2018 November Mazama Magazine

November 2018 Vol. 100 | No. 11

Bulletin

Inside: Meet the PAFletes Portland Alpine Fest 2018 Schedule BARK Ice Climbing in BC

FOR A DEALER NEAR YOU CALL 1-888.90.CLIMB

CONTACT US MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org | Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd. Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: CLOSED until mid-November

LEE DAVIS Executive Director lee@mazamas.org SARAH BRADHAM Operations Director sarah@mazamas.org ERICA STOCK Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@mazamas.org JOHN BARKHAUSEN Education & Activities Program Coordinator johnbarkhausen@mazamas.org RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

FEATURES First Crack: Ice Climbing in B.C., p. 6 Portland Alpine Fest Schedule, p. 8 Glacier Phenology, p. 12 PAFlete: Libby Sauter, p. 14 PAFlete: Yassine Diboun, p. 15 PAFlete: Elyse Rylander, p. 17 Free Solo Comes to Portland, p. 23 BARK: Protector of Mt. Hood National Forest, p. 32 MONTHLY CONTENT Upcoming Activities, p. 4 AYM, p. 24 Mazama Library Notes, p. 25 Outings, p. 26 Travel Programs, p. 27 Membership Report, p. 28

Successful Climbers, p. 30 Saying Goodbye, p. 34 Classics, p. 35 Mazama Lodge, p. 35 Trail Trips, p. 36 Executive Council, p. 38

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780): Advertising: mazama. ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Director of Marketing & Communications (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org) Members: Jonathan Barrett, Reymond Drew, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, and Katie Polanshek (publications@ mazamas.org)

ADVERTISER INDEX Adidas Terrex, p. 11 Airflare, p. 19 Arc’teryx, p. 39 Beal, p. 19 CAMP Cassin, p. 39 Greentrails Maps, p. 29 Grivel. p. 2 Icebreaker, p. 39 Leatherman, p. 19 Ledlenser, p. 19 Leki, p. 19 Lowa, p. 19 MSR, p. 19 Next Adventure, p. 5 The North Face, p. 22 Montbell, p. 231 The Mountain Shop, p. 21 OMC, p. 38 Patagonia, p. 39 Planet Granite, p. 39 Pro Photo Supply, p. 30 Rab, p. 30 REI, p. 28 Sawyer, p. 30 The Source Climbing Cener, p. 22 Union Wine Co., p. 18 Viso Energy, p. 30 Yatvin Computer Consultants, p. 22 Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Cover: Andy Polloczek on the Rochefort Arête, located on the border between France and Italy. Photo: Alan Rousseau.

Above: Scott Bennett during his Infinity Loop trip on Mt. Rainier.

NOVEMBER 2018 3

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS MAZAMAS NORDIC SKI SCHOOL

MOUNTAINEERING FIRST AID RECERT

We offer traditional cross-country skiing from beginning (never been on skis) to advanced. Beginning telemark is taught in our Nordic Downhill course. And this year we are offering a Backcountry ski course. Matching students’ skills to the appropriate class helps to ensure a safe and fun learning experience. Please consider your current skills when choosing your class including: endurance, how balanced and stable you feel on skis, number of miles you ski, terrain you are able to ski comfortably.

Instructor orientation is on Dec. 11, and student orientation is on Jan. 14. Students will be sorted into teams based on ability level; sessions will be 3 Saturdays or 3 Sundays in January, starting after Martin Luther King Day. Get more details and register from Nov. 1–Dec. 1 at mazamas.org/ nordic.

NOTE: Instructor availability and weather conditions can sometimes lead to rescheduling or cancellations!

Class Dates: Dec. 5 & 6 Registration Opens: Nov. 1 at 9 a.m.

Registration Closes: Nov. 15 Badges Earned: Course: MFA Prerequisites: Current MFA or WFR Certification

QUESTIONS ABOUT MAZAMA NORDIC SKI SCHOOL? Check the Nordic webpage for detailed class descriptions, pricing and other useful information! mazamas. org/nordic Email the Mazama Nordic Committee at nordic@mazamas.org or the Mazama Mountaineering Center at adventure@mazamas.org.

ARE OUR CLASSES FULL? More Nordic ski classes and tours are available through the Oregon Nordic Club. Private lessons available through Wy’East Nordic at wyeastnordic.com/ xc-ski-cross-country.htm

The Mountaineering First Aid Recert course is designed to refresh your wilderness first aid skills, including performing advanced patient assessment, improvising equipment, and coping with wilderness-specific conditions. At the end of the recert, you’ll have the knowledge, skills and ability to make sound decisions in emergency situations. mazamas.org/mfa/

VOLUNTEER APPRECIATION NIGHT

JAN. 18, 2019 6:30–8:30 P.M. AT THE MMC

Are you a Mazama volunteer? Well, then we want to take time out to appreciate YOU! Our new Volunteer Appreciation Nights are an opportunity to socialize with your fellow volunteers, meet people who volunteer in different areas of the Mazamas, play games, win prizes, offer shout-outs to your fellow volunteers, and get updates on what is happening at the Mazamas. Food and drinks are provided.

If you have pictures or quotes you would like to share with your fellow attendees, please send them to sarah@ mazamas.org prior to the events.

Get details and rsvp at beta.mazamas. orf/volunteerappreciation

IDENTIFYING THE SCOPE OF MAZAMA PROGRAMS: COMMUNITY INPUT SESSION

Part of the Building the Future of Mazama Programs Strategic Project NOV. 2, 7–9 P.M. AT THE MMC (HOLMAN AUDITORIUM)

As the Mazamas enter our 125th year, we are working on ways to increase the reach of our mission and work toward achieving our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains. As part of the Mazamas strategic plan, we will focus our attention on creating comprehensive leader training programs across all of the recreational disciplines that we participate in. Our goal is to create quality leaders of many recreational disciplines to better serve the diverse interests of our members and the greater outdoor community.

After a successful community input session where participants discussed the fundamental values of Mazama programs, we continue to the next step in our Building the Future of Mazama Programs Strategic Project.

The Mazamas invites you to a community input session on Nov. 2 in the Mazama Mountaineering Center’s Holman Auditorium from 7–9 p.m. We will be discussing the scope of current and future Mazama programs and the types of leaders and educators that will be needed to inspire the next generation of Mazamas. We will also be discussing the Mazamas role in the creation of national standards for volunteer leadership and the effect these standards will have on the development of new leaders and educators in our organization.

If you are interested in the future success and sustainability of outdoor education and activities at the Mazamas, please consider attending.

Please RSVP at tinyurl.com/MazInputSession2

4 MAZAMAS

SKI MOUNTAINEERING Class Dates: Jan. 7–March 4, 2019 Registration Opens: Oct. 15 at 9 a.m.

Registration Closes: Dec. 7 Badges Earned: Course: Ski Mountaineering, Skills: Ski Mountaineering

The Mazama Ski Mountaineering Program is designed to teach you the skills, attitude, and awareness necessary to safely enjoy the many backcountry ski opportunities that exist in the Cascades and elsewhere. Ski mountaineering in the Northwest can span the spectrum from multi-day traverses to skiing off the summits of local volcanoes to just basking in the sunshine on the South Side of Hood in July. Each tour has its special joys and dangers. Our goal is to help you make a safe and confident transition from skiing groomed slopes at resorts to touring the off-piste environment among mountains. The focus of this course is on the skills necessary to ascend/descend nontechnical intermediate level ski mountaineering climbs in the Northwest (e.g. terrain such as Mount St. Helens, Snow Dome on Mt. Hood, and South and Middle Sister). The format of the class includes a series of lectures and field sessions that cover gear, travel techniques on backcountry skis (and snowboards), self-arrest techniques, emergency shelters, avalanche awareness (analysis, safe travel, and rescue), route finding, navigation, general mountaineering techniques, weather, and trip planning.

Get details: mazamas.org/skimountaineering

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Publication Title: Mazama. Publication No: USPS No. 334-780. Issue Frequency: Monthly. No. of Isues Published Annually: 12. Annual Subscription Price: $15 Known office of publication and general business office: 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Owner and Publisher: Mazamas, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

Editor: Sarah Bradham, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders: None. The purpose, function and non-profit status of this organization and the exempt status for Federal income tax purposes have not changed during the preceding 12 months. Circulation for the preceding 12 months: Total no. of copies

3600

Paid/requested outside-county subscriptions

1602

(1746)

Paid in-county subscriptions

1527

(1497)

Total paid and/or requested circulation

3129

(3243)

Other classes mailed through the USPS

15

(12)

400

(455)

Free distribution outside the mail Total free distribution Total distribution Copies not distributed Total Percent paid and/or requested

(3800)

415

(455)

3544

(3712)

46

(88)

3600

(3800)

88%

(85%)

First figure denotes yearly average: second figure in parenthesis denotes actual copies of a single issue published in October 2018.

NOVEMBER 2018 5

First Crack: Ice Climbing in Lillooet, BC

by Wendy Marshall

W

hile my family was neither wealthy nor outdoorsy, I’ve always had a passion for being in nature.

As a result, I easily landed in Geology studies at Western Washington University, yet “extreme” sports like snowboarding still felt as distant as Mars despite my PacNW upbringing. That changed the day I spotted a weekend trip posting on our Outdoor Club board. Lillooet Ice Climbing, it said. As a figure skater who hoped to work in Antarctic science, I already had a deep love for ice— but ice climbing? A little research, and I had the facts. This wasn’t just any ice-stomping, but straight-up frozen waterfalls. One of those sports. Here was my chance, to enter a world of edgy skills, glossy magazines and pure alpine adventure. I knew I had to go. After paying the fee and tooling up on boots, axes, crampons and clothes at my very first used-gear sale—my head bursting with brands from Charlet-Moser to Grivel, and terms like monopoint crampons—I was ready.

On February 12th, eight of us plus Ryan and Dave, the young but competent leaders, piled into the vans and set off. A hub of interior British Columbia, Lillooet is a tiny place whose economy still utilizes extractive industries like logging and mining. It also offers some of the best vertical ice terrain in the area, plenty of it easily accessible by road for short excursions. First, of course, you have to get there. We wound deep into the Canadian Rockies on the Trans-Canada Highway, passing towns with names like Hope and 6 MAZAMAS

Spuzzum, and by the time we reached Hell’s Gate—a thin, sketchy red bridge and air tram swaying precariously above the little river that thundered through rocky Fraser Canyon—we felt alike nervous, excited and surreal. Our target destination: Marble Canyon, barely an hour north of Lillooet.

Marble Canyon shelters clusters of frozen waterfalls, which we could see from the road, clinging to rock faces between ridges of snow-dusted conifers. We craned to look, our necks cricking. Then suddenly

we arrived. Grabbing our mix of owned and rented gear, we hiked a short way across the frozen Crown Lake, up a slope to a popular family of icefalls, crowned by the famous 3-pitch route named Icy BC. This group offers routes rated WI3-6, from fat chunky well-bonded ice columns, to thin glaze mixed with bare rock and hanging sheets. Saving Icy BC for later, we started from the left, at the broad Deeping Wall. Ice climbing with a group, I learned, is great fun and camaraderie, but you also stand around waiting. A lot. Nervously, if

you’re a rookie. I picked up what tips I could, befriending Allison and Jen and the rest of our team. We watched Ryan and Dave climb to set up topropes, inserting ice screws as they went. The first volunteers followed, and cries of “Ice!” “Ice!” (or in the case of Andrew, a Brit, “Oice!”) rang out whenever somebody knocked loose any sharp ice chips or platesized “death cookies” with axe or crampon, at which we ducked our helmets.

