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Portland Alpine Fest Interview with Jim Whittaker SHIFT Conference Bob Wilson Expedition Grants
UPCOMING EVENTS NOV. 17–22— 3RD ANNUAL PORTLAND ALPINE FEST
Five days of presentations by top level athletes, clinics, seminars, and competitions. Get all the details: portlandalpinefest.org
ALEX NOV. 21— ENING WITH EV N A : IT M THE SUM KER JIM WHITTAyear! HONNOLD & e th of T night Our BIGGES food, a vendor fair, us io ic el Enjoy d al time, auction, soci ails: nt le si e g hu det a re o M . more awards, and est.org/the -summit/ ef in portlandalp
Cover: Climbing to the Hogsback on Mt. Hood. Photo: Shakul Tandon. This page: Jesse Applegate, Kim Edger, Audrey Brown, Michael Zasadzien, Ronald Kravitz and Justin Colquhoun setting up their tents at Camp Schurman during their Rainier climb. Photo: Ben Grandy.
FEATURES Portland Alpine Fest, p. 4–12 Event Schedule, p. 4 Tailoring Your Experience, p. 6 Interviews with Jim Whittaker, John Frieh, Scott Adamson, and Dawn Glanc, p. 8–13 SHIFT: Outdoor Recreation, p. 18 Bob Wilson Expedition Grants, p. 24
MONTHLY COLUMNS Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM), p. 15 Evening Travel Programs, p. 17 Mazama Families, p. 18 Membership Report, p. 19 Classics, p. 20 Lodge Notes, p. 21 Outings, p. 22 Trail Trips, p. 28 Executive Council, p. 30
Publications Committee Committee Chair: Kristie Perry, publications@mazamas.org
Committee Members: Catherine Diaz, Ken DuBois, Joe Fox, Sue Griffith, Lacy Turner
Mazama Staff Lee Davis • Executive Director • lee@mazamas.org Jamie Anderson •Member Services Manager jamie@mazamas.org Adam Baylor • Stewardship & Advocacy Manager • adam@mazamas.org Sarah Bradham • Marketing & Publications Manager • sarah@mazamas.org Mathew Brock • Library & Historical Collections Manager • mathew@mazamas.org Laura Burger • Membership & Development Assistant • laura@mazamas.org Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org Charles Barker • Mazama Lodge Manager • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org
CONTACT US Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, Oregon, 97215 • 503-227-2345 • adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Fri 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Rd. •Government Camp, Oregon, 97028 503-272-9214 • mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. Noon–Mon. Noon
Pioneers of Adventure El Capitans!), with pitches of rock climbing Dear Mazamas, up to grade 5.11d, and snow and ice slopes Here at the end of the Oregon Trail, the up to 65 degrees. Their route traverses the Mazamas are hosting two great pioneers in entire Cerro FitzRoy skyline, summiting Aguja American mountaineering at The Summit Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro FitzRoy, of this year’s Portland Alpine Fest. Viewed Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juarez, Aguja together, the careers of these men represent Saint-Exupery and Aguja de l’S. Later in 2015, a breadth and depth of climbing experience in Chamonix, their achievement earned them seldom captured in a single place and time. the world’s most prestigious climbing award: Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit the Piolet d’OR. Mt. Everest, has lived the ultimate life of The Mazamas have a 120-year legacy of expedition-style alpine adventure. And this sharing stories that inspire us all to step year Alex Honnold, one of the world’s greatest into the mountains and climb higher. The rock climbers, has distinguished himself as Summit of the Portland Alpine Fest gives us a master of the modern light-and-fast alpine an opportunity to continue that tradition with style with an enchainment of the seven peaks our very best athletes and heroes. Whittaker that make up Patagonia’s iconic FitzRoy range. and Honnold come from different eras and In 1963 Jim Whittaker became the first traditions in American climbing, but both American to summit Mt. Everest, at a time men’s stories exemplify a willingness to step when the world’s highest mountain was still into the unknown and face extraordinary largely unknown and undocumented. There personal challenges. When Whittaker climbed were no clear route descriptions, no maps, no Mt. Everest he had never been to Nepal and the ladders or fixed lines, and no good pictures highest peak he had climbed previously was that could be used to pick out the route. It Denali (then Mt. McKinley) which is roughly was six full years before the Apollo 11 moon 9,000 ft. lower in elevation. And when Alex landing, and for those six years Jim Whittaker Honnold climbed the Fitz Traverse it was the was our greatest explorer. Whittaker’s first climb he had ever done in Patagonia, achievement represented the pinnacle of American adventure and achievement. In 1963 Jim Whittaker became Earlier this year, the first American to summit Alex Honnold Mt. Everest ... there were no and his partner clear route descriptions, no Tommy Caldwell maps, no ladders or fixed accomplished one lines, and not even any good of the most difficult pictures that could be used to mountaineering pick out the route. It was six achievements full years before the Apollo of our day: the 11 moon landing, and for Fitz Traverse in Patagonia, Chile. those six years Jim Whittaker Over five days in was our greatest explorer. February, the team Whittaker’s achievement climbed roughly represented the pinnacle of 4,000 vertical meters American adventure and of terrain (that’s four achievement.
ADVERTISER INDEX Active Adventures, p. 27 Base Camp Brewing Company, p. 5 Centered in Motion, p. 30 Classifieds, p. 30 Climb Max Mountaineering, p. 21 Embark Adventures, p. 20 Montbell, p. 23
Advertise with us! tinyurl.com/MazamaAdvertising Mountain Shop, p. 25 Next Adventure, p. 14 Oregon Mountain Community, p. 13 Piano Lessons with Dr. Alice Sheu, p. 14 SMC Gear, p. 31 SPOT, p. 16 Sunny Freeman Real Estate, p. 16
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S REPORT
(and apparently the first time he ever wore crampons!) Mazamas know a few things about alpine adventure: we know the rewards of achieving difficult goals in the mountains, and we also know that the challenges involved are real. We like to tell the public “your adventure starts here!”, but we are quick to provide education that balances the risk with needed knowledge and techniques. That’s one reason why it’s so exciting to host these two great climbers at the 2015 Portland Alpine Fest Summit: few organizations in the world can inspire people to go into the mountains, while at the same time providing the means to do it safely. The third annual Portland Alpine Fest happens this month; it’s a weeklong celebration of alpine recreation designed to bring together everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains. Join us Saturday, November 21 at The Summit where you can see old friends, support the Mazamas through our silent auction, and be inspired by two of our nation’s greatest pioneers of adventure and exploration. We’ll see you there,
Lee Davis Executive Director
MAZAMA (USPS 334-780) Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama.bulletin@mazamas. org). Advertising: mazama.ads@mazamas.org. Subscription: $15 per year. Bulletin material must be emailed to the editor. All material is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday. The Mazama Bulletin is published monthly by the Mazamas—527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215. The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.
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THE SUMMIT: AN EVENING WITH JIM WHITTAKER & ALEX HONNOLD
▶▶ Nov. 21: The biggest night of the festival at the Oregon Convention Center. You’ll enjoy delicious food, social time, a silent auction, vendor fair, and presentations from our two keynote speakers. ▶▶ portlandalpinefest.org/thesummit ▶▶ Tickets: $45 until Nov. 15 (includes food) Week of event: $50 SPEAKER SERIES
▶▶ Nov. 17: Blue Collar Beatdown with John Frieh ▶▶ Nov. 18: Nepal Reflections with Scott Rogers ▶▶ Nov. 18: Blurred Lines with Christof Teuscher ▶▶ Nov. 19: Zion Ice with Scott Adamson ▶▶ Nov. 20: Iceland: A Climber’s Saga with Dawn Glanc (bonus: Fashion Show after the presentation) ▶▶ portlandalpinefest.org/speakerseries 10TH ANNUAL PORTLAND ICE COMP
▶▶ Nov. 21: 10th Annual dry-tooling competition at the newly-renovated Portland Rock Gym ▶▶ portlandalpinefest.org/icecomp SEMINARS
▶▶ Nov. 19: Emergency Beacons (Rare Earth Adventures) ▶▶ Nov. 19: Training for Alpine Climbing (John Frieh) ▶▶ Nov. 19: Risk vs. Reward & The Intrapersonal Relationship with Fear (Scott Rogers) ▶▶ Nov. 20: Memoir Writing Workshop (Joe Fox)
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Now in its 3rd year, the Portland Alpine Fest truly has something for everyone who loves the mountains. There are clinics and seminars for new and experienced climbers, a speaker series from talented athletes, a photo contest, a memoir writing workshop, and more.
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CLINICS ▶▶ Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (John Frieh, Dawn Glance and Scott Adamson) ▶▶ Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing (Dawn Glanc and John Frieh) ▶▶ Crack Climbing (Scott Adamson and Scott Rogers) ▶▶ Rock Climbing Techniques for Women (Dawn Glanc) ▶▶ Intro to Aid Climbing (Scott Rogers) ▶▶ Intro to Slackline (Scott Rogers) ▶▶ Running & Fast Packing: The Art of Efficient Foot Travel (Yassine Diboun, Brian Donnelly, and Willie McBride) ▶▶ Intro to Ultra Running for Women (Krissy Moehl) ▶▶ High Altitude & Extreme Cold Photography (Scott Rogers)
Photo: Jimmy Chin
ALEX HONNOLD Alex Honnold is a world-class American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. He jumped into the mountaineering world with both feet when, with Tommy Caldwell, he completed the first ascent of the “Fitz Traverse,” climbing across the iconic ridgeline of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia. In his recently published book, Alone on the Wall, Honnold recounts the seven most astonishing climbing achievements so far in his meteoric and still-evolving career. We share in the jitters and excitements he feels waking in his van (where he lives full time) before a climb; we see him self-criticize in his climbing journal (a veritable bible for students of the sport); and we learn his secrets to managing fear—his most enviable talent. Veteran climber and award-winning author David Roberts writes part of each chapter in his own voice, and he calls on other climbers and the sport’s storied past to put Alex’s tremendous accomplishments in perspective.
CELEBRATION OF TRAILS
▶▶ Nov. 21: A trail race/fun run in Forest Park. Opportunitoies for runners and hikers; 10 and 16 mile options. ▶▶ portlandalpinefest.org/ celebrationoftrails PHOTO COMPETITION
▶▶ Submission deadline: Nov. 1 ▶▶ 24 semi-finalists will be chosen and their photos will be displayed at Base Camp Brewing Company ▶▶ 4 winners will receive a $250 gift card to Pro Photo Supply
Photo: Brian Mosbaugh
SCOTT ROGERS Scott Rogers is an adventure photographer and athlete currently residing in Moab, Utah. His specialties include motion and still photography of rock climbing, slacklining, BASE jumping and high altitude expedition climbing. He has been climbing and slacklining for 12 years, skydiving and BASE jumping for 8 years, and paragliding for over 5 years. He has been featured as a contributing photographer for numerous publications, including the New York Times and Outside magazine. In 2013, his work received a Sports Emmy Nomination for “Best Camerawork.”
Driving volunteers Ongoing
The Classic Mazamas Committee provides accessible and interesting activities for longtime Mazama members, and for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace. One barrier to participation is access to transportation or an inability to drive after dark. If you would be willing to be a “transportation buddy” for a few folks in your neighborhood, let us know! Contact kati@mazamas.org.
Conservation Committee Members Monday, Nov. 23
The Mazama Conservation Committee is recruiting new members to support their work in advocating for protection and management of natural areas in support of healthy ecosystems; educating membership; and guiding the Mazamas to become carbon neutral. Join us at our November meeting to discuss our past, present and future work. RSVP to Tom Bard, chair, at bardtom535@gmail.com.
Portland Alpine Fest Volunteers Nov. 17–21
From setup to registration to take-down, we need enthusiastic volunteers to make the 2015 Portland Alpine Fest the best one yet. Check out the Portland Alpine Fest website (portlandalpinefest.org/) for a full lineup of activities, then use this form to tell us which events you’re interested in supporting: http://goo.gl/forms/ mqZ0PZYmDx. Then mark your calendars for Monday, Nov. 16, for the PAF volunteer orientation. Questions? Email kati@mazamas.org.
Outings Committee Ongoing
If you are passionate about travel and adventure trips, this is your opportunity to participate in the visioning, planning, organization, and execution of
a successful Outing. Committee members work as liaisons with Outing Leaders from conception to wrap-up of trips, including: coordinating, budgeting, promoting, and financial tracking. The committee will meet every other month on the first Thursday. Interested volunteers should contact the Outings Committee Chair, Bob Breivogel, outings@mazamas.org for more information.
