Mazama Annual by Mazamas

Volume XCIII, Number 13

Mazama

2011

MAZAMA The Annual Journal of the Mazamas

Vol. XCIII, No. 13 • December 2011

Dawn on Mt. Ararat.

Photo: Dave Ellison

Nesika Klatawa Sahale Chinook Jargon for “We Climb High”

MISSION

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments. VISION

Everyone enjoying and protecting the mountains. VALUES Safety–As Mazamas, we believe safety is our primary respon-

sibility in all education and outdoor activities. Training, risk management and incident reporting are critical supporting elements. Education–As Mazamas, we believe training, experience and skills development are fundamental to preparedness, enjoyment and safety in the mountains. Studying, seeking and sharing knowledge leads to an increased understanding of mountain environments.

Volunteerism–As Mazamas, we believe volunteers are the

driving force in everything we do. Teamwork, collaboration and generosity of spirit are the essence of who we are. Community–As Mazamas, we believe camaraderie, friendship and fun are integral to everything we do. We welcome the participation of all people and collaborate with those who share our goals. Competence–As Mazamas, we believe all leaders, committee members, staff, volunteers and participants should possess the knowledge, skills, abilities and judgment required of their roles. Credibility–As Mazamas, we believe we are trusted by the community in mountaineering matters. We are relied upon for information based on best practices and experience. Stewardship–As Mazamas, we believe in conserving the mountain environment. We protect our history and archives and sustain a healthy organization. © Mazamas® 2011. All rights reserved. 527 SE 43rd, Portland, OR 97215

Table of Contents

MAZAMA Editors: Anna Browne, Rick Craycraft, Meg Goldberg, Jack Grauer, Barry Maletzky, David Stein, Diana Schweitzer, Natalie Wessel Photo Editors: Bob Breivogel, Andrea Holman, Al Papesh Layout and Design: Sarah Bradham

2010–2011 Executive Council George Cummings, president Matt Carter, vice president Sarah Lewins, secretary Tom Bard, treasurer Doug Couch Billie Goodwin Helen Hanson Bill McLoughlin Paul Steger

Front cover: The climbing team takes a breather before taking the last few steps to the summit of 6189 m/20,305 ft. Imja Tse, in the spectacular Khumbu Region of the Nepal Himalaya. Photo: Mark Koss Inside Front Cover: Mazama Ryan Cupp climbs through the icy crux of the Mazama Chute on Mt. Hood. Photo: Andrew Holman

President’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

George Cummings

Feature Articles First Ascent: East Arete of Burkett Needle, Coast Mountain Range (Stikine Icecap), Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

John Frieh Shasta Icefall: Mini-Epic on Shasta’s Whitney Glacier . . . . . . . 6 Kristin Hessick A Century of Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Richard Getgen The Cirque of the Unclimbables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Ryan Christie Over 17,000 Feet…Are You Kidding? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Ellen Gradison A Young Mazama’s Idea of a Mt. Hood Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Gary Snyder My Minor Himalayan Experience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Suresh Singh New Routes: Dome and South Gunsight Peaks . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Jason Schilling Fire on the Mazama Trail: A Savior in the Wilderness . . . . . . 25 Rick Pope The Mountaineer’s Route on Mt. Whitney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Larry Beck First Ascent in Africa on the Way to the Roof of the Continent: Lava Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Ryan Christie A Look Back at Women’s Climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 C. H. Sholes Landscape Context and Long-term Tree Influences . . . . . . . . 34 Ryan D. Haugo, Charles B. Halpern, & Jonathon D. Bakker The Mazamas’ First Outing to Thailand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Kate Evans Annual Reports Outings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Mazama 2011 Awards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Committee Reports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Inside Back Cover: Heading east towards Wahkeena Falls on the Devil’s Rest Loop. Photo: Bob Breivogel

Fiscal Year 2010-2011 Consolidated Budget Report . . . . . . . . . . 61

Back cover: Andrew Holman jumps for joy after finally making it to the Summit of Mt. Hood before sunrise (7:06 a.m. 12/4/2011). Photo by Andrew Holman with assistance from D’nita Carbone)

Mazama Membership Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Executive Director’s Report . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 The Mazama Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Official Mazama Climbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Official Mazama Trail Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 In Memoriam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

President’s Report by George Cummings

During this past year as president and my two prior years on the Executive Council, I have often thought about what makes the Mazamas such a successful organization. What enables us to provide thousands of participants with an excellent mountaineering education and hundreds of climbs, hikes, outings and supporting activities? How do we maintain two fine facilities, our center in Portland and our lodge on Mount Hood? And how do we do all that year after year in a financially sound way? There are, I think, three essential elements to our success: enthusiastic volunteers, a dedicated staff and financially generous members. Without full support from any of these elements, the others cannot be wholly successful. Hundreds of volunteers give their ideas and provide tens of thousands of hours of work to the Mazamas each year. Without volunteers, there would be no classes, no climbs, no hikes, no outings, no activities of any sort. Without volunteers, we would not have a library, publications or Wednesday evening programs, and we could not operate the lodge or support conservation and research. Every function of the Mazamas is touched by, and dependent upon, the efforts of those who support us by volunteering. Our staff is small, just two full-time employees. Lee Davis, who was our member services manager, recently replaced Peggie Schwarz as executive director, and Eric Mayhew took Lee’s position. As executive director, Lee is responsible for implementing policies as determined by the Executive Council and also for protecting the property and interests of the Mazamas. His duties include managing day-to-day operations, fundraising, planning, community relations, the staff, independent contractors and the budget. He works with the council and committees to implement the strategic plan and to establish and assure adherence to operating policies and procedures. He provides administrative support and professional advice to the council. As member services manager, Eric works with the executive director to meet the needs of Mazama members. He manages the pool of office volunteers and day-to-day finances and also works with our accountant. The staff ’s responsibilities cover all aspects of our organization’s function and welfare. The Mazamas operates with a budget that is balanced each year. Income from member services, activities, classes and the lodge is not enough to balance the budget. To do that, we depend on the continuing interest of long-time, dues-paying members, the generosity of members who make additional donations and bequests, and contributions from the Mazama Foundation, which is funded by members. Among the many successes of the Mazamas this year, I want to mention three that have a significant long-term effect on us: the change in staff, newly enforced wilderness regulations and the creation and implementation of the strategic plan. In July when Peggie Schwarz resigned, the Mazamas was immediately faced with the need to find her replacement as executive director.

Various strategies were considered but it soon became apparent that we already had a well-qualified employee who was respected and supported by the membership. Lee Davis was an active climber and leader who had been a Mazama for 11 years. He had worked under Peggie as member services manager for five years and was thoroughly familiar with our operating procedures and activities. And he was ready to step up. The council quickly decided that there was no need to search further and Lee officially became executive director in September. His first task was to find his own replacement. He soon found Eric Mayhew, a member since 2009, a climber and a graduate of and subsequently an instructor in several Mazama climbing classes. Eric has a strong background in business and personnel management. He began work in October. We are very fortunate that the staff transition was quick and smooth. The Mazamas operates under two permits issued by the U.S. Forest Service that cover our activities in Mount Hood National Forest. During the permit renewal process this year, we were told that our activities in wilderness areas within the forest must strictly adhere to usage regulations. Wilderness expansion near Timberline Lodge and in the Columbia Gorge severely affected ICS snow practice sessions and BCEP conditioning hikes. Peggie Schwarz spent many weeks consulting and negotiating with the staff of Mount Hood National Forest to clarify what we could and could not do in these wilderness areas. The 2009-2010 Executive Council decided to review the existing strategic plan, and it soon became evident that we needed a new plan to guide us during the next five years. A Strategic Planning Task Force was organized that broadly represented the Mazama community. Over the course of a year, the task force met with every committee and surveyed the membership to identify the Mazamas’ core values and to develop mission and vision statements and a plan that sets goals for the council, committees and staff. Each of nine topics is divided into goals, outcomes and strategies. Throughout the coming years, the plan will be updated as needed. Finally, on behalf of the Mazamas, I want to thank Peggie Schwarz for her seven years of dedication to the welfare of the Mazamas. We wish her success and happiness in her new position at Hoyt Arboretum Friends. Personally, I am grateful to her for the background information on issues and thoughtful counsel she gave me during my term in office. 

Feature Articles First Ascent East Arete of Burkett Needle, Coast Mountain Range (Stikine Icecap), Alaska by John Frieh Note: This climb was partially funded by the Mazama Expedition Committee

Details: The Burkett Needle is a beautiful 2,500 foot alpine spire that stands like a granite rocket ship surrounded by a ring of broken glaciers and protected by gnarly weather. It lies in the center of the Stikine Ice Cap and is a part of the much larger Coast Mountain Range, which stretches from southwestern Yukon through the Alaska Panhandle and down nearly all of the coast of British Columbia. In the 47 years since its first ascent, the peak had held off all but five parties from its summit; Dave Burdick and I became the fifth party in 2009. My story of Burkett Needle starts without me. Like many ranges are often measured in months, require days or weeks climbs, it indirectly starts with the incorrigible Fred Beckey. in base camp waiting for adequate weather and conditions, Sometime in 2006, Fred pulled a xeroxed copy of a photo of and finally, (hopefully) include a chance to go climbing in an the Burkett Needle out of a FedEx envelop and dangled it in adventurous setting so spectacular that it makes it all worthfront of my good friend Dave Burdick’s face. Objectives were while. In many of these ranges there is a time of year when picked, plans were made and in the summer of 2006, Dave, some good weather can be reasonably expected: Nepal in the Fred and Micah Lambeth set their sights on the unclimbed spring, Denali in June and the Canadian Rockies in August. West Ridge of Mt. Burkett. Unfortunately, the weather got But then there are places with no predictable weather patterns, the better of their trip. Fortunately for me, the hook was set such as Argentine Patagonia and the Stikine Icecap in southand in 2008 Dave pitched the West Ridge to me, which I of east Alaska. These areas, which lay directly in the path of the course immediately agreed to. We spent that entire summer Gulf Stream, require either a high tolerance for waiting or the waiting for a weather window that never materialized. I forgot willingness to “smash and grab,” as Dieter had labeled it. about the Needle after that summer of waiting. Dave, however, I know what you’re thinking: just how bad are we talking? did not, and in 2009, out of the blue, he called me up on the Bugaboos bad? Patagonia bad? To put it in perspective, people Tuesday before the 4th of July weekend. Three days later, we often complain that in Seattle or Portland it rains all the were Alaska-bound. time. Seattle and Portland average approximately 36 inches of Soon thereafter, taking just three days, Dave and I made the first ascent of the West Ridge of Burkett Needle. It only took two years (three for Dave), but we had pulled it off! The trip was a success in two ways. First, we were successful on the West Ridge. Our quick in-and-out turnaround style of ascent prompted the local climbing guru and Stikine Icecap manager Dieter Klose to label it a “smash and grab” ascent. We, of course, had to name the route after this. The other essential element of success was that I was absolutely sold on the Stikine as a destination, especially considering I could leave Portland at 7 a.m. and be on the glacier by lunchtime. Access is that good if, and only if, the weather cooperates. As most would agree, expedition John Frieh following one of the mixed pitches high on the arete. The viewer can see the knife edge appearance of the arete. Photo: Zac West climbing and trips to the greater

rain a year. Petersburg, Alaska, a 30-minute helicopter flight from the Burkett Needle, averages 110 inches a year. You do the math on how much it rains there compared to Portland. The upside of the poor weather in the Stikine, and a large part of the reason I am writing this article, is that a number of unclimbed lines exist that likely would have been climbed years ago except for the fact that the weather has spoiled most attempts. Enough of the background; the rest of the story is about the first ascent of the East Arête of Burkett Needle. Dave and I recruited Seattle climber Zac West to join us on this trip. We trained hard all spring and prowled the forecast models for any hint of a weakness. The summer passed without a window. I was worried it would be a repeat of the 2008 summer. By the time September arrived, I had more or less given up hope for a The south/ southeast face of Burkett Needle as seen from the glacier. The East Arete window when, out of the blue (or more accu- is marked in the photo. The team ascended up through the broken glacier to the col rately in this case, out of the wet and cold), where they bivied due to bad weather and then continued to the summit the following Photo: Dave Burdick two completely solid days of good weather morning. appeared on the radar. Finally it was go time. On September 9, Dave, Zac, and I departed Seattle and were in Petersburg by lunch. It was partly cloudy so we waited until a hole appeared in the clouds and we made a mad dash for the glacier. If the helicopter that carried us from the nearby town of Petersburg could be fueled by stoke, we would have flown for free. We touched down in the middle of an alpine paradise at 5:30 Friday night, less than 12 hours after leaving Seattle. During the previous two days, a strong warm-weather system had swept the region, melting away the early winter snow that had taken hold up high. The following morning we ascended a rock rib to access the icefall below the Needle’s southeast face. The glacier was quite broken and required climbing into moats and up a short serac to reach the gully that leads to the base of the Dave Burdick following one of the final pitches below the summit. East Arête. Deteriorating weather caused us to bivouac at the Photo: John Frieh col and attempt the summit the next day. We were very cozy squeezing three into our two-man tent and body heat made up After down-climbing from the top, we forged a rappel route for our measly sleeping bags. Light may be right but it is often down the northeast face. The alarm had been tripped and cold—and hungry. high cirrus clouds were starting to stream in from the north. We awoke to mostly clear skies and, on September 11, We quickened our pace down the mountain—our good luck continued our ascent, climbing steep snow and low 5th-class wouldn’t last forever. rock up the lower aspects of the East Arête to a prominent We reached the glacier by 5:30 p.m., where we enjoyed gendarme. A short wall led up and over the gendarme to exposed what little food we had left and the memories, still fresh, of our rock and mixed climbing along and right of the ridge crest to ascent. The following morning Wally, our pilot, whisked in and the false summit. A short rappel brought us to the summit tower plucked us from the glacier just before the next storm arrived. where our route joined the 1964 Kor-Davis North Ridge. The East Arête “Repeat Offender” represents the sixth ascent As Zac worked his way through an iced-up fist crack high of the peak and fourth all-free ascent. This trip would not have on the Needle’s final summit tower, Dave and I stood at the been possible if not for the generous support of the Copp-Dash belay making jokes and taking in the crisp fall day. The past two Inspire Award and the Mazama Expedition Committee. Thanks days had been a blur of motion. Pitches of airy alpine granite is also owed to Dieter Klose for support and allowing us to and mixed terrain had flowed beneath our boots, leading us climb while the Icecap was “closed for the season” and also to to this high and quiet perch. I took the final pitch to the top. our pilot, Wally O’Brocta from Temsco Air. The summit of Burkett Needle is a small island in the sky, Summary: First Ascent of the East Arête of Burkett Needle on and we were three lucky fools to have reached it, Dave and I September 11, 2011. Dave Burdick, John Frieh and Zac West. “Repeat Offender,” 2,500 ft., IV 5.9 M5 AI3  for a second time. Because it was our second time we thought “Repeat Offender” was an appropriate route name.

Shasta Icefall Mini-Epic on Shasta’s Whitney Glacier by Kristin Hessick

It was June 11, 2011. My husband, Jason Dionne, and I spent the night before the Mt. Shasta climb in a cheap hotel in Weed, California, about 368 miles from our Portland home. We had breakfast at a local place and drove up to the trailhead, Whitney Falls. The route there, Bolum Road, was marked as a four-wheel-drive road so we had prepared by bringing our SUV. We didn’t know if we would encounter snow as the starting elevation was 5,600 feet. The road had some big potholes, but it was relatively easy When we finally crested the top of the hill and began to for our SUV and would be easy for any car with good cleardescend toward the foot of Shasta, we caught a glimpse of our ance. There was no snow there, so we made our first big decidestination. We had hoped to get to a high camp at 10,000 feet, sion: to leave the snowshoes in the car. This turned out to be but our feet and backs were complaining, so when we found a wise as the snow didn’t begin until we got much higher. The flat sandy area with a bank of snow nearby, it was such a perfect weather was warm enough, but beginning that morning heavy spot we had to take it. We set up camp, happy to be done for clouds began setting in on the mountain. From the time we the day, but also disappointed that we had only gained a few started our hike, it rained on and off throughout the day. thousand feet. We cooked our dinners and used all but one of The trail sign for Whitney Creek Falls had been knocked our fuel containers. This would later create a small hardship. over by a flood in 1997. The old trail had been wiped out If I had not been so tired I would have explored a miniature with it. There was very little information on the Whitney canyon near our campsite that was just wide enough for one Glacier route so we assumed we would just have to navigate or two people to navigate. It looked as if a pile of 10-foot tall cross-country. We had hoped for a climber’s trail but we found slabs had been cracked open and slid apart. none. We followed the creek and a very primitive hiking trail The next day we hiked to high camp—10,000 feet or bust! that turned out to be one of the least pleasant parts of the Our spirits were high as the terrain had improved significantly climb. The trail zigzagged across the creek multiple times in a and we made much better time. Early in the day we crossed a mix of fine sand and pebbles. Each side of the creek was about very gentle part of Whitney Creek that was so clear-flowing we 15 feet high so climbing up and down was not pretty. Eventujust had to sit next to it, enraptured. This creek was the only ally, we moved past the horrible washout and picked up on place we were able to cross a flowing and accessible stream. an easier hiking trail to Whitney Falls. Much of this trail was Having fresh water and sunshine was wonderful. Eventually, poorly marked. We made it by using our map and compass we forced our way onward and began to climb a ridge that but, there was considerable led to the foot of the glacier. route-finding. Some trail We passed the tree line at about markers were also incor8,500 feet. rect. From camp the previous When the alarm clock went After an hour and a evening we had spied a looming off early, we were totally cliff face near the general area half of difficult hiking, we reached the Whitney Falls ready. Excited to get going, I didn’t feel where we assumed the toe of overlook, which turned glacier should be. By the the least bit tired. I downed a 5-hour the out to be quite beautiful. light of day, the cliff glimmered Whitney Creek cascades energy drink and flicked on my head- in the sun, making us wonder off a narrow slab of rock if it was made of rock or ice. lamp. across a deep valley with a As we got closer, its appearance wide-open view. The creek kept us changing our minds, itself was rather small, but one minute certain that it was later in the season, it would likely be more impressive. rock, the next convinced that it was indeed ice. Eventually, From the overlook, the trail disappeared completely. To get the mystery of the cliff was solved. To our utter amazement, to the campsite we wanted, we had to choose a route over a we realized it was the terminus of the Whitney Glacier. It was small hill or across a short but difficult river canyon. On the around 200 feet tall, with a huge amount of volcanic debris on opposite side of the river was a barren lava flow. We decided top. Creaking, groaning ice, rock fall and the sound of running on the hill route through a dense forest. The soft ground water reverberated all around as we had lunch near this cliff. continually gave way beneath our boots, making it difficult to In short, the music of an active glacier was serenading us. One gain purchase. For every step forward, I would slide back a bit. favorite photo shows the foot of Whitney Glacier with the top The terrain was rough and exhausting, which made gaining of Mt. Shasta crowned by clouds just behind it. elevation difficult. We followed this ridge deeper and higher, eventually coming

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to the 10,000-foot level where we found a nice protected ledge for camp. As we passed the lower glacier, which was very beautifully crevassed, we noted that the glacier was much lower than indicated on the map. However, our map was of poor quality as because many fine details were missing. No sign of humanity existed that we could see in this part of the wilderness—not a single tent platform in A lenticular cloud forms over Mt. Shasta. sight. It took a while to clear out a suitable area for the tent and build a rock wall to protect us from Shasta’s notoriously vicious winds. The view of Shasta’s smaller sibling, Shastina, was spectacular and we were also treated to a great view of Shasta and the Trinity Alps on the distant horizon. Though the weather had been perfect for us, we watched as a lenticular cap formed on the summit and hoped that our Mazama friends attempting the West Gully route that day had already reached the summit and were down safely. We also had noticed a few helicopters during the day and wondered if they were related to tourism or rescue. We would later learn that they were indeed rescue helicopters. A total of five people had to be rescued off the mountain that day by helicopter or by other means— thankfully, no one we knew. After readying our packs for an early climb the next morning, we melted snow, had dinner and went to bed. My efforts at hydrating that evening certainly paid off, with four trips to relieve myself in the night. While that was not helpful for restful sleep, I did find out what the weather was doing—it was storming! Starting around bedtime, we had to wear ear plugs so that the noise from the tent flapping in the wind wouldn’t keep us awake. There I was dropping my drawers in the midst of a swirling snowstorm! Ahh, the fresh, brisk mountain air, right? When it was time to leave in the early morning, it was still dark. We discussed our options. The weather was not as bad as it had been the previous evening, but it was still stormy. Since we had an extra day, we decided not to risk the climb in potentially bad weather. So we slept in and had a rest day. As the sun rose and the storm broke, we began to second-guess our decision. By mid-morning it was a perfect blue-bird day and we decided to do a short exploratory trek on the lower glacier just to relieve the tedium of a day in camp. We trudged up the moraine to the base of the glacier, roped up and prepared our gear. Though we were on a glacier it was unbelievably hot: t-shirt and shorts weather. Our feet sunk in quite deeply on the return trip so our short jaunt was longer and more tiring than it should have been. Jason eyed the route while we were out and determined where to go the next morning.

By the time we returned to camp, the blazing sun forced us to crawl inside the tent, which offered the only available shade. Unfortunately, it was hotter in the tent with no air circulation, but the relief from the sun was worth it. We napped and I decided that decorating my helmet with hand-drawn designs would Photo: Kristin Hessick help pass the time. Evening came and we were happy. With the snow melted and our dinner made, we re-packed our bags for the summit day. By this time we had run out of fuel. The good news was that all of our water bottles were full and we had plenty of food. When the alarm clock went off early, we were totally ready. Excited to get going, I didn’t feel the least bit tired. I downed a 5-hour energy drink and flicked on my headlamp. We hiked to the end of the ridge where we would start our technical climbing. There we put on crampons and roped up. Fortunately, the snow was frozen and easy to walk on. It was a crystal-clear night with amazing vistas everywhere we looked. Jason said the many horizontal marks on the snow were likely buried crevasses. Any suspicious ones were probed and crossed carefully. Jason later commented he thought the lower icefall was buried under a huge snowpack and that we had probably navigated the upper icefall. Either way, I had never seen such a thing before so when we got up to it, I was very impressed. It was fun to kick in with my crampons and navigate though Jason led and looked very happy doing it. I wanted to take pictures in order to document the beauty of the place and did so whenever we were in a safe location. The sun started to rise when we were in the icefall. There was deep blue shining ice jutting out all around us. Once on the other side of the icefall, Jason did the route navigation again. Avoiding areas that were overhung by cornices and seracs, we approached a steep wall of technical mixed rock and ice. This was also really enjoyable, and Jason led through it. I used both my ice axes—what fun that was! Jason was very excited to set ice screws and pickets galore. Finally, we got to the top of the wall. Since the last protection Jason had sunk in was his extra ice hammer, I racked it and followed him up a relatively easy slope. There was a bergschrund to cross so Jason probed and found a way around, but we still had to jump it—pretty exciting! About 10 steps up from the ’schrund, Jason’s hammer came loose from my harness and started sliding down the glacier. I started to go after it but stopped myself. Afraid that I might fall into the ’schrund, I decided it wasn’t worth going after. Jason was naturally upset with the loss of his

hammer, but he still had his wife! Fortunately he did not need the hammer the rest of our climb. Next was the ultra-steep, 1,000-foot 35-40-degree snow slope. This was the longest, steepest snow I have ever done. To add to my excitement, there were ice chunks periodically rolling down the sides of the slope. Last year, I was hit by one that took me out of the climbing season so I was more than a little apprehensive. As we were climbing through a soft-snow area, Jason realized that we were in avalanche debris that was only about a day or two old. He was unnerved and proceeded to head out of it as quickly as possible. He didn’t tell me so I would not be alarmed, but I could sense from his body language that something was wrong. I started to get very nervous and Upper Whitney Glacier. told myself that all I could do was just keep walking and trust Jason. Breathe in, breathe out, step, crunch, step, crunch. I created my own impromptu form of climbing meditation. It worked! My fear dissipated somewhat and I was just a climber again. We worked our way over to a rocky area and sat for a brief snack. It was so very treacherous that sitting down made the ground shift under me. I thought I might slide down the entire slope. At this point, we were up very high, about 12,000 feet. Rocks were still rolling down nearby so our adrenaline was high. Jason reminded me to look up, and I saw the most beautiful view of the climb. Shastina looked remarkable, as did the mountain all around us. It was so breathtakingly beautiful I would have loved to have taken a picture but I did not feel safe pulling out the camera. At this point, Jason admitted how nervous he had been in the avalanche debris area too. We set out once again to climb. It was simply exhausting. Jason was breaking trail ahead of me. I found myself getting annoyed that he was going so slowly. I watched him very carefully and realized he was totally exhausted. I figured if I wanted to go faster, I needed to lead myself. He asked me if I was certain and explained the risks to me. I was OK with it and so I set off on my first lead. I was having a good time and found I was very confident in my own ability to kick steps. This process went on for nearly two hours. At times, I thought we would never make the top of that slope but I was also certain I did not want to have to down-climb the technical sections. Jason took over the lead near the top when I grew weary. The top of the slope was essentially the summit plateau. We disconnected the climbing rope and walked side by side. We did see three other climbers who had probably come up the Avalanche Gulch route. We were on level ground and walked over to the base of the summit pinnacle. The smell of sulfur from the active fumaroles was all around us. We took off our

packs and climbed the short but well-trodden route up to the summit. where we smiled happily and took pictures—14,179 feet baby! This was my highest summit and also the most technical to date. Initially, there was a bit of confusion over our descent route, but Jason puzzled it out. We were descending the WhitneyBolum Ridge. It was not technically difficult and there were no glaciers, so it would be much easier for us. By this time the snow had gotten very soft. We stopped to remove our crampons when the snow was balling up on them. The view remained incredible and the ridge we descended was unclimbed—no one else had been on this ridge in quite awhile. The slopes seemed steep, but they were not as bad as what we had just come up. The Photo: Kristin Hessick views were spectacular because we could see the Bolum Glacier clearly, as well as lava flows and cinder cones in the valleys below. The Mishap

I stopped here and took a few photos of Shastina and Shasta. Shortly after I took the photos, I saw a big patch of snow and decided to glissade down to the next group of rocks. What I didn’t realize at the time was that the snow was too shallow. I never should have tried to glissade there. I got going a little fast and a larger rock that was hidden under the snow hit me right between my legs. It was extremely painful. I started to turn over to self- arrest and my feet stopped me at a gravel pile. Before I came to a stop, my foot had twisted and I felt a tweak in my knee. Jason rushed over to find out if I was hurt. I nodded yes as I was still out of breath from the pain in my groin. I stood up when the pain subsided and took a step toward Jason. Then my knee gave out and I crashed back into the snow. I tried again with no better result. My heart was racing. I hadn’t really hurt my knee, yet I was not able to bear weight on it. I realized that by now the sun was getting closer to the horizon and we were at about 12,000 feet. How was I going to get down? Visions of staying the night on the mountain and helicopters filled my head, but Jason took charge. He had me back down the slope on all fours. This seemed to work. I was able to get down the steeper parts in this fashion. He wanted to put me on a short rope to belay me down, but there was no suitable area to set an anchor. When we got to an area with more snow than rock, I tried to stand again. I found that I could bear weight on my knee if there was no twisting or balancing action needed. I followed in Jason’s tracks so that I didn’t get any surprise post-holes. Even then, several times my foot would slide, a sharp stabbing pain would hit me, and my knee would give

out. I would hit the ground again. Stand up, keep going. I wanted to get to that high camp. We reached an area where we could glissade safely. This was an easy way for me to descend because it didn’t require my right knee. Eventually we got down the ridge but next we had to rope up to cross the lower part of the Whitney Glacier. The snow was quite soft and there were many suspicious crevasse colorations in the snow. I was nervous when Jason asked me to move into echelon formation because we were crossing a crevasse field in soft snow. He later told me that there was so much snow that there was little actual danger. It was still terribly nerve-wracking for me. My knee was throbbing by this time. I was still stepping awkwardly and twisting my knee, but I was managing to descend. When we got off the glacier and onto the ridge back to our tent, I was so happy. The sun had set while we were on the glacier so it was getting dark. My injury had slowed our travel time waaaay down. I was worried about crossing the rocks but made it back to the tent safely. Altogether, it was an 18-hour day. I later learned that I had completely torn my ACL, injured the meniscus and strained several other knee ligaments. The orthopedic doctor was very impressed when he found out I had walked out under my own power carrying a 60 pound pack. We returned to camp with about 1½ liters of water left. We drank and passed out in the tent. The next morning we packed up camp and set to hike the rest of the way out to our car. It was now the 15th of June. We consulted maps and tried to plan the easiest way to get me out of there. We still had to descend over 4,000 feet to the SUV. We followed snowfields down the flank of Shastina as snow was much easier for me to walk on than unstable rocks. Eventually, we had to cross a lava field that was very scary for me. I left my helmet on during the hike out because I thought I might fall a few times and would need the protection. Hopping from boulder to boulder was exceedingly difficult and slow. By now we had run out of water as well and I was so thirsty. We were heading for the creek that we had passed on our way in but I was starting to doubt that Jason would get us back. I packed snow into my water bottles hoping it might melt. I was very thirsty, did I mention that? Eventually Jason’s skills were confirmed when we came to the stream. The difficult part for me was getting to it since there was a steep slope of dry sand and rocks about 15 feet tall in the way. With my injured knee it looked like climbing K2! Slowly, I made my way down, but at one point the ground gave out under my foot, which brought on a sharp pain in my knee followed by a collapse. My heavy pack pulled me head over heels backwards as I rolled down the slope. My head hit on a rock but thanks to my helmet, I did not even feel it. Have I mentioned yet how frightening it is to descend a mountain with a bum knee? At any point, I knew my knee could give out again and that was difficult to accept. We were now at Whitney Creek and there was no gift as precious as the bottle of fresh water that Jason handed to me. I lay in the sun and drank water thinking there was nothing more satisfying in life. We rested there for about an hour, filled up our bottles and carried on. As we descended, we tried to find a different way to get down than we had come up. That forested hill had been horrible. We agreed where to go on the map, but Jason and I each had different ideas of how to accomplish that. We went with Jason’s route at first, but I was getting a really bad feeling about it and convinced him to turn

around. It was a good move, as my route took us to a gradual descending streambed. Eventually we came out at the Whitney Falls Overlook we had been to before, and we knew we didn’t have much farther to go. We cursed the people who put stone cairns in the obvious places in the middle of the trail but neglected to indicate where to go when the trail disappeared. Once we got to the flooded creek-bed that we had hated traveling along two days earlier, we found a new trail that avoided the creek altogether. At the end of the trail, we saw how we missed it in the beginning. It is unmarked and heads off in a direction you would never expect from the original trailhead. If we were to do it again, we could pick a much easier route in and out. I had been painfully slow, so it was after 7 p.m. when we got to our vehicle. We were so happy until we found out the car battery was dead. Although our cell phone was almost out of power, we had expected to be able to charge it. We called AAA. An hour later, we leaned that no one was willing to tow us because the local maps indicated we were on a 4WD road. It was a 4WD road mainly for some big potholes and it was frustrating to get turned down for that reason. Since we didn’t have the luxury of making too many more calls, Jason considered hiking out to the highway to get a ride into town. Instead we made just one call to my parents and briefed them on the situation. They live in Utah and immediately started looking up information online and making calls for us. They found a tow truck for us, but the driver did not arrive until midnight and did not accept AAA. Talk about a character! He wanted to talk and tell us about how much he knew about Mt. Shasta. Listening to him was tortuous, but we endured as we needed that jump. After we got the car going, we drove back to the town of Mount Shasta and pulled into the first motel we could find, so exhausted that we couldn’t keep our eyes open. It was about 2 a.m. when our heads hit the pillows. I managed to get a call in to a co-worker because I was scheduled to work the next morning. I have never missed a day of work and I was anxious about it. We were still six hours away, and there was no way I could make it in time. In the morning Jason drove me to the nearest ER in Mt. Shasta. I had the doctor look at my knee and groin since I was really sore in both areas and very worried. We received only guesses from the doctor. Half a day later, we were back on the road. We finally arrived in Portland about 11 p.m. that night. I found out when I had an MRI of my knee at Siker Medical that I had completely torn my ACL. After having total ACL reconstruction, including a hamstring graft in early August, I will be out of commission for six to nine months, but the prognosis for a full recovery is good. Despite the serious situation and my injury, I had a wonderful time. The Whitney Glacier Icefall route was the most beautiful I have ever seen. Most of my time I was very happy in the Mt. Shasta Wilderness Area and I had also managed to summit on a very remote and technical route as well. Whoohoo! I was very pleased with myself because I had been training very hard and felt strong during the climb. I have a feeling I will be back on this mountain in years to come. Mt. Shasta, Whitney Glacier Route: Grade II, Class 3 rock, 45-degree ice or snow; 8,579 ft.

A Century of Hiking: 1912–2011 by Richard Getgen

The first official Mazama hike was led by William P. Hardesty on April 7, 1912, to Northwest Portland’s Harborton district and had only seven participants. Hardesty organized the Local Walks Committee and served as the chairman for four years. The committee scheduled a Sunday hike each week, except during the three-week Annual Outing.

