Mazama October Bulletin

mazama

bulletin The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale—we climb high

Oct. 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 10

climb. hike. explore.

Camp Shurman. Mt. Rainier.

Photo: Vaqas Malik.

Upcoming Events and Classes Chasing Ice Presentation & Panel Discussion Oct. 4; 7 p.m. at the MMC.

Volunteer Appreciation Picnic Oct. 7 at 5 p.m. at the MMC

Annual Meeting Oct. 7 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC.

Craggin’ Classic Oct. 12–13 at Smith Rock.

Discovery Night Oct. 14 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. Come out and learn about all the Mazamas has to offer.

Nordic Skill School Application Available Online Nov. 1

Wilderness Navigation Skillbuilder Nov. 10

Portland Alpine Festival Nov. 11–16

Advanced Rock Application Available Dec. 2

2 —Mazama Bulletin

In this Issue Features p. 6 Never Too Little To Learn p. 6 Stewardship at Beacon Rock Leads to Advisory Committee Talks p. 8 Portland Alpine Fest p. 11 Round the Mountain 2013 p. 12 Extended Ptarmigan Traverse p. 16 Luna Peak p. 22 Volunteer Recognition: Steve Polzel p. 24 Smith Rock Climbers’ Ranch FAQ p. 26 Allison Belcher: A Remarkable Mazama p. 27 Nordic Ski School Monthly Columns p. 5 Volunteer Opportunities p. 7 Programs p. 15 Membership Report p. 15 Lodge News & Notes p. 15 Mazama Benefits p. 18 Successful Climbers p. 19 Mazama Families p. 21 AYM Activities p. 23 Outings p. 28 Trail Trips p. 31 Executive Council Notes

Above: Mazama climb team on Mt. Stone.

Below: Margaret Olczak on the pproach hike to Mt. Stone.

Photo: Vaqas Malik

Executive Director’s Report

Contact Us

Teaching the City Dwellers to Climb & Love the Mountains

Mazama Mountaineering Center 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215 Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: adventure@mazamas.org Hours: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m.

Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

“He ... had a missionary’s zeal for teaching city dwellers to climb and to love mountains – describing Mazamas 1894 Founder and first President, William Gladstone Steel” –John D. Scott describing Mazamas 1894 Founder and first President, William Gladstone Steel—We Climb High: A Chronology of the Mazamas 1894-1964 [available in the Mazama Library] Dear Members: Sometimes our town starts to look and feel a little like San Francisco, but Portland really is a mountain town at heart. No volume of hipsters, funky shops and fancy restaurants can change the fact that you can see up to five staggering cascade summits from town on a crystal clear day and we scurry off to play in the mountains most Friday afternoons.

This year in November we inaugurate the Portland Alpine Fest, which includes our Mazama Annual Celebration. The goal is to bring together not just Mazamas, but several of our partner communities to celebrate mountain culture in Portland. For a full week we’re co-hosting events with NW Outward Bound School, the American Alpine Club, the Wilderness Society, the Access Fund, the Alex Lowe Charitable Trust, the Outdoor Alliance, Portland Rock Gym and the Mountain Shop.

The whole week is sponsored by Grivel Mt. Blanc, the legendary gear company whose ice tools and crampons we all love to use which are made on the Italian side of the Mt. Blanc massif! Fear not, the Friday main event remains Mazamas Annual Celebration and it’s going to be a huge success.

So, why are we doing all of this? As I say so often, Mazamas exists to promote mountaineering and we already do it amazingly well. Even so, we have a duty to survey the scene in our community and ensure that we’re doing our best to promote mountaineering and climbing.

Twenty years ago people in Oregon and Washington found mountaineering by way of a common path: they started hiking and backpacking, and then they’d come to the Mazamas to learn about climbing mountains.

Our Basic Climbing School is designed perfectly to teach those who have hiked and backpacked but don’t know how to travel on technical terrain or use climbing equipment.

But nowadays, there are thousands of people in the Northwest who have begun to participate in mountaineering, or would like to, yet know virtually nothing about

Mazamas. Many of these thousands have entered into mountaineering by a different path. Some hire guides or have friends who take them out. Some are outdoor athletes who simply try to figure it out on their own. Information on skills, routes and training for mountaineering is much more available than it was in decades past.

Hikers and backpackers traditionally represent the majority of people who are interested in learning about mountaineering —and who come to Mazamas for those skills.

In other words, hiking and backpacking are commonly viewed as entrance activities to mountaineering. But we’ve always had a few other ways for people to get involved in the Mazamas and learn how to climb.

Snowshoeing, rock climbing, Nordic skiing, international outings, and stewardship activities all expose people to mountaineering at the Mazamas. Once we bring them in through these entrance activities, some of folks decide to stay and learn how to climb.

Skiing has had an enormous impact on the Mazamas. Our first lodge on Mt. Hood was a ‘winter sports’ lodge in Twin Bridges (near Rhododendron, OR). In the 30s Oregon responded to the huge demand for skiing by plowing the road to Government Camp and opening a thousand-car parking lot! So, in the 1930s Mazamas moved our ‘winter sports lodge’ up to above Government Camp. In 1960 under the direction of esteemed member Jack Grauer the Mazama Lodge was rebuilt to sleep 100. The new lodge was, for all practical purposes, a ski lodge, complete with a ski hill and rope tow out back.

By reacting to and investing in the huge popularity of skiing and winter sports, Mazamas in the middle part of the 20th century was able to leverage this growing entrance activity and better pursue our mission.

Many hundreds of people who were first just interested in skiing or staying at the lodge became exposed to Mazamas and went on to take classes, climb mountains and become members. It may be only a coincidence, but Mazamas membership grew dramatically, from 1,000 members in 1960 to 2,200 just ten years later.

I strongly believe that our investment in winter sports at a time when they were exploding in popularity was a smart move.

Today, rock climbing is the entrance activity

continued on next page

Mazama Lodge 30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028 Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: mazama.lodge@mazamas.org Hours: Thu. noon—Mon. noon Mazama Staff Lee Davis—Executive Director (lee@mazamas.org) Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager (kati@mazamas.org) Adam Baylor—Stewardship and Communications Manager (adam@mazamas.org) Sarah Bradham—Marketing and Publications Manager (sarah@mazamas.org) Jamie Anderson—Member Services Manager (jamie@mazamas.org) Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager (rick@mazamas.org) Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager (mazama.lodge@mazamas.org) Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker (caretaker@mazamas.org)

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)

Editor: Sarah Bradham (mazama. bulletin@mazamas.org). Advertising (mazama.ads@mazamas.org). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. (This month the meeting will be held on the first Monday, Oct. 7 at 8: 30 p.m.) Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c) (3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

October 2013—3

Executive Director, continued from page 3 that’s exploding. Urban climbing gyms and sport climbing have grown in popularity by leaps and bounds. Twenty-five years ago Portland Rock Gym opened as the second urban climbing gym in the country ten years ago there were three rock climbing gyms in Portland and today there are 6 with another opening in 2014 in the Pearl district. Hundreds of rock gyms have sprung up nationwide.

We talk in our strategic plan about growing diversity in our membership, and growing the portion of our membership under 50 years of age. Being relevant to rock climbers and teaching them how to climb and care for the mountains is absolutely in-line with our mission and is an obvious strategic opportunity. Thousands of boulderers, sport climbers and crag climbers are out there and our job as Mazamas is to teach them to climb and love the mountains.

The ultimate experience of mountaineering combines all of the core skills we teach at Mazamas (climbing rock, snow & ice, backpacking, glacier travel, skiing, etc.) with a John Muir like reverence for the alpine environment. Rock climbing is absolutely fundamental to the mountaineering experience, and this is why we offer sport leading, trad climbing and falling clinics throughout the year.

Currently the local rock climbing gyms are also offering gym-to-crag programs, teaching their members how to climb outside. What they’re doing is responding to the interests of their members and taking them outside.

Mazamas needs to respond as well. I thank our education committees for ramping up the number of rock climbing courses we offered in this last year: that’s an obvious, easy step.

Skiing has its Government Camp, and there’s also a place our members go to rock climb: Smith Rock. Smith Rock State Park is currently the 2ndmost visited location by Mazamas behind Mt. Hood National Forest, with over 1,000 organized people-days per year and many thousands more per year by members privately. It’s an important location for Mazamas; it’s where we teach rock climbing skills to intermediate and advanced school students, and also where our leaders learn and recertify rock rescue skills.