Storytellers, Writers, and Editors Wanted! Ongoing
Are you a published writer or working editor looking for the perfect Mazama volunteer gig? Would you like to polish up your proofreading, work on your word craft, or bring your college-era editing skills out of mothballs? Or would you like to learn about any or all of the above? The Publications Committee members love linking climbing, hiking, and wilderness adventures to the written word! The committee meets the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m. at the MMC. For more information, contact Marketing & Publications Manager Sarah Bradham (sarah@mazamas.org) or Publications Chair Kristie Perry (publications@mazamas.org).
Library Task Force Short-term
The Mazama Library and Historical Collections is seeking volunteers to serve on a Library Task Force, to research and present a range of options for a cost-effective, easy to use, searchable circulation software solution for our book collection, to the Library and Historical Collections Manager. This opportunity is limited duration and projectbased. Volunteers should have a basic understanding of how libraries work, strong computer competency, along with good communication and interpersonal skills. Please contact Mathew Brock, mathew@mazamas.org.
Arborists and electricians needed!
We need an electrician to help with fix-it projects at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, and an arborist to help remove the dead trees on the property. Contact Rick Craycraft, leftfield5@juno.com.
Nordic Instructors Needed December/January
Nordic enthusiasts are needed to volunteer as instructors or assistants for Nordic school. Instructors should have First Aid and CPR (encouraged but not required for assistants). We’ll reimburse for CPR/First Aid and mileage, as well as provide professional instructor skill training by Shelley Hakanson ( first weekend in December). If interested in volunteering with a Mazama Nordic Ski School class please contact Jodi Wacenske at jwacenske@yahoo.com.
Conflict Resolution Training Opportunity Thursday, Dec. 3
Have you ever wanted tools and strategies to make it easier to address and work through conflict? Are you interested in how to support others who are experiencing conflict? Join us for this free workshop with Resolutions Northwest, Thursday, 12/3 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@ mazamas.org to sign up.
VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Curious about volunteering but don’t see an opportunity that interests you? Fill out the Mazama Volunteer Survey, tinyurl.com/MazVolSurvey, to let us know more about your skills and interests, and we’ll be in touch to brainstorm with you.
KATI MAYFIELD VOLUNTEER MANAGER KATI@MAZAMAS.ORG Kati Mayfield joined the Mazamas as Volunteer Manager in 2012. In this role she supports Mazama volunteers by connecting them with the resources and information they need to fulfill their duties; and by helping new volunteers engage in meaningful ways. Kati also manages the Youth Outreach Program, geared towards creating opportunities for kids in our community to learn about and play in the mountains.
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Tailoring Your Experience by Alicia Imbody, Portland Alpine Fest Chair Whether this is your third Portland Alpine Fest (PAF), or you’re just now learning about all of the events happening November 17–22, there are plenty of ways for people of all abilities and experience levels to plug into PAF 2015! This year we have almost 40 events, and with so many options, some of which will be happening concurrently at different locations across the Portland Metro area, it may be a bit overwhelming. Check out our suggestions below for some of the clinics, seminars, and other events that might be of the most interest to you. NEW CLIMBERS You’ve taken BCEP or have been on a few climbs but you don’t have a lot of formal training or experience. There are three introductory ice and mixed climbing clinics this year to keep up with the high demand from new climbers. No experience is required; you will learn by actually climbing on the rock and foam “ice” walls in the MMC. Particularly for women who are just starting out, we understand that it can be an intimidating sport and we are stoked to have Dawn Glanc from Chicks Climbing with us this year. Dawn will run a women’s-only clinic to help ladies build confidence and learn efficient climbing techniques specific to our body-types. Regardless of gender, all new climbers can improve from more systematic training and John Frieh’s seminar, Training for Alpine Climbing, may help you make exponential gains and avoid injury. There’s also an Intro to Slackline clinic that will help new climbers improve balance and pass the time at
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camp when your tender fingers are building calluses! Those of you who are interested in venturing into steeper mountain terrain may be interested in the Emergency Beacon Seminar that will provide participants a chance to play with some critical technology for staying safe and connected in the backcountry. INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED CLIMBERS You’ve taken Intermediate Climbing School or the advanced classes, or have been climbing for several years, and you’re interested in taking your skills to the next level. This year we have three intermediate/advanced clinics for more experienced rock and ice climbers. These clinics focus on techniques to improve the fun factor and efficiency on moderate terrain and to guide you through the steeper stuff. Mastering the skills in this clinic can potentially open doors to new, longer, and more technical venues in vertical world. The crack climbing clinics will take advantage of the new indoor crack climbing facilities at Portland Rock Gym and are designed for sport climbers who would like to venture into traditional terrain, as well as trad climbers who would like to add new skills to their arsenal and improve efficiency. If you are curious about big wall climbing or would you like to learn how to get up the wall if it becomes bare or too difficult, Scott Rogers will be teaching an introductory aid climbing clinic. For those of you who have already discovered the joy of slacklining, you can join world-class highliner on an indoor highline at the Source and learn some tricks from one of the best. Anyone who has spent enough time in the mountains has had their fair share of fear, and the seminar Risk vs. Reward & The Intrapersonal Relationship with Fear is a great opportunity to think more critically about risk, how we are empowered by fear, and why we keep coming back for more despite the dangers. You
didn’t get to this point without some kind of training, but it might be worth reviewing the fundamentals with John Frieh during the Training for Alpine Climbing seminar. John will help you put together a tailored plan to send your project or meet your climbing goals. We also hope to see all of you more experienced crushers competing in the Portland Ice Comp! CLASSIC CLIMBERS You’ve put up some hard-man (or hard-woman) routes and have some incredible experiences you’d like to share. We know that you have so much knowledge to pass on and some inspiring stories to tell, and we want to help you do it! Joe Fox is leading a memoir writing workshop to help you turn your memories into compelling stories to share with the next generation of climbers and potentially publish in the Mazamas Bulletin. Experienced climbers like you also tend to have the best eye for mountain photography. Scott Rogers will be leading a photography workshop to help you hone your craft and share your love of climbing through photos. We’re hosting a contest to celebrate the beauty of climbing in the great outdoors with great prizes and opportunities to display the winning images. There will also be a VIP event for the Classic Mazamas prior to general admission to the Summit, including a private tour of a historical exhibit put together by the Mazamas Library & Historical Collections Manager, Mathew Brock, and a chance to catch up with old friends before doors open to the public. MOUNTAIN LOVERS You love being in the mountains but don’t necessarily consider yourself a climber, either because you haven’t started climbing (yet), or you have lots of other interests. This year’s PAF
Presented by
Lead Sponsors
Portland Ice Comp—Your Time to Shine! by Elisabeth Kay Bowers Scott Rogers, walking a highline in Moab, UT. Photo Credit: Renan Ozturk. Scott Rogers, is teaching several clinics during the Portland Alpine Fest, including an Intro to Slacklining clinic.
will feature several clinics for mountaineers who recognize the benefits of trail running to train for the mountains, and who want to apply the fitness and endurance they’ve gained peak-bagging to ultra running. We will also be hosting the first mountain trail race and a series of featured hikes from short urban rambles to long, steep, all-day trail excursions.
amazing outdoor recreation community. You’ll hear about some incredible adventurers pushing the limits in places like Alaska, Zion, and Iceland. There will be an opportunity to listen to climbers who were in Nepal during this year’s tragic earthquake while experiencing a cultural presentation from our local Sherpa community and local Nepali food provided by the Sherpa community. I’m personally thrilled to bring a new fun tradition I experienced in Ouray, CO to Portland this year—a fashion show that will feature casual and technical clothing modeled by some of the hottest (goofiest) climbers willing to strut their stuff. All of these events will feature refreshments and chances to
EVERYONE Regardless of whether you decide to sign up for a clinic, seminar, or one of the other hands-on activities happening during the festival, the evening presentations and the culminating event, The Summit, are for anyone with a love of the mountains and an interest in supporting our
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win great prizes generously donated by our local partners and sponsors. Finally, we hope to see you all at The Summit! So much hard work goes into making this huge event a success, I am incredibly proud to have many great vendors showing off the latest gear, sweet iems up for bid in the silent auction, and truly world-class athletes joining us at one of the biggest venues in the city. We want to celebrate our traditions and our members’ accomplishments, and all of the volunteers that make the Mazamas so great! As well as embrace the broader outdoor community and share our enthusiasm to enjoy and care for the places we play. We can’t do it without you!
Suspenseful? Yes. Nerveracking? Yes, but overall a very exciting event where you can be surrounded by your very talented local climbing community. What am I talking about? THE 10th Annual Portland Ice Comp at the Portland Rock Gym The Ice Comp, as the well-seasoned veterans of the competition call it, is a unique event developed for Portland’s climbing community. It was started years ago by training guru and ice-climbing extraordinaire, John Frieh. Over time it has evolved into a major spectacle of the Portland Alpine Fest, where many spectators squeeze between PRG’s walls to see rising local climbing talent. It is an amazing event to watch as well as to participate in. Whether or not you have much experience specific drytooling (it is a drytooling event afterall— since there is not ice to be had in PRG) this is a fun event to participate in for the rock climber who has only slightly dabbled in the use of tools for climbing. The Ice Comp requires the skills and abilities that many rock climbers already possess: problem-solving; an understanding of body mechanics; and downright scrappiness. The Ice Comp is fun for everyone, spectators and competitors alike. Come compete! Come cheer on your friends! See you there— Nov. 21 at the Portland Rock Gym! NOVEMBER 2015
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Jim WHITTAKER I was hoping you could talk a little bit about where your passion for the mountains and adventure came from originally when you were younger? I tell a story about my brother and I. We were identical twins, ten minutes apart, very competitive. We’d be wrestling in the house, when we were just young, playing, and scuffling. And our mother would say just go outside and play and we would go outside. And when you’re outside you’re in the trees, and clouds, and sky, and if there’s a beach nearby, you walk to the beach. So, my introduction to the world of nature was outside in vacant lots in Seattle where I grew up. There were beaches we could walk to. We’re lucky here in the Northwest that nature is pretty close, and that’s how I was first introduced to it. My first climbing was on smaller peaks, very close to Seattle that you could just hike up. I was in the Boy Scouts, and I began to do a little bit more technical stuff then I had a chance to join the Seattle Mountaineers as a junior which had really good people, who knew how to climb. They were my mentors. Then we did Olympus, we did Glacier Peak, and then we began to do all the other major peaks. I was lucky to be guiding on Mt. Rainier, climbs up to the summit, through college, so that was my best climbing experience, where I really learned a lot about mountaineering. You were only 24 years old when Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay made the first ascent of Everest. A decade later you became the first American to do it and it gives you a perspective on the world of alpine climbing that’s far removed from what most of us today grew up understanding about mountaineering. What is it about mountaineering that makes it a competitive pursuit, in your view? I go back to my friend James Ramsey Ullman who wrote a book Americans on Everest, and he came up with a pretty good analysis of all of that. He said that, “Challenge is the core and mainspring of all human activity. If there’s an ocean, we cross it. If there’s a record, we break it. If there’s a wrong, we right it. If there’s a disease, we cure it. And, finally, if there’s a mountain, we climb it.” It’s sort of the nature of man to meet those challenges. I see that as both good and bad. My own love of the mountains and the natural world is the reason why I climbed. It wasn’t to break any records, or anything, it was merely to be in nature. And nature is a wonderful
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The articles on pages 8–12 are the work of Joe Fox, Publications Committee member, and are based on conversations he had with each of the athletes.
teacher, a place where you can test yourself against many things. It’s a magical planet, we’re lucky to be on it and people like to break records, and that’s ok, but you don’t want that to take away from the beauty of the planet and the magical place that it is.
