FEBRUARY 2015
VOL. 97
NO. 2
Get out and Climb Some Ice!
Ouray Ice Park, Hyalite, Canmore & More Grivel Ice Tech Review Upcoming Activities
CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 503-227-2345 adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Fri. 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd., Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thursday Noon— Monday Noon
Mazama Staff
Navigating the Wy’east Traverse on New Year’s Day. Photo: Jeff Welter
UPCOMING EVENTS FEB. 13 —BASIC ROCK SKILLS Brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line, and cleaning a top rope anchor. More details on page 14.
FEB. 15 —WILDERNESS NAVIGATION: MAP & COMPASS The class is a full single day of lecture, classroom exercises and a field session. The morning lectures covers basic map and compass use with classroom exercises. The field session is held at Hamilton Island in the Columbia River Gorge and offers lots hands on practice using these navigation tools. More details: mazamas.org/educationclasses/wilderness-navigation-map-compass/. More details on page 14.
FEB. 23—BCEP LEADER ORIENTATION
Orientation for the 2015 BCEP Leaders. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
FEB. 25—MAZAMA WELCOME NIGHT
Are you a new Mazama member, or looking to join? Or, have you been around for a while and want new ways to engage? Come to a Mazama Welcome Night, where we’ll give you an overview of all of our programs, classes and activities; opportunities to get involved at every skill level; and learn some fun Mazama history trivia. Please RSVP to kati@mazamas.org. 7 p.m. at the MMC.
FEB. 23, 28 & 29—SNOW CAMPING SKILL BUILDER
If you’ve been exploring the Pacific Northwest without camping on snow, you’re missing out. Whether a multi-day climb on a glaciated peak in July or a back country ski trip in January, camping in and on snow opens up a world of new experiences. More details: mazamas.org/education-classes/snow-camping/
Cover: Ice climbing in Ouray Ice Park, Ouray, CO. Photo: Tyler Bax.
FEATURES
How to Lead Ice More Confidently, p. 6 Alaskan Ice, p. 8 Book Review: Ice & Mixed Climbing, p. 11 Gear Review: The Tech Machine, p. 12 Taking 200,000 up Mt. Kilimanjaro, p. 13 Where to Ice Climb, p. 16 Ice Climbing in Ouray, Colorado, p. 24
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Volunteer Opportunities, p. 5 Upcoming Opportunities, p. 14 Evening Travel Programs, p. 15 Classics, p. 18 Mazama Families, p. 19 20s & 30s, p. 20 Mazama Lodge Notes, p. 21 Outings, p. 22 Obituaries, p. 27 Membership Report, p. 27 Trail Trips Info, p. 28 Executive Council Minutes, p. 30
Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org)
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: (mazama.ads@ mazamas.org). Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed (no snail mail) to the editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
Program Diversity
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
The Challenge of Relevancy
Our founder, and five-time President, Charles Sholes wrote in 1923 that our most ambitious members drive, or desire the Mazamas to promote a broad range of activities. Even though our mission is narrowly focused on mountaineering, the diversity and span of our programs and activities is broad. Our education programs focus on alpine climbing and those adjacent disciplines that are either fundamental prerequisites to being a mountaineer, or augment our ability to travel in the mountains. We also teach advanced climbing classes and expedition classes to continually expand our students’ horizons. Mazama activity programs are even more diverse, including ski tours, snowshoeing, international outings, backpacking, trail tending, stewardship trips and full blown expeditions. In the spirit of the diversity of our programs, we are focusing this issue of the Mazama Bulletin on ice climbing. Vertical and waterfall ice climbing is one of the most ambitious and challenging of mountaineering disciplines. Many of our members have been introduced to ice climbing through our Ice Climbing Skill Builder and/or Advanced Snow & Ice Program. Others through the nearly annual trips to the Ouray Ice Park in Colorado that were started by long-time climb leader Richard Caldwell. Some of our members now travel to attend the regional ice climbing competitions in Bozeman, Montana, Michigan, New England and Cody, Wyoming. And for three years now, the Mazamas have helped to organize the Portland Ice Fest/Competition in partnership with John Frieh and the Portland Rock Gym as a key part of the Portland Alpine Festival, hosted by the Mazamas. Mazama-hosted community events, programs, classes, and outings are all increasing in number and diversity. And in the last few years, the Mazamas itself has become an expanding organization. Our membership is growing monthly and reached an all-time high in 2014. All of this activity is driven by our clear passion for climbing and mountaineering as a
The noblest heritage bequeathed to the members of the Mazamas is that life expands by contrasts. The more extensive one’s field of observation, the more numerous the objects for comparison, the more comprehensive and intelligent will be their conclusions regarding their relation to the universe. It cannot be consciously sought; it comes by indirection. This alone justifies as broad a field for Mazama activities as the most ambitious members desire. —Mazamas President, Charles Sholes in his 1923 annual address celebrating 30 years of Mazama Outings.
community, and is a true joy to watch. Just in the last month, Mazamas were reporting back to us on treks in Patagonia, and fitting for this issue, ice climbing in eastern Washington, Canmore, B.C., Ouray, CO, Bozeman, MT, and a few very odd places hidden away in the Columbia Gorge. And for the last several years, our members have organized and executed annual adventures to the most notable mountains and climbing areas on earth. As the Mazamas grows in size and diversity so does our field of observation and our understanding of our place in the world. The more we activate our members through our mission, the more they see and the more they report back to us. As we learn more as an organization from our members, the more clearly we see the problems our people and environment face. As our founding president, Charles Sholes said in 1923: “The more extensive one’s field of observation, the more numerous the objects for comparison, the more comprehensive and intelligent will be their conclusions regarding their relation to the universe. It cannot be consciously sought; it comes by indirection. This alone justifies as broad a field for Mazama activities as the most ambitious members desire.” I’ve often been asked why Mazamas should grow. Why would we want to make things more complicated? Isn’t simpler better and more fun!? The answer is simple, and is rooted in Mr. Sholes’s statement above. The world is an ever more complicated place with more complicated problems.
The more we understand the problems our members see, the more we are called to organize our community and focus our collective energy on solving these important issues. Many nonprofits talk about the need for relevancy. Relevancy for any organization lives in its ability to see, understand and address the problems of its constituents. This is a basic duty of all organizations and is true for the Mazamas. For us to be effective at representing the interests of our members, and for us to have any chance of effectively solving the problems they see, we must grow. For you, as individuals and members, I encourage you to broaden your horizons this year through your love of the mountains. Travel to climb, hike or ski; try a new sport, or engage in a cause you care about. If you have time, consider volunteering with the Mazamas to help us promote mountaineering and share the wonders and joys of mountaineering with others. And when you get back, please tell us what you saw! Write a report, include pictures and send them in to sarah@mazamas.org so we can share what you have seen with all of Mazamas.
Lee Davis Executive Director
FEBRUARY 2015 3
Letter from the Editor Tell us YOUR story
by Sarah Bradham, Mazamas Marketing & Publications Manager This issue is all about ice! Ice climbing locales, techniques, tools, and more. If you have never climbed ice before, or you have been climbing ice for years, we hope you will find these articles, written by your fellow Mazama members, of interest. One of the things that makes the Mazamas a great organization is the diverse background of our membership. We have members who travel to climb ice, others who know every single trail in the Columbia Gorge (some that even guidebook authors don’t know about!),
members who teach classes and lead climbs, and so much more. Not everyone has the skills or time to see all of the mountains, meadows, slopes and crags of the world, but together our members can—and they DO. By sending us your stories you’re sharing your alpine experiences with others in a forum where you know your story will be appreciated. Even if you don’t consider yourself a writer, our Publications Committee can help you turn your story into something that can be enjoyed by a wide audience. Questions? Send me an email at sarah@mazamas.org. You can submit content at any time to mazama.bulletin@ mazamas.org. Happy exploring!
DID YOU KNOW? ▶▶ Stay connected with Mazamas on Facebook. Like our page today: facebook. com/mazamas.pdx ▶▶ Read the Mazama Bulletin online at issuu.com/mazamas. The publication is in full color and is easily readable on tablets and laptops. ▶▶ You can download a PDF of the Bulletin if you login to the Member pages of the Mazama website. Login, click on the Members tab and click on Mazama Bulletin & Annual. ▶▶ You can advertise your business in the Mazama Bulletin. Go to tinyurl. com/MazamasAds for details. ▶▶ Read interesting Mazama stories, and relevant information from around the web on the Mazama blog. Mazamas.blogspot.com
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES
Youth Outreach Instructors
Mazama Hike Leader Clinic
The Mazamas has begun offering a Learn to Belay class to community youth through partners like Friends of the Children, Betties360 and Adelante Mujeres. We are looking for volunteers to assist with and instruct the classes. Please contact Kati Mayfield (kati@mazamas.org) if you are interested and available one or more of the following dates: Feb. 6, March 6, April 24 & 25, May 22.
Do you want to share your love of the outdoors with others? Do you enjoy hiking and exploring where you want, when you want, and at the pace you want? Join us February 18th to learn about becoming a hike leader. Sponsored by the Trail Trips Committee, contact TTC Co-Chairs Regis Krug (regis_ krug@mentor.com) or Terry Lawson (lawson.terry@gmail. com) Terry Lawson to learn more.
Starting Friday, February 6
Wednesday, Feb. 18
Inspiring Connections Outdoors— Leader training
Mountaineering First Aid Skill Checkers
The Mazamas has partnered with the Portland chapter of the Sierra Club’s Inspiring Connections Outdoors program to create meaningful outdoor experiences for Portland area youth. We need volunteers to lead and support outings such as hikes, ski days and snowshoe trips for these kids. If you enjoy working with kids, come to an ICO Leader Training on Tuesday, Feb. 24 at the MMC. Contact ICO Chair Shayna Rehberg, shaynarehberg@ yahoo.com if you have questions or would like to sign up.
For the past year, a new core group of First Aid Committee members have been working hard to make first aid fun again! We had a great fall class and winter recert, and we’re excited about the upcoming spring class. But we need Skill Checkers to make it happen. If you are currently MFA certified we would love your help! Classes are Feb. 10, 12, 19, 24 and March 5 from 6:30–9:30 p.m. at the MMC, and the weekend session is March 7–8 at the Mazama Lodge. Contact Kim Edger at kimberlyedger@gmail.com if you can help.
Tuesday, February 2/24
February/March 2015
Used Equipment Sale Volunteers Sale is March 20
Are you interested in helping out with the 2015 Used Equipment Sale? We need everything from greeters to cashiers to floor managers. You can find more information about the event and the volunteer roles and can sign up to help out by clicking this link: https://sites. google.com/site/uesmazama/.
Trail Tending Team/Trail Ambassadors Ongoing
Trail ambassadors at Broughton Bluff (Lewis and Clark State Park, Oregon) volunteer on a regular basis to assess trail conditions, report problems on trails, pick up litter and perform routine maintenance at the crag such as brushing and erosion control. Volunteers will work closely with Oregon State Park rangers and help organize Adopt-a-Crag events with Mazamas Stewardship Manager. Volunteers should have some trail tending experience, but we can also train you. Contact Stewardship Manager, Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org for more information.
KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG
Outreach Team Members Ongoing
Do you enjoy attending events and meeting new people? Do you have experience tabling? Do you LOVE the Mazamas? Then we need you to join our Outreach Team. The Outreach Team members are on call to represent the Mazamas at mountaineering and outdoor industry events around the community. You will receive training and materials on how to pitch the Mazamas, and can select to attend the events that interest you and suit your schedule. Contact Outreach Committee Chair Gary Ballou, outreach@ mazamas.org, to sign up or learn more.
Rehabilitation and Prevention of Rock Climbing, Mountaineering & Hiking Injuries Lynne Pedersen, DPT, Mazama Member Since 2006 FEBRUARY 2015 5
MENTAL TRAINING
How to Lead Ice More Confidently (By Someone Not Very Good at it Either) by Katie Mills You understand anchors. You know how to place ice screws. You’ve done your time at Ouray, been top roping several times, you’ve got your swing down and your technique is flawless. Why is taking that next step ... leading ... so terrifying?! Ice climbing is inherently scary. There is nothing in our evolution that tells humans they need to scale frozen waterfalls. But ice climbing is so fun, and leading is challenging and satisfying. I am not a naturally fearless brave person, and I have worked a long time in order to do it competently. I thought I’d share some of the tips I picked up, in hopes that I’ll have some new partners to swap leads with soon!! ▶▶ 1. GET A LEAD HEAD Unfortunately, people in Portland don’t get to ice climb every weekend, so you have to find other means that work. Leading ice will be much harder if you don’t already have a lead head from leading rock. Being able to bust out any 5.7 or 5.8 sport route outside is a good mental start to help you with ice climbing. If you only lead a couple times when you’re at the gym because you find it scary and mentally taxing that’s not enough. Do it till it becomes no big deal. Leading at the rock gym will help you lead ice. Things must feel easy in the gym because outside is way tougher. ▶▶ 2. TRUST YOUR STICKS You must be able to trust your sticks with your picks. It’s harder to tell if your feet are going to blow or not. And they’re simply going to slip sometimes. So you have to have good sticks. And once you know you have a solid stick you just trust it. You KNOW it’s not gonna blow. So move up. And then get another solid stick. Don’t move up on a stick you don’t trust. ▶▶ 3. BREAK THE CLIMB DOWN INTO SECTIONS Don’t get overwhelmed by the enormity of the climb. Visualize from down below where you’re going to put your screws. Usually there is some natural feature you can use so you can place a screw not standing only on front points. You have to run screws out on ice routes because you can only carry so many. Run out the easy parts, put one in before the hard part, power through the hard part, put one in before you pull a lip or bulge because that’s often where you blow your sticks due to the change in direction of pull. Trust your technique when running out screws. You’ve got two tools to hang on to, you’re not going to fall.