With the six-day work week (Monday through Saturday), hikes were limited to Sundays and an occasional moonlight hike for the first 40 years. There were some weekend hikes during this period but seldom was an event scheduled on Saturday. It was not uncommon for 150 to 200 people to be in a group. In fact, the largest number of participants on a local outing was 504 at the dedication of Bonneville Dam in 1937. When the depression came, the number of participants decreased. The advent of World War II had even more drastic effects on both the participation and number of hikes. It was not uncommon for a hike to be cancelled due to lack of transportation during this time. In addition, the schedule of local walks included many berry-picking and nut-gathering trips, along with the annual mistletoe-gathering walk. In 1954, the Local Walks Committee transitioned into the Trail Trips Committee (TTC). Separate Saturday and Sunday hikes were routinely scheduled each week beginning on the weekend of June 15–16, 1968. The first Wednesday hike was scheduled on June 1, 1983. The evening walks, known as street rambles, began on May 12, 1987. Bob Miller initially led this event, which was held on Tuesday evenings from mid-spring into the autumn in Forest Park from 1987 to 1991. On Dec. 8, 1987, the evening walk was moved to downtown Portland, allowing the street ramble program to be year-round. On April 1, 1993, Billie Goodwin led the first Thursday evening ramble. The first three-hour ramble, aka “The Triple Crown,” was led on April 20, 1995. Between 1997 and 2002, summer rambles were led in the Lake Oswego area, and in 1997, a weekly hike in Glendoveer was led. The Mt. Tabor-area rambles began in June 2006 when the Mazamas moved to the current eastside location. More than 70 percent of the annual hiking population is attributable to the street ramblers. Mazamas also scheduled hikes with other local events, including the Annual Gorge Weekend (each Father’s Day weekend 1981-2005), Annual SOLV Beach Clean-Up beginning in 1984 and the National Trails Day beginning in 1993. Hiking awards began in 1939 with the Hughes Cup. This This list includes the top 25 Mazama hike leaders and the year of their first hike lead. This list is reflective of hikes led through Sep. 30, 2011. (Names in parentheses are maiden names.) *Still actively leading

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

trophy was presented at the Annual Banquet to the person who had participated in the most hiking events. Charles A. Whittlesey was the first person to receive this honor. Margery E. Moore received it four times (1954, 1955, 1957 and 1958). The Hughes Cup was retired in 1979 and replaced with the Hardesty Cup. The criteria for the Hardesty Cup transitioned from participation to leadership. It is currently awarded to the person with the most leadership points and cannot be won twice by the same person. From 1938 to 1983 cross-country skiing trophies for men and women were also awarded. Mileage participation awards were created in 1966 in increments of 250 miles. In the mid-1990s, TTC hikes past and present were entered into a database, which has been maintained ever since. Trail trip leaders are honored each year at the Annual Celebration. In addition to maintaining a list of each Mazama hike, I keep track of various classifications and rankings, including: • Most total hikes led: Richard Getgen (1,016), Dean Lee (671), Billie Goodwin (627) • Most weekend hikes led: Richard Getgen (570), Billie Goodwin (349), Gerry van Deene (213) • Most street rambles led: Dean Lee (620), Tom Guyot (460), Richard Getgen (446) • Most trail tenders led: Ray Sheldon (108), Bus Gibson (74), Stan Egbert (66) • Most snowshoes led: Marty Hanson (88), Sean Smith (30), Bob Miller (25) • Most backpacks led (nights): Richard Getgen (51), Ray Davis (28), Billie Goodwin (21) • Most leads in a year: Dean Kokko (107 in 2004-05), Richard Getgen (101 in 1997-98), Dean Lee (101 in 200910) • Most consecutive years leading: Elinor Levin (29: 19691997), Bus Gibson (28: 1983–2010), Harrie Jennison (25: 1935–1959) and Billie Goodwin (25: 1987–2011) • Most consecutive months leading: Richard Getgen (191: July 1992-May 2008), Billie Goodwin (190: Dec 1995-Sep 2011), Dean Kokko (79: July 1999-Jan 2006)

Getgen, Richard* Lee, Dean Goodwin(McPhearson, Fournier), Billie* Miller, Bob Hanson, Marty* Kokko, Dean* Guyot, Tom* Braem, David* Cone, Terry* Conley, Brian Jenkins, Carolyn* Sherbeck, Terry*

1,016 671 627 596 586 505 462 425 373 353 260 233

1992 1995 1987 1977 1994 1999 2004 2004 1996 1995 1994 2003

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Van Deenem, Gerry Williams, Kermit Smith, Robert (Bob)* Rosenwinkel, Heather Meyer, Kent* Davidson, Tom* Conser, Rich Searl, Ken* Sheldon, Ray* Wallace, Jim Oswald (Brandt), Cathy Eckel, Carolyn* Gibson, Bus

213 209 199 198 191 184 183 176 167 154 143 138 132

1980 1992 2008 1981 1990 2004 1993 2003 1967 1984 2000 2006 1972

The Cirque of the Unclimbables by Ryan Christie Note: This climb was partially funded by the Mazama Expedition Committee

Looking down to the boulder field 200 feet below me, seeing it strewn with blocks of granite discarded from the wall that I was tenuously clinging to, I should have been expecting it. Stemming across a left-facing dihedral, I was searching for any kind of hold for my left hand to grasp. My right hand was wrapped over a decent little ledge on the right wall, but everything else was wet and slimy from three weeks of rain. Feeling like my toes were starting to slip and that it was only a matter of seconds before they blew out, I decided to match hands and placed my left hand on top of my right and pulled down. Instead of the positive feel of solid rock under my hands, I levered the shelf right out of the wall. It was as if I was pulling a book out of a bookcase; the top of the rock tipped out towards me and then I was falling backwards with the rock following my descent. My first thought, and then action, was to scream “falling!” to Brad who was belaying above me. As I swung away from the wall with the rock falling onto me and then past me into the void below, my next thought was to scream “rock!” to Darrell who was climbing below. I recall having enough time to yell

“rock” three times in succession before it actually hit him. Then we were all yelling at Darrell, asking if he was okay. Dangling in space from the end of the rope, it was a long 30 seconds before I heard him respond by saying, “give me a minute.” After repeated attempts from Scott, Brad and me to get a response out of him, Darrell finally said, “It knocked the wind out of me; let me check to see if I’m OK.” A short time later Darrell concluded that he was OK, just bruised where the rock had hit his shoulder and hip and had knocked the wind out of him. Later he told us that when he had looked up, it was as if the sky went black! And like in a cartoon, the sky was falling, right on him. The rock I had dislodged was approximately two feet deep by four feet tall by about six inches thick. Thank goodness Darrell had the time and ability to swing out of the way; otherwise, it would have been a trip-ender or worse. It was the first day, second pitch of our 2½-day climb of the Lotus Flower Tower in The Cirque of the Unclimbables, Northwest Territories of Canada. Not an ideal way to start the biggest climb any of us had ever done. To go back to the beginning of the story, in the autumn of 2009 I was reading High and Wild by Galen Rowell. In his book, he writes about a trip to The Cirque of the Unclimbables accompanied by some of the most amazing mountain pictures I had ever seen. His story and images stuck with me until, some months later, while sitting in a Mazama Climbing Committee meeting, it was announced that the Expedition Committee was still accepting grant applications. They were seeking climb leaders that wanted to plan an expedition to do something extraordinary. That’s all it took to get the ball rolling. My grant application was accepted and the committee hinted that mine was one of the coolest trips for which they had received a request. So I set to work doing the research, planning the gear and expenses, and hand-picking a qualified team of like-minded climbers. Everything came together fairly quickly. I picked the team from people whom I had climbed with and trusted but also knew I could get along with for the 10 days together this trip would require. My decision on team size was due to the desire to have two rope teams of two so we could back each other up. Additionally, in the event of an injury or someone dropping out of the expedition at the last minute, I wanted to

View of Lotus Flower Tower from base camp after the storm cleared. Photo: Ryan Christie

have another person who would train with the team and be involved in all of the planning from beginning to end. This way he or she could step right in to take someone’s place and not need to do any catching up. As it turned out, this was an excellent plan. Our trip was set for the first ten days in August 2010. We were getting together for team meetings on a regular basis. Everyone was assigned different roles and responsibilities for various aspects of the expedition. Then, an unexpected derailment happened to my plans: I shattered my ankle in a bouldering accident! Two surgeries later and after a week spent in the hospital, I was still determined that this wasn’t going to ruin our plans. After all, it was only March; I still had five months… Lying in the hospital bed, my view was a white dry-erase board on the wall with all of my hospital details on it. Along with things like “today I achieved,” in which the answer varied from “out of bed” to “lapped the whole floor on crutches,” there was a line-item titled “my personal goal.” Written in bold black ink, in capital letters, the words “THE CIRQUE” looked back at me every morning when I sat up. I had the nurse write it in for me on my second day in the hospital. Unfortunately, the healing process was much slower and more complicated than I expected and I was barely hiking by the time our trip dates were nearing. So I asked the team to postpone our plans for a year and explained the circumstances to the Expedition Committee, requesting that they hold the grant money for us until the following summer. Everyone agreed and I set to work on a rigorous recovery to get myself back to my previous hiking and climbing abilities. This was

easier said than done, but eventually my ankle improved and we were back on for the first ten days of August 2011. We started planning training climbs. I got strong again but it was becoming very evident that I could not handle as heavy a load as I used to. After a Dragontail Peak climb in June, we determined that the only way I could still go and the four of us could get all of the gear in that we needed was going to be by helicopter. This added about $5,800 of expense that none of us had planned on. Our compromise was to spend half that amount and use the heli to get into the Cirque but then hike out to meet the float plane when it was time to leave. This also meant that the other three would have to shoulder more of the weight on my behalf—70- to 80-lb. packs apiece. Now, with less than two months to go, one of our original members, Jeremy Keen, dropped out. Since it was anticipated ahead of time that someone might drop, our alternate was able to step into that fourth position and our team was complete. The team now consisted of Scott Howe, Darrell Weston, Brad Farra and me. We flew from Portland on Saturday, July 30, to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory. From there, we rented a minivan and did some last-minute shopping for food and gear before the stores closed. Since our rental van had a low tire, Darrell made the suggestion to buy some cans of “Fix-a-Flat” just in case we had problems with a leaky tire. This turned out to be a genius move since we had to travel hundreds of miles on gravel roads and did end up having a problem tire on our hands. As the sun went down, we made the 7 ½-hour drive through the night to arrive at the float plane base by 4:30 the next morning. I expected mosquitoes, lots of them in fact, but when we got to the meet-up point, I couldn’t find my head net! Fortunately Kluane Airways provides a cabin at the parking area where we were going to be leaving our car. We took refuge inside the most rustic of cabins and took an opportunity to get a couple hours of sleep. Up again at Our comfy ledge for the night with ropes laid out to insulate us from the cold rock. Photo: Ryan Christie

7 a.m., we were anxious to get airborne but had to wait patiently about us since we were going to be neighbors for the next week until around 11 a.m. when we heard the buzz of the helicopter. so they asked us about our experience. Before any of the rest of Brian, the helicopter pilot, landed in the parking lot and came us could respond honestly, Darrell replied jokingly that this was into the cabin to check on us and see how much gear we had. his first time climbing outside. He assured them, however, that He seemed pleased that we didn’t have too much stuff and he was a very good gym climber. then left again saying, “I’ll let Our original plan was to Warren know that you’re here; hike to the base of the Tower see you soon.” on day one, climb up three or It was almost another hour pitches of the route and The chimney provided five four before he was back, this time leave our ropes in place. For with a bright yellow float plane pitches of some of the best this climb, a “pitch” usually in tow. Warren LaFave, owner climbing the full and most varied climbing I’ve ever done. meant of Kluane Airways, landed length of the rope, 200 feet, his 1957 DeHavilland Beaver It started out as a large off-width crack before reaching or building and came ashore to greet us. an anchor. We would then that slowly widened as we climbed. We split into two teams, with come back early the next Darrell and me flying in the morning, quickly ascend our helicopter and Brad and Scott fixed ropes and attempt a traveling aboard the float plane. The flight was long and circu- one-day climb of the route. In our research, we had read of itous due to the many low clouds and rain storms in the area. people doing this and knew it was possible. We had also read Since the pilots were flying by visual flight rules, we had to turn many accounts of people sleeping on the bivy ledge that was back more than once to find a different way in. At one point approximately halfway up the wall. This climb consists of 18 the fuel in the helicopter got so low that we had to land at a fuel pitches of rock climbing ranging from 5.7 up to 5.11. However, cache in the middle of nowhere and refuel the chopper. due to all of the wet weather prior to our arrival, the climbing Over two hours after we left the mosquito-infested parking turned out to be more difficult than expected. Then after our lot, we were flying over mountains I recognized from all of the near miss with the rock that I had dislodged onto Darrell on pictures that I had pored over in the months leading up to this our second pitch, we were sufficiently shaken up to change our trip. The moment had finally arrived—we had finally arrived! plans. Also, because there were so many groups waiting to climb It was even more real when we flew past the upper headwall of the wall, we thought we would let them have at it and decided Lotus Flower Tower and, at about 1,400 feet up the face, we to climb the Tower in two days with a night spent on the ledge. looked out on two climbers ascending our route. This turned out to be a good plan since there were many The helicopter set us down in the middle of Fairy Meadows. parties climbing on the route that first day of good weather. We quickly unloaded our gear and just as quickly the pilot was While the rest were going to the summit, we spent our time the back in the air: off to pick up Scott and Brad at the float plane first day just putting our ropes up on the first three pitches. The landing site six miles and 3,000 vertical feet down the valley. next day, more teams went up while other teams were coming Darrell and I set off to scout out a campsite and immediately down. We slept in and made our approach to the base of the found that all of the best sites we had read about were already climb sometime around 9 in the morning. We ascended our taken. Including us, there were 22 people in the Cirque, possibly fixed ropes and continued face climbing and chimney climbing the largest grouping of climbers here at any time. for the rest of the day until topping out on the ledge late in the The weather had been crummy and wet for three straight day. Coincidentally, we ran into Mark and Janelle on the ledge weeks before we arrived. Other parties that greeted us on our as they were descending from a successful summit bid. arrival were pleasantly surprised to hear that we were expecting The chimney provided five pitches of some of the best and good weather in the coming days based on forecasts we had been most varied climbing I’ve ever done. It started out as a large following. Unfortunately for some of the climbers, their time off-width crack that slowly widened as we climbed. We went was up and even if they could stay to enjoy the nice weather, from face-climbing with one hand and foot in the chimney to they were out of food, energy and motivation to climb anything. sticking half of our bodies into it. Next, we were fully inside the Two people in particular, Mark and Janelle Smiley, were chimney, stemming and wedging. Toward the top it was so wide pleased to hear about our weather-forecasting ability. We had a that we needed to use bridging technique, meaning our feet satellite phone and had arranged to call Lee Davis at the MMC were against one wall with our backs pressed against the other. every day between 3 and 4 in the afternoon. He was following This was made trickier by the packs on our backs catching on multiple weather-forecasting websites so he could give us the snags and hindering our progress. At one point a large chockmost accurate information on what to expect. Lee’s forecasts stone had to be surmounted, which meant climbing up underwere better than that of our pilot who flew in and out of the neath it, working our way out from under it, then moving up area every day! the face of the big block until we stood on top. Mark and Janelle are professional guides from Crested Butte, After the chimney, one last pitch led to the ledge. It was Colorado who have embarked on a project to climb all 50 of another left-facing corner, only this dihedral was too wide to “The 50 Classic Climbs of North America,” made famous by allow stemming, which forced us to climb the finger crack the book of the same title by Roper and Steck. The Lotus Flower straight in. For me, this was some of the most challenging Tower is one of the 50 classics. They were curious to know more climbing yet and required me to really trust my feet. More than

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once I found myself hanging onto the sling attached to Brad’s dihedral that still had some residual wet and slippery spots gear placement, thankful for the security it gave me. from the previous rains. This pitch was rated 5.9+ on the With all four of us safely on the ledge, we laid out our ropes topo but could readily be considered mid-5.10 because of the to sleep on. These would provide a little bit of cushioning as difficulties. well as insulation from the cold rock underneath. The ledge We topped out a pitch and a half up this corner and were was approximately eight feet deep by about 20 feet across. A ready to climb onto the Xenolith Headwall. All of the coolest boulder and large, bottomless crack took up about half of that pictures that we had seen of this climb were taken on this real estate, leaving a flat spot just large enough for the four of us headwall and we were now starting up it. We were now faceto line up side by side and try to sleep. In addition to the hard climbing on little nubs and chicken-heads but the entire upper ground and cold conditions, sleep didn’t come easily because headwall was protected by continuous cracks that took gear there was still a team of two climbing to the summit above us fairly well. on the upper headwall. Even though they were more than a We fell into a very efficient pattern of climbing as a team thousand feet above us, we could hear their conversations as if of four: Brad would lead on two 8½ mm ropes 60 meters long they were a mere rope-length away. We all had to sleep with called half-ropes, while I belayed him. When Brad reached our helmets over our faces because from time to time small the next anchor, he would back it up with some of his gear pebbles would land on us from high above. The frequency of and belay me on one rope while I cleaned the route. Darrell, rock-fall increased as the duo above started descending and 20 to 30 feet behind me, would start up the route, each of us throwing their ropes to rappel from anchor to anchor. trailing a rope. When I reached the anchor, I would pass gear By the time the couple reached our ledge it was truly dark back to Brad to re-rack for the next pitch while he continued and they did not want to risk descending any further. They belaying Darrell up to join us at our stance. While Darrell stuffed themselves in between the boulder and the wall and prepared to belay Scott up to us, I would start belaying Brad tried to sleep. I was too cold and uncomfortable to get any real up the next pitch. We continued climbing this way all the way sleep. Because I was tired, I drifted off a couple of times only to the summit. to awake suddenly because one of my team members rolled Imagine climbing a vertical face 2,000 feet above the over or adjusted to a different position. Somehow Darrell got ground, with extreme exposure on three sides and every belay the spot on the end next to the bottomless gap. Every time he hanging, meaning no ledges to stand on. This was our scenario started to fall asleep, he felt himself roll over and jolted awake, and although it was quite exciting, with a very enjoyable fearing that he was slipping into the body-sized crack next to variety of climbing, it was also very uncomfortable to spend him on the ledge. two days hanging in our harnesses, pushing off the wall with After our sleepless night, I was eager to get moving again feet encumbered by tight rock shoes. We each became preocwhen I spotted the first flash of sunlight on the very top of cupied with adjusting our stances at the belay in an ongoing a tower across from us. I got up and started taking pictures effort to maintain some semblance of comfort. After it was all and eating some breakfast. I couldn’t eat very much though, over, some of our toes were numb with bruising underneath since I would need water to wash it down and that was a our toenails. Even as I write this, my big and second toes on precious commodity at my left foot still have this point. We thought numbness and my big we had all brought toenail is completely enough water with black and blue. us for several days of The one exception climbing but due to to our neat, efficient the exertion and heat climbing pattern was of the previous day we the crux pitch. From had less than four liters an anchor 30 feet left for all of us to below the crux roof, last another full day of Darrell and I watched climbing. as Brad made three I woke everyone up attempts to climb it and pressured them to free. In other words, get moving by saying, Brad’s goal was to “Daylight is a-wasting, climb the entire route fellas—we need to get a without the aid of the move on and finish this rope or the gear to pull beast!” (or something on. The combination like that). Everyone of exhaustion from two got packed and racked days of climbing (this and I belayed Brad was pitch 15) and the up the next pitch off difficulty of the moves the ledge—an over- The majority of the team climbing in this order: Ryan Christie, Darrell Weston and proved to be too much Photo: Brad Farra hanging, left-facing Scott Howe. and we watched as

Looking up the first three pitches of the route with Brad leading, Scott belaying and Darrell watching. Photo: Ryan Christie

Brad fell from the roof. Undaunted, he tried two more times before giving in to using the gear for aid. Up until this point, I had been doing all of the belaying with the two ropes attached to Brad, but now a different technique came into play. With one hand clinging to a crack at the back of the roof, Brad put in a cam as high as he could reach on the face above. He then clipped his rope to it, pulled on the cam and yelled, “Take on red!” While I held the red rope tight, he placed a nut higher in the crack above, clipped his other rope to it and yelled, “Take on blue, slack on red!” Realizing that I was having trouble negotiating the ropes back and forth through my belay device in this manner, Darrell grabbed the slack line from me and stuffed it into his belay device. Scott patiently waited at the anchor below us while Darrell and I belayed both of Brad’s ropes, working him through a sequence of aid moves on his way through the crux and back to easier terrain. After seeing Brad struggle with the roof, we all decided that we would use our ascenders to skip this pitch of climbing. After that came one of the best pitches on the entire face: a perfect-width 5.9 fist crack, a welcome relief after all the face climbing. This was definitely Brad’s favorite pitch. One more rope length of easier climbing brought us to the top of the route and an easy scramble to the summit. I sent Brad and Darrell on to the summit and finished belaying Scott up to me. We all reconvened on top at about 8:45 p.m. for some amazing photos backlit by the setting sun. The views could not have been more spectacular, with the lighting of alpenglow on the surrounding peaks and the shadows stretching over the lakes and valleys far below. We had done it. We had reached the top of the biggest wall any of us had ever climbed. There wasn’t much time to celebrate because now we had to get back down.

The only way off the top of Lotus Flower Tower is to rappel back down the face, so I started off. I left the summit at about 9:15 p.m., rappelling down two of our ropes tied together as a double strand and cleaning the knots and snags on the way down. When I reached the anchor and clipped in, Brad descended next carrying the other two ropes coiled over his shoulders. When he reached the anchor, I took one of the ropes, tied one end into the anchor and tossed the other end. I then rappelled the single strand with the other coiled rope over my shoulder. When I reached the next anchor, I took the coiled rope, tied one end to the anchor and threw the rest down. We were now set to all rappel at the same time. I went down my single strand while Brad came down the single strand above me and Darrell and Scott simul-rappelled the double strand off the top. When Brad and I each arrived at our individual anchors, we took the tail of the rope we had just descended and tied it into our anchor. With handheld radios we communicated that we were ready for the upper end of our ropes to be untied and thrown down. Meanwhile Darrell pulled the top rope while Scott re-threaded it into the next anchor. In this fashion the team made a quick, efficient descent of the wall. There was one catch, however. From the radio I heard Darrell’s voice say, “Uh, guys, the rope is stuck and we can’t get it free.” On the very first rope-pull from the highest anchor, the rope became irretrievably stuck. It was hung up on the many flakes and blocks high above the belay. Hanging alone three anchors below the summit, I watched the rest of the light fade out of the sky as I waited for word that the rope was free. Fifteen or 20 minutes went by while Brad and I waited to hear what was happening. The darker it got, the more concerned I became. Finally, with a very calm voice Darrell said, “I’m going to have to climb back up to retrieve the rope.” “Did he really sound that calm?” I thought. I realized that as the time ticked by and the last light disappeared from overhead, I was getting increasingly concerned about the outcome of our latest predicament; to have climbed all the way to the summit, only to get stymied on our first rappel! Fifteen minutes ticked by and I prayed that Darrell was able to get the rope and safely climb back to the belay station. Twenty minutes and I was inwardly praising Darrell for his courage. After 30 minutes I had moved on to thinking about how incredibly thirsty I was. I was eyeing a moist patch of the wall nearby, thinking about licking it when the call came: “We’ve got the rope and we’re stringing up the next rappel!” “Thank god,” I said aloud. It was finally time to get moving again even though my stiff joints and sore ankle didn’t want to move. Now that the team was finally moving down the wall, it was my job to scout for the next rappel anchor. Being careful not to pass it in the darkness and not jam the stopper knot at the end of the rope into my rappel device, I was hyper-alert to anything shiny or colorful that passed under the light from my headlamp. Looking across the wall both right and left as well as over both shoulders, I would stop once in awhile to look all around me at the wall. Once, I almost missed the anchor when it unexpectedly appeared 15 feet out to my right. A couple of times I actually had to reach down to the anchor slings below me and pull them up so I could clip my leash into them. I would then remove my rappel device, being careful not to let the rope go, so I could tie

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Over 17,000 Feet...Are You Kidding? by Ellen Gradison

Once again, individuals from outdoor clubs including Mazamas, Mountaineers and Chemeketans, enjoyed an in-depth personal and cultural experience in the Department. of Cusco, Peru. First a bit of background: For the past four years, the Mazama Outings to Peru have spent the entire three to four weeks (depending on the year) with one hand-picked group of guides, drivers, cooks and wranglers. Because we arrange for private transportation, we can visit many more places than the usual trips, including those that few non-Peruvians ever see. We can also make spur-of-the-moment stops for picture taking, or seeing a particular bread oven in Oropesa, known for its pan chuta, or for slingshot jumping at the local bungee place (where one’s age is quickly replaced by one’s shoe size). We can accommodate sudden strikes and storms by shuffling our schedule. These Mazama trips are about total immersion—we visit tiny villages often never visited by other foreigners, and meet people in their homes and fields. While acclimating well below the level of Cusco (about the elevation of Mt. Hood’s summit) we not only visit the ruins for which the charming town of Ollantaytambo is principally known, but we also visit the quarries that were used to build the ruins and see other structures not on the beaten path on all sides of town and both sides of the river. Our treks are not particularly grueling: We have a three-course hot lunch on the trail in the dining tent and an extra “ambulance” horse for riding in case someone feels unwell. Each person on the treks may have his or her own tent and special diets are accommodated easily. The dining tent at camp has daily tea time as well as dinner and room for cribbage games or journaling. This year’s trip was no exception to the immersion theme. One of our group played guitar and sang his own music, partly in Spanish, at a local venue following the local act. Another allowed himself to be shot as a slingshot high into the air just north of Cusco—and happily paid for the unforgettable experience. Another found herself eating off the proprietor’s private plate at a local restaurant after chatting it up with him during her meal. While a couple of us appeared to be the only nonlocals at a festival that involved a church service, a drunken sequence and a man losing his pants…(you had to be there). One member of the group celebrated a birthday on the sixth day of our trek (basically in the middle of NOWHERE) and to his delight discovered a fabulous chocolate cake at breakfast, moist, beautifully flavored and decorated, which the cooks had set to preparing most of the previous night. Now: to get to the subject of this article: “Over 17,000 feet.…” Our group consisted of a longtime climber, three somewhat experienced hikers with varying amounts of climbing experience, an occasional hiker, and one who actually prefers kayaking. At our initial meeting, the leader introduced the trek to the group: very remote and very high, with a pass, or maybe even two over 17,000 feet. A number of dubious looks resulted. We discussed careful acclimatization that would occur over the first week to 10 days involving hiking, resting, sleeping, eating, Diamox if desired and herbal remedies,

including chewing coca leaves and drinking copious amounts of coca tea. We discussed how total immersion might include living at altitude, as do many of the Andean peoples. More dubious looks. A few words about coca: For the people of the highlands of Peru, chewing coca leaves is a perfectly legal activity. Apparently the custom arose more than 2,000 years ago. Coca plays an important role in many Peruvian rituals as well as in their social interactions. Coca leaves are carried so the gods (Apus) will act to protect one’s safety. Leaves are “read” for advice, much like people in the U.S. read palms or cards. Leaves are offered to the local gods before one enters a place or walks in it. They are shared with friends and especially with strangers as here we might greet and shake hands with a person. They are both chewed and steeped in hot water for tea for the effect of relieving fatigue, hunger and the ill effects of altitude. Game on. We began by flying from Portland to Lima, which is at sea level. At least the plane cabins were pressurized to about 6,000 feet, accomplishing a bit of acclimatization there. Then we flew to Cusco, at about 11,400 feet. The coca tea started to flow as we rested a bit at the small hotel where we would stay upon our return to Cusco before we took the beautiful drive dropping down to Ollantaytambo at around 9,000 feet. The fun began. Ollantaytambo is built on an original Inca city in the Sacred Valley of the Urubamba. We hiked to ruins. On the first terrace the coca leaves came out and we began chewing. Then more ruins and more hiking and more coca. The subsequent days saw visits to Maras, the salt flats and Moray, the pre-Inca and Inca ceremonial site and location for agricultural research on crop rotations and altitude. We

Campesinos in Upis enjoying our gifts.

Photo: Ellen Gradison

enjoyed a huge meal at Tanupa: traditional Peruvian food, buffet style, alongside the Urubamba River, with vicunas wandering about and colorful live local music. We also visited Seminario’s ceramic workshop in Urubamba. The next day we hiked a little more extensively to the quarries high above Ollantaytambo at more than 11,500 feet, so we engaged a local man, Maximiliano, to carry our lunch. We chewed more coca. We had gained more than 2,500 feet, having started at about 9,000 feet. No one seemed to notice. The fabulous ancient city of Machu Picchu was our next destination. It was easy to run up and down the stone stairs since the site is at only 8,000 feet. Climbing the mountain of Huayna Picchu, which is featured in most photographs as the backdrop for Machu Picchu, was a breeze if you didn’t look down while you were negotiating the steps and trying to hold onto the cables. The views of Machu Picchu from the top were wonderful. For the first time in recent years, the whole group made it to the top together and, what’s more important, back down again safely! City tours in Cusco and local ruins followed. At this point the group was well on its way to becoming acclimated as we were now spending our days and nights well over two miles high. One day we had a private home visit with a weaver friend of the leader’s in Chinchero. Her entire family weaves, including the men. (Note: Many of the finest weavers in Peru are men). We were treated to an in-depth display and discussion of how the wool is obtained, cleaned, dyed, spun and woven, all with completely natural ingredients found locally. This demonstration was followed by a meal of coca tea, papas (potatoes), choclo (very large-kernelled yellow corn) and cuy (guinea pig) prepared by our hosts. Now we weren’t only high up, but we were eating completely local foods. Our weeklong trek was to begin with a ride down the road from Cusco to Puno. We turned off at a town called Pitumarca, and worked our way up the valley to an impressive gorge, at which point we wished our driver, Ruben, a good week and goodbye, crossed our fingers and individually dipped into our bags of coca to begin our hike. Out came the GPS and altimeter: A member of our group had already reached his all-time personal highpoint at 14,000 feet and we hadn’t even started walking! The group in advance had discussed the fact that one riding horse might not be sufficient for the group; thus, we decided to opt for a second riding horse, in case folks just couldn’t pull themselves up the huge hills. The trek unfolded, day one: We hiked along an enormous gorge and up a misty valley on an old Inca road to camp at 14,460 feet. We were treated to rain, rainbows, snow and then a spectacular moonrise over the mountains to the east. On day two we continued along the valley and onto high open terrain heading for one of the largest lakes in Peru, Lago Sibinacocha, camping at 15,940 feet. By day three we had reached our lake destination and we camped slightly above 16,000 feet near the lakeshore. The following day we crossed two passes, one well over 17,000 feet known as Condor Tucco Pass. There were many groups of vicunas as well as vizcachas (like chinchillas) not far from our path and taking photographs proved a wonderful excuse to stop, and breathe. The fourth, fifth and sixth nights were spent at over 15,000 feet, traversing clockwise around Ausungate Mountain, which rises to a summit at

Our group at Machu Picchu prior to our climb of the mountain in the background (Huayna Picchu). Photo: Ellen Gradison

20,945 feet. We visited with several of the few local people, mostly children, who ventured from their flocks and chores to our little encampment. Our last trek night was spent at about 14,570 feet in Upis, where we enjoyed hot-tubbing in a stone and mud pit with local hot-spring waters. We shared our collection of stuffed animals with the people there. One older gentleman in particular was quite taken with his gift of a bat with a somewhat evil grin, and one of the little girls was thrilled with a tiny, silky pink pony. Amid sun, snow, hail and wind, everyone took many photographs, gave away large numbers of toothbrushes, hygiene supplies, school supplies, stuffed animals and clothing, and accomplished some minor first aid treatments. We shared smiles with the local folks, especially the children. Four members of the group never touched the horses, except perhaps to give one a friendly pat. Two members rode, but sparingly. The second riding horse was never used. On the ride back to Cusco from Tinqui, where our trek ended, the beer, rather than the coca, flowed generously, although Ruben, our driver, abstained for obvious reasons. But then, he hadn’t been over 17,000 feet! Dates: September 4–23, 2011 Participants: Ellen Gradison, leader; Ivy Dunlap, assistant leader; Jamie Anderson, Brad (Jorge) Andrews, Kert Fairham, Neil Peterson. Outfitters and Guides Coordinated by Apuandino Expeditions: Head Guide Jose Antonio Delgado Cavero 

A Young Mazama’s Idea of a Mt. Hood Climb by Gary S. Snyder

Editor’s Note: This is a unique point of view on mountain climbing. We are indebted to Vera Dafoe for submitting this article, which first appeared in the 1946 Mazama Annual. You say you want to climb Mt. Hood? Don’t do it! You had just better listen to me, because I’m an experienced mountaineer. I’m the one who can tell you which end of an ice axe you hold on to. Yes, I climbed Mt. Hood—just last week. Now, first, forget all you’ve ever heard about how beautiful mountains are. They’re nothing but oversized gravel heaps scattered with a bit of dirty slush. Any time anybody says anything about beautiful mountains, you just shut your ears. I got up to the old hill on Saturday afternoon, wasted time listening to the Mazama Club guide talk about warm clothes and waterproof boots, why to go ahead without the women when a rest is called, and all sorts of silly things. About the time most nightclubs open, I crawled into my icy, damp sleeping bag, and while muttering about the wonderful outdoor life, tried to keep the foot of the guy next to me out of my mouth and my left lung free of boot laces and hobnails. After my back side had just got numb enough to allow me some sleep, some eager beaver kicked me in the face and chortled, “Come on now, it’s time to get up! It’s midnight already!” Still half asleep, I forced some chocolateflavored mud down my throat and ate a few soggy graham crackers. Before I knew it, I was in a line, with people in front of me and back of me—and someone—I still don’t know her name—in front of me had a patch on the seat of her pants about a foot across. She was the one who shrieked with fiendish glee, “We’re off!” when we started, and I can only think she must have been off. About the time most sane people are hearing the paper boy on Sunday morning, we were on snow, and everybody was muttering about crampons. I played

“Crampon, crampons, how to disentangle the crampon” for half and hour before they were properly on my feet. By six o’clock we could see the summit. This only gave me the most heartfelt wish to be in bed. I never realized how attached one may become to his bed. So we kept on climbing upwards, putting one foot in front of the other. I just watched the “Patch.” (There were 512 stitches across.) About three miserable hours later, we came to the “Hot rocks,” little holes in the ground giving forth the fumes of sulphur and other chemicals belonging only in chemical laboratories and hell. They made me quite ill. I just watched the “Patch” and kept going up. I lived through two more miserable hours (the “Patch” had 380 stitches down) and with a great deal of relief, greeted the summit. The wonderful view so often spoken of was absent. All to be seen were

Right, Upper: Mazama climbing party at Frog Camp, September 1928. Photo: Mike Hermann Right, Lower: Largest single party to climb Mt. Hood before the Mazamas, on the summit August 18, 1892. Most of these people became charter members of the club in 1894. Photo: Bentram C. Towne

huge gray clouds. After sitting on the summit for an hour, the guide cracked another beastly joke and shoved us all off the summit. We had no choice but to slide on the seats of our pants an oh, I knew then what a patch was for. Well, sliding down two miles of ice, I had a pretty numb you-know-what. I was pretty sad. We hit the rocks after several hours of this, trotted back to camp, thanked the guide and silently prayed to see his heart in a biology exhibit bottle someday, then slept all the way home. The moral in this: Never go mountain climbing. Buy two Sunday papers, even three, and read them all day, but never go hiking or climbing. If you wish to retain your sanity, health, and the love of your poor, dear wife just keep away from them, or you’ll end up in my condition. I’m climbing it again next week.