That resonates with me quite a bit. I think that’s the way I feel about it too. So then what did motivate you to climb Everest in those early days? Well, we were over on the mountain and we had been invited to go over and climb it and I was a climber and I had guided on Rainier, so I knew quite a bit about it. I felt the need, because we were halfway around the world, to climb it, because we were there, and because IT was there. Then Jake, a member of our team, was killed in the ice fall. That made it even more of something that we should accomplish because, at that point, it would have been such a waste to have lost Jake and not have achieved our goal. I felt, was pretty important to reach the summit. At the same time, I’ve been turned back on a lot of other mountains and wisely so, because to reach the summit is optional, to get down is mandatory. You go up there to climb and to see what you can do, and you test yourself in that manner, but it’s all about rational testing. I used to speed climb up Rainier to see if my party would be the first to get up, and do stuff like that. It’s just human nature to do something the best you can. And to be as good at it as you can. As you know, the Mazamas have a long history of leading climbs and expeditions.Our members take this role of leadership seriously and there is a great depth of experience and specialized training that leaders are required to have. I know you’ve spent a lifetime being a climb leader, essentially. What have you taken away from such a broad depth of experience as a leader? What advice can you offer to our younger members who are just starting to lead climbs? I remember leading 80 to 90 climbers up Mt. Baker a couple of times. That was when we didn’t limit the number of climbers that went up. There would be a huge chain of people that would head up Mt. Baker,
Right page: Jim wearing Balti hat, 1978. Photo: Dianne Roberts. Top: Climbers descend from the 1975 Camp I with a sled full of oxygen cylinders to be cached for a later expedition. Photo: Dianne Roberts. Bottom: Jim teaching “John John” the snowplow, in front of the Roundhouse at Sun Valley; (L to R) Jim with Jacqueline, Caroline and John Kennedy, Jr., about 1966. Photo: Whittaker family collection/Look Magazine.
and then we began to limit the number of people on Rainier. When you lead you need to, of course, know the mountain, know the route, know yourself, but the thing that I felt was important is you need to know the client, you need to know the people that you’re leading. And so we’d take people up that had never climbed before. Climbing Rainier, as you know, you go to Camp Muir and it’s just a walk to that point and it gives
you a chance to measure the people that you’re with. Their stamina and what kind of shape they’re in. But it also gives you a chance to understand their mentality and why they’re climbing. And that was the good part of leading—you learn a lot about the people. Then as I guided, I realized that you had better know a lot about these people because the people you’re climbing with can kill you. You are roped up to people who have never climbed before, if you’re guiding. It’s important that they know you’ve got to have good communication, that they do what you say, that you’re prepared for a backup in case something goes wrong and. When you’re leading, one of the most important things is to listen to your clients or your partners, whoever it may be, and to try and figure out if they’re on the same agenda as you are. Leading climbs is difficult. Leading expeditions is very difficult because people have their own ideas. It’s hard to hold everybody together when things are going to hell and it looks like you’re not going to get the mountain and other people want the chance to try. It’s a very complicated issue.
On superstitions in climbing… You do get superstitious, there is no question about it. If something works you’ll take it with you the next time. I’ve taken the same poetry book up on Everest and K2. You say you’ve taken the same poetry book up there? What book is that? Oh it’s just a book by Robert W. Service, The Spell of the Yukon. A lot of the time you are trapped and up in the tent in a storm and you want to read stuff. If you’ve read a book a few times you’ve sort of gotten the message, but if there is a whole book of poems you can begin to memorize the poems, and so that’s kind of fun. You can spend time memorizing poems and doing stuff like that, so I found poetry to be an interesting read. You know you get trapped for five days in a storm up on a mountain and you’ll end up reading the labels on your coat and the food labels on the packages. You’re desperate to read something.
On the magic of the mountains… When you come off the mountain after a climb you’ve learned so much, not just about yourself, but about the natural world. But also, if you live long enough then you can reflect on some of the magic that’s out there and you can begin to think that every day is a gift. I’ve lived long enough to believe that every day is a gift and still an adventure ... life is a mystery. There’s a lot we don’t know and it’s fun to explore and find out as much as we can. You’ve become something of a legend in the world of American mountaineering yourself, Jim. I’m sure you’ve given numerous talks and presentations. Do you set goals for yourself in these talks? Is there something you want to impress upon the folks who are going to be there to hear you speak this month at The Summit during the Portland Alpine Fest? What I hope to impress is that there should be an effort to get people outside, to get them out into nature. If we can get them into nature and they learn about it then they’ll love it. If they love it then they’ll take care of it, and if they take care of it they’ll pass it on to their children. So, that’s my goal now when I talk to most people, is to emphasize how lucky we are to know nature and how we should make it a point that there is no child left inside. We gotta get them out and then maybe we can save the planet. Then maybe we can recognize that there is global warming. We can recognize that we do need clean air and we do have a right to clean water and so forth. We’ve learned slowly about the environment. When we first started to climb there was wasn’t hardly anyone out there climbing. You began to get up on top of the peaks and you’d have your lunch sack and your orange peels and your can of juice, then you lift up a rock to hide this stuff under. Then, you find out that the next time you were up there, you lift up a rock and hell there is already so much garbage under it that you can hardly hide your stuff under it. Then, that’s when at REI we started to do these different programs. In 1955, we said, “hey if you pack it in, you gotta pack it out.” And so we began to do different things like that. But, we were dumb to start with. I can remember
throwing juice cans off the cliff to hear the noise as it went down. And we used to cut switchbacks and then the switchbacks would erode and ruin the trail and so then we learned not to cut switchbacks. Then we began doing clean ups. We used to float tin cans out and sink them in this clear alpine lake and I took a Governor from the State of Washington out to clean up one of those lakes back in the early 60’s. It’s an educational process and we’re smarter than we were a hundred years ago and I think the newer generation is smarter than we were. There are still things that we can do to continue to make life pleasant for our children and their children.
Get Tickets Online Jim Whittaker will Today! be speaking at portlandalpinefest.org The Summit on Nov. 21 at the Oregon Convention Center. We look forward to seeing you there!
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Dawn GLANC What you think of the trend towards competition as a mode for climbers? Do you feel a sense of competition with others to do things first, or faster? Well, I’m no longer one of the few women out there doing big things. There are a lot of women who have come on the scene lately. And I feel like there is some urgency on some of the things I want to do now. Of course I want to climb things before other people. That’s my goal. There’s a little bit of urgency with that. But luckily we’re all good enough friends, and we all talk to each other. So, if anything, it just stokes you up. If you had to put a number on it, the amount of ladies out there doing mixed climbing at your level, how small of a group are we talking about? Under 10. Can you talk a little bit about your new business venture? It’s not called “Chicks with Picks” anymore is it? It’s called “Chicks Climbing and Skiing” because we do more than just ice climbing. We do rock climbing, ice climbs, and skiing. You ladies bought the company from Kim Reynolds? And it seems like Kim was running it by herself for a while. Now it’s shifted to this cooperative crew of women. Is that correct? Correct. We are called the “Pentagon of Power.” Colin Haley gave us that name. Can you talk a little bit about being a business owner and what you hope to bring to this project? Being a business owner is a ton of work, but the reward always comes when we actually run the clinic and we just see how stoked these ladies are. That’s what feeds us. That’s what feeds this whole company. And that’s why we bought this company because we didn’t want that avenue for ladies to go away. If we’re not there, then where do they go for this advanced instruction? Where do they go for these kinds of trips? Is there something that separates folks that climb at a high level from other people? I think that the sacrifice that some people are willing to make is greater. Because I’m 40 now, and I think about all of the time that I’ve been climbing. And you know, in my 20’s and 30’s, I wouldn’t
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Photo: Jay Smith. Inset Photo: Fred Marmsater
have come to your birthday party. I probably would have missed your wedding. I would have missed any family function I needed to, in order to go climbing. I didn’t have a real job. It was paycheck to paycheck, guiding day to guiding day, with huge chunks of time where there’s no money coming in. Living in my van, with my dog—that’s a lot of sacrifice that some people just aren’t willing to make. I definitely know that there was a time in my life, when I was just so completely selfabsorbed, and it was all about climbing. It was all for climbing. There definitely was this wake up moment that recently happened—my parents were in a bad motorcycle accident, and some other things have befallen us too. I’ve realized that I’m losing this precious time with people, because I had to be tied into a rope. That was more important to me than being tied to my family, if you will. It was a real eye-opener that I’ve got to start thinking of other people. I can’t just be completely self-absorbed my whole life.
Dawn’s Festival Schedule:
Can you talk a little bit about the fitness element, the training? What do you do to be in top form for these big climbs, when you are tackling M11 & M12? I spend a lot of time in the weight room. I spend 3 to 4 days a week in the weight room. I’ve been lifting weights since I was 13. But I’ve been following my own program now for about 5 years, and I see huge results. I have a few exercises that are very climber specific, and they are specific to the moves that I’m trying to make. In general, it’s just an overall fitness plan, that includes weight lifting, and doing some aerobic activity a couple days a week, and also climbing as much as I can. Dawn is about to begin filming a new documentary about the rise of mixed climbing by women in North America. It will be titled “Mixtress.” It’s a story that’s never been told about one of the most exciting new chapters in climbing history. Look for more info and a Kickstarter campaign soon!
▶▶ Nov. 18–Intermediate/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 19–Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 20–Rock Climbing Tehcniques for Women (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 20–Iceland: A Climber’s Saga (Speaker Series) ▶▶ Nov. 20–Fashion Show (following the speaker series)
Get Tickets Online Today! portlandalpinefest.org
John FRIEH On the origins of his passion for the outdoors I definitely grew up in a family that recreated outside. Spent a lot of summers camping. Though I love climbing, I think, at its core, I love being outside. And really there might come a day where climbing is no longer an option or a pursuit, but I don’t ever imagine a day where I won’t be getting outdoors. My parents stuck me in the Boy Scouts at age twelve in hopes of instilling good moral fiber, I don’t know if that was successful. But during that time I climbed Middle Sister at age fourteen. And it was pretty rad. My experiences in the Boy Scouts allowed me to somehow talk my way into a gear shop job at 16, at a local shop in Eugene. Everyone else who worked there was a student at the University of Oregon, in their outdoor program, so there was always somebody willing to drag me along on the weekends. So I did a lot of climbing. I kinda grew up at Smith Rock. That led to me completing a NOLS course right out of high school. On his “smash and grab” style of climbing I only got three weeks of vacation a year at Intel. And, if you flip through any Alaska guide book—I remember I got the red one, the Joe Puryear one that everyone gets, when that came out in what ‘07? I think it was?—I remember buying it, flipping through it and just being depressed because every suggested time was two weeks, suggested time one month. I remember thinking I either have to leave Intel or I’m never going to climb in Alaska. And then in 2007 Colin Haley, over his spring break, climbed Mt. Huntington. He happened to be up there, he thought he was going to ice climb, and the weather looked good, so he flew into the Central Range. And I was like, if Colin can do it, you know he just happened to be there when the weather got good, why couldn’t I watch the weather from Portland and fly up when the weather got good? And that’s what we’ve been doing ever since. On the climb that convinced him to start training In the Mid-2000s, I was using Jim Nelson’s Selected Climbs in the Cascades, an excellent guide book. I was just going through there and ticking everything off that I could. I would go down the bookmarks, and think “where was the weather good” “what routes
are near here that Jim says are good,” I’m going to do one of those. And there’s one on Mt. Stuart called the “Girth Pillar,” and it’s actually one of the few “true” alpine routes in the Cascades where you actually have to climb up snow and ice, up to water/ice 3 (WI3), to get to the base of this rock climb that’s 9 pitches, up to 5.11 and then you’ve got to scramble to the summit, and then descend the other side. You have to carry over. It’s a pretty committing objective for the Cascades. And we did it. I think we planned on one bivy. We bivvied somewhere on the rock, and then we went up and over the next day. On the way out we were literally two hours to the car, and I remember I was so wrecked I had to lay down and sleep on the trail. And this route was put up in the ‘80s, you know, it was not some cutting edge route. I realized that if I want to do harder routes than this, and maybe do first ascents someday, I need to get my s**t together. Because up to that point, all I really had done was trail run and go to the rock gym, which is, what everybody does in the beginning.
On his long time ties to the Portland Alpine Fest If you really go back, nine years ago or so, my climbing partner and I, Marcus Donaldson, wanted to find more people to carpool with us to Bozeman, because it’s the closest place to climb ice in the winter that’s “in” all winter. We started talking about having a party, and Marcus was like well you have that woody in your garage, we’ll have a bouldering competition, or something like that. We got to talking and one thing turned into another, and I probably got a little carried away, but I said, “we should just see if the Portland Rock Gym (PRG) will let us do an indoor dry tool comp in their gym.” So we went and saw Gary Rall (owner of PRG), and he’s a really nice guy, but he thought we were crazy when we said we wanted to bring ice tools into his rock gym. John’s Festival Schedule:
But somehow we talked him into doing it. We called it the Portland Ice Festival, and made it a fundraiser to give back to the local community. We had over a hundred people show up! It ended up being one of the biggest days at PRG all year. We raised a bunch of money, and a lot of people who had never even touched ice tools tried it for the first time. So that summer, Gary called me and said, we’re doing it again this year right? And I was like, I guess so. We did it for seven years. I would hassle the local shops for donations, I’d hassle my contacts, people I know that worked at different companies, and every year it would be crazy. Every year I’d be say this is the last one because it was just Marcus and I doing it, and I was getting burnt out. Then Lee Davis, Mazamas Executive Director, approached me and asked what I thought about the Mazamas helping out, and taking it over? I told him that as long as they stayed true to why we organized it in the first place, which was to get the community together, hopefully get them excited about ice climbing, and raise some money for local organizations, then fine with me. So I handed it off. The Mazamas obviously have a lot more resources at their disposal than I do, and they’ve incorporated the the Ice Fest into the Alpine Festival, and now it’s this giant week-long celebration. They’re doing more with it than I ever could, and it’s just great to see.