This page: Katie Mills on High School Squids (WI4) SouthFork of the Shoshone, Cody, WY photo by Todd Torres. Right page: Katie Mills on the Fat One (WI3), Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman, MT. Photo: John Frieh. Bio Photo: The author on the Thrill is Gone (WI4/M4), Hyalite Cannyon, Bozeman, MT. Photo: Todd Torres.
6 MAZAMA BULLETIN
I like to psych myself up and make myself pretend it’s no big deal before the start of the climb by loudly proclaiming something really confident and stupid. ▶▶ 4. MASTER SCREW PLACEMENT You have to be solid before placing a screw. Solid feet and one solid tool. Move around till you are in balance in a somewhat restful position. You need to be able to use all that torque from twisting your hip and can’t do it with manky feet. Don’t try to place a screw from an uncomfortable awkward position. Practice placing screws while standing a foot above the ground or on top rope. ▶▶ 5. LEARN TO REST Master the shake out. Move your feet around till you are in a restful balanced position, then be able to switch holding on with either hand while resting alternate arms. I feel like I can hang on a wall forever this way. Shake out when you first feel the slightest hint of screaming barfies coming on—better yet, shake out before you feel them at all. You should never freak out because you’re on the wall, feel pumped and can’t place a screw. Get balanced and restful and then shake out till you are able to place a screw. ▶▶ 6. FAKE IT TILL YOU MAKE IT: I like to psych myself up and make myself pretend it’s no big deal before the start of the climb by loudly proclaiming something really confident and stupid, such as ‘SCHOOL’S IN SESSION’ or ‘TAKING THE TRAIN TO SENDSVILLE!’ It really does help!
▶▶ BONUS TIP: BUMP UP YOUR GRADE WI3 is doable for everyone who has the mental head to lead because it is low angle and you are mostly balanced on your feet. How do you bump up to WI4? I asked every famous ice climber that came through PAF that question. One said top rope a bunch of WI4s. Ok, yeah duh. One said get stronger. A very valid point. You can’t climb higher ice grades relying on fancy footwork alone. It’s a lockoff game, the ability to pull yourself up steeper terrain for longer. Have you seen Inez Paperts arms? Massive!! Do pullups, join CrossFit, climb all the overhanging jugs at the gym you can. But still, this was not the secret weapon I was searching for. I figured out what I needed to know on my own though, and the key is mastering tip #5. To climb WI4 you must learn how to manage your rests. You’re going to get tired, you’re going to pump out, you’re going to think its impossible to get a screw in and you’re so far above the last one. At this point, get good feet, and hang with one straight arm while lowering and shaking out the other arm. Switch arms and do the same thing. Repeat until your arms have regained strength. Now you can put that screw in and head on your merry way up that steep relentless section till you do it again. Another key to climbing harder grades is improving efficiency. Swing as high as you can, bump up on your tools’ handrests, and get your feet as high as possible. The goal is to get up the route in as few swings as possible. Because the less swings you have to make the less tired you’ll be!
Katie Mills joined the Mazamas in 2006 and took all the classes she could! A beginning ice clinic with Will Gadd, ASI with Derek Castonguay, and Alpine Programming with John Frieh has since fueled her excitement for ice climbing. She’s on her third season and has ventured to locales such as Ouray, Bozeman, Lillooet BC, and Cody on her quest to climb frozen waterfalls.
FEBRUARY 2015 7
ICE CLIMBING
Alaskan ICE by Dustin Fric When I first got into climbing I, like most others, really wanted the opportunity to climb in Alaska. It always seemed like Alaska had this elusive, wild and tough persona to it that I really wanted to experience for myself. I honestly pictured penguins, icebergs and igloos surrounded by steep jagged peaks that never melt out, sitting atop endless glaciers. Finally, after years upon years of waiting for an opportunity that worked for me, I found myself travelling to Alaska for the first time in October 2013 to explore its frozen waterfalls. On this trip I stayed for 55 days climbing daily with Travis McAlpine. We climbed 75 pitches using Travis’s dark purple bus as a base camp. For a first trip to Alaska, I felt that we had a pretty productive quest. The classic Nabesna “Spring Fling” itself was enough to draw me back, not to mention all the other ice across the state. Everywhere I turned there were more and more seeps, daggers, curtains, pillars and flows. I found them on the sides of the highway, in the mountains and in hidden in the trees.
8 MAZAMA BULLETIN
This trip was funded in part by a grant from the Mazama Expedition Committee.
I enjoy ice climbing over any other forms of climbing because of the elusive nature of a frozen medium. From day to day the conditions vary, making ascents much more difficult and therefore more enjoyable. Ice climbing requires a combination of humility and persistence – being able to get shut down consistently without letting it get you down. This season I flew into Anchorage at 11 p.m. on Nov. 10. I met Travis and Nick Frazee, eager to climb ice however and whenever we could—which for us means all day, every day. I have been climbing ice with Travis for over eight years. Throughout those years we have had many adventures and have quite literally grown up climbing together. Learning from one another’s mistakes and successes, and progressing at similar paces. Travis and I have been spending our Novembers chasing ice for the past seven seasons. He is an alpine animal, finding a partner as dedicated as he is to climbing ice is rare. Our most substantial trip over the years started with 30 days in a wall tent in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. This was followed directly by 60 days in Cooke City, Montana climbing daily and working at one of the local hotels for a room to stay in. In the past, our November climbing trips focused on ice in Yellowstone’s subsidiary drainages and have now shifted to Alaska. Travis introduced Nick Frazee to me in Hyalite Canyon a few years back. Since then we have had more than a few great days in the wilderness. Nick is an upbeat, motivated and positive person,
who in just a few years has advanced himself into quite the ice climber. I convinced Nick to come out to Alaska in favor of a trip to Nepal, which was no easy feat. Lucky for us his climbing partner became unavailable to accompany him to Nepal. Having Nick with us always seems to increase our odds of success. For this trip we had the perfect team. This season’s trip was 24 days long. We traveled by truck as well as a converted bus to establish base camps in the following areas: Caribou Creek, Thompson Pass, Chitna, Nabesna, Eklutna River, Eklutna Glacier, Hunter Creek and Jackass Creek. On our journeys we used mountain bikes, rafts, ice skates and a combination of wader/dry suits to access climbs. One of the great things about Alaska is how remote it is, making access to climbs a dilemma. Being versatile and incorporating as many different modes of transportation as possible really helped us explore the vast country more efficiently. During most of the trip we slept in tents and, even during warm seasons like this one in Alaska, we were cold. With no absolute plans and an open schedule, we allowed the ice to dictate where we spent our time. By living in the backcountry, not in hotels, we saved enough money to allow us to explore for weeks on end. Another advantage to this gorilla style of trip is comfort level. While many would argue it is most comfortable to sleep indoors, I argue that you gain confidence in your environment the more time you spend in it, making you comfortable with your surroundings quicker. Freedom of mobility adds chances of success on all alpine objectives, not to mention the fact that it’s more exciting. This style is often called “dirtbagging” in rock climbing. I believe that this gorilla approach to Alaskan ice climbing is becoming a thing of the past. Short trips with hotel stays are becoming the norm across the country. But
The days seem to shift from sunrise to sunset everyday with the sun line never reaching valley floors. I grew accustomed to the small amount of light and easily forgot how good it feels to bask in the sun.
hands down, the most important part of climbing to me is feeling a part of nature and being fully enveloped in the large expanse that is Alaska and requires sleeping outdoors as much as possible. We started on our epic road trip on the 11th heading towards Valdez. On the way we stopped in Caribou Creek and night soloed “The Kid Around the Corner;” a classic fivepitch WI3 with two inches of running water over the ice. This was the best first route of the season I had ever had! A night solo of this length for a first climb of the season was amazing, not to mention we were in Alaska. At this point none of the major rivers were frozen over, leaving many routes out of our reach. We spent the next four days in the Thompson Pass area, an area that sees very little ice climbing due to the fact that Valdez is nearby and stealing its thunder. Thompson Pass is well known as an amazing ski venue, despite the great early season ice. We started off by climbing an 800 foot WI3; which was one of the few climbs in climbable condition in the area. Next we headed to Valdez to check the conditions there. During the drive we counted 89 bald eagles, missing at least twice that many while counting. Alaska is such a wild amazing place, the only place where bald eagles are as common as pests. Sadly, the ice in Valdez was not in due to
Left: An extremely cold approach that required tunneling through a partially the warm early frozen part of Hunter Creek. Nick Frazie and Dustin Fric. Photo: Cody Beach. Above: season, such a Nick Frazie in a cow costume on costume day on Kantillina Falls in Caribou Creek. misfortune. Valdez Photo: Dustin Fric. is a mecca for with three pitches of ice totaling 450 feet. ice climbing, any The final pitch was an amazing WI3+ pillar opportunity to climb here should be taken. that was a great pitch for Colin, an Alaskan Most of the rivers were still open running resident new to ice climbing who joined water, limiting our access. We attempted us the night before and was the youngest to use a raft to access some climbs on the climber in our group. other side of the river and used rafts we Now that we were all warmed up we found at the thrift store earlier in Valdez. We discovered that in 10-degree conditions rafts headed into Nabesna, the main area of focus on our trip. On day one in the valley explode with the mixture of body weight we climbed “Spring Fling”—a 1,150-foot WI and cold water. 4 in under four hours car to car. We lucked The next day we climbed a route we out and enjoyed 15 degree temperatures, called the ice “Cliff Gully”—an 800-foot WI4 which was way better than the -15 degree that more than likely sees very few ascents conditions we had climbed it in last year! due to significant avalanche prone slopes Nick poked his head up over the crux on looming above for thousands of feet. On the the fifth pitch only to see two basketballtop of the first pitch we saw moose and wolf sized boulders flying towards his head like prints. We were constantly reminded of how pinballs through the tight slot towards his untamed the Alaskan backcountry is. This head. He had just enough time to duck and was the only climb on our whole 25-day trip climb through. Constant rock fall on the where we climbed in direct sunlight! The route motivated us to climb it and wrap days seem to shift from sunrise to sunset in two and a half hours, which was only everyday with the sun line never reaching valley floors. I grew accustomed to the small possible because we simul-climbed. Because of the loose rock flying we climbed quietly, amount of light and easily forgot how good waiting calmly after rock fall to make sure it feels to bask in the sun. everyone was OK to climb on. We made The next leg of our ice extravaganza was great time considering that five rappels are a brief stop in Chitna, an area that doesn’t see more than a party or two a year. Here we climbed a great gully called the Chitna route
continued on next page FEBRUARY 2015 9
Alaskan Ice, continued from previous page the crux of the route. We had planned on driving snowmobiles to a cabin on a lake that had potential first ascents in the area, but the lack of snow made this impossible. We were hoping to get deeper into the backcountry in the Nabesna area but the conditions in Alaska this warm November made it less likely to yield the results we hoped for. We settled on climbing “Wing and A Prayer”—a 50-meter WI5 very similar to the classic “Hydromonster” in Montana, and equally as classic. This route is high on most climbers’ Alaska tick list. Due to the warm conditions and lack of snow in Nabesna, we packed up and headed back to Palmer to resupply, stopping briefly in Caribou again to check the conditions of the frozen river for access. On the way there we climbed in Eklutna Canyon and Jackass Creek, finding the river crossings treacherous and unsafe at best. Keeping a tally as to who had fallen into the river the most as we attempted to cross was impossible - we all fell in too many times to count. This motivated us to embark upon a long journey into the deep alpine in search of long frozen rivers of ice at higher
elevations. By far the most exciting and rewarding leg of our journey was our lengthy trip into the Eklutna Glacier. We parted ways with Travis and Colin for this leg of the trip, so Nick and I travelled on to the glacier together. For this we chose to ride bikes to the Serenity Cabin 13 miles from the trailhead. The chain broke on Nick’s pink women’s 10-speed within spitting distance from the truck! With the bike stashed in the bushes, Nick did not hesitate to start the journey unexpectedly by foot. Once we made it to the cabin we were blown away by the potential in this zone. The front wall of the cabin is a grid of windows with an immaculate view of “The Mitre,” “The Watchman” and “Benign Peak,” as well as “Serenity Falls”—an amazing six pitch WI4. With the extremely warm November we were experiencing, “Serenity Falls” needed quite the cold snap to come in. The Serenity “hut” is more of a chateau than a cabin or a hut, 10 people can sleep comfortably here with unbeatable access to the valley above. Eklutna Glacier has been receding at an alarming rate according to the journal entries at the hut. Neither of us brought a book, so the journal was a hot commodity, with crazy funny stories of people’s adventures in the area. Apparently an albino moose frequents the area and bears are around every corner in the summer season. The next morning Nick and I headed to the toe of the glacier to
investigate the conditions of the ice. The terrain took us aback. It took a lot of effort to get to the toe and was a very rewarding experience. We felt as if we had been granted special permission to spend time in such an amazing location. Some places feel sacred and Eklutna Glacier felt more sacred than any place I had visited. Both Nick and I agreed that the atmosphere was foreboding at first, but after the second day we felt much more a part of and in tune with our surroundings. We found many ice lines on the verge of being climbable just not quite there. Four miles from the cabin we caught a glimpse of a real monster, “Freer’s Tears.” Things couldn’t have turned out better, to travel so far and find such an amazing line in shape with the perfect partner does not happen every day. Sometimes things just fall into place. We climbed “Freer’s Tears,” which was one of the most magnificent lines I have ever climbed, totaling 450 feet of WI4. At this point we had climbed our way around the interior of Alaska and only had a couple days left. We headed back to Caribou knowing that the ice would be looking good after our last look in the canyon. We climbed “Kantellia Falls,” one of the best pieces of ice in the canyon, at three pitches and 400 feet tall, rated WI5, it felt more like a WI4. The following day we ice skated to another classic WI4: “China Wear.” All said and done, our trip to Alaska was great. We are all excited to get out there again. I am reminded of why I ice climb: it takes me to foreign places, with amazing people, on abstract missions, for no purpose but to just have fun and experience nature. I recommend ice climbing in Alaska for avid ice climbers who have never been. It’s always a fully rewarding experience.
