren’t

FAMILIES MOUNTAINEERING 101 Interested in connecting with other parents who climb? Want your kids to learn safe climbing skills? Get your kids and yourself into the mountains, grow the club’s family community and of course, learn to climb high in Families Mountaineering 101 (FM101). This class is designed to train adult and youth climbers in entry level rock and snow climbing, FM101 is also an incredible opportunity to get your entire family involved with alpine activities and Mazamas. Join us in the second annual class starting August 2015 through May 2016. Please visit FM101.org for more information. Apply now through the end of July. FM101 2015 group. Photo: Mari Chris Folwer

too bothered when things go awry. They know that, particularly with kids, things can always go awry. Eventually Miles saw Sam climb and his competitive nature was stoked, so he decided that he could do it too. And he did! At the end of Day 1 at Horsethief Butte we set camp, chatted with the other parents of the group and prepared dinner. The kids ran around playing tag, screaming with delight and generally getting to know each other. It was a great day. We spent Day 2 at Horsethief doing much of the same as Day 1. Jason and I spent most of our time on the ground tying in to our harness, practicing belay skills, remembering climber commands, and watching people, including Miles and the other kids, climb, climb, climb! Toward the end of the day, Jason and I felt a little bit of confidence so we decided to practice fixed line travel along the line that ran atop the ridge of rocks where the day’s climbing routes were set. I followed behind a kid and Jason followed me. I hadn’t moved up the route too far when I noticed that the kid in front of me was long gone. At about the same time, I noticed that my hiking boots kept slipping off of the rock I was trying to climb. It was tough to get solid footing which made me nervous and I suddenly felt like I wasn’t strong enough—either to push or pull myself up the rock. In an effort to figure out what my plan of attack would be, I looked around, up and down. Oops. I looked DOWN and panicked. At that moment, I lost every bit of composure that ever was inside of me. Jason could see it so he tried, ever so valiantly, to encourage me and give me pointers as to how I could get up to the next step on the

rock. But by that point I was crying and nearly hyperventilating so I told him (he’s a novice too, after all) that he was not allowed to talk to me. He obliged. But he did make sure to get some help for me. Craig Martin (Co-leader for FM101 2016) and Katie Norton (one of the many volunteers for FM101 2015) helped me that day. Craig asked how I was. I really was okay. Just a little overwhelmed and maybe a little scared since I have a healthy fear of heights. He asked if I wanted help to get down. I said “NO! I AM GOING TO FINISH!” He smiled and said: “Okay! Remember this; it doesn’t have to be fun to be fun!” which made me laugh. So, I was simultaneously crying, nearly hyperventilating, possibly swearing, and laughing; frozen in one spot. At this point, Katie took over and very patiently coached me up the rocks. She talked me through moving my prusik and clip through the line, and calling out to the climber below. I couldn’t have finished the climb that day and may not have done another without the support of experienced climbers Craig and Katie (not to mention my wonderful husband Jason). I may have already known it in my bones, but the weekend at Horsethief Butte made it very clear in my mind that we had signed up for FM101 not just get out to do more camping, but also to be introduced to activities that we had never even considered exploring, in a safe, supportive environment. We were introduced to and experienced rock climbing, rappelling, navigation, first aid, gear selection, backpacking, snow camping, crampons, and glissading. Huh? The FM101 class culminated in a weekend climbing trip to Smith Rock

a couple of weeks ago. It was the first time that leaving for a weekend trip was relatively easy for our family. Miles hiked to and from the Student Wall like a champ. He could hardly wait to climb and asked me to belay him. “I really trust you to keep me safe when I’m climbing, Mom.” He and Jason cheered me on when I climbed. And when I looked down from the rock I was on, my fear was assuaged when I remembered all of the safety checks we had done. I reminded myself to trust my gear and the person belaying me. No crying. No hyperventilating. No swearing. Lots of laughing when I touched the anchor at the top of my climbs that day. Yes, plural. Three climbs! Who knew rock climbing was so much fun? Me. My husband, my kid, and a bunch of other families. As we walked out of Smith Rock Sunday afternoon, I reflected on the fact that almost a year has passed since we began this adventure. I thought about our first day at Horsethief Butte and what a different experience it was from this weekend. I considered all that we had learned, how our family had bonded, the friends we made along the way, and the plans we have made to be outdoors. We will climb Rooster Rock and Old Snowy as a family this summer. Next year, as a Mother’s Day gift to myself I will climb Mount St. Helens with a group of FM101 moms. Most importantly, I realized that for my family, rock climbing is a lot like life— sometimes frightening and really hard. But when you surround yourself with the right people, have the right gear, and understand how to keep yourself safe, anything is possible. Climb on!

JULY 2015

volcanoes. Later in my youth, I attended college at Eastern Oregon State in La Grande and would have the privilege of exploring the The author on the summit backcountry of Mount St. Helens for Mother’s Day. Photo: Unknown. of the Blue and Wallowa Mountains by Craig Karls during archaeological surveys, geological field trips, ver since I can remember, the as well as on my own. outdoors has been my friend. Last summer I was hiking McNeil Growing up in the St. Johns Point on Mt. Hood with some friends. We continued our hike on the path that runs neighborhood of North Portland up the ridgeline above the shelter. It was a in the 70s and 80s, I would spend much of my time roaming the woods lovely clear day, we were at about 7,100 feet looking at the top of Mt. Hood and I turned and meadows of Smith and Bybee to my friend, Eric Crowley and said, “You Lakes, Hayden Island, and Forest know, I would love to climb to the top of Park—collecting plant specimens that someday.” He smiled slyly and replied, “I have.” He then told me of some other climbs and immersing myself in nature. he had been on, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. The outdoors provided a welcome I listened, mesmerized by his stories. respite and temporary sanctuary He remembered our conversation from from a home life that was quite that summer hike, because I received a dysfunctional and sometimes violent. text message from him the following New Year’s Eve that read, “Howdy—wanted to One of the most memorable events in my see if you are at all interested in taking a youth occurred on a Sunday morning, May basic mountaineering course. I am going 18th, 1980. From my front yard, I saw Mount to sign up for the Mazama basic course.” I St. Helens erupt in all its glory, burning an began to barrage him with questions and indelible mark on my soul of the power, he gave me the link to the Mazama Basic awe, and beauty of mountains—especially Climbing Education Program (BCEP). I read

MAZAMAS

everything on that link and began exploring everything else on the Mazamas website. Saying that I was interested would be an understatement. He advised me to go to the BCEP Information Night and sign-up that night because the spots fill up quickly. I went to the BCEP information night that January and was entranced with the people who were climbing the rock walls in the auditorium. I have never been rock climbing, never been in a harness, and knew next to nothing about the sport. Yet, there was something about watching the spectacle that was calling me—that quiet voice inside me was telling me to do this, that now was the time and I would grow and discover things about myself that hitherto were unknown. I listened to the presentation and watched the slides, becoming more certain that BCEP was the right choice for me. The password was given out at the end of the presentation and I went straight home and signed up online. I knew that there was no guarantee of being admitted into the program. I was told that demand for BCEP often exceeds the spots available. Indeed that was demonstrated by the overflow, standing-room only crowd at information night. An email arrived in my inbox early February informing me I was accepted. I was delighted, but also a little apprehensive. After all, other than hiking, I’d never done any “mountaineering” sports. Also, I tend to have a lot of social anxiety and awkwardness when meeting people for the first time, especially large groups of people. At least my friend Eric was also accepted and we were on the same BCEP team, Team 21, whose leaders were Amy Graham and Patrice Cook. There was continued on page 12

to be an introductory potluck at Patrice’s house before the first class, allowing us to get to know one another. At the potluck, we were each given about six feet of climbing rope in order to begin to learn our knots. Some of the knots were rather easy to learn and others not so much. We were being “shown the ropes,” so to speak. It was both gratifying and humbling learning something new about which I knew next to nothing. Gratifying in not only learning the skill, but also in beholding the beauty and pattern of a properly tied and dressed knot. Humbling because it seems easier than it really is. When I went home that evening to practice the different knots, it seemed there was a meditative quality in learning this new skill—Zen and The Art of Knot Tying, if you will. At the first BCEP class, I learned that I was going to be rock climbing at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) that very weekend. I was excited like someone starting their first day of high school. I had never rock climbed, even in a gym, never been in a harness, knew nothing about the equipment, and only learned about some of the knots a week before. I went to the Mountain Shop in Southeast Portland later that week to buy all the gear I needed in order to climb on Sunday. Fortunately, there were some BCEP assistants there to help me get what I needed and ease me into the world of rock climbing. When our MMC rock session came, I had a beast of a time getting my two prusik slings the correct lengths. Patience and determination came through though. When it was my turn to climb the wall, I felt exhilaration like none other. Getting to the top of the wall, I thought to myself, “Hmm, I think I may have found my sport.” Strangely, I didn’t have much fear of falling. Also, I discovered climbing to have a meditative quality to it. My chattering mind became silent and focused on the task at hand. There was something paradoxically relaxing about it. The biggest fear I had that day was in belaying my classmates. I wanted to make certain I was doing everything correct, lest they fall. Our class had a signup spreadsheet on Google and I signed up for every activity offered, throwing myself into BCEP. I had been bitten by the bug and overflowing with enthusiasm for this sport. With anything in life, you get back what you put into it, so find something which fills you with enthusiasm and joy and go chase it! Our camping and outdoor rock session weekend at Horsethief Butte was the last weekend of March. The weather was excellent and the experience magical, confirming that

I had indeed found my sport after 45 years on this beautiful planet. I eagerly went from station to station, climbing again and again. I also discovered another activity I adore—rappelling! I discovered that indoor rock climbing is fun, but outdoor rock climbing is a blast. We had our snow weekend on April 18–19, learning about avalanches, self-arrest, crampon use, roped teams, and pickets. Mountaineering is the perfect team sport, because the only one you are competing against is yourself and the climb team is only as strong as its weakest member. Thus it behooves you to assist your teammates in any way possible to help them succeed. When the final came, I was amazed how much knowledge and activity was packed in such a short amount of time. I am now comfortable with the skills that were taught and it has ignited a passion in me to learn as much as I can about mountaineering. I have already taken the Crevasse Rescue Skill-builder and intend to take additional skill-builder classes. I see Intermediate Climbing School in my future as well. There was a whole lot more I learned from BCEP than just mountaineering skills. I learned more about who I am. I’ve learned to trust others more—life is one big climb and everyone you meet is belaying you in some way. I’ve learned the wisdom of the fool—that is, having a beginner’s mind in learning a new skill can bring so much wonder and joy into my life. I’ve learned patience—what really matters is the process, not the product. Sometimes you will be able to summit a mountain, sometimes not. Mazamas membership requires reaching the summit of a glaciated peak. I summited my first glaciated peak by climbing Mount St. Helens on Mother’s Day. I’ve seen pictures of the summit many times, but nothing compares to seeing it in person. The ancients the world over always had their gods live on a mountain top somewhere; perhaps they were on to something. It is a spiritual experience to be on a summit. I applied for Mazamas membership after the Mount St. Helens climb and received my acceptance letter dated May 18, 2015—35 years to the day when I saw it erupt. What strikes me as astonishing is that I didn’t take up this sport much sooner. I would like to thank my BCEP teachers, Amy Graham, Patrice Cook, and all the assistants from the bottom of my heart for having the patience, enthusiasm, knowledge, and excellent judgment in getting this kid-goat started in the climbing world of mountaineering. Now climb on, because I guarantee you will find yourself at the summit. JULY 2015

WHAT’S MISSING FROM THIS PICTURE? (besides the top of the mountain.)

ANSWER: YOU Get in the picture! Pick up MAP 332S – Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, brand new for 2015. Waterproof, tear resistant, ultralight, solar powered, and just mapped by Green Trails boots on the ground crews in 2014. Available at select bookstores and all the best outdoor stores.