▶▶ Nov. 17–Blue Collar Beatdown (Speaker Series) ▶▶ Nov. 18–Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 19–Intermediate Ice/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 19–Training for Alpine Climbing (Seminar) ▶▶ Nov. 20–Intermediate Ice/Advanced Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic)
Get Tickets Online Today! portlandalpinefest.org
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Scott ADAMSON What drives you? I’ll find some peak, and whether it’s been climbed or not, I look for the harder line on it, or the line that’s more aesthetic to me. What draws me is looking down past my feet at my belayer, and not out over my shoulder at my belayer, if that makes sense. The exposure is what draws me, I guess. I actually find it safer when it’s steep. I just recently took like a hundred foot fall in Pakistan. And the thing that saved me was the steepness of the face. You didn’t have anything to hit? I hit one ledge and then fell another 70 feet. This just happened a couple months ago, I haven’t written about it yet. We were looking at doing The Ogre 2, the north face, that hadn’t been done. Really steep face. We got probably threequarters of the route done. I just pitched off, randomly, like could have happened in my own backyard climbing area. It happened at night, and I think we were at 6,600 meters. Somewhere in there. When you fell what was going through your head? Did you think it was going to be bad? It seemed pretty bad. I didn’t have gear for quite a ways. I had gear out of the belay and up to this group system, and then it starting ramping out a little bit. And I couldn’t find any gear, it was all polished. Like granite. And I was looking for a belay in the dark, and like I said, tools came out. It was like a rotten ice corner, so I didn’t have much gear in. But when I was flying through the air, I was thinking, “oh man, I hope my gear stops me. I hope I don’t pull the whole belay out, and you know, kill my climbing partner.” But it all came to halt. And I was looking up at my climbing partner, Kyle, in the dark. Looking at his headlamp looking down at me. It was pretty wild. I think cutting edge stuff is what drives me for sure. The adventure has to be there. It’s gotta be this winding steep ice line, or some kind of mixed, daggery terrain. Taking all of the years honing those skills, I feel like I owe it to myself to be getting onto terrain that I am capable of.
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Scott Adamson ice climbing in Zion. Photo: Jeremiah Watt.
Have you ever given up on a route? Have you ever done a route, and not gotten it done, and said, “Man, I’m done with that. I’m not going up there again”? I have, and then it creeps right back. I have a route in Kyrgstan that I’d like to go finish, that people keep trying. I went out there in 2004, and just got backhanded right off the thing. It’s around 5,000 feet of water/ice. It’s an awesome route. But when I left, I felt like I had bitten off a little bit more than I could chew. That was more than ten years ago, and now I’m already thinking, “Hey I need to go back and finish that route. I think it’s time.” But at the time, I was thinking, “NO WAY will I ever come back.” I was with my brother also, and he got frostbite. I got hypothermia. It didn’t go well. We went home with our tails between our legs. Maybe I know the mountain a little bit better, now. Back then, there was one kind of climbing for me. It was just turn it on and go. But I feel like now I can adapt a little bit better to situations. Before I didn’t know that there were situations that I Scott Adamson’s Festival Schedule:
needed to adapt to. So I feel like I can go back and give it some more throttle, now.
Alpine or rock? If you had to pick one. Alpine. Now I mostly rock climb, so that in the hills I can climb strong. I love climbing desert towers, but at the end of the day, it’s not absolutely satisfying for me. And even then, just like roadside ice and mixed climbing, it’s great to get dialed and kind of sharpen your teeth, but it still doesn’t have it all for me. We’re all really excited to have you at the Portland Alpine Fest. I’m really looking forward to it. You’ll be psyched on this Zion Ice climbing. It’s some rad stuff that we’ve been getting into. There was a film that came out that wasn’t really the story, or what was actually going on. So it’s going to be really cool to give this slide show. We’re letting the cat out of the bag on this one. It’s been a secret little deal. But we’re ready to put it out there. It’s a pretty wild zone. It’s totally wild.
▶▶ Nov. 18–Crack Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 19–Crack Climbing (Clinic) ▶▶ Nov. 19–Zion Ice: Purdy Dam Western (Speaker Series) ▶▶ Nov. 20–Intro to Ice/Mixed Climbing (Clinic)
Get Tickets Online Today! portlandalpinefest.org
The North Face Summit Series. Completely Redesigned for 2015 Made for Alpine Ascents Available Now!
Oregon Mountain Community 2975 NE Sandy Blvd. Porland, OR 97232 503-227-1038
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SUCCESSFUL CLIMBERS August 30, Mt. Whitney, John Muir Trail. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Darin Richardson. John Long, Del Profitt, Karen Suher, Lindsay Putnam Sept. 10, Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Shane Harlson. Luis Gimenez, Bill Guiffre, Slone Pearson, Jeffery Roderick, Scott Sandberg, Kristin Garrett, Josh Miller Sept. 10, Plummer, Pinnacle Saddle. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Lorraine Arvin, Cecille Beyl, Michael Dahlin, Ernest Lindahl, Jason Linse, Larry Murry, Erich Lesser Sept. 12, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Kevin Nelson. Gregg Baker, Erin Beyer, Trevor Hay, Paul Kallmann, Kaitlin Rupert, Mary Ryan, Ben Swerdlow Sept. 12, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Amy Graham, Asst: Paul Underwood. Nicholas Baer, Eric Chapman, Eric Crowley, Mark Fowler, Nicole Gaines, Kimberly Hefty, Craig Karls, Rachel Nolan, Pradheepa Krishnasamy Sept. 12, Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Leader: Robin Wilcox, Asst: Larry Beck. Brett Allin, Lynny Brown, Stephanie Bruckbauer, Liz Crowe, Robert Dormaier, Grant Garrett, Nicholas Nelson, Chris Bumke Sept. 13, Union Peak, West Face. Leader: Paul Underwood, Asst: Amy Graham. Nicholas Baer, Eric Chapman, Eric Crowley, Mark Fowler, Nicole Gaines, Kimberly Hefty, Craig Karls, Rachel Nolan, Prakheepa Krishnasany Sept. 13, Middle Sister, Renfrew Galcier. Leader: Dan Schuster, Asst: Aaron Morgan. Karin Masunari, Jeff Nastoff, Michael O’Brien, Celerina Tinajero, Sharia Ahmed, Seth Dietz, Peter Latriano Sept. 19, Mt. Washington (Or.), North Ridge. Leader: Joseph Eberhardt, Asst: Gary Ballou. Seeger Fisher, Stephen Kingsbury, David
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Kingston, Yevgeniy Mayevskiy, John Rettig, Kris Simbajon, Andrew RoseInnes Sept. 19, Broken Top, NW Ridge. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Steve Scovill. Keith Dechant, Abhishek Dhanotia, Karen Graves, Sabina Grover, Jason Havelka, Andrew Leaf, Anna Revolinsky, Laurel Johnson Sept. 20, North Sister, South Ridge. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Martin Gillen. Tom Dodson, Jean Hillebrand, Jerome Leedy Sept. 25, The Tooth, South Side. Leader: Azure Olson, Asst: Linda A. Mark. Andrew Mcculloch, Carmen Nale, Andrea Ogston, John Wilsnio Sept. 27, Broken Top, Green Lakes. Leader: Rico Micallef, Asst: Jerome Leedy. Dan Codorean, Rachael Pike, Chaitanya Sathe, Daniel Smith, Kevin McVicker, Gowri Parthasarathy Sept. 27, Castle-Pinnacle, Standard. Leader: Jon Major, Asst: Bill Dewsnap. David Baumgarten, Jennifer Cox, Jonathan Myers, Sandee Myers, Dana Knickerbocker Sept. 27, Mt. Washington, North Ridge. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Lynne Pedersen. Bri Berglund, Tracy Gagnon, Meryl Lipman, Meggan Low, Del Profitt, Lisa Romano, Daniel Sherman Sept. 27, Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Matthew Bunza. Patrick Aitchison Erin Beyer, Iddo Kadim, Kevin Nelson, Kaitlin Rupert, Eben Travis Sept. 29, Tomyhoi Peak, standard. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Michael DeLaune, Eric Docherty, Dana Knickerbocker, Kris Simbajon, Mark Stave, Oct. 3, Mt. Thompson, Canyon Creek Lakes. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Lea Wilson. Verna Burden, Kyle Heddy, Lawrence Watercott, Laurel Johnson
AYM
Upcoming Trips & Activities
Join the fun—get involved today!
Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) You may have heard the rumors… the name AYM has returned! Matt Reeder had this to say about the change: “We’re going back to the future! After eighteen months as the “20s & 30s Mazamas, we’ve changed our name back to AYM (Adventurous Young Mazamas) by popular demand. Long live AYM!” While this might not get as much publicity as the formerly named Calvin Broadus Jr. stating “Snoop Lion, Snoop Dogg, DJ Snoopadelic—they only know one thing: make music that’s timeless and bangs,” AYM echoes that sentiment by only offering activities that are fun and enjoyable for adventurers of all ages. There is reliably a good selection of hikes, pub nights, and other trips on the schedule, so check out our page on the Mazama website for the latest details. We want to see you out there!
bluffs overlooking the Columbia. If the weather is clear, there is a viewpoint near the summit with one of the Gorge’s rare Mt. Rainier views. Then our mission will be to locate the colony of garden gnomes, which inhabit the summit. Hike: 7.6 mi lollipop loop, 2,550 ft. elevation gain. Drive: 50 miles round trip. Trip fee: $2/$3 members/ non-members. Suggested gas donation: 10 cents/mile or about $5. Bring rain gear and warm clothing. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, SE corner, 9 a.m. Leader: Keith Dechant (keith.dechant@gmail.com).
FRIDAY, NOV. 27: HIKE—EAGLE CREEK TO SEVENMILE FALLS Work off your Thanksgiving gluttony with the definitive gorge classic! Built in the 1910s to accompany the opening of the Columbia River Highway, the Eagle Creek Trail was blasted out the cliffs with dynamite by Italian engineers. The trail passes several waterfalls as it winds its way up the valley under towering cliffs and through several groves of ancient forest. SATURDAY, OCT. 31: HIKE—DEVIL’S REST We’ll hike beyond Tunnel Falls to Twister It’s Halloween, so where else would Falls, and then to Eagle Creek’s final we go but Devil’s Rest? We’ll start at waterfall, Sevenmile Falls, where we will Wahkeena Falls and hike up past rushing stop for lunch. This is a bucket list hike — streams and two waterfalls up onto the bring a camera! No dogs. This trail is not recommended for anybody with a fear of heights. Please bring adequate raingear, we’re hiking, rain or shine (but the trip will be sunnyfreeman@windermere.com canceled if there is SunnyFreemanHomes.com any threat of ice/ twitter.com/sfreemanhomes
Sunny Freeman
Eagle Creek. Photo: Matt Reeder
snow). We may stop for food in Cascade Locks after the hike. Hike: 13 miles, 1,300 feet. Drive: 70 miles. Meet at Gateway Transit Center at 8 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder (mareede@gmail.com). Limited to 12; email leader to signup. CLIMB NIGHT AT PLANET GRANITE ▶▶ Where: Planet Granite (1405 NW 14th Ave) ▶▶ When: Third Tuesday of the month, 6:30–9 p.m. Dates for 2015–16: Nov. 17, Dec. 15, Jan. 19, and Feb. 16. ▶▶ Cost: $18/person; harness and shoe rental available at additional cost. ▶▶ Questions: Contact Kristin Dreves through the Climb Night page on the Mazama website
Want to get more involved? AYM is looking for Climb Night Hosts and Hike Leaders: CLIMB NIGHT HOSTS Indoor rock climbing is held oncea-month throughout the winter for all Mazama members and non-members, regardless of age or climbing ability. Hosts welcome newcomers, encourage safe climbing, and help people to pair up as belay partners. HIKE LEADERS Do you like leading hikes? Maybe you’d like to plan a trip for caving, backpacking, skiing, orienteering, or trail running! Becoming an activity leader takes just few steps - become a Mazamas Member, lead a provisional activity & get First Aid certified.