Left: Dustin Fric leading the variation to the top pitch of Kantillina Falls. Photo: Nick Frazie.
Dustin Fric is an Idaho based climber that calls the small mountain town of Stanley his home. He moved there in 2006 to strongly pursue climbing, with several ranges right out of stanley he picked a great spot. Dustin’s strongest passion is traveling to climb frozen waterfalls, it seems as though he has climbed most of the frozen classics in the west and a bit more. He has had first ascents in many states, and seems to rack up more every year.
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BOOK REVIEW
Ice & Mixed Climbing Modern Technique, by Will Gadd by Barry Maletzky The Godfather of ice climbing, Yvon Chouinard, once told a class on Mt. Hood’s Eliot Glacier that the only difference between him and us students was confidence. He was wrong. The contrasts went far deeper (I believe he was only trying to build our self-esteem). They included strength, balance, experience and knowledge. It is this latter that reading a book about ice climbing can convey, although knowledge’s older sibling, wisdom, can only arrive through experience, as Will Gadd, ice climber extraordinaire, admits in this somewhat dated (2003) but still relevant treatise. Indeed, Chouinard’s title, Climbing Ice, although penned four decades ago, still reverberates with relevance; Gadd’s work here should be seen as a requisite update to this earlier work and a necessary treatise for those willing to tackle the ice curtains and arctic vertical glass of frozen H2O. Even if you have no such frosty and suicidal ambitions, this work is valuable reading, as it outlines techniques of value for mixed climbing, not unknown in our local ranges. Especially relevant are sections outlining the tricky transitions from rock to ice and vice-versa. Also not to be missed is the author’s advice on dry tooling over steep rocky terrain, again relevant for us all. Although climbing techniques can evolve faster than bacteria in an antibiotic stew, this book remains as relevant today as when written a decade or more ago. But it is Gadd’s enthusiasm for the sport of climbing hanging chandeliers, frozen waterfalls and icy stalactites that makes this book shine. He absolutely revels in the corridors of frozen snow, skies marbled with cirrus, the weather always sharp and the
shortened days marked so often by violent on down-climbing twilight. Gadd takes to the cold like a feline routes, whether to catnip. Indeed, even lightly scanning on rappel or not. his words at first look, I was encouraged The text is enlivened with infrequent but to brave the cold, seeking stable ice, until entertaining sidebars, often contributed by I recalled floundering even on easy snow other well-known ice climbers such as Kim like a goldfish out of its tank, despite Csizmazia and Barry Blanchard. Moreover, attending Chouinard’s excellent seminars. the photographs by Roger Chayer are jawAs Gadd acknowledges, knowledge is a poor dropping and the illustrations clear and substitute for experience. illuminating. This is especially crucial in the Still, much can be gained from a careful final sections of the book on training, where read of Gadd’s work before venturing onto Gadd travels beyond the usual routines and frozen realms. He begins with equipment, demonstrates techniques and work-outs emphasizing the differences between specific to ice climbing, though in truth, gear for pure rock climbing and winter many of the methods described would fit excursions, before launching into the arcane, quite naturally into any climber’s gym and but necessary, differences between ice tools, climbing wall practices. As an important pick angles, going leashless, boot types, bonus, Gadd writes with a free-flowing, belay devices (beware the Gri-gri on ice-clad easy-to-understand style, yet is sufficiently ropes) and even the finer techniques articulate to entertain as well as to of sharpening your tools and crampon inform. points. (Who knew there was a difference in sharpening angle based It is Gadd’s enthusiasm for on where each point on the tool the sport of climbing hanging was placed?) Although the ice tools resemble a cross between medieval chandeliers, frozen waterfalls weapons of torture and modern and icy stalactities that makes aerospace technology, Gadd cleverly defines their differences, similarities this book shine. and their means of employment on the ice. He next covers techniques, such as tool Pity us poor Northwest climbers, rarely placements (gentle), types of tool swing, encountering the colder temperatures and optimum crampon use and staying warm solid enough ice for regular participation at the belay. The descriptions of proper in this subsection of our sport. But reading belay anchors and the use of V-threads Gadd, one might easily be persuaded to save are superior. He offers great advice on up for those trips to Ouray, Wyoming or approaches as well, along with my favorite Banff; the book really is that inspiring. Those suggestion: Go slowly on the approach. planning to challenge those icy pillars and No need to wear yourself out before the stone-cold snowy walls so well-illustrated actual climb. Other tidbits of special in this book should buy (not rent) a copy. It relevance: Try really hard not to fall if should be well-thumbed before venturing you’re leading ice; don’t solo (unless you’re out on the ice, and it should not be merely Will Gadd); and don’t climb thin ice with read; it should be studied. Best of luck to water running beneath its surface (what’s those of you brave enough to defy the frozen a Gorge ice climber to do?). Gadd adds vertical; just be sure to probe Gadd’s book clear descriptions on the often obtuse first. grading systems for ice and mixed climbs Gadd, W. (2003). Ice and Mixed Climbing: (700m,V,WI5,M7?). In contrast to many Modern Technique. The Mountaineers Books, guides, he also provides explicit suggestions Seattle. Mazama Library number 796.53.G11. FEBRUARY 2015 11
Gear Review
Grivel Tech Machine by Adam Nawrot After meeting Liberty Mountain’s Sales Director Peter McConkie, at the recent Portland Alpine Fest, he offered me an opportunity to demo a pair of the new Grivel Tech Machine ice tools for a week in Ouray over Christmas. The shiny yellow Tech Machine is aimed at the technical ice climber (as opposed to mixed or alpine climbing). It has the shaft curvature we’ve become accustomed to, a formed pommel grip, and lacks hammer or adze at the head. Overall, its design seems to be inspired by the Petzl Nomic, the tool which might be considered a current benchmark of ice tool design, based on the frequency that I’ve observed it around the Ouray Ice Park and in the hands of guides. I’ve had the chance to climb with a fair number of tools over the last 8 to 10 years, including Petzl Quarks (my own), Nomics and Aztars, Black Diamond Vipers, Cobras and Fusions, CAMP Awax, Grivel Pulsars, and some “classic” BD Prophets (essentially lead pipes with picks stuck on them). I am by no means an expert on tools, but the following is my take on the Tech Machine: On the ice, the Tech Machine felt like a mid-weight tool compared to some others, and it seems to balance its weight at the upper shaft. There is weight to the head, but doesn’t feel like Craftsman hammer. The head generated plenty of its own momentum without feeling heavy, so I never had to swing hard. The curvature creates plenty of space between hand and ice and I found that just a minor wrist-flick at the end of the swing planted the tool at the desired angle. Over the course of the week we started with soft, plastic ice and finished with harder ice as the nightly temperatures dropped. The pick stuck firmly in all ice
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conditions, even with fairly light swings. The Grivel pick seems like it might be a touch thicker than other tools, so with a stuck tool, I could twist it a little more than I might have dared with my own tools (and in the soft ice there were many stuck picks). I also found that the pick seemed to hold its sharpness well and file easily. I only needed a couple light strokes with a file to hone the tip, and that was only after hitting rock under some thin ice. After several more days on the colder ice, the pick was still nearly perfectly sharp. We shared the tools amongst our group, and even had a chance to put them in the hands of a guide, Chad Peele with San Juan Mountain Guides. Chad has worked with Mazama members during several of the annual ASI trips to Ouray. Reviews were pretty favorable from everyone whom tried the tools. The most specific critique came from Chad who felt the grip seemed larger in its girth than other common tools. Those with smaller hands or those who climb with heavy gloves may feel less secure in their grip on the tools. This probably comes down to each individual’s hand size and strength, though. When climbing in thicker gloves, I also found the width of the pommel to be a bit tight. I don’t have overly wide palms, so guys with XL hands might want to feel that out before buying. Also of note, the spike at the bottom of the shaft is essentially like a pointed steel ring. This makes it easy to clip a carabineer to, such as for umbilical leashes. Many other tools have solid spikes or only small holes in the handle to clip to, so Grivel’s design was a step ahead. The tool, like most others, does not come with leashes, and is generally intended for leash-less climbing. After a week with great ice and sweet tools, I’d say the Grivel Tech Machine is worthy of consideration for your tool shopping list. It’s a great tool on its own merits, and will stand up to the Nomic in
Heading out of the Ouray Ice Park after a great day on the ice. Photo: Tyler Bax.
my opinion. A big plus, it retails for $500 a pair, which is $100 less than a pair of Nomics. So if you see someone out on the ice swinging a bright yellow tool, make friends and try to borrow the Tech Machine for a pitch or three. And then save up $500. Many thanks go to Peter for his generous offer and to Grivel for supporting the Mazamas and the Portland Alpine Fest. Adam Nawrot has been climbing ice for 16 years and has been a Mazama since 2001. He coordinated the Basic Climbing Education Program in 2008 and the Advanced Snow & Ice Program in 2009.
Taking 200,000 up Mt. Kilimanjaro Climbing for Cancer Research by Charles Blanke It is likely most if not all readers of the Bulletin have been touched by cancer. The group I chair, known as SWOG Cancer Research, is one of the largest clinical research networks in the country. SWOG has had a major impact on the screening for, and prevention and treatment of neoplastic disease. We are part of the National Cancer Institute’s (NCI’s) publicly funded cooperative group network, which historically has conducted thousands of experimental trials testing new cancer agents, and leading to FDA approval of many new drugs. In fact, since its inception in the 1950s, more than 200,000 people—most cancer patients but many healthy volunteers in prevention studies as well—have volunteered to take part in SWOG clinical trials. SWOG’s research is led by many physician volunteers and is actually quite a bargain; however, it does have a multi-million dollar budget, which has been dramatically cut over the last few years, related to federal shortfalls. I myself have been rock climbing for more than 25 years now, and I did BCEP in 2014. On one of our conditioning hikes, leader Paul Steger mentioned he would be taking an expedition up Mt. Kilimanjaro in February of 2015. It sounded too good to be true! It seemed like a great chance
to raise awareness of the importance of cancer research, as well as to raise money to cover our group’s deficit. It also seemed like a great opportunity to honor those who have participated in our trials, helping us make breakthroughs that now benefit literally millions of patients. Several other groups that comprise the National Clinical Trials Research Network (NCTN) have joined us in publicizing this campaign, as has the American Society of Clinical Oncology’s Conquer Cancer Foundation. To date we have raised about $80,000, some of which will flow back to the Mazamas for helping with this effort. When we climb Kilimanjaro this month with the Mazamas, fellow OHSU oncologist (and SWOG member) Dr. Brett Sheppard and I will bring our heroes along. The honor flag we’ll unfurl at the summit will bear the initials of the 200,000 who have taken part in SWOG clinical trials, advancing our knowledge of how to detect, prevent and effectively treat cancer. You can learn more about the NCTN, SWOG, and the Kilimanjaro Climb for Cancer Clinical Trials—and make a contribution, if the spirit moves you—at swog.org/kilimanjaro. You can also follow our training, and eventually our progress up Kilimanjaro, on Facebook at: facebook.com/ ClimbforCancerClinicalTrials (“liking” us on Facebook is a great way to help!).