My Minor Himalayan Experience by Suresh Singh Planning

This trip was about a month in the making with my friend Rustom Antia and I excitedly exchanging emails, phone calls and Google documents to plan the week-long walk in the southern-most region of the Himalayan Range, the Dhauladhars. This part of the Himalayas has the benefit of being easily reached by air from New Delhi and, with peaks ranging in height from 14,700 feet to 16,200 feet, it is perfect for short trips with little time for acclimatization. In order to summit most of the peaks, one simply has to shovel, two long and two short 4mm prussiks, one MSR XGK climb up to the north side of the massif via passes at about stove for use with easily available kerosene fuel, two pots, four 14,000 feet to 14,500 feet and then attempt the peaks either plates, a single first aid kit and two tents. Personal gear for each from the north or along east-west ridges. The peaks are free of us included a down sleeping bag, bivy bag, one set of warm of snow after the monsoon rains in July and August and underwear, boots, crampons, wind-proof pants and jacket, remain relatively snow-free into late fall. However, our trip was down jacket, gloves/mittens, hat, goggles, sunscreen, mat and planned for mid-May and there tend to be significant amounts walking poles. of snow in the passes in addition to the peaks themselves. The We hired two porters: 46-year-old Jangoo and his 18-yearsnow line is at about 10,000 feet at this time of year. old son Praveen. Both proved to be really great travel companThe bulk of our planning consisted of three things: gear, ions and very competent porters. The people who live in these climb plan and obtaining topographic maps. There are Indian regions are quite tough. However, as is usual, the porters tended army maps (and even a Russian one that I saw and most to have only small amounts of gear of their own (unlike Sherpa certainly a Chinese version), guides). So we loaned each of them but these are not available a backpack and sleeping bag. I also to the general public. So we loaned my Vasque boots to Praveen. relied on Google Earth to Rustom gave Jangoo a nice pair of get an idea of the contours woolen socks. Of the two tents, one and Rustom converted was a Black Diamond Megamid these into a printable map shelter and the other was a 2-person with which we planned 4-season Nemo. The Megamid is our climbs. Unfortunately, not really a complete tent in that our experience shows that the floor is separate from the roof, these maps are not accurate with no barrier against the elements guides since the contours in all directions! The great feature, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t precisely match the though, is its low weight and easy topography. We also had setup. We gave the Nemo to our GPS waypoints from others porters and we used the Megamid who had crossed the passes simply because we had better gear but there were no climb and could stay warm without a tent. waypoints at that time. In The traverse. Photo: Suresh Singh The Trip any case, we developed four Our trip began inauspiciously. I possible plans that varied reached New Delhi at midnight on as to which pass to ascend, Saturday, May 14, and took the 11 a.m. flight to Dharamsala which peaks to attempt and which pass to come down on. In the next morning. My two gear-engorged bags made it safely the end, we did follow one of these plansâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;well, mostly. from Portland to New Delhi but, on reaching Dharamsala, I Planning what gear to take is pretty much one of the major found myself luggageless! It turned out that there was a fivedetermining factors in a successful trip, apart from weather team cricket tournament starting and one team was on board and skill level. Too much gear guarantees nothing significant our turboprop airplane. So naturally, their luggage took precewill get done due to the weight, while too little causes safety dence! This was a disaster because we only had seven days for concerns. Thus we spent an endless amount of time on reconthe trip and we had to start on Monday, May 16. After several ciling the climb plans with the gear. For instance we decided frantic phone calls I was told that the bags had been sent by against helmets (snow routes versus rock), carried only three road and I would have them by Monday lunchtime, 24 hours ice axes between the two of us plus one each for two porters later. As luck would have it, my bags turned up at 6 p.m. the (more on this later), one 30m 8mm half-rope, a few carabiners, same day (Sunday) because they had made it on the only other six long slings, no harnesses (we planned on using the slings), flight into Dharamsala. Anyway, I did not question fate or the some rock protection, one snow picket, one ice screw, a snow

incomprehensible ways of the airline gods and set about getting snow the following day. After we set up the tents, a windstorm ready for the trip. with hail descended on us from the mountains. The gusts Our plan was to go up the Kundli pass, one of the most were about 60-80 mph and were accompanied by lightning no difficult and highest of the passes at 14,500 feet, and then go more than half-a-mile away. We spent several enjoyable hours west, attempting peaks on the way and finally returning via the re-pegging the tents and holding on to the center pole in the Indrahar pass. Jangoo however was very skeptical of doing the Megamid. Our porters leaned out against their Nemo to keep Kundli pass because of the steepness and the massive late-spring it from being crushed. The storm stopped as suddenly as it had snowfall. However, we talked him into it and told him that in started, and the next morning the weather was very pleasant as the worst case we would simply turn back. We packed Sunday we entered the long snow gully that would take us to the top night. Each of our packs was about 33 pounds while the porters of the pass. carried almost 50 pounds each. The first thing we noticed on the ascent was the poor quality Monday morning was a late start because we had to purchase of the snow. It was basically unconsolidated corn or granular lunch (chappatis) and then drive 45 minutes to our starting snow that softened considerably later in the morning under a point. We finally got underway at 10 a.m. after picking up hot sun. Rustom and I put on crampons and, since the porters Praveen and Jangoo along the way. had none, the plan was for us to punch steps in the snow for We started at an elevation of about 5,000 feet and walked them. The route started on a gentle 25-degree slope and got for seven hours, finally progressively steeper until camping at a pair of caves it suddenly reached a flat formed by overhanging area. After this there were rocks called Manhoudi, at two gulliesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one straight an elevation of 8,000 feet. up and one diagonally off It was a very hot day for to the left. We chose this walking, but the scenery second one as our route was simply amazing. We since the first posed some passed through rhododanger of rockfall. On our dendron forests and other way up after the flat area, types of forests (I am we saw a very impressive botanically illiterate so I rockfall off the east wall cannot really name any of the gully about 150 feet trees) with very diverse away and 30 feet behind flora. I got stung by some us. After admiring this rather nasty nettles and for a bit, we continued Jangoo asked me to apply on. We got to the branch an herb growing in abunpoint before noon and dance nearby. Much to the heat was tremendous. my amusement, it turned Unfortunately, we also out that this was Bhang, a noticed clouds beginning hallucinogenic plant that Author, Jangoo, and Praveen contemplating the snow conditions. to boil off the top of the can either be smoked or Photo: Suresh Singh pass and the peaksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a sure eaten. sign of bad weather. Well, we did not After a very brief halt partake, though it did relieve the pain on my arm and leg. for water and granola bars, we started off. After walking for Jangoo cooked us fiddleheads that were in abundance around over an hour, we approached the last bit of the gully. The last us. Simply delicious! Since it was pleasant, we slept out in the 300 feet to the top of the pass was relatively steeper with less open and, in the morning, found a runaway sheep sharing our consolidated snow atop rocks. As a result, we began falling into campsite. Jangoo told us that there was a leopard about 165 deep holes between hidden rocks. The snow was quite waterfeet away at night, stalking the sheep, which had run to us for logged and did not make for easy walking; as a consequence, protection. Cool. we were post-holing at every other step. The last 20 minutes to We ate granola for breakfast with tea made with condensed the top were accomplished in a nasty thunderstorm that began milk and started by 7:30 a.m. We walked until after 3 p.m. to dumping more of the granular snow. I began hearing a buzzing an area called Khabrotu caves, which is at about 11,000 feet. sound and felt my hair being pulled painfully. The reason At this elevation there were no treesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just grass and alpine turned out to be the interaction between the enormous static plants. This was the first day we used tents and, much to my electricity in the air and the electricity generated by the friction embarrassment, I discovered that I had forgotten the pegs for of my hair rubbing against my woolen hat. the Megamid back in Portland! After the shock and ribbing had After we all made it up, I noticed that neither porter was subsided, I was deputized to make tent pegs out of some firewearing gloves. On inquiring, we were informed that they wood that was lying about. I spent a fun-filled hour whittling had left them behind due to weight, though they had brought away wood using the only knife we had. It is fortunate that I along a big transistor radio! This is a very common occurmade these pegs since they turned out to be very useful in the rence as porters often do not know what to bring along since

they have little technical experience. So it is very important to hard crust but did not hold our weight. We headed up nonethehound them about what they are carrying. Despite practically less, getting more concerned along the way. There were rocks packing their backpacks before handing them over, we found poking out of the snow in spots, calling for scrambling with ourselves in this hazardous predicament. I loaned a pair of crampons and making for an uncomfortable ascent because my warm glove liners to Praveen since Jangoo appeared to be more crampons were aluminum and I could just feel them getting cold-resistant. damaged. We were now in a hurry to find a campsite. The topography We attained a rocky patch 80 feet from the summit (15,000 on the north side was very different from the south where we feet) and faced a 40-degree snow slope. By now the sun had ascended. On the south, the mountains were steep, as were the been doing bad things to the snow and we made the decision to passes. On the north, they rolled off more gently into the far retreat. The risk of an avalanche was simply too great and rescue valleys of the Chamba region. Beyond that you can see some in such water-logged snow would have been treacherous since, of the higher peaks of the mid-Himalaya, including many as Rustom pointed out, this type of snow hardens quickly, well-known 8,000-meter ones. From the top of the pass we making it very difficult to dig someone out. There are also few headed west, looking for a relatively flat area. After walking rescue options in these mountains as we were completely alone another quarter-mile or so we stopped and dug two one-foot and no one really had any reason to come to that location. deep pits for the two tents. The porters promptly disappeared We did not have any way of communicating with the outside into their tent and later did not want any dinner. (They had world so in the event of an accident the porters would have to brought along biscuits and descend and notify the army. By other edibles, adding to their the time the army sent a rescue pack weight). Rustom was the party, anyone trapped in the After this experience, we snow would be long past help. designated stove master while I reached between the floor After this experience, we realrealized that the snow and roof of the Megamid ized that the snow conditions conditions this year were this year were atrocious all over for snow to melt and cook our pasta. This was another atrocious all over this range. this range. Indeed, we noticed mistake on my part—pasta many signs of recent avalanches is just not as good as soupy throughout the area. There was noodles in the mountains. considerable late-season storm There was no clear logic to activity with the result that all my choice, just that it was a last-minute decision (never shop these areas were covered in granular snow. On the north sides the day before you leave on a trip!). Rustom tended the stove the granular snow was about 1 cm in diameter, while on the for a couple of hours making water for all four of us and then steeper south sides the crystals were half a centimeter in diamcooking our food. This night was better than the last, with only eter. Weighing all this, we decided to scrap any further summit infrequent wind gusts and a bit of snowfall. attempts and head down to the Indrahar pass on the west. The next morning we had a minor rebellion on our hands: Therefore we broke camp and walked a couple of miles to The porters wanted to retreat to a cave below snowline on the where we thought the pass would be and set up camp. The north side for two days and then come back up for our return. porters were happy now since we were going down the next day. They were quite afraid of the snow and did not want to be in No more grumbling, though they confined themselves to their it. Also, Jangoo had suffered some minor snow blindness and tent. The next morning, Rustom and I decided to look for the had a headache, probably because he had declined to wear pass but could not find it. Jangoo then told us that he finally his goggles the previous day. His argument had been that the could see better and the pass was about another mile further snow was not pure white so it would not cause snow blindaway. We ate granola bars and water for breakfast and set out ness. Rustom and I debated what to do and in the end put with just one bottle of water each. We did not want to delay in off the decision for a bit. The problem, we realized, was that order to melt snow for water due to the rapid softening of the the porters would be unable to come back for us alone due to snow by the sun, as well as the late afternoon storms. snow conditions. So it was imperative that we stay together. We When we got to the pass, Jangoo looked over and refused heated condensed milk for tea and breakfast and made more to go down the south slope. He wanted to go north over the water for the porters. gentler slopes to a village a long day’s walk away and then take As a result, we started up a nearby peak at about 10 a.m.—a an overnight bus back. The problem was that the lip of this very poor decision because the sun had been heating the snow side of the pass was steep, perhaps as much as 50 degrees. The for three hours already. As we walked up the 30-40 degree snow terrain was mixed snow and rock turning to mainly snow or ice slope, we began talking about how poor the snow conditions further down. We convinced Jangoo and Praveen to descend were (much worse than at the pass). The top layer of snow by promising to belay them. Rustom set up an anchor at some consisted of 2-3 feet of unconsolidated corn snow. We had no rocks at the top and went first to scout out the conditions idea what lay underneath—very likely more of the same stuff below. I belayed Jangoo and Praveen down, then took off all with rotten ice crystals (formed by the melting water) holding the gear and cramponed down to them. Rustom continued on the whole mess together. We headed to a north-south ridge downwards looking for routes while I stayed with the porters to where the far side had not yet been heated by the sun. On help them down. Since setting up a solid anchor and belaying getting there we noticed that the snow on that side had a thin 100 feet at a time was simply impractical, we started a process

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whereby we would tie the rope to a sling on an ice axe and bury the axe in the snow (angled). Praveen would go first while holding the rope in one hand and an ice axe in the other. At the bottom he would kick out a platform in the snow. Jangoo would then follow, after which I would untie the rope and toss it down to him and walk down myself. We must have done this for about 1,600 feet until we encountered 30-degree snow slopes. After that the porters were happy to descend on their own and even glissaded for a bit. At this point, I was quite tired and dehydrated and caught myself glissading as well. I had gone about 300 feet before realizing that I still had my crampons on (albeit balled with snow). I self arrested but it took about 30 feet to accomplish this since the snow was so rotten. Then I continued walking down. Near the bottom of the pass the entire gully had a drop of 50 feet or so, creating a pretty but dangerous (for ignorant glissaders) obstacle. Camp from summit, looking northeast. We thus climbed the large rocks on the wall of the gully (after removing crampons) to circumvent this obstacle and then walked another half-mile to a campsite at 11,000 feet. There is a café at this point called the Snow Line Café. The reason for its presence is that this particular pass (or rather this campsite) is easily accessible over decent trails from Dharamsala far below, so it is a popular tourist destination. The Kundli pass we went up by is quite unknown and we were the first party to go through in a number of years. We enjoyed a dinner of rice, lentils and chappati at the café and decided to set up our Megamid. The porters, quite sensibly, decided to sleep in the shop itself as we were next hit by one of the worst windstorms in quite some time and literally saw our Megamid collapse with gear flying off the steep slope! Rustom and I sprinted to the tent, some 30 feet from the café, and pounced on it to stop it from following the runaway items. We hurriedly grabbed the tent and the packs and moved to the café. Unfortunately, we found that our ground sheet had ripped. OK, so now we were down to one tent, but that was fine since the porters were set for the night. We waited for about half an hour and, during a lull, ran out to set up the Nemo. We pegged it decently, then put our packs and ourselves in. The wind started up again, more viciously than before. This tent has two internal poles running the length of the tent and crossing in the center. We had set it up in a north-south direction and the wind was howling down from the north. We could hear a distant roar a half-minute before being hit by fierce gusts. The wind forced down the north side of the tent (where

my head was) to within a foot of the floor. This continued for a couple of hours until I heard a crack. One of the two poles had snapped and we had to act fast. We had already put on warm clothes and packed our gear earlier, except for the sleeping bags. I did that in a hurry as Rustom held the two pole pieces together. Then I ran with the backpacks and mats to the café, dumped the stuff inside and came back to help Rustom dismantle the tent without ripping the shell. We ended up sleeping sitting up on the floor of the café, where the only door (an entire wall) was a piece of strong nylon cloth tied everywhere with rope. In the wind storm, my crampon bag had also flown off. Luckily Rustom found it the next morning. We headed back to Dharamsala on Saturday, the sixth day of our trip, with unusable tents and a strong respect for Himalayan weather. Afterthoughts

By and large, the planning for this trip was reasonable with the exception of Photo: Suresh Singh forgetting tent pegs and using pasta instead of soupy noodles. However, bringing just one stove for cooking and melting snow was a problem. Unfortunately, it is a bad idea to give the porters the XGK because they will most certainly break it, having no experience in its use. A much better option would be stoves like the Jetboil that use gas canisters. Unfortunately we have yet to find a source for the Jetboil gas canisters in India and this problem is compounded because gas canisters cannot be transported by air. Some other random thoughts: Find a very lightweight harness and carry a 50m half-rope instead of a 30m one. This would allow longer belays. Also, the Megamid is a poor choice for snow camping despite its light weight unless you have good gear for sleeping exposed to the elements. It is also a good idea to carry an extra tent pole and it is best if the tent pole can be employed with the different tents being used. There is no need for ice screws at this altitude in the summer. Weight is a perpetual problem and I, for one, was carrying too much gear. There is really no need for extra gloves as an extra pair of socks serves as backup for mitts or socks. Extra warm underwear is also not required if you have waterproof outer wear. Finally, it is really important to stay on top of porters when they pack gear and make certain they carry the right gear. For example, our porters had adequate jackets for these conditions but they did not bring them along. The one factor that makes for a successful trip is having an adventure and we had plenty of that, with windstorms, bad weather and snow. Still, we’re looking forward to the next time! 

New Routes Climbing on Dome and South Gunsight Peaks By Jason Schilling

Nate Farr and I ventured into the Dome Peak area during an early September 2011 highpressure system and were able to climb a new route on the South Face of Dome Peak and a second ascent of the West Face of South Gunsight Peak. Dome, Sinister and the Gunsight Peaks are situated in some of the most remote and inaccessible terrain in the state of Washington, if not the contiguous United States. Since climbing Dome Peak on the tail-end of the Ptarmigan Traverse five years ago, I was interested in exploring the Gunsight Range and surrounding area. With a solid week of good weather forecast, we loaded up the packs and headed for the Suiattle River Road. The road is washed out approximately 10 miles from the Downey Creek Trail. Riding bikes the remaining 10 miles on the Suiattle River Road to Downey Creek Trail was not difficult and went quickly. Soon we reached trail’s end and headed up Bachelor Creek on an unmaintained climber’s path. Our spirits and energy faded with the daylight as we continuously lost the trail in the thick creek-side brush. We searched for a flat place to bivy, but the brush didn’t relent. We finally entered the forest as twilight faded and found a flat campsite. After a leisurely morning, we began the final push to high camp. We suffered with our heavy packs as we followed pink flagging through the woods and across the creek, where we picked up the trail. The path to Cub Pass continued through mud and up along the avalanche path at the headwaters of Bachelor Creek. At Cub Lake we caught our first glimpse of Dome Peak. With waning energy we traversed to the Dome Glacier and ascended to our high camp at the Dome-Chickamin Col. At the col camp we set up what would be home for the next three nights. There was plenty of snow for melting and great bivouac sites. We were exhausted from the two-day approach and went to bed early in anticipation of our climb of Dome Peak’s Southeast Face the next morning. Dome Peak is usually climbed from the south via the Dome Glacier. The southeast side is rarely visited and its face wasn’t climbed until Mike Layton and Wayne Wallace put up “Gran Torino” in 2009. By climbing to Dome Peak’s Main Summit, then rappelling and down-climbing the East Ridge, we reached the base of the South Face rather easily. The Gran Torino ascensionists mistakenly referred to this feature as the Southeast Face of the Southwest Peak, but it actually is the South Face of the Main Peak, according to the map and the Cascade Alpine Guide. The face ends at a peak marked “8786” on the USGS map, which is technically the Southeast Peak of Dome, although not named as such in the guidebooks. The bottom half of the South Face is a system of grassy ledges and slabs that provide easy access to the base of the tech-

Indian Summer Profile.

Photo: Jason Schilling

nical climbing. We walked past the beginning of Gran Torino and continued on the ledge to the broad South Buttress, scouting for a new route. The route commenced with climbing on mid-5th-class terrain with solid rock. The angle steepened with the third pitch and Nate led through some loose rock to an airy belay below a difficult roof and leaning crack. The next three pitches delivered the goods: solid, steep climbing on great granite. Nate led through the crux chimney

on the fifth pitch, which was consistently steep with great stemming. He exited the chimney onto a ridge crest. I took over the lead and was greeted with a nice flourish to the route. An aesthetic jagged hand-crack led to an arete and another nice hand-crack on the other side. A short pitch led to the end of the technical climbing and we scrambled to the summit. The descent to camp was a walk-off that took less than five minutes. In honor of the lateseason high-pressure system, we named our new route Indian Summer. We celebrated the climb with whiskey and Marcona almonds as the sun set on another perfect day in the North Cascades. We awoke to a fair morning and decided to take advantage of the weather. To the best of our knowledge, the West Face of Gunsight’s South Peak had not yet been climbed. Upon return we learned of a prior ascent that followed a very similar (if not identical) line. We descended the massive Chickamin glacier on the north side of Dome Peak and wandered our way through crevasses en route to the fabled Gunsight Range. We dead-ended in an icefall and had to backtrack to descend the Chickamin glacier near Sinister Peak. As we approached the face, what seemed like splitter cracks from afar appeared instead as shallow, thin cracks. We settled on a chimney starting on the left side of the face. The climb up this feature was fun, with good stemming on solid rock. I belayed at a bush as Nate led out of sight, aiming for the grassy ledge that bisected the face and led to the dihedral that punctuated the upper portion of the route. Before Nate could reach the ledge he encountered some bad rock. After moments of silence, I asked “Nate, are you building an anchor?” “No, I’m just trying to survive,” was his reply, as he delicately tiptoed through loose terrain. Relieved, he reached the ledge. A short traversing pitch led to the base of the dihedral, which looked difficult. Nate led it with caution and grace past two cruxes. The first was a short lie-back on a large block that didn’t seem to be attached from my vantage point. The climbing was exhilarating and a little scary. The second crux involved delicate face climbing to surmount a roof. I led a short pitch of easy, but horrendous, rock to the summit of South Gunsight Peak. The euphoria of the previous day’s climb had given way to a bitter aftertaste and disappointment that the face had not delivered the incredible rock that the Gunsights were famous for. We rappelled down the gully to the glacier and began the

Top: Gunsight Chimney Left: West Face, Gunsight South Peak.

Photo:Jason Schilling

long climb back up the Chickamin Glacier to camp. As I trudged up the glacier, I wondered if anyone had ever climbed or even tried to climb the gigantic Southeast Ridge of Old Guard, which dominated our view to the south. We were feeling the effects of four days of continuous motion and decided that we would hike out the next day. We passed our last night at the col trying to finish the whiskey and any other heavy food items. We were blessed with another bluebird day on the hike out. It went quicker than expected, taking about nine hours to get from the col to our car. The bike ride on the Suiattle River road was mostly downhill and a relief. The heat in the lowlands was shocking as we picked up the beer we had stashed in Downey Creek. Nate and I were grateful to have had the opportunity to explore this remote section of the North Cascades. We didn’t see a soul for five days and were fortunate to have perfect lateseason weather for the entire trip. Indian Summer: Dome Peak, South Buttress: Grade II, 5.8, 1,800 ft. Gunsight South Peak, West Face: Grade II, 5.9, 1,000 ft. 

Fire on the Mazama Trail A Savior in the Wilderness by Rick Pope

Early in the morning of August 26, 2011, I made my way up Highway 26 heading toward Mt. Hood. As I passed through Sandy, overnight thunderstorms with a few flashes of lightning were moving away. An hour later, I was setting up camp at the Mazama Trail trailhead under clear and sunny skies and the northwest face of the mountain was out in full glory. Shortly, I was joined by Linda Castor and then Ed Rea, who would be my sole partners for the next three days as we worked on the annual maintenance project to keep our namesake trail cleared of trees, brush and water damage. As we were driving up that morning, a lightning strike ignited a small stand of trees near Elk Cove, a few miles to the east. Little did we know that just two days after we finished the project, east winds would carry the fire-line four miles in one day right up to the edge of the trail! Originally constructed decades ago, the Forest Service bestowed the trail with the name of the feature it largely follows, Cathedral Ridge. Despite a less-than-ideal route in places, it was still an enjoyable path to the Timberline Trail, and one which avoided the much more crowded Bald Mountain Ridge area. Growing up in a hiking family, I still have memories of the old trail as I tagged along with mom and dad. During the winter of 1985–1986, strong windstorms came in from the east and toppled exposed trees on the crest of Cathedral Ridge. The trail closely followed the crest and thus was hopelessly blocked by hundreds of logs for seven years. The Forest Service, citing lack of funds and time, essentially abandoned the trail and user trails started showing up to bypass the worst of the damage. But these trails could never match the pleasure of hiking the original track. In 1992, a number of Mazamas began contemplating ways Mazama Trail fire damage. to celebrate our 100th anniversary, in 1994. Ray Sheldon suggested asking the Forest Service to rename the Timberline Trail in honor of the Mazamas. The USFS thought that plan was a bit too grand, but it got them to thinking. They finally came back with a counter-offer: If we would agree to

repair the Cathedral Ridge Trail, they would name it after our organization. Ray began to make contacts and started working with Kevin Slagle, Hood River Ranger District Recreation Ranger and Roger Bell, Mt. Hood Forest Trails Engineer. They discussed a new route and made numerous field trips to the area. Eventually, a private contractor named Jim Angell was hired to help train Mazama workers while Roger provided oversight. Once the team was up and running to his satisfaction, he let go of the reins and they went full speed ahead. While the trail was routed a bit farther from the edge of the ridge in places, it did little to mitigate the long hours spent hand sawing out hundreds of trees. To this day, the old timers refer to this stretch as “whipsaw alley” for the backbreaking work of using two-man, flexible crosscut saws. By the late summer of 1994, a good part of the trail was cleared and construction had started. The USFS officially dedicated the Mazama Trail on September 10 of that year, thus meeting our goal to have the trail named in our honor during the centennial year. Work parties continued until 1997, fine-tuning the tread and improving several rockslide crossings and racking up impressive statistics: 250 individuals working a total of 6,888 hours on the trail. Since that final construction party, Ray Sheldon has organized and led a three -to-four-day maintenance trip every year Photo: Rick Pope to keep the trail in top shape. This doesn’t count the time he also put in scouting the trail each year, assessing the work to be done, and a final check of water drains before the snow flies. This year, for the first time since completion, Ray was unable to join the work party. Fortunately, the three of us who

Mazama Trail fire in Heather Meadows.

Photo: Rick Pope

were able to make it have several years of experience working the trail and have gotten to know it pretty well. Following tradition, we shouldered a crosscut saw on the first day and worked our way up the trail, clearing out deadfall and branches from the winter storms. We were lucky this time that only eight trees needed attention, so we snipped brush and worked the upper drains on our way back down. We returned on Saturday, September 3, to our quitting spot and again worked downhill to the cars. This time there was more foot traffic and, as often happens, passing hikers paused to give their thanks for keeping this wonderful access open for all to use. By Sunday we were able to concentrate on just the first mile of trail and do more brushing and gravel restoration. As we packed up from the long weekend, a curl of smoke was still visible to the east, but we had gotten no word on the cause or how close it really was. On September 3, following several days of cooler weather, the temperature rose and strong east winds fanned up the blaze. The fire had already grown to 1,000 acres and was rapidly rising up the priority scale for the Forest Service. Hot-shot crews from Zig Zag and LaGrande were soon joined by fire fighters from Mt. Shasta and New Mexico. With the fire rapidly advancing, the Zig Zag crew on Vista Ridge was suddenly evacuated as the flames broke over the ridge. By the end of the day, the fire was nearly 5,000 acres in size. Next in the line of the fire was Cathedral Ridge, and crews were already using the Mazama Trail to try to establish a western fire-line to stop the advance. Trees were dropped on the east side of the trail in places to deprive the fire of crowning fuel as it

came up the ridge. For the most part, the strategy worked and several “spike camps” were hastily erected in the heather meadow area about three miles up the trail. Heavier fire-fighting tools including hoses, bladders and pumps, were flown in by helicopter, which required some trees on the edge of the meadow to be cut for safety. During the next several days, the pumps were set up at a creek source just downhill from the Timberline Trail and over 30,000 feet of hose was strung along the tread that fed temporary bladders called “pumpkins.” These could store useful amounts of water at strategic places along the trail if the hose was damaged by fire or tools. Despite all these efforts, the trail was not fully spared. Fires broke over the trail in several places and spot fires were ignited west of the ridge in the McGee Creek drainage. Aerial suppression efforts included water drops by helicopter and several retardant drops from fixed-wing craft. Rock slides burned as lichens and hidden mosses smoldered. The spot fires were quickly contained but current estimates place about 20 percent of the Mazama Trail in the burned-over area. By September 17, the spike camps were folded up and mop-up efforts continued from a base camp at the trailhead. Once the hot spots were out, a smaller crew worked on rehabilitating the trail as best they could by cutting out deadfall, establishing some water drains and fixing the tread where it received the worst damage. On October 7, Ray Sheldon and I paid a visit to the USFS office in Parkdale and spoke at length with Dan Gilfillen, District Recreation Ranger, about the fire and future efforts to restore the trail as best we could. One point made several times was that the Mazama Trail had played a crucial role in stopping this blaze from heading toward the Bull Run Reserve and having a clear and well-graded access trail greatly assisted the fire-fighting efforts. Until that time I had been dismayed that our three-day work party was all for nothing. I see now that the time we put in did some good after all. Depending on how the budget priorities develop next season for the Hood River R.D., officials may be able to get a professional crew to assist with further restoration efforts, but there is no guarantee. We have come to realize in recent years that our traditional work parties for this trail are not attracting enough volunteers. This year, if it weren’t for Linda Castor coming all the way from New Mexico, we wouldn’t have met the minimum work-party size of three. Our only choice would have been to officially cancel the trip and proceed with two of us as a private workforce. We really are in need of future volunteers! This coming year, we plan a new approach with daily departures from Portland, more leaders and lots of options to make the trips as flexible as possible. We expect the winter damage this season to be the worst since the major blow-downs of 25 years ago due to weakened trees and lack of vegetation to keep the soils in place. Having a large pool of volunteers is the only way we will save this trail for the future enjoyment of all. Please consider helping out next summer as we make the announcements!

Footnote: A more detailed history of this trail can be found in the 1994 through 1998 Mazama Annuals. There is also a DVD titled “The Construction of Mazama Trail” available in the Mazama Library. 

The Mountaineer’s Route on Mt. Whitney by Larry Beck

When I was growing up, I learned that California’s Mt. Whitney was the highest point in the United States, rising some 14,505 feet above sea level. Now it isn’t. It’s not that Whitney got shorter, just that the United States got bigger when Alaska became the 49th state in 1959. Mt. McKinley/Denali is now the big dog. Whitney is a peak with an asterisk: tallest peak in the lower 48 but not in all of the United States. Some luster lost, but still an impressive peak. This past June I joined fellow Mazamas Tom Davidson, free. We had a week-long weather window as well. Everything Bridget Martin, Karl and Dian Helser and Annie Lamberto seemed to be falling into place. for a trip south to the Sierra to climb Whitney via the MounWe had our last in-town pre-climb meal at a westerntaineer’s Route. En route we would spend some time acclimathemed restaurant with walls filled with photos of actors tizing, first at Yosemite and then near the White Mountains famous and forgotten, in cowboy hats and chaps who had sat east of the Sierra in the Ancient Bristlecone Forest, before in our seats over the past decades. Final grocery store, coffee heading to the trailhead. and ice-cream stops were made and we drove west the final 11 We travelled down I-5 south past Mt. Shasta (waving at miles to Whitney Portal and our car camp for the night. From Daniel Bailey and his Mazama team who were beginning their Lone Pine, elevation 3,730 feet, we gained 4,600 feet in our Shasta climb), and Sacramento, then Stockton. We broke vehicles to the portal’s 8,365 feet. The final 6,140 feet to the from the freeway and headed east toward Copperopolis and summit we would gain the old-fashioned way—on foot. For Groveland. We set up tents in the dark at a campground 30 me, it is always at this point that the climb becomes real. It’s miles outside Yosemite so we could enter the park early the no longer about planning, wondering or speculating about the next morning. unknown. We would be on that trail in a matter of hours. It had been a record snow year in the Sierra and there was Our plan was to spend Sunday night at Whitney Portal some question about whether roads and trails would be open and leave mid-Monday morning for our base camp at Upper in time at Yosemite to let us traverse the park from east to west. Boy Scout Lake, about 3,000 feet of elevation gain. We Fortunately, they opened the week before we left. We didn’t would either rest on Tuesday or make it our first summit day, have much time to spend in the park, but got in two day hikes. depending on the weather and how we felt. This would leave We hiked the Four-Mile Trail up to Glacier Point, featuring Wednesday as our fall-back summit day or we might climb the classic view of Half Dome to the north, then down 9 miles neighboring Mt. Russell, another 14er, more rugged but lesser past the trio of Vernal, Nevada and Mist Falls, with the river known, just east of Whitney. raging and The Mountaineer’s Route mist soaking us. The next We arrived at the portal, set up camp, loaded food into bear morning we hiked to Lower Yosemite Falls, paused to watch boxes and headed to the portal store for showers and dinner the big-wall climbers on El Capitan—tiny specs clinging to before turning in. The mosquitoes feasted on us while we the sheer rock face—and then drove out of the park and south waited for our meal. I had not planned to take Diamox, but through Bishop and Big Pine. We camped that night in the White Mountains at 9,000 feet and hiked the next day among the ancient pines at 10,000 feet at the Schulman Grove Visitor Center, continuing our acclimatization. That afternoon we headed south down the valley to the town of Lone Pine at the base of the Alabama Hills, where so many Hollywood westerns were filmed from the 1940s to the 1970s, and the jumping-off spot for all Whitney east-side climbers. It was late June, and very hot, nearly 100 degrees in the heat of the day. We checked in at the ranger station for an update on conditions. The snow on the route had receded to the point that we would not need to carry snowshoes, a relief because we could dump the extra weight and bulk. The Ebersbacher Ledges, or E-ledges, the first challenge on the route to Lower Boy Scout Lake, were likewise snow- Team at the summit of Mt. Whitney with Smithsonian Shelter and Sierra in background. Photo: Larry Beck

Top: Annie ascends steep snow up to Iceberg Lake—Whitney Summit in Back Bottom: Team at the Whitney Summit Photos: Karl Helser

others were doing so and had extra pills so I joined in. Diamox had its diuretic effect on me. Coupled with my pre-climb hydrating, I was up often that night. My tent was located next to the bear box, maybe not the best idea in retrospect. Every time I came back from the porta-potty, the rear tire on Karl’s pickup looked like a black bear lying in wait for me. We did not need to make an early start on Monday, so we had breakfast at the portal store, with giant elephant-ear-sized pancakes, bacon and coffee. The trailhead, located less than 100 yards from the portal store, has a scale for weighing packs. I won

with 50 pounds. Tom was incredulous—how could my pack weigh that much? Tom is a master at packing light. Everyone else was in the lower to mid-40s. I was envious. The trail for the Mountaineer’s Route, about 11 miles round trip, the longer but nontechnical Whitney Trail, and the 5th-class rock climbs next to the Mountaineer’s Route all depart from the same location. The trails for the MR and the WT diverge three-quarters of a mile in at North Lone Pine Creek. Here we made a silly and costly navigational error we all should have spotted. After a couple of miles and 1,500 feet or so of elevation gain on the Whiney Trail, we finally recognized our error and backtracked to the correct turnoff. It was now decision time since we had wasted the morning: continue on up the right trail or head back to camp and try again earlier tomorrow. Tired, hot and with the hardest part of the day still ahead of us, we opted for the Tuesday re-start. I was discouraged, but realized the next day that we had made the right call. We re-grouped in camp. I lightened my pack by a few pounds. Learning our lesson from Monday, and to avoid the heat, we started much earlier on Tuesday. At the North Lone Pine Creek stream crossing the trail steepened, first through trees and brush, with numerous stream crossings. We continued up and reached the base of the E-ledges on the north side of the canyon. The ledges are solid granite with good footing and handholds, class 3-4 rock; but with heavy packs and narrow ledges with more than 100 feet of exposure, they are not to be taken lightly. We put trekking poles away to free up our hands for the climb. Clearing the ledges, we expressed relief. We were now above the willows and followed the trail up through rocky terrain to our cool rest spot at Lower Boy Scout Lake at 10,200 feet. We began to see our objective as the jagged peaks of Mt. Russell and Mt. Whitney appeared to the north. Lone Pine could still be seen down the valley in the distance. We found our first snow on the route at the west side of Lower Boy Scout Lake as we prepared to ascend the final 1,000 feet to our planned base camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake. Snow on the route made the trip up to the upper lake much easier than it would have otherwise been over the boulders and scree that lay below. The footing was good and we kicked steps easily in the softening snow without needing crampons. As we climbed, the snow gave way to exposed trail and large, flat granite slabs with snow-melt water pouring over them as we ascended. We next headed for Clyde Meadow, a small grove of trees just below Upper Boy Scout Lake, which provides some protection from the wind and also some much-needed shade. We arrived at our camp in the early afternoon at 11,230 feet. Does that elevation sound familiar? Our base camp was at almost the same elevation as the summit of Mt. Hood. Our acclimatization continued. We set up tents in the few level dirt patches between the granite and snow which still predominated at this elevation. The warm granite slabs invited us to recline and we took advantage. We ate, relaxed, drank in the views and continued to hydrate. With the warm temperatures and cloudless sky, the snow continued to melt, with ice sheets dropping off the rocks to the west of our camp in big chunks. Soon all the snow would be gone. Karl wandered up to the lake and beyond. I followed and we met up at the camp of an REI/Shasta Mountain Guides group that was camped above us and had just returned from

the summit shortly after we arrived. One other group of two granite as we turned north. Whitney, a black silhouette at first, climbers also descended but did not stop. The REI group now glowed pink directly ahead of us as day broke. At dawn we departed the next day and we had the lake to ourselves. were halfway to Iceberg Lake. We turned east and continued We enjoyed late afternoon hors d’oeuvres of crackers, cheese, up on steep snow to the lake, at 12,600 feet, where we took salami and boxed wine and discussed our plans. We decided that a clothing break, ate some food, loaded up on sunscreen and Wednesday would be our summit day. After dinner we went to readied for our ascent of the chute to the notch. bed early to prepare for a 3 a.m. wake-up call. The chute, narrow and close to a mile long, is a sustained I had borrowed Karl’s Big Agnes single-person tent for the 35-plus degree mixed snow and rock climb, and represents the trip. I found a tight spot between rocks and gnarly trees and crux of the climb. It is flanked to the west by the 5th-class rock tied it down to the trees routes to the summit, including and staked it out. This the East Buttress, and to the east was a good thing as that by more steep rock. When the night the wind howled snow melts, this would become a Then the route steepdown the valley and scree-filled bowling alley. For us, ened. There was still some through our camp, threatthe snow was the glue that held it ening to blow us off the all together. With ice axes in hand, snow and ice among the rock. Tom came around we wove up the chute in the bright rocks so we climbed carefully. Faces at our wake-up time to sun, looking back south to the stillgive us the weather report; frozen Iceberg Lake getting smaller reddened and fingers stiffened in the we reached a decision to and smaller. We lost the snow 400 chill—nothing too serious, but the long delay our departure to feet from the top of the chute. We see if the wind would die remained close to each other to run-out grabbed our attention and kept down in the next hour or reduce the risk of rock fall building us focused on our feet and hands. so. It didn’t. The weather up speed between climbers. We report—available on reached the notch, exhaled a bit, Bridget’s iPhone—called dropped our packs and took a wellfor 40-50 mph winds at the summit. We decided to wait a day. deserved break. Here the view opened up to the north and east. As late afternoon arrived, we saw our first clouds of the week. At 14,000 feet, the summit was now just 500 vertical feet away. The wind had shifted and was now coming from the east. Large As we rounded the corner from the notch and headed west thunderheads began to fill the sky. The weather report suggested up the 4th-class scramble to the summit, we lost the sun and its rain overnight and into Thursday. We were down to our last warmth. Then the route steepened. There was still some snow day and it looked like our summit bid was slipping through and ice among the rocks so we climbed carefully. Faces reddened our fingers. My thoughts turned to our lost day on Monday. and fingers stiffened in the chill—nothing too serious, but the That error might have cost us the summit. Even if we did climb long run-out grabbed our attention and kept us focused on our tomorrow, we would have to return to camp, pack up and head feet and hands. We finally gained the summit, a flat plateau of out to the trailhead all in one long day. large chunky granite and, like a scene out of the Sound of Music, Overnight we caught a break—the rain held off and the wind we all clasped hands and walked together to the actual top-most died. We awoke at 4 a.m. to clear skies and firm snow. We were point. Hugs and high fives followed. Our acclimatization paid in crampons and headlamps right out of camp. We followed our off as no one on our team suffered any altitude sickness. footsteps from the day before through mixed snow and exposed We dropped packs, enjoyed the sun, took in the views,

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Looking north from Lower Boy Scout Lake, Whitney in distance right of center

Photo: Larry Beck

Mt. Whitney, continued from previous page explored the stone Smithsonian Institution Shelter built in 1909 and signed the summit register. A group of four climbers who had come up the Whitney Trail were there when we arrived. They left shortly and we had the summit to ourselves. When you are at the summit of the tallest mountain around for thousands of miles, nothing blocks your view. I drank it in, trying to imprint this image permanently in my brain. If that failed, I always had my camera. We descended by the same route, back in to the shadows and cool temperatures. We protected the first bit of the down-climb, which still had ice and snow on it. Tom built an anchor and Karl led out with Tom and I taking turns belaying him to the next anchor. The rest of us prusiked across and down on a hand-line until we returned to bare rock, which we easily down-climbed. Back at the notch and into the sun again, we removed layers and began our descent down the chute. The snow had softened considerably as we plunged-stepped down until we got to the point where we could safely glissade down towards Iceberg Lake. Near the lake, the temperature picked up again in the early afternoon. We were now down to shirt sleeves, slathering on the sunscreen and drinking up. We glissaded and hiked down from Iceberg Lake, making good time back to camp. Unfortunately, we learned on the way down in passing other climbers on their way up that varmints had vandalized our camp, getting into the trash we had hung from the trees to keep it away from them (next time we will bury it in the snow). We reached camp by mid-afternoon.

