Mazama April 2019 Magazine

April 2019 Vol. 101 | No. 4

Bulletin

It’s Time to

Inside: 2019 Climb Schedule

Top: Kim Anderson on the summit of Mt. Hood during a memorial climb to honor Miha Sumi. Photo: Andrew Lauman. Left: Looking at South Sister from the summit of Middle Sister. Photo: Andie Wright.

Marc Milobinski rapelling down from the Olympus summit block with the Blue Glacier in the far background. Photo: Helene Simone.

Above right: Brooke Winter on Broken Top.

FEATURES

MONTHLY CONTENT

CONTACT US

Upcoming Activities, p. 4 Mazama Library, p. 6 Volunteer Opportunities, p. 8 Membership Report, p. 23 Classics, p. 24 Outings, p. 26 AYM, p. 28 Travel Programs, p. 33 Mazama Lodge, p. 35 Trail Trips, p.36 Executive Council, p. 38

MAZAMA MOUNTAINEERING CENTER 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org |

Father & Daughter Journey, p. 10 What Should I Climb This Summer?, p. 12 Summer 2019 Climb Schedule, p. 16 Unsung Climbs, p. 20 Timberline News, p. 25 BCEP, p. 30 What's in my pack?, p. 34

Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 am.–7 pm.; Fri. 10 am.–2 pm.

MAZAMA LODGE 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, OR, 97028; Phone: 503-272-9214 Hours: Thu. Noon–Sun. Noon

SARAH BRADHAM Acting Executive Director sarah@mazamas.org

ADVERTISER INDEX

PUBLICATIONS TEAM

Davis Financial, p. 9 Next Adventure, p. 27 Peru Andes Discovery, p. 29 Embark Exploration, p. 29 Green Trails Maps, p. 39

Editor: Sarah Bradham, Executive Director (mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org)

Advertise now! tinyurl.com/ MazamaAdvertising

Cover: Climber on the Cooper Spur route on Mt. Hood. Photo: Emily Cahill

Members: Jonathan Barrett, Reymond Drew, Lindsey Garner, Brian Goldman, Darrin Gunkel, Kevin Machtelinckx, Ali Gray, Tyler MacBeth and Katie Polanshek (publications@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780):

Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to mazama.bulletin@mazamas.org. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 4 p.m. on the third Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

ERICA STOCK Development Director ericastock@mazamas.org MATHEW BROCK Library & Historical Collections Manager mathew@mazamas.org LAURA BURGER Development Coordinator lauraburger@ mazamas.org CHARLES BARKER Mazama Lodge Manager mazama.lodge@ mazamas.org

RENEE FITZPATRICK Finance & Office Coordinator reneefitzpatrick@ mazamas.org MOLLY MOSENTHAL Youth Program Coordinator mollymosenthal@ mazamas.org CLAIRE NELSON Youth & Outreach Manager clairenelson@ mazamas.org JUSTIN ROTHERHAM Education & Activities Program Manager justinrotherham@ mazamas.org KELSEY SHAW Member Services Administrator kelseyshaw@mazamas.org

APRIL 2019 3

UPCOMING ACTIVITIES & EVENTS BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FEST APRIL 5, 6, 7 AT CINEMA 21 APRIL 11, 12, 13 AT REVOLUTION HALL

There are three nights of unique lineups featuring the latest adrenaline inducing, cinematic adventure stories to date! Check out the lineup at Cinema 21 or Revolution Hall and get your tickets today.

Cinema 21: Tickets on sale now on Cinema 21’s website and at REI locations. (cinema21.com) Revolution Hall: Tickets on sale now on Revolution Hall's website. (revolutionhall.com)

MAZAMA CLIMB LEADERS The Climbing Committee has scheduled the following classes for climb leaders to update their qualifications. You can find all of the climb leader classes and register at mazamas.org/calendar/education/ ▶▶ Climb Leader High-Angle Rescue Recert: Saturday, May 4 at the MMC (HA) ▶▶ Climb Leader High-Angle Rescue Full Course: May 22, 29, June 1 and 2.

ROCK ANCHORS 2019: SESSION 1 Class dates: April 24–28, 2019 Registration opens: April 2, 9 a.m.

This class will cover evaluating anchors, building top rope anchors, sport anchors (bolts), rappel anchors, assorted crafty climbing tricks and tips, and have lots of hands-on practice building gear anchors with cams, stoppers, and all that other fun shiny metal stuff !

We will strive to have a 4:1 student:teacher ratio or better, to provide the individual attention required for a detailed class like this. Fees: $55 for members, $75 for non-members Get details at mazamas.org/multi-activity/204/

FAMILIES ROCK SKILLS APRIL 15, 5–8 P.M. AT MMC

Families Rock Skills is an open climbing session on the MMC climbing walls.

Our focus is to help your family become comfortable with roped climbing in a supportive, low pressure atmosphere developed to encourage kids. Kids and parents can earn a belay card to be able to belay at other Families Rock events. All ages are welcome to attend. Bring along some snacks, water, dinner and extra clothing layers. Limited to 20 climbing kids and adults. Fee: $2 per person, $5 max per family. Fee collected at door.

MAZAMA MOUNTAIN RUNNING CAMP Dates: Aug. 2–4 at Mazama Lodge Located at the base of Mt. Hood, at beautiful Mazama Lodge, the Mountain Running Camp is geared towards road and trail runners interested in taking their running to the mountain environment as well as honing their mountain running skills. This 21/2-day, 2-night camp includes group runs, clinics, training plans and philosophies, instruction by top level runners, and more, all in a gorgeous setting!

Led by Yassine Diboun, Joelle Vaught, Amy Sproston, and Jason Leman, this camp will get you ready to confidently run and explore the mountains on your own. Transportation, meals (excellent quality, fresh foods, vegetarian and gluten-free available) are included, along with bunk-style lodging. Mazama Lodge is at appx. 1,500 ft. below historic Timberline Lodge. Runs will take place between 3,000–6,500 ft. in elevation.

Get details at: mazamas.org/mountainrunningcamp/

REQUEST FOR BULLETIN SUBMISSIONS Alex Honnold may be able to do it solo, but we can’t!

You are the Mazamas. Your stories, your adventures, and your knowledge define the club. The Bulletin should represent that. With your help, we can produce a better product for you. The Publications staff is a talented group of writers, editors, and you-can-do-it! cheerleaders willing to help you transform your knowledge and narratives into feature content to be shared with your fellow Mazamas.

What will we publish? Just about anything of interest to the club: tips and tricks, stories of trips taken, reporting on club events, profiles of people, poetry, news from the climbing world, and on and on.

There are two ways that you can get your ideas into print. The first is to tip off our crack team of writers about your idea and let us do all the heavy lifting. The second is to share with us a draft of your contribution, and we can help polish it up. Our staff includes experienced editors capable of working with you to craft top-notch writing.

Pitch us your ideas by emailing publications@mazamas.org Errata: In our March 2019 issue page 22, we inccorectly stated the photo credits. Photos were by Laura Guderyahn, Anna Lio, Hilary Woodard

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THE IMPORTANCE OF THE MOUNTAINS It's almost time for our climbing season to get underway! The last week brought our first sunny, 70 degree day, and spring flowers have been popping up all around town. However, you wouldn't know that spring is on the way if you have spent much time in the mountains—or Gorge!—lately. Last month, 210 Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) students started their journey of mountaineering, and they have spent the last few weeks tackling a variety of training hikes—many with extremely high levels of snow for this time of year.

Our April issue has historically contained our summer climb schedule, and this year is no exception. Even though our climb application process moved entirely online last year, it is still fun to sit down with the print Bulletin and review the upcoming climbs. In addition to the schedule, you also find instructions to help beginning climbers get started exploring the mountains with the Mazamas.

Our climbing program is dedicated to creating shared experiences in the mountains and helping new climbers have safe and supportive experiences as they tackle their first peaks. When new climbers go out with the Mazamas on conditioning hikes, training sessions or beginner climbs they learn to understand and appreciate the alpine environment.

At the Mazamas, our mission of inspiring everyone to love and protect the mountains, drives us to organize people around these outdoor experiences and work to make them accessible to everyone.

Since the Mazamas are an organized community we are able to pursue our mission not just on an individual level, but on regional and national levels. The Mazamas, through staff, volunteers, and partners are working hard to address the threats to public lands in our region. Our partnerships with great organizations like Oregon Outdoors, Outdoor Alliance, Access Fund, Conservation Alliance, and the USFS allow us to share our opinions and concerns from Salem to D.C. As the challenges to our public lands have ramped up considerably over the last few years, our voices are more important than ever before. The more people we have joining and supporting organizations—such as the Mazamas!— that are dedicated to advocating for continued access to public lands for outdoor recreation the more we elevate all of our voices to a pitch that cannot be ignored.

Outdoor recreation is an important part of our local and state economy, and one that has long been ignored as the important economic driver that it is.

Unlike extractive uses, outdoor recreation is a sustaining form of public lands usage.

Activities such as mountain climbing, hiking, backpacking, and trail running stimulate the local economy through purchases of gear, food and drinks, as well as lodging and campgrounds, and create jobs for people in travel and tourism. This continuous source of revenue from our public lands is a strong reason for our lawmakers to work to protect these areas and ensure they are accessible for all for years to come.

In addition to the threat of development and destruction to our mountainareas, we face crumbling infrastructure and massive funding deficiencies. During the government shutdown, many areas saw high levels of vandalism and trash buildup, and it is going to take a significant amount of time and investment to get them back to where they were prior to the shutdown.

In the west, we are also contending with the increasing frequency and size of wildfires. With our summers trending towards hotter and drier, we can expect that wildfires are only going to get worse, and a significant portion of funding for public lands will continue to be funneled towards fire suppression instead of infrastructure maintenance and recreation management.

At the Mazamas, most of us feel a deep connection to the mountains—the summits that we have climbed, the trails we have hiked, the backcountry campsites where we have shared stories under the stars—areas that have changed us and made us who we are, where we have built friendships, and maybe even changed the lives of others through leadership and mentorship. We have a sense of commitment, a duty, to protect these lands and ensure that future generations

have the opportunities for the experiences we have enjoyed.

Many of you may plan your climb season around places that you already love, where you will travel with friends and reminisce about old time. Others will be exploring trails and summits for the first time, and will be laying the groundwork for their lifelong connection to the mountains. You may find yourself helping someone to their first summit, or taking them on their first big backpacking trip, and with that action you are helping to further the Mazamas mission, and potentially create life-changing experiences for people in the backcountry.

As we celebrate our 125th year, we ask you to join us and continue the fight for the protection of our public lands. As you climb and hike this summer, take notice of threats and changes to our mountain environments. Share the Mazamas mission with others who you come in contact with, encourage others to join us, and stay engaged as a Mazama member.

These actions will help ensure that our voices will matter at the state and national level, and we will continue to be able to advocate for outdoor recreation access and the protection of our public lands.

If you are new to climbing, review our website or give us a call so we can help start you on your climbing journey. And if you are a long time climber, make sure to head out to the mountains and spend at least a night or two under the stars, to remember the importance and brilliance of these spaces.

Happy climbing!

Sarah Bradham Acting Executive Director APRIL 2019 5

MAZAMA LIBRARY

Established in 1915, the Mazama Library is nationally recognized as holding one of the top mountaineering collections in the country.

Located on the ground floor of the Mazama Mountaineering Center, the library is a fantastic resource for members and the general public to find information on hiking, climbing, camping and exploring the rich history of regional and global mountaineering culture.

Learn more about the Library & Historical Collection at mazamas.org/library Spotlight—Interview of Mathew Brock, Mazama Library & Historical Collections Manager

by Brian Goldman Mathew Brock, Library and Historical Collections Manager, joined our staff in February of 2015. His responsibilities include: overseeing the Mazama Library, archives, and historic object collections. Besides managing library circulation and processing donations, Mathew oversees a group of volunteers, produces articles for the Bulletin, and social media posts for both the Mazamas Facebook and Instagram pages. He holds a Master of Library and Information Science from the University of Washington and a Bachelor of Social Science, with an emphasis in Anthropology, from the University of Alaska Southeast.

Mathew first climbed South Sister as a teenager. More recently he completed BCEP in the Spring of 2016 and is enjoying rediscovering rock climbing. During his downtime, Mathew enjoys hiking, backpacking, climbing, traveling, and building things.

Have you had any interesting requests over the years for books or information or equipment?

On the library side of things, the most interesting request I’ve had is someone requested a book on rock climbing in Poland.

Turns out we had one! On the archive side of things, mostly pretty standard things—climbing registers and photographs. We’re having some members of the climbing committee looking for old routes or some of the policies that they’ve created. On the artifacts side, we lent out over 80 objects to the High Desert Museum in Bend for a big exhibit they had in mountaineering.

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About how many books are ordered each year? How many old books are recycled? How do you determine which books to purchase?

