THE FUTURE OF SMITH ROCK

by Alan Watts

The rise of Smith Rock from an unknown state park to a world renowned destination surely ranks among the most unlikely stories in the annals of American climbing. From the humble origins of reaching the summits, to the birth of US sport climbing with the hardest routes in the nation, no one could have predicted the story of Smith Rock.

Born and raised just 20 miles from Smith, fate provided me with the unique opportunity to respond to the calling of this amazing place; I’ve spent the better part of my life doing just that. I’ve been lucky enough to have a front row seat to watch Smith history unfold; for a time, I was on the stage myself.

The story of the past has been told countless times, but what might the future hold?

Like so many of our beloved outdoor spaces, the sheer popularity of Smith Rock is the biggest obstacle facing future generations. I believe that the best approach isn’t limiting access through a permit system, but instead expanding access with new bridges and trails leading users to less trampled regions of Smith Rock. Fortunately, this is the exact approach Oregon State Parks proposes with their newly completed master plan.

On the busiest days, Smith might seem hopelessly overcrowded. But the reality is that people tend to flock together, climbing the same routes and hiking the same trails, while ignoring everything else. As long as everyone approaches across the same bridge, hiking Misery Ridge or climbing only in the main area, the overcrowding problem will only get worse. The key is to provide multiple access points, leading to less used sections of the park and BLM land, for both hikers and climbers. Brilliant climbing and spectacular terrain aren’t limited to Smith’s main area. The full development of climbing in the Monument Area, the Marsupial Crags, and the Zoo (with roughly 500 new routes) has already provided worthy options for climbers unwilling to follow the herd.

The newly reworked master plan proposes two new bridges (below the Monument and near the Phoenix Buttress) that will ease pressure, providing new access to more routes and trails. An improved trail system along the rim, centered around a new 3,000 sq. foot visitors center, will persuade many sightseers to avoid the strenuous hike into the canyon.

Will Smith Rock climbing once again rise to the highest levels of the sport, with the hardest routes in the country established by new generations? Likely not. The nature of the rock – especially the lack of severely overhanging walls – limits the potential. But it’s only a matter of time before current standards rise again, with several 5.15 projects awaiting first ascents.

After the past decade saw unprecedented growth (with more than 800 new routes) it’s likely that the coming decades will see only a fraction of this development—at least in part due to a bolting approval process. But remarkable expanses of untouched stone still remain. With the most popular regions of Smith already fully developed, future lines shouldn’t be crammed in between existing routes. Some might argue that Smith already has more than enough routes, but my belief is that quality new lines, on less developed crags, only alleviate pressure on the most crowded areas.

My hope is that the park will continue to expand, through acquisitions and land donations. The most recent acquisition was a significant part of the Lower Gorge, featuring Smith’s best trad routes. Most desirable is the land across the river west of the state park, with views every bit as magnificent as anywhere at Smith. Today, this land is the exclusive domain of private landowners, but perhaps some generous benefactor might someday open these remarkable vistas to the public.

One thing is certain—Smith climbing won’t fade away. The rich history, quality of the routes, and the magnificence of the setting ensure Smith will forever attract climbers from around the world.