After a short break to drink, eat and change socks and clothes, we broke camp, saddled up and began the descent back to the portal. We reached the portal three hours later, close to 7:30 p.m., still with plenty of light just a week past the summer solstice, but with the sun below the surrounding peaks. It would be a short night at our motel in Lone Pine as we had to be up early to start the drive back. We were on the road at 4 a.m. From Lone Pine we skirted the Sierras, passed through Reno, the Lassen National Forest, and stopped for lunch at the Black Bear Café in Shasta City before the final monotonous slog up I-5 to Portland. I realized once we arrived back in Portland that our summit day and return to the portal the day before, a 13-plus-hour day, was the same length as our 700-plus-mile return drive from Lone Pine to Portland. The climb may have tested our legs and lungs, but the return drive sorely tested my rear end. At the beginning of this story I mentioned Whitney as the peak with an asterisk. After the climb, it seems unfair to diminish this grand peak with an asterisk. The highest point in the continental United States, taller than Mt. Rainier, taller than Mt. Shasta, and 3,000 feet taller than anything in Oregon, is deserving of more respect. But if the asterisk must be there, then let it be there for this reason: to denote a peak that you need to add to your “must climb” list. Mt. Whitney, Mountaineer’s Route, 6,140 ft., Grade II, snow to 35 degrees, rock to upper 4th-class. 

Lotus Flower Tower, continued from page 15 it into the anchor in preparation for Brad to release and throw down the other end. At one point I heard Darrell and Scott both yell “rock!” and flattened myself against the wall. I heard Brad scream “ouch” but fortunately it wasn’t a direct hit, glancing off his helmet and bruising his shoulder. Before long, I recognized that I was at the top of the third pitch, almost down. Descending from that anchor I could practically see the ground below me. I started to tell myself, “Stay focused, just one more rappel after this, do not screw it up now.” Just then, as I swung under a large roof, I heard the whoosh of a falling rock. It was very large and it passed within 10 feet of me on its way to the rocky slope below. I heard it crash and explode into smaller pieces and then wondered why no one had called out “rock.” I figured that it must have become dislodged when someone above me threw or pulled their rope. Lucky for me I was under that roof. Now I was even more focused on getting to the ground safely. I reached the bottom of the route around 1:30 a.m. and went straight for our 2-liter stash of water. It was difficult restraining myself, but I only drank my share of half a liter. The rest of the team was on the ground before 2 a.m. All of the info that we had read warned us to expect six hours for rappelling the route. Considering the time it took to free our stuck rope, the four of us had done it in under four hours. We gathered up the gear that Scott had so neatly organized and hidden under a large boulder to the side. Then we began the painful trek through the dark across the boulder fields and

back down to base camp. We reached camp at 4:30 a.m., just as it was beginning to get light again. Everyone else set about fixing breakfast to assuage their hunger but I just crawled into my sleeping bag. After 46 hours straight of highly-focused activity on less than 30 minutes of sleep, it didn’t take long before I was out. Later that morning I woke up to the sun baking my tent. I couldn’t stand the heat anymore so I got up to fix myself something to eat. A contingent of other climbers came over to congratulate us. Mark and Janelle were among the group. They were very enthusiastic and claimed that they had watched us during our entire ascent and harrowing descent in the dark. They were also very sincere in telling us how glad they were that we made it up and back safely. We found out later that they had taken Darrell’s joking about his climbing experience (only in the rock gym) seriously and thought that we were a bunch of inexperienced rookies who had no business attempting something as dangerous as this for our first climb outside. There was even a bet going around camp about whether we were going to make it or not! This was a phenomenal climb—a trip of a lifetime. I will never forget this experience or the people I shared it with. I would like to give thanks to my climbing partners and the Mazama Expedition Committee for helping bring this dream to reality. Lotus Flower Tower, SE Face: 2,180 ft., 18 pitches up to 5.11 or 5.10-, A2. 

A First Ascent in Africa on the Way to the Roof of the Continent Lava Tower, Tanzania, Africa by Ryan Christie

I led a Mazama outing to Africa for an ascent of Mt. Kilimanjaro and a Serengeti safari in March 2011. In planning this trip I coordinated lodging, guides and everything else through my good friend from high school, Donovan Pacholl, the owner of Embark Travel. He had climbed the mountain a number of times and gave me many important details about every step of the way. When he told me about Lava Tower and that I could climb it on our rest day there, I was intrigued. When he told me that everyone who goes up Lava Tower ascends a 4th-class scramble route up the back side but almost no one climbs anywhere else on it, I was hooked! I made sure that everyone in our party who wanted to climb the tower packed their harnesses, helmets and rock shoes. Lava Tower is a vertical protrusion of volcanic rock rising skyward out of the side of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. It is an imposing castle of rock that at first sight looks quite technical. It is located at 15,100 feet on the way up the western side of Kilimanjaro. Climbers heading to the summit of Kili via the Lemosho route up the Western Breach will spend one or two nights camped at the base of Lava Tower. You may also get to see it on a lunch stop on Kili or in passing if you are climbing the Shira or Machame routes.

be enough to protect the climb. We booked our trip through Embark Adventures. They recommend and exclusively climb via the Western Breach. Route Description

When we arrived after our hike up from Shira 2 camp at 13,000 feet, I was eager to scout routes to climb. Four of us set out to find a couple of gems. We headed around the north side first and immediately found two different dihedrals high on the face that looked interesting, one of which promised exceptionally clean and challenging climbing. The next day part of our group set out on a hike and a

Logistics

If you are planning to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, this impressive feature is a must-see. The Lemosho route to the Western Breach is the most exciting way to climb Kili, with the added benefit of camping at the base of Lava Tower. If you choose to climb by another route, consider either the Shira or the Machame routes and make sure your guide does a detour to see the tower up close. During the preparations for our Mt. Kilimanjaro climb, we strategically planned to spend two nights and one rest day camped at the base of Lava Tower. This would allow us to spend some time scouting and rock climbing different routes up it. Since it was suggested to me ahead of time that no one does this, I planned to make the most of it. It would be a very cool way to spend an acclimatization rest day. We packed two 60-meter ropes, a bunch of slings and 窶話iners, some nuts and tricams, hoping this would

400-ft. high Lava Tower at 15,100 ft. on Mt. Kilimanjaro. Photo: Ryan Christie

couple of our group stayed in their tents, not feeling well. Scott Morrison and I grabbed our gear and scrambled to the summit via the 4th-class approach route. Once on top, we built an

anchor to belay on and I had Scott lower me while I cleaned the route of all loose rock and boulders. There were quite a few land mines (rocks), so this took a while but was a must. Once that was completed, it was time to climb. The route starts next to a new-looking anchor bolt with a shiny hanger that is the first of three used to set up a hand-line to protect the 4th-class scramble route on the northwest side of the tower. From this bolt I climbed straight up over a bulge and angled up and left underneath the obvious protruding buttress. Climbing 5.6 to 5.7 face holds up the left side of this buttress, the jagged crack on the right could be used for some clever gear placements. I made my way through some chossy rock until I was standing on the ledge at the base of a smooth, almost featureless leftfacing dihedral. The crack in the center of the dihedral was hand-sized for good jams, but it was chock full of black moss and lichen. When I started my sequence of hand jams, my hand kept slipping out. It took three or four tries before I had cleared away enough lichen to make solid contact with the rock beneath. In so doing, however, I created a cloud of black dust that covered my face and upper body. Due to the altitude, I was also sucking in large quantities of oxygen while at the same time sucking in large quantities of this airborne miasma! To make matters worse, with the exception of one small ledge for my left foot, there was nowhere for footholds because the walls on either side of me dropped away in a smooth sheen. At sea level this may have been considered 5.9 climbing, but with all of the slippery lichen and the 15,000 plus altitude, I give this section a grade of 5.10-. By the time I jammed my way to the top of this crux feature of the route, I found a knob of rock to the right to match on, and another matching option higher on the left at the top of the wall. After I pulled over the bulge at the top of the dihedral and stood up on a large blocky area, I stopped and gasped for breath for no less than five minutes. Unless you’ve done it before, you have no idea how much harder it is to do this kind of climbing at altitude! After that, the route moves up through a narrowing chimney with 5.7 to 5.8 climbing. At one point the rock pushes you out and you have to really look around to find anything positive to grab. The cracks here are very thin and will only take very small gear. A little bit of stemming and a mantle or two later I found myself on the upper slabby section of the route. From here, I climbed straight to the top on 5.6 blocks; an alternative route was to go out to the left and wander up a 5.5 friction slab. Big blocks at the top of the route made it easy to build a belay anchor because we had sufficiently-long slings. After we completed our climb, our guides Freddy and Leonce from Real Life Adventure Travel told us that in over 20 years of guiding on Kili, they had never seen anyone attempt to climb on the north face of Lava Tower. That made us feel really good about what we had just accomplished.

Scott Morrison climbing the 5.7 section below the crux, overhanging dihedral. Photo: Assistant guide, Sabas.

Route Details

The length of the technical part of this route is approximately 200 feet so it requires a full 60-meter rope to climb it in one pitch. It’s a bit run-out but clever placements of nuts, tricams or cams (3-inch or smaller) will protect it well enough to be fun and safe. Be careful of the rock quality in some places. This is volcanic rock (as in parts of our home ranges) and some sections are less solid than others. Beware the portable handholds! We named the route “Big Bunny” for fun because of the cereal that we had for breakfast that morning. It has a picture of a large cartoon rabbit, resembles corn flakes and is considered by the manufacturer “brain food” that helps “promote good concentration.” The whole group got a kick out of the side panel that gave four-step instructions on how to properly eat your cereal! We thought that it took a lot of concentration to stay on task and complete this route at 15,000 feet so “Big Bunny” became the name of our new route. Summary: Lava Tower, Tanzania; “Big Bunny”: 200 ft., Class I, grade 5.10-. 

A Look Back at Women’s Climbing by C. H. Sholes

The following is a brief aside from the article The 1908 Perilous Ascent of St. Helens, by C. H. Sholes, printed in the 1923 Annual. “I state the number of women [on the climb] merely as an interesting fact, and in no least derogatory or apologetic sense. On the contrary, I wish to bear witness to the truth that the women of the club have always, within the limits of their physical ability, proved themselves the equal of men in climbing; and in those higher qualities of courage, patient endurance, and calmness in the face of danger, both sexes stand on the same plane. No other occasion within my knowledge ever demands an equal exhibition of the power of mind of matter.” Editor’s note: We are indebted to Vera Dafoe for submitting this extract from an article by C.H. Sholes in the Mazama Annual of 1923.

Right: Women who climbed Mt. McLoughlin with the Mazamas during the 1896 outing to Crater Lake. The woman in the bottom center is Fay Fuller, first female correspondent for a major newspaper in the Pacific Northwest and first woman to climb Mt. Rainier. Photo: Benjamin A. Gifford Below: Women in full dresses postholing up Mt. Dana, Sierra Nevada Mountains. Photo: Rodney Glisan

Top left: ASI Rope Rigging.

Photo: Wim Aarts

Bottom left: 2011 BCEP Team at Horsethief Butte. Photo: Bob Breivogel Opposite Page: Mt. Stuart, North Ridge.

Photo: Vaqas Malik

Top right: 2011 BCEP Team mock climb. Bottom right: Tunnel Falls.

Photos:

Bob Breivogel

Top left: Colorado 14’ers outing—Cloudy Sears on the ledges on Longs Peak, Keyhole Route. Top right: Cactus blooms, Death Valley.

Photos: Bob Breivogel

Above: 2011 Khumbu Trek and Imja Tse Climb—Base Camp. Photo: Jim Ronning

Top: Sunrise below Crater Rock during a December Mt. Hood climb. Photo: Andrew Holman Above: Mazamas Kevin Clark and Ryan Christie on the summit of Kilimanjaro. Photo: Unknown Right: Sherpa Peak, South Route, summit block. Photo: Bob Breivogel

Landscape Context and Long-term Tree Influences Shape the Dyanmics of Forestto-Meadow Transition Zones in Mountain Ecosystems by Ryan D. Haugo, Charles B. Halpern, and Jonathon D. Bakker Edited by Barry Maletzky METHODS

Note: This research was partially funded by the Mazama Research Committee.

In 1983, 21 transects were established across forest-tomeadow transition zones spanning a range of elevations (lower-elevation montane sites to higher-elevation subalpine sites), landforms (wet to dry) and vegetation types. Transects were 2 meters (m) wide and ranged in length from 50-220 m. Each originated in closed-canopy forest and extended into open meadow beyond any tree invasion. In 1983 and 1993, all trees within each transect were spatially mapped, measured for diameter, and aged to reconstruct the history of tree invasion at each site. In 1 x 1 m plots on alternating sides of each transect we estimated the abundance (foliage cover) of each plant species and the cover of overstory (canopy) trees. In 2009, we repeated these measurements. Along each transect, we delineated three habitats: forest, transitional and meadow, based on tree age and cover. Forest was defined by the presence of trees that had been established prior to 1900 and by continuous canopy cover. The transitional habitat was defined as the area between forest and meadow, which represents former meadow into which conifers had become established during the 20th century. Meadow was defined by the absence of trees. We used a variety of statistical techniques, including ordination and multiple regression, to characterize changes in the ground vegetation (cover and diversity of meadow and forest species) over the study period, and how these related to variations in climate (temperature, precipitation, and snowpack), landscape context (physical environment) and tree influences.

INTRODUCTION

The transitional zones between forests and meadows are prominent and dynamic features of many mountain environments. These natural vegetation boundaries often reflect underlying factors such as climate, landform, soils and fire history. Over the past century, forest expansion into meadows or grasslands has occurred globally, spurring concern over the loss of species that are unique to these habitats. Major challenges remain in understanding why and how these transitional zones change over time. Answers to these questions are fundamental to predicting future changes in vegetation at both local and global scales. In mountainous regions of the Pacific Northwest, transitional zones between meadow and forest can occur in a diversity of settings. Many of these have undergone rapid changes during the 20th century as conifers have invaded meadows. Few studies have addressed the consequences of this encroachment for biological diversity, thus motivating the current work. Tree establishment in meadows can affect plant diversity in two ways: (1) suppressing or eliminating meadow forbs, grasses and sedges, and at the same time (2) facilitating understory herbs and shrubs associated with forests. Both processes can be influenced by the characteristics of invading trees (density, size or canopy cover) and by the rates at which these characteristics change. Landscape contextâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the elevation, aspect, slope, soils, and climate of a locationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;may also determine the rates at which species are lost or gained as these structural characteristics change. Understanding the interactions among invading trees, landscape context and plant response is critical to predicting future changes in the composition and diversity of mountain landscapes. This study examined 26 years (1983-2009) of vegetation change across 20 forest-to-meadow transitional zones in diverse landscape contexts (physical settings) of the Three Sisters Biosphere Reserve (TSBR) in central Oregon. We addressed the following questions: 1. How has vegetation changed across forest-to-meadow boundaries over the past 26 years? 2. Do the magnitude and direction of change differ among forest, transitional and meadow habitats? 3. How are patterns of change within these habitats related to climate variation, landscape context and local tree influences?

RESULTS

For the period of study, 1983-2009, we detected a small but significant increase in summer temperature (0.064 degrees C/year), but no change in mean annual temperature, precipitation or spring snowpack. Among transitional habitats, trees increased in size and cover, but there was very little new establishment. By comparison, structural changes in forest habitats were small and non-significant. Changes in the ground vegetation were also small in forest and meadow habitats. However, in transitional habitats we observed significant replacement of meadow by forest species. This pattern varied with landscape context in two principal ways. First, declines in meadow species were greater where summer moisture was limitingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;on dry slopes in the montane zone and in sites with early snowmelt in the subalpine zone. Second, increases in the diversity and abundance of forest species were much greater in montane than in subalpine sites.

Interestingly, changes in ground vegetation (cover or diversity of meadow or forest species) were not related to changes in tree structure during the study period. Instead they were related to initial structure: Habitats with greater tree cover and largerdiameter trees in 1983 experienced larger declines in meadow species. DISCUSSION

Despite more than a century of tree encroachment into meadows in the Three Sisters area, transitional habitats between forest and meadow remained structurally distinct from adjacent forests and retained many of the species present in adjoining meadows. Nevertheless, change is occurring slowly, although in differing ways in different parts of the landscape. Although climate has warmed slightly during the study period, we saw little evidence of this in the ground vegetation. If warming had had a direct effect, we would have observed comparable changes in meadow, transitional and forest habitats. Among transitional zones, two important trends emerged across the landscape. First, declines in meadow species were greater in sites where soil moisture was limiting—on drier slopes in the montane zone and on south- and west-facing slopes in the subalpine, where the snowpack melts earlier. Second, increases in the diversity and cover of forest species were large in the montane zone but small in the subalpine zone. Montane forests in this region support a diversity of shade-tolerant herbs that can readily disperse into the understories of expanding forests. Subalpine forests, characterized by deep and persistent snow packs, short growing seasons and infertile soils are lacking in these species. In early-snowmelt sites in the subalpine, the combined effects of these trends—greater loss of meadow species and limited recruitment of forest species—led to significant declines in plant diversity. Trees can substantially alter their environments, particularly in non-forested settings. They create shade, moderate air and soil temperatures, affect precipitation and snow accumulation, compete for soil resources and alter nutrient cycles. Thus, we were surprised to find that changes in the ground vegetation were unrelated to concurrent changes in tree structure. Instead, they correlated with structural conditions at the beginning of our study. This counterintuitive result can be explained by the conditions and processes that lead to vegetation change once trees become established. First, despite decades to more than a century of tree presence, transitional habitats remained dominated by meadow species in 1983. Thus, they held significant potential for change. Second, changes in the ground vegetation reflected the cumulative influence of established trees, not only the change in structure. Among our sites, initial tree cover and size varied widely (reflecting differing histories of invasion), but changes in these characteristics were comparatively small and less variable. Transitional habitats with greater tree cover or size thus had the potential to effect larger changes in the ground layer. Our study was not designed to quantify the rate or extent of meadow loss or to compare the susceptibility of different environments to encroachment. These are larger-scale questions that are being addressed through remote sensing and change-detection analysis. However, we can describe the community-level consequences of encroachment where it does occur. Here, our work indicates that even without further expansion of forest,

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Trees can substantially alter their environments, particularly in nonforested settings. They create shade, moderate air and soil temperatures, affect precipitation and snow accumulation, compete for soil resources and alter nutrient cycles.

changes in the ground vegetation along existing boundaries can be significant. Second, simple estimates of change in forest cover may not adequately capture changes in the ground vegetation, which are also shaped by landscape context. Combining knowledge from field-based studies with remote sensing could provide a more complete understanding of the extent and ecological consequences of forest encroachment in this and similar landscapes. Future changes in climate are likely to alter the dynamics of these transitional zones if they affect rates of tree establishment or growth. Current predictions for warmer, drier summers, warmer, wetter winters and shifts in the form of precipitation (from snow to rain) suggest the potential for increasing summer drought and longer growing seasons. The consequences for vegetation are likely to vary in complex ways across the elevational and topographic gradients that define these mountain landscapes. In the montane zone, warmer, drier summers may reduce rates of tree invasion and growth on drier upland slopes, but enhance invasion in wetter basins, where waterlogged soils currently limit both the extent of tree establishment and its effect on ground vegetation. Similar switches may occur in early- vs. late-snowmelt sites in the subalpine zone in response to changes in snowpack and growing-season length. Climate change also has the potential to cause indirect or secondary effects in the form of increased frequency of insect outbreaks or wildfires, disturbances that can dramatically alter ecosystem structure or create new vegetation boundaries. Where invading trees are destroyed by insects or fire, the direction of change can be reversed: Forest may revert to meadow. To our knowledge, this study represents the first longterm, large-scale assessment of vegetation change in mountain meadows experiencing 20th-century encroachment. Understanding how tree influences and landscape context shape the dynamics of these transitional zones represents a first critical step toward predicting future changes in these and other mountain landscapes. This represents a summary of the article, “Landscape context and long-term tree influences shape the dynamics of forest-meadow ecotones in mountain ecosystems,” initially published in the journal Ecosphere, 2011, vol. 2(8), Article 91, pp. 1-24. http://www. esajournals.org/doi/pdf/10.1890/ES11-00110.1 

The Mazamas’ First Outing to Thailand by Kate Evans

On the Mazamas’ first ever outing to Thailand, most of us arrived in Bangkok late on the evening of Feb. 8. On the 9th we explored this hot, humid, tropical city with a river taxi ride and a walk to Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. At Wat Pho we saw the gigantic reclining Buddha, 151 feet long and 49 feet tall, and at the Grand Palace we saw the Emerald Buddha (which is jade not emerald) and impressive Buddhist and Ramakian murals, which artists were retouching with gold leaf. Several of us had to rent more modest attire, long skirts, etc., for our palace visit. Wat means temple in Thai, and the wats are amazing, with their strong primary colors and distinctive snake-like rooflines where naga, the mythical serpent that guarded Buddha during meditation, is shown in green and gold tiles, representing his scales. The roofs are often three levels, and lotus buds decorate the tops of temple gates, columns and spires. We also saw lotus growing in small pools at many of the wats. Chedi, a mountain-shaped structure paying tribute to Buddhism’s stability, are also found at wats. After the Grand Palace, we walked back through Chinatown, a crowded place of olfactory and visual overload: clothes, jewelry, shoes, food, coffins, mopeds and tuk tuks (a three-wheeled pedicab), along with people and more people. On the 10th at 6 p.m. in the Bangkok train depot, everyone stood and faced a portrait of the Thai King as the national anthem Mahout Ingrid Wehrle played. We then boarded a firstatop an elephant. class sleeper train to Lampang where we walked to the bus station and purchased tickets for Chang Rai, our next destination. Kate, who had recently taken an Amtrak sleeper to Glacier, commented on how much more spacious the train compartments are in Thailand. Greg purchased our bus lunch from street vendors, fish in banana leaves and sticky rice in bamboo cylinders that peeled like a banana. Once in Chang Rai many of us enjoyed a Thai massage, while Ingrid, Diana and Rebecca toured the Hill Tribe Museum. We then enjoyed a superb dinner and shopped at the night market. Our next five nights and five days were spent in the Northern Hill Tribe country, a high point of our trip for many in the party. After rice soup with milk and warm green soy milk at a market restaurant, we took a sorngtaaou (“two rows”), a small pickup truck with two benches in the back, to the Kok river. There we boarded two long boats for our upriver journey through banana and tobacco fields to the elephant camp. We even saw a water

buffalo beside the river. At the camp, two bold party members, Ingrid and Nancy, draped their necks with a large boa. We then climbed aboard our elephants, two by two, and mahouts Ingrid, Jean and Nancy rode behind the elephants’ heads. The elephant’s gait is a slow, dignified, side-to-side roll, which is not a problem unless the elephant is headed on a steep downhill slope and you have to brace yourself and hang on tightly to avoid sliding forward and off. Our hard-working elephants received a lot of bananas when we arrived at the Lahu village. There we found twostory bamboo huts with pigs and chickens below (with a few mopeds) and people above. We slept and ate on the second floor, which even had a cooking fire. We were and rider Kate Evans surprised to see that the Photo: Unknown village even had solar panels. The next morning, after passing an animist shrine near the village, we hiked for about five hours through rice paddies, banana and bamboo. We all had our day packs with our water, passports, baht, socks and clothes, malaria pills, sunscreen and glasses, bug goop, mosquito nets and cameras. Everyone but Jean and Kate also had a sleeping bag. Jean and Kate gambled on not needing a bag in the jungle; they won that bet but also lost due to the freezing-cold air conditioning of the sleeper trains. Some of our party members also had unique items. Rebecca had a Thai bird book, Diana had a Thai dictionary to refresh her memory of the language she had learned as a Peace Corps volunteer, and Constance had her camera pack with her Nikon and many lenses. Greg and Gary also carried the group first aid kit, and Greg had some duct tape that proved to be invaluable in keeping his hiking boots together. For our lunch picnic, our guide Tep and his crew used

forest camp with a small spring for our shower. Our final hike was a steeply downhill with occasional bushwhacking and views of the village, below. We hiked through winter rice fields that had just recently been burned and still contained hot embers. At the village some of the kids were very shy until Ingrid and Dana worked their magic with smiles and balloons. We were only the second Western group through the village that year, and the women were very anxious to sell us lovely woven items, purses, etc. The village had solar panels and a TV antenna, but we all slept in a one-room bamboo hut across from another hut where our meals were prepared. We found sleeping in a bamboo hut with bamboo poles and slats is very noisy; every time someone moved, the floor would creak and sway. A rooster also decided that 2:20 a.m. was a fine time to wake everyone. Our trek ended with another sorngtaaou ride to the Monkey Caves, a Buddhist Temple with limestone caves, Koi-filled ponds, and lots of monkeys, a few of which were very aggressive. The next stop was Mae Sai, which is at the Myanmar (Burma) border. Some of us chose to pay $10 and add Myanmar to our passports; others chose to shop and sightsee in Mae Sai. We Nancy Hopkins with a friendly boa at the Elephant Camp. then went to the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos and Photo: Kate Evans Myanmar meet, and visited the fascinating and informative Opium Museum with its maps, scales, weights and ceramic banana leaves for us to sit on and cooked eggs and veggies opium pillows. The day ended back in Chang Rai at our favorite in bamboo containers on a rack over an open fire. Tep’s crew Thai restaurant. consisted of his father-in-law and several cousins. They also The next day we took the bus to Chang Mai. After our cut bamboo walking sticks and made bamboo bowls for us and crowded sorngtaaou rides, our bus felt luxurious as we rode bamboo “troughs” for various meals. We slept under a bamboo past corn fields and rice paddies. We also noticed that in the lean-to with a floor and roof of banana leaves and had grilled country we saw houses on stilts with the animals below, whereas chicken, rice and soup with chicken or pumpkin for dinner. in the city the houses were on concrete pillars with the cars and Our trekking breakfasts were very American—toast, eggs, jam, mopeds below. We were on our own in Chang Mai. Some had coffee and tea—but lunch and dinner were Thai feasts. another Thai massage, others went to the Insect Museum, and The next day was harder—bushwhacking and lots of many strolled in the brick-wall-enclosed old city, with its many climbing up and down hills. Our mileage wasn’t impressive, wats, trees, orchids and bromeliads. but our hill-climbing efforts were. The next night, Feb. 14, was We then boarded a second-class night train to Ayutthaya, a spent in Tep’s village, an Akha village, where we met his wife and UNESCO World Heritage site and the capital of Siam (Thaichildren and stayed in a small A-frame beside a river. We also land) for 417 years between 1350 and 1767, when the Burmese went to a Hill Tribes Festival where St. Valentine was being celearmy sacked it. We left Chang Mai at 5:55 p.m. and arrived brated although he had a rifle, at Ayutthaya at 5:15 a.m., not a bow. The performers were stepping off the air-condisinging and dancing in glorious tioned train into the humid ethnic garb and selling exquisite Tep’s constant reminder tropics where geckos were handicrafts—woven scarves, was, as we struggled up running up and down the purses, silver headdresses. After train depot walls. We had the small village, the festival the hill in the blazing sun, fried doughnuts and hot soy came as quite a culture shock: milk for breakfast on a table that our route was “just a little bit up.” vehicles everywhere, including with a plastic Winnie the BMWs, Lexuses and mopeds. Pooh tablecloth. Later, by They also had a jumbotron, a the light of the full moon, multi-story screen, so everyone we took a water taxi across from the far reaches of the the river to the old city, where we rented 12 bikes and biked amphitheatre could see the performers. to the ruins. Our first stop was Wat Ratchaburana, where gold The next day we hiked uphill through bamboo, winter rice relics were ransacked in 1957. The wats are tall and brick, with stalks and sticky thorns to a pine forest on the top of a ridge. tops shaped like corncobs. However, it was so sad to see the Tep’s constant reminder was, as we struggled up the hill in the headless Buddhas. blazing sun, that our route was “just a little bit up.” At lunch it We then went to the National Museum, where we saw a was fun to see Jean play a game of rock, paper, scissors with Tep’s bronze Buddha meditating with a Naga over his head, and a father-in-law, even though he spoke no English and she spoke Garuda, half man, half eagle. Elephants were performing near no Akha. After lunch we descended to another bamboo/banana the museum with a baby elephant shimmying to rock music.

“

Yech! Poor thing. Three intrepid bikers, Jean, Rick, and Dyanne, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Burma and Thailand. Half the rode to the famous reclining Buddha outside of town. We then workers—16,000 POWs and 100,000 impressed laborers— biked and ferried back to the train station and headed back to died! We were especially impressed by a huge diorama of Hell our Bangkok hotel. As usual, Ingrid and Jean were playing with Fire Pass. The Chinese Cemetery is also worth seeing with its the kids on the train. Our next train ride was to Kanchanaburi, photos of the deceased on the tombstones. location of the bridge over the river Kwai, so we leapt from the After all that education and culture, Ingrid and Kate enjoyed ancient Medieval Siamese capital to a famous World War II site a 20-minute, 99-baht ($3.24) fish-foot massage. The fish eat the in one day. dead skin off the feet and lower legs and the results are great, The Thon Buri train station is beside a huge market with but the fish really tickle. Apple and Noi’s Guest House provided veggies, spices, fruit, fish, eggs and meat, which we explored us with a final banquet, which included fried banana flowers as before our departure. We also had food vendors galore on the train appetizers. Our dinner was punctuated by lightning flashes and as we headed north past rice paddies filled with cattle egrets. We rain. The rain really cooled things down as we headed back to went to Nam Tok to see Hell Fire Pass, an infamous railroad pass Bangkok by train. Our train car had lots of food vendors and named for the torches lighting the work of the emaciated pris- a special area “Reserved for Monks and Disabled,” occupied by oners who created it. However, there were no guest houses, and orange-robed Buddhist monks. it was too hot to camp, so we took a sonrngtaaou to Sai Yak Noi, Our final sightseeing jaunt was to the house of American Jim a famous waterfall, Thompson, which is a and returned to museum in Bangkok. Kanchanaburi that Thompson was instruevening. We shared mental in developing the train with a the Thai silk trade but loud, obnoxious then mysteriously disapAmerican tour peared in 1967. The group, and Gary gardens, Koi ponds, said they were “the teak floors, architecture worst culture shock and art were gorgeous. of the trip.” We Thompson also had a really felt sorry for Buddha with a Naga their tour guide. with seven heads We next protecting and shading stayed in Apple the enlightened one. and Noi’s Guest In his Mazama House on the river Bulletin ad, Greg and enjoyed two Justice, our leader, a i r - c o n d i t i o n e d Back Row: Rebecca Atherton, Rick Gettman, Constance Grecco, Greg Justice, Jean promised us that we nights there as we Andreas, Dyanne Foster, Nancy Hopkins, Ingrid Wehrle, Kate Evans, Diana McConkeywould “learn about Photo: Unknown explored the river Gordon Front Row: Tep, Gary Beck, Dana Gardner, Tep’s father culture and history that Kwai bridge, the Western people are not JEATH Museum, often exposed to. We the Chinese cemetery and the Thailand–Burma Railway will travel like backpackers, experience culture shock at its finest Museum. The JEATH Museum (Japan, England, America, and have great fun while doing it.” Did he ever deliver! This Austria, Thailand and Holland) was established by an abbot in was Greg’s first outing, but you never would have known it. He 1977 to illustrate the horrors of war. Ingrid, as a portrait artist, had help from his wife Addie (who is from Thailand) and his was especially interested in this museum, where drawings done assistant Gary Beck, a very experienced outing and climb leader. by the prisoners were preserved hidden in hollowed table legs Thanks to Greg, Addie and Gary, we all have an appreciation and buried in tins and bottles during the war. It was such an of how wonderful the Thai people are, how delicious their food indictment of war’s cruelty to see the tortured, emaciated men. is and how beautiful their country is. We feel very privileged to The drawings were so powerful, but it was sad to see the dust, have been part of the Mazamas’ first outing to Thailand. cracked glass and spider webs on them. Dates: February 8-23, 2011 The War Museum, beside the bridge, was an eclectic but Participants: Greg Justice, leader; Gary Beck, assistant leader; Jean quite interesting collection by a non-discriminating collector. Andreas, Rebecca Atherton, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Dana We also saw a tiger in a small shop with a cub in a tiny cage— Gardner, Richard Gettman, Constance Grecco, Nancy Hopkins, quite awful. The Thailand–Burma Railway Centre is air-condiDiana McConkey-Gordon, Ingrid Wehrle.  tioned and very informative. We learned that Japan built the railroad because they wanted to attack India and needed a land route there. The Burma-Thailand railway employed 30,000 POWs and 200,000 impressed laborers from India, China,

Outings Mt. Kilimanjaro Outing, Tuna Panda Juu!!! by Ryan Christie

If you ever find yourself on the upper ramparts of Mt. Kilimanjaro and want to exclaim that you and your team “climb high”, this is how it’s said in Swahili: Tu-na, pronounced like the fish, Panda, sounds more like “ponda,” and Jooohh, soft “J,” then eeuww as if you just stepped in something gross. In March of this year I led an outing to Tanzania, Africa to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Lava Tower, Mt. Lengai and enjoy a Serengeti safari. With the coordination of Donovan Pacholl and Embark Adventures and Expeditions, our team spent seven days on the mountain with RLAT, Real Life Adventure Travel, led by Freddie and Leons Chikima. Our guides took us up the scenic Lemosho route to Lava Tower, then to the summit via the Western Breach. This route is the most difficult nontechnical one on the mountain. With a rest day at Lava Tower at 15,000 feet, we ascended the Tower via three different routes; we climbed the scramble route, rockclimbed the nose above camp, and established a first ascent on the north face of the Tower (see feature article). On the eve before summit day, we all went to bed around 7 p.m. at Arrow Glacier camp at 16,000 feet. We awoke at 11 p.m. to eat something quickly and prepare for the summit. Leaving camp at midnight, we climbed the steep and sometimes exposed Western Breach by headlamp, reaching the crater rim right at sunrise. From the Crater, we still had almost 1,000 feet to go to the top. Unless you’ve done it, you really have no idea how difficult it is to put one foot in front of the other at 19,000 feet. Slowly but surely, our little team of seven along with three guides reached the 19,343 foot summit shortly before 8 a.m. on Saturday, March 12. After about 30 minutes spent enjoying the views and taking pictures, it was time to descend. We spent the rest of the day descending 9,500 feet off the summit to reach Mweka camp at 10,170 feet by nightfall. Then on our final day on the mountain we descended to the park gate at 6,000 feet and back to our hotel in Moshi to prepare for our safari in the Serengeti.