We order somewhere between 100-150 books a year. We have a collection development policy. We’re a mountaineering organization so anything related to mountaineering. That covers hiking, climbing, rock climbing, training, physiology, psychology, biographies of climbers first and foremost. And if we get requests such as the Carolyn Finney book: Black Faces, White Spaces: Reimagining the Relationship of African Americans to the Great Outdoors. We’re pushing into a diversity, equity and inclusion realm and that book was recommended by one of our Board members.

As the interest of the organization shifts, I try to shift the collection to match it. We keep a full run of editions and don’t cull or wean books out like other libraries do. A lot of people are interested in how outdoor use has changed over the years and you can get to that with guidebooks. There are hikes, routes and climbs that fall out of favor and don’t get picked up in successive editions so looking at those earlier editions can help climbers and hikers with their routes. We’ve got the entire circulating collections and we’ve got quite a bit of room for expansion. We only wean books if they’re so beat up that we can no longer use them—if the pages are falling out or the bindings are broken. If it’s a unique enough title we’ll have it re-bound.

Mountaineers Books is a big publisher of mountaineering titles so I watch their website and I’m in communication with them pretty regularly. We have a relationship with Powell’s Books in Portland and I order a lot of books from them. A lot of hiking and climbing guides are from independent publishers or self-published and I order directly from them. People constantly come in and request books and I’ll get them ordered. Like everybody we use Amazon when we have no other choice.

Do you communicate with other mountaineering libraries?

I’m in contact with librarians from the American Alpine Club, the Sierra Club, the Canadian Alpine Club. The Mountaineers (in Seattle), unfortunately, no longer have a library per se. I’d love to go to The Explorer’s Club in New York City—I bet they have a pretty amazing library given their long history.

Can you browse for books online? If so, how do you go about doing that?

Yep. www.mazamalibrary.org It’s been up for at least two years.

How did you get interested in the library/collections?

When I was hired I was fresh out of library school. I have a Master’s in Library Science. I was interested in information science. I started volunteering at the Oregon Historical Society for a couple of years. When the position here popped up I in my application and went through two interviews before being offered the job. That was four years ago. I’m more of a hiker and backpacker and less a high alpine climber.

Which books are the most requested nowadays?

Guidebooks by far. Oregon, Washington, California, Nevada—any kind of hiking, climbing, especially rock climbing books. Red Rock Canyon in Nevada is really popular this time of year. Smith Rocks. Hiking guidebooks are always really popular. As outings go to different places we get requests. Patagonia has been really key right now. There’s a group going to Portugal and Spain, elsewhere in Europe.

How long can you check out books?

You can have five books out for a month. It’s been that way for well over a hundred years.

What current projects are you working on?

The biggest thing right now is planning the Mazamas 125th anniversary. I’ve got 26 volunteers working on Volume II of We Climb High, John Scott’s chronology of the Mazamas so we’re picking up where he stopped in 1964. We’re bringing it up from 1965 all the way up to 2016. We’ll put out that 2nd volume hopefully in July for the 125th anniversary. The first volume is a great source document. We’re constantly updating catalog records for the library and object and archive collections, I’m working on a Disaster Response Plan, and updating policies. We’re constantly getting donations of

Are books organized according to the Dewey Decimal System?

Yep. Slightly modified because we’re heavily focused on the 900’s— mostly guidebooks, stories of exploration, Everest exploration, biographies. William Sullivan has almost a shelf and a half so we run what’s called a “modified Dewey” to expand some books on the shelf in the 900’s since we’re loaded up on books about the outdoors.

A book about Sasquatch is 001. 796 is the how-to section.

Can you check out maps as well? Or periodicals like Outside magazine?

To be honest not many people look at maps anymore because of GPS and smart phones. People can borrow them on an honor system.

We have outdoorsy magazines: Outside; Backpacker; Rock and Ice; National Geographic; Sierra; Mountaineers; Climbing; Canadian Alpine’s Gazette; Alpinist; Oregon Historical Quarterly. We get journals from different mountaineering clubs and organizations; American Alpine Journal including Accidents in North American Mountaineering; British Alpine Journal; Canadian Alpine Journal; South African Annual; Japanese Alpine Journal; South American Alpine Journal; Backcountry.

We put descriptions of new editions or new releases in the Bulletin. Last year we circulated over 700 books. Awareness is up. Facebook, Instagram, social media in general, and going to conferences builds awareness. We have about 400 active users.

A tour of the storage and archives rooms reveals, among many other objects: ▶▶ Every Mazama patch that has ever been created with a new one coming out for the Mazama 125th anniversary. ▶▶ Correspondence, letters from past presidents, articles, trip journals. ▶▶ Summit registers of climbs from the past 80 years. Sometimes relatives come in, take a scan of a register and then give it as a gift to the successful climber, along with a photo. ▶▶ A rare book collection, some of which are signed by the author. ▶▶ Old mountaineering hardware—ropes, boots, shoes, tents, sleeping bags, backpacks, wood-handled ice axes, skis, snowshoes, clothing, boots, crampons, harnesses.

stuff. There’s a lot of maintenance that goes on.

We used to have a primitive card catalog. In June 2017 I had eight volunteers that spent a month and put a barcode on every book in the collection. We’re just about done with an inventory of our rare books.

APRIL 2019 7

VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES CONSERVATION COMMITTEE MEMBERS

OFFICE VOLUNTEERS

Are you interested in protecting public lands? Do you want to be part of the Mazamas’ long history of environmental stewardship? Consider joining the Conservation Committee. Our next meeting is on April 24th in the MMC downstairs lobby from 7-9 p.m.

Questions? Contact co-chairs Tom Bard at 503-312-9196 or bardtom535@ gmail.com or Kate Evans 503-635-6540 or kateevans97@gmail.com

Are you looking for a fun and interactive way to get to know the Mazama community and programming better? Do you find yourself with free time during the week?

MMC FACILITIES VOLUNTEER Looking for a different kind of volunteer opportunity with the Mazamas?

Want to get a deeper look behind the scenes about how to keep the Mazama Mountaineering Center up and running? Want to learn all you’d ever want to know (and possibly more) about the current state of recycling? Well, we’ve got the volunteer niche for you. Our Building Manager, Rick Craycraft, needs help! The flexibility of this commitment is almost open-ended. We will provide training, possibly hand off certain responsibilities directly and work with you to find out how your interest level and skills can be put to use in the service of our organization. Please email leftfield5@juno.com.

BULLETIN DELIVERY DRIVER We are in need of a small team of volunteers to take on the task of delivering the monthly Bulletins to our local partners. Deliveries take place during the first week of the month and, if done alone, the route takes about 3 hours to complete. Volunteers must have their own means of transportation, but will be eligible for parking meter and mileage reimbursements. Please contact kelsey@mazamas.org if you are interested.

YOUTH OUTREACH VOLUNTEERS Do you enjoy working with youth? Do you enjoy climbing and sharing that passion with others? The Mazamas Youth Outreach Climbing program is in need of volunteer belayers and climbing instructors at Youth Outreach Climbing events. These events occur periodically, predominantly in winter and spring, all days of the week, and all hours of the day. Sign up for one, or for many! Contact molly@mazamas.org to learn more.

LIBRARY ARCHIVE ASSISTANTS Library assistants help move library books back into circulation, which includes sorting materials, verifying the order of books on shelves, and other tasks. Archive assistants help with processing, preservation, and reference requests. Volunteers should have an interest in mountaineering history, basic computer skills, and a willingness to do repetitive tasks, including putting items into alphabetical, numerical, and chronological order. Experience with standard library and archival practices help, but not required. Please contact Mathew Brock, Mazama Library and Historical Collections at mathew@mazamas.org to learn more.

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Apply today to be a Mazama Office Volunteer!

Office Volunteers support staff with everything from answering phones and emails to organizing supplies and helping to manage our database. At the Mazama Mountaineering Center, Office Volunteers are often the first face, and voice, that members and nonmembers interact with, so if you are a friendly person who’s looking to share your inspiration to love and protect the mountains, we want you!

Apply at tinyurl.com/mmcofficevolunteer.

If you are interested in any of these roles, email volunteer@mazamas.org.

DONATE YOUR WARM CLOTHING Last year, through your generous contributions, the Mazamas donated almost 500 lbs. worth of warm clothing to Mainspring, a nonprofit in Portland that addresses economic hardship including food insecurity for families and seniors. Help our Portland neighbors again this winter! The Mazamas will be accepting donations through March. Drop off items in the box in the MMC lobby.

What is needed?

Usable clean, warm clothing Wearable shoes Clean blankets Sleeping bags Backpacks & bags Tents

Please drop off clean and usable items only.

HIKE LEADER SPOTLIGHT

MATT REEDER

▶▶ Hometown? Bloomington-Normal, Illinois ▶▶ Years with the Mazamas? 10 years as of January ▶▶ Favorite trips that you’ve led? Table Lake backpack, July 2015. Have you ever had a perfect trip? I led a group of eight Adventurous Young Mazamas deep into the Mount Jefferson backcountry over 4th of July weekend in 2015. We had the lake to ourselves, followed user trails to incredible viewpoints and just had an absolute blast of a weekend. ▶▶ What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? A DSLR camera—at this point everybody uses their phones to take pictures, but I love carrying around my camera. I never go anywhere outside without it. ▶▶ Favorite Leader Treat? Cookies, especially chocolate chip or peanut butter. ▶▶ When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? A rock star. I’ve always wanted to be a rock star. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know about you? I don’t know how to swim. I never learned, as my parents don’t know how to swim. I’m always looking on with sadness when I go somewhere and people jump into a deep pool or a lake. I’ll learn one of these days. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if....They want to go on an adventure to someplace they’ve never heard of. My specialty is obscure hikes, places other leaders don’t go. They should also come on my hikes if they want to stop for photos—I always stop for photos. ▶▶ Favorite hike to do? There are so many, but my favorite will always be something near Mount Jefferson. There’s a reason I wrote a book about the Mount Jefferson region—it’s always been my favorite, and it will always be my favorite.

A Father-Daughter Journey into Mountaineering Article by Kirsten Auble. Photos by Scott and Kirsten Auble.

M

y journey to loving the mountains began, not on rock, but on rock-and-roll. You see, by age 17, my dad and I had already spent years pursuing three life quests together, one leading to the next. And it all started with Herman’s Hermits.

Yeah, that mop-topped 60s British pop group. I came home one day from middle school at age 10, and told my dad I’d heard this funny song “Henry VIII, I Am”, and asked what he knew about this band.That led to many hours of “School of Rock”-type whiteboard sessions that became a virtual masters course on the history of classic rock. I was hooked deep, and over the next few years, we flung ourselves around the world together to see our favorite bands on their native ground — the Rolling Stones in London, The Pretenders in Akron, Tom Petty in one of his final California performances, AC/DC in their last Australian concert, and scores of others. This quest may only end when the great rockers aren’t with us any more, but the music will always fuel me.

Parents try most kids out in various team sports to test talent, and I was no exception. But I was lousy on teams because I never liked to bump and get physically intimate. So at 12, when my dad suggested I hit a tennis ball around on a neighborhood court, I didn’t have much to lose. Now 6 years later, as an NCAA college tennis player, the years of hard training, millions of balls hit and countless hours travelling to tournaments are the second adventure my dad and I have shared every step of.

By 15, Dad and I were deep in music and tennis quest modes when he called me to his computer to watch a video of Peter Whittaker of RMI taking his 15-year-old daughter Gabriella up Kilimanjaro with a few father-daughter teams. I knew my dad

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did some sort of “climbing,” but my teenage brain equated this to a bunch of old guys hiking, maybe using some weird clips and tools out there. Then seeing a girl exactly my age share all the preparation, the extreme effort and exotic experiences that went into the Whittaker father-daughter expedition, I started to realize why someone would willingly work so hard in the altitude and cold for what had previously seemed to be a short-lived reward.

When the video was over we just looked at each other thinking the same thing — we need to do this.

Within a few months, Dad had hooked up with a team of climbing friends who had also dreamed of conquering Kilimanjaro—including a few Mazamas—signed on with a Tanzanian guiding service, and we had the “roof of Africa” clearly in our sights a few months out.

I can admit now that I had no clue what I was signing up for, so I dug into our plan to understand the climb, train and prepare. Fitting and learning how to use my gear, training hikes, researching the mountain and route, and frequent workouts in the Evolution altitude chamber formed our weeks. The hardest part though was convincing mom to let me skip three weeks of high school to go to Africa and answering the constant questioning of friends—“You’re doing what now!?” With the collaboration of my teachers, I completed weeks of advance homework and was finally ready for the big climb.

As it turned out, I was going to an even better classroom.

While we were there to climb a mountain, the people and culture of Tanzania were a revelation to an American teenager. I got to dance with Masai herdsmen, sample the rich tastes and smells of the Arusha markets, hang out with the Boda Boda taxi men, and meet technicolor wildlife up close and personal. One reality that struck me about Tanzania was that despite the material gap between our lifestyles, Tanzanians seemed immensely happy, and generous with spirit and whatever they had to share.