Sunny Freeman sunnyfreeman@windermere.com SunnyFreemanHomes.com twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
Your Mazama Realtor
Charles Blanke, MD, is a practicing oncologist and Professor of Medicine at the Knight Cancer Institute of the Oregon Health & Science University. He is the head of SWOG, one of 4 large-scale adult research organizations funded by the National Cancer Institute. A life member of the Mazamas, he been an avid rock climber and backpacker for 20+ years. Summiting Kilimanjaro would fulfill a decades-long dream of climbing one of the seven summits.
Counseling & Psychotherapy to address relationship issues, anxiety, depression, and unresolved loss or trauma 35 years experience Mazama since 2001 former member, CIDT
Virginia Terhaar, Ph.D. virginiaterhaar.com 503-274-1945
FEBRUARY 2015 13
UPCOMING OPPORTUNITIES
WILDERNESS NAVIGATION SKILL BUILDER CLASS— MAP & COMPASS
MAZAMA HIKE LEADER CLINIC The Trail Trips Committee, which arranges for hikes, rambles, snowshoes, backpacks, Round-the-Mountain and other hiking activities, is always looking for new hike leaders. We have over a hundred leaders covering more than 800 hikes, rambles, backpacking and other hiking-related activities per year. That takes a lot of leadership! Do you want to share your love of the outdoors with others? Do you enjoy hiking and exploring with other hiking enthusiasts, where you want, when you want, and at the pace you want? Become a Mazama Hike Leader! Are you already a Climb Leader? As a Climb Leader you are also approved for leading hikes. We would love for you to lead hikes anytime but especially November-May. BCEP hikes are especially popular in winter and spring. Join us on Feb. 18 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center to learn more about becoming a Mazama Hike Leader. You can also contact Regis Krug (regis_krug@mentor.com) or Terry Lawson (lawson.terry@gmail.com) to get started now!
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Are your navigation skills limited to finding your way back to your sleeping bag after a midnight nature call? Want to give your navigation ability a boost so you can have more confidence in off trail travel, by foot, ski or snowshoe? The Wilderness Navigation skill builder class has you covered. This class gives you an overview of essential map and compass skills to help you navigate in the backcountry. The course is taught two times a year in the winter and spring. It includes a classroom lecture and a field session, all on the same day. The classroom session covers map and compass use, with lecture and practical exercises. The field session is at Hamilton Island in the Gorge and will offer lots of hands-on practice.
WINTER SESSION: ▶▶ When: Sunday, Feb. 15, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Lecture: 8 a.m.–noon, Immediately followed by the field session: 1:30–4 p.m., ▶▶ Location: Lecture at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and field session at Hamilton Island, Columbia River Gorge (near Bonneville Dam) ▶▶ Cost: $50 members, $75 non-members ▶▶ For complete details and registration, go to mazamas.org and navigate to Skill Builder Classes under Education & Classes.
BASIC ROCK SKILLS
Do you need to brush up on your basic rock climbing skills such as knots, tying in, climbing commands, belaying, rappelling, prusiking, passing protection on a fixed line and cleaning a top rope anchor? Join us on the instructional climbing walls at the Mazama Mountaineering Center. You do not need to be a Mazama member to register for these climbing clinics. ▶▶ Upcoming Dates: Feb. 13, March 13, April 17, May 20, June 17; 6–9 p.m. ▶▶ Location: The Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215 ▶▶ Time: 6 - 9 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $15 per evening clinic. ▶▶ Register at: mazamas.org/education-classes/basic-rock-skills/ ▶▶ Required Gear: Climbing harness, at least 3 locking and 2 nonlocking carabiners, a belay device, a climbing helmet, personal protection (sometimes called a personal leash), prusik cord, and rock shoes or climbing boots. You can rent rock shoes and other gear at The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th).
Trek, Climb, and Hike— without leaving Portland
EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS
Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley (Co-chair), John Leary (Co-chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary and Gail O’Neill.
HIKING JAPAN: FEB. 4
Join John Osaki for a personal odyssey to Japan and his 15 trips to Japan. Tonight he presents a photo essay of the wide open island landscapes of Hokkaido, characterized by alpine tundra, volcanic peaks and crater lakes, native bear and fox, and bugling elk. Trails on Shikoku wind up and down mountains, along the coast and to remote temples beneath cascades of spring cherry blossoms. In the Japan Alps, rocky ridges climb up serrated peaks in the National Park. On Honshu, a hike to the summit of Hakusan is quite different than experiencing the dawn with the crowds (and a post office) on the 12,389 foot summit of Mt Fuji! John appears in the Shikoku episode of the PBS series Sacred Journeys which aired on, Tuesday December 16 at p.m. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/sacredjourneys/.
THE CREAM OF THE HIGH SIERRAS: FEB. 11
Join Dan Hannon and Cathie Pake, hikers who are not letting age get in their way of hiking the trails. Enjoy lovely photos of the austere landscapes and the grandly colored trees, streams, peaks and meadows from Walker Pass to Bishop Pass. They describe the challenges and the joys of walking 165 miles in 18 days at average elevation over 8,000 ft. They will discuss lightweight backpacking, pacing, cooking, dealing with scarce water and will bring samples of home-packaged meals, equipment choices and clothing for 8–10 days of self-supported hiking. The general rule of lightweight backpacking is about the same as for most other parts of life: The little choices we make add up, and the results are bigger than we might have imagined.
PERU’S CORDILLERA BLANCA AND MACHU PICCHU VIA INCA TRAIL: FEB. 18
The Mazama Expedition Committee provided a climbing grant to Keith Daellenbach and his father Chuck to climb Nevada Pisco Oeste (18,872 ft.) in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. They climbed high into the range in July 2014 reaching high camp at 16,200 ft. surrounded by spectacular 6,000 m peaks. While they were ultimately unable to reach the summit, they had a fantastic time exploring the high Andes together. The climb was preceded by an adventure that included Keith’s wife, Amy, eight-year-old son, Micah, and mother, Faye. They hiked four days over a 13,800 ft. pass on the 24-mile Inca Trail into Machu Picchu, had a home stay in the remote village of Ccamahuara near Cusco with a Peruvian family and explored the Spanish colonial capital, Lima. By sharing their lives, land, food and culture, new Peruvian friends taught the Daellenbach family something about themselves they will always treasure. Viva Peru!
HIMALAYAN DREAMS: THE QUEST FOR KUMARI: FEB. 25
Photographer Peter Marbach volunteered on a humanitarian expedition to the remote Himalayan village of Kumari to document the amazing life story of trekking guide Jagat Lama. Jagat’s rise from poverty and his heroic efforts to bring health care, education, and a women’s skills center to his village will be featured in the upcoming film Kumari: The Jagat Lama Story. Marbach will share stories and images of village life in Kumari, the colorful chaos of Kathmandu, the unspeakable beauty of the Himalayas and his own healing journey en route to Everest. Peter has co-authored five coffee table books and produced several of the iconic Mt. Hood Jazz Festival commemorative posters. His work and story of healing was featured on Oregon Field Guide in October 2014.
FEBRUARY 2015 15
Where To Ice Climb? Exciting destinations for ice climbing in Canada and Montana. by Heather Campbell BEAR SPIRIT, BANFF NATIONAL PARK, ALBERTA ▶▶ A beautiful and isolated spot with single pitch WI3–WI5 and some mixed, easy walk to the top, trees for anchors ▶▶ A quick 20-minute drive from Canmore, first exit upon entering Banff National Park headed west. ▶▶ One hour approach following a creek, with a few bouldering moves and ice step (ropes provided). ▶▶ Many thanks to the staff at Valhalla Pure Outfitters in downtown Canmore for providing the beta on this unfrequented spot. JOHNSTON CANYON, BANFF NATIONAL PARK, ALBERTA ▶▶ Modern day approach. Flush toilets in the parking lot, engineered “ice walk” to all climbing areas. 45-minute drive from Canmore. 30-minute easy approach. ▶▶ Stunning approach through a narrow canyon in spots. ▶▶ WI2–WI6, lead only. ▶▶ Walkway ends in a bowl with many pillars to climb (when conditions are right). ▶▶ Guaranteed 15 minutes of fame. Be prepared to be photographed, videoed and receive applause. ▶▶ Sun hits this area mid-day, watch for falling daggers and pillars. HAFFNER CREEK, KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK, BRITISH COLUMBIA ▶▶ Perfect spot for beginner and intermediate climbers. WI2M9, lead only. Get there early, very popular area. ▶▶ Located on the Radium Highway #93, about an hour drive from Canmore. ▶▶ Park on the east side of the highway and cross highway to the obvious path through the snow. ▶▶ Easy 30-minute walk-in.
Backing Image: Heather Campbell and Elisabeth Bowers, Bear Spirit, Banff National Park, Alberta. Inset: Elisabeth Bowers belaying Heather Campbell in Haffner Creek, Kootenay National Park, British Columbia. Photos: Jeremy Cogdill.
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by Scott Peterson HYALITE CANYON, BOZEMAN MONTANA Drive time to Hyalite is about 12 hours via mostly Interstate I-84 and I-90. If you don’t hit any serious weather or road conditions. I personally take chains to drive my front wheel drive car into and out of Hyalite Canyon. Good studded snow tires my suffice. Bring a shovel and be ready to drive slowly in the canyon. Don’t mind others that drive fast. Better to drive safely and make it to and from the climbs. The canyon is 12 miles long so be patient and be prepared.
▶▶ The climbs range from WI2–WI5 and 6. There are many climbs in the WI3 to WI4 range. ▶▶ Genesis area is one place a top rope can be set up without leading. But be carful. The locals are super friendly and it is easy enough to get a ride one some else’s rope to get to the top to set up a top rope if you don’t want to lead. ▶▶ The Arena Area is a place I warm up to lead ice. We start with Switchback Falls and Fat Chance. Both are WI3. Then there is Thin Chance WI4. Someone is always top roping that one. So it’s easy to get a ride. ▶▶ To lead at Hyalite I would have at least 8 ice screws. 12 cm to 19 cm. No need for a lot of stubby ones. ▶▶ The ice is normally great. And if avalanche danger is high. You can still climb Dribbles, but nothing left or right if that. Or stay on the other side of the canyon in The Un-Named wall or Twinfalls area.
Left: Scott Peterson leading Elevator Shaft. Photo: Rick McDonald. Right: Dustin Fric on The Scepter. He is a recent recipient of a Mazama Expedition grant (read his article on page 8). Photo: Rick McDonald.
FEBRUARY 2015 17
CLASSIC MAZAMAS
Stay Connected with Classics With 25 years or more of Mazama membership, or those who prever a more leisurely pace, Classics lead a variety of year-round activities at a relaxed and flexible pace. All ages are welcome to join the fun. LEADING EVENTS IN MARCH If you are interested in leading an event in March, please contact Rose Marie Gilbert at gilbertrosemarie@centurylink.net or 503762-2357, Dick Miller at 503-590-3598, or Lanning Russell at lanning616@gmail.com or 503-775-1164 by Feb. 12 for inclusion in the March Bulletin. MON., FEB. 2, MULTNOMAH FALLS TO WAHKEENA FALLS SNOWSHOE OR HIKE This approximately 5 mile snowshoe or hike will be at a leisurely pace with an early lunch at the 4-way trail junction. David will have a stove for heating water, if anyone wants coffee, tea, hot chocolate or soup with his or her lunch. Contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail. com regarding meeting time. The hike will be rescheduled if it is raining or snowing, or changed if the connector trail is not yet open. WED. FEB. 4: PRE-PROGRAM POTLUCK DESSERT, 6:15 PM AT THE MMC. Come meet downstairs in front of the library for coffee or tea and dessert before the Osaki’s 7 p.m. program on hiking in Japan. Coffee and tea will be provided; please bring cookies or another dessert to share.
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MONDAY, FEB. 16: WHITE RIVER CANYON SNOWSHOE Contact David Christopher at David.R.Christopher@gmail.com for details.