Are You Experienced? Trail Tenders and Climber Stewards Wanted by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager As Mazamas, we know that it takes expert skills and knowledge to successfully reach the summit of a great mountain. That’s why we organize hundreds of climbs and hikes annually to teach the art of mountaineering. Thousands of people work together in pursuit of this craft and in doing so travel throughout the Cascade and Coast Ranges. We also explore the Columbia River Gorge and its mighty crags and giant waterfalls. In all parts of Oregon and Washington, you can find Mazamas climbing high. Our activities also have an impact on the natural environment. Erosion is often noticeable on popular trails. Trash or human waste can be found on most of our public lands. Each of these basic impacts adds up overtime and can hurt ecosystems and watersheds. Thankfully, trail and crag maintenance helps mitigate our impact. This work requires specific knowledge, skills and abilities. To get that experience, Mazamas can receive training and development to become Trail Tending Leaders and/or Climber Stewards. Here’s how you can get involved. Join a Trail Tending or Climber Steward work party. You’ll dig in the dirt, brush trails and fix switchbacks. For some projects, you may help clear drainages, remove downed logs from wilderness trails or build rock staircases. This hands-on experience will introduce you to the work and future opportunities to lead. Each trail project is different and crew leaders must coordinate with land managers before conducting work. However, to make that administrative task easier, Mazamas office staff is working to organize opportunities to assist Trail Tending Leaders or work directly with one of our partner leaders such as the U.S. Forest Service or Trail Keepers of Oregon. This way, our future Trail Tenders and Climber Stewards can focus on giving back to the places we love to play. Similar to our Climb and Hike Leader development programs, Trail Tenders and Climber Stewards need specific skills to safely and effectively lead a trail

maintenance event or dive into a legacy project. Safety training is imperative for all Mazamas leaders such as first-aid and is an agency requirement for all trail crew leaders. Fortunately, we have annual and on-going opportunities in Oregon and Washington to develop your trail maintenance skills and get certified in first-aid. For example, the Pacific Crest Trails Association hosts a Trail Skills College at various locations throughout the West. TSC is a premier, FREE weekend workshop. It is open to new and experienced volunteers and outdoor professionals. This multi-day event in April of each year at Cascade Locks is where many Mazamas have developed their skills. Also, our partners with Trail Keepers of Oregon are highly experienced in sustainable trail maintenance. In the recent past, we’ve utilized their expertise as trail crew leaders and trainers. We are currently working with TKO to create a solution for the Timberline Trail at the Eliot Glacier. We are also looking at future projects on the Mt. Hood National Forest in August. Climber Stewards Mazamas is developing new opportunities to restore and repair popular climbing areas. The wave of new climbers transitioning from a rock gym to the crag is upon us. Our own programs also contribute to the impact at local climbing. That is why we need experienced trail crew leaders at the numerous crags teaching outdoor ethics such as Leave No Trace and leading trail maintenance events. Nobody wants to see trash pile up at a local climbing area like Broughton Bluff. These rock walls and forests are our training grounds for the big mountains. Many new climbers learn to belay, rappel, build anchors, and lead climbs at these local crags. If we protect our backyard, then we’ll protect the Cascades and beyond. That is why the Mazamas along with the Access Fund have worked for years in the Pacific Northwest to steward local climbing areas. In 2015, so far we’ve organized

Legacy Project, Central Oregon. The Access Fund’s Conservation Team members Amanda Peterson and Mike Morin work on rock steps at Koala Rock, the Marsupials (BLM land) near Smith Rock State Park on May 30, 2015.

two work parties at Broughton Bluff and helped with annual stewardship such as Spring Thing at Smith Rock. The Access Fund’s Conservation Team was part of this year’s Pacific Northwest work and added some rock stairs to the legacy project at the Marsupials (BLM). This unique rock staircase will be essential in stabilizing the area to future climber impacts. This is but a snapshot of the many projects waiting for Trail Tenders and Climber Stewards to lead. One of our core values is stewardship. As Mazamas, we believe in protecting the mountain environments. If you are interested in becoming a climber or hiker steward, look for upcoming opportunities for Trail Tending and Climber Stewardship events. Check the Bulletin and online at Mazamas. org/activities-events/trail-tending. For more information contact, Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager. adam@mazamas.org

JULY 2015

100 Years Mazama Library by Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager This year marks two milestones in Mazama history, the 100th anniversary of the Mazama Library and, on July 19, the 121st anniversary of the organization’s founding. The history of the Mazama Library offers a unique look into an often overlooked aspect of the Mazamas: their commitment to intellectual growth and historic preservation. The now famous history of the Mazamas began in the spring of 1894 when William G. Steel dreamt of a new mountain club, composed exclusively of real mountain climbers, to replace the “elevator riding” mountaineers that then made up the Oregon Alpine Club. Steel and a small group of others began quietly planning this new organization. To ensure appropriate membership, it was decided that the group would be inaugurated on the summit of Mt. Hood. Word was spread via newspaper articles and on July 19, 1894, 155 men and 38 women reached the summit. After weathering an early morning sleet storm, 40 of the original climbers stayed on the summit to officially form the new organization and elect William Steel president. As John D. Scott writes in his authoritative history We Climb High, “Thus from the ashes of the now defunct Oregon Alpine Club was born the Mazamas!” Roughly twenty years later in 1914, the first mention of the Mazama Library appears in the organization’s records. What started as a handful of books donated by founding member Charles H. Sholes has grown over the years. As a result of further donations and member generosity, the library encompasses not only books, but also a substantial collection of historical documents, photographs, and mountaineering artifacts.

MAZAMAS

In 1915 Mary C. Henthorne was named chair of the Library Committee and defacto librarian. In addition to her work with the Mazamas, Mary was a children’s librarian and later worked with the Navy to supply books to naval stations and ships at sea. The first library was situated in the Mazamas “clubrooms,” as they were known at the time, in the Northwestern Bank Building located at 621 SW Morrison St. Early on the library collection fit within a single, locked bookcase. Control over the collection was so stringent that getting access to books required, in the words of Scott, a “congressional action.” When the Mazamas moved in 1926 to the Pacific Building at 520 SW Yamhill St., Florence McNeil assumed the librarian role. For eight years, Florence gave the library purpose and direction while adding a collection of maps and expanding its collection of mountaineering book titles. Much to the joy of the membership, the locked case was gone and the books were out in the open with easy access. McNeil was followed in 1934 by Don Onthank, who in addition to being an active member of the Mazamas, was also a prolific collector of mountaineering books and records. Don was renowned among the Mazamas for his knowledge of mountaineering and remained active on the Library Committee until 1980. In 1946, Martha Darcy was

appointed librarian and set about making the Mazama Library her life’s work. In addition to managing the 800 volume collection, she was the first to organize the existing trove of historical records. When she retired, the book collection had grown to over 2,100 volumes. In 1957 the Mazamas outgrew their “clubroom” and moved out of downtown and into Northwest Portland, taking up the second floor of an old motion picture supply depot at 909 NW 19th Avenue. For close to fifty years, the library continued to grow both in scope and in size. With Martha Darcy’s retirement as volunteer librarian in 1968, the management of the Mazamas library was passed to a dedicated group of revolving volunteers for roughly the next 35 years. While membership in the Library Committee fluctuated (some years there were as few as three people), they found time to process and catalog new books, maintain the subscriptions, and keep the

library orderly and available to members. In 1970, Vera Dafoe recognized the need for the Mazamas to begin collecting mountaineering artifacts. Of her own accord, she began assembling and organizing a collection of artifacts in her basement due to a lack of space in the 19th Avenue building. In addition to her work as a climb leader and member of the Publication Committee, Vera has, for more than 45 years, worked to assemble, catalog, and manage the Mazamas world class collection of artifacts. The 1980s saw the library reach a low ebb. Faced with declining interest and low involvement, in 1981, the Board let it be known that unless substantial changes were made, the Mazama Library would sunset in a year. Gary Beyl rallied a group of concerned members and set about recruiting trained individuals to help stave off the coming demise. Thanks to their efforts, a strong team of trained librarians, archivists, and concerned members was assembled that would help the library not only avoid closure, but go on to expand in ways none could have foreseen. If 1981 was the low point, 1985 marked the library’s turning point. The year began with the library closing for the only time in its history while the clubrooms underwent renovation. In February, the library was reopened in new and improved quarters in the 19th Avenue building. The library was now a first-class facility, which would set the tone for the years to come. As a member of the Library Committee, starting in 1987, Barbara Marquam was

instrumental in the hiring of Bob Lockerby, the Mazamas first paid librarian in 1999. Already an 18 year veteran of the Mazamas, Bob brought a unique knowledge of mountaineering and the library collection to the position, having voluntarily cataloged over 3,000 volumes before being hired. Bob served on both the Library and Climbing Committees and is responsible for the creation of the 100 Year Index to the Mazamas Annuals, a full index of everyone who was a member of the organization, and in collaboration with Virginia Seiser, the creation of two publications on mountaineering libraries and serials. All are constantly used and invaluable resources to the library and the membership. Over the years Bob has advocated tirelessly on behalf of the library for more funding, better facilities, and increased security. Barbara also encouraged the hiring of Sharon Howe, a consulting archivist, to bring additional structure to the growing collection. Barbara helped organize the archives, coordinated volunteers, initiated the Oral History Project, and assisted with the move from 19th Avenue to the Mazama Mountaineering Center in 2007, among other things. No discussion of the Mazama Library is complete without recognition of the many years of hard work, beginning in 1985, supplied by Jeff Thomas, the organization’s contract photographic and museum collection archivists. Over his thirty years of association, Jeff has worked tirelessly to search out, acquire, catalog, and preserve historic photographs, unique climbing

equipment, and other items of historical value to the Mazamas. Jeff is the author of three Oregon climbing guides and, like Don Onthank, a “walking encyclopedia” of invaluable information on mountaineering lore, climbing history, and Mazama accomplishments. The Mazama Library is a testament to the value that the membership has always placed on their history. It represents a vast wealth of information about mountaineering, Mazama history, and numerous other topics that inspire, inform, and provide historical context to Mazama members. The library would not be possible if not for the countless number of volunteers that over the years have given their most valuable of gifts, the gift of time, and for that the Mazamas will always be grateful. In 1954, Mary Mason wrote that the library offers something of interest to everyone and reminds us that “it is yours to use.”

Scott, J. (1969). We Climb High A Chronology of the Mazamas. Portland, OR: Mazamas. Mason, M. (1954). Our Growing Library. Mazamas, 36(13), 58-58.

Clockwise, from top left: The Mazamas first rented space in the Northwestern Bank Building 1914; Mazama Clubrooms, June 24, 1940; Book plate;, Don Onthank; Inset: Martha Darcy.

Gorge Rescue On the importance of training and practicing skills by Wim Aarts

he details of the gorge rescue on May 30, 2015 have been published extensively (see sidebar and links), and in this article Sarah and I wanted to focus on what we perceive as some of the main reasons this rescue went smoothly and was successful.

EXPERIENCE/TRAINING Everyone involved in the rescue had a long history of hiking and climbing. Of the four Mazamas present three had completed the Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), three had graduated from Intermediate Climbing School, three had taken Advanced Snow & Ice (ASI), two had been directly involved in shaping the curriculum for and teaching for ASI, two were Advanced Rock graduates, and two

had extensive training in high angle rescue scenarios. All four had Mountaineering First Aid training, one was a Wilderness First Responder, and one was an intensive care nurse. The lone non-Mazama, a friend visiting from Germany, had extensive training in mountaineering that is likely comparable to what the Mazamas offers. Three had Mazama climb leader training, with one being an active climb leader. The team was physically fit and had a familiarity with each other and how everyone worked. This limited the need for verbal communication and provided a comfort level with how the scenario would play out. So, how can you start or continue your training through the Mazama education system to reach this level of experience? STEP 1 : GETTING STARTED Let’s start as a BCEP student where you’ll learn basic climbing and hiking

April Meads safely back on the trail postrescue. Photo: Stacy Meads

techniques: gear for hiking, climbing, knots, rope handling, keeping yourself comfortable, fed and hydrated. BCEP students are introduced to hiking in the Gorge, climbing at Horsethief, snow climbing and techniques at Mt. Hood. This start leads a lot of people to develop a lifelong love for the outdoors in a way that some at least had not even thought possible.

Rescue in the Gorge: Right Place at the Right Time by Sarah Bradham On Sunday, May 31, we set out for a day hike in the Columbia River Gorge. We had a loose plan to start at the Horsetail Falls trailhead, hike up Rock of Ages, and either come back down the Horsetail Falls trailhead and cross Oneonta Creek or take the longer route around Bell Creek. The hike up ROA was lung busting as usual, but quickly gave way to the lovely rock arch and views of the river, and always exciting (ok, somewhat scary) walk across the exposed Devil’s Backbone, and within 3 miles we were at 2,900 feet and at our first trail intersection. We headed west on the Horsetail Creek trail, crossed a few creeks, and quickly covered the 1.8 miles to the turnoff for Bell Creek. The last time I had been on Bell Creek was to perform some trail work on this much neglected 3.3 mile stretch of trail. We found the trail to be in remarkably good shape, and got to enjoy some beautiful old growth forest. Stopping to count the rings on one downed tree, it seemed as though some of the trees we were looking at were more than 500 years old. Gorgeous! On our way back, half a mile past Triple Falls, a little more than a mile and a half from the car, we encountered a man quickly hiking up the trail. Noting our large packs, he called out “do any of you have a rope?”