After several days of acclimatizing, dialing in our gear, and becoming acquainted with our guides, we found ourselves at the Rongai Route trailhead, with the mass of Kilimanjaro above us, too big to take in. We set off through the jungle zone where blue monkeys howled in vines above the well-kept trail. Midway through our first night at Simba Camp, I had to leave the tent to answer nature’s call, only to see pairs of reflective eyes shining from that same jungle at the edge of camp. I made it back quick.

Each of 5 days of higher treks upward brought a new set of mountain discoveries—giant groundsel plants 30 feet tall that look like life from another planet, more stars than I thought possible above our glowing tents at Mawenzie Tarn, and hiking hours through a bone-chilling sleet storm on the way to high camp.

At midnight on summit day, I rolled out of our tent for my first ever alpine start. For hours upon hours we slogged and scrambled up volcanic cinder trails, peeking at the lights of a couple teams ahead of us. Near sunrise, we saw these lamps disappear over the crater rim and knew we were close. A final push, and a long gentle ascent around the crater rim, and we reached the iconic Uhuru peak, 19,341 ft. The summit was all dreamy elation, but the better feeling was the satisfying hike back down the rim, where I could take in the scope of it all, ice cliffs above the clouds, with the plains of East Africa stretching out for hundreds of miles below. Oh, and we carried Portland Trail Blazers jerseys to the top for a special home town summit photo.

Returning from Tanzania with the first of the “seven summits,” I had caught the mountain bug. I knew that this sport was meant for me, but I needed deeper skills to take on tougher mountains. I needed training.

I had seen my dad busy every spring helping to teach a class called BCEP, although I didn’t know too much about it. I asked him if I could sign up, pleading that if I didn’t take it as a high school senior, it would be another four years before I would have the opportunity. Before you could say “on belay” I was a Snake Dog (Rico MicaIlef ’s team). I ate up every BCEP activity—Horsethief, snow skills at Timberline and every training hike, with a fantastic team of newbie mountaineers, who are now all friends and sometimes climbing mates. Experiencing rock concerts and the tennis court with my dad was one thing, but seeing him teach our group how to emergency rappel or build a snow anchor was on another level—the mountains had become the greatest of our shared passions.

Even before BCEP graduation, we were already

plotting how to put my new skills to the test, and get up on my first big Northwest mountain. Rico came through right way with an opportunity to climb Mt. Hood via the Pearly Gates. In addition to earning another father-daughter summit, our group also carried the ashes of a former Mazama climb leader and her son to a memorial on top, making this climb even more meaningful. Watching the sunrise from the highest point in Oregon gave me a new perspective on just how lucky I am. How many seventeen-year-olds can say they summitted Mt. Hood with their dad?

So what’s my latest quest?—more mountains of course! I’ve now summited Mt. Adams with Steve Warner, and completed the Guardian Peaks on St. Helens this March. Then on to more of the Mazamas 16 alongside finishing college and starting a career.

And with my dad? Aconcagua is on our schedule for next Christmas, because, after all, “It’s a Long Way to the Top, If You Want to Rock and Roll.”

APRIL 2019 11

What should I climb this summer?

I

t’s time to answer that perennial question of “What should I do with my summer vacation?” Oh, that’s right, most of us don’t have a real summer vacation anymore. However, you can summit a mountain in a standard weekend, or even on a random weekday for those climbs that are closer to home. It is also possible to beg, borrow, and steal enough vacation time to put together a couple of three-day weekends. Couple that with Memorial Day, July 4th, and Labor Day, and watch your climbing days accumulate.

So, now that you know you have the time, what should you climb?

For those of you that are new to climbing, you may have heard of some of the more “famous” mountains and want an opporunity to stand on their summits. For those of you that have been climbing for a few years you may be looking for some more obscure peaks to add to your climb resume. Or your interest might lie in highly technical routes to test your skills.

The good news is the Mazama climb schedule this year has something for everyone—many standard routes up the classic peaks, little-known peaks in both familiar and little known locations, technically demanding routes, family and kid-friendly climbs, and much more. Now you just need to figure out which routes are right for you. To that end we have developed a great new online climb schedule to help you sort and research climb information.

The online climb schedule is searchable and filterable, and contains route information on each route and leader. You can filter the calendar at mazamas.org/calendar to see just the climbs, and from there you can search by mountain or leader or even grad preference.

In addition to the climbs that are already on the schedule, you'll notice that leaders will be adding climbs all throughout the spring and summer. It's become more common in the last few years to have a large chunk of the spring and summer climbs submitted after the April Bulletin is printed.

The most popular climbs, by far, are Mt. Hood and Unicorn Peak.

So don't be disappointed if you don't get a slot on a climb of one of those peaks! There are plenty more peaks to give you a wonderful alpine experience, and perhaps even discover an area that you have never visited before.

Happy climbing!

Here are brief descriptions of a few of the climbs listed on the 2019 Mazama Climb Schedule.

Mt. Adams, South Side (12, 276 feet)

The South Side route is a high, gentle climb, great for beginning climbers who want an overnight trip with fewer people and a more wilderness feel than Hood.

Mt. Baker (10,788 feet), Various routes

Mt. Baker reclaimed the world record for single season snowfall in 1998-99—95 FEET, taking the crown from Mt. Rainier. Next to Rainier, Baker is the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. Route opportunities on Mt. Baker are numerous, from long, low-angle glacier crossings to steep, technical ridge and headwall climbs.

Broken Top, NW Ridge (9,175 feet)

Above: Bridget Martin on Mt. Baker. Photo: Ralph Daub. Below, right: 4th class scramble just below the summit of Del Campo Peak. Photo: Tim Donner.

A jagged peak that looks impossible from certain angles, Broken Top has a very pleasant and relatively simple ascent route from the NW Ridge. To get to the northwest ridge you can either approach through the stunning Green Lakes Basin or pristine Park Meadow.

The climb affords you a fun day of ridge hiking, a short 15 foot pitch of 5th class rock, and then an exposed “walk” to breathtaking views of central Oregon.

The Brothers, South Couloir (6,800 feet)

An exposed 3rd to 4th class scramble up this craggy twin-peaked mountain, affords incredible views of the interior of the Olympic Mountains. A combination of easy access, with some challenging routefinding, makes for a fun weekend trip.

Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer

A classic, moderate introduction to alpine climbing in the Tatoosh Range.

This is good beginner trip and is fairly close to home. Pinnacle Peak has some exposed scrambling on good rock to an “airy� summit, and The Castle involves a short pitch (15-20 feet) of roped climbing on low 5th class rock. On clear days, the views of Mt. Rainier are stunning.

Mt. Daniel, Daniel Glacier (7,960 feet)

Mt. Daniel has been described as a classic alpine peak along the Cascade crest. It offers a moderate approach, scenic camp, interesting route and outstanding views from its snowfields and glaciers.

Del Campo Peak

Located in the Monte Cristo region of the Central Cascades, Del Campo shows an isolated craggy, angular profile, offering interesting climbing and dramatic summit views.

APRIL 2019 13

Mt. Hood, various routes (11,240 feet)

The route choices on Mt. Hood are innumerable, and this year climb leaders will be offering up 7 different routes—from the standard Old Chute to the more challenging Sunshine route. No matter which route you choose, you will find technical challenges along the way to the summit. If you want to avoid the crowds, look for a weekday climb of the peak.

Middle Sister, North Ridge (10,047 feet)

“Middle” in difficulty between South and North Sister, this is a nice climb with a great approach—just about 5 miles and 1500 vertical feet to great camping at treeline ( from the east). A bit of snow travel, gentle slopes, and one pitch of steep snow near the top make this a good route for those looking for an easy to moderate multi day trip.

North Sister, Northwest or South Ridge (10,085 feet)

North Sister is the fourth highest point in Oregon and the toughest of the Three Sisters. You are likely to encounter the famous portable hand holds of the Oregon Cascade range. The route is unpredictable —it can be anything from exposed ice to moderate snow and 3rd class rock. Later season tends to be easier conditions.

Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier (7,969 feet)

The tallest peak in the Olympic Range, Mt. Olympus is known for its long approach—13 miles or so up the beautiful (and mostly flat) Hoh River valley, and then a steeper 4.5 miles up to high camp. Climb day involves crossing the striking Blue Glacier for which this route is named, moderate steep ascent on Snow Dome to a long glacier traverse towards the remote summit pinnacle. A rock scramble brings you to the highest point in the Olympic Range.

14 MAZAMAS

REVIEW THE CLIMB SCHEDULE AND APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS ON THE UPCOMING PAGES. AND REMEMBER, LEADERS WILL BE ADDING CLIMBS ALL THROUGHT THE SPRING/SUMMER. CHECK BACK FREQUENTLY FOR NEW ADDITIONS!

Above: Suvi Chisholm on Middle Sister. Photo: Ritchie Farmer. Above, right page: Alex Lockhard and Ania Wiktorowicz on Unicorn Peak. Photo: Aimee Filimoehala. Bottom, right page: Gary Riggs rappelling off Broken Top. Photo: Amy Brose

Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier (7,106 feet)

An easily accessible and straightfoward glacier climb to an isolated summit at the edge of the most rugged region of the North Cascades.

Amazing views of Mt. Shuksan and Mt. Baker and the adjacent wild Picket Range await!

Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier (9,127 feet)

Mt. Shuksan is one of the classic 16 Cascade Peaks—and for good reason. It offers classic, alpine features of heavy glaciation and a prominent rock summit pinnacle. Moderate climbers and technical climbers alike can find great opportunities on Shuksan. Sulphide Glacier offers a moderate glacier crossing, while Fisher Chimneys challenges climbers with a mixed route of exposed scrambling and steep snow.

Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake (6,917 feet)

Unicorn Peak, the highest point in the Tatoosh Range on the southern end of Mt. Rainier National Park, is a great one-day mixed climb.

A moderate snow slope leads to a low 5th class summit pinnacle. The summit pinnacle involves a bit of exposure and an airy rappel.

Summer 2019 Climb Schedule On the following pages you will find the current spring/summer 2019 climb schedule. Climbs will be added to the schedule continuously throughout the next few months. Applications for climbs are online.

For full details on how to apply, go to mazamas.org/applyclimbs/

WHEN WILL THE CLIMB APPLICATION PROCESS OPEN? Many climbs open for applications on Monday, April 15. However, many later season climb will have a later application open date.

Each climb has its registration open date prominently displayed. Please make note of it as you review the climb schedule and plan accordingly. *while most climbs adhere to this schedule, several do not.

APPLICATION OPEN TIME The application will open at 9 a.m. on the Application Open Date.

ARE CLIMB SLOTS FIRST COME FIRST SERVE? No. The climb leader sets a number of applicants they are willing to review for any given climb, as well as a number of climbers for their climb. The system will accept applicants until the max number of applicants set by the climb leader is reached. The climb leader will then review their applicants and select their climb team.

WHAT ARE CLIMB LEADERS LOOKING FOR IN A CLIMBER? Climb leaders don’t necessarily all follow the same criteria. However, most are attempting to put together a wellrounded team. Offer as much relevant information as possible in your profile to help your chances of being selected.

16 MAZAMAS

I WANT TO CLIMB MT. HOOD. SHOULD I JUST APPLY TO ALL OF THE MT. HOOD CLIMBS? No! Applying for multiple climbs on the same mountain (especially on the same route) is highly discouraged. Leaders will be provided with lists of the climbs their applicants have applied for, so if you apply for multiple climbs of the same mountain, a leader may be less likely to accept you.

AM I CHARGED WHEN I APPLY? No. However, you must provide a credit card number when applying.

If you are accepted, your credit card will be charged immediately upon acceptance.

WHAT IS THE CANCELLATION POLICY? If you apply for a climb and are accepted, and then cancel, you will not receive a refund. If the climb is canceled your card will be refunded within 7–10 days.

MY MAZAMA PROFILE DOESN’T HAVE ALL OF MY TRAINING BADGES. HOW DO I ADD THEM? Review your profile and then review all of the badges offered at beta.mazamas.org/badges. Then click “Request a Badge” and apply for any of the badges that are missing from your profile. We will typically have them added to your profile within 48–72 hours.

HOW DO I SHARE MY CLIMB/ TRAINING EXPERIENCE WITH A CLIMB LEADER? Your profile will be shared with your leader when you apply. Your profile is a combination of your training with the Mazamas, your outside training, and other details you choose to share. The Bio field and Climb History field are both rich text fields. You can include a bulleted list of past climbs and/ or training, or you could even create a google doc or PDF and provide a link to it in your Climb History field. Curious how that would work? Check out our online instructions and videos at mazamas.org/applyclimbs.

CAN I WITHDRAW MY APPLICATION PRIOR TO BEING ACCEPTED? Yes! If you apply for a climb and decide that you do not want to be considered for the climb prior to being accepted, you may withdraw from the climb. If you withdraw before acceptance your credit card will not be charged.