As you’ll see in the pages of this bulletin, the Mazamas Foundation has recently secured the right to purchase 3+ acres of property at the parking lot at Smith Rock State Park in about 4 years. The clear intent is to give the Mazamas the opportunity to create a climbers ranch (overnight lodging) at Smith Rock State Park, similar to the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch owned by the American Alpine Club. This is a big idea and it’s mostly about investing in rock climbing as an entrance activity—just like we did with skiing through Mazama Lodge. It’s also about increasing diversity and potentially about finally starting a program center in central Oregon – something we’ve talked about for decades.

To be clear, the property has not been purchased yet. The opportunity to do so is now secure. We have time to think about this, to debate, to consider business plans and to decide if it’s a good idea – all before investing any significant time or money. That’s a gift the Foundation gave to Mazamas this year. In order to proceed with the idea, we would need to initiate serious fundraising and also develop partnerships to share in the risk/reward. We have great national partnerships now and, unlike the capital campaign for the Mazama Mountaineering Center, there’s much less urgency and the vision is scalable. We’re absolutely in position to only build what we can afford, and to consider bringing in national partners to share the risk & reward.

Please read the FAQ sheets in this bulletin about this idea and provide your feedback online at mazamas.org or by mail to the MMC. We want your feedback, we want your opinions, and we’ll be collecting both over the next several months. In the mean time, we hope to see you at one or all of the amazing events at the Portland Alpine Festival and the Mazamas Annual Celebration in November [portlandalpinefest.org].

Thanks to all of you for helping us teach people to climb and love the mountains.

Sincerely,

Lee Davis Executive Director

4 —Mazama Bulletin

Mazama Discovery Night

Monday, Oct. 14, 6:30–9 p.m. at the MMC Come join us at Discovery Night! This is a bright and bold celebration of what it means to be a Mazama.

Discovery Night is a great opportunity for new and potential members to come and learn about the Mazamas. Come find out about our fun activities, circulate and visit with our experienced members and learn about the different committees that make us work. A great time for current members to come and connect with friends, share experiences and enjoy the camaraderie. Feel free to bring a friend or two!

MAZAMA Bulletin

503-227-2345 • mazama.ads@mazamas.org

Retail Advertising Rates 4 column page 2˝ wide: $10 per column inch (min. $10) 3 column page 2.5˝ wide: $15 per column inch (min. $15) 2 column page 3.75˝ wide: $20 per column inch (min. $20) 1 column page 7.75˝ wide: $30 per column inch (min. $60) Quarter page: $100 • Half page: $175 • Full page: $300 Classified rate: $4 per line (approx. 70 letters). 10 percent discount for 12-month agreement

Publications Committee Asks You to Think Ahead for Next Year’s Annual The Publications Committee is already in the planning stage for the 2013 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures this winter, spring, summer and fall, especially any climbing-related stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions you make. Please submit materials to mazama.annual@mazamas.org We’d also like to encourage you to submit highresolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to an article. We would like to print a number of stand-alone photos from members in upcoming Annuals and we especially need verticallyoriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo caption and credit. You can submit your photos to the email address above.

Deadlines: • All reports are due Oct. 15 (commitee, outings (except fall), administrative) • Feature articles are due Nov. 15 • Photos are due Nov. 15 • Climbs and hikes (spreadsheets) are due by Dec. 15 Many thanks­—Mazama Publications Committee.

Volunteer Opportunities

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • kati@mazamas.org

Mazama Volunteerism Survey

Hey Mazamas! Enter for your chance to win great prizes from Climb Max and Columbia Sportswear! We want to learn more about the way you interact with our organization as a volunteer.

What volunteer activities are you involved with or have you done in the past? How would you like to be involved? What great skills do you have that we should know about? Take this 10-question survey and you’ll be entered to win. Good luck! Survey Link: tinyurl.com/mazamavolunteersurvey Monday, Oct. 7—Vote Counting Volunteers: On the date of the Annual Meeting, the Mazama Nominating Committee needs help counting votes for our new Executive Council members. Vote counters will meet at the MMC at 2 p.m. and it will take 3–4 hours to tally the votes. Contact the Mazama Office if you are available to volunteer, 503-227-2345.

Sunday, Oct. 13—Craggin Classic Stewardship Project: Volunteers needed to host the Mazama-sponsored breakfast and help with a stewardship project at the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic. Join in the fun all weekend and give some love back to the park by pitching in on Sunday. Also enjoy a special screening of Reel Rock 8. Contact Adam Baylor, adam@mazamas.org, to rsvp.

Saturday, Oct. 19—Fall Tree Planting with Conservation Committee: Join a conservation tradition! Twice each year Conservation Committee leads a group to plant trees along the Sandy River basin near Zigzag. See page 19, or contact Walter Keutel, conservation@ mazamas.org, to rsvp.

Monday, Oct. 21—Join Outings Committee: If you have a passion for travelling and adventure trips, this is your opportunity to participate in the envisioning, planning, organization and execution of a successful outing. As an Outing Liaison you coordinate planning, budgeting, promotion and financial tracking with your assigned outing leader. As a committee member you are part of a group that establishes policy for Mazama outings as well as providing an excellent information and consulting resource for trip planners.

Contact Joe Whittington, joewhittington@ gmail.com, for more information.

Nov. 14 & 15—Portland Alpine Festival and Annual Celebration Volunteers: On Thursday, Nov. 14th and Friday, Nov. 15th the Mazamas will be throwing a party at the Left Bank Annex, and we need your help to make the celebration great! Volunteers will greet guests, check coats and set up tables/chairs and décor. Sign up for 2–3 hour shifts on Thursday between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m.; Friday 4:30 p.m. – midnight. Contact Anne Keegan, keegan.anne1@gmail.com.

Flexible—Oral History Transcribers: Part of preserving Mazama history is collecting oral histories from our long-time members.

Our esteemed Museum Curator, Vera Dafoe, has great stories to tell about her 55 years of Mazama membership. These stories are currently recorded on tapes and need to be transcribed for the archives. If you have confident typing skills and would be interested in this project please contact Doug Couch, dougnlis@teleport.com.

Beginning Tuesday, Oct. 22—MFA Assistants: Help out the MFA class and practice your skills. We need help for Mods 1-5 (6-9 p.m. at the MMC): Oct. 22, 24, 29, Nov. 5, 7; and for MFA weekend at the Lodge: Nov. 9–10.

Please contact Kati if you are available, kati@mazamas.org.

Ongoing—Opportunities with Nordic Committee Nordic Committee Member: Help organize Mazama Nordic Student classes, support Instructor Outreach/Development, brainstorm Marketing ideas or help us publish the class Handbooks. Important Dates: 12/3, Instructor Training; 12/12, Student Orientation.

Nordic Class Assistant: A wonderful opportunity to build leadership skills along with skiing skills! Receive a free professional ski seminar from Wy’East Nordic Dec 7 & 8, 2013. Assist for 4 classes in January 2014, either Saturdays or Sundays.

Contact: Carol Lane, carol.lane@ portlandoregon.gov Ongoing—Research Committee: Research Committee members evaluate research proposals for funding by the Mazamas, track progress of funded proposals and occasionally assist with field work. The committee works to advance and

continue the long history of Mazamas supporting research in the area of mountain environments, especially in the NW. This committee meets just twice/year (fall and spring) to plan the RFP and to review proposals. Contact Tom Bennett (nordlys_2@yahoo.com) or Molly Schmitz (mollyschmitz@gmail.com).

Ongoing—BCEP Committee: You know that you took BCEP and would love to help run the 2014 course – oh yeah! The BCEP Committee is looking for new members; contact Andrew Bodien if you’re interested in getting involved, andrew@bodien.org.

Ongoing—Office Volunteers: Help out the MMC as an Office Volunteer. Answer questions, greet visitors and enjoy the camaraderie of other Mazamas members.

This is a great position for people who want to meet more Mazamas, are detail-oriented and are also good multi-taskers. Contact Kati Mayfield, kati@mazamas.org, if interested.

Ongoing—Financial Affairs Committee: Help Mazama classes and committees understand their money. If you have managed a budget before, join this committee to help prepare our quarterly reforecasts and annual budget and advise Executive Council on financial and accounting procedures or decisions.

This committee is also looking for a Chair.

If you are interested in the Financial Affairs committee please contact Chris Simmons, outgoing Chair, at casimmons1@gmail.com.

you only live once ...

VISIT PERU

Trips during the shoulder season—Sep/Oct & Mar/Apr. Customized for 2, 3 or 4 weeks. Planning now for 2014.

Led by Ellen Gradison—Mazama climb leader since 1998, Peru outing leader since 2008. ellengradison@peak.org

October 2013—5

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Stewardship at Beacon Rock Leads to Advisory Committee Talks

by Adam Baylor

Last month climbers gathered at Beacon Rock State Park for the second annual Adopt-a-Crag event sponsored and organized by the Mazamas, American Alpine Club and the Access Fund.