But nothing compares to that virgin attempt at a new skill. Everyone was so encouraging, and I tried to feel reassured by the tug of the toprope at my waist, when I’d never even climbed with a toprope on rock. Soon, my forearms were burning.

Tiny ice chips stung my face and plinked off my helmet, as the wicked-looking recurved technical axe I’d proudly purchased ricocheted maddeningly off the rippled blue ice time and again. Now I couldn’t get a foothold—what was wrong with me? My crampon had popped off my foot! Time to descend. I felt a bit discouraged, weak and clumsy, not to mention sweaty, my pumped arms like jelly. Back to waiting and watching in the cold. But it was hard to feel sad for long in such a beautiful place. I got a sweet photo of Allison and Jen hugging for warmth, grins and pink cheeks and nose-ring barely peeking out of cozy winter woolens. Then I wandered over to look at a stunning pillar of ice that emerged magically from beneath an overhang, creating a glowing cave of translucent blue like a temple of ice. Crawling in, I felt awed and exhilarated.

That night, we camped in tents, in the coldest night I’d ever faced. One by one, we drifted from the cheerful campfire, filled by a tasty dinner of sloppy bean stew, and to bed. The thermometer dropped to 10 degrees F. Morning came, and the last thing I wanted was to poke more than my nose from my sleeping bag, but I knew I’d be warmer moving. I couldn’t feel my foot, so I shoved it hard into my boot, heard a crack, and thought, “Oh well—I might’ve broke a toe, but I can’t tell!” (I hadn’t.)

Over the weekend, I learned valuable techniques from our leaders, which we practiced between climbs. A bent-kneed “monkey hang” from extended arms will save

them from fatigue. Coupled with the hang, wrist straps offer added support when your grip becomes tired on the ice axe. Using the weight of your lower leg pendulum-style, kick straight in, drop your heel and try not to wiggle your foot. Aim for the pockets of dense-looking blue ice between the lightercolored prominent bulges, which are often highly aerated and/or fractured. But the greatest feeling came from a properlyexecuted swing of the axe. After being shown how to line up my shoulder, elbow and wrist to transmit the force of my swing with maximum efficiency, the serrated pick sank home with a solid, satisfying ssthunk. Chills flew up my spine. “Yeahhh,” Ryan growled, to cheers from my teammates.

On the third day, we hiked a bit further to a beautiful route called Cherry Ice, where victory found me at last. My axes landed solidly more often than not, and my hands and feet found their rhythm: Thunk-thunk, followed by the chip-chip-chip of crampon steps. My teammates grew tiny below. Too stoked to stop, I rounded the waterfall’s sloping crest until the rope topped out, then looked out at the amazing view. I felt fantastic, wishing I could climb again immediately. But as I handed off the rope at the bottom, a tiny ice chip whizzed by and cut my ungloved hand, as if to say: “Don’t get too cocky, now!” I felt the respect, but my joy was undiminished. The others shared my sentiments. “We chopped this to s---,” one guy said happily. Then all too soon, we were leaving, me sitting next to Dave as the van

pulled away, and by accident we broke into the same song at the same time: “On the road again. . . .”

A few years later, this same trip was again offered. Then I would climb Icy BC itself, stay at the Mile 0 Hotel, and try the notorious Figure-4 move just for fun. Since moving to Portland, Oregon, I’ve discovered the Columbia Gorge offers some exciting water-ice possibilities, while the Mazama Center’s new ice climbing wall provides a place to work on techniques. But I will always treasure my first ice climbing trip, most of all for what it represents: The courage of trying and the joy of being.

Wendy Marshall found the Mazamas in 2014. She loves herbs, nature, and mountain sports, and supports the latter through a budding career in writing, aided by a steady supply of Fig Newtons and dark chocolate during rough stretches.

Photos, from far left: Ice Climbing. Photo: Gunter Marx. Icy BC. Photo: University of Washington.

Ice gear. Photo: Explore BC.

NOVEMBER 2018 7

Presented by GRIVEL

| Hosted by the MAZAMAS

Portland Alpine Fest

NOV. 12–18

It’s almost time! We are just a few short weeks from the start of the Portland Alpine Fest. The week will be filled with inspiring speaker events, clinics & seminars, and the biggest event of them all—The Summit: An Evening of Inspiration. The Portland Alpine Fest is a community-centric event for everyone who loves to play in the mountains. Hear from local and nationally known athletes who will share their highs and lows in the mountains with you throughout the week. Along the way you’ll have the opportunity to win great gear in our raffles, sample tasty beverages, and mingle with other folks who share your passion.

FEATURED

THE SUMMIT

EVENT!

Friday, Nov. 16, 6:30–11 p.m. at the Melody Center THE SUMMIT is the night where our mountain community comes together to celebrate everything we love about the outdoors. Don your finest non-climbing gear, and head on out to the newly remodeled Melody Center, for an evening with your friends for fun, food, and tales of inspiration and adventure.

Quinn Brett

Our night will feature stories of courage in the face of adversity, first ascents, pushing boundaries, and more as we hear from our two keynote speakers of the evening. Hear from Quinn Brett & Libby Sauter on what it means to be inspired, and Alan Rousseau on what the life of a mountain guide is really like.

There will be a bucketed raffle, where you get to choose the items you hope to take home with you! Raffle items will include hard goods such as ice axes, trekking poles, stoves, along with soft goods such as jackets, boots, packs, and base layers. We’ll also bring back the popular Golden Ticket raffle that was launched last year, that features BIG prizes and a limited number of entries.

Libby Sauter

Get tickets now at:

portlandalpinefest.org Alan Rousseau 8 MAZAMAS

Clinics & Seminars This is a sample of the clinics & seminars available. Go to portlandalpinefest.org for a full list.

SEMINAR—NAVIGATION: PUTTING MODERN TOOLS TO WORK FOR YOU NOV. 15, 1–4 P.M. AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER This seminar will focus on the use of google earth, gaia gps navigation app, KML/KMZ files, GPX tracks, and taking that info and turning it into an accurate time plan.

Instructor: Alan Rousseau

ALAN ROUSSEAU

SEMINAR—ROCK CLIMBING TRIP PLANNING NOV. 15, 1–4 P.M. AT THE MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER (MMC) Topics covered will include: logistics for camping and permits, choosing a climbing area and objective, understanding culture QUINN BRETT and avoiding crowds, gear selection, climbing year round, and emergency planning. Come prepared with note-taking materials and any questions you may have!

Instructor: Quinn Brett WORKSHOP—GETTING OUT & GIVING BACK: LET’S TALK ABOUT ADVOCACY NOV. 16, 1–3 P.M. AT THE KEEN GARAGE At a time when public lands are under intense threat, how can you go beyond enjoying your time outdoors to advocating for the land? Leaders: Quinn Brett & Libby Sauter SEMINAR—CHAMONIX TRIP PLANNING NOV. 17, 8–11 A.M. AT THE MMC Alan will share his tips of planning for an overseas climbing trip—what to pack, how to pack it, what to leave at home—as well as some suggestions for objectives in the Chamonix area that would be perfect for varying skill levels. Instructor: Alan Rousseau

LIBBY SAUTER

ALAN ROUSSEAU

WORKSHOP—CLIMBING TOWARDS INCLUSIVITY NOV. 18, 1–3:30 P.M. AT THE MMC Take the first step and come for an exploration into what it means to be an ally in our community. “Climbing Towards Inclusivity” tours topics like race, gender equality, LGBTQ identity, ability, and bias.

Instructor: Elyse Rylander

ELYSE RYLANDER

CLINIC—MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY ON ROCK NOV. 15, 1–4 P.M. AT THE SOURCE CLIMBING CENTER Do you ever wish you knew how to move across the wall with more grace and less raw power? Or reduce the pump factor in MARCUS GARCIA your climbing? This clinic will break down the micro movements that are needed to help you increase your efficiency. You will learn the techniques to make corrections fast, to help you gain success on your next project. Instructor: Marcus Garcia CLINIC—INTRO TO ICE/MIXED CLIMBING TWO OPTIONS: NOV. 15 (WOMEN) OR NOV. 16, 8–11 A.M. AT THE MMC Are you completely new to climbing? Or are you a rock or gym climber but have never swung an ice axe? Have you ice climbed DAWN GLANC before but would like to know the secrets to efficient movement? Are you intrigued by moving up rock using tools instead of your hands? Then this basics clinic is for you! You will learn everything you need to know about the fundamentals of ice and mixed climbing. You will have access to a variety of tool types and learn techniques to use them.

Instructor: Dawn Glanc CLINIC—INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED ICE & MIXED CLIMBING NOV. 15, 1–4 P.M. AT THE MMC Learn advanced techniques to improve the fun factor/efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide you through the steeper stuff.

Additionally, learn techniques to move through the terrain when the ice gets thin or simply disappears. Mastering the skills in this clinic can potentially open doors to DAWN GLANC new, longer, and more technical venues in vertical world. Instructor: Dawn Glanc CLINIC—LEAD CLIMBING TWO OPTIONS: NOV. 17 OR NOV 18, 8–11 A.M. AT THE SOURCE CLIMBING CENTER Are you regularly climbing in the gym and interested in taking your climbing to the next level? Tired of being confined to the top rope routes? Then this might be the clinic for you! In this three hour clinic we’ll discuss lead equipment, clipping techniques, lead climbing techniques, lead belaying, and catching leader falls. Come prepared, this will be full session! Instructor: John Barkhausen

PAF Schedule Continues NOVEMBER 2018 9

Evening events

ADVENTURE & INSPIRATION: REI MOVIE NIGHT AT THE LUCKY LAB Monday, Nov. 12, 6:30–9 p.m. at the Lucky Lab NW Join us as we share stories of adventure and inspiration that are changing the narrative of what it means to push limits, challenge assumptions, and break barriers.

AN EVENING WITH NWAC Tuesday, Nov. 13, 7–9:30 p.m. at the Mountain Shop An evening with the forecasters, snow observers, and educators of the Northwest Avalanche Center. The first half of the evening will be a lecture focusing on how to make the most of the NWAC avalanche forecast. The second half will be a casual question-and-answer session.

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED Tuesday, Nov. 13, 7–9:30 p.m. at Base Camp Brewing Company

Get tickets now at:

portlandalpinefest.org

Join ultra runner Yassine Diboun of Wy’east Wolfpack, as he talks about his last year in running, where he tackled three of the hardest 100-milers in less than 12 months: UTMB, HURT 100, and Badwater 135.

10 MAZAMAS

TO INFINITY & BEYOND: GETTING LOOPY ON MT. RAINIER Wednesday, Nov. 14, 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC Scott Bennett will offer up an evening of photos and stories from some of his adventures on remote classics like Mt. Goode or Mt. Olympus, leading up to the Infinity Loop on Mt. Rainier.

FILM NIGHT: MICHIGAN ICE Thursday, Nov. 15, 7–9:30 p.m. at Patagonia

The Michigan Ice Film pulls back the curtain on one of the world’s most overlooked climbing destinations: the frozen cliffs of Lake Superior on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

PORTLAND ICE COMP SATURDAY, NOV. 17, 4–8 P.M. AT PLANET GRANITE

Now in its 13th year the Portland Ice Comp is bigger and better than ever! Participants will have the opportunity to tackle new challenges while vying for great prizes as they put their skills to the test against the local climbing community. Come on out to watch all the action unfold. There will be drinks, a raffle with great outdoor gear, and social time with friends.