HOW WILL I BE NOTIFIED OF MY STATUS ON THE CLIMB? When a climb leader takes action on your application, you will receive an email indicating your status. You will either be Accepted, Not Accepted, or Wait Listed. Your credit card will only be charged if you are accepted.

How to Apply

1 2 3 4 5

CREATE AN ACCOUNT Go to mazamas.org

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SIGN THE LIABILITY WAIVER Located on your Dashboard once logged in Sign the liability waiver once and then you are done! It is in place for all Mazama activities.

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COMPLETE YOUR PROFILE Login and click on Profile, then click Edit Required fields— certain fields in your profile are required in order to apply for an activity.

VIEW CALENDAR

8

Go to: mazamas.org/calendar Calendar Filters—to view all upcoming climbs, apply the Climb filter and change the timeframe from the defaultsetting of 3 months to 6 months.

SELECT CLIMBS Filter by Location, Grade, Grad, or a combination Grad Preference indicates that leaders are interested in taking current year graduates from the class listed.

What is a Multi-Part Climb (M)?

9

REVIEW CLIMB DETAILS Review the activity notes and climb details of climbs you are interested in.

Read the information about the climb carefully, including start time and end time, leader info, and any specific notes the leader has listed about the climb.

APPLICATION OPEN DATE Note the application open date of climbs you are interested in.

Registration Open Dates are variable.

Make sure to note the date of the climbs you are interested in and plan accordingly. The application opens at 9 a.m. on the application open date.

APPLY! Click on Apply and follow the prompts Payment—You’ll need to input a credit card in order to apply. You’ll only be charged if accepted.

NOTIFICATION Once you apply you will receive an email You’ll receive a system-generated email when you apply.

Get full instructions, including videos, at mazamas.org/gettingstarted

You’ll notice a few climbs on the schedule that have an (M) following the mountain and route. This indicates the climb encompasses multiple peaks. In the past, we would have referred to most of these climbs as Linked Climbs. For multi-part climbs you will be directed to apply for the main activity, and if accepted, you will be registered for all of the peaks that are a part of the Multi-Part climb.

APRIL 2019 17

Mountain, Route

Start Date

End Date

Grade Grad Pref.

Leader

Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Rainier, Gibralter Ledge Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, Sunshine Gove Peak/Green Lake Mt. Hood South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood/South Side Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Direct Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood/South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Third Mother Mountain, Wonderland Trail Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Mt. Hood/South Side Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek-Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Leuthold Couloir Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier, Ski climb Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek Big Snagtooth Kangaroo (Summer 2019): Big Snagtooth (M) Big Snagtooth Kangaroo (Summer 2019): Big Kangaroo (M) Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake (Summer 2019) Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake (M) (Summer 2019) Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge (M) Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt Hood, Sunshine Route Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Double Peak, Chinook Creek Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail (M) The Brothers South Couloir Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Mt. Stone, West Ridge (M) Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge Climb Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys (with Southeast Ridge variation) Mt. Lawson/North Ridge Mt. Thielsen, East Peak Mt. Olympus Solstice Celebration Mt. Rainier, Tahoma Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake (M) Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge (M) Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Strawberry Mountain, NE Ridge Castle, Pinnacle & Plummer Peaks Mt. Deception, Royal Basin Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, North Ridge Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake The Brothers, South Couloir / Lena Lake Eldorado Peak, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge

4/29 5/1 5/1 5/2 5/2 5/5 5/5 5/8 5/8 5/9 5/9 5/11 5/11 5/14 5/14 5/17 5/17 5/18 5/19 5/20 5/22 5/23 5/23 5/24 5/24 5/25 5/26 5/25 5/30 5/31 5/31 6/1 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/8 6/9 6/9 6/10 6/12 6/13 6/13 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/15 6/15 6/17 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/22 6/21 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/22 6/23 6/26 6/27 6/27 6/28 6/29 6/29

4/29 5/1 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/5 5/6 5/8 5/9 5/12 5/12 5/11 5/12 5/14 5/15 5/17 5/19 5/18 5/21 5/21 5/22 5/24 5/26 5/26 5/27 5/25 5/26 5/27 6/1 5/30 5/31 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/3 6/3 6/8 6/8 6/9 6/10 6/9 6/9 6/10 6/12 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/16 6/15 6/16 6/17 6/17 3/19 6/22 6/24 6/23 6/21 6/22 6/23 6/22 6/23 6/24 6/23 6/23 6/27 6/28 6/29 6/29 6/30 7/1

B B BCEP D B BCEP; ICS; FM101 C ICS A B BCEP B B BCEP C BCEP; ICS C BCEP; ICS B B BCEP; ICS B BCEP B BCEP B B B BCEP; ICS D AR; ICS B BCEP B BCEP; FM101 C ICS B ICS B Ski Mountaineering B B ICS C ICS B BCEP D ASI; ICS A B B BCEP; ICS C BCEP; ICS B BCEP; ICS C ICS C BCEP; ICS A BCEP B BCEP A C ASI; BCEP; ICS B BCEP; ICS B BCEP B BCEP B B BCEP; ICS B B B BCEP; ICS B B B BCEP; ICS C ICS A A C ICS C B B B BCEP B BCEP B BCEP C BCEP A B BCEP C ICS B BCEP B B B B ICS

Dick Bronder Michael Hortsch Rico Micallef Larry Beck Mike Levis Doug Wilson John Godino Bob Breivogel Tim Scott Karen Graves Matt Sundling Joe Eberhardt Marc Milobinski Long ONg Tim Scott Gary Bishop Doug Wilson Tracie Weitzman Gary Ballou Tim Scott Karen Graves Larry Beck Mike Levis Jon Major Bob Breivogel Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Thomas Miller Matt Sundling Teresa Redman Gary Bishop John Meckel John Meckel Alex Fox Gary Ballou Alex Fox Bob Breivogel Guy Wettstein Doug Wilson Marc Milobinski Bob Breivogel John Godino John Godino Marty Scott Greg Scott Walter Keutel Mike Levis Jon Major Walter Keutel Mike Levis Andrew Bodien Matt Sundling Daniel Mick Joe Whittington Daniel Mick Rico Micallef James Jula James Jula Guy Wettstein Chris Kruell Bill McLoughlin Matt Sundling Bill Stein Chris Kruell Daniel Mick Rico Micallef Gary Bishop Josh Lockerby Daniel J Mick Marc Milobinski

18 MAZAMAS

Mountain, Route

Start Date

Mt. Maude, South Shoulde Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Sloan Peak, Corkscrew Route Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge (M) Mt. Washington (OR), North Ridge (M) Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier (M) Icy Peak, North Route (M) Mt. Ruth (M) Icy Peak (M) Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Cowhorn Mountain, West Ridge Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Washington, North Ridge (M) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge (M) Del Campo Peak, South Gully (M) Gothic Peak, East Side (M) Mt Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier Ingalls Peak, South Face Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Mt. Carrie, Catwalk Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge Cowlitz Chimney, West Side Mt. Stone, West Ridge (M) Mt. Skokomish, Putvin Trail (M) Cowhorn Mountain, West Ridge (M) Diamond Peak, South Ridge (M) Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacie Mt. Jefferson, Marion County Highpoint (M) Mt. Jefferson, North Ridge (M) Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge/Standard Route Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier North Sister South Ridge Middle Sister/ SE Ridge (M) South Sister, North Face Couloir (M) Cowhorn Mountain, West Ridge Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge Governor's Ridge, Owyhigh Lakes Plummer-Denman, Standard Castle/Pinnacle, Standard/East Ridge North Sister, South Ridge-Hayden Glacier Mt. Wow, Lake Allen Redstone Peak, Standard Route Liberty Bell, Becky Route Ragged Ridge Traverse North Cascades (M) Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt.. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge South Sister/Broken Top: South Sister (M) South Sister/Broken Top: Broken Top (M) Mt. Hubris (The Ogre), Cosmic Wall Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Borah Peak, Chicken Out Ridge Broken Top/South Sister: Broken Top, NW Ridge (M) Broken Top/South Sister: South Sister, Green Lakes (M) North Sister, SE Ridge Goat Island Mountain, Frying Pan Creek Golden Horn-Tower Mountain (Summer 2019); Golden Horn (M) Golden Horn-Tower Mountain (Summer 2019); Tower Mountain (M) Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer Traverse, Standard Mt. Washington, North Ridge Mt. Aix, Nelson Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge

6/29 6/29 7/3 7/3 7/5 7/11 7/12 7/13 7/13 7/15 7/15 7/16 7/17 7/17 7/18 7/19 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/20 7/25 7/26 7/28 7/30 8/1 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/3 8/4 8/3 8/3 8/3 8/8 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/11 8/17 8/21 8/23 8/24 8/24 8/25 8/28 8/29 8/31 9/2 9/6 9/6 9/7 9/7 9/8 9/10 9/10 9/14 9/15 9/14 9/21 9/21 9/21 9/21 9/22 9/22 10/12 11/2

End Date 7/1 7/3 7/9 7/6 7/7 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/17 7/17 7/18 7/18 7/20 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/21 7/22 7/27 7/29 7/30 8/3 8/3 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/3 8/4 8/5 8/5 8/5 8/10 8/12 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/19 8/22 8/23 8/24 8/25 8/25 8/29 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/6 9/6 9/9 9/9 9/10 9/10 9/14 9/14 9/15 9/15 9/21 9/22 9/22 9/21 9/22 9/22 10/12 11/2

Grade Grad Pref.

B BCEP C BCEP; ICS C ICS C D ASI; ICS C C ICS C C B B BCEP B B C BCEP; ICS A B C ICS C ICS B BCEP B BCEP A C ICS D AR; ICS B BCEP; ICS C ICS B BCEP; ICS C B B BCEP B BCEP A A C BCEP B ICS C ICS B BCEP; ICS; FM101 C ICS C BCEP; ICS B BCEP; ICS E BCEP; ICS A B A A B C BCEP; ICS A A D AR; ICS A A B B A BCEP B BCEP D AR; ICS A B BCEP; ICS B A C AR; ICS A C C C BCEP B BCEP C BCEP A A BCEP; ICS

Leader Bob Breivogel Long Ong Lynne Pedersen Chris Kruell Matt Sundling Long Ong Michael P Levis Greg Scott Greg Scott Rico Micallef Rico Micallef Larry Beck Larry Beck Gary Bishop Jill Kellogg Greg Scott Bill McLoughlin Bill McLoughlin Bob Breivogel Bob Breivogel Bill Stein Long Ong Gary Ballou Long Ong Chris Kruell Andrew Bodien Walter Keutel Michael Hortsch Greg Scott Greg Scott Jill Kellogg Jill Kellogg Bob Breivogel Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Nicole Gaines Mike Levis Jon Major Tim Scott Tim Scott Daniel Mick Bob Breivogel Doug Wilson Teresa Redman Dick Bronder Long Ong Dick Bronder Doug Wilson Thomas Miller Daniel Mick Bill Stein Gary Bishop Josh Lockerby Amy Graham Amy Graham Gary Ballou Dick Bronder Andrew Bodien Bill McLoughlin Bill McLoughlin Greg Scott Bob Breivogel Daniel Mick Daniel Mick Glenn Widener Bob Breivogel Glenn Widener Daniel Mick Andrew Bodien

APRIL 2019 19

Photo by Darrin Gunkel

Unsung Climbs Trying to get off the beaten track this climbing season? Five Mazamas offer their suggestions for climbs they wish more people would sing the virtues of.

THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ON MT DANIEL (ALPINE WILDERNESS)—Darrin Gunkel Why do you like this climb?

It’s a perfect over-nighter. The approach hike is fabulous - long, varied, and scenic, not grueling. The base camp at Peggy’s Pond, under the backside of Cathedral Peak is worthy of a trip all by itself. Views span the Cascades from Glacier to Rainier and east to the Stewart Range. Daniel’s also the King County, Washington high point. And then there’s the granite and glaciers of Alpine Lakes, which this climb gets you very close to.

What is great about the climb itself ?

The route up the ridge is like a harder version of the approach. It’s a fine workout, but not so demanding you won’t have time to admire the ever-expanding views of the heart of Alpine Lakes. It gets a wee bit technical near the top (see below), which keeps it interesting. Finally, the awesome summit plateau includes four peaks to bag and plenty of excellent exploring.

Why do you think it’s unsung?

Maybe because of the long-ish approach for a “mere” 8,000-foot peak.

There are also a lot of other peaks in Alpine Lakes that steal all Daniel’s thunder.

Who would the climb be good for?

The round trip is almost 15 miles, with 5,000 ft. elevation, which means you can take the leisurely, multi-day approach, or tough it out in a single day if you like getting a lot of bang for your buck. There is a Class 3, or maybe low 4, maneuver near the top, but it’s short -- if you’ve made it through BCEP, you should be able to handle it. Also, anyone who wants to get to know the alpine parts of Alpine Lakes Wilderness better, but isn’t up for Mt. Stewart, should head for Daniel.