The day of trail maintenance was attended by 22 volunteers along with the Access Fund’s Conservation Team, which is part of their newly designed stewardship program supporting climbing areas throughout the United States.

Volunteers contributed more than 100 cumulative hours of trail work that not only moved some serious stone but also served as an opportunity to talk with park rangers about taking care of Beacon Rock and updating the Climbing Management Plan (CMP).

Andy Fitz from the Washington Climbers’ Coalition stopped by and picked up trash along the Southwest Face boulder field.

Fitz was one of the climbers in who helped create the park’s CMP in 1996—another part of Beacon’s intricate climbing

6 —Mazama Bulletin

history. The event wrapped up with food and drinks in the sun and, of course, lots of climbing!

One week after the Adopt-a-Crag event, climbers and rangers met at the park to discuss the formation of a Technical Rock Climbing Advisory Committee, which would be in accordance with the Washington Administrative Code for climbing in state parks (WAC 352-32-085). The WAC states that “the director or designee shall establish a committee of technical rock climbers, to advise park staff on park management issues related to technical rock climbing for each state park area where deemed necessary by the agency.”

In the next few months, climbers will help organize a “Call for Committee Members” and under designation from the Park Manager and ultimately the Director of Washington State Parks will create a committee responsible for climbing-related activities at Beacon. This committee has not formally existed since the 1996 CMP was implemented.

Evening Programs Igloo and Ski trips in the Oregon Cascades Wednesday, Oct. 16

The Igloo is a simple and elegant form of backcountry shelter that has been used by indigenous peoples of the Arctic for millennia.

It allows backcountry winter explorers access to remote areas by providing shelter in extreme weather conditions.

The challenge and pleasure of Igloo-building has its own appeal, combining snow skills and building skills that are easily learned and allow great creativity. For nearly 20 years Benjamin Yang has been building Igloos and teaching Igloo-building workshops in and around the Oregon/Washington Cascades. More recently, Ben has been joined by Mazama Eric Brainich on winter trips during which they backcountry skied into remote Cascade locales, built and lived in an Igloo for several days and enjoyed skiing the alpine environments around their home (Igloo) base. Ben and Eric will share photos and stories from their trips, including Crater Lake, Tam McArthur Rim, Mt. Thielsen, Newberry Crater, Mt. Rainier, night-time candlelight illumination, occasional mishaps and address technical and equipment requirements of backcountry Igloo-based ski touring.

Filming Expedition Denali Wednesday, Oct. 23

Making History— Building a Legacy: All African American Expedition Denali This summer Hudson Henry had the great pleasure of helping to document Expedition Denali, the first team composed completely of African Americans to attempt North America’s highest peak. The “mountaineers” of the Denali Expedition climbed to promote diversity in the great outdoors and to encourage young people to get out and move. They also want to teach young folks to appreciate nature and to raise interest in protecting America’s wild spaces. It was an amazing adventure with a very special group of climbers, NOLS instructors, and filmmakers.

Join Hudson for the “behind the scenes” photographic story of their journey on Denali.

Programs are held at the MMC (527 SE 43rd Avenue) and begin at 7 p.m. Shows are free and open to Mazama members and the general public. We do appreciate a voluntary contribution at the discretion of each attendee. Carpooling, public transportation, biking and walking to the MMC are encouraged. Thank you for supporting our successful series by your regular attendance. Program Committee: Nancy Bentley, Dave Grodle, John Leary, Sharon Leary, Gail O’Neill, Barbara Russell, Rick Russell and Paul Winther.

CLIMBING THE ONE HUNDRED FAMOUS MOUNTAINS OF JAPAN Wednesday, Oct. 30

Japanese author and avid mountaineer Kyuya Fukada’s hope was that his book The Hundred Famous Mountains of Japan would get people out into the mountains and find their own 100 favorite climbs; however his list has become the standard for many Japanese climbers and even a few foreigners.

Mazama member Doug Wilson has traveled extensively in Japan and last year finished climbing all 100 peaks on Fukada’s list. Stretching from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, the 100 peaks took him to areas of Japan that most Japanese people have never been to and presented challenges not seen by Pacific NW climbers, including typhoons, dodging hungry monkeys and giant hornets.

Please join him for a look at some of his favorite peaks and a unique prospective into what climbing in Japan is like.

The John Muir Trail: Pictorial Overview and Hiking Tips Wednesday, Nov. 6

Last summer, Paula Wetzsteon solo hiked the John Muir Trail (JMT), a 210 mile trek through the High Sierra in California, what many agree is the finest mountain scenery in the U.S—a land of 13,000 and 14,000-foot peaks, soaring granite cliffs, lakes by the thousands and canyons 5000 feet deep.

Beginning at the Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite National Park, the JMT crosses through Ansel Adams Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park ending on the top of Mt. Whitney.

Paula will share pictures of the trip as well as hiking tips for those hoping to “section hike” or “through hike” this classic trail.

October 2013—7

A week-long celebration of Northwest Mountain Culture Presented by the Mazamas and Grivel The Portland Alpine Fest is a week-long series of events celebrating Northwest mountain culture. The week starts on Monday, November 11 with a Veterans Day celebration, continues daily with mountaincentric films and events and culminates on Friday with our Annual Celebration and the Portland Ice Fest Competition on Saturday.

Athletes Conrad Anker, Will Gadd, Margo Talbot and John Frieh will be presenting, running clinics and working the competitions.

8 —Mazama Bulletin

schedule of events

conrad anker

C

onrad Anker’s specialty, simply put, is climbing the most technically challenging terrain in the world. This quest has taken him from the mountains of Alaska and Antarctica to the big walls of Patagonia and Baffin Island to the massive peaks of the Himalaya.

Conrad’s Antarctic experience spans a decade, with first ascents in three regions. In 1997, Conrad teamed up with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer to climb Rakekniven, a 2,500-foot wall in Queen Maud Land. In the Sentinel Range, Conrad climbed the Vinson Massif via three new routes. His climbs in Pakistan’s Karakoram include the west face of Latok II along the “Tsering Mosong” route (which begins at the same height as the summit of Denali) where he climbed 26 pitches on a vertical cliff and then topped out at 23,342 feet. In 1998, Conrad and Peter Croft made a first ascent of Spansar Peak via a 7,000-foot ridge in one day.

In Patagonia, he climbed the three towers of the Cerro Torre Massif. On Yosemite’s El Capitan he joined Steve Gerberding and Kevin Thaw to establish “Continental Drift,” a steep nail-up on the right side. And in Zion National Park, Mugs Stump and Conrad first climbed the intimidating “Streaked Wall.”

In May of 1999, as a member of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition, Conrad discovered the body of George Mallory, the preeminent Everest explorer of the 1920s. The disappearance of Mallory and Sandy Irvine on their summit bid in June 1924 is one of climbing’s great mysteries, and Conrad’s discovery and analysis of the find has shed new light on the pioneering climbs of the early expeditions.

Conrad graduated from the University of Utah and lives in Bozeman, Montana with his wife and three sons. He is a board member of the Conservation Alliance, the American Alpine Club and the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation. He stays in shape by climbing, running and skiing.

will gadd

Will grew up in a family that hiked, climbed and went into the mountains whenever they could. Some of his earliest memories are of long backpacking trips, wind-blown summits and surviving winter ski trips.

The first sport he really got into on his own was caving. When Will was 14 he started kayaking.

At 16 he bought his first climbing rope, and did his first new rock route. At 25 Will first flew a paraglider. At 41 his daughter came into the world. She’s already doing all the stuff he did as a kid, and she’s an athlete too.

Nov. 11–Veterans Day Celebration Movie–High Ground Nov. 13–First Ascents & Alpine Achievements John Frieh Presentation Nov. 14 (Day)–Clinics Will Gadd & Margot Talbot Nov. 14–Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation Fundraiser An Evening with Conrad Anker, Jenni Anker-Lowe, Margot Talbot & Will Gadd Nov. 15 (Day)–Clinics Conrad Anker, Will Gadd & Margot Talbot Nov. 15 (Eve)–Mazama Annual Celebration Cocktail Party Margot Talbot Presentation Conrad Anker Presentation Nov. 16–PDX Ice Festival Competition Fundraiser for Hyalite Canyon w/ Will Gadd & Margot Talbot

tickets are on sale now at portland alpine fest.org

margo talbot

Born in New Brunswick and heading west at her earliest convenience, Margo’s world was transformed the day she swung her first axe into the ice. The immediacy, focus, and joy of the activity has been her passion ever since.