Your Mazama Realtor NOVEMBER 2015
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EVENING TRAVEL PROGRAMS
Exciting Evening Adventures!
We appreciate voluntary contributions at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking, and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: John Leary (Chair), Dyanne Foster, Ben Jones, Sharon Leary and Nancy Bentley.
Wednesday Programs begin at 7 p.m., and are free and open to Mazamas and the general public. Wild at Heart in the Columbia River Gorge–Nov. 4 Acclaimed landscape photographer Peter Marbach will share stories about images that reflect the value of wildness in everyday life from places off trail in the Columbia River Gorge. Marbach will also give a brief update on the earthquake recovery efforts in Kumari Nepal from his recent trip to help in home rebuilding efforts and will have his new book on the Columbia River Gorge available to purchase and to sign before and after the lecture.
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The Mountains Will Wait For You–Nov. 11 Please join Portland filmmaker, Fred Schwoebel, for a screening of his documentary The Mountains Will Wait For You. The film returns the audience to the sanity of a less frenzied world and a moment in time when people were inspired by one woman to write from their hearts about personal wilderness experiences in letters crafted with the same attention to detail that guides the sculptor’s hand. With the narration of music legend Johnny Cash setting the woodsy tone for the film, pulses slow, breathing calms, and director Fred Schwoebel begins taking us on a journey back to the last decade of the 20th Century, transporting the audience to a rustic, eclectically decorated cabin poised on the shore of a small lake in upstate New York, at the very edge of the ancient Adirondack mountains.
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Nepal Reflections–Nov. 18 Part of the Portland Alpine Fest; $12 at the door
Stuck on Annapurna after a massive 7.8 earthquake rocked Nepal, Scott Rogers and his team of climbers made their way back down to lower altitudes to help with the immediate relief needs of the many villages effected by the disaster. From helping distribute food and build temporary shelters, to joining in a massive project delivering 65 tons of food over a 17,000 foot pass, Scott witnessed first-hand both the good and the bad of the aid industry, as well as the sheer determination and resiliency of the Nepalese people. He will share stories and footage of the earthquake, the rebuilding process, and describe how the raw human interaction left a remarkable and lasting effect on his life. Scott is an adventure photographer and athlete who has been featured as a contributing photographer for numerous publications, including the New York Times and Outside magazine. In 2013, his work received a Sports Emmy Nomination for Best Camerawork. (You may purchase tickets in advance at: portlandalpinefest.org.)
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Shavasana in Mongolia–Dec. 2 Mazama BCEP graduate and AYM Hike Leader Ashley Michael Karitis traveled to Mongolia alone, for six weeks, and without a guide or language translator. Her spiritual pilgrimage involved living with traditional herders on the Steppe and Dukha indigenous communities in the Mongolian Taiga.
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KIDS CORNER by Elijah Hiltebrand, age 12
IMPRESSIONS OF AN EXPERIENCED CLIMB LEADER ABOUT FAMILY MOUNTAINEERING 101 by John Blanck I had the privilege of helping set up anchors and instructing for the Families Mountaineering 101 field session at Horsethief Butte in September. As a climb leader whose favorite activities have centered on leading BCEP groups for 15 years, and as a public school principal, I had a unique opportunity to see how mountaineering instruction could blend with a family-based experience. I wouldn’t have believed it unless I had actually experienced it myself: seeing a 6-year-old boy confidently and competently belaying a climber up a natural rock pitch, with me providing only a back-up hold on the brake side of the rope. I was amazed, and clearly this remarkable feat is the result of obviously good instruction! My memories of the weekend field session of FM101 include many outstanding achievements only one month into the class. I witnessed youth students demonstrating command of the climbing skills needed for a successful day at the crag: ▶▶ independently tying a rewoven figure eight knot to their harness; ▶▶ checking harnesses for safety before climbing and belaying; ▶▶ consistently using climb and belay signals to BCEP standards; ▶▶ vocally encouraging adults, their parents and other kids that “you can do it!” through the crux move on a pitch; ▶▶ executing a clove hitch to the anchor shelf to secure their belay stance; ▶▶ parents and children all attempting a variety of climbing challenges, sometimes outside their comfort level, showing their commitment to full family participation;
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▶▶ activities such as climbing “slingshot” and belayed from above, on a fixed line with a prusik, and on a friction slab. In every part of the day, I saw skill levels equal to or surpassing what I am accustomed to from BCEP students, and I have to admit my awe that the students all did this after very short instructions given in a lecture and a single session on the rock wall at the MMC. Whenever I was instructing at the climbing stations, the children paid close attention and immediately incorporated the suggested refinements; the adults often expressed surprise and pride in their new-found skills. After seeing the incredibly detailed and thoughtful preparation by the coordinators, the highly capable instruction by volunteer assistants, and the dedicated performance of the students, I would like to encourage: ▶▶ Climb Leaders to volunteer for easy and satisfying participation in the field sessions, which will make them smile and enjoy the pure awe of watching new skills being honed by entire families. ▶▶ Families looking for an way to learn and grow into climbing together to sign up for the next offering of this class and take advantage of this incredible experience. ▶▶ Club members to congratulate the past and present coordinators of this class, which is one of exceptional value, skill, and clarity. I was unable to participate in the overnight camping, potluck, or preliminary activities for the class, but I loved the time I spent with these wonderfully supportive parent and child students. I am looking forward to more climbing and learning together with them.
In the FM101 class, you are taught necessary skills for climbing. So far, the main skills we’ve learned are climbing knots and slingshot belay. FM101 is basically a family oriented version of BCEP throughout a 9-month period, open to younger kids and for both Mazama members and non-members. The FM101 class is a great opportunity to meet people and learn in an interactive and fun way. We practice at lots of places, but the most recent was Horsethief Butte. We were paired up in partners which is a great way to build trust with new friends. On the first day, we were in a small canyon with fixed lines, top ropes and stations set up all around for practice. After we were assigned a partner, we were assigned a station. We went station to station, from fixed line travel, belay from above and so on. After both you and your partner were done you would move on. After completing activities we got a gold star, basically like an accomplishment. After we were done climbing we went to a campground and set up camp, all the kids hung out and played games in the field and forest while adults talked and cooked. Everyone enjoyed the campground and the night was great. The next day we packed up and left the campground, we went back to Horsethief. This day we practiced at the amphitheater instead of the canyon. That day was the same as the next with almost everyone getting their third star on knots and belay.
THE SHIFT PLEDGE I will:
SHIFT: OUTDOOR RECREATION & CONSERVATION TEAM UP
Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM)
Scott Auble—Mt. Hood Katelyn Bailey—Mt. St. Helens Lindsey Benjamin—Mt. St. Helens Jennifer Berry—South Sister Laetitia Bruneau—South Sister Jimmy Cleveland—Mt. Hood Kjersten Criss—Mt. Adams Erinn Criswell—South Sister Teresa Dalsager—Mt. Hood Paul Dawson—South Sister Bud Erland—Mt. Hood Lily Frey—Kilimanjaro Lara Friesen—Mt. Hood Ali Gray—Mt. St. Helens Katy Hagert—Mt. St. Helens Townsend Hyatt—Mt. Hood Andreas Jauschneg—Mt. St. Helens Chris Jensen—Mt. Hood Evan Kelly—Mt. St. Helens Cindy Kirk—South Sister Daniel Koester—Mt. Shuksan Phil Lamb—South Sister Venkata Sitaram Lankalapalli—South Sister Marine Leroy—South Sister Stephen Lezak—Mt. Adams
Chanda Littlefield—Mt. St. Helens Dustin Locke—Mt. Adams Erin Looper—South Sister Mikki Manfredonia—Mt. St. Helens Sarah Mecheski—South Sister Nathan Miller—Mt. St. Helens Charles Pappas—Mt. Rainier Amy Polo—Mt. Rainier Aaron Riffenburgh Kirby—Mont Blanc Tristan Rivers—Mt. Shuksan Jeffery Roderick—Mt. St. Helens Laura Rumford—South Sister Leah Rumford—South Sister Mark Rumford—South Sister Samantha Rumford—South Sister Edin Sijercic—Mt. Adams Caitlin Smigelski—Cotopaxi Eric Snell—South Sister Michael Snell—South Sister Stacu Stokes—Mt. Daniel Riley Talbot—Mt. St. Helens Kalen Turner—Old Snowy Lauren Walker—Mt. St. Helens Gordy Winterrowd—Mt. Hood Nicole Zapata—Mt. St. Helens
Reinstated: Charles Lief (2008), Joseph York (2010) Deceased: Eb Giesecke (1948), Thomas Kennedy (1953), Harvey Schmidt (1985), Don Watne (1983) W
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A Mazama committee providing support services to Mazamas. If you or your group have had a traumatic experience contact the Mazama office (503-227-2345) or Marina Wynton. All debriefs conducted through CISM are confidential.
Welcome New Mazamas!
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October’s Bulletin included the article New Conservation Challenges Call for New Strategies by Alicia Imbody which called for a meeting on Nov. 11. This meeting has been cancelled, and instead the Conservation Committee would like to invite all interested Mazamas to attend the November Conservation Committee meeting on Monday, Nov. 23. The meeting’s focus is to provide background information to interested parties about projects the committee is currently working on as well as some history about past activities. This will be a great opportunity to gain insight about the history of the committee’s work over the past years and allow members to become either actively involved in the future as a member of the committee or be well informed as a “friend of the committee.”
Sept
CONSERVATION COMMITTEE MEETING UPDATE
REI
Last month, outdoor recreationists such as climbers, hikers, skiers, paddlers and fly fishermen from throughout the U.S. gathered in Jackson Hole, Wyoming to discuss the future of the Conservation movement at the 3rd annual SHIFT conference. The goal of this event was to leverage outdoor recreation for Conservation gains. The Mazamas Executive Director, Lee Davis and I were part of this gathering. We joined our partners from the Wilderness Society (who helped fund our travel), the Mountaineers, REI and Outdoor Alliance, to name a few, in discussing threats to environmental conservation. Land management agencies such as the National Parks Service, Forest Service and even Oregon State Parks were represented as well. The SHIFT conference takes place at an important moment in time when the threats to Conservation are greater than ever. Global warming, population growth, an aging Conservation demographic and the public lands heist were all
topics discussed in detail. SHIFT helped many outdoor enthusiasts understand the intersection between their activities and the need for protecting wild places. The concept is basic. Climbers and other human-powered recreationists need to coalesce and fight for the places they love. A key part of the conference was the SHIFT Pledge that incorporates six principles for advancing outdoor recreation and conservation. These principles were developed in June 2015 in Grand Teton National Park at the Murie Center by fifteen recreationists, conservation advocates and public land managers. As a pledge to protect America’s outdoor heritage, SHIFT conference organizers encouraged participants to use social media to “take the pledge.” The result was an online “viral” event that reached more than 1 million people. As Mazamas continue to look for ways to strengthen the Conservation movement we can leverage our climbers, hikers, backpackers and trail runners to take the SHIFT pledge and use its principles to further dialogue and inspire action.