Photo by Andrew Bodien

20 MAZAMAS

JOINT CLIMB OF RUTH PEAK AND ICY PEAK—Rico Micallef Why do you like to lead these climbs?

The Mazama’s focus on the 16 most prominent peaks, and there are many other peaks in the North West that are spectacular. I have lead the 16 peaks, and I like variety so now I either lead less popular routes on the 16 peaks or other peaks.

What is great about the climb itself ?

Last year I participated on a climb of Ruth Peak. I did it as a provisional climb for a friend. The views from Ruth were spectacular, in particular incredible views of Mt Shuksan. From the summit of Ruth you could see Icy Peak, unfortunately we did not have enough time to climb Icy Peak, so I wanted to come back in 2019 and climb it. It is remote peak just beyond Ruth Peak. As a result it is not climbed that often, and that makes it interesting! In addition I have never seen it on the Mazama schedule!

Why do you think it’s unsung?

As I said above the Mazamas are fixated on the 16, so in general anything that is not one of the 16 is underrated. I enjoy every summit, regardless of whether it is a walk up or a technical climb. The North Cascades are incredible, everywhere you look there is another peak. I never get tired of the views in the North Cascades. This peak was just beyond my reach last year, so I have to go back and take care of that!

Who would the climb be good for?

The plan is 3 days. We will leave from the trailhead 1st thing in the morning, and summit Ruth Peak. We will set up camp at the summit of Ruth Peak. The next day we will proceed to Icy Peak, summit and return to Ruth Peak. The following day we will hike out and return to Portland. Both Ruth and Icy are B rated climbs, and are great climbs for BCEP grads, but given that we will take full packs to the summit of Ruth, you need to be in good shape to summit both of them.

MT. AIX—Joe Petsche Why do you like to lead these climbs?

As a level A climb, it’s something that everyone can do in a relaxed manner. My preferred schedule is leisure drive up Saturday morning. Cook an early dinner Saturday night and sit by the fire. Get an early start on the mountain Sunday, be back to the car well before dinner. On the way home to Portland, stop and get dinner.

What is great about the climb itself ?

The views are spectacular. Mt. Rainier is in the background.

You feel as if you are really remote without the drive to the N. Cascades.

Why do you think it’s unsung?

Far drive from Portland (4+ hours) for a fairly straightforward mountain. As people advance in their mountain abilities I feel they desire more challenge given their drive time.

Who would the climb be good for?

BCEP Grads, friends looking for a fun weekend out of town. There are lots of campsites near by the trail head. If fire danger is low, it’s great to make s’mores and gather around the fire pre (or post) climb.

APRIL 2019 21

COPPER MOUNTAIN VIA WAGONWHEEL LAKE (OLYMPIC NP)—Andrew Bodien Why do you like this climb?

It has a nice mix of hiking, snow travel and rock scrambling. Plus, it is in the Olympic Mountains!

What is great about the climb itself ?

This climb starts out with a steep hike up to Wagonwheel Lake. Then one must go off trail and navigate to the basin that is north of the summit ridge. Once you get on the ridge and make your way to the summit there is a little exposure, but the climbing is not challenging. The views of the surrounding peaks of the southeast corner of the Olympics are fantastic.

Why do you think it’s unsung?

It is a minor peak, overshadowed by its neighbors Mt. Ellinor, The Brothers, and Mt. Stone.

Wagonwheel Lake is a little underwhelming.

Who would the climb be good for?

Beginners who are looking to get comfortable with scrambling that has a little exposure. I would recommend climbing in May or June. Make sure the snow is stable.

THE STEAMBOAT CAPTAIN’S DREAM, BEACON ROCK—Jonathan Barrett Why do you like this climb?

It’s a bit of everything, with a style of climbing not seen on most of Beacon Rock. The first pitch is a heady trad lead. The second is a combo of clipping bolts and plugging gear on a steep face. Then there is a wicked lay-back pitch followed by scrambling. Then there is a sport climbing pitch and a loose, alpinefeeling final corner protected by trad gear. You really get it all on this climb.

What is great about the climb itself ?

You will almost certainly have it to yourself as most people don’t even know it exists, even though it is almost the closest climb to the parking lot. And, in the summer, it is on the NW face, so it can be relatively cool.

Why do you think it’s unsung? ​It’s not in the Portland Rock Climbs book and the description on mountainproject was only recently updated. Then there is the first pitch which can be difficult to read. Even though I have done it a handful of times, I still hesitate when route finding. Additionally, what some people might call scrappy fun, others might label a junk show.

Who would the climb be good for?

Do you have to be strong? Not necessarily. But you need to be comfortable placing some funky gear on pitch one. The moves on the hardest two pitches are generally well protected by bolts. Plus, when you are on pitch two, you are hanging out over the road. Folks going to hike up the trail to the summit of Beacon will likely stop and point at you!

Photo by Jonathan Barrett 22 MAZAMAS

e m o c Wel

NEW MAZAMAS

NEW MEMBERS: 58 Pat Bailey—Mt. St Helens Rocky Beck— South Sister Blake Bluestein—Bonanza Peak (WA) Andrew Bray—Eagle Cap (OR) Casey Carte—Mt. Adams Kristi Carver—Mt. St Helens Daniel Cavanaugh—South Sister Steve Chapin—Mt. St Helens John Chen—Mt. Adams Anton Clifford—Mt. Adams Joey Cole—Mt. Adams Zac Fitzgerald—Mt. St Helens Judy Flynn—Mt. Kenya Michael Friton—Middle Sister Lynall Gee—Mt. St Helens Drew Gillan—Mt. Hood Amy Gillis Nokes—Mt. Hood Larissa Gordon—South Sister William Beau Griffith—Mt. Whitney Hana Hiratsuka—Mt. Adams

Christopher Hosman—Mt. Hood Andrew Johnson—Mt. St Helens Rachel Kenner—Mt. St Helens Paul Kuroda—Pico de Orizaba (MX) Lauren Ladky—Mt. Adams Becky Landeros—Mt. Adams Jeffrey Leadford—Middle Sister Jimmy Lorang—Mt. St Helens Andres Malavasi—Mt. St Helens Kyle Mangione—South Sister Alix Martelly—Mt. St Helens Steven Masters—Mt. Olympus Cory McCoy—South Sister Aaron Richard Miller—Mt. St Helens Will Newbill—Mt. Hood Harry Parimi—Mt. St Helens Deziree Perea—Mt. St Helens Eartha Roulier—Mt. Adams Steven Schaefer—South Sister Steve Schmitt—Mt. St Helens

Eric Schwab—Mt. Adams Andrew Shaughnessy—South Sister Jennifer Solís—Mt. St Helens Matthew Sullivan—Huayna Potosi (BO) Zack Thornton—Mt. Hood Anthony Traver—Mt. St Helens Preston Turano—Mt. Hood Shannon Wages—Mt. Hood Vickie Walker—Mt. Jefferson Brian Wellman—South Sister Donna Wiench—Mt. Hood Mark Willard—Mt. St Helens Graham Willis—Mt. Whitney Derrick Wood—Mt. St Helens Jennifer Woodruff—Mt. St Helens Scott Zajac—South Sister Belinda Zamora—Mt. Rainier Astrid Zervas—Mt. Kilimanjaro

REINSTATEMENTS: 4

Diane Lloyd (2014), Malia Tam Sing (2015), Erik Rudd (2006), & Erin Wirtz (2012)

DECEASED: 0 Total Membership as of: Feb. 28, 2018: 3,336 Feb. 28, 2019: 3,339

Our new members join a 124-year legacy of mountaineering, exploration, stewardship, advocacy, and a love of the outdoors and outdoor recreation. Please give them a warm welcome if you encounter them in a class, activity, or an evening program. We welcome you to our ranks!

MEMBERSHIP BENEFITS Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, a recent BCEP graduate, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership.

JOIN THE MAZAMAS TODAY! Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the most active mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join ▶▶ DISCOUNTED rates on all Mazama activities—climbs, hikes, classes, and outings. ▶▶ This MAGAZINE, filled with articles, photos, activities, and events delivered to your door monthly. ▶▶ DISCOUNTS at local retailers and gyms. ▶▶ Access to MAZAMA LODGE at the base of Mt. Hood. ▶▶ The Mazama Annual, a yearbook of the past year at the Mazamas, including articles, awards, and recognition of our volunteers. ▶▶ Free RESCUE INSURANCE anywhere in the world below 6,000 meters. ▶▶ Full access to the world-class MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARY. APRIL 2019 23

CLASSICS For members with 25 years of membership, or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace.

We lead a wide variety of year round activities including hikes, picnics and cultural excursions. Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. (formerly known as Old Timers)

CONTACTING THE CLASSICS If you wish to contact the Classics, you can call or email Chair Flora Huber at 503-658-5710 or flobell17@comcast.net, or email classics@mazamas.org.

VOLUNTEERS NEEDED We are looking for volunteers to step up and help run the committee.

Positions we need to fill are secretary, activities coordinator, and database updater and help or backup for same.

You don’t have to commit to three years but, of course, it would be so nice if you could. Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month at 11 a.m. at the MMC. Email classics@mazamas. org and state how you can help.

LEADING EVENTS IN APRIL Send details to classics@mazamas. org by the twelfth of each month for inclusion in the Bulletin.

CLASSICS COMMITTEE MEETING Next Classics Committee meeting is on Monday, March 25th at 11:15 a.m. in the MMC Library (a week early due to the Memorial Day holiday). Our meetings are the fourth Monday of every other month, 11 a.m.–12:30 p.m. at the MMC, in the library.

CLASSICS TRANSPORTATION PLAN Our east side transportation pick up point will be Gateway; our west side will be the Sunset Transit Center. If you are interested in providing or receiving rides to Classics events you can sign up on the Classics section of the Mazama website or contact our transportation coordinator Flora Huber at flobell17@ comcast.net or 503-658-5710.

MON. APR. 15: CIRCLE TWIN LAKES HIKE Our pace will be steady and gentle. Meet at Frog Lake Snopark lot. Arrive by 9:15 a.m. and depart on the Twin Lakes trail at 9:30 a.m. We will hike past the Lower Twin and the Upper Twin Lake then continue up to Palmateer Point, where we will stop for lunch and enjoy views of Mt. Hood, if it is good weather. If only okay weather, i.e. light rain or possibility of it, we won’t sit at the Point in the rain and eat, but along the trail. Please feel free to bring a cup and extra water, since I will have a stove for lunch coffee, tea or soup. After our lunch break, we will continue around to the PCT and return to the trailhead. Estimate distance is 7-8 miles.

Leader: David Christopher, David.R.Christopher@gmail.com, 503317-5660. You may signup online at mazamas.org/calendar.

Mosier Plateau, photo by Hal Howard

TUES. APR. 16: MOSIER PLATEAU HIKE Join the Classics on a leisurely hike of the Mosier Plateau with views of the Mosier Pioneer Cemetery, Mosier Creek Falls, the Mosier Valley, and the Columbia. Hopefully it will be prime Arrowleaf Balsamroot blooming season on the plateau. The distance is 3.5 miles roundtrip with a 600 ft. gain (moderate difficulty with some stairs). Bring a lunch and hiking poles. We’ll have lunch on top of the plateau overlooking the Columbia Gorge. Meet at the MMC at 9:15 a.m. to carpool. Please RSVP. Leader: Hal Howard, commerce@thehowards3.net or 503-293-1528.

THU. APR. 25: CLASSICS LUNCHEON & MEETING The Classics Luncheon will be at Buffet Palace, 12570 Center Street, April 25 at Noon.

Timberline Lodge Acquires Land in Swap To Add High-Speed Gondola*

by Winchester Barr

W

February 1, 2019

hile most of the government was shut down during the month of January, a cabal of wilderness managers, Timberline executives, and well-meaning climbers met to force through a sweeping change of the Timberline Ski Resort. In a shockingly obvious land exchange, the resort traded all of the terrain accessed by Molly’s Lift for the twelve acres which comprise the summit of Mt. Hood. In doing so, they have acquired access to the slopes necessary to weather future climate change and diminishing snowpack due to warmer winters. “We saw the writing on the wall,” said Timberline Lodge CEO, Tim Burr Lyin. “The only way to preserve a future for skiers and riders was to acquire higher elevation snow fields and glaciers. That inconvenient wilderness boundary was getting in the way.”

The move, heralded by both snowboarders and bedraggled ski-team parents, paves the way for the installation of a high-capacity gondola which will carry paying customers from the top of the Palmer Lift to the summit proper. “We feel like this land swap will give us the footprint that we need for both a lift station and a small restaurant. The great thing is that we don’t actually need to de-wilderness the area below the lift because the cables will be supported adequately by two one hundred foot towers at either end,” said Rebecca Rome, the spokesperson for BRB, an industrial building and contracting firm. The current plan allows for the aerial rights necessary to “fly over” this stretch of wilderness which is still untrammeled by humans.