Kilimanjaro Outing.

Photo: Ryan Christie

Bob led two climbs—Corkscrew and Telescope Peaks. The second climb was cut short due to extreme wind and deteriorating weather. The group did get to the top of Bennett Peak, which is below Telescope. Hikes included Wild Rose Peak (also not completed due to the wind), Mosaic Canyon, Golden/Glower Gulch, Titus Canyon, Natural Bridge and Fall Canyons. Most of the participants had never spent much time in Death Valley, so there were trips to the many tourist sites such as Dante’s Point, Badwater, Scotty’s Castle, Devil’s Golf Course, Rhyolite Ghost Town, Artist’s Canyon, the Death Valley Sand Dunes, Leadville, Ubehebe Crater and Salt Creek. Trips of these areas included short hikes. One group went to Zabriskie Point before sunrise to take photos as the sun came up. We also swam at Stovepipe Wells and at the Furnace Creek Resort after some of the shorter hikes. Most of us were concerned before the trip that April would be extremely hot. However, it was the wind rather than the heat that caused problems. Bob Smith and Joey Zarosinski’s tent was completely destroyed during one windy afternoon. Ann Brown’s tent barely made it through the week. Sunny dispositions were challenged by dust that collected in every tent. The rainy winter encouraged a variety of flowers and left snow on the higher peaks. However, there were no fields of flowers as some of us had expected. But if you spent the time, you could find a great variety of flowers within a small area. There are about 1,000 different species of plants in the park but few cacti. Susan Saul and others really enjoyed a wonderful flower hike led by a park ranger up Titus Canyon. We camped in a group site at Furnace Creek. Although there are some scrub trees to provide shade, the site is barren and far from any water or toilet. Some of the individual campsites are more pleasant. Death Valley is the largest national park in the lower 48 states. There is extraordinary diversity in geology, which is quite apparent due to the lack of plant cover and soil. The elevation ranges from 282 feet below sea level to over 11,000 feet There are almost no defined hiking trails; we often saw few others while hiking. Death Valley is like no other place in the United States.

Dates: March 2–20, 2011 Participants: Ryan Christie, leader; Kevin Clark, assistant leader; Carey Bowers, Toni Leuthold, Erika Markel, Scott Morrison, Patricia Riley. 

Death Valley by Diana Forester

Thirty-one participants who were all hoping for sun traveled over 950 miles from the Portland area to Death Valley National Park for a hiking and climbing outing. The outing leader, Bob Breivogel, has made many prior trips to this area. Diana Forester assisted and Skip Smith also led several hikes.

Dates: April 2–8, 2011 Participants: Bob Breivogel, leader; Diana Forester, assistant leader; Susan Brickey, Ann Brown, Allen Burrell, Bev Carlon, Mary Clisby, George Crispin, Patricia Dornbusch, Gerda Eck, Kate Evans, Shahrokh Iranshad, William Kingsbury, Jonathon Myers, Sandee Myers, Joyce Rasmussen, Pam Rigor, Finella Robinson, Susan Saul, Maxine Schwartz, Terry Sherbeck, Anne Simmons, Bonnie Smith, Robert Smith, Skip Smith, Joey Zarosinski, David Zeps, Margaret Zeps.

Nancy Falconer, Lynne Hayden, Steve Hayden, Sarah Linden, Kathy Marambe, Sue Parsons, Kathy Robertson, Pat Segars, Beverly Sherrer, Bob Vreeland, Michelle Wynkoop.

Oregon Coast Trail, Northern Section by Ray Sheldon

This last of three outings to explore the Oregon Coast began on August 11, and was held at Nehalem Bay State Park. With the exception of some morning fog, the weather was ideal for hiking and the outing participants took advantage of every one of the five days to do just that. Hikes included Cape Meares and Cape Falcon Lookouts, Tillamook Head, Neakhanie Mountain and the Fort-to-Beach Trail. The visitor’s centers at the lighthouses and at Fort Clatsop were informative and added to the hiking experience. Although we didn’t complete the entire OCT, we did take in the very best parts and now, when we drive down Highway 101, we’ll know what lies at the end of those road signs. Dates: August 11–17, 2011 Participants: Ray Sheldon, leader; Stan Enevoldsen, Larry Stadler, Mary Stadler, assistant leaders; Natalie Arndt, Cecille Beyl, Gary Beyl, Terri Cummings, Carol Dickson, Michael Earp, Norma Enevoldsen, Carol Hult, Tom Grauer, Bob Lockerby, Lon Nelson, Susan Nelson, Julianne Parrett, Carol Patrick, Bob Ripley, Janyce Ripley, Betty Sheldon, Bonnie Smith, Marta Smith, Skip Smith, Harvey Stone.

Death Valley Outing at Wildrose to start Telescope Peak Climb. Left to right: Pam Rigor, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Kate Evans, Allen Burrell, David Zeps. Photo: Bob Breivogel

Tuscany by Paul Gerald

The defining day of the 2011 “Trails and Tables of Tuscany” was spent in Casentino National Park, a mountainous forest reserve east of Florence. We met a local shepherd for a walk over a scenic ridge and through a wondrous forest. The shepherd and our Italian guide even sang a shepherd song for us, which caused some female members of the group to have trouble focusing. We wound up at an 1,100-year-old monastery, where we drank pure water from a spring. From there we hopped onto our bus to the shepherd’s home, where he made cheese from that morning’s sheep milk. His father told us all about their lives in the mountains and his mother rolled out hand-made pasta for us. It was part hiking, part scenery, part education, and a big-part culinary adventure. We even got to try their family’s prosciutto and, yes, pig cheeks! For 12 days we did this kind of thing: hike to a medieval village for a wine tasting, admire wildflowers while strolling a country road, visit an olive mill for dinner and more education, and swim in the pool during an afternoon off at our villa in Chianti. We even did some touristy things, spending time in Florence, Siena, and among the famous towers of San Gimignano. We all treasure the memories of the hills, the trails, the meals, and our man in Tuscany, Mister Charming himself, Silvio. Dates: April 27–May 8, 2011 Participants: Paul Gerald, leader; Debi Danielson, assistant leader;

Rainier by Richard Getgen

Heavy snow in the spring and a cool summer resulted in snowbound trails in the Cascades. At Mt. Rainier, the average snowline was a mere 5,500 feet in mid-August. The mercury did not reach 90 degrees until the day we left Portland, Saturday, August 20. Fortunately, Rainier National Park has trails at all altitudes. The only precipitation fell on Monday evening, August 22. The hiking days were dry and the mountain was in view every day. On the first day, one group enjoyed wonderful views of the mountain from Mt. Fremont Lookout and Skyscraper Pass, while the other group ascended forested Rampart Ridge. On the second day, we walked through snow from Paradise to Mazama Ridge and descended to Reflection Lake. On the third day, some hikers took it easy on the Silver Falls-Grove of the Patriarchs route, while others ventured into the Goat Rocks Wilderness to Glacier Lake. The next day’s hike featured views of Emmons Glacier from Burroughs Mountain. Thursday’s adventure included the steep ascent past Comet Falls to Van Trump Park. Some members of the group hiked to the Goat Rocks’ Jordan Basin while others followed the snow-covered Paradise loops to view the Nisqually Glacier. Another group hiked from Tipsoo Lake on the PCT around Naches Peak in the northern corner of the W.O. Douglas Wilderness. The elk herd that roamed through Packwood in the morn-

By most accounts, the estimated 200 people who complete the entire trail each year take an average of 10–14 days. Our outing, however, was to be challenging, exciting and filled with those who have a common philosophy. “Why take 10 days, when you can do it in five?” The plan was set, with our trek to start on August 24, with the daily mileage ranging from 14½–21 miles. Our strategy was to travel fast and light with a maximum pack weight ranging from 30–35 pounds. We would use a single resupply cache at White River Campground on the morning of our fourth day to help lighten our loads. We started out from the Longmire Trailhead, enjoying the scenic views while our bodies got up to speed for the unrelenting up and down of the Wonderland. We saw a lenticular cloud hanging over Rainier almost every day, making us thankful that we were circumnavigating the peak, not climbing it. Unfortunately, as the first day progressed, team assistant Annie began experiencing pain and swelling in her leg. After about 15 miles, the team reached Klapatche Park Camp. We still had about three more miles to go to reach our assigned camp, but Annie had reached her limit. The team, which included experienced climbers and a former EMT and WFR felt comfortable with her ability to get out on her own. She would leave in the morning via a 3-mile spur trail meeting the closed Westside Road with an additional 8 miles to reach a trailhead. With heavy hearts we said our goodbyes and continued on our way to North Puyallup Camp comforted by the knowledge that another group would be spending the night at Annie’s camp. We later learned that Annie had the good fortune of meeting a park ranger who gave her a ride on the Westside Road, saving 3–4 miles of walking on her injured leg. She returned home and saw a doctor the following day and was diagnosed with chronic compartment syndrome. After a couple of weeks of R&R, she fully recovered. That evening we had a team meeting and decided that Brad would assume the duties of assistant. The next morning we continued our journey; the day’s highlights included a suspension bridge and lovely Mowich Lake. During the day, Sue Ann began having problems with blisters. We patched her up with mole skin and duct tape and she soldiered on, keeping up a good pace. That evening we stayed at Ipswich Camp, which is being converted from a car camp to a backwoods camp. On the third day, we started up the Carbon River with some awesome close-up views of the Carbon Glacier before continuing on our way, passing lakes, streams and flower-filled meadows. Sadly, Sue Ann’s blister issues continued to dog her and she was also beginning to feel fatigued. By late morning she was beginning to struggle and we did what we could for her, carrying most of her pack items as she doggedly plugged on to our next stop, Sunrise Camp. That evening Sue Ann said that unless things drastically improved, she would have to leave the outing. Once again we discussed the situation and we all felt comfortable with her ability to walk about a mile to the nearby Sunrise Visitor Center. The next morning we once again had a sad parting with a team member. Fortunately, Sue Ann met a few ‘trail angels’ at the visitor center, one of whom gave her a ride to the Cougar Rock Campground. After our White River resupply, we began our trek up to the

Rainier Outing group at Mt. Fremont: (standing) Ursula Edlund, Bonney Kratzer, Karl Kratzer, Nancy Ekberg, Mary May, Cindy Rust, Marta Smith, Rose McManus, Harvey Stone, Natalie Arndt, Betty Lou Pratt, Inge Winters, Jill Nathman; (kneeling) Helen WahlStephens, Art Harvey, Kitty Tsoi, and John Davis. Photo: Richard Getgen)

ings and early evenings provided us with wildlife sightings nearly every day. On the trail, the best sighting was a black bear grazing in a meadow near Sunrise Camp. We spent the week at Cascade Peaks RV and Golf Resort, located halfway between Randle and Packwood. Upon arriving, the group favored the shaded groves, but when the mosquitoes came out in the evening, the campers retreated to the open fields for relief. The campground has over 700 sites and was sparsely populated during the weekdays. The sole disadvantage of being in the remote meadow was the low water pressure in the showers. Packwood’s restaurants were frequented in the evenings and two establishments had ice cream for the weary hiker. Bob’s group started their Thursday adventure with copper toppers (cinnamon buns) at the Copper Creek Inn. Evening meetings included home-made cookies, home-made bread, Dutch-oven desserts, and corn-on-the-cob. Dates: August 20–27, 2011 Participants: Richard Getgen, leader; Robert Smith, assistant leader; Natalie Arndt, John Davis, Bob Dimick, Jeanette Dimick, Ramona Duskin, Ursula Edlund, Nancy Ekberg, Art Harvey, Helen Hansen, Bonney Kratzer, Karl Kratzer, Janet Matthews, Mary May, Rose Marie McManus, Jill Nathman, Betty Lou Pratt, Cindy Rust, Jim Selby, Marta Smith, Harvey Stone, Kitty Tsoi, Inga Winters, Greg Wahl-Stephens, Helen Wahl-Stephens, Joey Zarosinski, Marilyn Zigler.

The Wonderland Trail Trek by Gary Bishop and Annie Lamberto

The Wonderland Trail, which circumnavigates Mt. Rainier, is 93 miles long and has a cumulative elevation gain of 22,000 feet.

Colorado 14er’s

longest stretch of high country on the trail: Summerland then over Panhandle Gap to Ohanapecosh Park and then down to Indian Bar. We ran into several stretches of late-season snow and enjoyed many flower-covered meadows. The day ended with a long slog downhill to our final night’s camp at Nickel Creek. On the fifth day, we saw an epidemic of ‘horse to barn’ as we quickly put the miles behind us following a westward course up Stevens Creek past Reflection Lakes and then down the Paradise River. Stopping for a quick lunch about 2–3 miles from Longmire we were very surprised to see Sue Ann hiking up the trail. After spending the night in Cougar Rock Campground she decided to join us for the home stretch. We soon found ourselves back at the Longmire Trailhead where Annie was waiting to greet us. After catching up on our adventures, we headed off to civilization and a well-deserved meal of burgers, fries and milkshakes. In the end, the journey definitely proved to be challenging and exciting. Even though all of us did not complete the entire circumnavigation, we all gained memories of some very special people and a trail that truly deserves the name “Wonderland”.

by Bob Breivogel

Nineteen Mazamas traveled to the Colorado Rockies on August 26, 2011, for seven days of hiking and climbing. The first part of the trip was spent in the Sawatch Range of central Colorado. Our group car-camped near Leadville at the Printer Boy group campground located on Turquoise Lake. The first day was spent doing conditioning hikes to Native Lake at over 12,000 feet. On the following day all 19 of our climbers reached the summit of the second highest peak in the continental U.S., Mt. Elbert. Over the next three days, Mts. Massive, Harvard, Huron, and Yale were climbed privately by members of the outing. Due to our location, all these climbs could be accessed with fairly short drives. Several additional hikes were also done, including Timberline Lake and Lost Man Pass. The Cottonwood Hot Springs, near Buena Vista, was a popular post-climb spot for relaxation. We generally had good weather with the typical afternoon thunderstorms, though during the first day several tents were flooded due to an especially intense cloudburst. After the Sawatch adventures, we relocated to the Front Range and Estes Park, where we rented two houses at the YMCA of the Rockies. On September 2, 16 Mazamas reached the summit of Longs Peak, near Estes Park in the Front Range by the Keyhole Route. The outing ended September 3, with everyone looking forward to a future trip back to Colorado. The climbs were led by Bob Breivogel and assisted by Tom Davidson, with further assistance from Jim Ronning, Cloudy Sears and others.

Dates: August 24–28, 2011 Participants: Gary Bishop, leader; Annie Lamberto and Brad Tollefson, assistant leaders; Terry Donahe, Sue Ann Koniak, Duane Nelson.

Dates: August 26–September 3, 2011 Participants: Bob Breivogel, leader; Tom Davidson, assistant leader; John Borsuk, Sue Dimin, Tom Dodson, Kate Evans, Dyanne Foster, Margaret Gauthier, Jean Hillebrand, Larry Jordan, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Pam Rigor, Jim Ronning, Cloudy Sears, Steve Wagoner, Shanon Walls.

North Wales by Eugene Lewins

Few places hold as powerful a role in the development of mountaineering as does North Wales, especially in such a compact and accessible location. The low-elevation mountains and heather-dotted crags of Snowdonia, North Wales, have been the training ground for wave upon wave of British climbers, some of whom ultimately succeeded in 1953 on the summit of Mt. Everest. Moreover, two of our group, Andy May and myself, had learned to climb on these cliffs during our college years and were able to meld personal memories with local knowledge. We were able to make successful ascents of Snowdon and Tryfan, the two most celebrated of Welsh mountains. These included long scrambles of exposed 4th-class rock, requiring careful footwork and a steady hand. We responded to challenging weather days in the best of local tradition—not cancelling the day but instead transitioning down the climbing grades to find something that would work. Training opportunities on the low-angled slabs of Ogwen Valley required the use of double ropes, the most common

Jean Hillebrand in the Upper Trough, Longs Peak Keyhole Route. Photo: Bob Breivogel

Island Peak—Donovan Pacholl descending the summit ridge. Photo: Mark Koss

technique in Britain. Our first attempts to translate the obtuse local grading system left us with the impression that many of the early-era climbs would be around 5.4. After encounters with polished, damp, old-school and wandering pitches, with never a bolt in sight, more than one of our climbers professed much respect for the lowly 5.4! Welsh culture was a rich and daily companion to our climbing activities. We learned a smattering of the dialect (diolch fawr, meaning many thanks); explored Welsh whiskey (who knew?); and were served tea by a local legend, Eric Jones, famous for the first British solo of the Eiger Nordwand. Historical explorations included the 3-mile medieval wall around Chester, a tour of Conwy Castle, and walks along the Anglesey coastline to the site where St. Patrick was shipwrecked, not to mention finding, on the ceiling of the Pen Y Gwyrd Hotel bar, the signatures of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay celebrating their successful first ascent of Mt. Everest.

lesser-known mountain, Island Peak, a 20,300-foot mountain that can be climbed by anyone with a basic understanding of mountaineering. The team was led by expedition organizer, Donovan Pacholl, and Mazama hike leader, Jim Ronning, both of whom have had significant experience with trekking in Nepal and other countries around the world. Pacholl and Ronning were looking for a classic adventure in Nepal, but also attempting to take a step off the beaten path and actually climb a real mountain. The expedition had all the standard elements of a trip of this magnitude: adventure, hardship, sickness, fatigue and real joy. From climbing Kala Patar to see the epic views of Mt. Everest, to wandering around Everest Base Camp to see the Khumbu Icefall, to getting part of the group to the summit of Island Peak, all parts of the trip presented enormous challenges and rewards. Island Peak summiteers were Jim, Donovan, Bruce, Dick, Ken, Mark K., Mark R., Rachael, Sandra, and Sue (see below for last names). Little did we know that the true test of this outing would not be our 16 days of trekking and climbing but rather our attempt to leave the region, which was socked in by a large cloud bank. This kept our group stuck an extra week in the region. This stretched both our physical and mental limits. The beauty of Nepal, and the Himalayas, is that they offer a little bit of everything, from world-class trekking, to world-class mountaineering, to world-class cultures that survive in these harsh landscapes. The Everest region will always be a mystical and charming place that captures the hearts of trekkers and continues to bring them back, time and time again. As Tom Whittaker said: “Everest for me … is the physical and symbolic manifestation of overcoming odds to achieve a dream.” We did it!

Dates: September 3–17, 2011 Participants: Eugene Lewins, leader; Rayce Boucher, assistant leader; Andy May, Kim Osgood, Shayna Rehberg, Mike Roach, Peggie Schwarz, Rhonda Tierney, Amanda Wallinger.

Khumbu Himalayan Outing by Donovan Pacholl

Mt. Everest has always held an exotic allure. For decades, both trekkers and climbers have journeyed into the Khumbu region of Nepal, near the border of Tibet, to see the tallest, most wellknown mountain in the world—Mt. Everest—and to experience the wonderful Sherpa culture and other mountains that dot the dramatic landscape. During October 2011, after one-and-a-half years of planning, a large group of Mazamas set out from Portland and California to spend approximately three weeks not only trekking up to the legendary Everest Base Camp, but also attempting to climb a

Dates: October 15–November 7, 2011 Participants: Jim Ronning, leader; Donovan Pacholl, assistant leader; Rachel Cadden, Sue Dimmin, Dick Durant, Marie Gibson, Robert Giordano, Mark Koss, Mark Rosolowski, Ken Stober, Sandra Volk. 

Mazama 2011 Awards Honorary Member

years ago, she has worked tirelessly to improve our organization in ways too many to count, helping us to become the sort of home for our members of which we can be proud.

by Doug Couch

Each year the Mazamas may award honorary membership to an individual. The honoree must have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas, or have been eminent in the fields of climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities for at least 10 years. Honorary Member Vera Dafoe. This year we honor Photo: Jerry Stelmack one of our members who could have qualified for consideration based solely on years of achievement apart from her work specifically with our organization. Some milestones along her trail to honorary membership include: • Parker Cup in 1984 • Montague Award in 1989 • Margaret Redman Cup in 2001 • More than 300 summits reached • 37 years as an active climb leader • Over 30 articles written for Mazama publications These sorts of accomplishments contributed to a reputation for being a “constructive trouble maker.” That translated, over many decades and for many Mazama councils and presidents, as a person who would state unequivocally, “There is a problem here that I am going to go to work on.” Then, after a brief pause and a hard stare, “And so should you.” Listing her contributions risks losing sight of the individual behind them, or sounding like a catalog of good deeds apart from that person and her passion. Generations of Mazamas have moved from being her pupils to being mature leaders of our hikes and climbs. Leaders who have followed literally in her footsteps include members of her own family from very early ages. In 1970 she first identified and then accepted the challenge of creating a mountaineering museum, and has been its steward since 1970. From this legacy she has shared tangible links back to our founders, offering a precious chance to look at the things carried by climbers dating back to the 1800s and at every stage in the development of our sport since then. Look behind the long list of accomplishments and contributions and you will find the real reason we present our honorary membership for 2011 to Vera Dafoe. If you look back at the 2000 Mazama Annual, you will find an article entitled, I Smelled Burnt Cookies and Immediately Felt at Home. It begins the chronicle of a love affair with our club that has lasted since 1956. Because the Mazamas helped Vera feel at home all those

Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award by Steve Warner

The Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award has been presented by the Climbing Committee this year to Shirley Welch. This award recognizes an outstanding climb leader with 15 or more years of continuous active participation, demonVera and Carmie Dafoe Award strating outstanding leadership and substantial service to Recipient, Shirley Welch. Photo: Jerry Stelmack the Mazamas. Shirley joined the Mazamas in 1982, looking for opportunities to participate in outdoor activities. She graduated from Basic Climbing School in 1983, Intermediate Climbing School in 1984 and the Advanced Rock Program in 1985. After becoming an assistant leader in 1984, Shirley stepped up to become a fully-active Mazama climb leader the following year, enabling her to also become a BCEP leader and lecture for both BCEP and AR, and coordinate for the AR Program. At the same time she became an instructor for the Nordic Ski Program as well. Shirley gathered experience on technical rock on climbs at Yosemite, Smith Rock, Beacon Rock, Tieton River, Leavenworth, Pashastin Pinnacles, Castle Rock, Joshua Tree, City of Rocks, the Italian Dolomites, Sierra Nevada, Colorado Rockies and high-altitude climbs in Bolivia. Her committee service has been extensive, including: First Aid, Nordic Ski, and Climbing Committees, and two terms with both the Nomination and Expedition Committees. She also chaired both the Nordic and Expedition Committees. After becoming a member of the Executive Council, it was only fitting that she serve as President of the Mazamas during 2009–2010. Shirley is currently working on the Climbing Committee as Co-Chair. It is thus with great pride and pleasure that the Climbing Committee presents Shirley Welch with the Vera and Carmie Dafoe Award.

Hardesty Cup Award

his North Portland neighborhood. Russ’s initial interest in botany, encouraged by his father during family vacations in Texas, intensified when he came to Oregon, and blossomed into conservation activism. I first met Russ in the late 1970s, when he was the local Sierra Club’s spokesperson on forestry issues. Russ advocated for old-growth forest conservation well before concern about the dwindling tracts of ancient forest entered the public consciousness. He was a tireless advocate for protection of the wild lands of Mount St. Helens and the Gifford Pinchot and Mount Hood National Forests. Russ knew the land because he hiked every trail. He authored a trail guidebook titled Hiking the Gifford Pinchot Backcountry in 1976. Modestly, he did not put his name on the book but instead gave all the credit and profits to the Sierra Club. He wanted to encourage hikers and backpackers to explore unprotected wild lands and to become advocates for protection. His letters to the editor of The Oregonian date back to the 1950s. Eventually, Russ had written so many letters that he was afraid he would be considered a crank. With their consent, he would sign his letters using others’ names. When the U.S. Forest Service began to open its timber sales for public comment, Russ was very visible and vocal at public meetings, expressing his belief that science should play as large a role in agency decisions as revenue. He wrote hundreds, or perhaps thousands, of letters protesting Forest Service timber sales in the 1970s and 1980s, along with articles for Sierra Club newsletters to motivate others to take action. He was one of the original firebrands in the Northwest conservation movement. Russ helped me start the Gifford Pinchot Task Force in 1985. He was actively involved in our work to develop a “Citizens Alternative” for the Gifford Pinchot Forest Plan. Several of Russ’s ideas were adopted by the Forest Service and incorporated into the final plan. At the same time, Russ was devoting increasing attention to the Columbia River Gorge. He first published a survey of wildflowers in 1980 and donated the profits to the Native Plant Society of Oregon. He retired in 1982 to devote all his time to study of the Gorge flora. Russ worked for years organizing letter-writing campaigns that ultimately persuaded Oregon State Parks to eliminate livestock grazing from Rooster Rock State Park. He volunteered his help, and recruited others, to build fences at Catherine Creek and other areas in the Gorge to protect sensitive plants from cattle. With his vast knowledge of science and ecology, Russ worked side-by-side with Friends of the Gorge founder and leader Nancy Russell to push for legislation to create the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area in 1986. Nancy suggested that Russ translate his knowledge of botany into a guidebook. Wildflowers of the Columbia Gorge was published in 1988. Russ stated in the introduction that the key to protection of native plants is preservation of their habitat and he hoped that the book would stimulate efforts to protect areas of undisturbed habitat remaining in the Gorge. Ultimately, he was always a conservationist. Sadly, Russ passed away on August 24. Before he died, Russ was informed of the award that we were bestowing upon him. Accepting on his behalf at our Annual Celebration was his long-time friend, Brian Stenberg.

by Marty Hanson

The William P. Hardesty Cup is awarded to a Mazama who has demonstrated consistent leadership over a period of years and has thus epitomized the spirit of volunteerism within our Trail Trips Program. This year’s Hardesty Cup winner has led over 100 hikes. She has been a dedicated member of the Trail Trips Committee for the previous three years and was its chair in 2010–2011. For Hardesty Cup Recipient, Kate all her work and dedication Evans. Photo: Jerry Stelmack to ensuring that our Trail Trips Program is an integral and valuable part of the broader Mazama experience, the Hardesty Cup this year is awarded to Kate Evans.

Montague Award by Susan Saul

We celebrate the lifetime conservation achievements of a person who was a member of the Mazamas for a total of 44 days. Russ Jolley is well-known for his outstanding regional flora guide, Wildflowers of the Columbia Gorge. Many people, however, do not realize that Russ also devoted nearly 60 years of his life to conservation of Washington’s South Cascades, Oregon’s North Cascades and the Columbia River Gorge. Earlier this year, 88-year-old Russ told Vera Dafoe that he wanted to join the Mazamas. He had long ago achieved his qualifying climb, with the evidence manifest in the Mazama climb registers. Russ’s failing health urged prompt action. At its July 12 meeting, the Executive Council passed a resolution making Russ Jolley an immediate member. His conservation achievements were remarkable enough to warrant a cover story in the August issue of the Mazama Bulletin. Russ Jolley was born in Texas in 1922. He obtained a bachelor’s degree in chemical engineering from Texas A&M. Following graduation, Russ served in the U.S. Navy in the Pacific Theater during World War II. Post-war, Russ studied astronomy at the University of Leiden in the Netherlands, where he discovered two variable stars before deciding that astronomy was not for him. He later earned his doctorate in biochemistry from Oregon State University and spent most of his professional career as a research biochemist at Oregon Health Sciences University. Once in Oregon, Russ fell in love with the Cascade Mountains. He began hiking, backpacking and climbing. He led many hiking, climbing and backpacking trips for boys from

Parker Cup Award

Climbing Awards Guardian Peaks

by Al Papesh

Every year the Parker Cup is awarded to a Mazama volunteer who has distinguished him- or herself by hard work, ability and self-sacrifice for the benefit of our organization. This award was established in 1925 by then-Mazama President, Alfred Parker; it is viewed by many as our most prestigious and Parker Cup Recipient, Sojo highest member award. This year’s recipient Hendrix. Photo: Jerry Stelmack demonstrated undaunted courage when she assumed management of our Used Equipment Sale and produced the largest gross receipts and net profits that this sale has ever generated. She will forever be known as the “Czar of the Bazaar.” In addition, she helped coordinate, scout and lead trail trips on an original Mazama Lodge-supported fundraising event—the Badger Creek Chuck-Wagon Weekend. Finally, she is recognized as the person that made this year’s lodge-supported Sixth Annual Round-the-Mountain Hike a well-organized trek that might not have occurred without her assistance due to the Dollar Lake fire. She negotiated with Forest Service personnel, re-wrote the trail usage hiking plan, stared down the fire and, with quick thinking and on-her-feet tenacity, produced a thoroughly-enjoyable, profitable and soremuscles grins-all-around weekend. She remains unfazed, unassuming and amazingly capable. We are greatly indebted to Sojo Hendrix, our 2010-2011 Parker Cup Award recipient for all she has contributed to our fine organization.

Trail Trip Awards 1,000 Miles: Rex Breunsbach 25 Leads: Gary Bishop, Bob Breivogel, Rex Breunsbach, John Craeger, Greg Justice, Terry Lawson, Wayne Lincoln, John McGilvra, Matt Reeder 50 Leads: Sue Brickey, Amy Brown, Wayne Lincoln, Meg Linza, Kelly Marlin, James Selby, Andrew Tipton, Jeff Welter 100 Leads: Rick Amodeo, Kate Evans, Daniel Van Rossen 150 Leads: Robert Smith 400 Leads: David Braem, Tom Guyot 1,000 Leads: Richard Getgen 25 Trail Tending Leads: Rick Pope

Sue Koch, Randy Osborne, Steve Scovill Awarded to those who successfully summit Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, and Mt. Adams.

Oregon Cascades Matt Carter, Quentin Carter, Randy Osborne Awarded to those who complete the major Northwest Peaks in the Oregon Cascades: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, ThreeFingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister.

16 Major NW Peaks John Meckel, Randy Osborne, John Peters Awarded to those who summit the following: starting from the south in California with Mt. Shasta, followed by South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Shuksan, Mt. Baker, and Mt. Olympus.

Leadership Awards 5-Point Leadership Daniel Bailey, Bill McLoughlin, George Shay 10-Point Leadership Bill McLoughlin 15-Point Leadership Bruce Yatvin The leadership awards are given for leads of successful ascents on the Sixteen Major Peaks. A point system determines eligibility, with one point credited for leads and one-half point for assistant leads. Points are cumulative from one award to the next. • The 5-Point Award requires five points, including three successful leads, two of which have been on the Guardian Peaks. • The 10-Point Award requires ten points, including six successful leads, three of which have been on the Guardian Peaks. • The 15-Point Award requires 15 points, including nine successful leads, four of which have been on the Guardian Peaks. Opposite page photos: Top Left: Executive Director Lee Davis speaking to the crowd. Top Right: Left to Right, Patrice Cook, Patrick McCormick, Meg Goldberg, Ann Griffin, unidentified and Ginger Remy enjoying the festivities. Middle Left: Climbing Committee co-chair, Steve Warner, and his wife Rosalie. Middle Right: Mazamas enjoying the plentiful food and drink. Bottom Left: The customary tossing of the Sholes axe. Outgoing president George Cummings (right) makes the toss to incoming president, Doug Couch. Bottom Right: Emcee of the evening, Tim Scott (right) chats with Lee Shaver (left) prior to the event. Photos: Jerry Stelmack

Committee Reports Adventurous Young Mazamas

Following the silent auction and social hour, Tim Scott served as Master of Ceremonies for the awards portion of the evening. As tradition goes, outgoing president George Cummings tossed the ice axe to our new president, Doug Couch. The various committees honored members’ accomplishments throughout the past year. The Climbing Committee included a Powerpoint display with their presentation. Jerry Stelmack was on hand to take photos of award recipients. The committee was delighted to have last year’s Honorary Member, Alan Watts, as our guest speaker. He is credited with inventing sport climbing using his father’s improvised gear. His Powerpoint presentation chronicled his climbing days from the time he was a young child until the present. Alan proved to be an entertaining speaker who held the audience captive. His list of rock-climbing credits is extensive. As tradition goes, Jack Grauer and Jeff Andrew wrapped up the event with a sing-along to the tunes of The Happy Wanderer and Auld Lang Syne. Thank you to all who attended. Members: Lesley Langan, chair; Sara Marinucci-Seevers, Lacy Turner. Dyanne Foster, council liaison. Silent Auction Subcommittee Members: Ann Griffin, chair; Patrice Cook, Meg Goldberg, Jean Hillebrand.

by Paul Kallmann

The goals of the Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) are to attract younger people into Mazama membership and to provide a friendly avenue into the many opportunities within the Mazamas. AYM offers activities geared to those in their 20s, 30s, and early 40s, though we welcome people of any age to all of our events. Our primary methods of promoting membership are to inform new attendees about BCEP and the Hike-to-the-Summit climbs. In the past year, AYM has led many events, including hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, rock climbing, backpacking and car-camping trips. Some of our destinations have included Dog Mountain, Falls Creek Falls, Ape Canyon, Bull of the Woods and Indian Heaven. We offered our annual Winter Weekend at the Mazama Lodge, where we had snowshoeing and cross-country skiing during the day, and sledding, board games and ping-pong tournaments in the evening. We offered our annual Nesika Lodge weekend in conjunction with the Trails Club of Oregon, held our annual Smith Rock weekend, monthly Pub Nights, and monthly rock gym Climb Nights at Club Sport during the winter months. AYM continues to work hard to partner with other Mazama committees and outside organizations such as Club Sport and the Trails Club of Oregon. In the past year, we have started an AYM Facebook fan page to give more exposure to our activities. We continue efforts to expand participation through the use of social media sites and outreach to potential hike leaders and committee members who can help us in reaching our goals. Members: Paul Kallmann, chair; Jerry Adams, Jodie Adams, Ryan Christie, Karl Langenwalter, Daniel Mick, Sarah Miller, Jake Schwartzman, Richard Stellner. Sarah Lewins, council liaison.