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by Adam Baylor, Mazamas Stewardship & Advocacy Manager
▶▶ FIGHT for our public lands and waters ▶▶ PRACTICE responsible recreation that’s inclusive and informed by a conservation ethic ▶▶ MINIMIZE my impacts and my conflicts with other users ▶▶ CONTRIBUTE solutions to landmanagement, conservation and recreation problems ▶▶ RESPECT landmanagement rules and regulations ▶▶ SUPPORT long-term funding solutions that protect the environment and advance responsible recreation
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CLASSIC MAZAMAS
For members with 25 years or more of membership or for those who prefer to travel at a more leisurely pace Share years of happy Mazama memories with our group. All ages are welcome to join the fun. CONTACTING THE CLASSICS ▶▶ Rose Marie Gilbert, 503-762-2357, gilbertrosemarie@ centurylink.net (chair) ▶▶ Kate Evans, 503-635-6540, kateevans97@gmail.com (EC Liaison) ▶▶ Main email: classics@ mazamas.org. If you are interested in leading an event in December please contact Rose Marie Gilbert, Nov. 12. WED. NOV. 11: OLD SALMON RIVER WALK Walk about one mile downstream from where the river meets Salmon River Road at a rock cliff (about five miles from the Welches grade school), then return to the cars for lunch. After lunch we will walk about half a mile to the road bridge and back to the cars. Distance: ~3.2 miles. Meet to carpool to the trailhead at the Hoodland Senior Center, 65000 E. Highway 26, at 10 a.m. This used to be the Forest Service and Clackamas County Area Information Center and is
located on the left side of the entrance to the Mt. Hood RV Center. You can catch the Mt. Hood Express bus at the Sandy Forest Service office bus stop at 9:15 a.m. on highway 26; it arrives at the Senior Center at 9:45 a.m. Leader: Kurt Kessler 503-622-3524. WED. NOV. 11: PRE-PROGRAM POTLUCK Enjoy a pre-program potluck (snacks or dessert) before Fred Schwoebel’s screening of The Mountains Will Wait for You, a documentary about Grace Hadowalski of the Adirondacks, “the last of a generation of wilderness prophets” and early mountain stewards. Schwoebel will be there for Q and A. Host: Diana Forester. MMC, room 3, 6:15 p.m. SAT. NOV. 21: THE SUMMIT, OREGON CONVENTION CENTER At the climax of the Portland Alpine Fest come hear Jim Whittaker, first American to summit Mt. Everest, and Alex Honnold, best known for free soloing big walls. Formerly known as the Annual Celebration, this event includes food, drinks, a silent auction, and the Mazama
annual awards. There will also be Classics tables for folks to socialize. MON. DEC. 7: CLASSICS MEETING Are you interested in becoming more involved in the Classics? We could use your energy, enthusiasm, and assistance. We’ll be discussing the Dec. 11 holiday party and other winter events. Location: Mazama Mountaineering Center, Room 3, 1 p.m. FRI. DEC. 11, THIRD ANNUAL HOLIDAY LUNCHEON We are having our Third Annual Holiday Luncheon at the Mazama Mountaineering Center on Friday, Dec. 11 at noon. This is an opportunity to mingle and visit with fellow Classic Mazamas and MMC staff, and to eat a wonderful lunch. A short program will include recognizing and awarding pins to new 25-year and 50-year members. This year we are asking for a suggested donation of $5 to cover half the cost of the lunch. To help us determine food needs and seating requirements, please RSVP by Monday, Dec. 7 to Dyanne Foster at 503-267-8937 or dyfozter@gmail.com.
Whether you are a lifelong Mazama member, currently enrolled in the Basic Climbing Education Program, reading this Bulletin at your local climbing shop, or somewhere in between, you should make sure you know all of the benefits of Mazama membership. Go here to learn more: Are you ready to join? Get all the details on how to become a member of one of the oldest mountaineering organizations in the country: mazamas.org/join
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Your Home on the Mountain LOCKER RENTALS. If you have not paid your annual locker rental fee ($25) by Nov. 1, your payment is now past due. Make sure you let us know what locker or lockers are yours when you send in your payments. We also rent lockers by the day for only $2. We still have lockers available. THANKSGIVING The lodge will open at noon on Thanksgiving. At 1 p.m. the Trail Trips committee will lead a hike or snowshoe (depending on the weather) from the lodge, returning by 4 p.m. in time for appetizers and the dinner at 5 p.m. Dinner: $22 for adults/$13.25 for kids 12 and under. Kids under 2 eat free! You have a fabulous feast in store for you this year. Guests can bring their own adult beverage on Thanksgiving to be served with dinner at our otherwise “dry” lodge.
▶▶ Vegetable Crudite with Selection of Dips (Vegan) ▶▶ Smoke Salmon Cheese Spread ▶▶ Mixed Green Salad with Sun-dried Cranberry and Toasted Almond Vinaigrette ▶▶ Garlic Mashed Potatoes ▶▶ Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Spanish Onions ▶▶ Cornbread Stuffing and Cranberry Sauce ▶▶ Adam’s Homemade Rolls ▶▶ Oregon Turkeys with Giblet Gravy ▶▶ Apple Pie and Pumpkin Pie with Whip Cream
MAZAMA LODGE
New caretaker Adam Jchoff shows off his pound cake. Drawing: Superhero character, Caretaker Adam, as he tackles the lodge cleaning duties, by Mazama member Chloe Barker, age 13.
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ADVENTURE TRAVEL— FOREIGN & DOMESTIC
Enjoy affordable adventure travel with qualified trip leaders in 2016 NORTH TO ALASKA 2016 March 5–12, 2016
This outing travels to Talkeetna, Alaska and uses a beautiful log lodge as a base for late winter activities in the foothills south of Denali. The trip this year overlaps with the start of the Iditarod and the plan is to attend the restart of the Iditarod in Willow on March 6. The group will meet in Anchorage and use rental vehicles to drive to Talkeetna. In Talkeetna and the surrounding area, there will be opportunities for XC skiing, snow shoeing, aurora watching, learning about dog mushing and the Iditarod, photography, meeting locals, learning about Denali mountaineering history and the role Talkeetna plays in modern mountaineering in the Alaskan Range. There will likely be an optional air taxi flight around
Denali, with glacier landing in the Ruth Gorge. Group participants can arrive earlier in Anchorage to attend Iditarod and Fur Rondy activities. Deposit of $600 covers Talkeetna housing, ground transportation during the outing, half of food costs and the outing fee. Participants are responsible for airfare, Anchorage housing, all restaurant meals, equipment rentals and extra activities. Signup deadline Feb 1, 2016. Individuals interested in joining the Outing, need to contact Tom Bennett at nordlystom@ gmail.com Please let Tom know why you want to attend and what special skill set you bring to help us have a fun and rewarding trip for all participants. Age 21 and over.
Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information. Forms you will need: application, liability release, and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—seattlemountaineers. org, Colorado Mountain Club—cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—outdoors. org, and the American Alpine Club— americanalpineclub.org. “As an incentive for leaders to put in the time and effort to arrange and lead outings, the leader and assistant leader costs may be paid by the participants.”
There were more than 85 Mazama members who participated in the first Tilikum Bridge Crossing Ramble! Photo: Daniel Van Rossen.
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NOVEMBER 2015
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Getting Back To Our Roots
Bob Wilson Expedition Grants by Lacy Turner Rebecca Schob and Brad Farra are counting down to their mid-December departure for a four-week climbing expedition in Patagonia; Next summer, Katie Mills will lead a team into the remote and rarely climbed Arrigetch Peaks in Alaska. These expeditions are the first two recipients ( for 2015 and 2016) of the Bob Wilson Expedition Grants, created to renew and re-inspire the Mazamas’ famed culture of exploratory climbing. The Wilson Grants were established in recognition of Robert A. Wilson. Bob joined the Mazamas in 1962, chaired the Expedition Committee, and led a long career of climbing and expedition mountaineering with the Mazamas; including trips to eight-thousanders Annapurna 1 and Gasherbrum 1, the first American ascent (with an all-Mazama team) of Tirich Mir, the highest mountain in the world outside of the HimalayasKarakoram range, Mt. McKinley and too many other expeditions and mountains to list here. Suffice it to say, Bob had a fantastic run climbing and exploring, and with his wealth of experience and positivity continues to be an active influence in the Mazamas. Now, with his financial support, Bob Wilson is making it possible for others to experience the joy of expedition climbing. The Mazamas have historically been leaders in exploring and climbing the high and isolated mountain ranges of the world, and the Wilson Grants are designed to build upon this legacy. The grants specifically encourage expeditions to “remote or less popular areas” where the climbers are “immersed in local cultures.” Teams may employ local support but commercially organized and guided trips do not qualify; nor do quick in-and-out trips. Expeditions of less than 15 days will not be considered. The Wilson Grants are also intended to reward our most dedicated and engaged members, and help them develop their expedition climbing skills.
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This all-Mazama team celebrated their 1982 climb of Tirich Mir (the first American ascent). From left: Bob Wilson, Lath Flanagan, Tom Gordon, Dennis Olmstead, Terry Jones, Allan Webb and John Smolich. Photo: Jon Dasler.
Granted, the recipients of the 2015 Bob Wilson Grant hope to summit Patagonia’s two best known mountains: Cerro Torre is on every alpine climber’s dream list; Mt. Fitz Roy’s unearthly shape is the iconic symbol for all of Patagonia (and a clothing logo). What makes their trip an expedition in the truest sense of the word is the fact that Brad Farra and Rebecca Schob will be completely self-supported, requiring a long and complicated planning process. (They’ve been at it for over a year.) They hope to get on ice, mixed, and rock routes but face a number of wild cards, including the condition of the famous frost pitches (mushroom ice) on Cerro Torre’s Ragni route and the infamously treacherous weather on FitzRoy. Will Rebecca and Brad spend Christmas in their tent waiting out dangerous weather? Watch the Bulletin for an article and slide show; grant recipients are expected to present both within a year of returning. In her grant application, Katie Mills likens climbing in the Arrigetch Peaks to having all the peaks in Yosemite all to yourself. Except that the Arrigetch are remote and largely unexplored, summer in the Brooks Range of Alaska may last all of
three weeks (the length of the expedition), and the mosquitoes can carry off small pets. The Bob Wilson Grant recipients for 2016 are Katie Mills, Todd Torres, Nick Pappas and Cigdem Milobinski. Their “Inquisition of the Arrigetch” expedition might very well include first ascents of routes on Albatross, Badille and Shot Tower. According to Katie Mills: “Being able to pick our own line of weaknesses to ascend into the unknown is quite an irresistible challenge. For my team and me this constitutes the trip of a lifetime.” Are you a highly involved Mazama, with a mountain range you have always dreamed of exploring and climbing? A total of $10,000 is available annually through the Mazama Bob Wilson Expedition Grants. For 2017 expeditions, applications must be received by July 4, 2016. This article has touched in the most general way on some of the qualifications. We encourage you to get the details (and an application form) online: mazamas.org/resources/mazamabob-wilson-expedition-grants/ or contact the expedition committee at expedition@ mazamas.org
Getting more
s n i a t n u o as in the m
Mazam
via Expedition Grants
If you’re dreaming about a climbing trip/ expedition next year, how about letting the Mazamas help make it happen? The Expedition Committee can help financially with a grant, loaner gear, and training. Don’t let the word “expedition” intimidate you. This year we are also looking to offer grants for climbing trips not necessarily considered an “expedition.” The intent is to help create an opportunity for Mazamas to gain experience, and develop the skills and confidence to lead bigger trips in the future. The deadline to submit an application for a Mazama Expedition Grant is rapidly approaching. Go to the Mazamas website and select Resources/Grants/Expedition Grants to submit your application by Dec. 31, 2015. For information and/or questions, email the expedition committee at expedition@ mazamas.org.
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Mazama Nordic Ski School 2015–16 CLASSIC CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING Matching students’ skills to the appropriate class helps to ensure a safe and fun learning experience. Please consider your current skills when choosing your class including: 1) endurance; 2) how balanced and stable you feel on skis; 3) number of miles you ski; and 4) terrain you are able to ski comfortably BEGINNER ▶▶ Have not skied before ▶▶ Have not skied for a number of years ▶▶ Skiing on gentle hills feels out of control ▶▶ Unable to demonstrate step turn, snow plow and/or diagonal stride ▶▶ Unable to ski 2 miles on varied terrain without falling numerous times NOVICE ▶▶ Skied regularly last season (at least four times out) ▶▶ Able to demonstrate, but not yet mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride ▶▶ Able to ski 3 miles on varied terrain without falling numerous times ▶▶ Able to ski up hills somewhat comfortably INTERMEDIATE ▶▶ Able to ski at least 4 miles on varied terrain comfortably ▶▶ Want to increase skills and efficiency ▶▶ Want to go on longer than 5-mile ski tours ▶▶ Mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride
ADVANCED ▶▶ Mastered step turn, snow plow and diagonal stride ▶▶ Able to comfortably ski 7 or so miles on varying terrain ▶▶ Want to improve rhythm and manage transitions better Note: If you have downhill skiing experience and endurance, but want to learn the basics of Nordic skiing, novice or intermediate class is probably appropriate for you.
For more information and to apply online: mazamas.org/educationclasses/nordic-ski-school/
NORDIC BACKCOUNTRY For those who want to develop the skills and confidence to get off the beaten path. This class will emphasize winter backcountry navigation and negotiating difficult terrain with safety and comfort. Intermediate crosscountry skills and intermediate navigation (map/compass) are required. Note: This is Nordic Backcountry and will not cover Ski Mountaineering skills, which is a separate class.
All classes and class level offerings are based on our qualified volunteer Instructor availability and unpredictable Pacific NW snow conditions. Some classes may need to be rescheduled and/or could be cancelled.