MAZAMAS

We picked up the pace. We arrived at the fall point, to a small group of people looking down the slope. A woman—we later learned this was the victim’s sister Stacy—had a cell phone to her ear and was talking with a 911 dispatcher. We looked down the slope and could just see a girl’s head, arms outstretched, hanging on to a root. From where we were located it looked as though she was dangling and had nothing but air below her. This is when all of our Mazama climbing and rescue training kicked in. Being in a group of people that had hiked and trained together, very little communication was required to actually make a plan. Our German visitor Michael dropped his pack and ran down the trail to see if there was a way to reach her from below. Wim jumped into action and started scouting from above to see if there was a safe way down to her. I busted open my pack to look at what I was carrying that might help with a rescue. What we needed was a rope. What we had was clothing. Adam dug into his pack, and so did Anna-Marie. Bystanders chipped in. We quickly tied together rain jackets, long sleeve shirts, pants —what knot would you choose for this purpose?—to make an improvised rope. We tested each knot after it was tied, pulling hard on the line to make sure we didn’t see any slippage ... ▶▶ Continued at: tinyurl.com/gorgerescue ▶▶ Read April’s story: tinyurl.com/aprilmeads

STEP TWO: INTERMEDIATE In the next step our BCEP student gets more experience and becomes more curious to learn more, push their own limits, or expand their skills and knowledge. To do that, Mazamas offers many skillbuilders such as Introduction to Rock Anchors, Wilderness Navigation, Snow Camping, and Crevasse Rescue. The Mountaineering First Aid program teaches you how to treat first aid issues in the backcountry as well as how to manage a stressful medical scenario such as a mass casualty event. As you continue climbing and want to learn and do more, you might make the commitment to take ICS. This is one of the core Mazama programs, and it begins to diverge from specific skills through rote memorization. You will see different instructors execute skills differently, use a variety of types of gear and hopefully learn that the answer to your question is often, “it depends.” For many participants this is a dreaded answer, however it is the correct answer. There are often many different ways to accomplish the same goal, the trick is to learn which one is the best way to do what you need in the moment. If you don’t have a rope, but have a dozen goretex jackets, can you execute a rescue? Will any climb incident, rock fall gully, sloppy snow instead of firm snow always look the same and can you apply the same solution each time? Once you have climbed the South Side of Mt. Hood more than once, you will know the answer. You might as well be on another planet if you climb in January or in June. STEP 3 As you acquire more experience, explore different mountains or routes and trails, you’ll be adding to your skills toolbox. Here is really where your own initiative comes into play. Take an active role and ask questions when you’re out with more experienced climbers. As a Mazama climb leader, I don’t always remember to ask who has questions and who needs something explained. I’m busy getting this climb or hike done in a safe way, and it’s easy to plod along if no one has any questions.

TAKEAWAYS: ▶▶ Learn the skills: The learning process will expose you to aspects of climbing that will enhance your ability to safely expand your range of activities. ▶▶ Practice your skills: Even the best training fades away if not repeated and refreshed. Come out and help teach or assist with classes. ▶▶ Be ready to throw out the playbook: You may not have the tools you have trained with in classes or on your climbs, but that doesn’t mean you don’t have the training and tools to do something. Look at what you have, remember your training, and improvise when you can. ▶▶ Stay fit: Climbing, hiking and rescues are aerobic activities, stay reasonably fit and know your strengths. ▶▶ Stop and think before you jump into a situation, you do not want to make things worse. If you cannot safely help, do not create another victim.

We returned to the scene the following week with ropes to get a better feel for the area. Adam Nawrot recreating Wim’s arm rappel to the spot where April was hanging on. Photo: Wim Aarts

Are your kids constantly climbing everything and anything? Help them transition that natural climbing instinct into a fun and safe sport. The Mazamas is hosting a 5-session camp for 9-17 year-olds designed to teach kids how to safely climb and belay.

youth camp Dates: Tue. & Thur., July 28–Aug. 6 and Sat., Aug. 8 Time: 6:30-8:30 p.m. (Sat., 9 a.m.- noon) Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland; Saturday: The Source Rock Gym in Vancouver, WA. Cost: $50 No climbing experience needed and the Mazamas will provide all the necessary gear.

Ages 9–17

For more information and to register: mazamas.org/education-classes/youth-climb-camp/

JULY 2015

No Picnic On Mt. Hood by Jerome Leedy, Kirk Newgard, Brad Noren

n Felice Benuzzi’s No Picnic on Mount Kenya, Benuzzi and two Italian POWs hatch a plan to escape the confinement of a World War II-era, British-controlled, civilian POW camp and climb Mount Kenya. The mountain looms over the camp, just as Mount Hood looms over Portland, always present, taunting, with the promise of freedom. Eighteen days later, after their escape and climb, they break back into the POW camp and surrender themselves to the British Commandant. They are rewarded with solitary confinement.

As with Benuzzi’s adventure, we were a team of three: Jerome Leedy, Kirk Newgard, and Brad Noren. But we didn’t have 18 days. We had two. Our objective was the Sunshine Route on the north side of Mt. Hood. We craved the liberating feeling of breaking out and climbing, before the inevitable return to the tedium of our own camp life—a.k.a., the desk job and the solitary confinement of the cubicle farm. All three of us had done one of the “easy” routes on Mt. Rainier and didn’t expect the Sunshine Route to be more difficult. But after this climb, with the conditions we encountered, we agreed that the Sunshine Route felt more technically challenging, more remote, and certainly less often climbed. We didn’t see anyone on the north side of the mountain, aside from a couple of AT skiers on the lower part of Cooper Spur. This private climb was a developmental advance for each of us as climbers, facilitated by training we had

MAZAMAS

Almost finished with the ascent portion of the climb. Photo: Bradley Noren

acquired through our association with the Mazamas. On Saturday morning, we left a car at Timberline and drove around to the Tilly Jane trailhead. The gate on the road to Tilly Jane/Cloud Cap was still locked, so up the trail we went. From the stone shelter we dropped down the lateral moraine and found a good place to begin our Eliot Glacier crossing, just below the lower ice fall. Our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) instructors and assistants had taught us to rope up for glacier travel and how to move efficiently as a team. We roped up and set out on to the glacier. We ascended a ramp in the middle of the lower icefall that lead to the plateau below the upper ice fall. Here we found crevasses that were concealed by a recent

dump of snow. By the time we were higher on the route, each of us had the experience of punching through a concealed crevasse. We knew that we would encounter crevasses, so when assembling the team, one important criterion was that each had taken the Crevasse Rescue Skill-builder with the Mazamas. Luckily, the crevasses we found were relatively small. The girth of our packs effectively prevented us from dropping below grade. Still, the experience of punching through, with legs dangling, was exhilarating—something not easily simulated in the skill-builder field session. After crossing the Eliot Glacier and some overzealous searching for the best place to camp, we found a snow-free rock ring at approximately 8,000 feet, near the base of Snow Dome at the southern end

of the Langille Crags. Training from the Snow Camping Skill-builder and Kirk’s Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) experience kicked in. We set up camp and began melting snow for water. Some 15 liters later, we retired early and rested, anticipating an alpine start the next day. Sunday morning we woke at 2 a.m., and were packed-up, roped-up, and on the snow by 3:30 a.m. Small teams don’t always move faster. It was a long slog up Snow Dome. True to the name of the route, we enjoyed a burst of sunshine at dawn. Sunshine always brightens the spirits. We worried that the sun would make the snow too soft, too early, but the gusty winds that had kicked up overnight kept everything firm. Here, Jerome’s cross-over knowledge from Mazamas Ski Mountaineering course proved invaluable, as he was able to adeptly assess the snow conditions. We came to the conclusion that the high winds might actually facilitate our success. At the top of Snow Dome, we passed Anderson Rock—named after Andy Anderson, the Hood River Crag Rat’s second Big Squeek. Above Anderson Rock, but below the Coe Glacier bergschrund, we encountered another crevasse field. More punching through. In our pre-trip discussions, we knew that crossing the Coe Glacier bergschrund would be a significant challenge. When we arrived at the edge, we found that there was no easy way across. Rather than traversing far to the right, passing under Horseshoe Rock to join Cathedral Ridge, we saw an opportunity to get around the bergschrund on the left. Because it was already much later in the day than expected, we decided to ascend to the left of Horseshoe Rock. Actually, Jerome decided. The other two had no other choice but to follow. This course of action may have been prompted by the rocks that were falling off Horseshoe Rock

and shooting past. This was the most direct route to the ridge but meant a couple hundred feet Tackling one of the steeper sections. Photo: Bradley Noren of steep snow. (The ice showering down, but the high winds guidebooks say 50 (again) kept the snow firm and everything degrees.) It may have been greater than in place. that in this low snow year. Once down to the Hogsback, we met a Before starting this pitch, we unroped, volunteer from Portland Mountain Rescue convinced by Kirk’s ICS experience and (PMR). He had been collecting samples and persuasive style that had landed him in taking measurements from the fumaroles. the Climb Leader Development Program. We told him that we had just completed Pickets would take too long. Ice screws the Sunshine route. He excitedly shared would not have held. A roped team, stories of his climbs on that route. One of without protection, wouldn’t be able to his favorite on the mountain, he said. We arrest a fall. So, we agreed to observe Rule thanked him for his work on the mountain #1 of climbing: Do not fall. Each used a with PMR. second tool, swinging the picks into the It was amazing to see how the crater snow. Three solid points at all times. Each area had changed, since the new fumaroles climber climbing for himself. emerged. The Old Chute route now skips This was the crux of the climb and the most of the Hogsback, dropping to the point at which we were committed to climber’s left very early and skirting around going up and over, rather than retreating. the fumaroles on the Crater Rock-side to Calves burned, but did not cramp. The Hot Rocks. steps cut by the leader held, in spite of the As we dropped below Crater Rock, the sugar snow under the Styrofoam surface grade lessened. With the objective dangers layer. The wind gusts increased in their behind us, all that remained was the long intensity, causing us at times to thrust slog back to the Timberline parking lot. ourselves into the slope, hoping that the The long…stumbling…slog. wind would simply wash over us. We were Ascents of the Sunshine route are not very relieved when we finally reached the uncommon, but this climb tested us and safety of Queen’s Chair. Packs off, break we met with success. It might not have time. From Queen’s Chair, we gained Cathedral been possible without the education and training we received with the Mazamas. Ridge proper and followed it up to the As Benuzzi and his team found, this summit ridge. The winds were high and mountaineering business was no picnic, we were spent. After a brief discussion but as we broke back into our routines we decided against going over to the on Monday morning, submitting to true summit. Our objective had been the the monotony of the work-week, in Sunshine route and we had accomplished that. But, of course, the climb was only half exchange for mortgage payments and gear purchases, the memory of the feeling of over. freedom on the Sunshine Route made the We downclimbed the Old Chute. We had little things fall away. worried about hitting this section so late in the day, with the potential for rocks and JULY 2015

Agua Sin Gas First Ascent: III WI4/Steep Snow by John Frieh

f you look at a map of the state of Alaska you’ll notice a long, thin strip of land extending to the southeast. Southeast Alaska, sometimes referred to as the Alaska Panhandle, lies west from the northern half of British Columbia. Running through this strip of land are the Coast Mountains; so-named because of their proximity to the sea coast.

Near the town of Petersburg, Alaska and one of the major geographic features of this part of Alaska is the Stikine Icecap, a large icefield straddled on the Alaska– British Columbia boundary. The Stikine Icecap area is home to a number of technically demanding, dangerous peaks and spires of granite that have garnered comparisons to Patagonia. Peaks of particular renown include Devil’s Thumb, Witches Tits, and the Burkett Needle, they have attracted many of

MAZAMAS

the greats over the years including Fred Beckey, Jon Krakauer, Alex Lowe, and Colin Haley. In the 1947 American Alpine Journal Beckey wrote “Although they do not rise so high as the great mountains farther to the northwest these peaks of the AlaskaCanada Boundary are magnificent in their alpine grandeur and challenging in their technical difficulties. Here, indeed, is one of Alaska’s neglected mountain regions, not without mystery.”