Climbing by Steve Warner

The Climbing Committee’s goal for the 2010-2011 year was to provide climb leaders, provisional leaders, and those who have entered the Leader Development Program the opportunity to become certified and stay certified with a simpler process. The very first order of business was to have all certifications for climb leaders be three years (CPR and Rock Rescue haven’t changed), allowing Avalanche 1 for the ICS and Ski Mountaineering programs to be full Avalanche 1 curriculum equivalency. The Climbing Committee completed the Leader Development Program and Continuing Education for Climb Leader Manuals, which were made available on the Mazama Climb Leader Website. Our continuing goal is to better serve and communicate with our climb leaders and make available ways for them to stay informed on their leader status. Our year wasn’t without its fair share of bumps. Several climb leaders that have served the Mazamas for many years with an enormous amount of commitment have retired from leading. Also the Climbing Committee had three dedicated members leave after several years of service. Those bumps were smoothed over by promoting a number of individuals to provisional leader and full climb leader status, and Climbing Committee adding the valuable services of Daniel Bailey, George Shay, Shirley Welch and Bruce Yatvin. Our goal is to recruit new individuals into the Leader Development Program

Annual Celebration by Lesley Langan

This year’s Annual Celebration took place at the Doubletree Hotel at Lloyd Center. Members received a warm welcome from Helen Hansen and Jen Jordan at the door. The first hour and a half included the silent auction chaired by Ann Griffin. The auction successfully raised $2,800. Along with the auction, members enjoyed socializing and a spread of light appetizers. Back by popular demand, a variety of glutenfree cakes were available from Sweet Pea Bakery. Members purchased $550 in raffle tickets, with the proceeds supporting the Capital Campaign.

as well as retain our current hard-working and committed climb leaders. Our Equipment Room (Rope Room) has always been a troubled spot. With so many climb leaders and assistants coming and going, our committee was able to provide a way to have a manager organize and catalog all gear and equipment currently available. With Bruce Yatvin acting as manager, and having several volunteers assist him, our committee was provided with correct numbers of ropes and pickets, which enabled us to purchase additional gear. Our goal is to keep lines of communication open with all Mazama class coordinators and climb leaders so our inventory of gear is available for their use. We thank the individuals that have served the Mazamas on our committee this year, both past and present. We understand the personal obligations of such a role and their continued enthusiasm for the Mazama organization. Members: Steve Warner, chair; Daniel Bailey, Ryan Christie, Dragan Dokic, Whit Fellers, John Meckel, Nate Mullins, Adam Nawrot, George Shay, Shirley Welch, Bruce Yatvin, John Youngman. George Cummings, council liaison.

tion, as well as beautiful jewelry from local Portland artists. Speaking of prAna, also in late November the CRAMS Committee aunfassisted with an event at the Portland Rock Gym. In conjunction with the grand opening of the PrAna Portland store, the PRG and prAna teamed up to host a Citizen Climbing Competition with prAna athlete and special guest judge Steph Davis. In 2012, the committee is going to focus on auditing our current inventory of promotional materials and will be looking at the possibility of developing new materials for the year. In addition, our committee is working to set aside time to have a strategic discussion about better engaging the organization in outreach activities, appearances at community events, and working with climbing-related stores and companies. As always, the CRAMS Committee is on the lookout for folks who love to get out in the community and tell the Mazamas’ story. Could that be you? Probably… Members: Michael Campbell and Stephanie Spence, co-chairs; Gary Ballou, Shem Harding, Matt Lyon, David Wedge.

Conservation

Community Relations & Membership Services

by John Rettig

The Conservation Committee divides its activities into four major areas: • Providing guidance for Mazamas to engage in a high level of environmental responsibility when carrying out our activities. • Encouraging sustainable practices in our organization and for members’ lifestyles. • Advocating for important conservation causes. • Participating in coalitions with other conservation organizations on key issues and building a broad support base for the positions we advocate. Over the past year, we achieved three major victories with our coalition partners on issues that have taken years to reach resolution: • The application for a proposed gambling casino in Cascade Locks, facing an almost certain veto from the governor’s office, was withdrawn. We had opposed it based upon the impact to scenic resources, air quality, and traffic generated. • Off-highway vehicle (OHV) usage in the Mt. Hood National Forest is now restricted. It previously was allowed on all 2,463 miles of roads, and cross-country travel was allowed. With this decision, OHV users will be restricted to about 143 miles of designated roads and trails in limited regions. • An application for the proposed Palomar LNG pipeline through the Mt. Hood National Forest was withdrawn, as proponents faced a tenacious and broad-based opposition to this ill-advised project. New or ongoing issues include (coordinating or affiliated agencies are in parentheses): • We commented on the Cooper Spur land-swap draft proposal and scoping letter (CSWF, Sierra Club, Oregon Wild, Bark, Crag, Audubon, and others). • We opposed the massive Dbug timber sale in the Crater

by Michael Campbell

The Community Relations and Membership Services Committee, also known as CRAMS, had a banner year. We continued to help the organization by marketing events, developing press releases, and hosting our big event of the year— Discovery Night. The CRAMS Committee started off the year with marketing of the Used Equipment Sale. The committee was able to get the word out about Mazama members letting go of their used, but cool, gear. This event was a great chance for hikers, climbers, cross-country skiers, and all outdoor folks to find some great deals—and we were happy to help be a part of it. The Mazamas’ Discovery Night was a great success this year. The event brought in well over 200 people! And get this…we signed up 19 new members right on the spot. Kudos to the individuals who just so happen to be carrying summit photos in their wallets. That’s an accomplishment in and of itself! We worked with a cadre of local and national outdoor companies for raffle items, and had a number of local stores participate in the evening’s festivities. Some of the donors included Climb Max, the Outdoor Store, NorthFace, Portland Rock Gym, Patagonia, REI and a whole slew of others. One of the new wonderful friends of the Mazamas, prAna, also showed up to the event. The committee ended the year on a high note, helping out with several high-profile events. Portland (and the Mazamas) welcomed prAna to the community with open arms in late November, and CRAMS was there to help tell climbers, one and all, about the benefits of Mazama membership. This fine addition to the community joined the neighborhood of Northwest Portland at the corner of NW 23rd and Irving. Only their second store, this retail outlet features the entire prAna collec-

Lake area (Environment Oregon). • We commented on the route of the proposed BPA power line through an area near Silver Star Mountain. • We commented on the draft Collawash Road Decommissioning in the Mt. Hood National Forest (Bark). • We (again) opposed the Cascade Locks Casino as it approached the final decision. (FOCG and many others). • We announced support for a new initiative to expand the North Cascades National Park (American Alps Legacy Project). • We asked for clear protections in the proposed changes for the National Forest Management Act (Ourforestsourfuture.org, Oregon Wild). • We led a coalition in opposition to the Environmental Assessment for the proposed Timberline Downhill Mountain Bike Facility (FOMH, Oregon Wild, Sierra, and many others). • We supported the Volcano Country Wild and Scenic Rivers Campaign in the Mount St. Helens area (GPTF). • We asked USFWS for ESA protection to be restored for the Northern Rocky Mountain gray wolf. We continued our commitment to sequester CO2 through two tree-planting projects in the Mt. Hood National Forest. This was our third year organizing tree-planting projects, and we will continue in the future. Each project we complete sequesters 2-3 percent of our organization’s carbon footprint; this is cumulative year after year and will eventually become a very important part of our offset program. And finally, we moved ahead on a challenge for the future: We initiated our formal campaign for the Mazamas to become carbon neutral, and will be taking some of the first steps in this direction within the next few months. The committee awarded grants to nonprofit organizations to fund environmental work beneficial to the region. This year’s grants totaled $14,900, and went to six organizations: • $2,500 to Oregon Wild for operational support advocating for protecting an additional 18,000 acres that were left out of the 2009 Mt. Hood Wilderness legislation. • $2,400 to Bark to Restore Mt. Hood: Roads to Trails, a program resulting in three on-the-ground projects that improve quiet recreational opportunities and watershed health. • $2,500 to CRAG Law Center to help with consideration for upcoming proposals for development on Mt. Hood. • $2,500 to Oregon Natural Desert Association to support a Wilderness Stewardship Program to restore disturbed lands, engaging over 600 volunteers annually. • $2,500 to Gifford Pinchot Task Force to develop and implement an aggressive campaign against a 3,000-acre copper mine adjacent to Mount St. Helens. • $2,500 to Hells Canyon Preservation Council for The Wildlife Watchers project, which involves training volunteers to gather on-the-ground data about wildlife presence and habitat. We once again supplemented the Conservation Grant budget with Ellis Conservation Funds, which are restricted to wilderness only, in order to increase the total granted.

In August, we hosted the 79th Annual Convention of the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs at the Mazama Lodge. Mazamas are one of the founding organizations behind FWOC, and their first annual convention was at our original Mt. Hood Lodge. Members: John Rettig, chair; Lisa-Natalie Anjozian, Mitch Auerbach, Barry Buchanan, Kate Evans, Walter Keutel, Bob Lothian, Barbara Weiss, Barbara Wilson, Joan Zuber. Matt Carter, council liaison.

Critical Incident Debriefing Team by Andrew Bodien

Since the 1990s, the Mazamas have recognized the importance of providing emotional support for those involved in a traumatic incident. Even with the best training and preparation accidents and near misses can happen during Mazama events. The Critical Incident Debriefing Team (CIDT) is a group of peers and mental health professionals trained to offer a safe and supportive talking/listening place. It is our hope that this will allow others to express their feelings and needs and move forward in their lives with mutual support. It is a confidential, voluntary and educational process, not a performance critique. Last year we recruited four new members to our team. This year we focused on getting them trained. The highlight of the year was a full day of training and mock debriefings provided by Nancy Nixon. Nancy is a Licensed Clinical Social Worker and a Critical Incident Stress Management trainer. We are grateful for her insights and support. Outreach has always been an important part of our mission, and this year has not been an exception. As in past years we gave presentations to Climb Leader Update, Mountaineering First Aid, Intermediate Climb School and the Basic Climbing Education Program. For the first time, we had a presence at the annual Discovery Night. We found it helpful to reach out to a new audience by venturing into this new venue. We also peered inward to review our processes for organizing debriefings with the hope of finding efficiencies. Bringing multiple parties together for a debriefing is a formidable scheduling challenge, so this was a useful exercise for our team. So far we have identified several best practices which we hope to execute in the future. During the course of the year we facilitated three debriefings. This year we’re also saying goodbye to Paul Underwood. Paul has made an invaluable contribution over the years and we will miss him. If you were part of an accident, rescue, or near-miss on a Mazama activity, we can help you heal from that traumatic experience. You can contact the Mazamas Executive Director or any member of CIDT to initiate a debriefing. Members: Andrew Bodien, chair; Ken Biehler, Diana Clark, Terri Cummings, Lonnie Feather, Sharon Flegal, Katie Foehl, Andrea McKee, Laura Saddler, Jared Seger, Paul Underwood, Beth Westbrook, Marina Wynton. Billie Goodwin, council liaison.

The ASI Subcommittee out on the Elliot Glacier during their Rigging for Rescue Class. Photo: Wim Aarts

Education

Advanced Snow and Ice Subcommittee

by Sarah Bradham

by Tim Scott

The Education Committee is finding its legs in its second year of operation. We once again held the annual class scheduling meeting in June with all subcommittee chairs attending and providing their prospective dates for their classes. We were able to work out potential date and resource conflicts before any schedules were published. We worked with Climbing Committee to develop an orientation session for the incoming chairs of climbing class subcommittees to familiarize them with both Education and Climbing Committees for their class operations. We worked with the Strategic Planning Task Force to outline goals and outcomes for the next five years of committee operations and classes. We have already begun work on creating additional Skill Builder class offerings, which was one of the main goals of the strategic plan. We worked with Climbing Committee to develop protocols for the new educational rock climbing walls and began offering several Skill Builder classes that utilized this resource. We worked with subcommittee chairs to create an online feedback form template that could be customized for each class. We introduced this with the ICS class in May and it was well-received. We hope to bring this tool to all the classes in the upcoming year. Members: Sarah Bradham, chair; Vivianne DeBros, Annie Lamberto, Ted Light, Brian McCormick, Daniel Mick, Layne Russell. George Cummings, council liaison.

This year started off rough, but finished with great success. The winter climbing, organized to put into practice what we learned the previous autumn, didn’t work as well as anticipated, with all of the planned climbs getting cancelled due to weather. At least the weather was nice in Ouray, Colorado, where the largest group to date played in the vertical ice world for a week in January. The subcommittee implemented a skills test during the summer’s application process in order to verify that applicants could demonstrate the minimum skills necessary to keep up with the material of the class. The test was well-received by the applicants, and the committee was pleased with its initial implementation. In August, the ASI subcommittee, supported by the Climbing Committee, Executive Council and the generous donations of Pat Haythorn and Francis Reuter, brought to Mt. Hood an instructor from Rigging for Rescue, an international technical rope-work consulting firm, to instruct us in the complexities of improvised small-team self-rescue in the alpine environment. It was a huge success and we look forward to sharing what we learned with climb leaders and with other classes. Our first chance to share this new information was with the new ASI class. This year’s class of five students plunged into the crevasses on Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams with great enthusiasm. We’re all looking forward to more climbing in the vertical world this winter! Members: Wim Aarts, chair; David Byrne, Keith Campbell, Derek Castonguay, Steve Heikkila, Adam Nawrot, Tim Scott, Jed Stasch.

Advanced Rock/Beginning Trad Subcommittee by Rhonda Ramirez

Advanced Rock hosted a large and successful season beginning in March 2011. We had 21 students enter the course and all 21 completed every one of its requirements. In addition, we had over 50 volunteers providing over 1,000 hours of their hard-earned time! A core team of six individuals (see below) volunteered countless hours to make certain that the class was wellthought-out and offered the best lectures, lecturers and field sessions. Just as important, they made sure everyone had fun learning the ropes. Members: Patricia Cook and Rhonda Ramirez, co-coordinators; Terry Campbell, Jeff Hawkins, Elana Mater, Jeff Welter.

Basic Climbing Education Program Subcommittee by Greg Scott

BCEP had another successful year in 2011. Our program introduced a new conservation initiative and sponsored a physical fitness and nutrition study conducted by Janet Peterson, Mazama member and recent lecturer at Linfield College. Twenty-four leaders led or co-led 20 groups with a total of 210 graduating students. The conservation initiative encouraged students to participate in a series of challenges aimed at increasing awareness about the Leave No Trace ethic and a variety of other approaches we climbers can take to reduce our impact on the environment. Nearly all students and leaders participated in this voluntary challenge. Approximately 100 students and dozens of leaders were randomly selected to participate in the fitness and nutrition study. This research project is being conducted to learn about the benefits a program such as BCEP can have on the physical well-being of its participants. The Mazamas were incredibly fortunate with the timing of the MMC climbing walls as Rocky Butte was declared off-limits for climbing use this year. We ran the team leaders through a practice evening at the new climbing walls to help them prepare for the upcoming classes and field events. Students and leaders greatly appreciated the walls and especially the fact that we could all teach and learn in a dry environment instead of contending with the rain and moss at Rocky Butte. The curriculum for BCEP did not change this year as it continues to provide a solid foundation for climbers who want to gain climbing experience and pursue future Mazama educational programs. Members: Greg Scott, coordinator; Paul Underwood, assistant coordinator; Jeanine Brown, Heather Campbell, Tara Gedman, Sue Giordano, Laura Greenwalt, Andrew Holman, Annie Lamberto, Petra LeBaron, Kari Lyons, Ryan Maher, Elizabeth Sullivan.

BCEP rock practice at Horsethief Butte.

Photo: Bob Breivogel

First Aid Subcommittee by Abram Hernandez

The First Aid subcommittee completed another successful year. Our subcommittee taught two Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) classes, that were both well-attended. We also taught an MFA refresher course. Approximately 80 students completed MFA and more than 30 of these were re-certified. Our classes continued to receive strong positive reviews from students. We have an ongoing high level of commitment from committee members and are looking forward to the new year. Members: Abram Hernandez, chair; Lisa Burton, Janet Peterson, Janette Pipkin, Todd Torres, Benjamin Vincent, Brian Wetzel.

Intermediate Climbing School Subcommittee by Bob Murphy

During 2010-2011, 45 people applied, 42 were selected, and 36 met all the graduation requirements. The subcommittee turned the ICS web page into a class

portal, publishing an up-to-date ICS Google calendar with lecture notes and a class gear list. We developed a student handbook laying out all expectations and safety requirements and published it on the ICS web page. We examined making ICS more modular and collegiate, with the intent of completing this but decided against it for several reasons. We believed that the bonding experienced by most ICS students might be diminished. In addition, allowing students to take Skill Builders as a substitute for ICS modules would have been inadequate in our opinion, as the Skill Builders were designed with different goals in mind. Because ICS represents the minimum level of training to become a climb leader, we sought to closely align ICS curriculum and field sessions with climb leader skills. We enhanced anchor-building practice to ensure that all students could build solid rappel anchors. We added some additional practice time and had each student build an anchor on their own at Horsethief Butte without input from another student or coordinator. Once approved by an experienced Advanced Rock graduate, each student rappelled on their anchor. Also, many ICS students are climb assistants and our graduates will now be able to competently rig a rappel anchor in the unfortunate event that a leader becomes incapacitated. We also took the 16 hours of avalanche awareness in previous ICS classes and added 8 hours of lecture and field session reviews with the help of the Ski Mountaineering Committee and with the approval of Climbing Committee. By enhancing our avalanche awareness training, we added 42 Avalanche 1-level climbers to the Mazamas and recertified or trained nine additional leaders and Leader Development candidates at no additional cost to the Mazamas. Lastly, we added competency tests at the end of the year. Students were amazed that they were able to demonstrate competency on all the ICS skills in a two-day period. This sense of accomplishment by the students was truly aweinspiring. Members: Bob Murphy, coordinator; Darrell Weston, assistant coordinator; Heather Campbell, Beth Flanagan, Bridget Martin, Jay Satak, Tim Scott, Josh Tippet, Steve Warner, Greg Willmarth.

Nordic Subcommittee is working to increase participation in Nordic ski tours. Last year Ed Rea led several Nordic tours and the committee is actively searching for additional instructors to lead tours in the 2011–2012 ski season. The committee is also seeking better ways to communicate upcoming tours with Mazama members and searching for strategies to engage our Nordic students in Mazama activities after the completion of Nordic classes. Members: Elliot Mecham, chair; Ed Conyngham, Karl Lamb, Carol Lane, Stacey Ozer, Lynne Pedersen, Lia Ribacchi, Karl Steady. Friends of the Subcommittee: Cave Huntley, Byron Rendor, Ed Wortman.

Ski Mountaineering Subcommittee by Mike Ondeck

The 2010–11 Ski Mountaineering class had many new changes, setting a course for the future by adding to the program’s budget, improving training, and offering great skitouring options in Washington. The cost for the class was increased by $100 per student. This new funding will add to our budget for training and allow the Ski Mountaineering program to give back to the organization. The book Back Country Skiing by Martin Volken was included with the price for the class and given to students on their first day. This new book is the bible for ski mountaineering and is similar to the Freedom of the Hills for climbing. In addition, eight instructors attended an instructional ski tour set up by Martin Volken of Pro Ski. The instructors learned how to teach uphill techniques, new navigation methods and avalanche avoidance. This class offered its first multi-day tour at Crystal Mountain. The Boeing Ski Lodge was rented for two nights for 30 participants. Norse Peak can be climbed from the front door of the lodge. This was a great educational opportunity for practicing safe winter travel in completely new terrain for our students. Our Avalanche 1 Skill Builder was held at the Mazama Lodge in March. The subcommittee has started planning for next year: “The Back Country Film Festival” in December, a website to improve communications, a new two-day tour at Snoqualmie Pass, ski climbs for members, and new positions on the committee to improve communication with the organization. Members: Mike Ondeck, chair; Eric Rutz, class coordinator; Sunny Freeman, avalanche Skill Builder leader; Wim Aarts, Jeremy Buck, Will Driesson, Thom Dunham, William Emerson, Kevin Hardy, Claudie Herberger, Gwen Hunt, Richard Iverson, Mark Meyer, Layne Russell, Nick Scaief, Jay Stagnone.

Nordic Subcommittee by Elliott Mecham

Despite rain, sleet, snow and hail, the Nordic School offered a total of 12 classes to 99 students. In addition to classes in beginning, intermediate and advanced Nordic skiing, classes were also offered in Nordic backcountry and Nordic downhill (telemark) skiing. Thanks to a concerted effort to recruit new instructors led by Karl Steady, and the dedication of many longtime instructors, the Nordic School has not had to turn away any students over the last two years due to lack of space in our classes. Twenty-eight instructors and assistant instructors worked to make the Nordic School a success during the 2010-2011 ski season. In addition to continuing our excellent Nordic School, the

Skill Builder Subcommittee

received funds to climb in the Gunsight Range of the North Cascades. The committee expects to continue to serve Mazamas and the local community under the leadership of incoming chair Ron Fridell. Members: Terry Donahe, chair; Chuck Aude, Brett Cassidy, William Emerson, Ron Fridell, Jeremy Keen, Dash Pranabesh, Mike Smith. Bill McLoughlin, council liaison.

by Brian McCormick

The Skill Builder coordinator is continuing to assess member needs associated with our Skill Builder Program. We are exploring four new introductory clinics: • Survival • Hiking • Backpacking • Snowshoeing We are also investigating a Leave No Trace master education class to train a Mazama LNT leader for in-house Skill Builder sessions. We are also examining how to combine summer and winter rock programs to establish a continuous rock review utilizing the Mazamas indoor training wall. Skill Builders for 2011 included Rock Anchors, Rock Review, Avalanche Awareness, Crevasse Rescue, Wilderness Navigation, and Mountain Photo 101. Coordinator: Brian McCormick.

Financial Affairs Committee by Dan Crisp

At the beginning of this year the Financial Affairs Committee increased its membership from two to six. This allowed us the resources to work more closely with the organization’s almost 30 committees and sub-committees and their separate budgets. We are most engaged during the preparation of the annual budget and the quarterly budget re-forecasts, so it took us a quarter or two to work the bugs out. During the year, we were requested to assist in reviewing audit proposals. We reviewed the proposals, talked with the audit firm partners and their references, and prepared a summary. This was presented at the August council meeting, where a new audit firm was selected. Looking ahead, in addition to growing closer to the committees we support, we anticipate helping the organization work toward achieving its financial goals, as laid out in the recently updated strategic plan. Members: Dan Crisp, chair; Eric Brainich, Dian Helser, Steve Hooker, Vincent Pimont, Rick Schmidt. Tom Bard, council liaison.

Expedition Committee by Terry Donahe

The Expedition Committee had a very productive year. We raised nearly $13,000 in revenue by hosting three very successful fundraisers and sponsoring several classes and Skill Builders. The committee gave out $5,900 in grants to five expeditions. Internationally-renowned climber and guide Peter Whittaker presented “Antarctica: A Journey to the Bottom of the World.” Jason Edwards, a guide with International Mountain Guides who has over 300 ascents of Mt. Rainier, presented “Exploring Mt. Rainier.” Local climber Jason Wheeler spoke about going light and fast on “Denali’s Cassin Ridge.” The committee taught Snow Camping to a record number of participants, including a group of Boy Scouts. We sponsored two Wilderness Navigation Skill Builders, which were taught by John Godino and Josh Lockerby. In response to strong interest, the committee put on three Crevasse Rescue Skill Builders. The committee will offer the Expedition Class in 2012. The committee gave Ryan Christie’s team of four (Brad Farra, Darrell Weston and Scott Howe) a grant to climb the Lotus Flower Tower in the Northwest Territories of Canada. We gave John Frieh a grant to climb a new mixed line on the South Face of Mt. Burkett in Alaska. Past committee chair Chuck Aude and his team of three other climbers, David Byrne, Keith Dubanevich and Carrie Friedewald, were awarded a grant to climb in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Scott Bennett and his partner, Blake Herrington, received a grant for a free ascent of the West Face of Mt. Bute in the Coast Range of British Columbia. The committee gave the team of Bill Amos and Tyler Adams funds to climb the Jefferson Lake Spires in Oregon. Jason Schilling and his climbing partner, Steph Abegg,

Information Technology Task Force by Vidya Shivkumar

In 2011 the Information Technology Committee worked with NetRaising to build the new Mazama website, which included a new site layout. All content pages from the existing website were successfully transferred to the new platform. A dedicated team of volunteers then began the task of setting up navigation for the new site and of editing content pages to ensure all hyperlinks worked, a necessary step in launching the new site. These volunteers spent several hours learning the content management system and working on the content pages. We are eagerly looking forward to completing this final task and launching the new website in 2012. Thanks to those Mazamas who helped with the website this past year, all of whom would probably have preferred to be outside but helped with these often-mundane tasks: Bob Breivogel, Andrea Cohen, Tom Davidson, Cary Fuller, Sue Giordano, John Godino, Eric Mayhew, Karen Mullendorff and Tim Welch. Task Force members: Vidya Shivkumar, chair; Lee Davis. Paul Steger, council liaison.

Library and Historical Collections Committee by Barbara Morrison

Eight new Styrofoam heads were put to work modeling an exhibit of our extensive head-gear collection. Also added to our showcase abilities was a display case donated to the Mazamas by the Mountain Shop. This case was perfect for presenting the large silver Mazama Cup Race Trophy presented in 1936 by Mazama President Edward Hughes. Circulation of books, DVDs and bound magazines increased from 783 last year to 855. Overall, gifts have increased from 89 to 123 individual donations. The most important gift historically was a copy of W.G. Steele’s The Mountains of Oregon, donated by Keith Mischke. The volume is inscribed by the author to P.L. Campbell, dated Mt. Hood, July 24, 1894. Sometimes we get a photograph collection that we knew existed but for many reasons the owner was not able to donate it. In particular, Barbara Bond donated her digital images of our 2007 move to our current location. Sometimes we get a photograph collection that we knew existed but its whereabouts were unknown and presumed lost. Jim O’Connor of the USGS has been studying the glaciers of the Three Sisters since the early 1990s. Jim has obtained some of the negatives taken by Dr. Ruth (Hopson) Keen, documenting the retreat of Collier Glacier during the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. Since the Research Committee often paid Ruth for her travel expenses and film, Jim let the Mazamas scan the negatives and generate prints. Sometimes we get a photograph collection that we did not know existed and the donors just walk in and give us the images with no prior notification. This happened twice this year; once when David Cochran donated three albums belonging to his grandfather, Mazama Harrison H. Cochran; and once when Mark Sullivan allowed us to copy photos from the albums of his great uncle, Ed Peterson. Both albums contained black and white prints from the 1910s. In order for the museum staff to accurately date early equipment, we have slowly collected old gear catalogs. Dennis Olmstead has brought in numerous catalogs from the 1970s and 1980s that he found in his attic. Nowadays old Chouinard catalogs, clothing, and gear sells very well online. Paul Winther purchased numerous Chouinard items in the past and brought in about 15 items of clothing labeled Chouinard or Great Pacific Iron Works. We hope to put together a display that duplicates what could be bought from a Chouinard catalog in the 1960s and 1970s. Tyler Adams, a rock climber from Corvallis, has been replacing old bolts on Oregon climbs from the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. He has donated several historical artifacts, including bolt hangers from the first ascents of Turkey Monster and the SE Face of Rooster Rock (Menagerie). The most significant donation was photocopies of a summit register from Wolf Rock that covers the development of difficult rock climbing from 1965 to 1983. Ed Wortman donated an ice axe he obtained in 1972 from Howell’s Sports Center in Portland. The Simond axe was

Several ice axes from the Library and Historical archives. Photo: Jeff Thomas

manufactured in France and designed to separate into two pieces by utilizing a metal collar with a pin, thereby fitting easily into a pack. Jule Gilfillan, producer for Oregon Field Guide and daughter of Mazama Warren Gilfillan, discovered that the Mazamas had a library and archive. Not long after filming for two full days in the MMC Library, a short segment appeared on Oregon Public Broadcasting with Jeff Thomas presenting some of the highlights of our collections. A $5,000 donation was given to the library by Fred Gullette. Fred led climbs for the Mazamas in the 1950s and generously gave us the money without restrictions. We used his gift to catch up on a backlog of images that had been scanned but not printed. It also allowed us to print and frame four contemporary climbing photographs donated by Mazama Andrew Holman. To sum up, this has been an exceptionally busy and productive year in the ongoing assembly of Mazama mountaineering history and that of the evolution of tools, equipment, and photographic records. Members: Tom Dinsmore and Barbara Morrison, co-chairs; Kelly Bacon, Nancy Bentley, Gary Beyl, Vera Dafoe (museum curator), Mary Davis, Stan Enevoldsen, Bob Lockerby (librarian), Barbara Marquam (archivist), Pat Sims, Jeff Thomas (photo archivist). Doug Couch, council liaison. Friends of the committee: Cecille Beyl, Peter Green (rare book consultant), Hally van Katwijk, Patrick Feeney, Carolyn Jenkins, Jessica Palfryman, Johnyne Wascavage, Robert Weber.

Lodge Committee by Rick Amodeo

2010-2011 was a successful year for the Mazama Lodge and the Lodge Committee. With a dedicated group of 10 on the committee (yes, we can use two more!) and approximately 110 members of the “Friends of the Lodge,” we were able to get many things accomplished. These accomplishments include: • Keeping the motivated and longtime lodge lover, Charles Barker, as our lodge manager. In addition, we have his

trusty sidekick and caretaker, Max Rupert, who hails from Syracuse, NY. Max and Charles have kept things running well. And, during busy periods, Phil the cook smoothes out the bumps in supply and demand. • We experimented with a bus service from Portland to the lodge and cross-country ski areas. Unfortunately ridership was too low to make this an on-going program for the Lodge Committee. • We had the major spring and fall work parties, and approximately six other focused work parties dealing with firewood, lodge weatherization and the snow wall. • We received a permit from Clackamas County for the snow wall and have almost completed the work. • We completed a $16,000 weatherization upgrade, that will make the lodge more efficient and comfortable than it ever has been, while reducing our carbon footprint. • The lodge continues to host great revenue-generating events such as the Round-the-Mountain weekend, the winter family weekend, Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve. • Groups that reserved the lodge included the Snowballs, African-American Outdoor Club, First Descent, PCT Association, Focus the Nation, Sun Program, Yoga Weekend, Art Days, AYM, ICS and Cooking Class. • Thanks to Charles, our community outreach has improved as the lodge is welcoming more school groups. • The lodge had some interesting new events this year, such as the Teddy Roosevelt Dinner with a famous impersonator, the first annual Badger Creek Chuckwagon Weekend, and Hiker’s Week at the lodge. • During the year we explored ways to increase usage of the lodge, including re-implementing the rope tow. After serious consideration it was determined that it was not cost effective due to the expense of an environmental study, nor did we have sufficient resources to make it successful. • Overall, our lodge is operating efficiently and within budget. We look forward to years of use by current and future generations of Mazamas. Members: Rick Amodeo, chair; Leah Ilem, Craig Leis, Angela Nelson, Marie Quarles, Annmarie Rainford, Jay Satak, Travis Schweitzer, Mike Treadwell. Bill McLoughlin, council liaison. Friend of the Committee: Al Papesh.

An Old-Timer’s hike to Lacamas Lake. Just one of numerous hikes put on by the committee this year. Left to right are Marianna Kearney, Billie Goodwin, Charles Jacobs, Jean Dunlap, Anne Jacobs and Alma Abrams. Photo: Unknown

Veterans Day get-together on November 11, 2010. It included a potluck, entertainment, photos and speakers. On December 9, 2010 we attended the Senior Theater holiday production at Alpenrose following lunch at Anne Jacobs’ home. Dick and Jane Miller hosted our July 4th annual potluck picnic at their lovely home on Cooper Mountain. Monthly walks for fall, winter and spring were held at: • Hoyt Arboretum • The Urban Arboretum on Ainsworth Street • Springwater Trail • Stub Stewart State Park • Wildwood BLM at Mt. Hood • Balch Creek at Macleay Park • Lacamas Lake Trail Members: Anne Jacobs, chair; Grace Bighouse, Helen Hanson, Rose Flodin, Heather Rosenwinkel, Bev Tolman. Billie Goodwin, council liaison.

Outing Committee by Paul Gerald

The Outing Committee continues to grow and to work with dedicated leaders to offer fantastic trips all over the U.S. and the world. Our behind-the-scenes work was mainly with Climbing Committee on getting more climb-focused outings going, and fine-tuning the processes for the two committees to work together. We also have embarked on several tasks derived from the Mazamas Strategic Plan, mainly to offer more affordable domestic outings. Following is the list of outings for 2010–2011, with leaders and assistants:

Old-Timers Committee by Anne Jacobs

Members of 25 years or more comprise about one third of the Mazama membership. Pins were sent to the 36 new 25-year and the 11 new 50-year members. Three program luncheons were held in the fall, winter and spring. Helen Hanson organized a well-attended Mazama

•

A trek in the jungles of Thailand, led by Greg Justice and assisted by Gary Beck. • A climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro, plus a safari in the area: Ryan Christie leader, Donovan Pacholl assisting. • Death Valley hiking and exploration: Bob Breivogel assisted by Diana Forester. • A trek in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, including a trip to Everest Base Camp and a climb of Island Peak, led by Jim Ronning and assisted by Donovan Pacholl. • A hiking and cultural tour of Tuscany, with Paul Gerald and Debi Danielson. • Day-hiking Mount Rainier National Park, with Richard Getgen and Robert Smith. • A day-hiking trip to the Northern Oregon Coast, led by Ray Sheldon and Stan Enevoldsen. • A hike of the Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier, led by Gary Bishop and Annie Lamberto. • Climbing a selected group of Colorado “14ers,” with Bob Breivogel, Jay Stagnone, and Tom Davidson. • A hiking and cultural tour of Peru, led by Ellen Gradison and Carol Bryan. • Hiking and scrambling in Northern Wales, led by Eugene Lewins and Rayce Boucher. What a great list and what a great job by all our leaders this year. Members: Paul Gerald, chair; Terri Cummings, Debi Danielson, Duane Egbers, Neal Keefer, Susanna Lyon, Janet Matthews, Darlene Nelson, Ginger Remy, Jim Ronning. Paul Steger, council liaison.

continents, from the Cascades to the Himalayas to the Andes to Kilimanjaro, and will also feature Turkey, Botswana, Patagonia, Mt. Everest, the Grand Canyon, the highest peaks in the 50 states, protection of the Columbia River Gorge and much more. Our new digital projector is bright enough to project highquality images even when the room is still lit by the early evening sun. The new improvements to the sound in the auditorium have been appreciated by all. We look forward to seeing you all at another exciting season of Mazamas programs. Members: Nancy Bentley and John Leary, co-chairs; Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Ric Russell. Sara Lewins, council liaison.

Publications Committee by Barry Maletzky

The Publications Committee is responsible for overseeing the publication of the Mazamas’ three publications: the Annual, Bulletin and Membership Directory. Activities this past year included: • Publishing the 2010 Annual and preparing to publish the 2011 Annual. This year all members of the committee will participate as co-editors and, for the first time in quite a while, some portions of the Annual will be in color. • Upgrading the look and content of the monthly Bulletin with more photos and more climb- and hike-related articles and regular features on conditioning, diet, recipes, Mazama history, gear reviews and interesting Mazama personalities. • Researching past issues of the Annual and our oral histories in order to share stories from older times in selected issues of the Bulletin. • Setting word limits on Bulletin articles so that we save more space for photos and stories of outdoor adventures. • Hiring a new Bulletin co-editor and a new advertising manager. • Searching for more advertising revenue from outdoorrelated retailers, including bicycle shops, car-rack dealers, footwear shops, etc. • Working with the new advertising manager to create a press kit. • Emphasizing, on the membership dues card, that members can opt out of receiving any or all of our three publications in print form and instead read these on the web. • Updating the Publication Style Guide. The Publications Committee also will continue the use of recycled paper for the Bulletin and include the Directory in the February issue of the Bulletin. Members: Barry Maletzky, chair; Anna Browne, Meg Goldberg, Doug Merritt, Diana Schweitzer, Ginny Sorensen, David Stein, Natalie Wessel, Alice Winczer. Doug Couch, council liaison. Friends of the committee: Sarah Bradham, Bob Breivogel, Steve Burton, Jack Grauer, Andrew Holman, Al Papesh, Jon Putnam.