Backcountry skiers and riders are mounting a furious protest and hope to overturn the decision. “We’ve become accustomed to mindlessly slogging up Otto Lang and Bean’s Run in the full sun of an April morning, but this is unconscionable. My unnecessarily dangerous ski off the hogsback will be ruined by day hikers from New Jersey,” said one particularly sun-burned splitboarder from Bend.

The coalition of objectors plans on having a community forum at the hot rocks on the first spring corn-snow day that they can get off from work.

The land swap had its origins in the summer of 2015 when forest managers and biologists realized that, due to rising temperatures, the literal timberline was actually changing. “We started to notice that there were trees higher in elevation than the actual Timberline Lodge,” said USFS spokesperson Richard Simone. “At first, our numbers didn’t make sense, but over time, we came to realize that the data that we were collecting was incontrovertible.” Initial plans were made to present a case before the U.S. Supreme Court involving a complex mathematical argument. Through some sloppy calculus, it was hoped to be shown that due to the concept of a limit and that the final slopes were actually a modulus of convergence, the true summit location was an abstract concept and not a physical reality.

This would therefore prove that the summit of Hood could not be subject to the Wilderness Act of 1964. Fortunately thirty-five days of government shutdown negated the need for rational argument or thoughtful consideration.

Timberline Enterprises has additional plans in the works. Realizing that the literal timberline is rising in elevation, ideas are in the works for how to realign the name of the lodge and its location relative to a bunch of trees. “We considered rebranding the whole operation Sub-Timberline Lodge,” said CEO Tim Lyin. “But given the cost of reprinting all of our office stationary, we decided to take more cost-effective measures.” Timberline Enterprises has retained the services of the firm that moved the Fairmont Hotel in San Antonio in 1985, which at the time set the Guinness World Record for largest building moved. “Our intention is to move Silcox Hut to the top of Palmer, and place Timberline Lodge on the hut’s original foundation. We haven’t spoken to the folks from Guinness yet, but think we have a possible record for largest W.P.A. project moved at altitude,” he said. “We feel it’s our civic duty to make sure that Timberline Lodge and the biological timberline are aligned just as the original building’s architect, Gilbert Stanley Underwood, intended,” said Lyin without a trace of irony in his voice.

The comment period for the public to weigh in this aspect of the plan ends on April 1. *Satire alert! Our friends at Timberline are actually hard at work on a new master plan and are seeking public input. Keep your ears open for more information on the input opportunities.

APRIL 2019 25

MAZAMA OUTINGS

Apply online at mazamas.org/outings

You can now apply for Mazama Outings on our website. Go to mazamas.org/outings to view all outings. When you apply, you will be prompted to complete your profile, and you’ll enter credit card information. If accepted, your credit card will be charged for the trip deposit, and you will then be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost. This invoice can be paid by credit card or check.

HIKING IN THE SAWTOOTHS AND WHITE CLOUDS: JULY 8–15 Just the names Sawtooth and White Clouds should be enough to entice any serious hiker. So join us for six “B” and “C” level hikes and enjoy spectacular mountain lakes, wildflowers, and the possibility of black bear, moose or mountain goats. Hikers should be experienced and comfortable at altitudes approaching 10,000 ft. Please include relevant hiking experience and activity history in your website profile for leaders to review. We will spend seven nights in fully furnished cabins located along the Salmon River approximately 20 miles east of Stanley, Idaho. Each cabin, which will be shared by only two people, includes a refrigerator, microwave, coffee maker, Dish TV and WiFi; some also include a stove.

Outing costs for Mazama members range from $768 to $722 for a group of 8 minimum to 12 maximum participants (including leaders); non-member costs range from $838 to $792. Participants are responsible for their own travel and food. Full payment for those accepted is due May 15, 2019.

Leaders: Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail. com and Sherry Bourdin sbourdin@reig.com.

SPANISH PYRENEES GR11 PART I (WEST): JULY 24–AUGUST 7 WASHINGTON OLYMPICS—ENCHANTED VALLEY BACKPACK: JUNE 20–26 We spend 6 days, 5 nights on trails in the beautiful and unique Olympic Forest, with optional side trip without backpacks up to view Home Sweet Home Meadows. We will continue past Lake LaCrosse, one of the best areas in the park to view wildlife and is surrounded by beautiful meadows and mountain views. This trip will include possible river fords and crossing of snow in high mountain basins. Exact conditions will be determined closer to the trip.

This is a strenuous backpack. Please make sure that you have experience on previous strenuous backpacks and are in shape for the distance and elevation gain. Lighter packs are advised. Pace will be slow to moderate.

The area has numerous black bears, so bear canisters are required. A few of the camps may have bear proof storage.

This area can be very wet, so participants must be prepared for wet conditions. This trip will include possible river fords and crossing of snow in high mountain basins. Exact conditions will be determined closer to the trip. Changes of itinerary are possible due to conditions of the trails.

Please contact leader Rex Breunsbach rbreunsbach@gmail.com 971-8322556 if you have any questions.

26 MAZAMAS

The Pyrenees are an amazing mountain system that acts as the natural border between Spain and France. GR11 (Grand Route or Gran Recorrido) is a trail of 522 miles that takes you from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean sea across these beautiful mountains. Over 12 days, we will hike around 90 miles of the first part of the GR11, starting in Puerto de Urkiaga and finishing in Canfranc. We will be sleeping in small villages, hostels, campground bungalows, and mountain refuges. We will enjoy the different landscapes that the Pyrenees offer from the lowest altitudes to the highest ones, including tons of amazing views (such as the Alanos Zuriza) and lots of mountain passes.

Outing costs of $1082 to $1,315 for a group of 10 or 8. Costs include lodging, outing fees, and two group meals. Trip overview meeting will be scheduled in May or June. Deposit of $200 will be charged upon acceptance. You will be sent an invoice for the remainder of the outing cost.

CLIMBING HIGH PEAKS IN THE WALLOWAS: AUGUST 16–25 Climb 7 to 10 of the 9,000 ft.+ mountains in northeast Oregon’s Wallowas, including Eagle Cap, Sacajawea Peak, and Oregon’s Matterhorn. We’ll start our five-day backpack with an assist from the Wallowa Lake Tramway, which will whisk us up 3,500 ft. to 8,000 ft. We will climb four mountains together, and then we will split into two teams when we approach the lake basin where group size is limited to six. When the backpack is over, we’ll offer a day hike and a day climb. All the climbing routes are rated A. Pre-requisites: Participants will need to be in good physical condition and have experience on at least one 50 mile (or greater) trek. Participants must also submit a résumé of successful climbs, including those that involved pack-ins to base camp. We will be traveling light and steady, up to 16 miles per day with daily elevation gains reaching as high as 4,000’ and most time spent at 7,000 ft. to 10,000 ft. of elevation. The terrain will be challenging with possible scree and brush in the off-trail portion, plus long daytime stretches without access to water.

The outing cost ranges from $204 to $314 for a group of 10 minimum to 12 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers four nights car-camping at Wallowa Lake State Park and an uphill ride on the Wallowa Lake Tramway. Travel to/from the Wallowas will be by carpool, which is not included in the cost.

A deposit of $100 for members or $200 for nonmembers will be required upon acceptance.

This outing is led by Mazama climb leaders Bill Stein and Eugene Lewins. Both have decades of climbing experience, but these mountain climbs will be exploratory for them. Contact Bill Stein (billstein.rpcv@gmail.com) if you would like additional information, or apply online. Make sure to include your successful backpacks and climbs in your online bio.

Folks interested in this outing are highly encouraged to attend an info night at Mazama Mountaineering Center, Tuesday, April 2 at 7 p.m. Applications for this outing begin April 3.

TREK AROUND GLACIER PEAK (WA): AUGUST 18–24 Join us as we hike around majestic Glacier Peak in Washington state. This 82.7 mile and 22,500 ft. net elevation gain trek circumnavigates Glacier Peak, largely on maintained trails. About half the distance will be on the Pacific Crest Trail and there will be a 5 mile off-trail/use-trail section during the hike. Glacier Peak Wilderness is a remote and rugged landscape with numerous passes and stream crossings along the way.

The outing cost ranges from $318 to $271 for a group of 6 minimum to 8 maximum participants (including leaders) and covers all trail fees and lodging costs. We will be carpooling to the trailhead and staying in a hotel the night before and after the trek.

A $100 deposit plus the Outing Fee ($10/day for members; $20/day for nonmembers) will be required upon acceptance.

Contact outing leader Gary Bishop (gbish90@hotmail.com) for more information.

APRIL 2019 27

ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS (AYM) Activities for those in their 20s & 30s or anyone young at heart.

FEATURED HIKE OF THE MONTH: SAT, APRIL 27: COTTONWOOD CANYON/GOOSENECK RIDGE LOOP

One of Oregon’s great adventures takes hikers up and over Cottonwood Canyon, where you will be greeted with views of the surrounding canyonlands, farms and wind turbines. It’s a long drive from Portland but this hike is worth it. We’ll make a mostly off-trail loop up and over Gooseneck Ridge on the west slopes of Cottonwood Canyon, before returning along the Pinnacles Trail that follows the John Day River. The off-trail part of this hike is mostly easy with one difficult spot in the middle where hikers must cross a steep ravine. Expect epic views, early spring wildflowers, wildlife and few people—but also bracing winds, steep slopes and a very long day. ▶▶ Hike: 8.8 miles, 1,800 ft. elevation gain. ▶▶ Drive: 240 miles round-trip. ▶▶ Cost: $2 for members, $4 for non-members. ▶▶ Location: Meet at Gateway Transit Center at 7:30 a.m. ▶▶ Leader: Matt Reeder

Adventurous Young Mazamas (and a few of their dogs!) after a hike to Pup Creek Falls

WANT TO BE FEATURED ON THE AYM INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT? TAG @AYMPDX IN YOUR PHOTOS OF MAZAMA ADVENTURES!

Check the website at mazamas.org/AYM and the AYM Meetup page frequently for the most up to date schedule. All trips are $2 for members/$4 for nonmembers unless otherwise noted.

MONTHLY EVENTS ▶▶AYM Committee Meeting: Monday, April 22, 6:30 p.m., MMC ▶▶Pub Night: Date TBD, check Meetup for details! ▶▶Climb Night: April 3 at 6 p.m., Planet Granite.

28 MAZAMAS

VOLUNTEER SPOTLIGHT

HEATHER POLONSKY ▶▶ Hometown? Technically Cherry Hill, NJ (Jersey side suburb of Philly), but after living in Philly for a good chunk of time post college, I identify more with the city itself than the suburb of my childhood. ▶▶ Years with the Mazamas? A few months! I’m a newbie, but super excited to be a part of this great organization. I’ve been hiking solo for years and figured this would be a great way to meet some hiking pals! ▶▶ Favorite trips that you’ve led? I’m very excited to lead more dog friendly hikes in general (all my hikes welcome pupticipants), but I’ve got some big ideas for a Dog Mountain excursion. I know that hike is super pupular, but there needs to be a "Dogs on Dog Mountain" hike. It will be pupapalooza! ▶▶ What is one thing that you always bring on a hike that is not one of the 10 essentials? 10 essentials? I thought it was 11 essentials? Is peanut butter not an official "essential"? ▶▶ Favorite Leader Treat? Cookies, especially chocolate chip or peanut butter. ▶▶ When you were a kid, what did you want to be when you grew up and why? In first grade I had big dreams of becoming a veterinarian. I had a subscription to ZooBooks and was up to date on all the animal literature. Then I found out I was allergic to cats and my world came crashing down on me. ▶▶ What is one surprising thing about yourself that people don’t usually know about you? I’m a very chatty and open person so most people find out a lot about me very quickly. That being said, I’ve found that people seem very interested in the fact that 1) I have never been to Taco Bell, and 2) I have a twin brother. ▶▶ People should sign up for a trip with you if....They have a furry friend that wants in on the fun or they don’t have a fur baby of their own, but want to be able to pretend they do for a day! All my hikes are dog friendly and I encourage hikers to bring pupticipants. My best bud Linus comes on all my hikes, so rest assured your fur baby will make at least one new friend.

APRIL 2019 29

BC EP 30 MAZAMAS

After a lot of planning and preparation, our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) is underway! A big thank you to the BCEP Committee, Mazama staff, and Climb Leaders for getting the 2019 class off the ground. This year there are 17 teams of students being led by experienced Mazama climb leaders and hundreds of excited and knowledgeable volunteers.

The passion for this program, for climbing education, and for spreading our love of the mountains is very apparent and I couldn’t be more proud to be a part of it.�

Amy Graham 2019 BCEP Committee Chairman

APRIL 2019 31

T

he 2019 Awards & Volunteer Recognition Evening: A Mazama Celebration returns on Wednesday, May 1. Join us at The Evergreen, 618 SE Alder Street, from 6–9 p.m. to enjoy an evening filled food, friends, and fun! Mazama Awards, including the Parker Cup, Hardesty Cup, 16 Peaks, Mazama Honorary Member, and many more will be awarded to their deserving recipients. There will be slideshows and stories celebrating Mazama volunteers, and postcards where you can write a note of thanks to a volunteer who has made a positive difference in your life. And of course, there will be plenty of time for you to socialize with your Mazama friends, and hopefully meet some new ones.