I made my first trip to the Stikine Icecap in 2009 to make the first ascent of the west ridge of Burkett Needle. The climbing on the Needle was trumped only by the scenery. The Icecap was teeming with beautiful lines. I was amazed to learn that many of them were unclimbed and as a result have returned nearly every year to attempt a first ascent on one of them. In 2014 while approaching the West Witches Tit (tinyurl.com/Witch-Frieh) Jess Roskelley and I spotted a very attractive looking face on the other side of what local climbers call “The Cauldron” or “Witches Cauldron.” I took a few photos and made a mental note to keep it in mind when good conditions and a weather window coincided. I didn’t expect it would be the following year. Bottom: John Frieh following some simul terrain. Photo: Doug Shepherd. Middle: Doug Shepherd on top with the Stikine Ice Cap stretching out behind him. Photo: John Frieh

After reading that Southeast Alaska’s snowpack was 30 percent of normal, I assumed I wouldn’t get to climb there unless a weather window appeared early in the year. In August of 2013 I had been shut down by extremely difficult glacier conditions in a low snow year and I didn’t want another “scenic helicopter flight” trip. I was in Salt Lake City on Monday, May 11 training with some climbers at Gym Jones when I noticed a solid weather window was taking shape. I pinged the usual suspects and Doug Shepherd was available for a quick trip. In 2012 Doug and I had made the first ascent of the northwest face of Mt. Burkett and Doug was eager to return to the Stikine Icecap. I flew home from Salt Lake City Tuesday night, packed bags, and drove to Seattle Wednesday night. Doug and I caught the early flight north to Petersburg, Alaska the next day. We flew into the Icecap Thursday afternoon. After we had been dropped off and were setting up camp, we discovered that I had forgotten the stove back in

Portland. This fact would have ended most trips on the spot, but the high pressure system and warm temperatures had turned the glacier into mush and we found a few shallow pools of water. Still ... no hot water meant no coffee which is an epic fail in my book. Doug earned Partner Of The Year award for not killing me right then and there. Given the heat wave and lack of stove, we decided a 2 a.m. departure from camp, in hopes of climbing in a day and returning to the glacier puddles, was our best bet. We were up at 1 a.m. and found the same puddles we had collected water from the night prior unfrozen so we knew it was going to be a sloppy snow conditions. The cold oatmeal and no coffee for breakfast made for one of the worst meals I have had in the mountains in a while. I guess I deserved it. We managed most of the face before sunrise but we found it slow going with numerous crevasses and sloppy snow in the unusual heat. We were hoping for a direct line up the headwall to the summit

but given the temps and conditions opted for a safer, less direct line off the face climbing left of the summit. We climbed the 4,000-foot face in about 12 hours. Though we encountered some vertical snow/snice in places, the majority of the terrain was moderate. All in all it was a good day out. We managed to snag a pick up the same day and were back in Petersburg late in the day on May 15 making for a less than 24 hour Petersburg to Petersburg trip. Given my stove oversight we opted to name the route “Agua sin gas” which in Spanish means “water without gas.” This term is usually reserved for still water (i.e. not sparkling water), but we also thought it held true for our situation. Though we did not have a stove we did take a single 70m 9.2mm Petzl Volta, 6 17cm Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screws, a single rack of cams to #3 BD camalot, and 10 slings in addition to our personal kit. I was able to squeeze all of my stuff into an Arcteryx FL 30 backpack.

ugh Hike, bike and sea kayak thro s on New Zealand’s pure wildernes our incredible adventures - New Zealand’s most experienced and trusted adventure operator - Off-the-beaten track by day and cosy lodgings by night - Uber-fun, talented local guides

Hike, bike and sea kayak thro New Zea lan ugh our incredi d’s wilderness on ble advent ures.

L D’ S B E

HIKING TRIPS

THE

Get your FREE BROCHURE at: activenewzealand.com or call 1 800 661 9073

New Zealand

ADVENTURE TRIPS

E TUR

CUSTOM TRIPS

ACT12345 5/15

Explore New Zealand with the locals – it’s our backyard

PICKETS - SNOW ANCHORS - PULLEYS - DESCENDERS - EDGE PROTECTION - CARABINERS - RIGGING PLATES - RINGS

PHOTO BY: DEAN FLEMING

The Spire’s ability to easily lower a climber while in auto-block mode leads the pack in ease of use, and its right at home on your skinny alpine rope. • • • • •

Auto-block mode for 1 or 2 seconding climbers. Lowering a seconding climber is quick, simple and secure Certified for ropes from 7.5-10.7mm (optimized for ropes 8.9-9.5) Ultralight (56 grams) Made in USA

SEATTLE MANUFACTURING CORPORATION | FERNDALE, WA | 360-366-5534 | INFO@SMCGEAR.NET | WWW.SMCGEAR.NET

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS May 10, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Darrell Weston, Asst: Josh Mitchell. Doug Brittain, Alicia Chivers, Kelly Fagan, Brandon Farley, Evan Johnson, Jim Kutz, Walker McAninch, Andrea Ogston, Adonay Solleiro, Ildiko Toth May 17, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Stephanie Buer. Margaret Gauthier, Kim Hefty, George Mercure, Tony Spiering, Josh Van Otterloo May 19, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Azure Olson, Asst: Rico Micallef. Mike Austin, Daniel Beigel, Svetlana Motsiff, Ryan Reed, John Serbis, Ted Sin May 23, Eagle Peak, Eagle Peak Trail. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Amanda Crochet. Beth Copeland, Kristin Dreves, Ardel Frick, Kendra Howard, Kati Mayfield, Wes McNamara May 23, Mt. Ellinor, Standard. Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Gary Bishop. Aaron Bailey, Eric Chapman, Alyssa Hursh, Craig Karls May 24, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Sojo Hendrix. Bri Berglund, Erin Devlin, Dyanne Foster, Marty Hinkle, Andrea Ogston, Gary Riggs, Dan Sherman, John Sterbis May 27, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Patrice Cook, Asst: Brad Hupy. Terry Barclay, Matt Geer, Lindsay Perlen, Leslis Shotola, Larry Welsh May 30, Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Johnny Leahy. Mike Austin, Scott Britell, Dawn Hachemeister, Elijah Luna, Darin Richardson, Adam Russell, Greg Simons, David Thomley May 30, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Rico Micallef. Stephanie Buer, Susan Jeltsch, Joe Petsche, Rachael Pike, Lisa Ripps, Joan Wallace May 30, Castle–Pinnacle, Reflection Lake. Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Stephen Hirai. Sujay Deshmukh, Karthik Jambunathan, Ryan Johnson, Linda Man, Kirk Newgard, Stacey Reding, Dawn Van Seggen, Trozell Weaver, Barbara Weiss May 30, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Darrell Weston, Asst: Andrew Osborn. Amanda Brown, Sarah Christensen, Matt Gillette, Alyssa Hursch, Jessica Knight, Tyler Mays, Aaron Mendelson, Anna Osborn, Jennifer Plitzko

May 30, Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier. Leader: Greg Scott, Asst: Heather Campbell. Brit Laurenti, Wendy Leone, John McNulty, Megan Miller, Drew Prochniak, Vivek Tiwari May 31, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Steve Heikala. Eric Dattoli, Ken Park, Jennifer Van Houten, John Wilson May 31, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst: Kirk Newgard. Mark Beyer, Sujay Deshmukh, Karthik Jambunathan, Ryan Johnson, Nico Swartz, Mark Swartz, Trozell Weaver, Barbara Weiss June 5, Mt. Ellinor, Standard. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Kate Evans, Drew Gaylord, Cathy Gaylord

June 6, Mt. Angeles, East Ridge. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Eric Einspruch. Kate Evans, Drew Gaylord, Cathy Gaylord, Jeff Maag, Scott Stevenson June 7, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Daniel Mick. Bri Berglund, Madeline Lowry Woods, Ashley Nelson, Kim Osgood, Chad Rossmeiss, Rebecca Witherow June 8, Mt. Hood, Sunshine. Leader: Gary Ballou, Asst: Kirk Newgard. Eric Bruckbauer, Justin Colquhoun, Eric Krueger, Wendy Leone, Josh Mitchell, Michelle Van Kleeck June 8, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Steve Warner. Stevan Arychuk, Eric Dattoli

June 5, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Grant Causton. Bob Farnes, John Kirkley, Greg Lewis, Kevin Lyons, Tatsuro Ogisu, Rikki Seguin June 5, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Brit Laurenti. Kristen Frank, Gavin Giovagnoii, Joe Kellett, Allison Legg, Jen Sacklin, Michael Simek, Charles Stilwell, Mark Wilson, Daren Zook June 6, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Steven Heikkila, Asst: Mike Levis. Christopher Hicks, Megan McElroy, Camille Peterson, Trevis Peterson June 6, The Tooth, South Face. Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Rico Micallef. Amanda Crochet, Eric Docherty, Martin Gillen, Amy Goodwin, Karen Graves, Andrew Leaf, Brad Noren, Rob Olsztyn

June 10, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Kyle Johnson. Nick John, Kaitlin Rupert, Jen Travers June 10, Castle–Pinnacle, Reflection Lake. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Eugene Lewins. Rayce Boucher, Kate Feiertag, Tammie Gillen, Martin Gillen, Shannon Leahy, Johnny Leahy June 11, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Eugene Lewins. Rayce Boucher, Tammie Gillen, Martin Gillen, Shannon Leahy, Johnny Leahy June 8, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Scott Stevenson. Jenny Bedell-Stiles, Darrin Gunkel, Diane Lloyd, Aleksi Merilainen, Erica Timm, Maggie Woodward

June 10, Unicorn, Snow Lake. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Ally Imbody. Michael Austin, Scott Britell, Dyanne Foster, Charles Reneau, Tracie Weitzman, Shirley Welch June 11, Castle Pinnacle, Standard Traverse. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Ally Imbody. Michael Austin, Scott Brittel, Dyanne Foster, Charles Reneau, Marty Scott, Tracie Weitzman June 13, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Dian Ott. Scott Baumberger, Jennifer Harmon, Diane Lloyd, David Lorang, Chad Rossmeissl, Philip Shatz, Mariela Szwarcberg, Erica Timm June 13, Mt. Thielsen, Standard. Leader: Eileen Kiely, Asst: Teresa Redman. Vanessa Barrett, Alyssa Hursh, Iddo Kaddim, Daphna Kaddim, Sarah Lydecker, Mark Swartz June 13, Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge. Leader: Alex Fox, Asst: Steve Heikkila. Mahesh Dasarath, Lisa Kosher, Walker McAninch, Andy Nuttbrock, James Pitkin, Jeff Shuman, Larry Watercott June 14, Castle-Pinnacle, Traverse. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Guy Wettstein. Nicholas Baer, Scott Baumberger, Diane Lloyd, David Lorang, Chad Rossmeissl, Erica Timm June 14, The Brothers, Lena Lake. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Tom Davidson. Ann Ames, Angela Bohlke, Howard Buck, Seeger Fisher, Steven Loos, Ryan Reed June 14, Mt. Adams, South Side. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Kim Hefty. Pierre Blouin, Abhishek Dhanotia, Marie Dion, Sabina Grover, Michael Hynes, Richard Sandefur, Amarillis Zevallos June 14, Middle Sister, North Ridge. Leader: Bill McLoughlin, Asst: Eric Kennedy. Cheryl Frankenfield, Anne Harris, Tyler Kuiawa, Jessica Miracle, Justin Miracle, Michael Nied, Patrick Orr, Adonay Solleiro, John Strebis, Patrick Thorpe

Nick John, left, and Kaitlin Rupert, right, on their first summit of Mt. Hood on June 10 with climb leader Tim Scott, middle. Photo: Jen Travers. JULY 2015

20S & 30S

July Explorations with the 20s & 30s Join the fun—get involved today!

The 20s & 30s Mazamas have been exploring far and wide this year thus far, and we’d love for you to join us on future adventures! Our website and Meetup page are continually updated with hikes and trips. We have committee meetings each month that anyone can attend, and we are always looking for volunteer hike leaders to join our team. Come on an adventure this summer to find out what we’re all about! A couple of places that we explored in May were: FLAG POINT AND WEST POINT On Sunday, May 17 a group of us hiked up to the lookout tower at Flag Point, near the Badger Creek Wilderness. It was hike leader Cabe Nicksic’s first lead and he did an outstanding job! We were able to climb up the lookout tower to the top for the excellent view of Mt. Hood and the Cascades, and then hiked out to West Point for the equally awesome view out there. We capped off the day with a stop at Solstice Wood Fire Cafe & Bar in Hood River for pizza—a great end to a great day! BATY BUTTE Baty Butte is a little-known summit between Table Rock and the Bull of the Woods Wilderness. On May 30 a group of eight Mazamas piled into a huge SUV and carpooled to the remote trailhead, where we tackled the climb to the summit of Thunder Mountain. From there we dropped down to scenic Skookum Lake, and then followed abandoned roads and a quiet trail to the base of Baty Butte. We made the decision to follow a faint spur trail up to the summit of Baty Butte, where the view stretched from Mt. Rainier to the Three Sisters. It was a fantastic day, with almost perfect weather and excellent company.