Program Committee by John Leary

The Program Committee presented 25 shows from October 2010 through April 2011. Program contents originated from 17 countries and six continents covering foreign travel, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, history, environmental and scientific issues and events. There were shows presenting through-hiking the Pacific Coast Trail, photographing “The Avatars of Patagonia,” travel around the world on the cheap, best wildlife viewing in the Northwest, hiking the fiords of Norway, first ski descents and more. We went from Wyoming to Antarctica, from Bhutan to South Africa. We learned to track bears and other animals, saw the changes on Mount St. Helens from before May 10, 1980 through today, viewed a scientific program about our vanishing glaciers with photos from over 100 years ago and of course, we had numerous programs on activities and destinations in the Northwest. Our programs were attended by over 1,300 people averaging 54 persons per show with total donations of $1,250. Our two largest programs in attendance were shows on “First Ski Descents in Antarctica” by Peter Whittaker and a show on “Do It Yourself Nepal” by Kerry Loehr. We have 25 shows scheduled for the upcoming season. The presenters include professional photographers, authors, tour guides, ecologists, scientists and many of our talented Mazamas. Shows will include content from five different

Research Committee

Risk Management Committee

by Mike Faden

by Dennis Olmstead

The Mazamas Research Committee received a record 59 proposals this year: 11 standard grant applications and 48 graduate student grant applications. Many of the proposals were of high quality. We were able to fund three standard and four graduate student grants:

The Risk Management Committee (RMC) promotes continuous improvement in the safety of participants in Mazama activities by reviewing incident reports, performing safety audits of schools and programs and recommending improvements. We work with activity committees to implement new recommendations and with the Executive Council on Mazama policies that have risk issues. This year we replaced our emergency pager system with a 24/7 live-answering service. It will now be the Incident Notification System. Now leaders or members can call in from the field and use the Mazama phone number and, when the MMC is closed, the call will be routed to the answering service. As before, a Mazama member will be contacted and the call from the field will be returned. We feel this will serve our leaders in a much better fashion. Donna Vandall of the committee attended the annual Wilderness Risk Management Conference and reported back to RMC and to the Executive Council. Conference proceedings are available at: http://www.nols.edu/wrmc/resources. shtml. The committee started its safety review update of the Intermediate Climbing School. We also reviewed the new rules for the climbing wall at the MMC for risk issues. These were finalized. The Trail Trips Committee (TTC) presented its concept to RMC for a new D-hikes program. The program is summarized in the TTC report. We discussed with TTC members the risk implications of the program and helped fine-tune the concept. The RMC modified the incident report form to include questions about sharing the report with the Critical Incident Debriefing Team. We reviewed 12 incident reports that were submitted over the year and followed up with the leaders or injured parties where needed. We also reviewed the Strategic Planning Task Force survey and provided input on risk issues and started updates to the Critical Incident Management Plan. In addition, the RMC looked at the policy of serving beer at Discovery Night and decided that there is too much risk of having the public drink beer that we had provided and then driving home. Finally, we began to look at the Mazama insurance policy to see if improvements will be needed. Members: Dennis Olmstead, chair; Ken Biehler, Ann Brown, Terri Cummings, Bruce Hope, Caleb Sattgast , Tera Schroeder , Jake Schwartzman, Paul Steger, Donna Vandall, John Youngman. George Cummings, council liaison.

Standard Grants Martin LaFrenz, Portland State University, proposed mapping the locations and extents of “lost” alpine glaciers in the Southern Oregon Cascades. This information will advance our ability to predict how long ice is likely to persist in the remaining glaciated areas of Oregon: The lost glaciers of the Southern Oregon Cascades ($3,200). Peter Wimberger, the University of Puget Sound, proposed researching the evolutionary history and ecology of iceworms, one of the few animals that live solely in glaciers: Evolution and ecology of iceworms, Mesenchytraeus soligugus, and the glacial microbial community on the Sisters volcanoes, Oregon ($3,000). Jeff Antonelis-Lapp, Evergreen State College, proposed field work to research the natural history of the Sunrise/ Yakama Park area at Mount Rainier National Park: The place and its people: The natural history of the Sunrise/Yakama Park area at Mount Rainier National Park ($2,000). Graduate Student Grants Jessica Castillo, Oregon State University, proposed studying the landscape genetics of the American pika at sites such as Crater Lake National Park and Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge: Landscape Genetics of the American Pika (Ochotona princeps): Assessing the effects of climate change on a charismatic alpine species ($1,500). Nadia Jones, Portland State University, proposed investigating the holocene history of Mount Hood by dating the lateral moraines of Eliot Glacier, the largest glacier on the mountain: The Holocene history of Eliot Glacier, Mount Hood, Oregon ($1,500). Justin Ohlschlager, Portland State University, proposed studying how the area and volume of the glaciers on the Three Sisters volcanoes have changed over time. This project utilizes Mazama historical photographs: The changing surface area and volume of the glaciers on the Three Sister volcanoes, Oregon ($1,500). Nick Legg, Oregon State University, proposed analysis of large debris flows on Mt Rainier. With this information, agencies may be better equipped to predict large debris flow events and design infrastructure accordingly: Are large, destructive debris flows on the Cascade volcanoes driven by warming climate? A case study on Mount Rainier (Washington). $1,500. Members: Mike Faden (chair); Rebecca Atherton, Kathy Avalos, Gregg Baker, Tom Bennett, Robert Everhart, Steve Hinkle, Molly Schmitz. Matt Carter, council liaison.

Trail Trips Committee by Marty Hanson

The Trail Trips Committee (TTC) is fully staffed and with “friends” now totals 17 volunteers. However, we’re looking for more volunteers and friends for the Trail Tending Subcommittee.

heads and to not honor the annual parking passes many of us purchase. We are working with the Mazama staff to petition the Forest Service to disallow this practice. Members: Marty Hanson and Ken Carlson, co-chairs; Bob Breivogel, Rex Breunsbach, Sue Brickey, Charlene Degener, David Fickett, Sojo Hendrix, Flora Huber, Jim Selby, Sheri Smith, Caleb Sattgast, Jeff Welter, David Zeps. Paul Steger, council liaison. Friends of the Committee: Richard Getgen, Nancy Goering, Rick Pope, Bob Smith.

Trail Trips Hike at Fairy Falls along the Wahkeena Trail.

Photo: Richard Getgen

Trail Tending Subcommittee by Rick Pope

This last fiscal year, TTC leaders led over 900 events, about 30 fewer than the previous year (lower mainly due to our cooler, wetter weather). Rambles remained popular and constituted over 70 percent of the participation. Jean Cavanaugh and Sojo Hendrix coordinated the Roundthe-Mountain weekend at the lodge, which again attracted 50 participants and raised money for the lodge. It was wellreceived despite the changes in hiking routes necessitated by the Mt. Hood Dollar Lake fire. Sue Brickey organized our participation in the Forest Park “All Trails Challenge,” which raised nearly $50,000, part of which resulted in a donation to the Mazamas. Sojo Hendrix coordinated our Used Equipment Sale. By holding it on a Friday evening, it had its most successful sales total ever. Rick Pope coordinated our Trail Tending Subcommittee and the Mazama Trail was again one of the trails we maintained. Other trails we regularly maintain are Trapper Creek, Elk-King, Hardesty (Forest Park) and certain Columbia Gorge trails as requested. TTC has established a new class of hikes that will have a “D” as the designator on the hike schedule. These will offer more challenging routes and will often entail off-trail scrambling. Participants will see more challenges in new areas and experience harder hikes than the “C” hikes we now offer. With the expansion of the wilderness boundaries on Mt. Hood and on the Oregon side of the Columbia River Gorge, the TTC is required to limit numbers on wilderness hikes to 12 total participants. The U.S. Forest Service has stipulated that multiple Mazama groups must remain separated along the entire route; thus they cannot even pass each other in wilderness areas. So our planning has become more complicated and many areas where we’ve led larger groups in the past are now impacted by the stricter policy. The TTC is also concerned that the Forest Service is allowing concessionaires to charge a parking fee at certain trail-

For the Mazamas 2011 fiscal year the Trail Tending Subcommittee recorded a total of 261½ volunteer hours of trail and conservation work. Of these, 224½ hours were spent on U.S. Forest Service projects and 37 hours on other lands. The non-USFS hours were split between the Tillamook State Forest and Forest Park. Two of our adopted trails that were covered by work parties included, the Mazama Trail, and the Elk-King Traverse. Trapper Creek was not worked on due to a lack of volunteer leaders. The total hours this year were down from FY2010 when 490 hours were recorded. The decline can be attributed to several factors. First, we lost several leaders during the past year due to time constraints on their already-busy lives. That brought us down to only four qualified leaders to support the entire organization. And second, our chair had to take on the burden of managing family issues. Finding adequate time to focus on trail-tending issues was difficult during this period. In hindsight, the best plan would have been to let someone else step into the role but the odds of finding someone qualified and willing were deemed as very low. For the third year now, Trail Tenders participated in the annual Trail Skills College in Cascade Locks in April. Several members acted as instructors, and three members achieved re-certification as level B crosscut saw operators by the Forest Service. This is becoming increasingly important as the USFS watches over trail-work party-safety measures. For the coming year, the main focus of Trail Tending will be building the ranks of qualified leaders back up, better publicizing of upcoming trips, and writing articles stressing the importance of our work. This should lead to more work parties being offered and higher turnouts. Members: Richard Pope, chair; Ray Sheldon, Jeff Welter. 

Treasurer’s Report

2011 Revenue Activities 11%

by Tom Bard

The Consolidated Budget Report for fiscal year 2010– 2011 includes the actual revenue and expenses, the annual budget and a variance column for comparison. We are pleased to report that the small budgeted increase in assets from operations before depreciation of $3,769 for 2011 was exceeded by $12,715. The Executive Council approved transferring $35,000, which had been accumulated in the Capital Campaign Account from paid pledges, to the Mazamas Foundation. Therefore, after taking into account depreciation of $14,823 and the $35,000 distribution to the foundation, Net Assets were reduced to $623,151 from $656,490. As mentioned last year, historically the foundation provides a substantial distribution each year for the operation of the Mazamas. As a result of the recession, it was cut in fiscal year 2009 to $120,000 from $160,000. In fiscal year 2010, the distribution was reduced further to $95,000. Fortunately, with the recovery of the foundation portfolio, the distribution was increased to $117,500 for this fiscal year, $2,600 more than budgeted. For the second consecutive year, the Mazamas are beneficiaries of substantial unbudgeted estate gifts. This year the estates of Paula Craig, Marion Kelley and Peggy Stone generously gifted more than $160,000 to the Mazamas, which has been transferred to the foundation. These are reflected in the Contributions category in Revenue and Grants Given in Expenses. Charles Barker has completed his second successful year as manager of the lodge for a net fee. Charles has agreed to continue for another year. On balance it was a successful year. The staff and committees are to be commended for their careful control of expenses. The Financial Affairs Committee, chaired by Dan Crisp, has done an excellent job providing the Executive Council and the committees the financial information necessary to successfully manage the budget. We have also included pie-chart graphics to illustrate the revenue and expenses for fiscal 2011. A balanced budget for 2012 has been approved by the council, which projects revenues equaling expenses. The council, committee chairs, committee members and others have done a good job of achieving the ongoing goal of a balanced budget. Monthly financial statements are available in the council minutes posted on the Mazamas website and full financial data are available in the office at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Foundations & Interest Income 16%

Membership Dues 18%

Contributions 25%

Facilities 7% Education Programs 19%

Membership 4%

Membership Dues

142,155

Member Services

31,555

Education Programs

146,806

Facilities

56,742

Activities

82,168

Contributions

194,706

Foundation & Interest Income

123,132

TOTAL REVENUE

777,264

2011 Expenses Fundraising 1%

Facilities 13%

General & Admin. 35%

Activities 6%

Education Programs 9%

Membership Services 10% Grants 26%

Respectfully submitted, Tom Bard, 2010–2011 Treasurer

General & Admin.

262,640

Member Services

71,481

Education Programs

70,893

Activities

48,140

Facilities

97,405

Fund Raising Grants

TOTAL EXPENSES

9,968 200,253

760,780

Fiscal Year 2010â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2011 Consolidated Budget Report Unaudited Report REVENUE: Foundation Distribution Contributions Member Dues Membership Activity Annual Celebration Income Presentation & Conference Income Education Activity Income Activity Income Net Outing Income Library Income Lodge Program Income Merchandise and Book Sales Advertising Income Fundraising Income In Kind Donations Interest Income Miscellaneous Income TOTAL REVENUE: EXPENSES: Personnel Expenses Contract and Professional Services Equipment Lease & Rental Maintenance & Repairs Donations & Grants Given Marketing Expense Fundraising Expense Retreats Membership Services Merchandise Expense Facility Expense Photography & Video Postage Printing & Reproduction Dues & Subscriptions Supplies Telecommunications Travel & Mileage Program Expenses Program Materials Activity Expenses Lodge Expenses Bank & Merchant Fees Property Taxes & Fees Insurance Expenses TOTAL EXPENSES CHANGE IN OPERATIONS CHANGE IN NET ASSETS

Actual as of 9/30/11

% of Budget Realized Goal 100%

Annual Budget

Variance*

117,600 194,706 142,155 2,735 5,590 4,325 181,292 22,526 9,509 253 53,771 6,265 8,086 22,123 797 247 5,285 777,264

115,000 30,500 140,000 1,490 10,000 1,100 184,355 21,940 65 42,600 7,000 9,500 12,500 4,500 5,825 586,375

2,600 164,206 2,155 1,245 (4,410) 3,225 (3,063) 586 9,509 188 11,171 (735) (1,414) 9,623 797 (4,253) 3,285 190,889

133,075 58,469 11,527 11,954 200,253 1,987 12,849 170 27,692 15,228 18,168 4,731 14,988 36,455 3,348 17,991 10,076 24,453 5,221 46 15,088 43,921 13,314 20,275 59,499 760,780

145,284 51,600 14,489 3,800 32,500 2,875 12,652 1,200 31,585 14,600 17,958 3,300 14,072 35,285 3,600 25,349 8,815 17,400 5,900 250 15,030 31,063 12,510 16,935 64,554 582,606

(2,209) 6,869 (2,962) 8,154 67,753 (888) 197 (1,030) (3,893) 628 210 1,431 916 1,170 (252) (7,358) 1,261 7,053 (679) (204) 58 12,858 804 3,340 (5,056) 178,174

92% 113% 80% 315% 616% 69% 102% 14% 88% 104% 101% 143% 107% 103% 93% 71% 114% 141% 88% 19% 100% 141% 106% 120% 92% 131%

16,484 (33,339)

3,769 2,914

12,715

437%

102% 638% 102% 184% 56% 393% 98% 103% 388% 126% 89% 85% 177% 5% 264% 133%

Executive Director’s Annual Report by Lee Davis Your New Staff

and received his EMT-B. Eric was also a part-time snowboard instructor for Vail Associates and has spent the better part of his 39 years playing in the mountains. If you haven’t already, please take some time to stop by the MMC to say hello to Eric and to welcome him to your Mazamas staff.

Of significant note in the last fiscal year is that after seven years of dedication and work with the Mazamas, Peggie Schwarz has left us as Executive Director to work with the Hoyt Arboretum Friends. During her tenure, the Mazamas located, renovated and moved into a wonderful building—your Mazama Mountaineering Center. With Peggie, we also moved through a largely Mazama Lodge successful capital campaign and raised over $1,403,000 to date The Mazama Lodge was financially solvent again this year and are nearly complete in repaying the Mazamas Foundation due to the excellent work of Charles Barker and his caretaker, for their investment in our new home. A farewell celebration for Max Rupert. I should say that literally every week here at the Peggie was held on August 22 here in the Holman Auditorium MMC I encounter someone who voluntarily compliments and I want to specifically thank Monica Lyster, Tom Nelson, Charles and Max on their great service, wonderful food and Marty Hanson, George Cummings and Charles Barker who how consistently welcoming expertly planned and orgathe lodge is for our members. nized the event. Speaking at Thank you Charles and Max the event were Keith Dubanfor doing such a great job! The evich, Gerry Itkin, Dyanne We brought a blogger, lodge committee, led by Rick Foster, Pam Gilmer, Chris a producer, and two Amodeo, was also exceptionMackert, Patrice Cook, Gary ally strong and well-organized Beck, Monica Lyster, Tom cameramen with all of this year. Work parties were Dinsmore, Bruce Yatvin, and their equipment up to the hogsback well-attended and improvemyself. We wish Peggie all the ments to weatherization and best in her new endeavor. and assisted them in filming a climb via the roof were completed on On September 13, the the Pearly Gates on a nearly perfect day. time and on budget. The Executive Council formally committee also managed the promoted me to be your new installation of a snow wall that Executive Director. I am very keeps roof and windblown pleased and excited to take on snow from obstructing our this new challenge at Mazamas wintertime entrance to the lodge. and look forward to working with you all. My first task as ED was to find a replacement for my old position and I’m pleased to Mazama Mountaineering Center report that Eric Mayhew has accepted the position of Member John Godino has recently completed repainting the front Services Manager at Mazamas. Prior to accepting this position entrance stairs at the MMC, which greatly improves everyone’s Eric served as Operations Manager for Savoy Studios in Port- first impression on entering the building—thank you John! land, where he managed a custom art-glass studio with over 50 Interestingly, our SE corner fence was hit by errant vehicles staff members. Eric has excellent computer, website, project twice in 2011 and required repairs. While the insurance compaand budget management skills. He brings solid professional nies paid for the damages, I want to thank Keith Campbell, who experience and a proven track record of success in business and fixed the fence, for continuing to be an important resource to personnel management, which will be invaluable in working the Mazamas in maintaining our Mountaineering Center. Keith with our volunteers to help meet our strategic goals and objec- is our “go-to-guy” when we need help and, just like on climbs, tives at Mazamas. I am confident that Eric will be an excellent we’re always glad to have him around when things go wrong. match for this position and a strong asset to the Mazamas team. At Mazamas, Eric has graduated from BCEP, Ski Mountain- Educational Programs eering and Advanced Rock. He has been an assistant instructor Managing permits and regulations with public lands agenwith BCEP, ICS and AR and also helped teach our Avy 1 Skill cies was an increasing challenge in 2011. New wildernessBuilder class last winter. Eric is an avid climber and moun- boundary changes constricted our use of instructional areas taineer and also enjoys backcountry skiing and snowboarding, on the south side of Mt. Hood and parking became an issue as well as mountain biking and the occasional Gorge hike. for us to manage, both on Mt. Hood and at Horsethief State Prior to moving to Portland, Eric grew up in Knoxville, TN, Park. Our commercial use permits on Mt. Hood now require just outside the Smokey Mountains, before moving to Colo- that we list every individual group of Mazamas that are in Mt. rado where he lived for 10 years managing his own business Hood National Forest for our classes or activities and tell them and volunteering with the Larimer County Search and Rescue when we vary from our predetermined schedule. Our permit Team which serviced Northern Colorado, including RMNP. application changed from being roughly 20 pages of submitted Here, he trained in avalanche, vertical and swift-water rescue information to over 70 pages this year. We are working with

“

Mazama Membership Report

Executive Director’s Report, continued from previous page

MHNF to simplify the process in years ahead and build in more flexibility for our programs.

October 2010–September 2011

OPB Climb

by Lee Davis

This year I assisted Keith Dubanevich and Jill Kellog in coordinating a supported climb of Mt. Hood with a film crew from OPB’s Oregon Field Guide. We brought a blogger, a producer, and two cameramen with all of their equipment up to the hogsback and assisted them in filming a climb via the Pearly Gates on a nearly perfect day. It was a memorable experience for all of us and I’d especially like to thank Keith and Jill for helping to coordinate OPB’s training day; Jerry Heilman for helping me set fixed lines up to and through the Pearly Gates; and also Jennifer Van Houten, Tian Lan and Pam Gilmer for helping us manage the team and carry an extraordinary payload up to the hogsback and back to Timberline.

Total membership as of October 1, 2010 . . . . . . . . . 3,128 Total membership as of October 1, 2011 . . . . . . . . . 3,143 Members Added New members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Members reinstated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Total members added . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Members Lost Resigned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Dropped . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Deceased . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Total members lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351

Round the Mountain

Sojo Hendrix and Jean Cavanaugh did an exemplary job of running RTM this year. In addition to the normal but significant workload of coordinating RTM, Jean and Sojo had to work around the Dollar Lake fire on the north side of Mt. Hood and re-route over half of the planned hikes. Both Jean and Sojo were in constant communication with the participants and the forest service for several days before RTM started and worked out a plan to keep everyone hiking for three strenuous days. While the groups only hiked halfway around the mountain, reports are that everyone had a great weekend and that service at the lodge was excellent, as we’ve come to expect from Charles, Max and Phil. Financially, RTM generated over $8,700 in revenue for the lodge and was able to bolster the maintenance budget by roughly $3,000. Please thank Jean, Sojo and everyone at the lodge when you see them for helping make RTM 2011 a great success.

Net gain for the year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Status of Membership Honorary members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 25-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 896 50-year (or more) members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Spouse members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Child members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Oregon members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,626 Washington members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 All other locations members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

The Strategic Plan

Finally, co-chairs Dennis Lee and Ryan McGibbon, council liaison Paul Steger, and the Strategic Plan Task Force should be thanked immensely for their work over the last two years in helping us survey the membership and develop a new Strategic Plan that will serve as our roadmap for progress for the next three to five years. Executive Council and your staff will be using the new plan to help us set goals and measure our success in the years ahead. 

Mazama climb leaders Keith Dubanevich & Jill Kellogg being filmed by OPB/Oregon Field Guide at the hogsback on Mt. Hood Photo: Tian Lan

The Mazamas Foundation In addition, Treasurer Cheryl Harris worked extensively with our CPA firm to upgrade our accounting software system in order to improve the tracking of investment and donation activity. Lastly, Cheryl and I worked with the Mazamas and their CPA to formally memorialize the treatment of temporarilyand permanently-restricted assets and donation/contribution activity between our two organizations. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next for us? Over the next few years, we have plans to embark on an initiative to promote the ease by which members can leave a legacy gift to the Mazamas Foundation in their will. This will help ensure that the endowment continues to grow and sustain the ability to provide a substantial contribution back to the Mazamas to further our collective missions. I specifically want to thank Richard Stellner, Mark Shafer, Bob Lockerby, Monica Lyster, and Marty Scott for their years of service and wish them well as they move on to their next Mazama role. Mazama Foundation Board: Jennifer Van Houten, President; Bob Lockerby, Secretary; Jon Jurevic, Interim Secretary; Marty Scott, Treasurer; Monica Lyster, Mark Shafer, Richard Stellner.

by Jennifer Van Houten

The Mazamas Foundation is tasked with managing a sizable endowment primarily funded by the contributions of donors over the years. In addition to the diversified portfolio that totaled $2,092,718 as of September 29, 2011, the foundation is also the owner of the Mazama Mountaineering Center. The total investment portfolio is up slightly from the fiscal year-end balance of $2,059,973 even after consideration of our $115,000 distribution made to the Mazamas, but remains volatile given current financial market conditions. This year, and as part of what will likely become an every three to five year activity, the foundation engaged a wellknown and highly-respected investment advisory firm to assist us in evaluating our asset allocation model. Based on our longterm investment horizon and stated risk tolerance, the firm made recommendations to our board. Given the collective investment management backgrounds of board members Jon Jurevic, Rick Schmidt and Mark Shafer, an informal investment subcommittee was formed to further review the recommendations, after which the board adopted a revised investment policy further diversifying the asset allocation targets, with the goal to lessen some of the noted volatility.

Approaching the Khumbu Glacier, just past Periche, during the 2011 Khumbu Trek and Imja Tse Climb, en route to Everest Base Camp. Photo: Sue Dimin

Ken Searl/Marty Guenther Jeffrey Welter/Tian Lan Ken Searl/Marty Guenther Vaqas Malik/Tim Scott Richard Bronder/Amy Mendenhall Richard Waugh/Sue Giordano Bob Breivogel/John Major Ken Searl/Pam Gilmer Bob Breivogel/Layne Russell Tian Lan/John Meckel Rick Posekany/Joe Powell Bruce Yatvin/Doug Brumfield Jeffrey Welter/Craig Hanneman Doug Wilson/Shayna Rehberg Jeff Litwak/Jacek Wiktorowicz Jon Major/Mark Meyer Ken Searl/John Egan Robert Joy/Jerry Stelmack Richard Waugh/Nick Wagner Marty Scott/Mike DeLaune Bruce Yatvin/Greg Willmarth Lee Davis/Gary Bishop Daniel Bailey/Chelsea Heveran Tian Lan/George Cummings George Cummings/Don Lagrone Whit Fellers/Vaqas Malik Ken Searl/Logan Searl Mike Holman/Carol Bryan Glenn Widener/Adam Jensen Bill McLoughlin/Jean Cavanaugh Lori Freeman/Lily Lee Linda E. Mark/Shayna Rehberg Linda E. Mark/Shayna Rehberg John Meckel/Steve Heikkila James Jula/Leanne Weiss Ken Searl/Logan Searl Doug Couch/Dave Wenz Eric Hoem/Paul Steger Paul Steger/Brian Wetzel Dan Schuster/Michael Hortsch Greg Scott/Ray Belt Glenn Widener/Al Papesh Steven Heikkila/Sarah Bradham Daniel Bailey/Travis Schweitzer Vaqas Malik/Tom Elmer Darrell Weston/Josh Lockerby

Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute Mt. Hood, Old Chute North Sister, South Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Eagle & Chutla, Eagle Trail Middle Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Old Chute Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle, Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Dragontail Peak, East Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Hood, Sunshine Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Mt. St. Helens, Worm Flows Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Dragontail Peak, East Ridge The Castle, South Side Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake The Brothers, South Couloir Mt. Washington (OR), North Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Castle, Pinnacle, Standard Traverse Chimney Rock, East Face Direct Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch Mt.Washington (Olympics), Standard North Sister, NW Ridge

1/2 1/23 1/30 5/5 5/6 5/6 5/10 5/14 5/20 5/21 5/21 5/24 5/29 6/4 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/6 6/6 6/9 6/11 6/11 6/11 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/19 6/20 6/20 6/21 6/23 6/24 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/25

8/8 8/0 7/7 11/0 9/0 12/12 9/9 7/7 12/12 7/0 7/7 8/8 5/0 6/1 5/5 9/8 10/9 7/7 7/7 7/7 8/6 12/12 7/0 10/10 7/7 6/6 8/0 10/10 7/7 12/0 12/12 7/7 7/7 7/7 8/8 7/7 7/7 7/7 9/8 10/10 11/11 4/0 8/6 9/9 12/12 12/0

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Date Mountain, Route 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/26 6/27 6/27 7/2 7/2 7/2 7/3 7/3 7/3 7/4 7/4 7/4 7/5 7/6 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/11 7/11 7/11 7/14 7/15 7/16 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24

Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Buckner, SW Route Mt. Hood, Wyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;east Mt. Jefferson,Jeff Park Glacier Pinnacle Peak, Standard Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Mt. Hood, Pearly Gates Mt. Hood, South Side Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier South Sister, Green Lakes Broken Top, North Ridge Martin Peak, West Ridge Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Colchuck Peak, Colchuck Glacier Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. St. Helens, Swift Creek Mt. Hilton, SE Couloir Mt. Shasta, West Face Gully Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Middle Sister, SE Ridge Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir North Sister, South Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Clark Mountain, SE Route Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier Mt. Hood, Old Chute Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier South Sister, Prouty Glacier The Tooth, South Face Mt. Adams, South Side El Dorado Peak, East Ridge Ingalls Peak (North), South Ridge Mt. Baker, Easton Glacier Mt. Daniel, Hyas Glacier North Sister, South Ridge Sacajawea Peak, Thorp Creek South Butte, East Side Gilbert Peak, Klickton Divide

Date Mountain, Route

2011 Official Mazama Climbs Start/Finish

Paul Underwood/Sue Dimin 12/11 Whit Fellers/Jim Ronning 6/6 Kevin Clark/Chris Kruell 9/9 Bill McLoughlin/Lisa Ripps 11/11 Ellen Gradison/Tim Hale 4/4 Matt Carter/Quentin Carter 8/0 Preston Corless/Wim Aarts 4/0 Mike Holman/Suzanne Stainbrook 12/12 Greg Scott/Ray Belt 12/12 Jeffrey Welter/Kirby Young 10/10 Ken Searl/Marty Guenther 7/0 Jeffrey Welter/Doug Merritt 9/6 Terry Brenneman/Adam Jensen 6/6 Ryan Christie/Lynne Pedersen 11/11 Ryan Christie/Chris Valencia 11/11 Richard Waugh/Ron Jenkins 4/4 Bruce Yatvin/Sue Dimin 12/10 Mike Holman/Jennifer Van Houten 8/8 Keith Langenwalter/Shayna Rehberg 11/11 George Cummings/Lisa Ripps 9/9 George Shay/Paul Underwood 8/8 John Meckel/Al Papesh 8/8 Dan Schuster/Andreas Wunderle 7/0 Rick Posekany/Jessica Deans 8/7 Tian Lan/James Jula 8/8 Mary-Margaret Jenkins/Chris Kruell 11/9 Greg Scott/Gary Ballou 8/8 Glenn Widener/John Rettig 10/8 Andrew Bodien/Judith Baker 6/6 Wim Aarts/Pam Gilmer 6/6 Vaqas Malik/Tom Elmer 11/11 Bob Breivogel/Bruce Hope 7/0 George Shay/Jeff Litwak 8/6 Jeffrey Welter/Todd Torres 9/9 Donna Vandall/Keith Knight 8/8 Shirley Welch/Jeff Hawkins 5/4 Darrell Weston/Jeff Litwak 7/0 Matt Carter/Quentin Carter 6/6 Bill McLoughlin/Tom Davidson 9/0 John Blanck/Justin Rotheerham 7/7 Daniel Bailey/Gary Bishop 12/11 Jon Major/Jonathon Myers 6/5 Rick Posekany/Jim Ronning 10/0 Joe Whittington/Lily Lee 8/8 Matt Carter/Quentin Carter 6/6 Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor 9/9

Leader/Assistant

Joe Whittington/Lily Lee 8/8 Whit Fellers/John Meckel 7/7 Jill Kellogg/Gary Ballou 8/8 Tian Lan/Paul Underwood 11/0 George Shay/Doug Couch 6/6 Dan Schuster/Caleb Sattgast 5/5 Gerald Itkin/Richard Bronder 7/7 Tian Lan/Tim Scott 5/5 Jeff Litwak/Nathan Laye 4/4 Bruce Yatvin/Dan Crisp 8/8 Bob Breivogel/Kate Evans 6/3 Steven Heikkila/Bob Murphy 4/4 Richard Waugh/Jason Lee 8/8 Jeff Litwak/Nathan Laye 4/0 George Shay/Paul Steger 8/8 Vaqas Malik/Jeff Welter 9/0 Hugh Brown/Marty Guenther 7/7 Glenn Widener/Dan Rudolph 11/10 Daniel Bailey/Caleb Sattgast 7/6 James Jula/Doug Wilson 4/4 Bob Breivogel/Jennifer Van Houten 9/8 Matt Carter/Jeff Hawkins 6/6 Doug Wilson/James Jula 4/4 Andrew Bodien/Adam Jensen 6/6 James Jula/Doug Wilson 4/4 David Zeps/Mark Duin 8/8 Shirley Welch/Marty Scott 8/8 Gerald Itkin/Lee Stevenson 5/5 Wim Aarts/Kirk Bowyer 6/0 Bob Breivogel/Lisa Ripps 7/6 Rick Posekany/Karin Mullendorff 9/9 George Cummings/Rayce Boucher 4/4 Paul Steger/Brian Wetzel 5/4 Doug Couch/Rayce Boucher 5/5 Steven Heikkila/Jae Ellers 8/8 Bruce Yatvin/Matt Bunza 4/4 Daniel Bailey/Chelsea Heveran 11/11 Doug Couch/Rayce Boucher 5/0 James Jula/Leanne Weiss 7/7 Tian Lan/Jill Kellogg 8/8 Tom Elmer/Karl Helser 4/0 Tom Elmer/Karl Helser 4/0 John Meckel/Jeff Hawkins 5/5 David Zeps/Nicole Gaines 8/8 Joe Whittington/Mark Salter 8/8 Matt Carter/David Stein 3/3 David Zeps/Michael Hortsch 6/6

Hurwal Divide, Thorp Creek Icy Peak, Ruth Glacier Ingalls Peak (North), South Ridge Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Eldorado, Eldorado Glacier/East Ridge Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Summit Chief, SE Ridge The Tooth, South Side Hidden Lake Peak, North Ridge South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Old Snowy & Ives, Snowgrass Flat El Dorado Peak, East Ridge Mount Olympus, Blue Glacier Mt. Jefferson,East Face Direct Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Mt. Stone, West Ridge North Sister, South Ridge South Early Winter Spire, South Arete Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier The Tooth, South Face Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Jefferson,Whitewater Glacier Sherpa Peak, South Side Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge The Tooth, South Face Seven-Fingered Jack, SW Slope Ingalls, North & South Peaks Castle Peak, Traverse Mt. Shuksan, Sulphide Glacier Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir Mt. Stuart, Ulrich Couloir Mt. Washington (OR), North Ridge Sahale Peak, Sahale Arm Mt. Stuart, West Ridge Ingalls Peak (North), South Ridge Mt. Stuart, North Ridge Mt. Washington (OR), North Ridge Kiger Mann (Steens), South Ridge Diamond Peak, North Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge

7/24 7/24 7/24 7/24 7/29 7/29 7/29 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/31 7/31 8/2 8/5 8/5 8/6 8/6 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/8 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/13 8/13 8/13 8/17 8/18 8/19 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/21 8/22 8/22 8/26 8/27 8/27

Start/Finish

Leader/Assistant

Date Mountain, Route

2011 Official Mazama Climbs 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/28 8/30 9/2 9/2 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/5 9/8 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/10 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/11 9/12 9/17 9/17 9/18 9/24 9/24 9/25 9/28 9/30 10/1 10/2 10/2 10/14 10/16 10/22

Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats South Sister, Devils Lake Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Black Peak, South Ridge Chutla-Eagle, Eagle Peak Trail Mt. Elbert, NE Ridge Mt. Yoran, SE Col Plummer Peak, Standard Liberty Bell, Beckey Route Longs Peak, Keyhole Route Tatoosh Traverse, Stevens Peak-Eagle Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Bailey, Standard Mt. St Helens, Monitor Ridge North Sister, SE Ridge S. Early Winters Spire, South Arete Tomyhoi Peak, Standard West McMillan Spire, Terror Glacier South Sister, South Side Mt. St Helens, Monitor Ridge Castle, Pinnacle, Plummer, Standard Elkhorn Peak, SW Face Mt. Pugh, NW Ridge South Sister, Devils Lake Broken Top, NW Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir North Sister, SE Ridge Needle Point, Cached Lake Constance, Fingertip Traverse Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge South Sister, Devils Lake Mt. Daniel, SE Ridge Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake Plummer Peak, Reflection Lakes Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge Lemei-Bird-Sawtooth, Sawtooth Traverse Mt. Bailey, SE Ridge Three-Fingered Jack, South Ridge Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge South Sister, Devils Lake

Date Mountain, Route

Start/Finish

Lori Freeman/Eric Hall 9/9 Gary Beck/Rick Gettmann 12/12 Jill Kellogg/Laura Greenwalt 6/6 Richard Bronder/Gary Ballou 11/10 Donna Vandall/Lynne Pedersen 7/7 Richard Bronder/Gary Ballou 11/8 Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson 19/19 Matt Carter/Eric Smith 3/3 Ray Sheldon/Gary Beyl 5/5 Thomas Miller/Preston Corless 6/5 Bob Breivogel/Tom Davidson 16/16 Daniel Bailey/Amy Mendenhall 7/0 Paul Underwood/Margaret McCarthy 7/6 Eileen Kiely/Mary Kleeman 7/7 Eileen Kiely/Mary Kleeman 7/7 Bruce Yatvin/Doug Brumfield 5/5 John Meckel/Al Papesh 6/6 Thomas Miller/Preston Corless 5/5 Robert Joy/Whit Fellers 8/8 Linda E. Mark/Bruce Wyse 5/5 Paul Underwood/Margaret McCarthy 8/8 Lisa Ripps/Jay Stagnone 6/6 Doug Wilson/Russel Turner 6/6 Joe Whittington/Lily Lee 6/6 Richard Waugh/Richard Stellner 6/6 Lori Freeman/David Noyes 8/8 Bruce Yatvin/Trung Le 9/9 Richard Bronder/Amy Mendenhall 12/11 Bill McLoughlin/Gary Bishop 11/10 John Godino/Linda Mark 8/8 Joe Whittington/Lily Lee 8/8 Glenn Widener/Suzi Rubino 4/0 Ryan Christie/Christopher Shull 8/8 Bruce Yatvin/Freda Sherburne 11/10 Jay Chambers/Tom Davidson 6/6 Bob Breivogel/John Vissell 11/11 Bob Breivogel/John Vissel 9/9 David Zeps/Rayce Boucher 7/7 Paul Underwood/Gary Bishop 9/9 Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor 5/3 Andrew Bodien/Karl Langenwalter 6/0 Bob Breivogel/Pam Rigor 4/3 George Shay/Steve Warner 9/9 Lisa Ripps/George Cummings 8/8 Ken Searl/Paul Montgomery 6/6