D E G R E E S

D O W N

H E A T

U P

9 0 / 1 0 H y p e r D RY G o o s e D ow n (800 fill power)

L A Y E R

U P

We i g h t : 1 4.1 oz / 4 0 0 g

P A C K

I T

U P

Folds into chest pocket for easy storage

T E R R E X

C L I M A H E A T

D O W N

H O O D E D

J A C K E T

A D I D A S O U T D O O R . C O M

NOVEMBER 2018 11

GLACIER PHENOLOGY Elizabeth Kimberly is a graduate student at Western Washington University. This year she received a Mazama Research Grant for her project titled “Testing the viability of using structure-from-motion photogrammetric surveys to Track glacier mass balance and meltwater discharge on the Easton Glacier, Mt. Baker, Wash.” Below is a reflection on her recent field work.

Article & photos by Elizabeth Kimberly

I

n the past, I’ve associated the concept of phenology with flowers and trees undergoing seasonal transformations from buds to blooms. However, conducting research on the Easton Glacier the past several months for my Masters thesis has shown me the remarkably striking ways in which mountainscapes, too, change with the seasons. These are the abiotic parts of nature that we typically think of only being subject to change over centuries and millennia, not days and months ... so much for a “glacial pace.” Here, I write about the phenology of the Easton Glacier through the spring and summer of 2018.

EARLY MAY It is early May and the birds are chirping dawn choruses and the winter rain has diminished. The disparity between the snowy alpine and the verdant lowlands is increasingly stark. Stubborn patches of snow still make the trailhead’s rugged forest road impassable and when we arrive, the snowmobile crew has finagled a winch system to pull their burly trucks and sled trailers across. We giggle at their innovation as we attach skins to our skis, complete a most unusual gear check (duct tape? steam drill? PVC pipes? avalanche gear? snacks?), and finish our coffee.

A team of 8, all members of the Northwest Cruisers Snowmobile Club, has united to help us transport our heavy, bulky research gear up the Easton Glacier and nearly to the summit of Mount Baker. In less than 20 minutes our crew has zoomed from 3,000 feet to 8,500, across cobble-filled creeks and dormant underbrush and unconsolidated glacial till and deep crevasses, all obscured by

12 MAZAMAS

meters of snow. The undulations of the topography are softened by the snow-laden landscape and the terminus of the glacier is indistinguishable so early in the season.

Niki and I follow a pre-set GPS track to find our first site. Our goal for the day is to use a steam drill (not to be mistaken for a sasquatch-sized espresso-maker) to drill five stakes into the snow and ice, which we’ll revisit through the summer and fall to measure changes in the surface elevation.

We probe each survey site to ensure we don’t inadvertently install a stake into a crevasse, and to approximate the depth of the snowpack. When we’re finished, we enjoy the payoff: a ski through thousands of feet of soft spring corn to sites 4, 3, 2, and 1, where we repeat the installation process.

MID JUNE By mid-June, the snow bridge across the Easton Glacier’s outlet creek has melted and the low albedo of the cobbles has revealed interwoven stream channels and vegetation. The glacier is no longer

accessible via snowmobile and so we approach the ice with an awkward tango of skiing, skinning, hiking, and bushwhacking. We’re wearing shorts and we are disoriented because the glacier’s foreground has morphed into a mosaic of snow, dirt patches, and moving water.

“Didn’t we ski right over that waterfall just a month ago?”

We arrive at the first stake and measure 127 centimeters worth of snow-melt since its installation a month ago. There’s a spider perched on the stake, totally unaware of the climatic changes unraveling around it. We continue up the center of the glacier, moving more delicately and swiftly in certain, seemingly thin places.

Sometimes we straddle deep crevasses and peer down into the frozen abysses.

Like stratigraphic columns that reveal a chronology of shorelines, the cracks expose layers of snow, firn, and ice from seasons passed.

It’s 3 pm and we’ve made it to stake 3.

The snow appears to have gone through a melt-freeze cycle recently and the corn

tempts my skiing instincts. On a whim, we decide to pause our research efforts and jaunt up toward the summit of Mount Baker. After all, it might be our last chance to ski volcano corduroy. Around 6:30 pm, we strip our skins and fly down the glacier, at the mercy of gravity and with the current of a disappearing frozen river.

LATE JULY

It’s late July and now we’re wearing hiking boots. There’s a heat-wave in the valley, the trailhead is packed with dayhikers, and we’ve replaced ski poles with crampons and avalanche gear with glacier ropes. The goals of our visit are varied, but first on our list is to install a second stream gauge and measure the creek’s velocity.

What’s the diurnal variation (i.e. How much does the streamflow change as the day warms? Can we attribute its velocity changes to snow-melt and/or glacialmelt?)?

After an afternoon of drilling holes into rocks (to install our “level-logger”, a device that continuously measures the stream’s height, which we use to make a curve that

relates stream stage to velocity throughout the summer) and standing in glacial streams, we find ourselves sprawled in a wildflower-filled alpine meadow, eating macaroni and cheese and talking about unscientific things. Does the full moon pull on the glacier the way it pulls on the tides?

On our second day, we return to the highest stake for the first time since May. We’re attached to the same rope, five meters apart and moving simultaneously across the ice, navigating mazes of crevasse fields and ice-fall. Sometimes we rearrange our rope’s trajectory to ensure we remain perpendicular to the visible crevasse patterns. We scan the glacier for stake 5 and Katie spots it at the mouth of a widening crack. Oops.

We arrive at stake 3 and the snow has melted a total of 355 centimeters in two months. The untouched field of white snow from a month prior is now striped with fissures. The crevasses concentrate in places where the glacier is moving most quickly, typically along convexities in the topography. Stake 1 is guarded by a cliff of

unconsolidated sediment, the remnants of the glacier’s path, and it’s inaccessible from above. We contemplate what climbing Mount Baker will be like in 50 years, and the recently revealed uneven, unstable rocky terrain at the ice’s edges offer compelling evidence.

As we leave the glacier and return to our campsite, I baffle at the delicate heather buds waltzing in the wind. This sea of wildflowers is a product of millennia of eruptions and glaciations and burrowing marmots. I can reasonably predict what this landscape will look like when we return at the end of September, and again in February. But I can only speculate how long it will take for the summit of this glaciated volcano (currently a bright white beacon in the sky and only accessible with crampons and ice axes), to become a cirque with an alpine lake, shaded by subalpine firs and fit for hiking boots and sunset picnics.

NOVEMBER 2018 13

PAFlete: Libby Sauter

I

t’s sometimes hard to imagine our climbing heroes outside of their vertical worlds. If not spending their time crushing it on a big wall, setting speed records, or putting up first ascents, their lives must purely be spent training for those big projects, right? While for some that may be true, for Libby Sauter, there is much more to her than just a talented athlete. Although she is a highly-accomplished rock climber, Libby has devoted a significant part of her time to her job as a pediatric cardiac ICU nurse. If that isn’t enough, her job has seen her work in places like Libya, Ukraine, and Iraq. So what does it mean to be so motivated on two very different fronts? Let’s find out…

You are best-known in the climbing world for holding a speed record on the Nose of El Capitan. Talk about what holding that record means to you.

The Nose speed record was the ultimate avenue to test my ability to reach for lofty goals. The routes meaning has changed significantly for me over the years from triumph to rather bittersweet in the wake of the accidents that have transpired on El Cap around speed climbing.

Being a world-class rock climber can be all consuming at times and, as we all know, life is about balance.

How do you find the balance in your life that allows you to succeed in and outside of rock climbing?

I was lucky enough to not fully become obsessed with rock climbing until after I completed my university degree in nursing. Having a flexible, well-paying career has giving me the ability to bounce between my two greatest passions.

Is there a particular moment amongst your experiences as a traveling nurse that sticks with you more than others?

Pediatric cardiac nursing is a very intense field of health care so there are lots of moments that stand out. One time I watched a little girl’s heart start beating again after we had cracked open her chest in the ICU. Those scenarios don’t often end so happily in the developing world. I was in Benghazi when ISIS was defeated and watching the final moments of that battle from the hospital rooftop will stay

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with me forever. As well, all the countless tears I shared with my nursing best friend Lisa after particularly tough days are pivotal moments in my life.

Which personal qualities are transferrable between being a successful climber and a successful nurse?

Basically, any trait that involves working harder than you could ever imagine, going past extreme physical and emotional exhaustion. These traits are helpful in both fields.

Perhaps more interestingly, which personal qualities would you rely on during one activity but never call upon during the other?

Nursing and climbing have so much in common to the point that I can’t really think of a trait that is important in one, but not in the other: fear control, check. Responsibility for someone else’s life, check. Calm under pressure, check. Tolerance of other people’s bodily fluids, check.

Do you usually try to combine a climbing trip with a work trip (i.e. go and climb in the country you’re working in once your contract is finished) or is there a bit of a break between the two?

PAFlete: Yassine Diboun I haven’t been nursing abroad this year but, previously, I would often try and combine trips. Work was already paying for my transcontinental ticket so I could easily just book little flights around Europe or Asia in between. The Middle East airport hub is Istanbul so I’ve spent lots of time in transit there. I made a really rad climber friend there through the couchsurfing.org website so anytime I had a long layover, I had a partner to get out with. He just opened Istanbul’s first full-fledged climbing gym, DuvarX. Check it out if you ever find yourself in that part of the world!

As climbers, we’re often fortunate to be in incredible places that the majority of people will never will be able experience. Do we, as outdoor enthusiasts, have a responsibility to those places that extends beyond “Leave no Trace”?

I think we as humans have a responsibility to take care of the planet on which we live, regardless of whether or not we are climbers. But since we have such an intimate relationship with many remote places we have the ability to be extra conscious about leaving no trace, to addressing our trespasses on tribal land, to dealing with our industry’s hypocrisies regarding green living.

What are your future projects (whether climbing related or not)?

My projects of late have more revolved around mountain running and academics than climbing. Losing a really close friend to climbing just a month after Quinn Brett became paralyzed on the Nose last year has really taken the wind out of my climbing sails. I started a grad school program in Global Health that I am very excited about this fall.

Here is an easy one. What is the one food that you crave the most after a few long days in the mountains?

Salty, crunchy! That usually means cheddar popcorn and chips and salsa/ hummus/guac! YUM!

W

ith Moroccan-based heritage, it’s no wonder Yassine Diboun’s dream was to play in the World Cup. As time progressed and he found himself trying sport after sport, his teenage years focused largely on basketball. Having competed overseas and even in Division III college ball in Pennsylvania, Yassine moved westward where the allure of the Rocky Mountains and, eventually, the Pacific Northwest, lead him to transition to endurance sports. Since 2007, Diboun has truly hit his stride, competing in numerous ultramarathons and trail running races.

You’ve tried many sports over your lifetime. Do you think you’ve settled on ultra-running as “the one”?

It has appeared to be the one, for now anyway! I’ve settled on ultra-running for the past dozen or so years, but as we know, nothing is permanent. I will do it as long as my body will allow me, and for as long as I still have the passion for it. If I ever lose the love for it, I will obviously follow my heart to what is next....just like when I moved from team sports to endurance sports earlier in my life. I think what has kept me so firmly rooted in the sport of ultra-running is its simplicity and multi-faceted “health”. As a health professional, and business owner in the fitness industry I am always conveying to people that health is not just your physical health. It is a combination of physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual. Ultrarunning, especially in the mountains and forests, fills me up in all of those areas, and living in the Portland, Oregon area allows such amazing access to such places.

continued on next page NOVEMBER 2018 15

Yassine, continue from previous page It is said that ultra-running is as much physical training as mental training. Do you think they’re equally important?