20s & 30s group enjoying a hike to Flag Point. Photo: Matt Reeder

JOIN US FOR THESE FUTURE EVENTS: ANGEL’S REST, SUNSET HIKE AND POTLUCK: TUESDAY, JUNE 30 We’ll meet after work and hike up Angel’s Rest, where we’ll eat dinner and watch the sunset and moonrise. We’ll hike back down in the dark and return to Portland around 11 p.m. All participants need a flashlight and some food to share. Hike: 4.5 miles, 1,600 feet elevation gain. Drive: 55 miles Meet: Gateway Transit Center parking garage, SE corner, 6:30 p.m. Leader: Keith Dechant BACKPACKING TRIP, OLD CASCADES LOOP: FRIDAY, JULY 3–SUNDAY, JULY 5 With campgrounds and trails busy over the holiday weekend, it’s an excellent time to check out one of the least-known and quietest places in Western Oregon. Over three days we’ll pass through grove after grove of ancient forest, climb over wildflower-covered ridges and descend down into remote, solitary canyons. This is not a trip for beginners to backpacking, as the terrain is rough, the trails infrequently maintained and the elevation gain high. If you can, bring some hedge clippers and a small saw, this area does not get a lot of trail maintenance. Members $10/nonmembers $20. For logistical purposes this trip will be limited to 8 participants. Meetup details to be shared only with those signed up. Leader: Matt Reeder. Limited to 8 participants, email leader to sign up. LABOR DAY CAMPING TRIP, CLACKAMAS RIVER: FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 4–MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 How well do you know your own backyard? Our annual tradition is to explore a destination far away on Labor Day Weekend, but this year we are staying close to home. We have reserved a group campsite far up the beautiful canyon of the Clackamas River, and we will make this our base camp for exploring the best of what the area has to offer. Expect everything from leisurely strolls nearby to long treks in the Bull of the Woods and Mt. Jefferson Wilderness Areas. We’ll offer a variety of activities every day, and back at camp expect swimming, barbecues and camaraderie. Don’t miss out on the best way to end the summer! Members: $20/NonMembers: $30. Leader: Matt Reeder

MAZAMAS

A Student’s Perspective

2015 LEADERSHIP COHORT by Mike Kacmar Mike Kacmar and his team, leading their hike. Photo: Mike Kacmar.

Leadership Cohort

Training the Next Generation of Mazama Leaders by Kati Mayfield, Mazama Volunteer Manager “My goal this weekend is to have at least one fascinating conversation” said Nick John, one of the 18 graduates of the 2015 Mazama Leadership Cohort during the warm-up exercise on our weekend retreat. Fascinating conversations abounded that weekend, and during the four classroom sessions leading up to the weekend. This was the second year the Mazamas ran the Leadership Cohort. Last year, the cohort was designed by a number of Mazama committees to identify emerging leaders early on in their Mazama career and provide the resources and connections they would need to succeed at any leadership role in the organization. After the successful pilot, we reimagined the program curriculum and format to create an even more inspiring program in 2015. This year, cohort participants identified key leadership characteristics they wanted to enhance or learn, and explored their individual leadership styles through scenarios and discussion. They also met Mazama leaders who had signed up to mentor them through the program, and then worked in small groups with those mentors to plan capstone leadership projects. Each student chose a leadership track—Activity Leadership, Education Leadership or Event Leadership—and

created a project related to that track, which they presented during the capstone weekend, held at Tyee Lodge on Mt. Hood. Sarah Root led the charge on redeveloping the curriculum and format and was the primary session facilitator. Adam Russell carefully managed the planning timeline and deliverables, and kept our sessions on schedule as well. Kati Mayfield was the registrar and supported student logistics. Larry Beck, Eugene Lewins, Karl Furlong, Carol Lane, Marty Scott, and Doug Couch were the mentors who provided guidance and good humor to the participants as they planned their projects. Thank you, mentors! The graduates of the 2015 Mazama Leadership Cohort are: Sharia Ahmed Kalene Ardt Scott Britell Robert Dormaier Anne Harris Nicholas John Mike Kacmar Sergey Kiselev Sarah Lydecker

Scott McCormick Michael Nguyen Joe Petsche Kaitlin Rupert Jennifer Sacklin Greg Simons Thomas Ulrich Tracie Weitzman Joe Westersund

If you meet one of these fine individuals, shake their hand, welcome them to the organization, and thank them for investing their time and talents in the Mazamas.

I was nominated to join this unique program from BCEP leaders, Larry Beck and Lisa Brady and was both honored and indebted to accept this wonderful opportunity! The program was crafted brilliantly. Early on, we deeply discovered ourselves and our classmates through a Myers Briggs personality test and focused listening exercises. Sarah Lydecker, Sharia Ahmed, Tracie Weitzman, and I were mentored by Mazama veteran, Eugene Lewins. Our goal: “Lead a Hike.” During trip planning, we learned early on that our group was experienced, knowledgeable, and had unique strengths to bring to the table. We learned it is necessary to be very clear in our communication and to reach consensus. On “hike day”, everything felt extremely fluid and we enjoyed the present. The shared feeling of group empowerment is intensely rewarding! Upon reflection, it taught us that being well-prepared, accepting humility, showing passion and enthusiasm, and setting clear expectations were four (of many) excellent leadership qualities. Everyone else delivered impressive projects with rich and thoughtful content. The ideas of a group fitness/ nutrition class pre-BCEP, a reunion post-BCEP for those struggling to get on climbs, and how to prepare for a 3-night ski/snowshoe trip around Crater Lake (so much gear!) were very enlightening. By the end of the program, each of us came out many friends stronger. Added with BCEP, it gives us a larger network to grow from. Also, it allows us to become better leaders, professionals, and human beings in this incredible city. Special thanks to Sarah, Adam, and Kati for all of their hard work in guiding us to grow deeper and to the Mazamas for having this wonderful program and being community-oriented! JULY 2015

Inaugural Families Mountain 101 Graduates! Congratulations—A History Making Year by Bob Murphy For the first time in Mazama history, we are pleased to announce the graduation of kids (and parents too) fram an introduction to mountaineering class: Families Mountaineering 101. Through slowly layering skills, taking kids and adults into completely new territories (mentally, physically and geographically), and allowing ample time for practice (including a lot of repetition), kids as young as 7 years old mastered all the skills required of a BCEP graduate, and many performed their skills testing flawlessly! We car camped, snow camped, survived trains in the middle of the night, rock climbed, snow climbed and joined in a wonderful community of parents and kids—where we could pursue the freedom of the hills as a family activity. Looking back on this past year it is amazing how far everyone has come. I recall the first night, when folks fumbled with their harnesses, cut cords, tied knots and the instructors grappled with how to best keep the attention of easily bored and distracted kids. Justin and I sent out very detailed prospectuses with specific gear requirements for each session. At the end of the class I intentionally sent an email out for our Smith weekend that had no gear list and everyone came completed prepared for a weekend of dry camping and climbing! At our Smith capstone weekend, the sun was intense and the kids where done climbing by 2 p.m. on both Saturday and Sunday. I had the pleasure to walk out with the kids in my groups leaving the parents (with two Advanced Rock grads) behind to climb a bit on their own, clean the anchors, coil and carry the ropes. Walking out with these two groups of kids was a sheer pleasure! Without prompting they carefully made their way through a third class down climb. They looked out and helped each other through the most difficult sections. As

MAZAMAS

we hiked along the river trail they were full of energy, fun stories and verbal games, and we delighted in wading in the Crooked River and running through the sprinklers. They hiked the last steep incline up to the cars without a single complaint. They had all grown tremendously over the last nine months while in FM101 and they were fun to hang out with as we hiked almost two miles in nearly 90 degree weather after a long session of rock climbing. I was in awe of the maturity and composure they carried themselves with while they kept an innocent air of fun about them. I would like to congratulate all the graduates: Jason Blackwell Michele Blackwell Miles Blackwell Josie Blanke Etta Brick Margaret Brick Jeannie Chinn Ruth Chinn Isabela Doumbia Luca Einspruch Ian Fowler Jamie Hunter Evan Kelly Rachel Kofron Ruby Kofron Zella Kofron Corinna Kupelwieser Jalyn Linse Jason Linse Jen Linse Jenna Linse Jeffrey Lovell

Kaleb Martin Kyla Martin Brendan Mecheski Hayley Mecheski Patrick Mecheski Sarah Mecheski Jake Norton Sam O’Leary Erik Rotherham Julia Rotherham Mary Rotherham Laura Rumford Leah Rumford Mark Rumford Samantha Rumford Matilda Slusher Aviva Stein and Class members: John Boroski Xavier Boroski Asa Slusher

A few people stood out this past year and exemplified qualities of the entire class. For me, one of the gifts of climbing is how much it teaches one about oneself. At times, climbing puts you in a great deal of stress and, for me, this is where a lot of self-learning takes place. ▶▶ The Two Bird Peak Award: For getting out of your comfort zone, letting your emotions hang out, embracing the experience and becoming stronger as a result. Awarded to Michelle Blackwell.

▶▶ The Digging Deep Award: For finding yourself at a point where you feel you cannot go any further, but then finding a reserve deep in yourself you did not know you had. Awarded to Isabella Doumbia and Sam O’Leary. ▶▶ The Scrappy Award: For sheer determination and resourcefulness in discovering a way to get through a challenge. Awarded to Sarah Mecheski ▶▶ The Snow Enthusiasm Award: For the love of snow, snow climbing and exuberating positive energy during the snow sessions. Awarded to Jamie Hunter. ▶▶ The Rock Enthusiasm Award: For the love of rock climbing and getting more charged as the difficulty and complexity of the skills and climbing increases. Awarded to Ruby Kofron.

It took a lot of help to envision, create and run this class. A huge special thank you to Justin Rotherham, assistant coordinator who spent countless hours with me on the phone discussing ideas, and Craig Martin, assistant extraordinaire whose boundless energy carried through the entire class. And a huge thank you to all the other parents whose invaluable assistance and dedicated hours of volunteering made the MMC and field sessions a reality: Charles Blanke Julie Doumbia Kim Hefty Rich Hunter Eric Einspruch Chris Fowler

Henry Kofron Nicole Martin Nancy Miller Andrea McKee Katie Norton Robert Norton

Justin Rotherham Bill Stein Jennifer Travers Molly Vogt Brian Wetzel

A big thank you to Richard Caldwell, Larry Beck, Dick Bronder, and Josh Lockerby for their snow session curriculum development and John Godino for teaching navigation. My best wishes to Justin Rotherham and Craig Martin, Co-Coordinators of the FM101 Class of 2016, as they refine the class and take it to the next level in this upcoming year. To learn more about FM101 for 2015/16 and other Families activities and programs, please visit our webpage under â&#x20AC;&#x153;activities + eventsâ&#x20AC;? on www.mazamas.org. To join our email list please drop us a line at families@mazamas.org.

From top: Hiking practice. Photo: Bob Murphy. Learning to rappell at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Nancy Miller. Snow day at Mt. Hood. Photo: Patrick Mecheski. JULY 2015

CLASSIC MAZAMAS

Picnics, Walks, Lunches and More For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS ▶▶ Lanning Russell, 503-7751164, lanning16@gmail.com (co-chair) ▶▶ Rose Marie Gilbert, 503-762-2357, gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net (co-chair) ▶▶ Kate Evans, 503-635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com (EC Liaison) ▶▶ Main email: classics@ mazamas.org. If you are interested in leading an event in August, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert or Lanning Russell by July 12. DICK AND JANE MILLER’S POTLUCK PICNIC: SATURDAY JULY 4 If you’ve never attended one of the Dick & Jane’s picnics, or have been before, plan to come this year and invite another Classic Mazama or significant other to share in potluck

fashion: main dish, salad or dessert. Lemonade and water will be provided, along with . dinnerware and utensils. Plan to arrive at 12:30 p.m.; we’ll eat at 1 p.m. Address: 17745 SW Cooper Mtn. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to 217. Go south on 217 to the Scholls Ferry Rd. exit across from Washington Square. Take a right onto Scholls Ferry Road and go west to SW 175th Avenue. Turn right and go up the hill ¾ mile to Cooper Mtn. Lane on the left. This is on a curve with limited sight distance, so use caution making the left turn onto Cooper Mtn. Lane. Then follow the Miller signs and orange traffic cones to the Miller driveway. If you have any questions about the picnic, call Dick or Jane at 503-590-3598. We’ll see you there! LADD’S ADDITION WALK: THURSDAY JULY 23 This is a 2.5 mile walk through the historic

Ladd Addition in Southeast Portland. We will see a variety of homes. the famous diamond-shaped “circles” containing Portland Rose Test Gardens, and the Square, a unique old time hardware store without a parking lot, the Clinton Street Theater, the Hat Museum and many funkyinteresting businesses which are an important part of this neighborhood. Lunch will be at nearby food carts which offer a variety of choices and picnic tables. Meet at 8:30 a.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center and we will carpool to our starting point. Leader Rose Marie Gilbert, 503-762-2357 NORTH COAST CLASSIC HIKER GETAWAY: AUG. 10-14 Five days of relaxed-pace hiking in the North coast area, including planned hikes of Neahkanie Mt., Tillamook Head, Fort to Sea, Astoria River Walk, and Saddle Mt. We will meet at the trailhead for each hike. Hikes will be listed in the

Bulletin under Trail Trips. For those who want to stay in the area, Fort Stevens State Park will be the leader’s base. It is a popular campground so early reservations are recommended. For details contact Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier.com. LODGE LUNCH: SEPT. 11 Details in the August Bulletin. NORTHWEST ALPACAS TOUR: SEPT. 17 Tour the gardens and see the alpacas at Northwest Alpacas. Arranged by Dick Miller, companion of Fito and Toyo. Details in the August Bulletin. CIRCLE SOUTH SISTER: SEPT. 28–OCT. 2 Currently full. (Details in the April Bulletin.) Email David at David.R.Christopher@gmail. com to be added to wait list. HIKING THE DRAGON KINGDOM— WEST: OCT. 2017 Fifteen days of day hikes in Bhutan. For details contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail. com.

Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM)

A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential. 28

MAZAMAS

503.684.9698

Climbing Beyond the Sound Barrier Teaching the Ropes in a New Way by Eugene Lewins

usting winds tore any words out of my mouth. I looked up from the base of the chimney as my Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) student prepared to give her first outdoor multi-pitch belay. Verbal communication would be next to impossible as she peered over the edge at the next excited and nervous climber waiting at the base. I grinned. Because of her, our team was better prepared for these conditions than I could have dreamed!

This year, for the first time, the Mazamas integrated a completely deaf climber into BCEP. I was fortunate enough to have Saralinka on my team, the Lucky Friday group. Mazamas provided excellent support, with outstanding sign interpreters at the lectures and field sessions. Yet it was still up to us as a team to make this work. The first challenge was my own teaching. A little internet research indicated how much easier lip reading is when there is a known context and overall sense of the topic. So I found myself becoming more intentional about my lesson plan, explaining in advance what I would cover, and summarizing the main points. Um, yeah. I also took those teaching seminars where they explain why this is good general practice. But it took this experience of having a really focused intention, to up my own practice of communication to the next level. And I know that all the learners on the team benefited.

Happy climbing team on Rooster Rock. From left: Erin Briddick, Eugene Lewins, Saralinka, and Steven Loos. Photo: Scott Brittel.

The next challenge was developing our own set of visually-enhanced belay signals. “That’s me” became a touch to the chest. “Climbing” a cat like paw movement with both hands. No wonder I was so confident that our windy climb at Horsethief would be belayed without problem. Saralinka confidently looked down and made the one handed symbol for “Climb On”—like the Climbing symbol but of course with the brake hand securely fixed to the rope. Moments later Rich was stemming wide on the vertical rock, safely belayed. Perhaps the most subtle challenge was integrating ourselves as a real team. The motivation was certainly there from all. Without my prompting, every member of the team stepped up to learn and practice the visually-enhanced symbols. We wanted to be ready to support each other, whether in the graduating test or on a summer climb. I quickly came to honor Saralinka’s courage to step into such a busy and potentially dangerous world of mountaineering, using her own wits and the cooperation of others to keep her oriented to the dynamic, teamclimbing environment. And on that journey I began to learn something subtle and yet profound: to be more present. Frankly, I am sometimes discouraged at the end of the trip to realize that I have spent much of the time engaged in the same mental loop-tape I have in town, and hiking conversations about work or politics do little to break that cycle. Sure there were times when I wished

to be able to chat with Saralinka on the trail as I did with every other student, asking about the other parts of their life, “getting to know them” as I might imagine. Yet in a sense it was also a kind of relief. On the way down from a long conditioning hike of Table Mountain, I found myself in pace with her through the hot afternoon forest. Words were not only impossible, but superfluous. I wondered what she could tell, if anything, of the wind in the trees. Which made me wonder what I myself was experiencing. We came to a simple log bridge over the creek, and at one point—only at this one point—in the crossing, a cool breeze of air flowed down above the channel of the water. I gestured for her to join me, and we smiled in mutual recognition of this little bliss. Later, we climbed Rooster Rock; BCEP grads out on the real rock, another step on the path to the freedom of the hills. No sign interpreter, just us, the Lucky Friday team. Using a pen and pad, Saralinka told me that she had climbed with other groups, but this experience was special. She was truly one of the team. “The Mazamas has spoilt me with communication.” I couldn’t imagine higher praise.

Laura Burger: Our New Membership & Development Assistant Laura Burger recently joined the Mazama staff as the Membership & Development Assistant. She will keep communications with members more streamlined and enable us to take care of a higher volume of member needs more efficiently. On the development side, she will be auditing donations to make sure that they are properly recorded and will also enable us to focus on creating communication with donors that will be effective and timely. Laura is a native Portlander who grew up skiing, camping, and hiking throughout the Pacific Northwest. In high school she

received her SCUBA certification and was lucky enough to be able to travel with family to Hawaii, Greece, and St. Lucia to dive. She attended the University of California–San Diego for two years and raced with the ski team on weekends at Mammoth. She then transferred to the University of Sydney, studying marine science for a semester and extending her time travelling there to explore the Blue Mountains and then take a trip to Fiji to do some deep water shark dives. After returning to the U.S. she settled in Eugene to finish her degree in biology.

After a stint working at her family’s winery in McMinnville and at a coffee roasting company, she found the Mazamas. In her fist few weeks here Laura has focused on learning about the history as well as the current programs and projects happening at the Mazamas. She has really enjoyed learning about the organization and meeting members and volunteers. She loves that everyone is so positive and enthusiastic. This summer she plans to summit her first glaciated peak.

JULY 2015

Mazama Trail Tending Weekend July 23–25, 2015

Once again we will be tending our namesake adopted trail on Mt. Hood over a 3-day period in July. The Dollar Lake fire four years ago will continue to present challenges for years to come in maintaining this trail. Participants can opt to work any or all of the days as Trail Tending leaders will be camping at the parking lot all 3 days and will be there to greet and train all volunteers. We will have carpooling leaders available to lead convoys each morning leaving from Portland area locations. Note that the campsite is dry (BYO water) but we will have a porta-potty available. Long pants, long sleeved shirt, gloves and sturdy boots are USFS requirements for work parties so be sure to arrive properly equipped (eye protection, i.e. sunglasses, is also encouraged). People will be assigned to work tasks suitable for their strengths and preferences and led to the work site. The maximum hike in will be 3.5

miles, but most work sites will be much closer to the trailhead, as little as ¼ mile. During the mid-day lunch break we will try to pick spots with great views! After lunch a short work session will continue and we plan to have everyone back in the parking lot by 3 p.m. for cold drinks before carpooling back to Portland. As always, trail tending events are free of charge. Driving directions: Highway 26 eastbound to ZigZag, turn left on Lolo Pass Road, proceed to the top of the pass. Take the second right turn at the pass onto road 18 (gravel) and drive about 6 miles to where it turns back to pavement and take an immediate right onto road 1810. The trailhead is 2.5 miles up road 1810 at a large, gravel parking lot. Driving time from Portland is around an hour and 45 minutes. Get full details and contact information on page 34.

Hike the Timberline Trail Join the 10th annual hike of Mt. Hood’s Timberline Trail over Labor Day weekend—Saturday, Sep. 5–Monday, Sep. 7, 2015 This is an exciting time to be on Mt. Hood, with the autumn feel in the air, while we are treated to sun-drenched days. This hike includes all meals, including pack lunches, and dorm lodging at Mazama Lodge, along with van shuttle transportation to and from trailheads. Each day, you’ll hike approximately 13–15 miles of the Timberline Trail with just a daypack. This allows us more freedom to explore and enjoy the vistas. Each evening, the vans return us to the Mazama Lodge near Government Camp, where we will enjoy great food, hot showers, and a comfortable place to sleep—as well as a few good stories from the day before turning in for the night. Don’t miss out on this great event. To apply online, or to find out more information, go to the Round-the-Mountain page at: mazamas.org/activities-events/round-the-mountain/ . Read a great blog post by one of the 2014 RTM participants: http://mazamas.blogspot.com/2015/04/rtm-magic-ofjourney-around-mt-hood.html Questions? E-mail us at rtm@mazamas.org.

MAZAMAS

MOUNT ST. HELENS MEDLEY! 8 hikes over the course of 9 days will allow you to fully experience the Mount St. Helens area. Enjoy 1 hike, all 8, or anything in between. Rex Breunsbach and Dan Smith alternate leads. See the full listing on page 34 for hike details. ▶▶ #1: Friday, July 10—Lava Canyon. 6.6 miles; 1,600 ft. ▶▶ #2: Saturday, July 11—Mt. Margaret. 11.6 miles, 2,000 ft. ▶▶ #3: Sunday, July 12—Chocolate Falls. 9 miles 1,500 ft. ▶▶ #4: Monday, July 13—Sheep Canyon. 11.5 miles 2,270 ft. ▶▶ #5: Wednesday, July 15—Toutle Trail. 9 miles 1,500 ft. ▶▶ #6: Thursday, July 16—Ape CanyonPlains of Abraham. 10.6 miles 1,300 ft. ▶▶ #7: Friday, July 17—Butte Camp. 8 miles 1,650 ft. ▶▶ #8: Friday, July 18—Loowit Falls/ Plains of Abraham Loop 11.7 miles 2,600 ft

JULY 2015

ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC

Go Exploring in 2015! Enjoy affordable adventure travel with qualified trip leaders this summer. CANADIAN ROCKIES HIKING AND CLIMBING Aug. 8–22

Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings. Join us on a 14-day camping, hiking, backpacking, and climbing outing to the Canadian Rockies. We will visit Banff, Jasper, and Mt. Assiniboine Parks. We’ll travel to Banff, explore Assiniboine Provincial Park, Mt. Athabasca, and Jasper National Park. Participants should be able to carry a backpack with five day’s food and all gear. Those climbing Mt. Athabasca should have at least BCEP or ICS level training and have climbed Mt. Hood or similar glaciated peaks. Costs: Estimated $410 to $510 for group size of 6–12 (including leaders). Camping and Mazama fees included. Participants responsible for transportation, food, park entry costs. Fees in excess of actual campsites’ cost will be refunded. A $100 deposit is due June 15, 2015. For more information, contact leader Bob Breivogel: breivog@teleport.com.

OREGON COAST HIKING Aug. 10–16

Get full details online—mazamas. org/activities-events/outings. Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike

MAZAMA

AFFILIATE OUTING

MAZAMAS

approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe Whittington, joewhittington@ gmail.com , or assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo.com, for more details.

JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK

Aug. 28–Sep. 10: Full—Alternates Only Get full details online—mazamas.org/ activities-events/outings.

5.7 climbers who can use anchors and set up their own rappels. This outing is for those who can endure scrambling, climbing, and squeezing through very narrow, tight, and dark terrain for an extended time. Outing cost is estimated to be around $400 which includes transportation from Salt Lake City airport and all Mazama fees (not including airfare to Salt Lake City and meals). Lodging will be at primitive campsites at BLM lands in Utah’s deserts. A deposit of $100 is required upon acceptance of application. Leaders: Vaqas Malik, vaqas.malik@yahoo. com, Alexander Smirnov, alexander.smirnov@ gmail.com,

TECHNICAL SLOT CANYONEERING Oct. 13–18

Explore hidden and mystical worlds of slot canyon in remote deserts of Southern Utah. During six days the group will take on several technical and challenging routes in areas around Lake Powell, San Rafael Swell, Robber Roost and Canyon Land National Park. Desert navigation and skills in technical canyoneering will take you to amazing slot canyons to experience some fascinating rock formations in intriguing ambient light. No prior experience in canyoneering is required but participants should be skilled

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015

This will be a 19-day trip, fully supported by local guides and porters, with 13 days of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary, the very heart of the amazing Annapurna Massif, home to more than 30 individual peaks, some over 26,000 ft. in elevation. We will visit numerous Garung villages along the way and stay overnight at two of the massif ’s many climbing base camps, including Machhapuchhre (summit elevation 22,943 ft.) at 12,139 ft. and Annapurna South (summit elevation 23,684 ft.) at 13,550 ft. The remaining days will be available to explore on our own in exotic and chaotic Kathmandu and the charming, lakeside city of Pokhara—the two largest population centers in Nepal. The cost is $2,995. This is a chance to visit one of the highest and densest concentrations of mountain peaks anywhere in the world. This is a true adventure travel bargain. Led by Mazama Jim Ronning.

MAZAMA LODGE

MAZAMA LODGE WORK DAY

Skiing, Hiking, and Singing Summer Fun at the Lodge With the recent heat wave in Western Oregon the last thing on everyone’s mind is installing a pellet stove. However, that is exactly what we are doing at Mazama Lodge. The main source of heat for the lodge has been an oil furnace that runs constantly during the winter. When the lodge was first built we had a Franklin Stove in the basement and the “TV/ Clackamas” room was used for wood storage. The Franklin stove was removed nearly two decades ago because it wasn’t efficient. As many of our guests know when the outside air is below 20 degrees Fahreinheit the furnace just can’t keep up. Our new efficient pellet stove will be installed by the end of the month. Thank you lodge committee and executive council for this great lodge improvement! You can look forward to a warm lodge this next winter. AUGUST AVAILABILITY Because of the lack of snow Timberline is expecting a very limited ski season this August on the Palmer Snow Field. This means much more room at the lodge this August for mid-week visits.