Margo credits physical activity and her relationship with nature as the driving forces in her healing journey through addiction and depression, a journey chronicled in her tell-all exposé, All That Glitters.

Margo lives in Canmore, Alberta, where she immerses herself in the Rocky Mountains of Canada. She spends her time speaking, writing and teaching people how to climb.

A sponsored athlete with Outdoor Research, her goal is to introduce as many people as possible to the activity that literally saved her life.

October 2013—9

Mazamas Welcome Renowned Climber Conrad Anker to 2013 Annual Celebration and Portland Alpine Fest!

by Lacy Turner

Spo ns

From the peaks of the Himalaya to the walls of Patagonia, from Antarctica to Yosemite and up to Alaska, Conrad Anker’s forte is climbing the most technically challenging peaks and pinnacles in the world. In 1999 Conrad Anker the explorer discovered the body of George Mallory 27,000 feet up Mt. Everest! The Mazamas are thrilled to welcome Conrad Anker as our speaker for the 2013 Mazama Annual Celebration Friday, Nov. 15 at a gorgeous new location, the Leftbank Annex. The Celebration will have two speakers this year; Conrad Anker will be joined by world-famous ice climber MargoTalbot!

And more big news: the 2013 Annual Celebration is part of the Portland Alpine Fest, a week-long series of events organized by the Mazamas, Nov.11– 6. Portland Alpine Fest activities offer you one-onone time with Conrad Anker and Margo Talbot, along with another well known Canadian, Will Gadd, and Portland’s own John Frieh. We urge you to check out portlandalpinefest.org for a full schedule and first dibs at tickets.

Now in his third decade of climbing fame, Conrad Anker began his first ascents of note in the late 1980s in the Alaska Range (the Southeast Face of Gurney Peak, Kichatna Mountain and the Northwest Face of Mount Hunter, with Seth Shaw).

Conrad’s Antarctic experience is highlighted by a 1997 climb with Alex Lowe and

s r o

10 —Mazama Bulletin

John Krakauer of Rakekniven, a 2,500foot wall in Queen Maud Land, featured as the cover article of the February 1998 National Geographic Magazine. He climbed the Vinson Massif via three new routes in the South Pole’s Sentinel Range. Conrad’s climbs in the Pakistan Karakoram include the west face of Latok II along the Tsering Mosong route (which begins at the same height as the summit of Denali). It would take a considerable number of pages to list his climbing CV but we’ll squeeze in a recent summit of one of the last great unclimbed features of the Himalayas; in October 2011, Conrad, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk topped out on the Shark’s Fin route on the northwest face of Meru in the Garwhal Himalaya, a route that eluded many of the world’s top alpinists for 30 years.

Conrad’s discovery of the body of George Mallory in May of 1999 (as a member of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition) led to new insights on the pioneering climbs of the early expeditions and was hailed as the greatest adventure of the year. If 1999 held Conrad’s greatest triumph it also held his most intense climbing tragedy. In October 1999 Conrad and his best friend Alex Lowe were ambushed by an avalanche in the Tibetan Himalaya. Conrad barely survived. Alex and cameraman David Bridges did not.

That same all-important year, Jennifer Lowe-Anker and Conrad Anker founded the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF) to help people who live in the remote regions of the world that attract climbers.

This year you will likely find Conrad more eager to talk about an ALCF program—the Khumbu Climbing Center— than his personal exploits. In January of this year the Khumbu Climbing Center celebrated its tenth year in the village of Phortse, Khumbu, Nepal. Conrad is KCC Director and an instructor for the classes to increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high altitude workers. Check out the wonderful video, Khumbu Climbing Center—10 Years, on the ALCF homepage http://alexlowe.org/ Join Conrad Anker and Jenni Lowe-Anker November 14 in a more intimate setting for the Khumbu Climbing Center Dinner, a fundraiser for the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation.

Find all the info on the dinner, the climbing clinics and the Mazama Annual Celebration on the Portland Alpine Fest website, hportlandalpinefest.org.

One more important note: the heart of our Mazama Annual Celebration is, and will always be, honoring our own with climbing and service awards. We chose the Leftbank Annex for convenient location (101 N. Weidler Street, across from the Rose Garden) and accessibility for all Mazamas. The topic of Conrad Anker’s presentation at the Celebration is close to the hearts of 119-years-worth of Mazamas: The Relevance of Exploration— or, Why Are We Here Today? The 2013 Celebration and Portland Alpine Fest events offer something for all of us, Old-Timers to new climbers, armchair adventurers to Adventurous Young Mazamas!

MAZAMAS

partn ers

RTM 2013

By Karen Yanhs-Anderson

RTM 2013 was successful this year with 12 leaders and 43 participants enjoying three days of glorious and sunny weather hiking around Mt. Hood.

Everyone seemed to enjoy the event and was in good spirits.

This year’s registration opened at midnight on April 1 and filled within four days. Despite much attrition in the months leading up to the event, we had a large waiting list and were able to fill most slots. We hosted some big groups from Bend and Seattle and were also joined by a big group from the Portland metro area hiking in celebration of a friend’s birthday.

Planning for the event went quite smoothly thanks to a detailed event planning guide created by last year’s leaders, Sojo Hendrix and Jean Cavanaugh.

We had a few event hiccups this year, having to divert groups and re-route due to the Cloud Cap road closure. This forced us to go from Tilley Jane Trail (Cooper Spur) to Mount Hood Meadows.

Instead of Top Spur to Timberline, the groups chose to go from Ramona Falls to Timberline due to a landslide on Muddy Forks.

Then they hiked Top Spur to Elk Cove.

Our six hiking teams were guided by 12 great Mazama hike leaders. A few of the assistant leaders were from AYM, and helped fill a last-minute leader shortage.

Listed below are the teams leader names and speed.

• Caleb Sattgast & Shane Harlson (both AYM)—Red Team, fast • Sherry Bourdin & Skip Smith—Gold Team, medium fast • Terry Sherbeck & Jerry Adams(AYM)—Blue Team, medium • Aaron Huston & Chris Boeger—Green Team, medium • Kate Evans & Nicole Peltz—White Team, slow • Daniel Van Rossen & Dave Braem—Orange Team, scenic I would like to applaud the lodge management for doing such superb job for our meals. Everyone was happy and a good time was had by most. So far we have received several feedback forms from participants and will use them to plan next year’s event.

Editor’s note: Thanks to Karen Yanhs-Anderson and Roger Anderson, this year’s terrific RTM Coordinators, for putting together this wonderful event!

Join the Mazama Hike Leader Team!

by Jim Selby

The Trail Trips Committee, which arranges for hikes, rambles, snowshoes, backpacks, Round-the-Mountain and other hiking activities, is always looking for new hike leaders. We have over 100 leaders, but we also cover over 800 hikes, rambles, and other hiking-related activities per year. That takes a lot of leadership!

Why become a hike leader?

1. Hike with other hiking enthusiasts where you want, when you want, and at the pace you want.

2. Receive coupons allowing you to hike free on other Mazama hikes.

3. Know that you are introducing many hikers to new hiking experiences.

4. Be honored at the annual Hike Leader Appreciation Celebration.

There are four requirements to become a hike leader: 1. Be a Mazamas member in good standing.

2. Have current First Aid certification. Basic Red Cross First Aid is fine. Some hike leaders have other first aid training such as Mazamas Mountaineering First Aid or training such as NOLS First Aid, Wilderness First Responder training, EMT training or other medical training.

3. Read the hike leader handbook. It is on-line at http:// mazamas.org/pdf/manuals/ttLeader Guide.pdf The handbook has a wealth of information about leading trail trips as well as procedures for handling safety and emergency situations.

4. Lead a provisional hike with a current Mazama Trail Trips leader and have that leader submit your evaluation form to the committee for approval. We will work with you to identify a hike, link you up with a current hike leader and publicize the hike.

Contact either Rex Breunsbach at Rex.Breunsbach@ecd.com, ph.

971-832-2556 or Jim Selby at selbyjb@comcast.net, ph. 828-5085094 to get started now!

Are you already a climb leader? We would love for you to lead hikes anytime but especially November-May. BCEP training hikes have been especially popular in winter and spring. As a Climb Leader you are also approved for leading hikes. Just contact Rex or Jim for more information.