THURS., FEB. 26, 1:30 P.M.: VISIT THE OREGON RAIL HERITAGE CENTER Tour the Oregon Rail Heritage Center, 2250 SE Water Ave. (just east of OMSI). Plan on meeting in the Rail Heritage Center’s paved parking lot under the MLK/Ore. 99E viaduct at the corner of SE Caruthers St. and SE Grand Ave. Their parking lot is located one block south and one block east of the rail museum and is free for museum visitors. Public transportation is also available via the East Side Portland Streetcar, OMSI/SE Water stop. Portland’s rail museum houses three steam locomotives owned by the City of Portland: Southern Pacific 4449, Spokane, Portland, and Seattle 700, and Oregon Railroad and Navigation Co. 197, as
well as other exhibits. Afterwards, if the weather permits, take a walk along the East Esplanade. Please RSVP with Hal Howard at commerce@thehowardspdx.com or 503-2931528 so the museum’s staff knows how many to expect. ANTICIPATED MARCH AND APRIL DATES FROM DAVID CHRISTOPHER. ▶▶ Mon, Mar. 2: Eagle Creek High Bridge Out/Back Hike ▶▶ Mon. Mar. 16: Salmon River Viewpoint Out/Back Hike ▶▶ Mon. Apr. 6: Dog Mountain Loop Hike ▶▶ David Christopher would like to plan a 5-day backpack: Circle South Sister, Sept.28 –Oct. 2. He needs indications of interest by March 1. Please contact him: David.R.Christopher@gmail.com STAY PLUGGED IN TO CLASSIC MAZAMAS: Would you like some help to make it a little easier to access the Bulletin? Do you need some special transportation or other accommodation to bring you within reach of participating in a Mazamas activity? Call or leave a message with Kati Mayfield, Mazamas Volunteer Manager, at 503-2272345. Arrangements can be made for a volunteer to call you and read you the Bulletin, get you to the MMC on time, or otherwise close the circle. Stay plugged in.
MAZAMA FAMILIES
Families Committee Strategic Plan Adopted Mazama Families have big plans for the years to come! During their November 2014 meeting the Families Committee adopted a five-year strategic plan that will guide its development and activities through 2018–2019. Patterned on the club-wide strategic plan, the Families Committee strategic plan is directly aligned with club goals. Highlights of the Families Committee plan include specific targets related to the following strategies: ▶▶ Increase the number of hikes, alpine climbs, and non-alpine climbs led by Families Committee leaders each year
▶▶ Coordinate with Trails Trips Committee and Climb Committee to encourage leaders to provide an increased number of hikes and alpine climbs each year ▶▶ Develop and conduct a four-year series of families mountaineering courses (FM101, FM201, FM301, and FM401) ▶▶ Increase the number of family backpacking trips each year ▶▶ Increase the number of winter activities each year ▶▶ Ensure that infrastructure is in place to support and
Portland’s premier shop on the East Side.
sustain the committee and its activities ▶▶ Ensure ongoing succession planning There are many ways that you can participate in implementing these strategies. If you are already a hike or climb leader, please consider leading a families hike or climb. If you are interested in becoming a hike or climb leader, contact us for information about doing so. If you would like to participate in our exciting activities, visit our web page for information about upcoming events. You can also join our mailing list and receive our newsletter, contribute ideas, and be in touch by emailing families@mazamas. org. Excelsior!
UPCOMING FAMILY ACTIVITIES MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16—HIKE: WAUNA VIEWPOINT FROM EAGLE CREEK ▶▶ Climb 1050 ft. in just over a mile to a great view of Bonneville Dam, the Bridge of the Gods, and Table Mountain. On this Presidents’ Day holiday, a Northwest Forest Pass is not required to do the hike. Bill Stein, hike leader. 3.6 miles, 1050 ft elevation gain. All who can complete the hike in 2-3 hours are welcome, including parents
backpacking their kids. $2 per person, $5 max per family. Please register at: tinyurl.com/WaunaViewpoint-Feb-16-2015 SUNDAY, FEB. 22—NORDIC SKI DAY: MT. HOOD MEADOWS ▶▶ Come enjoy a day of Nordic skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows. We have obtained group discounts on the track fee, gear rental, and lessons, with a minimum of 15 attendees. Registration deadline: Feb. 16. Coordinator: Eric Einspruch. Details available at http://tinyurl.com/ Meadows-Jan-Feb FRIDAY, FEB. 27—FAMILY FRIDAY AT MAZAMA LODGE ▶▶ Lodging is free for kids 12 and under, if they are Mazama members. Mazama Hill will be groomed for sledding; the hill lights will stay on until 10 p.m. For more information on rates and to register for a stay at the Lodge, please visit: mazamas.org/lodge For information on other upcoming Families activities, please visit mazamafamilies. org. See you soon—kids are welcome!
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Portland, OR Hours: M-F 10-7 SAT 10-6 SUN 12-5 503-227-1038
FEBRUARY 2015 19
20S & 30S MAZAMAS
Climbing, Hiking and More! The 20s and 30s Mazamas lead activities year-round targeting those in their 20s and 30s along with anyone who is “young at heart.” All activities are open to everyone. Opportunities abound for outdoor fun in the winter, and it is the perfect time to try out a climb night! Join the 20s and 30s Mazamas on a hike this month, come to the pub night for a pint, and sign up soon if you are interested in the Yurt Weekend! SATURDAY, FEB. 14—HIKE: SPIT ON YOUR SWEETHEART— VALENTINE’S DAY HIKE ON BAYOCEAN SPIT Feel the need for some coastal walking? This lovely hike along the beach features the ruins of a coastal town, a long stretch of very quiet beach and some excellent views across to towns along the coastline. Well-behaved, leashed, dogs are welcome (please contact leader in advance if you plan to bring a dog). We’ll stop at the Tillamook Cheese Factory on the way back to make the day complete. 7 miles, 0 feet elevation gain. Drive: 148. Depart: 8 a.m. from Sunset Transit Center. Leader: Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org SUNDAY FEBRUARY 15, 2015—HIKE: EAGLE CREEK TO TUNNEL FALLS. Advanced Email Sign-up Required Limit 12 People This hike in the Columbia River Gorge enters the Hatfield Wilderness. Hike along the Eagle Creek Trail to Tunnel Falls. Exploratory. Hike: 12 miles total with about 1,640 feet elevation gain. Expect to hike 2+ MPH. Drive 80 miles round trip. Trip fee: $2/$3 members/ non-members. NW Forest Pass required. Meet at 8 a.m. at Gateway Transit Center, NW corner of the parking garage. Leader: Hal Paver. Email the 20 MAZAMA BULLETIN
leader to sign-up: halpaver@ halpaver.com MONDAY, FEB. 16—PUB NIGHT: GREEN DRAGON Join us on Feb. 16 at 7 p.m. for our roaming Pub Night! This month we’ll be at Green Dragon, 928 SE 9th Ave. Come join us for an evening of new friends, adventure planning, and malted beverages! This is also a great time to find out what we’re up to, plan your next adventure, and see what the Mazamas are all about in a more informal atmosphere. Bring your stories and photos from your recent adventures. How will you find us? Look for the ice axe! FRI-SUN, MARCH 6–8: DEVIL’S LAKE YURT WEEKEND Enjoy beaches, rocky shorelines and booming winter surf on a weekend trip to one of the best parts of the Oregon coast. We’ll be “roughing” it in yurts equipped with heat, lights and electricity at the Devil’s Lake State Park. We’ll head down Friday evening and spend the weekend hiking various trails in the area—area highlights include sea stacks and tidepools, huge meadows overlooking the rugged coastline, glorious old growth, and a perhaps a brew pub or two! $20 members /$30 nonmembers; includes the yurt fee for Friday and Saturday night. Advance sign-up required; group limited to twelve. Detailed prospectus will be sent to participants. Leaders: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com) and Karl Langenwalter (klangen@gmail. com)
CLIMB NIGHTS ClubSport Oregon (18120 SW Lower Boones Ferry Rd, Tigard)
▶▶ When: First Monday of the month, 6:30–10 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $12/person, kids under 18 climb for $10; harness for $5, rock shoes for $6, or $9 for both. Where: Planet Granite (1405 NW 14th Ave)
▶▶ When: Third Wednesday of the month, 6:30–10 p.m. ▶▶ Cost: $18/person; harness and shoe rental available at additional cost. Ready to get more involved with 20s and 30s Mazamas? We are looking for Climb Night Hosts and Hike Leaders: CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS Indoor rock climbing is held once-a-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. HIKE LEADERS Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running! Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps—become a Mazama Member, lead a provisional activity & get First Aid certified.
Winter Climbing with Mazamas The winter climb sseason at Mazamas runs from December– April. You can find the winter climb schedule and details about winter climb procedures at: mazamas. org/activities-events/winter-climbschedule/ You’ll find two types of entries on the climb schedule: ▶▶ A planned climb ▶▶ A scheduled climb PLANNED CLIMBS There is a planned month for the climb. The climb leader is planning to lead the climb during the month and will be watching the weather to find an optimal time to schedule the climb. SCHEDULED CLIMBS These climbs have dates listed.
For Planned Climbs, email or call the climb leader and let them know you are interested in the climb. Then wait for an email or call from the climb leader indicating the climb has been scheduled. For Scheduled Climbs, mail a climb card to the climb leader. Happy Climbing!
MAZAMA LODGE NEWS
Plan your Lodge Visit There are plenty of activities to choose from at Mazama Lodge this winter. Start planning now.
Manager: Charles Barker Caretakers: Aaron & Brett 503-272-9214, mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
Just like last year our winter has been arriving late. February has proven to be a great month for winter activities at the lodge. We will be open all day on Presidents Day, Monday, Feb. 16, closing at noon on Tuesday, Feb. 17. If you are planning a spring break vacation at the lodge we will be open the week of March 23. Saturday, March 28 the lodge will be hosting an evening program with 27-yearold mountain climber Linsey Warren who is the youngest climber to reach the 100 highest peaks in Washington State. Linsey will speak from 7:30–8:30 p.m. for this free program. If you have not yet experienced some of Aaron ‘s Amazing French Toast, every Sunday through the month of February, Aaron, the lodge caretaker, will serve his own homemade Challah French Toast, garnished with fresh lemon and powdered sugar. Lodge Chairman Bob Stayton will host a evening program at Mazama Lodge, May 17 (Eve of the eruption of Mount St. Helens). Dinner will begin at 5 p.m. with an evening program from 6–7 p.m. as we remember the 35th anniversary of the eruption of Mt. St. Helens. Bob has a long history with summers at Spirit Lake in the 1950s, 60s, and 70s. Anyone with pre-eruption photos of Mt. St Helens is invited to share their stories at the lodge. Please contact lodge chairman Bob Stayton at 503-799-0785 or by email rstayton@ comcast.net. Reminder: If you rent a locker and and have not made your yearly payment, please send your $25 to Mazama Lodge, PO Box 87, Government Camp, OR 97029 (please include your locker number).
SAVE THE DATES!
NORTH COAST CLASSIC HIKER GETAWAY AUGUST 10–14 2015 Five days of relaxed pace hiking in the north coast area including planned hikes of Neahkanie Mt., Tillamook Head, Fort to Sea, Astoria River Walk, and Saddle Mt. There will be no trip meeting beforehand, but we will meet at the trailhead for each hike. Hikes will be listed in the Bulletin under Trail Trips. For those who may want to stay in the area, Fort Stevens State Park will be the leaders base. It is a popular campground so early reservations are recommended. For more information Ray Sheldon at rbshldn@pacifier.com.
Top: Jim Craig, Mazama member since 1954 is joined by his daughter Ellen and granddaughter Beth. Jim helped install our lodge furnace back in 1960. Jim conceded that at age 93 he turned around on a summer climb with Ray Sheldon—“For the first time my body just gave out on me.” But he still makes the hike up to the lodge with ease! Photo: Charles Barker. Bottom: Guest speaker Linsey Warren will speak at the Lodge on Saturday, March 28 at 7:30 p.m.
FEBRUARY 2015 21
OUTINGS—LOCAL, NATIONAL, INTERNATIONAL
Go Exploring in 2015! The Mazamas regularly lead outings, both foreign and domestic, for members and nonmembers to experience other cultures, ecosystems, mountain ranges, and the natural world in a safe and affordable manner. SPRINGTIME IN SEDONA March 14–21
Experience hiking amongst soaring Red Rock monoliths, vortices and Indian ruins. Spend a week in the greater Sedona, Arizona area with 6 days of day hikes and a mid-week break to visit ancient pueblo ruins, ghost towns and art galleries. Both A & B hikes will be offered with a variety of terrain. Escape the rainy northwest and enjoy the high desert with over 300 days of sunshine, average temperatures in the 60s and cold nights with star filled skies. Costs include 8 nights lodging at a moderate hotel with continental breakfast (double occupancy). Not included are transportation, lunch and dinner. Air costs run $280+. Participants are encouraged to share car rentals and gas. Costs $433–$489 for members, depending on number of participants. Registration deadline Feb. 21, 2015. Contact Rex Breunsbach, rbreunsbach@ecd. com and Marilyn Zigler, mszhike@gmail.com.