As a reminder, Mazama Lodge is serving breakfast lunch and dinner seven days a week through the end of August. LOST LAKE CHUCKWAGON JULY 25–26 We still have some room for the Lost Lake Chuckwagon during the weekend of July 25 and 26. This is a great way to explore the western side of Mt. Hood as we hike from Timberline Lodge to Lost Lake, covering 22 miles in two days. All you need to do is carry your day pack with your lunch; the lodge crew provides all your meals and transports your your gear. To register, go to: mazamas.org/lodge/lost-lakechuckwagon-weekend/ VON TRAPP SINGERS, AUG. 25 Join us for dinner and a show with the Von Trapps! At 6:30 p.m. there will a chicken schnitzel dinner (with a vegetarian option as well), followed by a concert by the great-grandchildren of the Captain and Maria Von Trapp. Tickets are $36 per person. Check out a YouTube short and purchase tickets at mazamas. org/lodge/lodge-sponsoredevents/

The first 2015 work day at Mazama Lodge was held on Sunday, May 17. Seventeen folks traveled to the lodge and put their energy to work getting it ready for the summer season. The workday was early this year due to the lack of snowpack. The weather, dismal on Friday and Saturday, cleared on Sunday; it was a beautiful day at the Lodge. Those who came up Saturday evening were treated to an impromptu Ed Rea Concert on the piano and guitar. Nothing finer than enjoying Ed’s music in the evening at Mazama Lodge. Thanks Ed.

MAJOR WORK DAY ACHIEVEMENTS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING; ▶▶ Firewood: the remaining stack of logs were cut into rounds and split and stacked in racks. Firewood lasted all winter without running out. We will need to gather more logs over the summer for next winter. Look for some ‘firewood’ days this summer. ▶▶ Snow Shutters: were taken down and stored for the summer. ▶▶ Trail Rope: was taken down and stored under the south deck. ▶▶ Mattresses: all the mattresses in the dorms were washed. ▶▶ Teepee: the Teepee was erected successfully by a team of folks without much previous Teepee experience. ▶▶ Windows: all of the main floor windows were washed. ▶▶ Dusting: main floor shelves, mantles and counters were dusted and cleaned. ▶▶ Trail Chips: the trail up to West Leg Road received more wood chips. ▶▶ Driveway potholes: potholes on the entrance drive way were filled with gravel. ▶▶ Gate Post: the gate post at the entrance off West Leg Road was repaired. ▶▶ Banister: banisters were added to the front steps of the lodge. ▶▶ Stairway Light: the stairway light fixture was repaired with new ballast Workday participants included Jim VanLente, Ken Dubois, Hillary Mead, Larry Watercott, Ed Rea, Cecil Jasso, Rex Breunsbach, Molly Vogt, Phil Baird, Dyanne Foster, Lisa Cenotto, Bob Stayton, Leota McElwee and son. Special thanks to Marie Quarles and Tom Quarles for donating their tractor and chipper for the day. Thanks to Jim VanLente for the terrific fajita lunch we all enjoyed. Thanks to Lodge Mgr. Charles and staff Rene and Jake. They make your lodge visit memorable. Visit your Mazama Lodge–it is a beautiful place to be. Look for the fall work day announcement in the October Bulletin.

JULY 2015

TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE

Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open

to members and non-members alike. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503819-9250 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, log on to https://mazamas2.org. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR UPDATES

Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates!

20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/ activities-events/20sand30s

HK B2 Jul 01 (Wed) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. We hike up past scenic Rodney Falls to Hamilton Mt. with views of the gorge, Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Table Mt. Discover Pass required. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 State Park MMC 8 a.m. MU

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION Wilderness—Limit 12 inidicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader..

Hiking team led by Dan Smith (second from right) on Yocum Ridge on June 13, 2015. Photo: Sarah Bradham.

HK A1.5 Jul 03 (Fri) Lucia & Moulton Falls. Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Leader has a new hip and ready to lead this fun summer hike. In shade most of the day seeing three waterfalls, Lucia, Moulton, and Yacolt Creek. Lunch at the Chelatchie Prairie RR station. We’ll beat the weekend crowds. 5.5 miles 200 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Jul 04 (Sat) Herman Creek Pinnacles. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. Start off the 4th with a short hike in the gorge on a nice trail that crosses Herman Creek and visits Pacific Crest Falls and the interesting Pinnacles. Get back early for your afternoon and evening festivities. 6 miles 950 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 04 (Sat) Horse Shoe Ridge. Sheri Alice Smith 503-8079373. Wilderness—Limit 12. Four miles of well-graded switchbacks through gorgeous forest. Big bang views up top along flower-filled alpine gardens. View of 5 volcanos from the summit. Home in time for BQ and fireworks. 10.4 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2 Jul 04 (Sat) Nesmith Ridge to Nesmith Point. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Celebrate July 4 from one of the highest points in the gorge. Take the challenging scramble up the ridge to Corky’s corner, then the standard route from there. 9.8 miles 3,810 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. MU

MAZAMAS

HK A1.5 Jul 05 (Sun) Heritage Trees #4 King’s Hill–Goose Hollow. Tom Guyot 503-761-9519. This urban hike will stop at 16 species of Portland’s Heritage Trees. Hike at a moderate pace and learn about trees and some of Portland’s history. Meet at the Couch Park playground, corner of NW Hoyt and NW 20th St. Park on nearby side streets. Dogs are welcome. 4 miles 375 ft. Dr. 0 none 9 a.m. HK B2 Jul 05 (Sun) Bald Mt. via Lolo Pass. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. Hike on a peaceful section of the PCT from Lolo Pass to a lollypop loop of Bald Mt. with views

of Mt. Hood and the valley of the Muddy Fork of the Sandy, as well as a wildflower display. 7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 110 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jul 05 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop. Tom Eggers 503334-6356. This hike has a little bit of everything—forest canopies, boulder/rock scrambles and staggeringly lovely views. We’ll go up the Heartbreak trail and come down via the west ridge. Group will stay together. $5/car fee to park at Bonneville Hot Springs. 10 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jul 08 (Wed) Mt. Defiance. Kate Evans 503-635-6540. Wilderness—Limit 12. We’ll be going up Starvation Ridge and down the Defiance Trail on this challenging Gorge hike. Bring poles and plenty of water. 11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 MMC 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Jul 10 (Fri) Lava Canyon. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. St. Helens Medley #1—We will go down into Lava Canyon on ladders to a great lunch spot with view of river. Then back up and cross on suspension bridge. 6.6 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 32 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. MU

STREET RAMBLES

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles

Mt. Tabor Ramble Eastside

JULY DATES ▶▶ Tuesdays: July 7, 14, 21, 28 ▶▶ Thursday: July 2, 9, 16, 23, 30

Walk at a brisk pace from the Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) to the top of Mt. Tabor. Then spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/hiking this spring/summer. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk; bring cash if interested in grabbing a quick bite. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd & Stark) 6 p.m. Leader: Meg Linza, 503-502-8782. $2 (arrive a little early to sign in). Dates: July 1, 8, 15, 22, 29

Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REI-Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.

HK A1.5 Jul 11 (Sat) Different Route Near Ponytail Falls. Carolyn Jenkins 503-422-6456. Hike through shady woods along Columbia River Gorge 400 trail to Ponytail Falls. Walk behind the falls for cooling mists. Continue to a view down into Oneonta Gorge. Lunch near the falls. 4 miles 350 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 10 a.m. HK B2 Jul 11 (Sat) Ape Canyon. Wayne Lincoln 503-245-9193. Hike up through forest and onto open slopes of Mount St. Helens and onto Plains of Abraham. View the healing destruction. Great views in good weather. Return same route. 11 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 160 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Jul 11 (Sat) Mt. Margaret. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #2—Climb through the blown-down but slowly rejuvenating forest from Norway Pass Trailhead to Norway Pass then follow the very spine of the Mt. Margaret Backcountry to the summit of Mt. Margaret. 11.6 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 112 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. HK C2 Jul 11 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Sojo Hendrix sojo42@ gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Tough Gorge trail ascent through some lovely forest in the Hatfield Wilderness leading to views of distant Mount St. Helens to the north and nearby Mt. Defiance to the east. Lunch at the lake before returning. 13.2 miles 4,160 ft. Dr. 88 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A1.5 Jul 12 (Sun) Steigerwald Lake NWR. Jim Selby 828-5085094. This gem of a wildlife hike is close-in with great views of Mt. Hood. Sleep in or go to early church and still get in a leisurely hike through Columbia River lowlands. Eagles, ospreys, red-winged blackbirds, and water fowl for sure, plus dozens of other birds. Back to Gateway by 4:30 p.m. 5 miles 50 ft. Dr. 28 TH Gateway 11 a.m. MU

HK B2 Jul 12 (Sun) June Lake— Chocolate Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@ teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #3—Starting from Marble Mt. SnoPark, this hike climbs past June Lake timberline. We will then follow the Loowit Trail over to Chocolate Falls and return on the climbers trail. 9 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 30 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. HK A2 Jul 13 (Mon) Linnton Loop Hike. Adam Russell russell. adam.m@gmail.com. A refreshing morning hike starts near Linnton. This hike takes us through the shady Forest Park trees for a new perspective. Meet at Linnton Trailhead at 9 a.m. and leave shortly after. For additional info, check out www.oregonhikers.org/ field_guide/Linnton_Loop_Hike 5.2 miles 930 ft. Dr. 0 Meet at trailhead (Linnton Trailhead) 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 13 (Mon) Sheep Canyon. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. St. Helens Medley #4—The hike will climb to almost timberline. Then we make our way to ridge to view the blast from the eruption . Good boots and poles are a plus. Bring extra water. Northwest Forest Pass. 11.5 miles 2,270 ft. Dr. 26 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. HK B2 Jul 15 (Wed) Toutle Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #5—Starting at Kalama Horse Camp we will climb past Redrock Pass and finish at Blue Lake Trailhead. We will cross a lava flow and end up on a lahar. 9 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 26 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 16 (Thu) Ape CanyonPlains of Abraham. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. St. Helens Medley #6—This is one of the best places to observe the effects a large lahar has on the land. This hike climbs along the edge of the huge Muddy River lahar then to great view down the sharply cut upper gorge of Apr Canyon. Northwest Forest Pass. 10.6 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 32 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. MU

HK B2 Jul 17 (Fri) Butte Camp. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. St. Helens Medley #7—The hike takes you across lava beds and through forest from Redrock Pass trail head on the Toutle Trail to the junction with the Butte Camp Trail. Them on to the Loowit Trail at timberline on the south side of Mt. St. Helens. Northwest Forest Pass. 8 miles 1,650 ft. Dr. 27 Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Jul 17 (Fri) Wild Cheat Meadow/Triangulation Peak Hike. William O’Brien 503-6795194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Beautiful hike in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness to a peak that had been a former fire lookout site. Great views of Mt. Jefferson and Mt. Hood, and the Sisters as well as a cave with a framed view of Jefferson. Wildflowers will be out with Larkspur dominating. Exploratory hike. 12.2 miles 2,500 ft. Dr. 206 miles Tualatin (Durham) Park and Ride 7 a.m. MU HK A2 Jul 18 (Sat) Heritage Trees #5 Laurelhurst. Tom Guyot 503761-9519. This urban hike stops at Heritage Trees in the Laurelhurst neighborhood. The pace will be moderate and includes stops in Laurelhurst Park and Lone Fir Cemetery. Along the way, we’ll see 15 very impressive trees representing 12 species. Meet in the MMC parking lot at the corner of SE 43rd and SE Stark St. Dog friendly hike. 4.5 miles 400 ft. Dr. 0 none 9 a.m. HK B1.5 Jul 18 (Sat) Kings Mountain. Rick Amodeo 503-8049397. It’s a “trail in your face” hike since we’ll be gaining over 1,000 ft. per mile, so we will stop as needed and enjoy the Oregon Coast Range. At the top we will sign the summit register and settle in the meadow for lunch. Prepare to get sweaty! 5.5 miles 2,780 ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th west end of lot. 9 a.m.

continued on next page

Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

JULY 2015

Trail Trips, continued from previous page HK B2 Jul 18 (Sat) Loowit Falls —Plains of Abraham Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. St. Helens Medley #8—Up close and personal. From Windy Pass we will hike to Loowit Falls with warm water flowing from the crater of Mount St Helens, then looping back over Windy Pass across the Plains of Abraham and back to the cars. 11.7 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 120 TH Lone Fir Resort, Cougar WA. 9 a.m. HK B1.5 Jul 19 (Sun) Tom-Dick Mountain. Richard Getgen teambears@frontier.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Gentle trail to Mirror Lake and nice grade to summit for view of Hood and other peaks. No sign-up list, just be among first 12 at meeting place. 7.2 miles 1,715 ft. Dr. 94 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C1.5 Jul 19 (Sun) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Regis Krug 503-704-6442/regis_krug@mentor. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. While there are about 10 peaks with this name in Oregon, this is one of the highest and it is situated just to the east of Mt. Hood. The summit overlooks the Cascade Peaks from