The mental part of ultra-running is one of the most important aspects. It is very important and I work on it a lot for myself and for the athletes that I coach through Wy’east Wolfpack. The physical training is obviously important and when you do lots of physical training and get strong and fit this builds confidence which in turn gives you a mental edge, but the physical aspect gets all the spotlight. I feel that the mental, emotional, and spiritual side of ultrarunning is underrated if you will. Ultrarunning is one of the most irrational things you can do. There is a mechanism in the human brain called the central governor.

It is a self-preservation mechanism that tells us to stop, rest, walk, sleep, etc. when we push the limits of endurance. The thing about the central governor is that it is always very conservative, so as to leave a reserve of energy for survival. Endurance athletes and ultra-runners have found that they can override these signals and push the limits of human potential. The more you push through, the easier it gets and you recognize certain signals. Sometimes it’s not the most healthy option and I have pulled out of races in my career because my mind was pushing through but my body (especially my internal organs) was not having it on that particular day, and I didn’t want to damage myself. The race is not that important! I feel like that is why/

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how I have been able to race at a high level for over a decade. I am very much in tune with my body and mind because of my lifestyle today. In ultra-running you can’t get too cerebral about the task at hand. It becomes too irrational and overwhelming.

Some tricks that I use are mantras, visualization, and imagery before and during competition, and breaking the race or adventure down into bite-sized chunks, otherwise it gets too overwhelming. A little story that we love (and is part of the reason we named our company Wy’east Wolfpack) is the story of the two wolves. It’s a Native American (Cherokee) legend that works well for both life and for endurance sports and it goes like this: One evening an old Cherokee told his grandson about a battle that goes on inside people.

He said, “My son, the battle is between two wolves inside us all.

One is Evil—It is anger, envy, jealousy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, self-pity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority, and ego.

The other is Good—It is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion and faith.

The grandson thought about it for a minute and then asked his grandfather: ‘Which wolf wins?’

The old Cherokee simply replied, ‘The one you feed.’”

In other sports, the gear seems to evolve nonstop (skiing technology, climbing technology, camping/backpacking equipment, etc) and you can easily spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to feel properly equipped and to progress in the sport. In your ultrarunning career, have you seen big leaps in running technology? Do you think better technology is important to the sport? Do you think that will change in the future?

There have been great advances in GPS watches, headlamps, and cameras (drones) etc. but I still think at the core of ultrarunning is its simplicity and practicing a sacred transcendence. One foot in front of the other moving through wild spaces and tapping into something bigger. I think the technology muddles it a bit and I like to take it all with a grain of salt. I say that because of social media (Instagram, YouTube, FB, etc.) changing the sport a bit.

People are going to these amazing places on foot and are focusing a lot on trying to get the perfect shot for their Instagram and missing out on so much of the authentic experience. I am guilty of this sometimes too. We go to such breathtaking places that we want to share the inspiration with others. Also, if you have a big following on social media channels you are more likely to be sponsored by companies so it creates another dynamic which has shown some changes in the sport and growing pains if you will.

In climbing, there are many athletes that push for “firsts.” First ascents, first free ascents, first descents (in skiing/ski mountaineering). Is there as much of an obsession in the ultra-running community for these “firsts”?

Yes, I think it is human nature to want to be the first or the fastest, etc. There is a trend in ultra-running called FKT’s which stands for Fastest Known Times. There is a website and protocol for people to follow to set a fastest known time on a particular route, or create your own.

It’s pretty cool and I have participated in this type of selforganized adventure running. For example, I set the FKT for the Pacific Crest Trail (supported) through the state of Oregon a few years back. I think it’s a fun way to set your own parameters on a project, state your intentions, and go for it without the structure of a race or sanctioned event.

It just gives you the freedom without all of the hoopla! I invite you to check out the FKT website.

What has been your toughest race to date?

I think the toughest race I’ve attempted and did not finish, unfortunately, was Badwater 135. This is 135 miles on roads through Death Valley in July. The temps topped out at 127 degrees Fahrenheit. I made it 100 miles and my body was cooked and I was having some internal issues with kidney dysfunction and dehydration/heat exhaustion, etc. I pulled the plug.

Probably the most difficult race that I have finished would be the HURT 100 in Hawaii (I finished 3 times) and it is extremely difficult w/ lots of technical terrain such as slippery roots and rocks and tons of climbing through the mountains in Oahu, Hawaii. Again you deal with heat and humidity of the jungle and it’s in January, so it’s difficult for us PNW’ers to get ready for. The other is UTMB which stands for Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc in France. You start in Chamonix France and run around the biggest mountain in the Alps (Mont Blanc) and pass through three countries (France, Italy, Switzerland) and climb over 30,000 cumulative feet. It was very difficult and took me 28 hours to finish in 89th place out of over 3,000 runners.

Have you participated in running events outside of the United States?

Ultra Trail Torres del Paine in Chile—I was leading a 110 kilometer race through one of the most beautiful places on earth in my opinion, and just before sunrise saw a puma.

We checked each other out and he jumped over a log and ran away. Pretty exhilarating!

What are your ultra-running goals in the next few years? What do you hope to accomplish?

There are a few races I would like to complete such as Hardrock 100 in Colorado. There are so many selforganized adventures that I would like to do such as the Washington PCT, Tahoe Rim Trail, etc. so I will likely continue to break my season up with self-organized adventures and local and international races as much as I can!

PAFlete: Elyse Rylander

So I heard you have a knack for perfectly-timed message GIFs. Do you have a favorite?

I pride myself on not using the same ones every time—I’ve gone so far as to download a couple of different apps in addition to the gif keyboard to shake it up. I like to keep people on their toes.

On a more serious note, what does it mean to you to be a queer woman in the outdoor industry?

It’s super complex and multi-faceted. Some of the less fun things are often being the only one in the organization or team with that identity, having to speak up for yourself all the time, and dealing with a lot of microaggressions. But on the flip side, I think women, queer women, and other marginalized folks can be the best guides for kiddos or those experiencing the outdoors for the first time. I think these identities can make you really good at understanding what it’s like to be the “only” (or maybe one of a few), and what it’s like to not fit in all the time. It’s also given me the opportunity to meet some really amazing allies and to cultivate friendships I didn’t necessarily think I would be able to. It’s been such a privilege. But it also means having to be tough and to deal with having to be the smartest, the fastest, the best all the time. And having to figure out how to give yourself a break and practice some good self care. Those last two I’m still very much learning how to do.

continued on next page NOVEMBER 2018 17

Elyse, continue from previous page Tell us about your organization OUT There Adventures. What do you hope to accomplish?

On an organizational level, I think we’ve already achieved some of our goals. In the last 5-7 years that I’ve been doing this work with OTA so much has changed in the world. I think the work I’m doing right now will be culturally irrelevant in the industry in the next 3-5 years, which is pretty darn astounding. I think any social service non-profit is ultimately striving to work themselves out of a job. Rarely do we see that actually come to fruition, but I think we might actually play a pretty key role in helping to shift the overall paradigm in the industry. On an individual level for our participants, my goal has always been to provide them with an opportunity to be around other people like themselves and to be outside. That rings most profoundly true for me in our youth programs. We do an affirmation circle at the end of all our youth trips, and it always takes hours because they just gush about themselves.

It’s so amazing to see and hear them, and to see the change they’ve experienced.

Why do you think the outdoors in particular are a great place to bring people from minority groups together?

Queer youth in particular are overrepresented in statistics of homelessness, mental health problems, social stresses, depression, and anxiety.

We’re continuing to add to the body of research that spending time in nature helps to lessen all of those things (maybe besides homelessness). I think nature provides an amazing opportunity to try and assuage some of those negative experiences. Also, there’s the idea that queer folks are really disruptive to culture and society because they don’t follow prescriptive linear paths—you’re born and “it’s a girl!” which means you wear certain clothes and you act a certain way.

In the natural world, I think it’s amazing to be able to see how much queerness and disruption is reflected all around us because things are not linear. It’s basically impossible to travel in a straight line—you have to step over something, or the trail is going to twist, or you’re getting pushed and pulled by the tides. So even in the way you move your physical body you’re able to see that disruption and be celebrated. I think 18 MAZAMAS

it’s even better than socially constructed urban spaces for showing queer folks that they’re totally natural, more natural than these rigid boxes we put ourselves in. We’ve been told for so long that we’re the unnatural ones, nature is a really empowering place for queer folks to be.

What are a few things those of us who have privilege could do to make the community and the places we love more inclusive?

I think the first step is just recognizing that you have privilege. We struggle as a culture to have a conversation around bias and privilege because those who have a lot of it don’t want to admit it. It’s really hard for folks to own the fact that the system is rigged and that some of us have been given advantages we got simply because of the color of our skin or the gender we were born with. It’s just sheer luck. If you can’t recognize that, the best you can hope for is achieving a place of tolerance, and that is not an ideal at all. From there, it’s making sure you are doing what you can to educate yourself and aren’t putting the emotional labor and expectation of education on marginalized communities. You don’t want to ask your gay friend all the questions about being gay—that person has to deal with it all the time, and unless they’re down for it you shouldn’t just expect

people in these marginalized positions to do the educating for you. We can educate ourselves. Just like with anything, when you’re practicing a new skill you have to put yourself out there and mess it up a bunch. You’ve gotta go back to the drawing board if it didn’t go well, just like when you’re learning how to climb or mountain bike or snowboard. There’s tons of failing involved, and that’s part of the process.

Reflect and do it better next time. I think those are probably my three top things: check your privileges, educate yourself as much as you can, and put yourself out there, fail, and learn.

Is there anything I missed that you’re dying to share?

Well, OUT There Adventures is a nonprofit so we always appreciate support in the form of donations. And the LGBTQ Outdoor Summit will already have passed by the time this gets published, but we’ll be doing it again next year and would love for queer folks and allies of all genders to join!

Else is leading two seminars during PAF on Sunday, Nov. 18 at the MMC—Climbing Towards Inclusivity and How to Climb 3 Grades Harder with Diversity & Inclusion.

Get full details at portlandalpinefest.org/ seminars

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22 MAZAMAS

Free Solo Comes to Portland

O

n Saturday, Oct 13 the Mazamas hosted a member only showing of Free Solo. The film follows world-renowned climber Alex Honnold as he becomes the first person to ever free solo climb Yosemite’s 3,000 ft. El Capitan. The film by Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin is an engaging study of Honnold’s passion and personality.

Seventy-four Mazamas and guests viewed the film at Cinema 21 in Northwest Portland. Following the film, Alex Honnold and associate producer Mikey Schaefer took part in a question and answer session moderated

by Justin Rotherham. In response to the question of whether his film would inspire other budding free soloists, Mikey responded, and Alex agreed, that free soloing takes a special type of climber willing and able to climb without fear, noting that most climbers are not up to the challenge. Wrapping up the Q&A, an audience member asked Alex if he had any other big solo climbs in mind, he responded no, but who knows what the future could hold.

Clockwise from top: Mazama member Megan Banker with Alex Honnold. Mazama member Josephine Blanke and Ruby Kofron with Alex Honnold. Photo: Charles Blanke. After the film there was a Q&A with Alex Honnold, and filmmaker Mikey Schaefer led by Justin Rotherham, Mazamas Education & Activities Program Manager. Photo: Megan Banker.

NOVEMBER 2018 23

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted. Want to be featured on the AYM Instagram account? Tag @ aympdx in your photos of Mazama adventures!