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October 2013—11

Extended Ptarmigan Traverse: Cascade Pass to Holden Village on Skis

by Keith K. Daellenbach

The best way out is always through. –Robert Frost (A Servant to Servants) “This will either be a grand adventure or a catastrophic failure.” So said my partner, Chris Haagen of San Francisco, of our June 2013 ski tour of the extended Ptarmigan Traverse from Cascade Pass to Holden Village in Washington’s Cascade Range. For over two decades both of us had separately dreamt of making the famous traverse pioneered by four members of the Ptarmigan Climbing Club in late July 1938 (Calder T. Bressler, Ralph W. Clough, Bill Cox, Tom Myers) . In 2009, I received a check, on behalf of the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee I co-founded, from the Ptarmigans as they disbanded the Club so I had additional connections to this storied organization. I always thought I would “hike” it in late summer but, when Chris suggested we ski it and do the “extended” traverse which ends at Holden Village rather than the closer Suiattle (Salish word pronounced “Sue-at-ul”) River road, I was all in. The extended traverse on skis was first pioneered by Lowell Skoog, Bruce Goodson, and Matt Firth in June 2000. In conversations with Lowell following the tour, he knew of two additional teams that had done the extended traverse and, with our 2013 traverse, that would be four teams total. Given the remoteness and complicated logistics, I would estimate the extended ski traverse has been completed by maybe slightly more than a half dozen times. It is certainly deserving to be a true ski mountaineering classic of the Cascades!

Chris applied his engineering mind to noodle out an inventive solution of cracking non-ski logistics of the tour. This involved travel by plane, automobile, bus, shuttle, bus, ferry, bus, taxi, train, automobile, and plane. Chris also laid out the basic route using Google Earth and topographic maps to create waypoints which I then refined.

I picked Chris up at noon at Portland International Airport on Friday, June 21, the first day of summer, and we drove up to Everett Station where we caught a Skagit Transit bus to Mount Vernon. There super friendly Judi Brooks of Skagit River Resort in Marblemount picked us up and drove us to the Resort for a comfortable night’s lodging.

In the morning, Judi’s husband Bob drove us up Cascade River Road patiently answering many of our questions about local lore and shared a story of a possible Sasquatch sighting along that gravel road many decades ago. When Bob left us a the end of the 23-mile long road at the Cascade Pass trailhead and drove away, we felt the obviousness of our self-limiting retreat options. The weather was sunny though and, in fact, it was the best weather of any of the days of this eight-day traverse; all other days had either rain or snow. My pack weighed 50 pounds and we were off heading up the trail, over patches of snow, the dominant bulk of The Triplets and Johannesburg Mountain looming high above. Once over Cascade Pass at 5,340’ we would not drop back below this alpine threshold until our last day on the way out on the drier east side of the Cascade Range. The extended route forms a lazy “L”, starting on the west side of the mountains, follows the crest of the Cascade Range in a southerly direction, crosses ten glaciers, and ends on the east side nearly 50 miles later.

We downclimbed our first obstacle, a steep 15 foot snow wall created by prevailing winter winds, to gain the margin of Cache

12 —Mazama Bulletin

Glacier. Then, after nearly 3,400 feet gain from the trailhead, we climbed through Cache Col (6,940 feet), the most eastward notch (skier’s left) at the head of the glacier. This took us out of the North Cascades National Park and into the Glacier Peak Wilderness for the remainder of the tour. We skied down to the location of Kool Aid Lake and were greeted by a pine martin. The lake was snow-covered, although a small rivulet stream emanated from below the snow, around which we enjoyed dinner and admired the sunset and beautiful alpenglow on the surrounding snow-covered peaks. It was my first night in my new lightweight Mega Light pyramid shelter by Black Diamond, which has no floor, so we slept directly on the snow.

We had made novice work of battening down the edges of the shelter with snow and it was a breezy night. We started off under gray skies toward Red Ledge which was nearly completely snow-covered. It had substantial exposure so I led carefully across unroped as protection would have been unreliable and then exited up a short 50 degree ramp.

We continued on skiing to nearly the margin of the Middle Cascade Glacier, then climbed 400 feet up a rocky and heathered slope, gaining the glacier at 6,600 feet. The towering north face of Mount Formidable and the jumbled lower icefall of the Middle Cascade Glacier made me feel small. We roped up and I led up to the Spider-Formidable col at 7,300 feet (again climber’s left of an obvious col at the top of the glacier) at times post-holing to our knees in the deep snow. There were a few crevasses high on the Glacier but nothing difficult; however, the inclement weather had increasingly closed in around us and we barely made it through the col under the base of the cloud deck from which emanated a spitting shower. We plungedstepped down from the col into the upper margins of the Flat Creek drainage and, for a moment, could see in the distance our The author at Camp 3 at White Ro day’s goal, the scenic Yang Yang Lakes.

As Chris lead, skiing high around the upper cirque, he released surface slides of wet snow and we crossed under ridges castellated with large and eroding cornices, some of which had dropped car-sized blocks of consolidated snow across our route. At one point, we had to wait for enough visibility to continue, following pre-selected GPS waypoints, and thence down to the lakes, where we were greeted by the eerie booming notes of a male blue grouse in the nearby fog-shrouded forest. The two lakes were mostly snow- and ice-covered; however, we fortunately found a pleasant flat location on snow adjacent to the outlet stream and established our second camp.

We ended up spending the entire third day there pinned down by a storm of rain, low clouds, wind, and fog.

On the morning of the fourth day, the weather had not substantially improved. Occasionally, we could see as far as the Spider-

a few feet. A little later, under cover of complete darkness, I heard sounds of a squad of snafflehounds on our gear, rolled over, switched on my headlamp, and looked right into the beady eyes of a packrat!

I hopped up and firmly rocked the entire perimeter of our shelter, sealing it to the ground. As I drifted off to sleep, Chris wondered aloud if all the rodents had made a successful escape from our shelter before my rock action was completed. Fortunately, we slept the remainder of the night without incident.

The morning of the fifth day showed some signs of nice weather but it was not to be. The weather gradually deteriorated as we broke camp and climbed and skied out towards the Dana Glacier. We passed by the invisible juncture from which classic Ptarmigan Traverse parties separate and head up the glacier past Spire Point and down Itswoot Ridge to Cub Lake and out the Suiattle River drainage. I led across the Dana Glacier and crossed what appeared to be wolverine tracks descending from Dome Glacier, then skied on up to a V-notch col at 7,675 feet which put us over onto the Dome Glacier. We encountered a white-out complete with snowfall. We roped up and followed GPS waypoints with compass, forcing our way on skins and skis up and around crevasses to Dome Col at 8,500 feet, high point on the tour.

The crux of the tour lay just on the other side, the bergshrund on the Chickamin Glacier. I had studied this on Google Earth and in the limited whiteout visibility, I downclimbed on belay in a couple directions before spying a possible route on climber’s left that would allow us to possibly end-run the bergshrund. I again said a Paternoster mantra searching for a safe route knowing that I had to be able to retrace my steps in the deep snow if necessary in case it was not crossable (for a long bail via the classic traverse route with no vehicle at the end of trail). It was hairy. Finally, below a huge cornice that had eroded in the late spring thaw, I found a ramp that I could see with snow apparently covering the bergshrund below. I kept downclimbing the steep slope and, at one point, stepped into the yawning gap of the lower bergshrund crevass. I pulled my leg out, kneed loose snow into the hole, and eased my way across like a lizard balanced on a steep rock. I made it to safety below the bergshrund and drove my skis into the loose snow up to the Dynafit bindings and put Chris on belay. As he came down, he asked if I had any tips. When I told him about the care he would need to exercise crossing the lower of the two crevasses of the split bergshrund by possibly pushing in snow to ease across, he seemed both perplexed and mortified but he made it across in good style and we pressed on.