MAZAMAS

the Three Sisters to Rainier as well as the Columbia River Plateau. Enjoy dramatic rock pinnacles along one of the main routes to the summit. 11 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway TC 7 a.m. MU SR B3 Jul 21 (Tue) Triple Crown. Bob Breivogel 503-292-2940. Council Crest, Hoyt, and Pittock on a 9 mile, 3 hour ramble. Streets and trails. 9 miles 1700 ft. Dr. 0 REI - Pearl, NW 14th & Johnson 6 p.m. HK B2 Jul 22 (Wed) Cache Meadows via Cripple Creek Trail . Joan Zuber 503 829 8709 or zuberj@ juno.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Hike through old growth forest on a reclaimed USFS abandoned trail in the Clackamas River watershed to Cache Meadows. 11.5 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 80 call leader for details 8 a.m. TT Jul 23 (Thu) Mazamas Trail Tending. Tom Davidson 503 756-5826. Wilderness—Limit 12. Once again we will be tending our namesake adopted trail on Mt. Hood over a 3 day period in July. The Dollar Lake fire four years ago will continue to present challenges for years to come in maintaining this

trail. Participants can opt to work any or all of the days (July 23, 24, 25). Contact leader for clothing and gear requirements. 7 max miles 2,000 max ft. Dr. 116 TH MMC 8 a.m. TT Jul 24 (Fri) Mazamas Trail Tending. Richard Pope 503-8608789. See July 23 listing for details. 7 max miles 2,000 max ft. Dr. 116 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Jul 25 (Sat) Larch Mountain Crater. Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Not a misprint, leaving at 9:30 a.m. to have the best views of snow-capped peaks from Sherrad Point, back by 5 p.m. Flora Huber will assist me and we will take up to 20 hikers. Four types of forests, spectacular views, and crater floor all on the same trail. Reservations only, call 828-508-5094 or email selbyjb@comcast.net 7 miles 1,580 ft. Dr. 64 Gateway 9:30 a.m. MU TT Jul 25 (Sat) Mazamas Trail Tending. Regis Krug 503-704-6442. See July 23 listing for details. 7 max miles 2,000 max ft. Dr. 100 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jul 26 (Sun) Tamanawas Falls (Sherwood CG). Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Follow Cold Spring Creek to grand waterfall. No sign up list, no wilderness limit. 4.4 miles 440 ft. Dr. 136 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Jul 26 (Sun) Cape Horn. Brett Nair 503-847-9550. The Cape Horn Trail is a new trail and one of the closest Gorge trails to the Portland-Vancouver metropolitan area. It features gorgeous views, rocky crags, streams and two waterfalls. http://www. capehorntrail.org/trailmap.html 7 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Jul 26 (Sun) Gumjuwac Saddle to Jean Lake. Sojo Hendrix sojo42@gmail.com. Exploratory. Wilderness—Limit 12. Strenuous hike in the Badger Creek Wilderness to a picturesque alpine lake in mid summer? Yes! Plus great views and wildflowers along the way. Water shoes and towel for swimming optional. Start and finish at the Gumjuwac trailhead on Highway 35. 10.5 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 8 a.m.

Obituary

MAZAMA CLIMB AWARDS

Every year the Mazamas recognizes climbing accomplishments and gives out climbing awards in various categories. The Climbing Committee is now accepting applications for all climbing awards. All qualifying climbs for these awards must be successful official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS ▶▶ Guardian Peaks: Mount. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. ▶▶ Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister. ▶▶ Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Olympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. LEADER AWARDS Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

All qualified applicants are encouraged to apply. Application deadline for the Sixteen Peaks and Terry Becker Award is Sept. 20. For all other awards, the deadline is Oct. 15. Submit your application (including scanned copies of your summit certificates) online. Login to the Mazama Member section of the website, click on Awards, and then Awards–Climbing.

Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes

Your Mazama Realtor

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL: Looking for 2 additional people for Nepal Annapurna Base Camp, 3 more people for September Kilimanjaro trip, and 1 more person for October Kilimanjaro trip. donovan@ embarkadventures.com

Rick Posekany May 2, 1952–June 2, 2015 Richard Leo Posekany, Jr. (Rick) was born to Richard and Patricia Whalen Posekany in Coos Bay, OR on May 2, 1953. He attended Elkton and Mill City Elementary Schools, graduating from Santiam High School as Valedictorian in 1971. While at the University of Oregon, he joined Sigma Chi Fraternity. He later studied forestry at the Chemeketa Community College. Rick was a forester for Frank Lumber Company, Freres Lumber Company, and the US Forest Service. He lived and worked at the Detroit Ranger Station, was very active in the Santiam Canyon community, and served on the school board for over ten years. A lifetime Hoodoo downhill skier, Rick has been a part of the Santiam Pass Ski Patrol since 1975. In 1983, he received his National Ski Patrol appointment. He was an instructor with the SPSP, earning the Oregon Outstanding Mountaineering Instructor Award and the Pacific NW Outstanding Mountaineering Instructor Award. “Posey” fell in love with mountain climbing at the age of 13 and joined the Mazamas in 1973. During the years 19802011 as a Mazama leader, he lead 59 climbs and received the Guardian Peak and the Seven Oregon Summits Awards. The peaks of the Cascades were Rick’s playgrounds. Always in search of greater challenges, Rick has summitted the peaks of Kilimanjaro, Denali, and Aconcagua. He returned several times as guide of his own enterprise, “Santiam Alpine Guides.” Rick Posekany was preceded in death by his father, Richard Sr., earlier this year. Rick is survived by his mother Patricia, step mother Phyllis, daughters Carri and Shauna, son Scott, grandchildren Ethan, Shaylee, Paige and Olivia, sisters Kim and Jean, brother Robert, step brothers Thom, Bob and Larry, nephews Graham, Daniel, Patrick and Joshua, nieces Amber and Cathryn, and his trusty dog, Sam. Posey will be remembered for his integrity, his smile, his strength and energy, his enthusiasm, his great teaching and mentoring skills, his cheerful willingness to help others, his awesome beard, and his big loving heart.

HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.

JULY 2015

EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—JUNE 9, 2015

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Draft Minutes. Attending: Sojo Hendrix–president, Judith Baker–vice president, John Rettig– Secretary, Sunny Freeman, Kate Evans, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber. Absent: Steve Hooker–treasurer. Staff Attending: Lee Davis, Jamie Anderson, Kati Mayfield. The meeting was called to order at 6:36 p.m. by President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present. The agenda was reviewed. Sojo suggested moving the education report to consent agenda as there was no required action. It was moved by Marty Hanson and seconded by Sunny Freeman to approve the agenda as amended; motion carried unanimously. The general minutes from May 12, 2015 were not available for review; this was tabled until next meeting in July. BUSINESS REPORTS Secretary’s Report: The May 31 membership report was read verbally into the record. Kris Olivera from Kern and Thompson presented the audit for the year ended Sep. 30, 2014. The audit report, along with a Communication Letter, Management Letter, Governance Letter, and Management Representation Letter are all incorporated herein by reference. Generally the results were good and there were no surprises; comments were noted regarding the following: ▶▶ The amount of cash reserves on deposit at CDIC is high for an organization our size, and essentially earning no interest. Discussion on this will be deferred to a later meeting. ▶▶ It was questioned whether we were adequately separated from the Foundation; answer was “yes” from an accounting perspective, and “no opinion possible” from a legal perspective. ▶▶ The Communication Letter noted that there were very few Policies and

Procedures in place related to fiscal controls, and that when P&Ps were instantiated in 2013, we revoked all others that were not listed in the P&Ps put in force at that time. It is recommend that a fiscal P&P be drafted and incorporated; John Rettig noted that this had been on the task list for the Financial Affairs committee prior to the committee disbanding. Treasurer’s Report: As of the end of April, Mazamas total operational revenue is $619,909 ($76,231 for the month) and total operating expenses are $693,504 ($101,643 for the month). Assets available for general operations are $48,653 and current total assets are $1,565,370. Executive Director’s Report: From Lee Davis, items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▶▶ The Annual Report is out, detailing our financial position, activities, volunteers, partners, and donors. ▶▶ The upcoming Anniversary Week will highlight the 100th anniversary of our library ▶▶ The member survey is almost ready to send out. ▶▶ The second leadership cohort program has completed with 18 graduates; 24 started ▶▶ We have a volunteer to lead the reconstitution of the Financial Affairs Committee. ▶▶ The Ice Wall is 95 percent complete; we will have sponsorship funds released from CAMP USA when the replacement contract is executed with them. ▶▶ The amicus brief for Bark vs. Northrup was successfully filed, and we await the response of the judge. A communications plan exists and will be put in place if this is granted, in order to explain how we would be participating. ▶▶ A peregrine management plan has

been worked out between Bob Salinger (Audubon), Keith Daellenbach, and Adam Baylor, for the future Madrone Wall county park area. ▶▶ A Mazama Lodge parking lot quick financial report summary was offered: ▷▷ We deposited a prepayment of $14,900 of which $4,000 has been spent ▷▷ A NEPA analysis for the lower area is estimated to cost $60,000 ▷▷ A NEPA analysis for the upper area is estimated to cost $20,000– $40,000 ▷▷ Construction would likely be 2016 if the upper lot ▶▶ Adam Baylor graduates from PSU next week ▶▶ Fundraising has commenced; $12,000 received in pledges in approximately one week ▶▶ We will receive a $50,000 estate gift ▶▶ There will be a Smith Rock Climbing Ranch report next month OLD BUSINESS The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports from the following committees: ▶▶ CISM ▶▶ Conservation ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Families ▶▶ Governing Documents ▶▶ Portland Alpine Festival ▶▶ Publications ▶▶ Strategic Plan ▶▶ Nominating (emailed through public listserv) ▶▶ The reports not requesting action were approved by consensus. Action items requested were: CISM: Requesting additional money be added to the budget for training, $200; and printing, $100. Marty Hanson moved and Sunny Freeman seconded a motion to approve $300 additional as requested; motion carried unanimously.

Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to mazamas.org/members/executive-council-reports/.

MAZAMAS

Conservation: Requested conservation grant funding of $27,000; funds to be drawn from grant budget, $14,000; Oberteuffer Fund, $4,500, and Ellis Fund, $8,500. Judith Baker moved and Kate Evans seconded a motion to approve as requested; motion carried unanimously. Matt Carter presented the nominees for Executive Council and Nominating Committee, they are: Executive: Lynn Dingler Chris Kruell Darrell Weston Barbara Weiss

Nominating: Matt Carter Lis Cooper Hannah Seebach Joan Zuber

Matt noted that while the Executive Council candidate list meets the requirement for a contested election, it was difficult to find candidates with the skills profiles identified as needed this year, and he repeated his request for member skills database support. NEW BUSINESS: It was noted that although the Disciplinary Policy is presently being reviewed by the Governing Documents Committee, and will upon review and acceptance become a part of our policies and procedures, the present policy was approved in June 2014 for only one year, and we need action to avoid a lapse. John Rettig moved and Judith Baker seconded a motion to re-approve the June 2014 version of the Disciplinary Policy as recorded until the earlier of (1) the ongoing review is completed and it is accepted as a Policy and Procedure by EC, or (2) one year. Motion carried unanimously. The summer membership reduced annual dues proposal was tabled until July. We adjourned at 8:30 p.m.

BUDGET TIME by Steve Hooker, Mazama Treasurer Summer at the Mazamas is always a busy time with climbing, hiking and of course planning for the next fiscal year! With 30 committees, strategic development initiatives, grants, maintenance, etc., our budget has become increasingly complex and important. The budget process is all about balancing new opportunities with existing commitments, revenues with expenses. To allow adequate time for input and debate from all parties the budget process begins in June. Committees are already working on developing individual program budgets in June and July. Staff and I will work on forecasting revenues, expenses and cash flow for the next three years. All of this information will be compiled and reconciled in August and submitted to the Executive Council for approval in early September. Our vision is enjoying and protecting the mountains. In pursuit of this we need to balance the necessary funding for a great outdoor experience with the need to keep costs low and therefore accessible to as large a group as possible. Thoughtful financial planning is an important aspect of this mission. Questions? Feel free to contact me at: treasurer@ mazamas.org

Tech Screw-lock

50% OFF

Redpoint Shoes 10 pc. Nut Set

50% OFF

PDX Rock Climbs Guide

25% OFF

24 IN. DYNEMA SLINGS

50% OFF

X-Static Belay D-Lite Screwgate

50% OFF

High Mtn. Axe w/leash

50% OFF

JULY 2015

INTERMEDIATE SNOW CLIMBING MINI-COURSE The Intermediate Snow Climbing Mini-Course is comprised of two evening lectures followed by a two-day weekend field session. This class covers intermediate level alpine snow climbing skills (the level of skill taught in the Mazama ICS program), including proper crampon and ice axe technique for ascending, descending, and traversing high angle snow slopes, roped team travel and negotiating glacial terrain, protection techniques, including running belays, fixed line travel, belayed pitch climbing, and snow anchor building. The field sessions will consist mostly of high angle snow travel where the techniques discussed during the lectures will be practiced.

Laura Bax climbing Cooper Spur on Mt. Hood. Photo: Tyler Bax.

▶▶ Dates: Lectures, Aug. 4 & 6; Field Session, Aug. 8–9 ▶▶ Tuition: $125 members/$175 nonmembers ▶▶ Application period ends July 15 ▶▶ Apply: mazamas.org/education-classes/ intermediate-snow-climbing/