NORTH TO ALASKA OUTING March 21–29
Travel to Talkeetna, Alaska and enjoy a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. Fly to Anchorage and, after one night in Anchorage, use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. At Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for XC skiing, snowshoeing, aurorawatching, learning about dog mushing, photography, meeting locals, learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaskan Range. Basic costs for airfare to and from Portland, vehicle rental, most food and lodging is around $1,200. Equipment rental if needed ~ $75; dog mushing sled ride ~ $75; scenic Denali flight and Ruth Gorge landing ~ $300. Outing deposit is $550. If interested contact leader Tom Bennett, 22 MAZAMA BULLETIN
nordlys_2@yahoo.com. Please let us know why you want to participate and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.
OLYMPICS NATIONAL PARK HIKING June 20–27: Full—Alternates Only
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
HIKING NORWAY’S WESTERN FJORDLAND July 22–Aug. 2: Full—Waiting List
See the December 2014 Mazama Bulletin for full details.
CHAMONIX—MT. BLANC ALPINE CLIMBING July 11–27
Nestled near the border of Switzerland, Italy and France, lies the birthplace of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, France. We’ll be there during the peak alpine climbing season. This will be a strenuous outing with daily climbing opportunities. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) graduates or equivalent (Advanced school graduates or equivalent preferred). Most climbs involve following pitches of 5th class terrain and/or WI2+. Participants should have a good fitness level as a large portion of the alpine climbs start at 11,000 feet. Outing cost will be $2,200 per person, airfare to Geneva not included. Costs include round trip transportation from Geneva to/from Chamonix and all lodging and transportation within the Chamonix-Mt. Blanc area for 15 days (nearly all lifts, gondolas, trains and cable cars are included). Food cost, hut fees and the Midi-Hellbronner gondola not included. For full details go to the website. Contact leader Lee Davis, lee@mazamas.org or assistant leader,Lisa Brady, pdxlisa@gmail. com, for more information.
OREGON COAST HIKING August 10–16
Based out of South Beach State Park, we will hike approximately 60 miles of the Oregon Coast Trail south from Lincoln Beach. We will use car shuttles to connect the segments of the trail. Other hikes in the area may also be offered. Hikers wanting a break can also visit local attractions such as the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Participants are responsible for making their own transportation, lodging/camping arrangements, and meals; and can come for fewer than seven days if they wish. Outing cost will range from $90–$145 depending on the number of participants. A $100 deposit is required with sign-up by July 15, 2015. (Participants should make site reservations ASAP if they are planning to stay at South Beach SP.) Contact leader Joe Whittington, joewhittington@gmail.com , or assistant leader Skip Smith, bs_as3457@yahoo.com, for more details.
JOHN MUIR TRAIL TREK
Aug. 28–Sep. 10: Full—Alternates Only See the January 2015 Mazama Bulletin or our website for full details. Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www. seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club— www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www. outdoors.org and the American Alpine Club—www. americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for Leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the Leader and Assistant Leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
MAZAMA AFFILIATE OUTINGS HUT-TO-HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA July 31–Aug. 9, 2015
There will be an informational meeting at the MMC on March 5 at 7 p.m. The coolest place you never knew you wanted to go! In partnership with Mountain Hiking Holidays: Join us on a challenging and memorable “hut to hut” adventure in the high Carpathians of central Romania, also known as the Transylvanian Alps. Complete an exciting multi-day traverse along the main ridge of the Făgăraş Mountains-one of the longest continuous high mountain traverses in Europe. The traverse will take you over Romania’s three highest peaks (Moldoveanu, 8,350 feet; Negoiu, 8,317 feet; and Viştea Mare, 8,291 feet). Round out your Romania adventure with visits to the splendid medieval town of Sighisoara (a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site), and a sampling of Transylvania’s treasury of castles, monasteries, and fortified Saxon churches. Trip price: $3,595. More details: http://www. mountainhikingholidays.com/romania_hut-to-hut.htm Contact: info@mountainhikingholidays.com
ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TREKKING TOUR Oct. 26–Nov. 13, 2015
Every trekker’s dream trip in the heart of the Himalaya. In partnership with Embark Adventures: Journey with us to a place that will be physically, emotionally, and mentally compelling. From jungle to Tibetan plateau you’ll trek 13 days from Pokhara to Annapurna Base Camp via the amazing remote valley locked deep in the heart of the Annapurna range; all the while encountering the amazing Nepali people. This trek begins at the awe-inspiring lake city of Pokhara. You’ll travel on foot through several iconic villages, including Thakali, Magar and Gurung; coming to rest finally at Annapurna Base camp, elevation 13,800 feet. The trip is 19 days and includes time in Kathmandu, Pokhara. $2995. Contact Donovan@Embarkadventures.com. Trip leader: Jim Ronning, Mazama member. FEBRUARY 2015 23
Ice Climbing in Ouray, Colorado by Wim Aarts The Ouray Ice Park has been visited by many Mazamas, through an organized annual group trip (since 1999), in their own groups, and even solo. The group trip was originally set up as an opportunity for Advanced Snow and Ice graduates to practice their newly learned skills from the beginning ice climbing portion of the class. Through the years more and more people have been taking advantage of the annual trip—one year there were 40 particpants! HISTORY OF MAZAMAS IN OURAY During our visit we had an opportunity to meet with Mike MacLeod, a member of the board of directors of the Ouray Ice Park. We learned a bit about the history of the park and the impression the ice park personnel have about the Mazamas. Mike said over the years the ice park personnel have been very impressed with Mazama visitors and only have positive things to report. The year of the large group they were extremely impressed with the behavior of the Mazama teams. Mike’s impression is that the Mazamas is the organization with the most visible presence in the ice park. Our meeting took place at one of Ouray’s local attractions, Mouse’s Chocolate and 24 MAZAMA BULLETIN
coffee shop. Mouse’s is another must visit if in Ouray. Their coffee’s and their chocolate specialties are out of this world. In the last 3-4 years the trend has been that Mazama members are splitting off and travelling to Ouray in their own smaller groups, or visiting other ice climbing destinations such as Hyalite in Montana, Cody in Wyoming or Canmore, Alberta. This means less crowding during the one week, however overall we are seeing more Mazamas in Ouray. HOW IT WORKS The ice park started on the initiative of local ice climbers, who were climbing on ice formed by water leaking from the penstock and the Ouray water supply into the Uncompaghre Gorge. From these primitive beginnings an elaborate network of water supply pipes, delivery piping and sprayheads has evolved. Mike told us how the Ouray Ice Park is set up currently. In 2010 the city of Ouray bought 24 acres of land adjacent to the Uncompaghre Gorge from the forest service. Some of the ice park, around the South Park climbing area, is owned by the owner of the hydropower plant fed by the huge penstock running along the gorge and through the park; the other part is owned by the county of Ouray. The board of the ice park runs the ice park for the city and the county. The ice park has one full-time year-round employee—the chief ice maker. During the season from October through April, two full-time ice
makers and one admin are added to the payroll. Considering the many shower heads that need to be activated, thawed and turned on every evening, the cleaning of off snow and other work to be done, the ice park is running very lean. All proceeds from the ice park membership go directly to the ice park (an annual membership is $40). This just covers 30 percent of the park’s operating costs. Another big chunk of income is from sponsors of the annual Ouray Ice Fest, which is held around the 2nd weekend of January and just celebrated its 20th year! On our visit this year, two $40 ice park memberships reduced our hotel bill at the Box Canyon Lodge by $150. Membership wasn’t only worthwhile in that respect, but a whole week of top rope ice climbing for $40 seems like a good deal considering the cost of a climbing gym membership. Mike further told us that the count of climbers in the ice park adds up to 12,000-14,000 park visitor days per season. You will find anywhere from 100 to 200 people climbing ice in the park each day during the opening month from late December through March. WHAT IS THE ATTRACTION OF THE OURAY ICE PARK? There are a couple of them that are clear and obvious. One of them is the amazing infrastructure of some 200 top rope ice climbs, from WI2 to WI6, mixed rock (dry tooling) and ice climbs and a handful of lead routes. All of that in a mile long part of the Box Canyon. A huge plus for many
The Ouray Ice Park has an amazing infrastructure of some 200 top rope ice climbs, from WI2 to WI6, mixed rock (dry tooling) and ice climbs and a handful of lead routes. All of that in a mile long part of the Box Canyon.
From left to right: Tyler Bax super stoked to tackle the ice in the Schoolroom. Photo: Laura Bax. Laura Bax learning the ropes in South Park (this was her first day on ice!). Photo: Tyler Bax. Wim Aarts—always the teacher— giving his wife Anna-Maria a few pointers. Photo: Tyler Bax. Adam Nawrot belaying a climber in the Schoolroom. Photo: Tyler Bax. Background image: Tyler Bax enjoying early season ice in Ouray Ice Park. Photo: Laura Bax.
of us is the Box Canyon Lodge. Close to the entrance of the north end of the Box Canyon, the furthest climb in South Park is a 30 min walk. The friendly service and the natural hot springs on the hotel grounds, make this a favorite destination. Other hotels are plentiful and groups of climbers have rented apartments or houses. We have stayed in a B&B and enjoyed the luxurious breakfast and stories of Ouray and the surrounding area from the host. Another plus is that Ouray is the home base of San Juan Mountain Guides, the main guiding concessionaire in the park. Instruction or guided ice climbing in the area is readily available and easy to organize. Within one and a half to two hours of driving from Ouray there are many opportunities to go ice climbing as well. With the excellent conditions and trip reports by San Juan Mountain Guides (SJMG), posted on their blog, and a topnotch avalanche forecast center, you can be as well-prepared as you could possibly imagine to attack these routes. Many Mazamas who have travelled to Ouray have participated in one or more teaching sessions with SJMG and appreciate the professionalism and depth of knowledge the guides bring to the job, as well as a healthy dose of patience. And then there is the town of Ouray, with about 800 permanent inhabitants, a good selection of lodging and a good variety of
restaurant choices. The town lives off of ice climbing in the winter season and is welcoming and friendly. Prices are reasonable, portions fill up the hungriest of ice climbers and the atmosphere is mostly cordial. GETTING TO OURAY You have the choice of driving or flying. It takes about 18-20 hours to drive to Ouray from Portland. It can be done in a long day, or you can spend the night in or around Salt Lake City, Utah to make it to Ouray the next day by early afternoon, after buying groceries for the week in the Montrose City Market. Flying is the other alternative, with flights available to Grand Junction, Montrose, or even as far as Denver. You are of course more limited with luggage on planes, unless money is not too much of an issue. Both flying and driving in January can be an adventure as the weather can wreak havoc on roads as well as on flight traffic. When we arrived in Montrose this year to fly back to Denver for our Portland connecting flight we were told this was the first regular flight in three days, due to
weather cancellations. It is winter after all, and the icy medium we are so excited to climb on can create trouble when traveling. Another advantage of the ice park is the avalanche safety during these periods of instability. This was my sixth time going to Ouray and I was prepared to leave the park and lead some of the natural ice around the area. However, we encountered a somewhat unusual snowpack for this area: two layers of snow, thicker than usual on top of hoar frost layers elevated the avalanche warning level during the week we were in town. We ended up climbing 6 full days in the park, practicing lead climbing in the South Park area and getting our full “dose” of ice laps in for the time being. Now we just need the Columbia Gorge to freeze over and apply our newly found practice at home.
Wim Aarts is a long-time Mazama climb leader and instructor. He has coordinated the ASI program, Ski Mountaineering, and assisted with ICS over the years. FEBRUARY 2015 25
Used Equipment Sale 2015 It’s Almost Here!
FRIDAY, MARCH 20, 2015 ▶▶ 5–6 p.m.: Sale for Mazama members and students in climb classes ▶▶ 6–9 p.m.: Sale open to the general public ▶▶ Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center (MMC) - SE 43 Ave. and Stark Street WHAT DO WE SELL AND WHAT MIGHT YOU FIND? EVERYTHING IN HIKING, CAMPING, MOUNTAINEERING AND XC SKIING FROM A TO Z! Axes. Backpacks, Books, Boots and Belay Devices. Carabiners and Crampons. Daisy Chains. Essentials—All 10 of ‘Em. Fleece and Friends, Gortex®, Gloves and Gaiters. Hats. Ice Tools. Jackets. Knives. Lockers and Liners. Mittens. Nalgene® Bottles. Overmitts. Polypro, Pads and Parkas. Quick Draws. Rain Gear. Snowshoes and Stoves. Sleeping Bags. Shovels. Trekking Poles and Tents. Underwear. Vests. Wands and Water Filters, XC (no Downhill) Skis, Poles and Boots. Yaktrax®. Zipper pulls ... and More! WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO SELL SOME GEAR? ▶▶ Set reasonable (low) prices for saleable equipment or clothing you aren’t using or have upgraded reasonably and it will sell; you’ll keep 70 percent of all proceeds. ▶▶ Please make sure your items for sale are clean and have some usable life left in them. ▶▶ Pick up sale tags and affix them to all of your sale items. Tags, tally sheets & seller info sheets are available at the MMC during normal business hours. It is
strongly advised that you tag your items prior to dropping them off at the MMC the day before the sale. ▶▶ Mark your calendars for Thursday, March 19 from 4 to 8 pm. That is when you can drop off items for the sale. (Tags, tally sheets & seller info sheets will still be available in the MMC lobby, but things will be very hectic). Untagged items will be treated as donations. ▶▶ Pick up your unsold items Saturday. March 21 between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. All unclaimed items will be donated to charity. WHAT SHOULD YOU DO IF YOU’D LIKE TO BUY SOME GEAR? ▶▶ Mark your calendars for Friday, March 20 ▶▶ Plan to come early for best selection. ▶▶ Mazamas accepts cash, checks or Visa®/ MasterCard®.