I knew from the pre-set waypoints and my study of the Google Earth images that we had to follow a snow-covered margin down between a headwall on our right and the heavily crevassed Chickamin Glacier on our left. I carefully picked our way down and in a few hundred feet found that we popped out just below ock Lakes with DomePeak and Dana Glacier in the background. Photo: Chris Haagen the cloud deck. A patch of sunlight opened up on a snowy flank of Gunsight Peak and a rainbow appeared like the promise to Noah after the Flood. That small sign in those remote mountains felt like a where we briefly had visibility to nearby peaks like the Hoch Joch gift meant for just me and Chris from the Creator. We had escaped the Spitz across South Cascade Glacier. Chris led the ski descent over to crux above and we relished the remaining ski down the Chickamin. the 6,850 foot so-called “Lizard Pass” at the head of the glacier which Later that day, after a 12-hour push, we arrived at the Gunsightoverlooks White Rock Lakes. Here, we had to downclimb a 50 foot Sinister col (7,675 feet) where we established our fourth camp on the steep cornice wall section, while on belay, to get off the glacier onto leeward side of the col. We named it “Traxion col” after the Petzl the snow slope above the lakes. Chris, more sure footed on skis then micro-traxion we used as a capture pulley to secure the climbing rope me, schussed all the way to the lakes and I skied the lower portion. tensioning the pyramid shelter’s center ski pole in the breeze funneling Once to the snow-covered lakes, the late-afternoon sun broke through through the col. and we could really take in the spectacular scenery from Gunsight to We awoke to day six with low clouds and skied off the col Dome peaks all the way across the Dana Glacier to our camp. A fat heading southwest to the small pocket glacier above Dome Creek marmot visited us as we had dinner and, as we settled in for the night, and thence down along the crest of the Cascade Range crest towards three or four ptarmigan collected around camp clucking and calling to Ross Pass (6,124 feet). Here we cut fresh tracks of a black bear but each other as night fell. I was actually able to sneak up on one and get unfortunately did not see it; our approach probably spooked it. Past a paparazzi photograph in the diminishing light at a distance of only Formidable col and then it would quickly disappear. This would have been a moment to retreat; however, we decided to break camp and at least climb up the ridge to the Le Conte Pass area to see if we could reconnoiter the route. I led up a snow gully hidden from view from our camp which steepened to 45 degrees. On the way up, the clouds completely enveloped us and I could barely see across the width of the couloir. I recited the Paternoster that morning and then prayed silently: “All we need is a little sun”. Just then it broke up somewhat and we gained the ridgetop. As we arrived, we heard a distinguished threenote call, sounding to me rather like a synthesized mechanical sound, and a lone white-tailed ptarmigan, in its molting phase speckled white and brown, flew over the pass not 30 yards below us. I was amazed! In nearly 30 years of mountain climbing, I had never seen this uncommon and secretive feathered denizen in all but the most remote wilderness outside of southeast Alaska and Norway. I took it as a sign to press on and we did not look back.

In a complete whiteout, I led over the north shoulder of Le Conte Mountain and skied down along east-side glaciers, making our way to the Le Conte Glacier. Skirting around the toe of a buttress, we roped up and I led back up into an easily navigable crevass field through a squall blowing snow sideways to the north shoulder of Sentinel Peak

October 2013—13

Ross Pass is the so-called “Hanging Gardens”, an idyllic open area of heather and small islands of subalpine fir with patches of snow and pockets of deeply-colored red snow algae.

We crossed through a cliffy area at 6,260’ then donned skis again for the nice long tour around the upper cirque above Sulfur Creek to Totem Pass (6,617 feet) crossing mountain goat tracks along the way below Bannock Mountain. We skied down the couloir below Totem Pass and then cut hard left (east) at 5,950 feet and down to Canyon Lake where we found a way to cross the open outflow creek with our crampons crossing downed logs and tree branches. This was the low point on the tour for me. It was cloudy, raining, our skins were waterlogged and the adhesive would not stick to our skis, and we had miles and miles to go to Holden. We had to make tracks but progress was painfully slow. Unable to skin-up on skis out of the lake’s cirque, we trudged on, eventually setting up our shelter on forest duff in a tree island amidst snow a mile west of Sitting Bull Mountain on a bench above a Canyon Creek tributary after another 12-hour day.

Supposedly, in the late summer, a hiking trail threads all the way into the backcountry to Canyon Lake, at least according to the topographic map. However, with intermittent snow cover, we did not see the trail. On day seven, we followed pre-selected waypoints along this trail location, both climbing and skiing our way out of the Canyon Creek drainage. There were some steep forest bushwhacking sections with no snow cover and Chris took a couple whippers down the slippery slope, arresting using a Black Diamond whippet and, fortunately, not getting hurt. We finally reached the 6,400 foot col above Image Lake on Miners Ridge which, in spite of the fact that the very summit of Glacier Peak, some nine miles southwest, was hidden in clouds, the view across the huge Suiattle River canyon to the volcanic peak was truly spectacular! I fired up the stove and melted some snow for mid-day hydration and then we glided down to where we were able to pick up the hiking trail for the first time at 6,350 feet along the exposed south side of Miners Ridge. The glacier lilies were in bloom and it was a huge relief to be on a hiking trail so we could make some distance. We followed the trail down into the trees below Miners Ridge heading east, passing derelict old miner camps, fording a sizeable creek (above the hiking trail thrashing across brush and logs with our crampons on), to where we eventually lost the trail in snow and crossed over Suiattle Pass (5,895 feet). We pressed on and, as we made our way up to Cloudy Pass at the end of a 13-hour day, we heard thunder and saw a very dark bank of clouds heading our way from the west. The sound, to Chris, was as if the Chief of the Sauk-Suiattle Indian Tribe was

14 —Mazama Bulletin

admonishing us to depart from his mountains, of which, while I was grateful to cross briefly over this Native American homeland, we were on our way out. Just as we arrived at Cloudy Pass, a torrent of rain unleashed and we had our shelter set up in a record three minutes and 15 seconds flat and cooked dinner inside!

To have any chance to make the morning bus departing from Holden on Saturday, the eighth day, we had to get an alpine start.

We were up at 4 a.m., ate breakfast, and were soon on Top: Keith Daellenbach at Cache Col. Bottom: The author at Miners Ridge our skis gliding with Glacier Peak in the background. Photo: ChrisHaagen. down to Lyman Lake. We finally Empire Builder train back over the mountains left the snow to Everett Station and then drove back down behind us for good at 5,400 feet just above to Portland where I dropped Chris off for his Crown Point Falls. This was a major score flight back to the Bay Area. because we were able to pick up the pace as it As it turned out, it was a grand adventure was now pretty much all downhill on a hiker’s with a great friend. I had to dig down deep on trail eight more miles to Holden, the most several occasions and it, like most mountain remote continuously inhabited community journeys for me, was spiritual as well. I grew in the contiguous 48 states. Making bus up Lutheran (still am) so arriving at the reservations prior to the tour, I was told to be Lutheran retreat at Holden Village felt like at the bus loading platform in Holden at 10 coming home in a way even though I had a.m.; we arrived there at one minute after the never been there before. In some literature I hour after our forced march out. My feet, wet picked up there, I found a copy of the Eric from the morning’s stream crossings and eithdays of punishment, were hamburger and, after Milner-White prayer, apparently written after his years as a British army chaplain in taking those infernal ski boots off for the last The Great War and adopted as the “Holden time, I wobbled about on flip flops wincing Prayer”: “O God, you have called your in agony and ecstasy. The bus left about 45 servants to ventures of which we cannot see minutes later and took us 11 miles down to the ending, by paths as yet untrodden, though Lucerne on the shore of glacially-carved Lake perils unknown. Give us faith to go out with Chelan, where we boarded the Lady Express good courage, not knowing where we go, but ferry for a two and a half hour boat ride down only that your hand is leading us and your love the lake 43 miles to Lake Chelan, possibly the supporting us; though Jesus Christ our Lord. most satisfying boat ride ever. From Chelan, Amen.” In that, I listened and I heard the we took a bus to Wenatchee where Chris had promise again. secured lodging in a Marriott. We celebrated our success long into the night with steaks and beers and then got up early to take the Amtrak

News and Notes Manager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Max Rupert, 503-272-9214 mazama.lodge@mazamas.org

“Wow, the lodge looks great!” That was the recent reaction one of our longtime visitors had after seeing the freshly painted lodge and the newly refinished hardwood floors. Another guest agreed but was concerned it looked too nice.

“Are the Mazamas fixing up their lodge to sell? Because if they are it may never look this nice again!” Thank you Lodge Committee and Executive Council for getting the lodge in such great condition.

We are fortunate to have such a beautifully maintained lodge.

We still have a few spots available for our upcoming Yoga Weekend at the lodge scheduled for Oct. 4 and 5. Our newly finished hardwood floors will make your yoga experience better than ever.

This past summer we had a wonderful visit from a former Mazama, Linda Ann Kern. Linda joined the Mazamas while a student at Portland’s Grant High School.

Her main reason for joining was to have a warm place to stay while skiing at Mt. Hood in the winter. She joined

in 1955—her sophomore year of high school. She had such fond memories of going to the old lodge, and she spent the next 50 years telling her husband how wonderful Mazama Lodge was. She and her husband live in New Mexico, and this summer Linda stopped by to see the “New Lodge.” The last time she saw the lodge was her senior year in High School in 1958. After the lodge burned down, Linda made a donation (along with 300 other members) to build the new lodge.

She had never seen the new lodge until this summer. She was so pleased to see the lodge and excited to see her name on the list of donors that helped bring the lodge to future generations of families to enjoy.

We had a recent school group cancel so if you are looking for a quiet weekend to enjoy the lodge we recommend the weekend of Oct. 25 and 26—this is also prime mushroom picking season.