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶ AYM Committee Meeting is on Monday, Nov. 26, 6:30 p.m., at the MMC ▶▶ Pub Night: Date TBD, check mazamas.org for updates! ▶▶ Climb Night: Wednesday, Nov. 7, 6:30 p.m. at Planet Granite

Get to know our newest hike leader, Rachel Smith: ▶▶ Hometown? North Plains, Oregon ▶▶ Favorite trips that you’ve led with AYM? We had a great time on my provisional hike, even though all we could see was clouds at the top of Lookout Mountain. We had a truly Oregon day with spurts of rain and wind and others with glorious sunshine. But everyone had such a good attitude and the other Punchbowl Falls and apple picking made up for the cold start. ▶▶ What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials?

Extra contacts. I am blind without them and you only need a ripped one when out in the wilderness once to learn not to do it again. It is definitely my eleventh essential on everything. ▶▶ Favorite Leader Treat? Someone brought espresso macaroons as a summit treat on one my climbs this summer and they tasted like the best thing I had ever had. But I’ll keep that one nostalgic and go with truffle salt almonds or any fruit but bananas. ▶▶ When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? A Blue Angels pilot. Obviously I thought they were amazing and impressive and I wanted to be one. But once my vision cleared up that goal, I turned my sights on being a doctor. I wanted to help people live healthy, happy and productive lives, and fortunately for me what I actually do in public health does allow me to do that each day. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know about you? I can’t wink and have admiration (and some jealousy) of those who can - so most people. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if.... They want to have a nice time enjoying the nature around them. Being outside is so centering for me that I love to be able to appreciate the beauty and majesty around me. My style varies depending the day and group, but I like to lead activities where everyone is enjoying themselves and we can try to get everyone what they want - pictures, views, exercise, etc.

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You can now find and sign up for all AYM activities on our website at mazamas.org/ AYM. Create your account (get all the details at mazamas.org/ gettingstarted), click on activity, and sign up!

It’s quick and easy, and you’ll be able to track all of your Mazama activities in one place.

Save the Date Winter Weekend at

Mazama Lodge: Our flagship event. Save the date, Feb. 8–10, 2019.

Registration open late December.

Hike Leader First AidC ▶▶ Thursday, Nov. 8, 6 p.m. ▶▶ Monday, Nov. 19, 6 p.m. ▶▶ Monday, Dec. 3, 6 p.m.

Class open to current leaders who need to renew their certification or prospective leaders who have taken hike leader training. Sign up online, contact aym@mazamas.org with questions.

MAZAMA LIBRARY

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping, and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library NEW RELEASES AND ADDITIONS ▶▶ Vantage Point: 50 Years of the Best Climbing Stories Ever Told, by Climbing Magazine, 2018. A collection of the most inspiring, thought-provoking, and humorous stories featured in Climbing over the past five decades—an anthology that will move you to grab your chalk bag, rope, and harness. Call # 796.52 S4 ▶▶ Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery, by John Kettle, 2018. Getting better at rock climbing doesn’t have to be about strength, endurance, flexibility or hours spent on repetitive training. It doesn’t need to be a balancing act between losing fitness and getting injured overtraining. Climbing is fundamentally a skill-based sport, and this guide will change the way you look at moving on rock.

Call # 796.52 K51 ▶▶ Gym Climbing 2E: Improve Technique, Movement, and Performance, 2nd Edition, by Matt Burbach, 2014. Climbing has become a mainstream sport with more participants than skiing or snowboarding and, among the different types of climbing, gym climbing is the most popular. Where gyms were once a training ground for rock and alpine climbers, many participants now regularly climb indoors with no plans beyond tackling the ever-changing routes of their neighborhood hangout. Call # 796.52 B89 ▶▶ Climb Portland, Mt Hood & the Gorge, by Rob Holzman, 2018. Climb Portland, Mt Hood, and the Columbia Gorge is a new all-color guide to over 20 crags in and around Portland, Hood River, Mount Hood and Beacon Rock. Several local climbers authored and sourced new beta, high-quality photos, protection suggestions, first ascent information, historical photos and much more. This is a comprehensive guidebook to the Portland, Mt Hood, and Columbia River Gorge. The guidebook contains full route descriptions, quality ratings, rappel beta, top rope, and anchor beta, access information and everything you need as a Portland climber. Call # 917.95 H72

CLASSICS OF MOUNTAINEERING Camp Six: The 1933 Everest Expedition, by Frank Smythe, 1956.

One of the greatest Everest accounts ever written. It is the story of the 1933 Everest Expedition, in which Smythe, climbing alone after his partner Eric Shipton had turned back ill, reached a point perhaps higher than any man had done before - and some twenty years before the eventual first ascent. Rope-less, oxygen free and in terrible snow conditions, his climb was one of the greatest endeavours in the history of Everest.

DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Sagarmatha National Park in Nepal has the highest average elevation of any national park in the world. It is home to Mount Everest. ▶▶ Teiichi Igarashi was 99 years, 302 days old when he reached the summit of Mount Fuji in 1986. ▶▶ The ancient Greek philosopher Empedocles made the first recorded ascent of Mount Etna in Italy. After reaching the summit he committed suicide by jumping into the crater. ▶▶ Harney Peak, at 7,242 ft, is the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains.

BOOKS FOR MOUNTAINEERING: ▶▶ Continental Divide: A history of American Mountaineering, Maurice Isserman, call # 971.17 Is7 ▶▶ Because it’s there: a celebration of mountaineering from 200 BC. to today, Alan Weber, call #796.52 W38 ▶▶ History of mountain climbing, Roger Frison-Roche, call # 796.52.

F91 ▶▶ Leading out: women climbers reaching for the top, Rachel Da Silva, call # 796.53 D26

THE MAZAMA LIBRARY NEEDS SUPPORT—FROM YOU! Do you or someone you know have vintage mountaineering gear that is looking for a home? Don’t give it to Goodwill, donate it to the Mazama Library and Historical Collections! We are always on the lookout for wood handle ice axes, early climbing gear, vintage catalogs, turn of the century photographs, early mountaineering books, and more. Please contact library manager Mathew Brock at mathew@mazamas.org to discuss potential donations. We apologize, but we cannot accept any Mazama Annuals published after 1925 or National Geographic magazines.

Please consider a financial contribution to support the Mazama Library, a nationally recognized collection and one of the few remaining mountaineering libraries in the United States. Your financial donation will help support our full-time librarian, acquire rare mountaineering books and historic photographs, and maintain our valuable archives and historic objects collections.

Thank you for your support.

Are you ready to support the Mazama Library? Go to mazamas.org/donate and select Library & Historical Collections.

NOVEMBER 2018 25

MAZAMA OUTINGS You can now apply for Mazama Outings on our new website.

When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check.

HIKING IN VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, HAWAII: FEB. 19–27, 2019 Now that VNP has reopened, come join us for a repeat of last year’s very successful outing to the Big Island of Hawaii where we’ll spend a week exploring Volcanoes National Park, one of the world’s most fascinating biological landscapes in the most geographically isolated group of islands on earth. We’ll be staying eight nights at the Kilauea Military Camp in two, three-bedroom cabins featuring all the comforts of home, located right in the National Park.

Our itinerary will include “B” level day hikes, an overnight backpack to the coast, an evening of star gazing at 9,200 feet on Maunakea volcano, and a day off to visit a Botanical Garden, explore Hilo town, tour Akaka Falls, or just rest.

Outing costs of $1,220 to $768, for a group of 8 minimum–12 maximum participants. Each participant is responsible for meals, travel to and from the Big Island, and shared vehicle rental on the Big Island. A trip overview meeting will be held in early February.

Deposit of $250 will be charged upon acceptance. You will be sent an invoice for the remainder of the Outing cost. Full payment will be due by Jan 31, 2019.

Leaders: Jay Feldman & Leigh Schwarz. Get full details and apply online at: mazamas.org/activity/instance/3469/

HIKING OAHU: MARCH 1–9, 2019 Hike for a week on Oahu’s fabulous Ko’olau Summit Trail (KST), its side ridges and valleys. The high point of the ruggedly beautiful 37 mile KST is 3,100 ft. Expect “B” level hikes with some scrambling, steep drop-offs, and sections of wet and muddy trails bringing hikers to flora-rich summits and amazing ocean vistas.

We’ll stay in a two story, six bedroom, five bath home high above Hawaii Kai, close to restaurants and grocery stores. Nearby are Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, Koko Crater, and Makapu’u Lighthouse and Trail. We’ll meet local hiking clubs to “talk story” and gain insights to local island hiking. We will take a midweek break to relax or enjoy some of Honolulu’s many offerings, including famous historic sites such as Bishop Museum, National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, or the Arizona Memorial.

Outing costs of $1,704 to $1,230 for a group of 8 minimum –12 maximum participants. Each participant is responsible for meals, travel to and from Oahu and shared vehicle rental on Oahu.

(Parking at our Oahu home is limited to 3 vehicles, so sharing will be necessary). A trip overview meeting will be held in early February. Deposit of $250 will be charged upon acceptance. You will be sent an invoice for the remainder of the Outing cost. Full payment will be due by Jan 31, 2019.

Leaders: Jay Feldman & Leigh Schwarz. Get full details and apply online at: mazamas.org/activity/instance/3470/ 26 MAZAMAS

SPANISH PYRENEES GR11: JULY 24–AUG. 7, 2019 The Pyrenees are an amazing mountain system that acts as the natural border between Spain and France. GR11 (Grand Route or Gran Recorrido) is a trail of 522 miles that takes you from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean sea across these beautiful mountains. Over 12 days, we will hike around 90 miles of the first part of the GR11, starting in Puerto de Urkiaga and finishing in Canfranc. We will be sleeping in small villages, hostels, campground bungalows, and mountain refuges. We will enjoy the different landscapes that the Pyrenees offer from the lowest altitudes to the highest ones, including tons of amazing views (such as the Alanos Zuriza) and lots of mountain passes.

Outing costs of $1,082 to $1,315 for a group of 10 or 8. Costs include lodging, outing fees, and two group meals. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in May or June. Contact leader Juanfran Carceles (jfcarmar@gmail.com) or assistant leader Reuel Kurzet (rkurzet@comcast.net) for more information.

Signup deadline March 1, 2019. Deposit of $200 due March 1, 2019. Full payment due by April 1, 2019. Get full detail, apply, and pay the deposit here: https://mazamas.org/activity/instance/3260/ detail/

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS

Nov 7

The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged.

View the entire season’s schedule at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms

Ever Wild: A Lifetime on Mt. Adams: Nov. 7 For anyone who is intrigued with the Pacific Northwest’s majestic peaks, Ever Wild: A Lifetime on Mount Adams gives a first-time, close-up look at Mt. Adams through the lens and adventures of author and photographer Darryl Lloyd. Accompanied by his expert narration, Lloyd will present some of the 180 color and black-and-white photos, maps, and illustrations from his new book. Through a personal journey, spanning seven decades, Darryl Lloyd cemented his place in the sweeping story of Washington state’s Mount Adams.

As the foremost authority on this northern Cascades massif, a sometimes overlooked, but never forgotten, hulk of a mountain, Lloyd will share his alpine adventures, along with doses of human history, geography, geology, botany, and a vital call for protection. Growing up on a ranch at the base of Mount Adams, Lloyd devoted his life to learning the mountain, observing the ebb and flow of its glaciers, photographing the play of light, wandering lush meadows and old-growth forests, hiking boulder-strewn slopes and scaling icefalls ... and showing the way for those who’ve followed.

Nov 14

Portland Alpine Fest To Infinity & Beyond: Getting Loopy on Mt. Rainier: Nov. 14 This is a ticketed event—get tickets at portlandalpinefest.org; $7.

All climbers dreams of free, unencumbered movement through the mountains.

Professional alpinist Scott Bennett has spent the last decade climbing all over world, always seeking to feel confident in the most remote and rugged places.