WARM CLOTHING COLLECTION We are collecting warm clothing for Fish Emergency Services to distribute to Portland’s needy. To donate items, please drop them off at the MMC on Wednesday, March 18. VOLUNTEERS We still need volunteers for the event. You can sign up here to help on Thursday, March 19 for check in, at the event on Friday, March 20 or on Saturday, March 21 for cleanup: https://sites.google.com/site/ uesmazama/ WHO IS ORGANIZING THE USED EQUIPMENT SALE (UES) AND CAN ANSWER QUESTIONS? Contact: Meg Linza at ues@mazamas.org. For more information go to the Mazamas website. mazamas.org/event-calendar/ event/1913/2015-03-20/
Informational Gathering
Yoga Alignment
Mazama Affiliate Outing with Mountain Hiking Holidays Thursday, March 5 at 7p.m.
Focus
Meet John Osaki, of Mountain Hiking Holidays and a Mazama member, who will introduce you to this amazing high country traverse. John has completed the traverse twice and will share insights about the route, lodgings, and the unique charms of hiking in Romania! Questions are welcome.
Joy of movement
Eugene Lewins LMT 16438
26 MAZAMA BULLETIN
HUT TO HUT TRAVERSE OF THE TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS IN ROMANIA
YogaWithEugene.com 503-939-9657
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Donald W. Benedict, formerly of Sacramento, passed away on Jan. 3, 2015. Don worked 28 years for the Office of the Legislative Analyst. He was in charge of formulating the budgets for state resources. Projects included the Central Valley Water Project, the renovation of Cal Expo and the establishment of the CA State Railroad Museum. He received commendations from the CA Legislature for his work. Don was born May 10, 1922 in Mt. Vernon, WA. He graduated from the Univ. of Washington in 1943 and obtained a Masters degree in Public Administration from Wayne State in Michigan. During WWII he served with the U.S. Army Infantry in the Philippines. He worked for the Bonneville Power Admin in OR before starting with the Legislative Analyst’s Office. Don married his wife, Verna, in 1954 and they moved to the South Land Park area of Sacramento. Don designed and constructed the house in which they lived for 45 years, raising 4 children. They moved to Eskaton Village Carmichael in 2003. He enjoyed tending his large garden of fruits, vegetables and ornamental plants. Don was an active mountain climber and a lifelong member of the Mazamas mountaineering club. He was an avid dancer, teaching folk, square and polka dancing, and was an active member and past President of the Sacramento Polka Boosters. Don is survived by his wife Verna, his children Debra (Steve), Susan, Anita and Rusty (Lisa), and his granddaughters Emma and Becca. At Don’s request there will be no formal service. Donations may be made to the charity of the donor’s choice. Donald was the 61st person to be awarded the Sixteen Major Northwest Peaks Award which he received in 1955. He was a lifetime member of the Mazamas.
members
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May 10, 1922–January 3, 2015
Michael Austin, Mt. St. Helens Andrea Bailey, Mt. Adams Michelle Bailie, Mt. St. Helens David Baumgarten, South Sister Matthew Bell, Mt. Shasta Brody Boeger, Mt. St. Helens Jeff Caron, Mt. Hood John Paul Castiaux, Mt. St. Helens Susan Choi, Mt. St. Helens Zach Clanton, Mt. Baker Molly Conroy, South Sister Eric Crowley, Mt. Hood Mahesh Dasarath, South Sister Eric Dattoli, South Sister Anna Dearman, Mt. Adams James Dearman, Mt. Adams Luca Einspruch, South Sister Thomas Eriksen, Mt. Adams Samantha Gast, South Sister Thomas Gradt, South Sister Abbie Harms, Blackerby, AK Brook Harris, Mt. Hood Jason Havelka, Mt. Shasta Katrina Hoch, Mt. St. Helens Noah Hurd, Mt. Adams Alyssa Hursh, South Sister Andrew Kahut, Mt. St. Helens Jordan Kahut, Mt. St. Helens Sandra Kahut, Mt. St. Helens Kim Kopowski, Mt. St. Helens Kristina Kucinka, Mt. Shasta Ben Lepp, Mt. Glittertind, Norway Lisa Luna, Mt. Hood Kevin Lyons, Blackerby, AK Ryan Maher, Middle Sister Jan Martens, South Sister Heidi Medema, Mt. St. Helens Shanon Meehan, Mt. Hood George Mencure, Mt. Shasta Edward Morell, Mt. Hood Aivy Nguyen, Mt. Hood Carianne Nieuwstraten, Mt. Hood Jake Norton, Mt. St. Helens Maggie, O’Brien, Mt. Denali Rob Petros, Mt. Thielsen Eva Pomikacsek, South Sister Del Profitt, Mt. Adams Lindsay Perlen, Mt. St. Helens Danielle Reyes-Acosta, Lonquimay, Chile Joshua Richards, Grand Teton Julie Rosenberg, South Sister Donny Roush, Mt. Rainier
Dec.
DONALD W. BENEDICT
Welcome New Mazamas!
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Devoted husband, father, and friend Jack passed away peacefully at home on January 5th with his family at his side. With his engineering and finance background Jack enjoyed a long career at Tektronix, and loved to tinker with everything from computers to cars. Jack’s passion in life was the mountain. He scaled Mt. Hood at age 16, joined the Mazamas in 1944, and climbed many other peaks of the Cascades. He had a life-long love of skiing from an early age, and in the 1950s built a cabin in Government Camp, which stands today as his pride and joy. He helped many ski enthusiasts become instructors as the Technical Director of the Ski Bowl Ski School and furthered their careers as the Vice President of Certification of the (then) Pacific Northwest Ski Instructors Association. After retiring from teaching, Jack served as a member of the Mt. Hood Ski Patrol. As a life-long member of the Schnee Vogeli Ski Club Jack shared his passion for skiing at Mt. Hood, and at resorts such as Sun Valley, with many close friends. Jack is survived by his wife Mary, daughter Lynn (son-in-law Tod), brother Don (wife Shirley) and step-daughters Adonica (husband Tim) and Carinda, and family grandchildren Fallon and Gage, all in the Portland region. He was preceded in death by his first wife Joan. A celebration of his life will take place on Wednesday, January 28 at 4 pm at Westminster Presbyterian Church (1624 NE Hancock, Portland). A mountain gathering will take place on Saturday evening, April 11 at the Mt. Hood Cultural Center and Museum in Government Camp. Memorial contributions can be made to the Mazamas, Jack Weigand Memorial Fund at www.mazamas.org or the National Disabled Veterans Winter Sports Clinic through teresa.parks@va.gov or www.wintersportsclinic.org.
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March 9, 1928–January 5, 2015
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JOHN (JACK) RAYMOND WEIGAND
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Obituaries
MEMBERSHIP REPORT
Cody Shotola-Schiewe, Mt. hood Jennifer Starr, South Sister Vivek Tiwari, Old Snowey Angie, Uyeda, Mt. Adams Jennifer Wade, South Sister Larry Weber, Mt. Hood Matthew Wiens, South Sister Robin Wilburn, North Sister George Williams, Mt. Hood Chris Wright, Pangbuk North Aaron Zarosinski, Mt. Rainier
Reinstatements Stan Aarsund (2003), Michael Ferrante (1999), Sharon Baker (2006)
Deceased Ralph Core (1971), John Weigand (1944)
FEBRUARY 2015 27
TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open
to members and non-members alike. Contact Trail Trips Committee co-chair Terry Lawson at 503-819-9250 with any questions. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR NEW HIKES & UPDATES Check the website for new hikes and updates and other useful information: Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the Bulletin is published, or a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit mazamas.org/hike for updates. The main page gives general information, which is elaborated upon in the blue Hiking-Quick Links box, where the hike schedule is found as well as valuable tips on what to bring in your pack, first aid supplies and clothing tips. 20S & 30S MAZAMAS ARE ALSO HIKING: Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activitiesevents/20sand30s WINTER HIKING SEASON In winter, dressing for the conditions using rain gear, layers, and appropriate clothing is important in reducing your risk of hypothermia. Be sure to read the important Mazama Hike Rules at the bottom of the main page. Leaders may refuse to accept participation by those they feel are unqualified or unprepared. MAZAMA TRAIL TRIPS MEETUP Would you like hiking opportunities to pop up in your email and to receive reminders of hikes you have RSVP’d for? Join Mazama Trail Trips Meetup and receive email notifications. Trail Trips has a number of hikes listed on Meetup. See who else is going, ask questions, post photos. Join at meetup. com/mazama-hiking/.