TELEMARK/FREE-HEEL SKIING (NORDIC DOWNHILL) No matter what you call it, this is the ultimate go anywhere set of skiing skills. Uphill, downhill, backcountry, touring—You can go anywhere on any terrain if you can telemark. Using new style tele gear and techniques, gone are the days of deep knee bending and pain ... leaving the ear to ear perma-grin of success and fun.
The Mazamas Telemark Class has four outcomes that our students achieve year after year. You will: Ski the Magic Mile/open terrain/moderately steep, link telemark turns, ski a black diamond and ski through the trees.
Applications are due Dec 6, 2015. A typical ski school season is comprised of three classes that are held on consecutive weekends in January and February, depending on weather conditions and instructor availability. (You choose either all Saturdays or all Sundays)
Our instructors strive to have all their available dates set in time for the mandatory Student Orientation/MeetYour-Instructor, 7 p.m., Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Ave. Tuition: $80 Member/$100 Nonmember. Nordic Downhill (Telemark): $110 Member/$130 Nonmember (lift tickets not included). Questions? Go to mazamas.org to check the Nordic Ski School webpage for more details on class dates, call the MMC at 503-227-2345 or email: mazama.nordic@mazamas.org. See the Volunteer Opportunities page for Information on becoming a Nordic Ski School Instructor!
NORDIC SKI SCHOOL INSTRUCTORS Our instructors are Nordic skiing enthusiasts and volunteer to teach Nordic skiing simply for the love of the sport. They have first aid and CPR certification and receive instructor training, guidelines, and support from the Mazamas. Each class also has at least one assistant instructor (First Aid and CPR encouraged but not required). The Mazamas Nordic Committee reimburses our valued Instructors and Assistants for CPR/First Aid, Mileage and provides professional instructor skill training by Shelley Hakanson & WyEast Nordic in December. Instructors and assistants stay free at Mazama Lodge for this incredible training.
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LEAD INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS ▶▶ Currently Standard First Aid and CPR certified ▶▶ Attend Instructor Orientation annually ▶▶ Attend at least one day of the Instructor Clinic bi-annually ASSISTANT INSTRUCTOR REQUIREMENTS ▶▶ Completed Mazama intermediate level ski class OR recommended by a Mazama Ski instructor ▶▶ Attend Instructor Orientation annually ▶▶ Attend at least one day of the Instructor Clinic bi-annually
IMPORTANT (TENTATIVE) DATES FOR 2015–16 ▶▶ Dec. 1, 2015: Instructor application deadline. Form on website. ▶▶ Dec. 9, 2015, 6:30 p.m.: Mandatory Instructor Orientation. Pizza and beverages provided ▶▶ Dec. 12–13, 2015: Professional Clinic (Attend one or both days if desired.) ▶▶ Jan. 8, 2016, 7 p.m.: Student Orientation at the MMC. ▶▶ Jan. 23, 30, Feb 6 (Sat.) OR Jan. 24, 31, and Feb. 7, 2016 (Sun.): Nordic classes
If interested in teaching or assisting, or if you have questions, please contact Kati Mayfield at kati@mazamas.org.
SKI MOUNTAINEERING REGISTRATION NOW OPEN! Want to get off-piste in the backcountry? Mazama Ski Mountaineering is designed to teach you the skills, attitude and awareness necessary to safely enjoy the many backcountry ski opportunities. The focus of this course is on the skills necessary to ascend/descend nontechnical intermediate level ski mountaineering climbs in the Northwest such as Mount St. Helens, Snow Dome on Mt. Hood, or Middle Sister. The format of the class includes a series of lectures and field sessions that cover gear, travel techniques, self-arrest techniques, avalanche awareness, route finding, general mountaineering techniques, weather, and trip planning. This course does NOT cover roped travel, crevasse rescue or advanced skiing/snowboard skills. COURSE ESSENTIALS: ▶▶ Dates: Jan. 4–Feb. 29, and consists of 7 lectures, 4 field sessions, and 4 tours ▶▶ Requirements: The course is open to randonee and telemark skiers, as well as split-boarders. Applicants must be competent intermediate to advanced level skiers, comfortable with off-piste skiing and linking turns on downhill slopes. Students should be comfortable spending extended periods outdoors engaged in moderate to intensive cardiovascular activity.
▶▶ Tuition: Members, $275; Nonmembers, $325 ▶▶ Questions? Contact the coordinators at mazamas.skimt@gmail.com ▶▶ Apply online at: mazamas.org/educationclasses/ski-mountaineering/. ▶▶ Class size: Limited to 25 students, so apply early!
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TRAIL TRIPS SCHEDULE
Join us! Mazama Trail Trips are open to everyone. Contact Trail Trips Committee chair Regis Krug at 503-704-6642 with any questions. To lead a hike next month, go to: mazamas2.org. CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR UPDATES Leaders may schedule a hike after the Bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location will change. Visit mazamas.org/ activities-events/hike-schedule/ for updates! ADVENTUROUS YOUNG MAZAMAS HIKING Everyone is welcome. See the separate list at mazamas.org/activities-events/aym/ WILDERNESS DESIGNATION Wilderness—Limit 12 indicates that the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area and the group size is limited to 12. STREET RAMBLES Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday. Multiple groups will be led at different paces. Bring a headlamp. 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 feet. Meet at REIPearl, NW 14th and Johnson. Group leaves promptly at 6 p.m.
NEW: HIKE PUNCH CARDS!
Are you a frequent Mazama hiker, or do you know someone who is? The Trail Trips Committee is introducing a punch card system to help activity participants avoid the hassle of carrying cash, and you can save money by purchasing an 11-activity punch card for the price of 10.
COST: ▶▶ Ramble participants under 55: $20 ▶▶ Ramble participants 55 and over: $10 ▶▶ Hike/Snowshoe participants (Mazama members): $20 ▶▶ Hike/Snowshoe participants (nonmembers): $40
The punch cards are available beginning Nov. 1 at the MMC during normal business hours, or from Trail Trips Leaders who choose to sell them. At this time punch cards apply only to Mazama Trail Trips ramble, hike, and snowshoe activities. Punch cards may be introduced later by Families, AYM, and Classics.
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HK B2 Nov 01 (Sun) Indian Mountain via PCT. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Great Hike above Wahtum Lake. Sweeping views of the gorge and Mt. Hood and forest to the north 9 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 170 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Nov 01 (Sun) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. This hike has some of the more scenic vistas in the gorge and we should still see some fall colors. 9 miles 3,450 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Nov 04 (Wed) Mt. Hamilton Loop. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. “Most difficult” trail up & lunch on the summit. Discover pass for drivers. 7.6 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 88 TH MMC 8:30 a.m. HK C2 Nov 06 (Fri) Cool Creek/ Devils Lookout/Hunchback Mtn Trails. William O’Brien. 503679-5194 or wobobr123@yahoo. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Great workout hike up to Devils Lookout where we will have lunch enjoy the views of Mts. Hood and Jefferson includes a decommissioned fire lookout. We will return via the Hunchback Mountain trail stopping at the Pyramid viewpoint then down to Zig Zag Ranger Station. Please bring a headlamp. This hike involves a car shuttle. 12.6 miles 3,200ft ft. Dr. 84 MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Nov 07 (Sat) Dog River Trail. Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier.com or 503-665-6778. Located south of Hood River, this pleasant outand back hike moves through an ever-changing forest to great views of Mt. Hood’s (generally, drier) east side. 7 miles 1,500 ft. Dr. 140 TH Lewis & Clark State Park 9 a.m. HK A1.5 Nov 07 (Sat) Laurel Hill. Flora Huber 503-658-5710. Laurel Hill and the falls across 26 above the Kiwanis Camp are about 3 miles with maybe 300 elevation gain. 3 miles 300 ft. Dr. 100 Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Nov 07 (Sat) Cape Horn. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. With leaves off, except a few colorful ones hanging on, this is a great November hike. Nice views and back to Gateway by 3 p.m. Dress
for bad weather and hope for good. 7 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m. MU HK C2.5 Nov 07 (Sat) Dublin Lake. Dyanne Foster 503 2678937. Wilderness—Limit 12. Let’s enjoy the sweeping moderate foot friendly Tanner Butte trail then down to Dublin Lake— maybe mushroom time! If time and group agrees, may go to Wauna Point. 13.8 miles 3,760 ft. Dr. 70 Gateway 8 a.m. HK A2 Nov 08 (Sun) Mt. Talbert/Mt. Scott Loop-Urban Hike. Meg Linza 503-502-8782. From the TH we go up and over Mt. Talbert, down to a nice bridge then cross Sunnyside and go up the stairs to the top of Mt. Scott. We head through a neighborhood down a trail back through the forest and then back up and over Mt. Talbert to our cars. Bring sturdy hiking shoes, one pole and be prepared for the potential showers. The trail is often muddy this time of year. 7.5 miles 650 ft. Dr. None 10945 SE Mather Rd, Clackamas, OR 97015 9 a.m. HK B2 Nov 08 (Sun) Christmas Ornaments Trail. Bill Stein 503-830-0817. Let’s prepare the Christmas Ornaments Trail for those who reach it during the holidays. Please consider bringing a weather-friendly holiday ornament, along with a hook or hanging wire. A short distance away, we’ll take a break outside Nesika Lodge before returning to Multnomah Falls. Be prepared for rain, wind, and/ or cold. 8 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Nov 08 (Sun) Lookout Mountain from Hwy 35. Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This hike west of Mt. Hood is a different ecosystem from the mossy gorge. It’s drier and more likely to be in the sun in November. 10.4 miles 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Nov 09 (Mon) Linnton Loop Hike. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@gmail.com. A refreshing morning hike starts near Linnton, and travels through the shady Forest Park trees for a new and different perspective. 5.2 miles 930 ft. Dr. 0 Linnton TH (For additional
info, check out http://www. oregonhikers.org/field_guide/ Linnton_Loop_Hike) 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 10 (Tue) BPA Road-Newton Road Loop. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@ gmail.com. Varied loop hike with spurs at the north end of Forest Park that rarely receives attention. 8.1 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 0 BPA Road on HWY 30 (portlandhikersfieldguide.org/ wiki/BPA_Road_Trailhead) 8:30 a.m. MU HK B2 Nov 11 (Wed) Hardy Ridge. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Great loop trail climbing along the ridge above Hardy Creek to Phlox Point where we lunch. Discover pass NOT required for drivers on this Veterans Day. 8.4 miles 2,300 ft. Dr. 88 TH MMC 8:30 a.m. HK B2 Nov 13 (Fri) Silver Falls State Park—Perimeter Loop. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. Nice alternative to the more popular trails. Hike in solitude thru lovely forests on quaint wooden bridges over babbling creeks. $5 fee per vehicle. 10.3 miles 1,750 ft. Dr. 135 MMC 8 a.m. HK A1.5 Nov 14 (Sat) Punch Bowl Falls. Flora Huber 503-6585710. Eagle Creek TH to Punch Bowl Falls and back 4.2 miles 400 ft. Dr. 90 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m. HK A2 Nov 14 (Sat) Wind Mountain. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Enjoy Dog’s little brother— Indian cultural site—Views of Mt. St. Helens, Adams and Hood (weather permitting) 2.7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 94 Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Nov 14 (Sat) Twin Lakes/Bird Butte Loop. David Nelson dkbmnelson@gmail.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. We will begin from Frog Lake Snow Park, join the PCT and head towards the lakes. We’ll enjoy lunch before the 8-mile loop around Bird Butte. Pace will be moderate. Expected hike time is 4-5 hrs. Be prepared for colder weather conditions. Contact leader via email to sign up and for any late changes. 8 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 110 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.