In the past few years, Scott has also embraced distance running, first simply for training, but increasingly in combination with long technical routes. A combination of fitness, years of mountain experience, and creative strategy allow Scott to take on bigger and more committing objectives in a fast, free, and fun style.

Join Scott for an evening of photos and stories from some of these adventures. He’ll cover remote classics like Mt. Goode or Mt. Olympus in a day, the car-to-car speed records on the North Ridge of Mt Stuart and West Ridge of Forbidden, and ambitious ridge traverses like the Palisades and Evolution in the California Sierra. All these were training and preparation for his grueling, but enlightening, Infinity Loop on Mt Rainier. Over 2.5 days Scott climbed over (twice) and ran all the way around the iconic volcano, learning how big it really is, and just how far his legs could go.

The evening will include a raffle with great gear as well as drinks & snacks.

Nov 28

Backpacking the National Parks: Nov. 28 Dave Bouchard, a lifelong hiker and backpacker, has completed a backpacking trip in every one of our nation’s National Parks which allow backcountry use, some thirty seven in all. This effort, over several years, is described in a presentation which includes many slides of scenery and interesting sights seen along the way. He also shares many anecdotes about experiences on the trail, some “Do’s and Don’ts” when considering these kind of hikes, and his observations regarding the most and least rewarding Parks for backpackers to consider.

Typically it runs about an hour, depending on questions from the group. It has been given at schools, to retirement groups, and several times as REI Evening Programs.

There is no program the day before Thanksgiving, Nov. 21.

NOVEMBER 2018 27

e m o c Wel

NEW MAZAMAS

Our new members join a 124-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program. We welcome you to our ranks!

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY. 28 MAZAMAS

NEW MEMBERS: 38

R. Scott Albert—Gannett Peak Jules Allison—Eagle Cap (Oregon) Jessica Anderly—South Sister David Andrews—Mt. Thielsen Laura Axon—Mt. Hood Mark Ballaris—South Sister Lori Butler—Old Snowy Ann Marie Caplan—Mt. Adams Christopher Cleaver—Mt. Rainier Andrew Conway—Grand Teton Joseph Davis—Mt. Adams Karen Davitt—Mt. Hood Jim Davitt—Mt. Hood Jessica Dickson—Mt. Rainier Duane Dingman—Mt. St Helens Rael Dornfest—South Sister Donald Dressen—Mt. Baker Michael Fasulo—South Sister Meghan Goldman—Mt. Hood

Bryce Guske—Mt. Adams Derek Hamilton—Mt. Whitney Brittany Han—Middle Sister Karen Joyce—Mt. St Helens Abbie Laugtug—South Sister Carl Lucas—South Sister Doug Mathias—South Sister Lisa L McNee—Mt. St Helens Sam Miller—North Sister Ronald Mitchell—Mt. Washington (OR) Jim O’Brien—Mt. St Helens Kayla Ondracek—South Sister John Pendleton —South Sister Joshua Sindel—Mt. Shasta Angel C Stech—Mt. Rainier Nicholas Stech—Gannett Peak James Tarzwell—Mt. Hood Manuela Villa—Mt. Adams Matthew Wolpert—South Sister

REINSTATEMENTS: 9

Mark T Gross (2004), Sylvia de Lacy (1992), Peter Marth (2012), Michael Ondeck (2001), Amy J. Satak (2014), Lucas Andrew Tatone (2009), Patrick Thorpe (2014), Shannon M Wilkinson (2008), & John M Wilson (2010)

DECEASED: 2

Lewis MacArthur (1965) & Paul Toenjes (1954)

Total Membership as of Sept. 30, 2018—3,569; 2017—3,664

WE PLAN. YOU PLAY.

We love these places. *

*Love is a verb; without action, it is merely a word.

Green Trails Maps™ is committed to supporting trail maintenance and development.

We contribute and work with trail advocacy organizations throughout the west to ensure you and your next generations have more and better access to these treasures.

Green Trails ‘Boots on the Ground’ Mapping Crews walk the talk and mapeach step to ensure users have the most accurate and current trail information available.

www.facebook.com/GreenTrailsMaps

www.GreenTrailsMaps.com

206.546.MAPS (6277) NOVEMBER 2018 29

2018 RESEARCH GRANTS

SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS Sept. 21, North Sister, South RidgeHayden Glacier. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst.

Toby Tyler Creelan . Scott Templeton, Sept. 22, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/ Standard Route. Leader: Walter Keutel, Asst.

Nate Zeiler . Jesse Collins, John Gist, Matthew Perkins, Grant Schoepper Sept. 23, Mt. Washington, North Ridge.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst. Scott Auble .

Marsha Fick Lacey Jones, Julie Kentosh, Chris Reigeluth, Thomas Williams Sept. 27, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge.

Leader: Sรกndor Lau, Asst. Richard Bronder . Thomas Eriksen, Darren Ferris, Cecelia Henderson, Aimee Loomis, Ian McCluskey, Rene Nazelrod Sept. 29, Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake.

Leader: Joe Eberhardt, Asst. Suresh Singh .

Sabrina Hickerson, Savyasaachi Keshava Murthy, Jeremy McLain, Joseph York

Sept. 29, Observation Rock, Standard Ice Route. Leader: Eric Brainich, Asst. Anna Buckley . Juanfran Carceles, Chaitanya Sathe, Greg Simons, Mark Stave Sept. 29, Mt. Adams, North Ridge.

Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst. Andrea Ogston . George Callaway IV, Joshua Grimmer, Jan Roethle, Matthew Rollins Oct. 6, Tamanos Mountain, Owyhigh Trail. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Steven Wagoner . Lacey Breton, Cameron Harkness, Sojo Hendrix, Deborah James, Andrew Taylor, Kim Taylor, Jeff Tolentino Oct. 7, Castle, Pinnacle & Plummer Peaks, Standard Route. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Steven Wagoner . Howard Buck, Kathrin Dragich, Cameron Harkness, Sumedh Naik, Angela Schaefer, Andrew Taylor, Kim Taylor

Oct. 7, Acker Rock, Peregrine Traverse.

Leader: Tracie Weitzman, Asst. Jesse Applegate . Kate Scanlan, Brad Unruh Oct. 7, Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall. Leader: Matthew Sundling, Asst. Andy Phan . Will Bailey, Megan Banker Oct. 12, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Andy Nuttbrock, Asst. Michael Levis . Anna Dearman, James Robert Dearman, Joe Kaufman, Alex Lockard Oct. 13, Beacon Rock Southeast Corner.

Leader: Vaqas Malik, Asst. Pushkar Dixit .

Jeremiah Biddle, Tamara Ross Errata: It was incorrectly reported in the July 2018 Bulletin that the following climb reached the summit. However, the climb team had to turn around before the summit.

May 27, Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst. Thomas Dodson. Amit Abraham, Carmel Adrian, Patrick Aitchison, Greg Hughes, Leslie Shotola, Lawrence Welsh

Stories Start Here

www.ProPhotoSupply.com| |503-241-1112 503-241-1112 www.ProPhotoSupply.com 1112 97209 1112NW NW19th 19thAvenue, Avenue,Portland, Portland,Oregon Oregon 97209 30 MAZAMAS

INTRODUCING MAZAMA CONSERVATION PARTNER BARK, PROTECTOR OF MT. HOOD NATIONAL FOREST by the Conservation Committee

B

ark’s origin story begins in 1993, when a musician and a lawyer walked into a forest, Mt. Hood National Forest, and came upon vast clearcuts and old growth logging which no one seemed to know about. The two friends decided to make sure that such activities in this public forest would never go unknown again. They therefore took it upon themselves to walk each and every proposed timber sale in the Mt. Hood National Forest, finding and documenting the truth on the ground, and making that truth known, in their mission to protect this forest they loved.

Thus John “Lenny” Rancher and Greg Dyson began the process of groundtruthing in Mt. Hood National Forest. They trained more people to do this work with them, and their ongoing work led to the official birth of Bark in 1999, with groundtruthing continuing as a central tenet.

Bark continues to train volunteers year round to groundtruth proposed timber sales, and has an annual “Base Camp” providing two weeks of training and camaraderie for old and new groundtruthers. Lawyers have also remained central to Bark’s work; Bark will litigate if needed to protect the forest. Music also continues as part of Bark’s heart and soul, as can be attested by anyone who has been to Base Camp.

Staff Attorney Brenna Bell’s work at Bark: Tell us a little about the work of Bark, and why it is important.

We are living in a time when the truth is often obscured and the Forest Service uses terms like “restoration forestry” to justify logging old growth. Being able to know what the truth is directly, through groundtruthing, is important for each proposed timber sale, and it helps to change bigger policies. Government watchdogs are always important, and are especially important when there is such industry pressure to keep harvesting timber. It’s important for Bark to make sure the Top: Michael Krochta, Forest Watch Coordinator, explaining the significance of the bigger trees in a timber sale to novice groundtruthers. NEST tree climbing workshop at Bark Base Camp. Photos: Candace Bonner.

32 MAZAMAS

government follows the rules that exist, and to work to make those rules better.

What do you see as Bark’s greatest accomplishment, and what do you hope to accomplish in the future?

Bark’s greatest accomplishment is the education of hundreds of people in forest ecology, giving them confidence in their abilities in the forest, and confidence in their ability to apply their forest knowledge to forest policies and politics.

Brenna said she is also proud of some of Bark’s specific accomplishments, such as its role in stopping the Nestlé water bottling plant, its role in stopping the Palomar Pipeline from crossing forestland, farmland, and vineyards, and for its role in

preventing more than 20,000 acres of Mt Hood National Forest from being logged.

Why do you choose to do the work you do?

I didn’t have a choice—the forest chose me! I grew up loving the Mt. BakerSnoqualmie National Forest, and when the 1996 salvage logging rider passed, I knew I

had to fight for the forest. I Joined my first campaign in 1997 to stop the Eagle Creek timber sale in Mt. Hood National Forest. Sometimes I ask myself why I have not devoted my life to working to right economic and social injustice, but the longer I do this work, the more I believe that the same systems that lead to forest injustice lead to economic and social injustice.

Outdoor recreation and conservation sometimes are seen as complementary, but as more people get outdoors, this can also create conflict. What opportunities do you think there are for the two to best support shared goals?

I view them as complementary, but too much of either is not good for the forests. Sometimes conservationists want to put “invisible fences” around large swaths of land, but humans and natural ecosystems co-evolved. As long as we engage with gratitude and reciprocity, and not with exploitation, as long as it is mindful engagement, the two are complementary.

Are you optimistic for the future of our planet and its natural places? What gives you hope?

Geologic time gives me hope. Humans are just a tiny spec on the timeline of our planet. Resources are finite, so industrial humanity cannot continue on. I don’t have hope for human life to continue indefinitely (no species does), but I do have hope for the planet.

That said, humans, are a highly adaptive species, and perhaps some human life will continue if we have not made the earth too toxic to support it. Perhaps some would not consider that optimistic!

What action can an individual, as a Mazama, or simply as a citizen of Oregon and of this planet, do to support the goals of conservation of its beauty and natural places?

Each of us needs to get to know our own backyard, whether literally our back-yard, or the places we most love to recreate. We need to know our places, pay attention to their needs, and not just know them as a backdrop to our recreation. Then we will be armed with the knowledge we need to protect them.

Bark Base Camp You can experience Bark in action at Base Camp. The Bark community is welcoming and supportive, diverse in age, gender, cultural and educational background, united in love for the forest.