Membership Report • August 2013 Applications for Membership: .......................................31 Barry Abrams—Old Snowy Jacob Bell—Old Snowy Suzi Bennett—Old Snowy Brett Buesnel—Mt. Adams Amber Beyer—Mt. Hood Christina Carter-Polzel—South Sister Brendan Dell—Mt. St. Helens Blair Edmiston—Mt. St. Helens Teresa George—Mt. Hood Jill Gladish—South Sister Amy Goodwin—Mt. St. Helens Bhaskar Gowda—Mt. Adams Shelby Hampton—Mt. St. Helens Jeremiah Hess—Mt. Hood Jenn Hunsicker—Mt. Adams Dae Woong Kim—Mt. Santis (Switzerland)

Michael Masat—Mt. St. Helens John Moore—Old Snowy Jeff Nelson—South Sister Sidim Nicholas—Mt. St. Helens Dean Sheasgreen—Mt. Hood Randy Smith—St. Helens Donna Stevens—Mt. Hood Charles Stilwell—Mt. Adams Eric Swanson—Mt. St. Helens Clay Tidwell—S. Arapaho (CO) Michael Tippie—Mt. Hood Jill Torberson—Mt. Adams Christopher Ward—Mt. Rainier Blake Womack—Mt. St. Helens Justin Wright—Mt. Adams

Reinstatements: �����������������������������������������������������������5 David Keith (1986), Keith Miller (1948), Janet Nickolaus (1983), Christine Shipley (1996), Keith Taylor

TOTAL MEMBERSHIP August 31, 2013: �������������������������������������������������� 3,356 August 31, 2012: �������������������������������������������������� 3,208

Membership Benefits Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20% Eddie Bauer (online and all locations) 40% off First Ascent Line with their Pro Discount card (see our website) Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15% Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15% The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals Mountaineers Books (www. mountaineersbooks.org use code MZORE) 20% Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10% Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% nonsale items only Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly-priced memberships Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularlypriced items Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, OR) 10% U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

Luna Peak

by Jessica Beauchemin

It has been said that Luna Peak has one of the best views in the North Cascades. But few people ever experience this view because of the rugged, long approach and lack of technical objectives. It takes a seriously determined person to put in that much work to get someplace without a mind-blowing rock or ice climb to top off the effort. I was one of seven such people who set out to ascend Luna Peak on this trip.

Eugene Lewins led this strong and determined crew: Angela Bohlke, Simeon Dreyfuss, Eric Einspruch, Rebecca Schob, Alex Smirnov and myself.

It all began at the Ross Dam Trailhead, which was packed with cars. The Ross Lake National Recreation Area is a playground for hikers, backpackers, fishermen, canoers and kayakers. There’s resort accommodations, lakeside, boat-in camping and backcountry camping. At the parking lot, we laced up our boots for a quick one-mile downhill jaunt to the lakeshore, where we’d pick up a water taxi that would take us across the lake.

The boat ride was short but exhilarating. We sped across the clear, blue lake and exited the boat when it reached the other side. All along the way, we gawked at the tall and unfamiliar mountain peaks in all directions. We sat eagerly in anticipation of the long climb ahead.

The walk along Big Beaver Trail was lovely. The trail was relatively flat, with small, rolling rises and dips.

We meandered beneath giant cedar trees as the path traveled further and further from Ross Lake. It took all afternoon to get to our camp. Feeling heavy under the weight of my pack on this, my first overnight trip of the year, I plodded along slowly. I was thrilled Alex crosses Big Beaver Creek. to arrive at Luna Camp, where we all got settled and excitedly compared tents, cookstoves, and meal choices.

Day one turned out to be a walk in the park. The next day, we walked about a mile and a half further up Big Beaver Trail to a cairn marking what we thought was the start of the bushwhack. Off we headed into the brush to find a way to cross Big Beaver Creek. As we pushed through devil’s club and various edible forest berries, it became apparent that this would not be an easy task. After much deliberation and scouting, we settled on walking across a single log that looked far more perilous than it turned out to be.

Once across the creek, we stashed a cache of supplies that we wouldn’t need for our high camp: tents, spare first aid supplies, water shoes, etc. This is where the real fun began. And by fun, I mean not fun.

For several miles, we bushwhacked roughly along Access Creek, crossing it once, and thrashing through a mixture of steep, dense shrubbery and more flat, open forest. At one point in the relatively

16 —Mazama Bulletin

benign forested section, the front of the team upset a colony of ground-nesting bees, whichstung the latter half of the team: Simeon, Angela, and myself.

We ran quickly to try to escape the fury of bees, but I still managed to

Photo: Jessica Beauchemin

As the tall trees diminished, the understory began to thicken. Devil’s club gave way to slide alder, a brand of vegetation notorious for heinous bushwhacking.

get stung four times: on my right hip, behind my left knee, and on my left wrist and elbow.

But there was nothing we could do about that now, so we continued on our journey. As we began to sense that we were nearing the basin and our high camp, the trees parted a bit to provide views of the creek and the rocky canyon containing it. As the tall trees diminished, the understory began to thicken. Devil’s club gave way to slide alder, a brand of vegetation notorious for heinous bushwhacking.

It was critical to maintain just the right distance between the team member on either side in order to prevent being whacked by a branch or whacking the person behind, as well as keeping close enough so you wouldn’t lose them in the thick mat of branches and leaves.

The ground got soft and wet as we approached the creek. “The grass is always greener on the other side,” I thought, as I looked through a window of trees and glimpsed large boulders piled on top of each other just across the way. Oh, how lovely it would be to

get to that side!

The team agreed, and we made another sketchy creek crossing to make it to the heavenly rockpile we’d seen from afar. The walk to camp from here felt like a breeze. We all plopped our gear down in the flat, broad basin beneath Luna Peak and promptly fell off to dreamland for a couple of hours. It was a peaceful and much needed afternoon nap.

Gray clouds flirted with the ridgetops all day through the evening.

There was much talk about the forecast: 50 percent chance of rain and thunderstorms for tomorrow. It sure looked like weather was moving in. Clouds swirled in and out the whole time we sat at camp, debating what Plan A, B, and a number of contingency plans were for every possible scenario. Tomorrow was supposed to be our summit day, but we gave ourselves a slim chance of that happening.

At 4:30 the next morning, our alarm clock (Alex) shouted, “the stars are out!” That meant clear skies, and an opportunity to summit.

Clouds obscure the mountain tops. Photo: Jessica Beauchemin

We ate breakfast, slimmed down our packs for the ascent, and made a beeline for the first gully.

Speaking of bees, by this point my arm and hand had puffed up like a balloon from the previous day’s bee encounter. I had a hard time moving my wrist, and everything was very itchy. The swelling would get worse and worse over the course of the day, which I attributed to the vigorous level of exercise, not some crazy allergic reaction.

As the sun rose, it painted the mountains with orange and yellow.

We ascended slowly, taking some time to acclimate to movement this early in the morning. At the top of the gully, we reached a col. Here, there were amazing views of the Picket range right in front of us, and no sign of the predicted thunderstorms. We quickly powered up with some alpine blueberries and began the traverse through the heather.

Some parts were fairly steep, but they did not necessitate an ice axe, which was suggested in other trip reports. We zipped right across the traverse and then picked a line to reach the summit ridge. Crossing patches of greenery, rock, and snow, we all climbed up to the final saddle, with Luna Peak rising up to the right.

It was here that Simeon chose to hang out, enjoy the views and take care of some blisters while the rest of us made the final scramble to the top. What a spectacular place to relax and enjoy the surroundings in quiet solitude!

The ridgeline leading up Luna Peak was bouldery and fairly solid.

It never got too steep or treacherous. The rest of the walk was very pleasant, and the views on a clear day would be second to none. At this point, high clouds obscured the mountaintops, and occasionally dropped down to fill the valley. We enjoyed peekaboo views of Luna, Challenger, and other craggy peaks extending out in all directions.

At the false summit, we sat down and savored the chocolaty treats that Eric brought up for us, surrounded in a gray fog. The true summit lay just a few minutes walk away, along a sketchy ridge that popped in and out of view. We weren’t interested in making that trek today.

We returned the way we came, back down to the saddle, then down an alleged chimney, across a snowfield, and back to the vegetated traverse. It felt a little steeper this time around. At the top of the gully, we split into two teams so we wouldn’t shed too much rock down on one another. Going down that last steep bit was bone-jarring, and I was elated to get back to camp.