Get your tickets today at mazamas.org/mazamacelebration/ so we can accurately plan food and commemorative glasses!

32 MAZAMAS

MAY 1 6-9 P.M. THE EVERGREEN (618 SE ALDER)

EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS The Mazamas offers a robust Evening Travel Program from mid-October through April every year at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center. You’ll virtually travel to every corner of the globe as our dynamic speakers immerse you in their experience through photos, video, and great storytelling.

Programs are free and open to the general public. We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. View the entire season’s schedule at mazamas.org/eveningtravelprograms

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave, Portland, OR. Programs Start at 7 p.m.

OWYHEE RIVER JOURNAL, April 3 Bonnie Olin will show us what makes this region so unique, and what you can do to help preserve this remarkable landscape. The movie features a 2006 expedition into Deep Creek and the East Fork of the Owyhee. The slideshow features the entire river corridor from Nevada to the Owyhee Reservoir. The presentation will be followed by a question and answer period and book signing.

NEW HIKES IN THE CENTRAL OREGON CASCADES, April 10 Bill Sullivan takes us on a visual tour of new and little-known trails he is featuring in the new edition of his guidebook, New Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades , along with updates about the trails that have changed due to recent fires in the Mt. Jefferson and Three Sisters areas. Expect stunning, overlooked wildflower hikes, waterfall trails, and a secret hot springs, all in the area between Salem and Bend.

Thanks to everyone who made our 2018–19 Travel Program series a great success! Our 2019–20 series will begin in mid-October. We'll see you then!

APRIL 2019 33

WHAT’S IN MY PACK?

by Christopher Van Tilburg, MD

D

r. Van Tilburg, who lives in Hood River, specializes in wilderness, adventure travel, and outdoor recreation medicine. He works as an author, expert witness, public speaker, editor, and practicing physician in mountain, occupational and emergency medicine. He is the author of Mountain Rescue Doctor—Wilderness Medicine in the Extremes of Nature.

I’m in the mountains. Frequently. I work at Mount Hood Meadows, volunteer with Crag Rats Mountain Rescue, and work part-time as an international expedition leader. And I’m on the hill recreating all year long. I love being in the mountains and also like having a good margin of safety—all seasons. I like to travel light, but also plan for contingency. I have a number of backpacks. A rescue “ready pack” hangs in my mudroom, packed and ready for a rescue. I have a tiny 10-liter mountain running pack for summer. But my favorite is my ski mountaineering pack, or “skimo” for short. In the winter, my ski pack is in a perpetual state of being packed, or strewn about my mudroom drying. I take almost the same gear every trip in the mountains, partly because I’ve figured out a system that works for me and partly so I don’t have to think very much when packing. So, eliminating my technical rescue gear, here’s my skimo kit for recreational outings for spring and summer volcano climbs. Keep in mind this kit is generally for fair weather, one-day, nontechnical climbs of the Cascade volcanoes. You’ll notice there are three things I bring as a backup: headlamp, gloves, and puffy.

CLOTHING I’m a huge fan of the influx of European brands to the global outdoor scene. High tech fabrics are constructed into well-fitting garments with minimal accessories. Function, style, and lightweight often come with a higher price tag, but cost is amortized if you keep gear for a long duration. I am not sponsored by any companies, but I have listed a few brands as examples.

BOTTOMS ■■ Synthetic boxers ■■ Synthetic long underwear ■■ Soft shell pants like Mammut Base Jump or Tatramar □□ Waterproof shell pant with full side zips like Marmot Precip TOP ■■ Synthetic or wool long-sleeve zip-t or thin hooded long-sleeve sunshirt ■■ Lightweight fleece, full zip with a hood ■■ Thin uninsulated softshell windshirt like the Outdoor Research Ferrosi jacket (one of my favorite pieces of all time).

■■ Waterproof Gore-tex jacket like the Mammut Eigerwand ■■ Synthetic puffy, like the Rab Xenon Hoodie with Primaloft insulation, sized big enough to fit over all my clothes including hard shell. □□ Backup Puffy, down, for really cold alpine starts or as an emergency layer ACCESSORIES ■■ Buff/neck gaiter ■■ Fleece hat ■■ Medium weight wool-synthetic socks ■■ Helmet like the ultralight CAMP Speed or the more robustv Black Diamond Half Dome ■■ Goggles with storm lenses ■■ Sunglasses with yellow and dark lenses ■■ Lightweight gloves ■■ Backup gloves □□ Storm mittens 34 MAZAMAS

SKI GEAR ■■ You can make many different tools work: snowshoes, telemark skis, or a split snowboard. But alpine touring gear is the most versatile and my favorite.

■■ Skis with tech bindings with skins and poles. I like a one-ski quiver, so 97 mm underfoot seems to be the magical size for winter most of the time. For summer fun, I use a lighter 90 mm ski in shorter length. I use nylon-mohair skins because they are lighter and glide better than pure nylon. I use Dynafit tech binders on all my skis.

■■ Alpine touring ski boots: light enough to wear all day but not so light that my feet get cold or I have difficulty driving the ski on a technical descent. I am currently using the La Sportiva Spectre 2.0 with Intuition Pro Tour liners. □□ Self-arrest grip pole, like the Black Diamond Whippet □□ Ski crampons—on low-angle snow this is an excellent ascent tool GLACIER TRAVEL ■■ For nontechnical volcano climbs, I prefer going light. But, be advised that the light aluminum and carbon skimo gear might not be robust enough for ice and mixed climbing. You may need something burlier.

■■ Aluminum ice ax, Black Diamond Raven Pro. ■■ Aluminum full-frame crampons, Black Diamond Neve.

■■ Ski mountaineering harness, the Black Diamond Couloir ■■ Basic crevasse rescue kit: set of prussics, a sling, three locking carabiners, 5-meter webbing, cordlette, pulley, micro8, and a 30-meter-long 8-mm glacier-travel rope. □□ Picket. Since I’m bringing skis, I usually don’t bring a picket. □□ Ice screw. If I’m skiing, I rarely need an ice screw but if the snow is too firm for a ski anchor, this is a good, sometimes mandatory, option.

■■ ALWAYS

□□ OPTIONAL

MAZAMA LODGE Lodge Musings & Happenings

by Charles Barker, Mazama Lodge Manager Mazama Lodge snowfall has historically reached its maximum snow depth on April 1. We are closing in on nearly 7 feet of of snow around the the lodge this season with another two weeks to go. You can expect the ski areas and Westleg Road to be snow-covered well into May this year.

Our first wedding of the 2019 is Forest and Kelsey scheduled on Saturday, May 18. Their plan is to ski from the top of Mazama Hill to the lodge, and it looks like we will have plenty of snow for them.

Our last weekend of the Basic Climbing Education Program at the Lodge is April 6. The following weekend, April 12–15 is currently very light on reservations. At the moment we only have two guests staying at the lodge each of those nights. If you are looking for a quiet weekend to use the lodge and get some spring skiing in, this looks like a great weekend to come up.

Thank you Mark Seker who hosted this year's Winter Family Festival. We had nearly 60 participants who persevered through the major winter storm the night before. A huge thank you to Will and Jenn who served up an authentic Bavarian Banquet!

AVALANCHE GEAR In winter I use an airbag pack: this year I used the Black Diamond Jetforce Tour 26. But in spring and summer, when conditions are stable and I need to carry more gear, I like the larger mountaineering-style pack, the CAMP M3. I always carry a beacon, shovel and probe too.

MISCELLANEOUS ■■ skin wax ■■ chemical hand warmers ■■ sunscreen + lip balm ■■ Headlamp + extra batteries ■■ Backup headlamp ■■ cell phone with GAIA GPS app ■■ Map and compass (by way of cell phone) ■■ A small repair/survival/medical kit: wire, steel wool, a binding screw, cord, zip ties, electrical tape, and a small binding tool. For longer trips, I sometimes add epoxy and hose clamps to repair binders, at least two polyurethane ski straps, wind- and waterproof matches/lighter, medical and/or paper tape.

■■ Food and water ■■ Tarp or bivy sack

Photo: Charles Barker

TRANSITION TEAM UPDATE

by Marty Scott, Mazama Vice President It’s been another busy time for the transition team as we continue the work necessary to find our next executive director. Last month we reported that we had requested proposals from four executive search firms and received proposals from two of the four. We expected to interview those two firms and select a firm from one of the two. Unfortunately one of the two firms withdrew their proposal due to a potential conflict so the transition team requested proposals from three additional firms, all of whom submitted proposals. The team did followup interviews with three of the seven firms. We are now in the process of checking references on the finalists and by the time members receive their April Bulletin we expect to have selected a firm to partner with on the search.

Once we select a firm and complete contract negotiations, the lead consultant will begin working with the transition committee, Executive Council, staff and Mazamas stakeholders to identify desired qualifications, and characteristics for our next executive director.

If you have comments or questions regarding the transition, please email the transition committee at transition@mazamas.org.

TRAIL TRIPS JOIN US! MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS ARE OPEN TO EVERYONE Contact Trail Trips trailtrips@mazamas.org with any questions. Hike leaders, to schedule a hike next month, go to: mazamas.org, login, and schedule.

UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED, ALL HIKES LISTED BELOW ARE AVAILABLE FOR SIGNUP ON OUR WEBSITE! HEAD ON OVER TO MAZAMAS.ORG/HIKING TO GET MORE DETAILS. FIND THE HIKE YOU WANT TO GO ON, CLICK ON THE LINK, AND FOLLOW THE SIGNUP PROMPTS. HK A1.5 April 2 Mitchell Point Flora Huber flobell17@comcast.net.

Outstanding Gorge views up and down river, wildflowers. 2.2 miles round trip, 1040 ft. gain. Drive 110 miles. Meet MMC 9 a.m.

HK B1.5 April 3 Kings Mountain Tony Spiering, aespiering@gmail.com.

Good basic hike for some early spring conditioning. Nice views at the summit if weather is clear. 5 miles, 2,500 ft. Meet at Target/185th at 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 3 Mosier Tunnels Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@teleport. com. When the Columbia River Highway was built through this area in 1921, it was necessary to build two tunnels to get through a high rock point. The tunnels, with their windows affording views over the river, were a highlight of any road trip to the Gorge: they were inspired by the design of the Axenstrasse, on Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. 8 miles. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 6 Nestucca Spit –Beach Walk Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@teleport. com. Pleasant 5-6 mile beach hike around Nestucca spit. Lots of fresh air, wildlife and birds. We will meet at the Pelican Brewery parking lot at 33180 Cape Kiwanda Dr, Pacific City, 9 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 ft. elevation gain Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 ft. elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance or 3,000+ ft. elevation gain.

Class D: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contacting leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory.

“Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12.

36 MAZAMAS

HK B2 April 6 AYM: Hardy Ridge, Dog Friendly Heather Polonsky heather. polonsky@gmail.com Join us for a fun (DOG FRIENDLY) hike to Hardy Ridge! It's going to be a Hardy Ridge Hiking Hoopla! Unique gorge views without the crowds of the more popular hikes routes! This loop trail takes us up to the Hardy Ridge summit where we’ll get some nice, but different gorge views! Pupticipants are welcome, but out of respect to other hikers we are limiting the number of doggos to 4. Please indicate when you register if you plan to bring your pup by emailing Heather . All pup-ticipants must be well behaved and get along with other puppers. Any participant who attempts to bring a dog who does not indicate to us by email that they will be bringing a dog will not be permitted on the hike. 8 miles, 2,200 ft. of elevation gain. Meet: MMC at 8:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 6 Latourell Falls.

James Selby, selbyjb@comcast.net. After doing a 3 mile Latourell hike we will go to Bridal Veil for a quick 1.5 mile hike, then to Vista House for some views and finally to the Women's Forum site for the views. 4.5 miles. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8 a.m.

Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner.

Hike fees/Snowshoe/Nordic Costs: $2 for members, $4 nonmembers; Backpack Costs: Vary depending on trip.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L and C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry

If you prefer to sign up in person, contact the leader and let them know you plan to attend. They can give you any additional details that you will need about the hike.

HK B2 April 7 Indian Point Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. The Nick Eaton Indian Point loop covers some of the most fire-affected areas that reopened to the public in late 2018.

This means open views of the Columbia Gorge a good chunk of the hike instead of just at our lunch point. 8.9 miles, 2,900 ft. Meet at Gateway at 7 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 9 Dry Creek Falls Flora Huber flobell17@comcast.net.

Enjoy a small part of the PCT starting at the Bridge of the Gods Trailhead to a 50 ft. waterfall. Gentle hike on historic trail.

5.4 mile loop, 700 ft. Meet MMC 9 a.m.