There were 150 volunteers during the 2-week summer camp this year, both new and experienced ground truthers, managing to groundtruth most of the 4,000 acres of the North Clackamas Timber Sale, documenting several sensitive and protected species, as well as documenting unmapped old growth and riparian areas. Bark will use this information to respond to the upcoming Environmental Assessment of the sale. The Base Camp, supported by the Mazamas, fed its crew delicious and healthy food, put on interesting talks on relevant conservation topics in the evenings, and provided groundtruthing training during the day. There were several other training sessions offered, including workshops with Bark partner NEST in tree climbing to document the presence of protected species, and with Cascadia Wild in wildlife tracking. There was even a late afternoon session on collecting and preparing medicinal plants, and a day of collecting native seeds for pollinator gardens. Talk about having fun while doing good!

WHAT CAN A MAZAMA DO? Every Mazama has experienced the challenge of our glaciated peaks, and the peace and beauty of our forests and natural areas. Each month the Conservation Committee will include a brief note—look for the “What Can a Mazama Do?” logo—to let you know ways you can give back, and help to preserve the natural areas in which you climb, hike, backpack, and camp. When we feature a conservation organization in an article, we will feature ways you can work with and support that organization. When we do not have an article on a specific organization, we will let you know of events and programs available in the current time frame. We hope every Mazama will choose a way to participate in conservation that matches your available time and interests. You can always make a dollar donation to a featured organization, but we hope you will want to apply your intelligence and your trained and able body in more interesting and enjoyable ways. We must protect and conserve our beautiful places if we want to continue to enjoy them!

HOW A MAZAMA CAN SUPPORT BARK: ▶▶ Do you love tromping the woods off trail? Learn to groundtruth, hone your knowledge of native species of trees and plants and of wildlife signs, learn to measure tree girth, ground slope and aspect, and more (bark-out.org/content/groundtruthing). BARK offers frequent training, and always has ongoing projects in groundtruthing. ▶▶ Are you a joyful rock climber? Learn to climb trees with Bark partner NEST, to document the presence of protected species such as the red tree vole during groundtruthing. Learn to place your first rope with a bow and arrow! Somewhat different climbing skills and equipment are needed, but a piece of cake for you as a rock climber to learn. nestcascadia. (wordpress.com/nest-faq/) ▶▶ Volunteer with Bark partner Cascadia Wild to monitor their Mt. Hood wildlife cameras, in all weather, all seasons, in boots or snowshoes, in true Mazama fashion. It is always a thrill to be the first person to see what wild creatures have been sharing the trail. (cascadiawild.org) There are many other ways to support Bark listed on their website: bark-out.org/content/get-involved. Dive in! It is not only worthwhile, but fun!

Next month: Friends of Mt. Hood NOVEMBER 2018 33

Saying Goodbye LEWIS MCARTHUR

1917–2018

by Craig Chisholm, Mazama Lifetime Member

T

he Oregonian had a well-written article, worth reading, describing the accomplishments of this remarkable, good, honest and honorable man: historian, compiler of Oregon Geographic Names, mountaineer, and more. I wish to add for our particular audience a description of what I saw of his life as a mountaineer.

Lewis McArthur and my father, Colin Chisholm, a fellow member and a past president of the Mazamas, were the best of friends. From my earliest days, I can recall my father speaking of “an outing with Lew this weekend if the weather permits.” Those two mountaineers led myself and others on wonderful adventures into the hills, climbing, hiking, and camping. These were always of some effort, sometimes wet and cold character builders, and ever lessons on the skills of mountaineering and of conversation. It was during that “second golden age of mountaineering,” when the first ascents were being made of the last great peaks when permits and passes were unknown, and the height of conservation was to burn your trash and bury your cans.

I can recall many stories told by Lew and his friends of the “greatest generation” about their times in the war, particularly of Lew’s days as an army intelligence officer in the wind-swept Aleutians, awaiting a landing from the Japanese grand fleet. History, politics, and poetry, of which Lew had a great store from memory, as well as manners, climates, fire-building, and governments were among the topics. All the while there was the teaching of the ways of the mountains: routes, considerations of equipment--mostly WWII surplus, the weather, technique, and the conditions of the mountains. Sometimes, after safely down to the timber after an unsuccessful attempt but sulking in our tents, he would philosophize that “the mountain will still be there.” These were happy times, filled with the best of memories.

When last we spoke Lew was delighted

34 MAZAMAS

to recall those memories in the mountains. He smiled as they crossed his mind.

He didn’t have a favorite peak he said, each climb was remarkable in its own way.

He also gave the advice that if you climb without haste, plan well, and take care to every step you can pretty much go anywhere. In all our Heraclitus adventures he would follow “They told me, Heraclitus, they told me you Edmund Whymper’s sage were dead. words, from the first golden age of mountaineering: They brought me bitter news to hear and “Climb if you will, but bitter tears to shed. remember that courage I wept as I remember’d how often you and I and strength are nought without prudence, and that a Had tired the sun with talking and sent him momentary negligence may down the sky.” destroy the happiness of a –William Cory lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what intellect and was a reliable, steady may be the end.” climber.

One climb, which I most indelibly The times we had together in the recall, toward the end of Lew’s climbing mountains were one of the greatest of career, was a glorious climb of Hungabee, life’s gifts. But all created things change. above Lake Louise. In perfect weather, We may grow old, even too old, but still he led us across the mountain’s face remain the pleasant memories of the on narrow ledges that dropped off to days in the hills. eternity. Approaching the summit, we Lewis L. McArthur joined the Mazamas both mistook the route and ended up at in 1964 and was a member until 1987. In a strikingly steep pitch. To my immense 1991 wrote an article titled “Silcox Hut: relief, Lew thought better of it, we then and now” for the 1991 Mazama retraced our steps and successfully tried Annual. Many will remember him as a more cunning and prudent approach. the featured speaker at the Mazamas In all our years, though sometimes Centennial Celebration in 1994. Besides cold and damp, we never had a serious the Mazamas, Lewis was also a member accident nor a cross word. Lew was a of the Alpine Club of Canada and the good companion in our close community American Alpine Club. of mountaineers. He had a remarkable

CLASSICS For Mazamas with 25 years or more of membership or those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@ comcast.net, Executive Council liaison Steve Couche at 503-998-0185 or stephencouche@mazamas.org, or classics@mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee. Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater, and help or backup for same. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas.org if you are interested.

LEADING EVENTS IN NOVEMBER Send details to classics@mazamas.org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point is Gateway; our west side location is the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events, you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

FRIDAY, DEC. 7 AT THE MMC: CLASSICS HOLIDAY LUNCHEON Seating available at 11:30 a.m. with buffet lunch at noon. We will have our annual luncheon to celebrate the milestone for members achieving 25 or 50 years of membership, hand out pins to those in attendance, and celebrate the season. Lunch will be provided by Charles and we suggest a $5 donation at the door.

Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Operations Director, will be our speaker. She will be talking about the new Mazama website and database. Limit of 80 people. You can sign up online at mazamas.org/Classics, or call the office at 503-227-2345.

CREATING/UPDATING YOUR WEB PROFILE With the Mazama website now fully launched, all are reminded to go to the website (www.mazamas. org) and update your profile. You need to establish a new account if you’ve not used the updated site before.

Click on login then in the upper right hand corner click on sign up. You can get the details on creating your account at mazamas.org/gettingstarted.

MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings

by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager Please welcome our new caretake team, Will Stevenson and Jenn Brummett. Will and his family have a long history with Mazama Lodge.

His family was introduced to the Mazamas by Mazama climb leader, Eugene Lewins more than 20 years ago. Will grew up hanging out at Mazama Lodge as a kid in the 90s, and as a young adult participated in the Round the Mountain event. Over the past few years Will has helped out at Mazama Lodge while completing his bachelor’s degree in geology at University of Puget Sound. Jenn is a world traveler with many talents.

She graduated from Western Oregon with a degree in Spanish and social science and has worked with youth programs over the past couple of years. Jenn first became acquainted with Mazama Lodge during a school visit from Western Oregon. Fun fact, Jenn represented the great town of Prineville, Ore. were she competed in the Miss Oregon Pagent. This is Jenn’s second rotation working with us as a caretaker but her first time during the winter months. Both Jenn and Will are looking forward to helping Mazama Members and guests enjoy a great winter at the lodge with lots of snow!

It’s been a few years since we have had the Mazama Hill groomed on a regular basis. Some of you will remember having the lodge Tucker Snowcat that groomed Mazama Hill in the 1960s and early 70s. Fast forward a few years back Skibowl would groom our hill once a week to the delight of sledders and skiers. Many thanks to Timberline who recently purchased the Summit Ski area and will be taking over grooming duties at our Mazama Hill. This will also include the Westleg Road too, so skiing down from Timberline (or up) will become much easier. Grooming will occur once a week or more based on the need. This will also allow skiers and snowboarders to ski down the Summit Hill to catch the Timberline Shuttle. The lodge driveway will be groomed too, this will be the easiest access to the Summit Ski Area.

The lodge will be back open after our ten week closure from the renovation this month. We still have a few more items to finish up before we will open starting Thanksgiving Day, Nov. 22. A great time to visit Mazama Lodge is during the Winter Break, Dec. 13–Jan. 2.

THANKSGIVING DINNER MENU APPETIZERS Smoke Salmon Platter Pickle and Olive Tray Hot Apple Cider DINNER Focaccia Bread Mashed & Sweet Potatoes Will’s Gluten Free Cornbread Stuffing Cranberry Sauce Jen’s Kale Casserole Mixed Green Salad Turkey and Gravy DESSERT Apple Pie & Pumpkin Pie with Vanilla Whip Cream NOVEMBER 2018 35

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule.

WEBSITE UPDATES Visit mazamas.org/hiking for the most up to date hike schedule.

WESTSIDE STREET RAMBLES: TUESDAYS & THURSDAYS Multiple teams hike at different paces with various leaders. Bring a headlamp.

4–8 miles, 500–1,500 feet.

Meet at REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. Ramble information available at mazamas.org/streetrambles MORE HIKING Adventurous Young Mazamas and other Mazamas lead hikes as well.

See the full list at: mazamas. org/AYM

THE HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS IN THE HIKE LISTING ON HOW TO SIGN UP. IF THERE ARE NO DIRECTIONS, SIMPLY MEET AT THE MEETING SPOT AT THE TIME LISTED. HK A1.5 Nov 03 (Sat) Salmon River Trail (Upper) (W) Susan Koch 971-678-3446. Wilderness—Limited 12.

Lovely woodsy hike along the river with fall colors and the smell of autumn. Should be a great view on top too.

No sign up just show up. 7.2 mi., 950 Ft., Drive 82, TH, Gateway 8:30 a.m. (MH,WO) HK C2 Nov 03 (Sat) Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) (W) Dyanne Foster 503 267-8937. Wilderness— Limited 12. Let?s hike along Herman Creek enjoying waterfalls and a moderate trail to Cedar Swamp where the last mile is burn feee! Beautiful old growth trees along the trail make this such an enjoyable hike. Watch for weather - traction devices may be needed. Contact leader with questions. 14.6 mi., 2640 Ft., Drive 78, TH, Gateway 7:30 a.m. (WF,WO) HK A2 Nov 05 (Mon) Hoyt Arboretum Marty Hanson Mvhanson@yahoo.com. Monday, Nov. 5, 2018—Hoyt Arboretum walk. Leave from the visitor center at 9:30 am for a 4 mile stroll. We will walk parts of the Wildwood, Redwood, White Pine, Oak, and other trails to stretch our legs and see some autumn colors. Easy to moderate pace. Approx. 800 feet gain/loss. No charge for Classic Mazamas, others $2. Marty Hanson - mvhanson@yahoo. com, 503-227-0974. 4 mi., 800 feet Ft., Drive N/A, Hoyt Visitor Center 9:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 Nov 10 (Sat) Dog River Hike Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503-665-6778 . Located south of Hood River, this pleasant out-and-back hike moves through an ever-changing forest to great views of Mt Hood’s (hopefully, drier) east side. No dogs. Vehicles will need to display a NW Forest or Golden Age Pass. 6.6 mi., 1,500 Ft., Drive 140, TH, Lewis & Clark - near toilets 9 a.m.