Leader/Assistant

Goodwin, Billie Van Rossen, Daniel Zeps, David Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lee, Dean Breunsbach, Rex Justice, Greg Lawson, Terry Craycraft, Rick Getgen, Richard Koch, Susan Welter, Jeff Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Egan, John Guyot, Tom Breunsbach, Rex McGilvra, John Meyer, Kent Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Roberts, Jane Craycraft, Rick Justice, Greg Steger, Paul Breunsbach, Rex Getgen, Richard Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Braem, David

Lacamas Lake Upper Twin Lake (SS) Dog Mountain Multnomah Falls Greatest Hits Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nick Eaton-Gorton Creek Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Tilly Jane (SS) 4-T Trail/Council Crest Alameda Ridge Stairs Wahkeena-Devils Rest Multnomah-Wahkeena Creeks Mount Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cedar Mountain-PCT Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wind Mountain Silver Star Mountain Banks-Vernonia Linear Trail Table Mountain Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wahkeena-Angels Rest Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble SW Portland Street Ramble Waterfront Loop Angels Rest Angels Rest-Wahkeena-Devils Rest Dry Creek Falls-Pinnacles Slide Creek Falls Casey Creek-Nick Eaton Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

1/1 1/1 1/1 1/2 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/5 1/6 1/6 1/6 1/6 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/11 1/12 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/13 1/15 1/15 1/15 1/16 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/18 1/19 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/20 1/22 1/22 1/22 1/23 1/23 1/23 1/25 1/25 1/25 1/25 1/25 1/27

7 5.5 7 13 8 6 5 6 6 8 8 5 6 6 8.5 3 4 6 8.5 5.3 12 8 6 6 6 5 7 8 6 5 6 6 3.5 10 9 10.5 8 6 5 6 7 7.4 8 6 5 6 15 7 10 4.6 10.5 8.4 10.8 12 8 6 5 6 6 8

8 17 7 5 12 12 12 12 12 6 12 11 11 12 7 10 9 8 7 7 12 5 5 5 5 5 6 14 13 13 13 14 5 5 8 8 11 10 11 11 10 7 11 11 11 11 11 3 13 7 7 4 5 7 16 15 15 16 16 10

Miles Att

Leader

Date Trip 1/27 1/27 1/27 1/27 1/27 1/29 1/29 1/29 1/30 1/30 2/1 2/1 2/1 2/1 2/1 2/2 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/3 2/5 2/6 2/6 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/8 2/9 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/10 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/12 2/13 2/13 2/13 2/15 2/15 2/15 2/15 2/16 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/17 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/19 2/20 2/20

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Neahkahnie Mountain Mary S Young Park Larch Mountain Cook Hill-Augspurger Mountain Kenton-Columbia Slough Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Silver Star Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wygant Peak Coyote Wall Loop Nesmith Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cape Lookout Silver Star Mountain Captain Clark Park Twin Lakes (SS) Triple Falls Table Mountain Trillium Lake (SS) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Prindle Mountain & Cruzatt Rim Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble SW Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Neahkahnie Mountain Catherine Creek Trillium Lake Moonlight (SS) Benson Plateau Forest Park Linnton (TT)

Date Trip 6 5 6 6 6 8.6 3 13.8 13 5 8 6 5 7 6 10 8 6 5 4 6 8.5 8.2 10 8 6 5 7 6 7.5 8 6 5 5.5 7 7 10 10 6.2 7 4.3 10 5 8 6 5 7 8 8 6 5 6 7 6 7.2 5 5.2 15 6.1 1

10 10 10 10 10 8 12 5 10 9 14 14 14 14 14 4 11 11 11 11 11 10 8 5 14 13 13 13 13 9 11 10 10 10 10 10 6 3 8 5 7 13 3 12 11 11 12 5 9 9 9 6 10 9 4 10 16 5 5 3

Miles Att

Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lee, Dean Lincoln, Wayne Bishop, Gary Brickey, Sue Smith, Sheri Alice Hiland, Kurt Steger, Paul Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Van Rossen, Daniel McGilvra, John Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Craycraft, Rick Breunsbach, Rex Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Van Rossen, Daniel Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Egan, John Guyot, Tom Tipton, Andrew Bishop, Gary McGilvra, John Meyer, Kent Sherbeck, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Davidson, Tom Zeps, David Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Sherbeck, Terry Davidson, Tom Amodeo, Wanda Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Roberts, Jane Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Craycraft, Rick Goodwin, Billie Nelson, David Sattgast, Caleb Brickey, Sue Pope, Richard

Leader 2/20 2/21 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/22 2/24 2/24 2/24 2/26 2/26 2/26 2/27 2/27 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/1 3/2 3/3 3/3 3/3 3/3 3/3 3/5 3/5 3/5 3/6 3/6 3/6 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/9 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/12 3/12 3/12 3/13 3/13 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/15 3/16 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/17

Rock of Ages-Nesmith Point Burnt Bridge Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Moulton Falls Ghost Ridge-Palmateer Point (SS) Wildwood Trail Mount Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Multnomah-Wahkeena Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Lacamas Lake Larch Mountain Kings Mountain Greenleaf Falls Hagg Lake Rudolph Spur Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Munra Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Horsetail-Wahkeena Traverse Tryon Creek Franklin Ridge Elevator Shaft Catherine Creek-East Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Waespe Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble SW Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain LWH=Lodge Week Hike ATC=All Trails Challenge

Official Mazama Trail Trips 10 9.2 8 6 5 4 7 6 8 6 6 7 5 6 6.7 12 8 6 5 6 7 4.9 8 6 5 6 7 7 9.6 5.5 9 9 16 8 6 5 7 6 6 9.6 6 5 7 8 12.2 5 11 9 7 8 6 5 5 8 8 6 5 7 6 7

6 4 10 10 10 9 10 10 4 5 5 7 6 10 7 6 11 11 11 11 10 4 8 8 8 8 8 7 8 6 14 7 7 12 11 11 11 11 11 7 11 11 11 11 5 8 6 7 5 8 8 8 7 3 10 9 10 10 9 4

Miles Att

Welter, Jeff Meyer, Kent Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Hanson, Marty Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Braem, David Cone, Terry Lincoln, Wayne Keefer, Neal Meyer, Kent Sherbeck, Terry Keefer, Virginia Zeps, David Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Lincoln, Wayne Tipton, Andrew Evans, Kate Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Brickey, Sue Craycraft, Rick Ganesh, Brinda Breunsbach, Rex Steger, Paul Welter, Jeff Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Davidson, Tom Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Tipton, Andrew Craycraft, Rick Goodwin, Billie Lincoln, Wayne Davidson, Tom Getgen, Richard Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Egan, John Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Roberts, Jane

Leader

Bishop, Gary Davidson, Tom Steger, Paul Breunsbach, Rex Hiland, Kurt Justice, Greg Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom McCobb, Jim Searl, Ken Davidson, Tom Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne McCobb, Jim Smith, Robert Young, Kirby Davidson, Tom Davidson, Tom Evans, Kate Getgen, Richard Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Davidson, Tom Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg McCobb, Jim Cook, Patrice Breunsbach, Rex Eskridge, Rick Meyer, Kent Getgen, Richard Justice, Greg Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Fowler, Mark Steger, Paul Brown, Amy Cone, Terry Eckel, Carolyn Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Koch, Susan Lawson, Terry

3/19 3/19 3/19 3/20 3/20 3/20 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/22 3/23 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/26 3/27 3/27 3/27 3/29 3/29 3/29 3/29 3/29 3/30 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 4/1 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/3 4/3 4/3 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/6 4/6 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/9 4/10 4/10

7.4 1 11.5 12.4 8 6.4 8 7 6 5 7 3 5.5 8.1 6 7 6 3 5 8.3 7 9.5 8.4 7 8 6 5 7 6 9 8 6 5 7 6 6 4 7 10 7.2 7 7 7.5 13 8 6 5 7 6 9.8 8.5 7 6 5 6 6 6 10.8 7.2 4.2

4 11 3 11 5 7 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 19 6 7 7 7 6 6 34 3 4 11 9 10 9 10 9 10 13 12 12 12 12 8 12 6 7 7 5 8 15 14 14 13 13 13 14 3 3 9 10 10 10 10 6 12 7 6

Miles Att 4/10 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/12 4/13 4/14 4/14 4/14 4/14 4/16 4/16 4/16 4/17 4/17 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/19 4/20 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/21 4/23 4/23 4/23 4/24 4/24 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/26 4/27 4/28 4/28 4/28 4/28 4/28 4/30 4/30 4/30 5/1 5/1 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/3 5/4 5/4 5/5

Ruckel Ridge to Eagle-Benson Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Gillette Lake Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Wahclella Falls Hamilton Mountain Cook-Augspurger Traverse Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Munra Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble SW Portland Street Ramble University Falls Table Mountain Lewis River Falls Memaloose Hills Hardy Ridge-Hamilton Mtn. Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Rudolph Spur-Ruckel Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Pup Creek Falls Table Mountain Salmon River Trail Rowena Plateau-Tom McCall Pt. Russ Jolley Trail to Oneonta Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Loop Silver Star Mountain Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip Welter, Jeff Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Amodeo, Wanda Cone, Terry Hanson, Marty Sherbeck, Terry Evans, Kate Goodwin, Billie Marlin, Kelly Hiland, Kurt Lawson, Terry Amodeo, Rick Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Tipton, Andrew Davidson, Tom Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Roberts, Jane Breunsbach, Rex Evans, Kate Meyer, Kent Getgen, Richard Smith, Sheri Alice Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Tipton, Andrew Davidson, Tom Brown, Amy Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex Evans, Kate Meyer, Kent Getgen, Richard Hiland, Kurt Amodeo, Wanda Breivogel, Bob Cone, Terry Egan, John Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Breunsbach, Rex McGilvra, John Brown, Amy

Leader 15 7 6 6 5 6 8 8 6 4.5 7 7.5 5 8 13 5.4 7 7 7 4.5 6 8 5.5 8 6 7 5 6 6 6 8.4 10 5.4 7 13 6 7 5 6 8 11 8 6 7 5 6 8.5 10 7.2 8 11 8 8.5 6 5.5 7 5 5.7 10 8

4 15 14 15 15 15 4 9 9 9 9 8 3 6 8 9 9 10 10 10 10 9 8 12 11 12 12 11 7 5 15 9 7 4 7 15 15 15 15 14 10 8 9 9 9 3 12 8 8 20 5 13 13 13 12 13 13 11 5 12

Miles Att

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain LWH=Lodge Week Hike ATC=All Trails Challenge

Munra Point Mazama Tree Planting Hardy Ridge Loop Salmon River Trail Horsetail Ridge Wahkeena-Angels Rest Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Coyote Wall-Labyrinth Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Cape Horm (Cathy Oswald Memorial) Ruckel Ridge-Ruckel Creek Devils Rest via Angels Rest Lyle Cherry Orchard Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Archer Mountain-Arrow Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Dog Mountain Gales Creek-Storey Burn Dog Mountain Silver Creek Falls Catherine Creek-West Hamilton Mountain Coyote Wall-Catherine Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Nesmith Point Gorton Creek-Nick Eaton Ridge Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Slide Creek Falls Cape Horn (Cathy Oswald Memorial) Triple Falls

Leader

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/5 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/7 5/8 5/8 5/10 5/10 5/10 5/10 5/10 5/11 5/11 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/12 5/14 5/14 5/15 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/17 5/18 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/19 5/20 5/21 5/21 5/21 5/22 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/24 5/25 5/25 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/26 5/28

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Saddle Mountain ATC: Firelanes (Forest Park) Dalles Mountain Ranch Horsetail to Wahkeena Traverse Hamilton Mountain Herman Creek Pinnacles Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elowah, Upper McCord & Wahclella Cook Hill Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Indian Point via Gorton Creek Silver Star Mountain Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Franklin Ridge Portland Street Ramble MMC Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wind Mtn & Dog Mtn Mt. Defiance Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge Opal Creek Wahkeena-Devils Rest Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Bunker Hill Dog Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Wauna Point

Date Trip 7 4.5 6 6 6 7.2 6.0 7 12 7.5 5 7 6 7 5 6 6 8 8 6 7 5 6 6 8.9 10 7.2 7 8.5 7 5 6 7 6 10.1 6 6 6.5 7 5.7 8 10 11.9 4 7.0 7.4 8 6 7 9 5 6 7.2 8 5.5 7 6 6 5 10.4

12 13 13 6 12 6 5 11 7 3 4 18 18 18 18 18 8 9 13 12 12 13 13 4 11 4 5 12 12 12 12 13 13 12 9 14 4 14 14 14 14 7 3 9 5 3 17 17 17 16 16 4 4 7 7 7 7 4 7 4

Miles Att

Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Brickey, Sue Eskridge, Rick Goering, Nancy Bourdin, Sherry Degener, Charlene Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Hiland, Kurt Braem, David Cone, Terry Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Breunsbach, Rex McGilvra, John Koch, Susan Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Egan, John Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Cone, Terry Creager, John Lincoln, Wayne Pope, Rick Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Sattgast, Caleb Evans, Kate Goodwin, Billie Meyer, Kent Evans, Kate Braem, David Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Davidson, Tom Brown, Amy Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Smith, Robert Bishop, Gary

Leader

6 6.8 12.4 13.8 8 7 8.9 8 5.5 5.5 7 5 12.6 5.4 7 6 6 5 8 10 4.2 15 5.4 10 9 7.5 6 7 5 6 8.5 11 8 8.5 7 6 6 6 5.5 9.4 7.2 13.1 9.5 4 14 8 6 7 6 7 5 9.1 7.5 6 6 6 7 5 8 9.1

3 4 7 11 4 8 5 13 12 12 13 13 6 6 10 10 10 9 10 10 5 12 3 8 7 15 15 15 15 15 5 7 10 10 10 10 8 11 10 8 10 8 18 3 6 14 14 14 14 13 13 8 6 14 14 8 14 14 13 11

Miles Att

Catherine Creek Justice, Greg ATC: Stone House (Forest Park) Lawson, Terry Swale Canyon Tipton, Andrew Larch Mountain Breunsbach, Rex Upper & Lower Falls Creek Falls Meyer, Kent Round & Lacamas Lakes Selby, Jim Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trask, Jennifer Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Rock of Ages-Nesmith Point Davidson, Tom Kings Mountain Smith, Sheri Alice Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Pope, Rick Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew ATC: Maple Trail (Forest Park) Breunsbach, Rex Angels Rest Evans, Kate Silver Star Mountain McGilvra, John ATC: Hike 27 (Forest Park) Brickey, Sue Table Mountain Evans, Kate Tillamook Head Getgen, Richard Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Wygant Peak Breunsbach, Rex Elk-Kings Traverse Davidson, Tom Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Breivogel, Bob Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Pope, Rick Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Estacada-Eagle Creek Trail Breunsbach, Rex Ramona Falls Lawson, Terry North Lake Steger, Paul Cruzatt Rim and Pancakes Ledge Breunsbach, Rex Wauna Viewpoint Evans, Kate Auggie-Doggie Smith, Sheri Alice Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Nesmith Ridge-Nesmith Point Davidson, Tom Hamilton Mountain Evans, Kate Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Pope, Rick Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew Silver Star Mountain-Starway Trail Bishop, Gary

Leader 6/18 6/18 6/18 6/19 6/19 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/21 6/22 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/23 6/25 6/25 6/25 6/26 6/26 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/28 6/29 6/30 6/30 6/30 6/30 6/30 6/30 7/1 7/2 7/2 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/5 7/6 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/7 7/8 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/9 7/10 7/10 7/10 7/10

Tarbell Trail to Hidden Falls Strawberry Fields (N. Bonneville) Devils Rest Lewis River Trail Three Corner Rock–Table Mtn. Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Aldrich Butte-Cedar–Table Mtn. Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Larch Mountain Multnomah–Angels Rest Big Huckleberry Mountain Timothy Lake Tom-Dick Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Elk-Kings Traverse Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Council Crest (½ 4T) Wildcat Mountain Moulton Falls & Lucia Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Burnt Lake-East Zig Zag Mtn. Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hunchback Mountain Little Badger Creek Siouxon Peak Gumjuac Trail to Flag Point Grassy Knoll Gumjuac Trail to Flag Point Observation Peak Little Badger Creek Horseshoe Ridge

Date Trip 10 5 9 10 20 8.5 8 6 7 6 6 5 12 6 7 6 6 6 8 13.8 7.7 6 13.1 7.4 7 6 5 8 6 9 7 7 6 5 8 6 5.5 10.1 6 7 6 5 8 6 9.5 6 6 7 5 8 6 9 8.3 16.6 9.1 6.4 9.1 13.3 8.3 10

9 5 5 5 7 15 15 15 15 16 15 15 9 13 14 14 6 14 13 12 8 4 4 10 16 16 16 15 16 6 12 12 8 12 11 12 3 11 11 16 16 16 15 16 11 10 11 10 10 10 10 4 7 7 7 10 7 7 7 10

Miles Att

Breunsbach, Rex Goodwin, Billie Marlin, Kelly Meyer, Kent Welter, Jeff Breivogel, Bob Creager, John Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Pope, Rick Smith, Robert Fowler, Mark Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Breunsbach, Rex Lawson, Terry Meyer, Kent Getgen, Richard Justice, Greg Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Smith, Sheri Alice Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Lawson, Terry Breunsbach, Rex Selby, Jim Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Davidson, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Bourdin, Sherry Amodeo, Rick Goering, Nancy Hendrix, Sojo Meyer, Kent Amodeo, Rick Getgen, Richard Hendrix, Sojo Smith, Sheri Alice

Leader

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain LWH=Lodge Week Hike ATC=All Trails Challenge

5/28 5/28 5/28 5/29 5/29 5/29 5/30 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 5/31 6/1 6/1 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/2 6/4 6/4 6/4 6/5 6/5 6/5 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/7 6/8 6/8 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/9 6/11 6/11 6/11 6/12 6/12 6/12 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/14 6/15 6/15 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/16 6/18

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 7/11 7/12 7/12 7/12 7/12 7/13 7/13 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/14 7/15 7/15 7/16 7/16 7/16 7/17 7/17 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/19 7/20 7/20 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/21 7/22 7/22 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/23 7/24 7/25 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/26 7/27 7/27 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/28 7/30 7/30 7/30 7/30

Bells Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble ATC: Firelanes 3 & 7 Little Baldy-Silver Star Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Tom-Dick Mountain Deliverance Gulch ATC: Forest Park Old Growth Hamilton Mountain Ape Canyon Pup Creek Falls Nesmith Point (Corky’s Corner) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble McNeil Point Little Huckleberry Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Strawberry Lakes Strawberry Lakes Salmon Butte Tanner Creek Kings Mountain Indian Mountain Canyon Mountain Trail Canyon Mountain Trail Tanner Butte (TT) ATC: Big Stump Nick Eaton Ridge-Gorton Creek Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Larch Mountain Crater Lookout Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble ATC: Firelanes 9 & 10 North Lake Laurel Hill Ape Canyon-Plains of Abraham

Date Trip 9 7 6 8 5 14.9 12 7 6 6 5 8 6 7.5 16 8.8 7.5 8 8 6 6 8.5 7 7 6 5 9 5 5 7 6 8 6 8 7 9.8 4.5 5 8.5 8 11 8 6.2 8 7 8.5 7 6 5.5 6.4 10.4 8 7 6 6 6 6.2 13.1 3 10.6

9 17 17 17 17 7 7 12 12 7 13 12 12 4 5 4 3 8 5 4 12 11 11 12 12 12 12 3 15 15 6 15 15 12 12 10 10 9 10 11 10 4 7 4 17 18 18 18 18 9 11 15 15 15 6 15 5 11 3 10

Miles Att

Selby, Jim Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Marks, Brad Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex McGilvra, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Auerbach, Mitch Creager, John Brickey, Sue Evans, Kate Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Evans, Kate Amodeo, Rick Breivogel, Bob Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Davidson, Tom Meyer, Kent Amodeo, Rick Guyot, Tom Linza, Meg Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Remy, Ginger Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Goodwin, Billie Justice, Greg Marlin, Kelly Remy, Ginger Smith, Robert Welter, Jeff Lawson, Terry Lawson, Terry Braem, David Breivogel, Bob Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Smith, Sheri Alice Braem, David Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Smith, Robert Brickey, Sue Goering, Nancy Huber, Flora Koch, Susan

Leader

8 8 26 5 7 6 5 8 8.4 5 7 5 6 6 8 7.5 11 11.9 6.2 17.1 6 7 7 6 5 7 7 6 6 6 8 6 14.5 9 11 7 6.5 10 10 5 7 6 12.6 5.5 8 8.3 6 7 6.5 7 6 2.7 5.5 6 8.1 9 6.4 9 11.8 7

13 5 6 16 17 17 17 16 7 9 10 9 10 10 9 6 11 7 5 4 16 16 17 16 16 4 11 9 11 11 11 10 5 12 5 7 7 3 4 16 17 16 3 17 16 5 3 14 14 14 10 3 13 13 3 11 8 10 4 14

Miles Att

Red Rock Pass to Loowit Trail Meyer, Kent Devils Peak Varma, Ankush Wahtum Lake Welter, Jeff Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew Devils Rest via Angels Rest Evans, Kate Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Rick Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew Hamilton Mountain Evans, Kate Silver Star Mountain McGilvra, John Mount Defiance Evans, Kate Dog Mountain Justice, Greg Yocum Ridge Bourdin, Sherry Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Fellers, Whit Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Bull of the Woods Meyer, Kent Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Pope, Richard Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Salmon River-Devils Peak Loop Bishop, Gary McNeil Point Hiland, Kurt Divide Trail: Lookout Mtn-Flag Pt. Amodeo, Rick Hardy Ridge Breunsbach, Rex ATC: Forest Park City View Lawson, Terry LHW: Little Badger/School Canyon Rea, Ed LHW: Lookout Mountain Auerbach, Mitch Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne LHW: Paradise Park Rea, Ed Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Tipton, Andrew ATC: Forest Park Old Growth Breunsbach, Rex LHW: Heather Canyon Rea, Ed Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg LHW: Mirror Lake Selby, Jim Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel LHW: Gnarl Ridge Rea, Ed Hunchback Mountain Breunsbach, Rex ATC: Heart of the Park Rock, Kibbey McNeil Point Vissell, John East to West Zig Zag Mountain Eskridge, Rick Portland Street Ramble Braem, David

Leader 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/23 8/24 8/24 8/24 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/25 8/26 8/27 8/27 8/27 8/28 8/28 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/30 8/31 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/1 9/2 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/3 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/4 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5 9/5

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Grassy Knoll Munra Point to Nesmith Point Timberline-Barlow Pass Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mazama Trail (TT) Burnt Lake-East Zig Zag Mtn. Mazama Trail (TT) Yocum Ridge Nesmith Point (Corkyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner) Mazama Trail (TT) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Goat Rocks Loop Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek RTM: Timberline-Newton Cr RTM: Newton Cr-Timberline Saddle Mountain RTM: Timberline-Newton Cr RTM: Timberline-Ramona Falls RTM: Lookout Mountain RTM: Timberline-Ramona Falls RTM: Newton Cr-Timberline Triple Falls RTM: Ramona Falls-Timberline RTM: Ramona Falls-Timberline McIntyre Ridge RTM: Hunchback Mountain Larch Mountain RTM: Devils Peak RTM: Hunchback Mountain RTM: Timberline-Newton Cr RTM: Gunsight Butte RTM: Timberline-Newton Cr RTM: Devils Peak RTM: Newton Cr-Timberline RTM: Newton Cr-Timberline RTM: Paradise Park Tom-Dick Mountain RTM: Paradise Park RTM: Twin Lakes RTM: Heather Canyon RTM: Twin Lakes RTM: Paradise Park RTM: Lookout Mountain

Date Trip 6 7 5 8 4.4 16 6 7 6 6 8 6 8 9.5 6 17.3 6.5 4 6 7 7 5 8 13 6 7 7 6 5 14 14 14 5.2 14 14 10 14 14 5 14 14 7 14 13.8 14 14 14 8.0 14 14 14 14 11.5 6.4 11.5 8 14 8 11.5 10

13 13 13 13 3 4 7 10 10 3 9 9 3 9 3 3 4 3 16 16 16 16 15 6 11 11 11 12 12 3 6 6 5 6 6 7 6 6 9 6 6 11 5 5 6 5 6 7 6 6 6 6 6 5 6 6 8 6 10 6

Miles Att

Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Tipton, Andrew Breunsbach, Rex Davidson, Tom Goodwin, Billie Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Sherbeck, Terry Tipton, Andrew Van Rossen, Daniel Rea, Ed Keefer, Virginia Rea, Ed Smith, Sheri Alice Amodeo, Rick Pope, Rick Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Tipton, Andrew Sattgast, Caleb Egan, John Fellers, Whit Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Creager, John Hendrix, Sojo Koch, Susan Linza, Meg Peltz, Nicole Rea, Ed Roberts, Jane Sattgast, Caleb Selby, Jim Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Sheri Alice Breunsbach, Rex Creager, John Evans, Kate Hendrix, Sojo Linza, Meg Peltz, Nicole Rea, Ed Roberts, Jane Sattgast, Caleb Sherbeck, Terry Smith, Sheri Alice Creager, John Evans, Kate Linza, Meg Peltz, Nicole Rea, Ed Roberts, Jane Sattgast, Caleb Sherbeck, Terry

Leader

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain LWH=Lodge Week Hike ATC=All Trails Challenge

7/31 7/31 7/31 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/2 8/3 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/4 8/6 8/6 8/7 8/7 8/8 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/9 8/10 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/11 8/13 8/13 8/14 8/14 8/14 8/15 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/16 8/17 8/17 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/18 8/19 8/20 8/20 8/20 8/21 8/23

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 9/5 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/6 9/7 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/8 9/9 9/10 9/10 9/11 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/13 9/14 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/15 9/17 9/17 9/18 9/20 9/20 9/20 9/20 9/20 9/21 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/22 9/24 9/24 9/25 9/25 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/27 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/29 9/29

RTM: Lookout Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Paradise Park Mt Rainier (BP) (Day 1) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt Rainier (BP) (Day 2) Mt Rainier (BP) (Day 3) Indian Heaven (Wood Lake) Mt Rainier (BP) (Day 4) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Red Mountain Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Chinidere & Tomlike Mountains Boulder Ridge Mt. Defiance Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble ATC: Big Stump Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Saddle Mountain Indian Heaven Table Rock-Rooster Rock Greenleaf Overlook Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble

Date Trip Smith, Sheri Alice Brown, Amy Egan, John Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Van Rossen, Daniel Davidson, Tom Davidson, Tom Egan, John Fellers, Whit Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Van Rossen, Daniel Davidson, Tom Davidson, Tom Meyer, Kent Davidson, Tom Brown, Amy Egan, John Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Meyer, Kent Brown, Amy Egan, John Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Sherbeck, Terry Bishop, Gary Breunsbach, Rex Evans, Kate Amodeo, Wanda Egan, John Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Brickey, Sue Egan, John Fellers, Whit Hanson, Marty Linza, Meg Sherbeck, Terry Van Rossen, Daniel Justice, Greg Lincoln, Wayne Breunsbach, Rex Lawson, Terry Fellers, Whit Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Trask, Jennifer Van Rossen, Daniel Amodeo, Wanda Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Linza, Meg Sherbeck, Terry

Leader 10 7.5 6.5 4 6 6 6 10.1 9.4 6 7 4 6 6 6 9.4 9.4 9.5 9.4 7.5 5 4 6 7 8 4.7 5.5 4 6 6 7 8.3 10.6 11.9 8 6.5 4 6 6 8.5 6 8 4 6 7 6 7.2 8 10 7.5 9 4 6 8 6 7.5 4 6 6 7

5 12 12 13 13 13 13 6 4 11 10 11 11 3 11 4 4 4 4 14 14 15 15 14 7 9 10 9 10 7 10 4 12 3 15 15 15 15 15 4 12 11 12 4 12 11 5 8 5 6 13 13 13 13 13 11 11 11 7 11

Miles Att

6 7.4 5.5 7.2 14.6 8 7 2.5 6 7.5 6 7 5 9.1 8 8 9 8 6.5 6 4 6 6 7 8 7 6 4 6 7 6 6 8.8 10 8.5 11 12 7 4.5 6 6 6.5 8.4 7 6 4 6.5 6.5 11.5 6.2 7.5 11 8 7 6 4.5 6 6.5 7 5

10 5 13 5 6 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 4 7 7 7 8 8 8 8 9 8 12 7 8 8 8 6 8 7 6 11 7 7 9 8 13 13 13 12 12 10 9 9 9 8 6 5 6 9 5 10 11 10 10 11 10 9 3

Miles Att

Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Devils Rest via Wahkeena Evans, Kate Multnomah Creek Justice, Greg Upper Salmon River Trail Lawson, Terry Observation Peak Smith, Sheri Alice Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Twin Lakes Meyer, Kent Red Mountain Reeder, Matt Elevator Shaft Smith, Sean Indian Heaven (Blue Lake) Getgen, Richard Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Cape Horn Breunsbach, Rex Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Mt. Tabor Street Ramble Linza, Meg Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Forest Park: Heart of the Park Brickey, Sue Cooper Spur Justice, Greg Silver Star Mountain McGilvra, John Marys Peak Breunsbach, Rex Indian Heaven (Deep Lake) Getgen, Richard Tatoosh Lakes Sattgast, Caleb Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Sheepshead Rock-Squaw Mountain Breunsbach, Rex Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Lava Canyon Breunsbach, Rex Gnarl Ridge Hiland, Kurt Forest Park: Big Stump Breunsbach, Rex Hamilton Mountain Evans, Kate Wauneke Ridge Young, Kirby Portland Street Ramble Amodeo, Wanda Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Portland Street Ramble Fellers, Whit Forest Park Goodwin, Billie

Leader 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/27 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/29 10/30 11/1 11/1 11/1 11/1 11/1 11/1 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/3 11/5 11/6 11/6 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 11/9 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/10 11/11 11/12 11/12 11/13 11/13 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/15 11/17 11/17 11/17 11/20 11/23 11/24 11/24 11/26 11/27 11/22 11/22 11/22 11/22 11/29

Leader 6 4.5 7 6 9.1 5.7 6 16 9.1 7 7.5 6 4.5 6 6 7 6 5 7 6 8 8 9 7 6 4.5 6 6 9 8 6 6 5 6 7 7.2 8.5 11.1 10 7.2 7 7.5 6 4.5 6 6 7 6 6 13.8 5.4 2.2 3.6 13.8 12 7 8 6 5 7

9 9 9 9 3 12 9 6 3 14 13 13 13 13 13 9 9 9 9 8 6 8 6 14 13 14 14 13 15 10 10 10 10 11 10 6 4 5 9 4 11 10 10 10 11 10 7 7 7 9 3 4 10 6 5 4 5 4 5 10

Miles Att

Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Sherbeck, Terry Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Silver Star Mountain-Starway Trail Bishop, Gary Aldrich Butte-Cedar Falls Breunsbach, Rex Washington & Forest Park Rock, Kibbey Eagle-Benson/Ruckel Creek Loop Sattgast, Caleb Lookout Mountain Craycraft, Rick Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Sherback, Terry Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Gales Creek-Storey Burn Loop Breunsbach, Rex Dog Mountain Auerbach, Mitch Hunchback Mountain Davidson, Tom Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Elevator Shaft Davidson, Tom Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Egan, John Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Sherback, Terry Dog Mountain Davidson, Tom Gorton Creek-Nick Eaton Ridge Justice, Greg Wyeth Trail Young, Kirby Table Mountain Davidson, Tom Salmon River Trail Meyer, Kent Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Hanson, Marty Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Guyot, Tom Portland Street Ramble Van Rossen, Daniel Larch Mountain Breunsbach, Rex Dry Creek Falls-Pinnacles Breunsbach, Rex Latourell Falls Marlin, Kelly West Leg Road (SS) Sattgast, Caleb Larch Mountain Bishop, Gary Benson Plateau Craycraft, Rick Portland Street Ramble Braem, David Portland Street Ramble Brown, Amy Portland Street Ramble Lincoln, Wayne Portland Street Ramble Smith, Robert Portland Street Ramble Braem, David

Date Trip

Legend: Att=Attendance BP=Backpack SS=Snowshoe TT=Trail Tending RTM=Round-the-Mountain LWH=Lodge Week Hike ATC=All Trails Challenge

9/29 10/1 10/2 10/2 10/2 10/4 10/4 10/4 10/4 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/6 10/8 10/8 10/8 10/9 10/11 10/11 10/11 10/11 10/11 10/11 10/12 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/13 10/15 10/15 10/15 10/16 10/16 10/16 10/18 10/18 10/18 10/18 10/18 10/19 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/20 10/22 10/22 10/23 10/23 10/23 10/25 10/25 10/25 10/25 10/25 10/25 10/27 10/27

Date Trip

Official Mazama Trail Trips 11/29 11/29 11/29 11/29 11/29 12/1 12/1 12/1 12/1 12/1 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/10 12/11 12/11 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/13 12/14 12/15 12/15 12/15 12/15 12/15 12/17 12/17 12/17 12/18 12/18 12/20 12/20 12/20 12/20 12/20 12/20 12/22 12/22 12/22 12/22 12/22 12/22 12/24 12/26 12/27 12/27 12/27 12/27 12/28 12/29 12/29 12/29 12/31 12/31

Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Boy Scout Ridge (SS) Devils Rest Three Spires Boy Scout Ridge (SS) Elk-Kings Traverse Pup Creek Falls Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls) Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Barlow Forest Road (SS) Silver Star Mountain Barlow Forest Road (SS) Bunker Hill-Whistle Punk Dublin Lake Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Hamilton Mountain Waespe Point Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Portland Street Ramble Forest Park Tom-Dick Mountain (SS)

Date Trip Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Van Rossen, Daniel Bream, David Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Hanson, Marty Justice, Greg Marlin, Kelly Van Rossen, Daniel Craycraft, Rick Breunsbach, Rex Brown, Amy Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Bishop, Gary Braem, David Egan, John Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Hanson, Marty McGilvra, John Van Rossen, Daniel Breunsbach, Rex Sattgast, Caleb Braem, David Brown, Amy Egan, John Guyot, Tom Hanson, Marty Lincoln, Wayne Braem, David Brown, Amy Egan, John Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Davidson, Tom Breunsbach, Rex Brown, Amy Guyot, Tom Lincoln, Wayne Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Braem, David Guyot, Tom Smith, Robert Breunsbach, Rex Davidson, Tom

Leader 8 6 5 6 6 7 6 4.5 6 6 4.5 7.4 6.4 4.5 8.5 8.5 8 5 6 6 5 12.6 7 4.5 6 4.5 6 5 10 5 7.5 13.5 7 8 5 6 4.5 6 7 7.5 4.5 6 6 5 7. 6 8 7.5 6 6 6 7. 6 7.5 6 5 7. 6 5

10 10 10 11 10 9 9 9 9 9 11 9 5 11 5 4 12 12 12 12 12 9 10 10 10 10 10 13 3 13 7 4 8 7 8 8 8 8 7 6 7 7 7 7 9 4 8 8 8 8 3 6 7 7 23 4

Miles Att

In Memoriam

Mazamas Who Passed Away in 2011 Prudence Edwards Denney—1949 Rose M. Flodin —1989 Gayle Telitha Hammond —1947 John Helmer II—1955 Charles W. Jensen—1958 Russell Jolley—2011 Ruth McCormick—2010 Jack McMahon—1984 Mount Rainier

Dr. Robert S. Miller—1964 Cathy Oswald—1999 Watford Reed—1947 Charles Robert Rindt—1950 Roy Sandvig—1966 Richard Skreen—1968 James H. Wallace—1983 Lynette Zuercher—1986 Photo: Bob Breivogel