HK B2 April 10 Bald Butte Rex Breunsbach breunsba@teleport. com. Above Hood River, with open meadows and wooded forest, this hike unique hike offers near continuous views of Mt. Hood and the Hood River Valley. Mileage: 8.4 Elevation Gain: 2,300 ft. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 10 Hardy Ridge, West Ridge Larry Solomon, muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Great loop trail climbing along the ridge above Hardy Creek to Phlox Point where we will have lunch.

Discover Pass for drivers. 7 miles, 2,100 ft. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center to carpool, 8 a.m.

and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC– Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage.–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPark–Snow park pass. FLTC–3510 SE 164th Ave. in Vancouver.

99th TC–9700 NE 7th Ave. in Vancouver.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes, and

carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike.

Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.

HK B2 April 14 Wygant Peak Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@teleport.com.

Eastern gorge hike to a secluded summit of 8.5 miles, 2,100 ft. of elevation gain. Some early leafing poison oak may be present.

Meet at Gateway 8 a.m., Drive 120 miles.

HK B2 April 14 Coyote Wall & The Labyrinth Bill Stein, billstein.rpcv@gmail.com. Flower season on one of the most dramatic hikes in the eastern Gorge. Long pants tucked into socks or gaiters are recommended, as this is tick and poison oak country. Bring something to take photos! 8.2 miles, 1,775 ft.

Meet at Gateway at 7 a.m..

HK B1.5 April 15 Circle Twin Lakes Hike David Christopher, david.r.christopher@ gmail.com. We will hike past the Lower Twin and the Upper Twin Lake then continue up to Palmateer Point, where we will stop for lunch and enjoy views of Mt. Hood, if it is good weather. If only okay weather, i.e. light rain or possibility of it, we won't sit at the point in the rain and eat, but along the trail. Feel free to bring a cup and extra water, since I will have a stove for lunch coffee, tea or soup. After our lunch break, we will continue to the PCT and return to the trailhead. Our pace is steady and gentle.

My whole point in being out is to share the experience with others and enjoy the sounds and sights that nature provides. 7–8 miles, 1,000 ft. of elevation. Meet at Frog Lake Snopark lot. Arrive by 9:15 a.m. and depart on the Twin Lakes trail at 9:30 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 16 Devil’s Rest from Larch Mountain Rd Flora Huber flobell17@ comcast.net. Go to elevation without all the effort. Wonderful Gorge views. 5 miles, 200 ft. Meet MMC at 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 16 Whipple Creek Dog Hike Don McCoy, donald1020@aol.com. Whipple Creek is a Clark County Park located west of the Clark County Fairgrounds. It has wide trails which allow hikers, bikers, horses, and dogs on a leash. Meet at the trailhead and prepare for wet weather. Bring towels and prepare for wet dogs. Ridgfield, WA. 4.8 miles, with elevation gain of 300 ft. Meet at the trailhead (17202 NW 21st Ave.) at 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 17 Lyle Cherry Orchard a La Mode Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@ teleport.com. This hike offers ever expanding views to the east and west as it climbs to the oak forest that cloaks the upper slopes. Poison oak abounds along most sections of the trail, so stick to path and keep your dog on a leash. The wildflower season here begins in February with the early grass widows and Columbia desert parsley and runs into June. Mileage: 6.5 Elevation Gain: 1,400 ft. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m.

HK A2 April 19 Larch Mountain Crater Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@teleport.com.

This is a loop hike. We will drive up to the gate on Larch Mountain road, descend into the crater then up to Sherrard point, then back to the cars. Poles and microspikes highly recommended. Mileage: 6.4, elevation gain: 1,300 ft. Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m.

HK B2 April 20 Swale Canyon along the Klickitat Trail Brett Nair brett.nair@gmail. com This section of the Klickitat Trail breaks away from the Klickitat River and the road and follows Swale Creek. Near mile 2, the route starts its descent into Swale Canyon, a remote gorge punctuated with volcanic rock outcroppings and vibrant Columbia desert parsley. Cross three railroad trestles in the next 1.5 miles and continue heading west.

After 4.5 miles, the route swings to the north for the final 0.6 mile to a waterfront lunch spot along Swale Creek. Savor views of the creek's chutes, waterfalls, and small pools. We should see plenty of wildflowers. 12.4 miles; 980 ft. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 April 21 Larch Mountain Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com An old favorite conditioning hike from Multnomah Falls, now featuring lots of open views courtesy of the Eagle Creek fire. If the sky is clear, we'll have a terrific view from Sherrard Point. If you haven’t done this hike in a while, you’re in for a treat. 13.8 miles, 4,100 ft. Meet at Gateway at 6:30 a.m.

HK B2 April 24 Dog Mountain Rex L Breunsbach breunsba@teleport.com Let's look for some early flowers and warm weather. Mileage: 7.2 Elevation Gain: 2900 Meet: MMC Parking Lot, 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 April 25 Hamilton Mountain Flora Huber flobell17@comcast.net. 2 large waterfalls with views of Bonneville Dam from the top. 7.6 miles 2,000 ft. Meet MMC 9 a.m.

HK B2 April 28 Criterion Ranch William O'Brien wobobr123@yahoo.com This beautiful spring hike takes us to central Oregon on BLM land near Maupin. It offers beautiful views of the Deschutes River canyon as well as a nice wildflower display and panoramic views of central Oregon. It is a long drive so plan on a long day, 250 miles RT. The hike is 11 miles out and back with 1,400 ft. elevation gain. This is tick country so wear pants and bring sunglasses, hat with visor and sunscreen. Meet: Gateway Park & Ride, 7 a.m.

HK B2 April 28 Larch Mountain (WA)— from Yacolt Burn Trailhead Rex Breunsbach, breunsba@teleport.com.

Not the one in the gorge, this Larch Mountain is in Washington, near Silver Star Mountain.

We will hike to high viewpoint. 10 miles, with 2,300 ft. of elevation gain. Meet at MMC, Drive 100 miles.

HK C2.5 May 5 Table Mountain–long way Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@gmail.com This is a very strenuous hike! No one is welcome who can’t handle up, down, up, down over a very long day of fast hiking. We will start from the Bonneville Trailhead, the nearest open trailhead to Table Mountain, which means we have to traverse a landslide zone before approaching the boulders of Heartbreak Ridge. In your Mazama profile, please name the hikes you’ve done so far in 2019, plus your conditioning and typical hiking speed. The new stats on this hike are 16 miles and 3,800 ft. of ascent. Gateway at 6 a.m. Must signup online.

HK A1.5 May 6 Upper Salmon River Hike David Christopher david.r.christopher@ gmail.com We will have lunch at and return from the rock outcrop overlooking the Salmon River valley and waterfall. I will have a stove, so bring your cup, extra water and coffee, tea or soup for a warm lunch drink.

I recommend bringing traction spikes. If it is heavy rain, the hike will be cancelled, so please check your email or send me an email which will be answered before 8 a.m. the hike day. Our pace is steady and gentle. My whole point in being out is to share the experience with others and enjoy the sounds and sights that nature provides. Two books you might want to read before hiking on this beautiful trail: The Hidden Life of Trees by Peter Wohlleben, and The Tree by John Fowles. 7.2 miles. 950 ft. of elevation gain. Meet at the Upper Salmon River trailhead parking at 9:15 a.m. and depart at 9:30 a.m.

HK B2 May 8 Henline Mountain & Falls Larry Solomon, muensterhump@hotmail. com. Climb lots of switchbacks to an old lookout tower site atop a rocky ridge. Enjoy views of Mt. Jefferson, Battle Ax, and Nasty Rock. We will have lunch at the lookout site before climbing further to the summit. 5.6 miles with 2,200 ft. gain to the lookout site; 7.8 miles with 2,700 ft. to the summit. Meet at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 7:30 a.m.

READY TO SIGNUP ONLINE? Go to mazamas.org/gettingstarted to learn how to create your account. It’s simple, and should take no more than 5 minutes to get up and running.

Please review the information at mazamas.org/gettingstarted carefully before creating your account. If you still have questions after reading the information, email us at help@ mazamas.org.

APRIL 2019 37

THIS MONTH IN EXECUTIVE COUNCIL (MAZAMA BOARD OF DIRECTORS) The next board meeting date is on Tuesday, April 16. All meetings begin at 4 p.m. and are open to all members. There is a member comment period at 5:30 p.m. This summary has been approved by the Mazama President or Vice President for publication. Members can access full meeting minutes one month after the meeting by sending an email to adventure@mazamas.org and making a request.

by Mathew Brock, Library & Historical Collections Manager President Laura Pigion called the Executive Council (EC) meeting to order at 4 p.m. on Tuesday, March 19. Following approval of the agenda, Secretary Laura Guderyahn received approval for the February minutes. Laura also noted that membership, as of the end of February, stands at 3,336. Treasurer Traci Manning gave an overview of the January financials.

Total operating revenue was $455,312 with operating expenses of $648,541. Assets were $604,098. Both income and expenses are tracking under budget.

In her Acting Executive Director Report, Sarah Bradham gave a brief update on staffing and upcoming events. Justin Rotherham’s last day in the office was March 15. He will continue working under contract on the ALA climb project through early June. Claire Nelson is back from maternity leave, and Mathew Brock is on vacation until March 25. In upcoming events, the Annual Celebration & Volunteer Recognition event will be Wednesday, May 1. To celebrate the Mazamas' 125th Anniversary a weekend of activities are planned for July 19–21, and a 125th Anniversary Block Party at the MMC is planned July 28.

In internal reporting, Sarah recapped a recent meeting with the Mazamas Foundation, and the work is in progress to build a communication plan to share information with the membership. With Justin Rotherham’s departure, the Education and Activities Department is currently unstaffed. Sarah is working with the board to evaluate our needs within the short and long term to understand what new staff positions look like for this department.

Adventure WILD registrations are going strong and day camps are almost full.

Membership is on track for 2019, and we are on target to meet our March target.

Enhancements to the IT system will bring several desired improvements to the website. Financial are on track, and the annual audit is ahead of schedule. Sarah ended her internal report by noting that there have been two behavioral incidents this quarter.

38 MAZAMAS

In external reporting, Sarah expects a decision by April 1 on the Central Cascades Permit plan. She will travel to Bend to take part in the Outdoor Recreation Summit on May 13 and 14. Oregon Outdoors recently held a strategic planning session to plan how to make sure the coalition is revenue neutral. Outdoor Alliance will hold a quarterly board meeting in Washington D.C. in May and Sarah will attend per our agreement with the alliance.

Erica Stock, Mazama Development Director, gave an update on fundraising and membership. Individual donations continue to track upward. To date for our current fiscal year, we have secured $136,633 in donations. Short term fundraising will focus on the Mazamas 125th Anniversary. Erica is working on several grant applications and status reports that are due by early April.

We are on target to achieve our membership revenue targets for 2019. Erica ended her report by noting updates to new member packets to include compelling language that reinforces the philanthropic value of Mazamas membership.

Vice President Marty Scott gave an update on the Executive Director transition planning. The board is in the process of hiring a search firm that will begin a four stage process. The first stage includes interviews with stakeholders to identify criteria and key competencies of an ideal candidate. Then the sourcing and screening process will focus on targeted advertising.

The board will review high ranking candidates, and interviews will follow. The consultant will manage the final offer and acceptance process.

Sarah then presented a draft plan to rebalance existing priorities. We are currently starting year two of an aggressive three-year strategic plan. In the last four months, we have seen significant change in our staff, which has led to us being currently underresourced to meet our strategic goals. The organization is also dealing with fundraising challenges due to concurrent fundraising projects, such as the lodge renovation and general fund. Sarah

stressed that while there is a large amount of transition within the organization, it is an excellent time to pause and reset. The board has an opportunity to reassess our organizational structure, staffing plan, and strategic projects. The goal is to ensure the Mazamas continue to reap the benefits of the investments made to grow our capacity and impact over the long term. It is rare to have this type of opportunity, and we should take advantage of it.

As a first step, Sarah recommends renegotiating with the Foundation for new timelines and deliverables. Sarah asked that several board members commit to an 18-month project to identify and assist with managing culture change within the organization. The board and staff need to draw clear distinctions between staff and volunteer roles while also recognizing if a position needs to be staff with a new hire or can be filled by a short term contractor.

Sarah reiterated the need to invest in the necessary infrastructure of the organization but also the need to plug holes and move quickly. Sarah then presented a 30-60-90 day plan that lays out priorities for staffing and revised strategic projects.

Matt Sundling chose to speak during the member comment period. As the chair of the Climbing Committee he is confronting several questions he can not answer, including a lack of clarity about roles and responsibilities between staff and volunteers. Matt stressed that the permitting and national standards projects are vital to the Mazamas and he doesn’t want those projects to fizzle following Justin’s departure.

He ended by noting that the Climbing Committee doesn’t know what the board expects of them and asked for direction.

The next Executive Council meeting is Tuesday, April 16 at 4 p.m..

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