HK B1.5 Nov 18 (Sun) Siouxon Creek (to Wildcat Falls) Brett Nair 503-847-9550. The Gifford Pinchot National Forests Siouxon Roadless Area is part of the 1902 Yacolt Burn and the lush growth here is really a 100-year forest although much of it is younger than that because fires continued to erupt in the area until 1930 or so, when the Civilian Conservation Corps came in and built trails and firebreaks. This loop takes you to some of the main waterfalls of the Siouxon Basin. 10.2 mi., 1000 Ft., Drive 70, Gateway 7 a.m. MU (WF) HK A1.5 Nov 22 (Thu) Latourell Thanksgiving Day Loop Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503665-6778 . Hopefully, the weather will be dry enough for some serious leaf-kicking as we pass two pretty waterfalls on this wee gorge loop. Trekking poles might come in handy. Return to meeting place before noon. 2.3 mi., 700 Ft., Drive 30, Lewis & Clark - near toilets 9 a.m.

HK A2 Nov 23 (Fri) Round Lake from Lacamas Creek Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Work off Thanksgiving with this terrific Fall hike, waterfalls should really be roaring and much of the trail is all-weather. Dress for rain but there are places we can duck out of it if need be. We will use the Lacamas Creek trailhead for some elevation gain. 5 mi., 400 Ft., Drive 30, Gateway 9 a.m. (WF)MU HK A2 Nov 24 (Sat) Moulton Falls Jim Selby 828-5085094. Moulton Falls and Lucia Falls will be brimming with water and we should see an eagle or two. Bonus will be to see the Christmas Train as we eat lunch. Allweather trail but wear waterproof gear anyway. 5 mi., 200 Ft., Drive 60, Gateway 9 a.m. (WF)MU

HK B2 Nov 17 (Sat) Kings Mountain Ken Park kjpark96@gmail.com. Steep hike in coastal range. Be prepared for rain. Hiking poles a must. 5 mi., 2500 Ft., Drive 66, Target/185th 7 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ feet elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace

36 MAZAMAS

information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

MU: Hike is posted on Meetup.

WF: Qualifies for Waterfall Award.

AR: Qualifies for Awesome Ridges Award.

GH: Qualifies for Gorge High Points Award.

WO: Qualifies for Wild Ones Award.

MH: Qualifies for Mt. Hood Award.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for nonmembers. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84

Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol

and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

THE HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS.

READY TO SIGNUP ONLINE? Head on over to mazamas.org/hiking to see our new website and a new way of viewing our upcoming hikes.

Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running.

The ONLY trick is for those of you who are already Mazama members, you want to make sure to create your account using the email address we already have on file for you. You should have receiveid several emails from the Mazamas already at that email address encouraging you to seup your account. If you are still unsure what email address that is, just drop us a line at help@mazamas.org and we will look it up for you.

Once you start signing up for hikes online, you’ll be able to track your hike history directly on our website, along with your history of participation in other Mazama activities.

Security note: Your saved credit card is not hosted on a Mazama server. We use a third party processor to manage all payments. This ensures proper encryption and protection of your payment information.

HK B2 Nov. 3 Clackamas River Trail to Pup Creek Falls David L Nelson, 503-627-4810, dkbmnelson@gmail.com. This trail parallels the Clackamas river through mossy forests, passing several waterfalls, and whitewater viewpoints until we reach Pup Creek Falls. We will have lunch at the Pup Creek Falls and then retrace our steps to the cars. The trail head is 15 miles south of Estacada. 8.5 mi., 1,300 ft., Drive: 80, Clackamas Town Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 7:30 a.m. (Classics) HK A2 Nov. 4 Indian Point Hike Kate Sinnitt Evans, 503-635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com.

We will hike up Nick Eaton Ridge, take the Cross Over Trail, and then go down to Indian Point for lunch and wonderful Gorge views.

We will then descend the Gorton Creek Trail.

This area was burned in the Eagle Creek fire and looks very different now. Don’t forget that Daylight Savings ends today. 7.6 miles, 2,800 feet, Drive 78, Gateway 8 a.m HK B2 Nov. 7 University Falls - Coast Range Rex L Breunsbach, 971-832-2556, breunsba@ teleport.com. Forested loop hike to a hidden waterfall. 8.4 mi., 2,450 ft., Drive: 50, Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m.

HK B2 Nov. 11 Salmon Butte Bruce Giordano, 503-477-6013, brucegiord32@gmail.com. The Salmon Butte Trail #791 is one of the more popular trails in the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. No wildflowers this time of year but some good elevation gain which is rather gradual on a soft well maintained trail. Some great views of mountains from the summit if we have clear conditions. We will meet at Gateway Transit Center. 11.6 mi., 3,100 ft., Drive: 90, Gateway Park & Ride at 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Nov. 12 Cascade Head and Hart’s Cove Bill Stein, 503-830-0817, billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. Visit some of the most dramatic viewpoints on the north Oregon coast! The hike is an out-and-back, and as both ends are near sea level, we’ll gain 1,200 ft. in the morning and 1,200 ft. in the afternoon. Our destinations will be open viewpoints of the Pacific coast and of Hart’s Cove, but we’ll be walking about two miles on roads. We’ll have lots of exposure to sun, wind, and/or rain. 14 mi., 2,600 ft., Drive: 182, Barbur Transit Center in SW Portland at 6:30 AM. MU HK B2 Nov. 14 Gales Creek (Storey Burn Loop) Tony E Spiering, 503-680-8112, aespiering@gmail.com. Nice woodsy hike in the Oregon Coast Range. Ferns, small waterfalls, Dominance of Douglas fir trees with other tree species in lower elevations. Lunch at stream crossing then back up and down to trailhead.

8 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive: 50, Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m..

HK A2 Nov. 21 Forest Park - Maple Trail Rex L Breunsbach, 971-832-2556, breunsba@teleport. com. Maple Trail is a lush, somewhat secluded trail within Forest Park. Maple Trail begins and ends at the Lower Saltzman Trailhead and you can do the loop either clockwise or counterclockwise. The loop involves sections of Wildwood and Leif Erickson Drive. Please note: the Lower Saltzman Trailhead is notorious for car break-ins. Leave nothing of value in your car; preferably leave it as empty as possible so as to not entice thieves. 7 mi., 980 ft., Drive: 10, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

HK A2 Nov. 23 Cape Horn Hike Gary T Riggs, 503-236-1883, gary.riggs@outlook.com. Enjoy a good after-Thanksgiving workout with this 7.2 mile loop. Great view of the Columbia Gorge, basalt columns and waterfalls. 7 mi., 1,400 ft., Drive: 55, MMC Parking Lot at 9 a.m. MU BP B1.5 Nov. 24 Backpack: Twin Lakes/ Palmateer Point Regis E Krug, 503-7046442, regis_krug@mentor.com. Never been backpacking in the winter before? Intimidated by it all? This is your opportunity to give it a try. Beginning at the Frog Lake Sno-Park, we will do an easy 2 mile snowshoe hike up the Pacific Crest Trail to Lower Twin Lakes, where we’ll set up camp. Once we?re settled in, you can relax in camp or explore the area around the lake. After a lazy breakfast on Sunday morning, we’ll snowshoe to Upper Twin Lake and Palmateer Point. If the weather cooperates, we should have clear views of Mount Hood, Barlow Butte and the Barlow Creek valley.

Then, it’s back to camp, pack up, and head for the trailhead. About 1,500 feet of elevation gain and 9 miles overall. We’ll have a pre-trip meeting in mid-November to discuss gear and winter backcountry issues. Must signup online in advance! 9 mi., 1,500 ft., Drive: 55, Clackamas Town Center Max Park & Ride Garage at 9 a.m.

HK B2 Nov. 25 Benson Plateau, Herman Creek Rick Craycraft, 503-679-2113, leftfield5@ juno.com. Our return to the Gorge! After a year’s hiatus we’re able to go back to the traditional Thanksgiving weekend Benson Plateau hike. Come join us for an early winter workout. Up the Herman Creek connector trail, then straight to the “gateway” of Benson Plateau on the PCT. Conditions vary from year to year. Check with leader about weather forecast and equipment needs. Limit of 12 hikers. 12.8 mi., 3,720 ft., Drive: 78, Gateway Park & Ride at 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Nov. 28 Elk Mountain Loop Rex L Breunsbach, 971-832-2556, breunsba@teleport. com. Steep Ascent of Elk Mountain, return along Elk Creek. Coast Range. 7.5 mi., 2,500 ft., Drive: 55, Target & SW 185th at 8 a.m.

HK B2 Nov. 14 Bell Mountain from Moulton Falls Rex L Breunsbach, 971-832-2556, breunsba@teleport.com. Ridge hike in SW Washington near Silver Star Mountain. 9 mi., 1200 ft., Drive: 80, MMC Parking Lot at 8 a.m.

NOVEMBER 2018 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is on Tuesday, Nov. 20. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Development Coordinator President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 8:45 p.m. on Monday, October 1. Laura reviewed the meeting’s agenda and asked for approval. A voice vote approved the agenda. Secretary Traci Manning asked to defer approval of the September minutes until the November meeting.

In the Treasurer’s Report, Marty Scott noted that at the end of August total operating revenue is $960,389 and total operating expenses are $1,587,460. Overall income and expenses are tracking close to the most recent forecast.

Past President Chris Kruell asked to address the board. After welcoming the new board members, he encouraged them to learn as much as they can about the Mazamas, to keep in mind the organization’s scope, and to support the day-to-day activities of the staff. He closed by noting that one of the board’s most important duties is to guide the Executive Director and set achievable goals for the organization.

In his Executive Director’s report, Lee Davis noted that his comments at the Annual Meeting were intended to help bring the organization together. As the Mazamas enters into its 125th year,

the organization has an opportunity to bring the membership together around the shared idea of loving and protecting the mountains. He announced Sarah Bradham’s promotion to Director of Operations. Lee ended his brief report with an overview of the current strategic plan, it’s goals and current status.

Sarah Bradham, Director of Operations, then gave a brief overview of the Mazamas organizational structure, upcoming events, and proposed department assignments for board members.

Erica Stock, Mazama Development Director, gave an overview of the Mazamas development plan and needs for the fiscal year 2019. Noting an ambitious goal of $1.2 million, Erica laid out plans to met the target with a combination of member donations, grants, and support from foundations and corporate partners.

Erica concluded by noting that fundraising to cover the Lodge renovations has already begun and is showing positive returns.

No members chose to speak during the member comment period. The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, November 20.

SUMMARY OF ELECTION RESULTS FROM ANNUAL MEETING AND OFFICER ELECTION SESSION Number of votes cast 808 Member Election of Directors Judith Baker* 553 Joe Eberhardt* 416 Walter Keutel 401 Josh Townsley 168 Robin Wilcox* 645 MEMBER ELECTION OF NOMINATING COMMITTEE Number of votes cast 725 George Cummings* 659 Sue Dimin* 592 Joan Zuber* 585 EXECUTIVE COUNCIL ELECTION OF OFFICERS

(all offices uncontested)

President: Laura Pigion Vice President: Marty Scott Secretary: Laura Guderyahn Treasurer: Traci Manning

38 MAZAMAS

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