HK A2.5 Feb 01 (Sun) Forest Park - Hole In The Park Loop. Guy Wettstein guywettstein@gmail.com or 503-860-1696. Meet at Newton Rd. parking lot. Newton Rd. lot to Wildwood west, cross Newton to Firelane 15 then Firelane 12. Back up to Wildwood east, up Newton and back. 6 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 26 https://www.google.com/ maps/@45.5912155,-122.80219 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 01 (Sun) Coyote Wall Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Super Bowl Sunday. A top-of-thecliff hike on the dryer sided of the Gorge. Out early, back in time for the half time commercials. Poles and traction devices recommended. 8.2 miles 1,950 ft. Dr. 126 TH Gateway 7:30 p.m. MU HK C2 Feb 01 (Sun) Benson Plateau (Herman Creek). Dyanne Foster 503-267-8937. Wilderness— Limit 12. Come and enjoy hiking the lovely Herman Creek then turn off to go up the well graded Benson Plateau trail to the top. Bring traction devices and appropriate winter clothing. 12.8 miles 3,720 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. SS A Feb 01 (Sun) White River Canyon. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will venture up White River canyon approx. 2 miles, gain the West ridge and travel off trail back down Boy Scout Ridge to the Cars. Pace will be easy/moderate. Bring ski poles. Please contact leader via email to reserve a spot. 4 miles 1,000 ft. Dr. 110 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Feb 04 (Wed) PCT to Greenleaf Overlook. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. We will hike from the Bridge of the Gods and trail head up to the Pacific Crest trail and visit Gillette Lake on the way to the Greenleaf Overlook for a nice view over the Gorge. We will stop for lunch at Gillette Lake on the way back. 8.2 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 80 MMC 8 p.m. MU HK B2.5 Feb 07 (Sat) Catherine Creek/Coyote Wall Loop. Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284. Up
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Catherine creek, then high traverse over to Coyote wall. Return to cars by lower route. May see some early wildflowers. 10 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 126 Gateway 8:30 a.m. SS B Feb 07 (Sat) Tilly Jane. Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Wilderness— Limit 12. A classic snowshoe up to the A-frame, and a bit of exploring beyond if weather permits. Check with leader about conditions before trip. 6 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 78 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Feb 08 (Sun) Nestucca Spit and Cape Kiwanda. Jess Beauchemin 503-446-0803 or beauchemin.jess@gmail.com. These two Pacific City hikes will cross sand, grassy dunes, and coastal forest. We’ll start by looping around Nestucca Spit and then drive up the road to hike a short trail to Cape Kiwanda. Be prepared for unpredictable winter weather at the coast. 6.5 miles 200 ft. Dr. 170 Contact leader to arrange carpool. 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Feb 08 (Sun) Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trail. Rick Eskridge 503-668- 8200. Wilderness—Limit 12. A great winter hike if it doesn’t ice up. Well graded trail with a fantastic view point at the end. Bring poles and traction devices if you have them. Come prepared for wind and blowing rain and snow. This is in the wilderness so please call me to reserve a spot. 8.9 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 78 TH L & C - near toilets 8:30 a.m. HK C2 Feb 08 (Sun) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@ mentor.com. You must contact the leader to join this hike. Great preBCEP conditioning hike. We’ll leave Bonneville Hot springs and head up the West Ridge Trail. We’ll come down Heartbreak if there is snow, West Ridge if no snow. Be prepared for snow, ice, and rain. 9-10 miles 3,450 ft. Dr. 84 TH TBD 7 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 11 (Wed) Deschutes River Trail. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Exploratory - Try something different on the dry side. Deschutes river canyon.is both a national and
a state scenic waterway. 10 miles 800 ft. Dr. 185 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Feb 13 (Fri) St. Johns to Forest Park Loop Hike. William O’Brien 503-679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo.com. Hike from St. Johns across St Johns Bridge, then a nice loop hike thru Forest Park. Nice views of Willamette River from Bridge, views of Bridge from Forest Park. Park on streets adjacent to Bridge. We leave at 9 a.m. 7.5 miles 900 ft. Dr. #75 Tri-Met Lombard Bus Meet on Eastside of St. Johns Bridge 9 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 14 (Sat) WildwoodMarquam loop. Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail.com. This hike uses the Wildwood and Marquam trails as well as streets in SW Portland to form a loop past the Japanese Garden, Oregon Zoo, and Council Crest with many nice views along the way. 7.8 miles 1,750 ft. Dr. 0 SW 18th and Salmon 9:30 a.m. MU NS B2 Feb 14 (Sat) Ski Tour Pocket Creek. Wayne Lincoln 503-245-9193. Cross country ski on loop around Tea Cup. Route is from Robin Hood Snow Park past Tea Cup and around Tea Cup Lake (which you will not see, but I am told is there) and return along forest road. Call leader as snow conditions may require a different location or date 8 miles 800 ft. ft. Dr. 130 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Feb 15 (Sun) Mt. Tabor . Terry Lawson lawson.terry@gmail. com. We will hike the Red, Green and Blue trails through the woods of Mt. Tabor. Meet at the parking lot near the amphitheater, email leader for directions. 6 miles 900 ft ft. Dr. 0 Mt. Tabor amphitheater lot 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 15 (Sun) WahkeenaDevils Rest Loop. Dan Smith 503-408-8923. Great hike up past waterfalls and along the ridge on top. Then down to Angels Rest . Short drive makes this easy day and back early! 9.5 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Feb 16 (Mon) Eagle Creek (Cross-Over Falls). Wilderness— Limit 12. A good hike anytime
STREET RAMBLES Tuesday and Thursday Rambles
Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REIPearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m. A Mazama team on a hike at Rex Bunker Hill on Jan. 15, 2015. Photo: Daniel Smith. of the year. Come prepared for appropriate weather conditions, which could be just about anything this time of year. 12.6 miles 1,080 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Feb 18 (Wed) Elk Mountain Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Conditioning hike - We will summit Elk Mountain, Then loop back to the cars along Elk Creek. Come prepared for any kind of weather. 8.5 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 60 MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Feb 21 (Sat) University Falls Loop. Bill Stein billstein.rpcv@ gmail.com. Tillamook State Forest’s Historic Hiking Loop is highlighted by University Falls. The area is heavily used by off-road vehicles much of the year, but it should be relatively quiet in late February. RSVP required, and please come prepared for cold, wet weather. 8.6 miles 1,275 ft. Dr. 70 Sunset Transit Ctr - NE Cor, Hwy26/217 8 a.m. HK C2 Feb 21 (Sat) Table Mountain Loop. Leslie Shotola lesjs2@yahoo. com. Bring poles, traction devices, sit pads, rain gear, and snowshoes. Be prepared for harsh conditions. Hopefully we will enjoy some good light for pictures of the surrounding mountains and gorge! Description URL: http://www.portlandhikersfieldguide. org/wiki/Table_Mountain_from_
Aldrich_Butte_Trailhead_Hike 10 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. SS A Feb 21 (Sat) Trillium Lake Off Trail Snowshoe. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Plan is to head down towards the lake by traveling off trail down a small gully towards Summit Meadows. Once we reach the meadows, head south crossing the former air strip as we continue our trek to the lake. At the lake have lunch and then traverse around the lake and retrace our route back to the cars. Poles will be helpful. Pace will be easy to moderate. Please contact leader via email reserve a spot. 4,5 miles 600 ft. Dr. 100 SnoPark Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Feb 22 (Sun) Lacamas and Round Lakes. Terry Lawson lawson. terry@gmail.com. We start between the two lakes and first explore the trails in Lacamas Lake Regional Park near Round Lake, visiting 3 falls. We then have a snack at the picnic area of Lacamas Lake and do an out and back along Lacamas Lake to the viewpoint of the Pittock-Leadbetter house across the lake. Call leader for directions if you want to meet at the trailhead. 7 miles 500 ft ft. Dr. 30 Gateway 9:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 22 (Sun) Devils Rest (via Angels Rest). Rick Craycraft 503-6792113 or leftfield5@juno.com. The Good
Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult, very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details. prior to the day of the trip is mandatory. Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed in mph, ex. 1.5 = 1.5 mph. 1 would be a slow, easy pace with 3.5 being a very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size is limited to 12. MU=Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway;
and Evil hike! Up the back way via Primrose Path and Foxglove Way. Signs of Spring? Pouring rain? Come and find out. Dress for the weather. 8.4 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway 7:30 a.m. SS B Feb 22 (Sun) Tilley Jane to Cloud Cap Snowshoe. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@mentor.com. You must contact hike leader to join this snowshoe trip. Wilderness—Limit 12. Snowshoe up one of the most scenic trails on Mt. Hood past the Tilly Jane A-Frame. We’ll break for lunch at the historic Cloud Cap Inn before returning. 6-7 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 166 SnoPark TBD 6:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Feb 25 (Wed) University Falls Loop. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Coast range Gravelle loop hike past University Falls. This trail is named for the Gravelle twins, Elroy and Edmund, who spent countless hours helping to develop and maintain the Tillamook State Forest trail system. 8.4 miles 2450 ft. Dr. 75 MMC 8 a.m. MU HK A2 Feb 28 (Sat) Horsetail Falls/ Triple Falls Loop. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness—Limit 12. Beautiful winter hike! The Triple Falls viewpoint is definitely worth this workout effort. Call leader if weather looks marginal or for any questions. 6.2 miles 1,450 ft. Dr. 60 TH Gateway 9 a.m.
FEBRUARY DATES ▶▶ Tue. Feb. 3 ▶▶ Thu., Feb 5 ▶▶ Tue. Feb. 10 ▶▶ Thu., Feb 12 ▶▶ Tue. Feb. 17 ▶▶ Thu., Feb 19 ▶▶ Tue. Feb. 24 ▶▶ Thu., Feb 26 HK B2.5 Feb 28 (Sat) Hardy Ridge Loop. Guy Wettstein guywettstein@ gmail.com or 503-860-1696. This makes a good Pre-BCEP conditioner. Otherwise, it’s a moderate Gorge hike through the woods with a nice ridge summit. Contact leader for signup and details. 8 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 84 StatePark GatewayTransit Center NW Corner 7:30 a.m. MU HK B2.5 Feb 28 (Sat) Hardy Ridge Loop. Guy Wettstein guywettstein@ gmail.com or 503-860-1696. This makes a good Pre-BCEP conditioner. Otherwise, it’s a moderate Gorge hike through the woods with a nice ridge summit. Contact leader for sign up and details. 8 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 84 StatePark Gateway Transit Center NW Corner 7:30 a.m. MU
Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
FEBRUARY 2015 29
Executive Council meets on the 2nd Tuesday of the month. Attending: Sojo Hendrix–President, John Rettig–Secretary, Steve Hooker–Treasurer (via phone), Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Marty Hanson, Amy Mendenhall, Joan Zuber. Staff: Lee Davis, Jamie Anderson, Adam Baylor, Sarah Bradham, Kati Mayfield. Absent: Judith Baker–Vice President. The meeting was called to order at 6:31 p.m. by President Sojo Hendrix. It was noted that a quorum was present. It was moved by John Rettig and seconded by Steve Hooker to approve the agenda as published; motion carried unanimously. The minutes from Dec. 12, 2014 were reviewed. John Rettig reported the omission of two items that had been acted upon by council at this meeting, to wit: The Executive Director requested that we formally allocate specific historical ‘temporarily restricted funds’ to the development projects per the approved budget and reserves structure previously approved and as specifically recommended by the CPA in their 2013 management letter. It was moved by Judith B and seconded by Amy Mendenhall to do so; motion carried (7-0-1, Joan Zuber abstaining). The Executive Director had further noted that the value of the 2014–15 Sustaining Grant from Mazamas Foundation, as well as the entire 3-year Foundation development grant, was recognized and accrued on our books as of Sept. 30, 2014. Our approved 2014–15 budget anticipated receipt of $412,000 in the current fiscal year from these grants. Because the revenue was recognized last fiscal year, our budget performance for last year was significantly increased, and our approved budget will be off by this amount. Additionally, we have not previously budgeted for depreciation and the noncash value of our lease agreement with the
Mazamas Foundation. He thus requested that we approve a revised annual budget so that our ongoing monthly budget reports reflect these activities accurately. It was moved, seconded, and passed unanimously to do so. Kate Evans moved and Joan Zuber seconded a motion to approve the minutes from Dec. 12, amended to add these two items; motion carried unanimously.
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—JAN. 13, 2015
▶▶ The USFS has to date still not provided a written status of our EA for the lodge parking.
OLD BUSINESS The Consent Agenda was reviewed; there were written reports and actions requested from the following committees: ▶▶ 20s and 30s Mazamas ▶▶ Climbing ▶▶ Expedition BUSINESS REPORTS ▶▶ Outings The Secretary’s Membership Report ▶▶ Risk Management Dec. 31 was read verbally into the record ▶▶ Strategic Plan (change strategic plan and details can be found on page ____. A wording) discussion then ensued regarding the validity ▶▶ Trail Trips of some glaciated summits submitted for ▶▶ Classic Mazamas (verbal report from membership. Staff and council will closely liaison Kate Evans) monitor, although no formal action will be By consensus we first accepted into the taken at this time. record those reports not requesting actions, The Treasurer’s Report was reviewed then dealt with the action requests as by Steve Hooker. As of November 30, 2014, follows: Mazamas total operational revenue is Sunny Freeman moved and Marty $251,065 ($88,956 for the month) and total Hanson seconded a motion to change the operating expenses are $212,353. Assets wording for the strategic plan component (cash) available for general operations for “explore new programs,” as follows: Was: are $107,085 and current total assets are “Develop youth and family programs and $1,740,175. Steve Hooker asked management related events;” is “Develop youth outreach to add prior year comparative figures to programs and related events.” Motion carried the balance sheet and current year-to-date unanimously. budgeted comparative figures to the income The Foundation Agreement was reviewed; statement. we have already been executing the various Lee Davis made the Executive Director’s projects since the beginning of the fiscal Report, incorporated herein by reference; year. There were minimal comments received items noted beyond the written summary on the component projects since this was provided in the packet were as follows: presented at the October retreat, and these ▶▶ The BCEP information night is Jan. 22, have been incorporated. It was moved by not Jan. 20. Steve Hooker and seconded by Joan Zuber to ▶▶ An agenda was reviewed for the approve the agreement; motion carried 6–1 Committee Chair potluck, and likewise a (John Rettig dissenting). draft fundraising plan was reviewed, both The Outdoor Safety Institute contract was also incorporated herein. reviewed. It was moved by Marty Hanson
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama Member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com.
503.684.9698
30 MAZAMA BULLETIN
Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to http://mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.
and seconded by John Rettig to approve the $7,000 Leadership Training/Climbing Committee review portion of this contract; motion carried unanimously. We then discussed the $1,120 Mazama Families portion of the contract; by consensus we elected no action on this portion. The employee handbook draft review was updated. There had been concerns expressed about the harassment policy and compliance with the city of Portland sick leave laws; it was felt we needed to engage an HR consultant to look into these portions. Joan Zuber agreed to coordinate this effort. John Rettig moved to table the matter until February and authorize 8 hours and $1,200 for the consultant from our legal fund; motion died for lack of second. Steve Hooker then moved and Marty Hanson seconded a motion to simply table until February; motion carried unanimously.
NEW BUSINESS Adam Baylor presented an update on the Outdoor Alliance, and reviewed the invitation to join. Council members were asked to present questions regarding Outdoor Alliance. John Rettig made a presentation on record keeping and management; the intent being to better clarify responsibility and ownership for all of the required EC, officer, staff, and committee communications, publishing, noticing, and records archival, along with the associated deadlines. A written summary chart was offered to the Executive Director for use in training staff, incorporated herein by reference. John Rettig explained an initiative he had begun in October to make the EC listserv open to members. Rules would be: ▶▶ Access would be read only ▶▶ It would require the member to opt-in ▶▶ Executive session matters would
henceforth not be put on this listserv; there would be a separate list or mechanism for this The IT manager/webmaster had already been consulted and felt that this was workable; it was thus moved by John Rettig and seconded by Joan Zuber to open the EC listserve to any member in good standing who wished to join, with appropriate safeguards to be put in place for executive sessions. Motion carried 6-1 (Sunny Freeman dissenting). An executive session was held regarding the Exec. Dir. performance review; minutes to be released after review is presented on Jan. 19, 2015 (salary information only; performance rating is a confidential employee record). We adjourned at 9:30 p.m. John Rettig, Secretary
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FEBRUARY 2015 31
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Elisabeth Bowers climbing in Johnston Canyon, Banff National Park. Photo: Heather Campbell.