HK C2 Nov 14 (Sat) Table Mountain (West Ridge). Brett Nair 503847-9550. Join me for one of the Columbia Gorge’s hardest and highest elevation hikes. Beautiful views from the summit if we get a clear day. Regardless, this hike will keep your lungs clear and your legs strong. They don’t call it Heartbreak Ridge for nothing. 9 miles 3,450 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 7:30 a.m. MU HK A2.5 Nov 15 (Sun) Eagle Creek (High Bridge). Dan Smith 503-4088923. This is a great short hike to stay in shape. We will go by several waterfalls on the way as well as Punch Bowl. Remember, no cotton! 6.6 miles 700 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2 Nov 15 (Sun) Indian Point via Gorton Creek Trail. Rick Eskridge 503-668- 8200. Wilderness— Limit 12. Good hike to get your blood pumping and raise your spirits— especially when you look straight down on the Columbia R. and Hwy 84 from 2,600 ft. We will go up Nick Eaton and come down Gorton Cr. If the weather turns cold be sure to bring traction devices for your boots. 8.9 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK C2.5 Nov 15 (Sun) Observation Peak ( from Gov’t Mineral Springs). Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com. This hike features big trees and is off the beaten track. Be prepared for rain and or snow. 13.3 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 116 TH Gateway 7 a.m. HK C2 Nov 18 (Wed) Windy Dog. Larry Solomon muensterhump@ hotmail.com. First we’ll climb the Dog via the more scenic route. Then on to Wind Mt. and the historic Indian archaeological and cultural sites. 9.9 miles 4,000 ft. Dr. 98 TH MMC 8 a.m. HK B2 Nov 20 (Fri) Forest Park— BPA/firelanes. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Hike BPA road from Skyline down to Hwy 30 then back up to hike firelanes 13, 12, and 15 to Skyline. Then back down to BPA and up to Skyline and the cars. 7.1 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 30 MMC 9 a.m. HK A2 Nov 21 (Sat) Pittock Mansion via Wildwood Trail. Nancy Goering ngoering@att.net. Parking at Washington Park is $4/ day. We will pickup the Wildwood Trail near the Vietnam Veteran’s Memorial and follow it through the park, past the Japanese Garden and into Hoyt Arboretum. We’ll climb up to Pittock Mansion and take in the view over the city. On return, we’ll
take a more direct route through the Hoyt Arboretum. 5.5 miles 500 ft. Dr. 0 Washington Park Max Station (near bus stop by elevator) 9 a.m. HK B2 Nov 21 (Sat) Gorton CreekNick Eaton Ridge Loop. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. Wilderness— Limit 12. Great winter hike up numerous switchbacks to Nick Eaton Ridge. We’ll connect with Gorton Creek Trail, eat lunch, and enjoy a gentle descent back to the cars. Some beautiful view points going up. Prepare for cold and possible wet or snow conditions. 8 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK A2 Nov 22 (Sun) Mt. Talbert/ Mt. Scott Loop Urban Hike. Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Loop Hike from the TH we go up and over Mt. Talbert, down to a nice bridge then cross Sunnyside and go up the stairs to the top of Mt. Scott. We head through a neighborhood down a trail back through the forest and then back up and over Mt. Talbert to our cars. Bring sturdy hiking shoes, one pole and be prepared for the potential showers. The trail is often muddy this time of year. 7.5 miles 650 ft. Dr. none 10945 SE Mather Rd, Clackamas, OR 97015 9 a.m. HK B2 Nov 22 (Sun) Greenleaf Falls. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Hike through the forest to cascading Greenleaf Falls. Great views of Table Mountain and the ancient landslide above Bonneville Dam. This hike is featured as part of the Portland Alpine Fest. For more information see portlandalpinefest.org. 9 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 90 Gateway Park & Ride 8 a.m. MU HK C2 Nov 22 (Sun) Table Mountain Loop from Aldrich Butte TH. Regis Krug 503-704-6442 regis_krug@mentor.com. We’ll begin at the Aldrich Butte TH and make our way up an old road, eventually connecting with the PCT and the West Ridge Trail. After summiting, we’ll come down Heartbreak Ridge. Be prepared for great views, snow, ice, and rain. This hike is featured as part of the Portland Alpine Fest. For more information see portlandalpinefest. org. 8-9 miles 3,650 ft. Dr. 84 Gateway 7 a.m. MU HK C3 Nov 23 (Mon) Wildwood Trail. Adam Russell russell.adam.m@ gmail.com. This is a thru-hike of the Wildwood Trail. You will need to be in good enough physical shape to
hike 30.1 miles in one day at a pace of 3mph. Please email the trail leader to get info about meet up time, location, details, and for leader to assess physical ability of member. 30.1 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 0 Trailhead 6 a.m. MU
Class A: Easy to moderate; less than 8 miles and under 1,500 feet elevation gain
HK B2 Nov 25 (Wed) Cache Meadows via Cripple Creek Loop Hike. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556 or breunsba@teleport.com. Exploratory—Seldom used trail in the Clackamas River forest along the edge of the Roaring River Wilderness. Features old growth trees, high meadows and small lakes. 11.6 miles 2,845 ft. Dr. 80 MMC 8 a.m.
Class C and Cw: Difficult to strenuous: 15+ miles in distance OR 3,000+ feet elevation gain; Class Cw indicates winter conditions
HK A1.5 Nov 26 (Thu) Latourell Falls Thanksgiving Day Loop. Kelly Marlin mazamamama@frontier. com or 503-665-6778. Hopefully, the weather will be dry enough for some serious leaf-kicking as we pass two pretty waterfalls on this wee gorge loop. Trekking poles might come in handy. Return back to meeting place before noon. 2.3 miles 700 ft. Dr. 30 Lewis & Clark State Park 9 a.m. HK B1.5 Nov 28 (Sat) WahkeenaMultnomah Creeks Loop. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Let’s work off Thanksgiving food by hiking this very popular loop trail. We will start at Multnomah or Wahkeena depending on wind direction---want it at our backs! Hot drinks for purchase at the end. Dress for the weather. 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 48 Gateway 8:30 a.m. MU HK C2 Nov 28 (Sat) Benson Plateau (Herman Creek). Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 or leftfield5@juno.com. Wilderness—Limit 12. Just like many years before we’ll take a post-holiday, pre-winter trek “the easy way” up to Benson Plateau. Some years can be clear and dry but prepare for inclement conditions just in case. 12.8 miles 3,720 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m. HK B2 Nov 29 (Sun) Eagle Creek to Meadows. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556 or breunsba@teleport. com. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is the other Eagle Creek near Estacada. Pleasant hike thru old-growth forest in the Salmon-Huckleberry Wilderness. 9.4 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 70 TH Gateway 8 a.m. HK B2.5 Nov 30 (Mon) Wahkeena Falls to Devil’s Rest. Kate Evans 503635-6540. We may take a short detour to Wahkeena Springs on this lovely Gorge hike. 7.2 miles 2,400 ft. Dr. 44 MMC 8 a.m.
UPPER TWIN LAKES BACKPACK Never been backpacking in the winter before? Intimidated by it all? This is your opportunity to give it a try. Beginning at the Frog Lake Sno-Park, we will do an easy 2 mile snowshoe hike up the Pacific Crest Trail to Lower Twin Lakes, where we’ll set up camp. Once we’re settled in, you can relax in camp or explore the area around the lake. After a lazy breakfast on Sunday morning, we’ll snowshoe to Upper Twin Lake and Palmateer Point. If the weather cooperates, we should have clear views of Mt. Hood, Barlow Butte, and the Barlow Creek valley. Then, it’s back to camp, pack up, and head for the trailhead. About 1,500 feet of elevation gain and 9 miles overall. We’ll have a pre-trip meeting in late December or early January to discuss gear and winter backcountry issues. Contact Regis Krug (regis_krug@mentor.com) for more information on this trip.
Class B: Moderate to difficult; less than 15 miles with 1,500–3,000 feet elevation gain OR 8–15 miles with less than 1,500 feet of elevation gain
Class D and Dw: Very difficult, strenuous trips in challenging conditions. No specific distance or elevation gain. Special equipment, conditioning, and experience may be required. Contact leader for details before the day of the trip is mandatory. Dw indicates winter conditions. Numeral after class indicates pace. All pace information is uphill speed range; e.g. 1.5 = 1.5–2 mph: a slow to moderate pace; 2 = 2.0–2.5 mph: a moderate speed common on weekend hikes; 2.5 = 2.5–3.0 mph: a moderate to fast pace and is a conditioner. “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area; group size limited to 12. MU: Hike is posted on Meetup. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant, and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free. Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P and R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); Land C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon Creek P and R–Vancouver P and R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P and R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185–Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass. Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of ten cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho), and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness, or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. Adverse conditions, weather, and combined circumstances can affect difficulty.
NOVEMBER 2015
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EXECUTIVE COUNCIL MINUTES—OCT. 5, 2015 Attending: Steve Hooker, president; Marty Hanson, vice-president; Jon Jurevic, treasurer; John Rettig, secretary; Kate Evans, Sunny Freeman, Chris Kruell, Amy Mendenhall, and Darrell Weston. Staff: Lee Davis, Executive Director, Jamie Anderson, Sarah Bradham. The meeting was called to order at 8:22 p.m. by President Steve Hooker. It was noted that a quorum was present. The general minutes from Sept. 8, 2015 were reviewed. It was moved by Amy Mendenhall and seconded by Sunny Freeman to approve the minutes as written; motion carried unanimously. The executive session minutes from Sept. 8, 2015 concerning the Executive Director annual review were reviewed. It was moved by Marty Hanson and seconded by Sunny Freeman to approve the minutes as written; motion carried unanimously. BUSINESS AND STAFF REPORTS: The Secretary’s Sept. 30 membership report was read orally into the record. Treasurer’s Report: As of the end of August, the Mazamas total operational revenue is $749,702 ($19,945 for the month) and total operating expenses are $1,055,688 ($80,073 for the month). Current total assets are $1,251,549. We expect to finish the fiscal year with a net loss of around $300,000 rather than the budgeted $400,000. The biggest factor in this is the slower than expected progress of the IT project which has pushed some activity and related spending into the next fiscal year. Lee Davis presented the Executive Director’s report. Items noted beyond the written summary provided in the packet were as follows: ▶▶ The Oregon Big Tent coalition has invited Lee D to be a board member; their first meeting is next week.
The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. Draft Minutes. ▶▶ Adam Baylor and Lee Davis will attend the upcoming SHIFT conference. ▶▶ A volunteer intern, Jenny Dempsey Stein, is on staff helping with evaluation of the Adventure Wild! Summer day camp program. She will work through mid-December. ▶▶ The Mazamas Foundation has just elected officers; these are: Tom Bard, president; Dan Crisp, vice-president; Preston Corless, treasurer; Karen Natzel, secretary. Lee Davis reviewed the Strategic Development Plan status report and answered questions. OLD BUSINESS The consent agenda was reviewed; there were written reports from the following committees: ▶▶ CISM ▶▶ Education ▶▶ Families ▶▶ Governing Documents ▶▶ Lodge ▶▶ Nominating ▶▶ Programs ▶▶ Publications ▶▶ Research The reports not requesting action were approved by consensus. Steve Hooker clarified that he had spoken to the co-chair of the Research Committee, Tom Bennett, and the action request to “restore full [grant] budget” was intended to wait for the scheduled session to look at this issue in the November Executive Council meeting, per the amendment adopted at the September meeting. No action was therefore taken at this time. There were no other committee action requests.
SUMMARY OF ELECTION RESULTS FROM ANNUAL MEETING AND OFFICER ELECTION SESSION Number of votes cast 762 Member Election of Directors Jon Jurevic* recieved 544 Chris Kruell* received 497 Barbara Weiss received 464 Darrell Weston* received 506 MEMBER ELECTION OF NOMINATING COMMITTEE Matt Carter* Hannah Seebach* Joan Zuber*
500 495 522
EXECUTIVE COUNCIL ELECTION OF OFFICERS (ALL OFFICES UNCONTESTED) President: Steve Hookerr Vice President: Martin Hanson Secretary: John Rettig Treasurer: Jon Jurevic *Elected
NEW BUSINESS Lee Davis discussed details of the upcoming Oct. 23–25 council retreat at Mt. Adams Lodge. Sarah Bradham presented an update to the status of the IT project, incorporated herein by reference. We expect to have a recommendation and move into phase II in January 2016, with a full implementation target of 18–24 months. We adjourned at 9:08 p.m.
Executive Council minutes are abridged and subject to approval; for official version, go to mazamas.org/ members/executive-council-reports/.
Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.
KILIMANJARO + SERENGETI UNDER $4800, EXCL. AIRFARE. FEB 13-28 trip with Mazama CL benefits Tanzanian healthcare. Call 971-2227215, web: danschuster@bmet-aid.com, www.bmet-aid.com. HOUSE AND PET SITTING BY BILLIE GOODWIN—Mazama member since 1986. Call 503-254-6121 or email oriongood@aol.com. 503.684.9698
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Why Should you Attend The Summit on Nov. 21? Keynote speakers JIM WHITTAKER & ALEX HONNOLD Excellent FOOD included. Beer & wine available Explore a VENDOR FAIR filled with quality gear Celebrate ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS with your friends Huge silent auction with gear, food, wine, experiences, services & more THE PAFTERPARTY, exclusive after-party at Base Camp Brewing Company