But our day wasn’t over yet. We still had to complete the bushwhack and return to the trail, where we’d try to find a place to

spend the night. We were all dreading this part. In an effort to make the walk a little easier, we followed some cairns to try to locate a better place to cross the creek. This was a success. We avoided the slide alder, then popped out on a rough path that was much easier to walk on than our random path on the way up. The hardest part was going down the final steep descent to reach Big Beaver Creek and our gear cache. Miraculously, we hadn’t been rained on, and our unbelievable luck would continue as we made our final creek crossing..

We all mentally prepared for the final stage of the bushwhack along the creek. We decided that following a compass bearing and going right towards the trail was the best choice, to try to shave some time.

One by one, we filed out in a line, pouring our last stores of energy into tired leg muscles and complaining knees.

Not two minutes later, we stumbled across the trail. TWO MINUTES. We all looked at each other in disbelief, then smiled and praised the forest gods for this luck. After a short break here, we walked briskly towards camp! We hoped there would be an empty spot at Luna Camp and sure enough, there was. We all unpacked, set up tents for the night, ate dinner and crashed.

The last day was a repeat of the 10-mile walk along Big Beaver Trail. Again we sorted out into two groups and took off. My body was tired, but my mind was focused on reaching the lake. Based on the speed of the team, I guessed I wasn’t the only one who felt that way.

Four of us reached the halfway point at 39-mile camp in just under an hour and a half. We re-supplied with cold stream water and hightailed it down to Ross Lake.

We were set to meet our water taxi at 2:15 and arrived at the lake by about noon. That gave us two hours to take off our boots, swim, lay down, eat the rest of our food, and bask in the glorious sunshine reflecting off the lake. What a perfect way to spend the afternoon.

The last boat ride felt bittersweet. I couldn’t stop grinning as I looked back at the green mountains, sparkling lake, and wisps of snow on the high peaks. Once on the other side, I had a nice chat with Eugene as we slogged methodically up the final mile to the cars. My body had been on autopilot all day today, and that mile passed in an instant. The team met up for one last dinner at the barbecue place in Marblemount, then we began the long drive to Portland.

Overall, I had an extraordinary experience in the North Cascades.

This trip to Luna Peak was one hell of a way to start my climbing season.

October 2013—17

Successful Climbers May 4, St Helens, Swift Creek.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Justin Colquhoun. Dennis Damici, Brendan Dell, Frank Mifsud, Stacey Redington, Aaron Rogers, Cyndy Rutto

Aug. 13, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Carol Bryan. Rick Busing, Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Martin Gillen, John Hamann, Daniel Robinson, Karen Vernier

Aug. 20, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Walter Keutel. Dave Budnik, Amad Doratotaj, Shane Harlson, Wendell Hartlauer, Teresa Redman, Caleb Sattgast

June 2, Mt. Shasta, Clear Creek.

Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Sue Dimin, Brad Hupy, Andrew Rowlett, Mark Stave, Rachel Tramel

Aug. 13, Thompson Peak, South Couloir. Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Paul Steger. Pam Rigor

Aug. 20, Silver Peak, South Ridge. Leader: Ray Sheldon. Gary Beyl, Cecille Beyl, Jim Craig, Flora Huber, Lacy Turner

June 8, Mt. Hood, South Side. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Ken Biehler. Justin Colquhoun, Brendan Dell, Brad Hulquist, Kirsten Labudda, Rico Micallef, Frank Mifsud, Silas Morgan, Neil Zaehringer

Aug. 14, Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier. Leader: Matt Carter, Asst: Quentin Carter. Michael Hortsch, Bruce Nisker, Andreas Wunderle

Aug. 21, Eagle Cap, Standard.

Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Terry Donahe. Greg Clark, Jason Eckess, Darin Richardson, Maggie Woodward

July 6, Aiguille de Toule, East Ridge. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Gary Bishop, Carol Bryan, Mike DeLaune July 7, Mt. Adams, South Side.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Andreas Wunderle. Connor Chamberlin, Michael Dahlin, Michael Magyar, Karin Masunari, Rico Micallef, Cyndy Rutto, Bob Tuzik July 15, Rocher des Mottes, Voie Caline. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Shirley Welch. Gary Bishop, Carol Bryan, Mike Delaune July 28, Mt. Bailey, Standard.

Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Rico Micallef. Kim Edger, Cyndy Rutto Aug. 4, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Daniel Bailey, Asst: Shane Harlson. Brennen Bendel, Dave Budnik, Eric Kennedy

Aug. 17, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Lori Freeman, Asst: Ania Wiktorowicz. Steve Cook, Dan Gibson, Sue Griffith, Tamara Haspels, Pam Joyner, Morgan Joyner, Richard LaDuke, Noelle Savatta Aug. 17, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Amy Mendenhall, Asst: Larry Beck. Dave Aerne, Lisa Brady, Ardel Frick, Mike Leonard-Maguire, Daniel Mick, Jolly Righetti, Diana Schweitzer, Trais Schweitzer, Steven Wagoner, Shannon Walls Aug. 18, Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats. Leader: Lisa Ripps, Asst: Michael Hynes. Jacob Bell, Kline Bentley, Sherry Bourdin, Hugo Cordova, Kelly Fagan, David Noyes, Christine Peterson, Nicole Tobin Aug. 18, Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier. Leader: Linda E. Mark, Asst: Greg Scott. Jocelyn Hurley, Kim Osgood, John Rettig

Aug. 19, Aneroid Mountain, Aug. 6, Mt. Baal, South Ridge.

Standard. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Terry Donahe. Greg Clark, Jason Rigor. Cathy Gaylord, Drew Gaylord, Eckess, Maggie Howard, Darin Cloudy Sears Richardson Aug. 6, She Devil, NE Ridge.

Aug. 20, Mt. Adams, South Leader: Bob Breivogel, Asst: Pam Side. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Rigor. Drew Gaylord, Cathy Gaylord, Franciso Ianni. Mark Scurrah Cloudy Sears Aug. 20, Cusick Mountain, Aug. 10, 3-Fingered Jack, South North Ridge. Leader: Gary Bishop, Ridge. Leader: Rick Posekany, Asst: Terry Donahe. Greg Clark, Asst: Jessica Deans. Mark Beyer, Jason Eckess, Darin Richardson, Amy Graham, Alicia Imbody, Maggie Woodward Brad Megee, Seth Moore, Helene Simon, Jonathon Skeen Aug. 20, Sentenial Peak, Standard. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Terry Donahe. Greg Clark, Jason Eckess, Darin Richardson, Maggie Woodward

18 —Mazama Bulletin

Aug. 22, Guye Peak, North Ridge. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Gary Beyl. Cecille Beyl, Jeff Earl, Flora Huber, Nancy Lloyd, Stewart Pagenstecher Aug. 23, Matterhorn, Ice Lake. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Terry Donahe. Greg Clark, Jason Eckess, Darin Richardson, Maggie Woodward

Aug. 31, Mt. Maude, South Shoulder. Leader: Doug Wilson, Asst: Drew Gaylord. Barb Cooper, Dan Gates, Cathy Gaylord Aug. 31, Sperry Peak, NW Ridge. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: John Meckel. Preston Corless, Margaret McCarthy Aug. 31, Mt. Stuart, Cascadian Couloir. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Howie Davis. Ardel Frick, Martin Gillen, Chris Killmer, Michelle Van Kleeck Aug. 31, Black Peak, SE Ridge.

Leader: Robert Joy, Asst: Whit Fellers.

Adam Bunting, Jessica Deans, Lisa Hemesath, Rod Limprecht Aug. 31, 3-Fingered Jack, South Ridge. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Gary Ballou. Kim Hefty, Paul Johnson, Marta Martinez, Jesus Martinez, Joan Wallace, Erin Wirtz

Aug. 31, Matterhorn & Sacajawea, Ice Lake. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Colleen Sinsky.

Howard Buck, John Hanmann, Aug. 24, Mt. Buckner, North Face. Leader: Jeffrey Welter, Asst: Eric Dave Harkins, Nicole Kilian, Chad Brainich. Jeff Diephuis, Kelly Jaske, Kilian Paul Montgomery, Kai Waldron Sept. 1, Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys. Leader: Vaqas Malik, Aug. 24, Broken Top, NW Asst: Brad Wood. Tyler Bax, Laura Ridge. Leader: James Jula, Asst: Bax, Brinda Ganesh, Daniel Karen Vernier. Bob Gravely, Ben Robinson, Ankush Varma Kester, Whitney Lindahl, John Wilson Sept. 1,7 Finger jack, Aug. 24, Luna Peak, SW Ridge. Southwest Slope. Leader: Doug Leader: Eugene Lewins, Asst: Rebecca Wilson, Asst: Cathy Gaylord. Dan Schob. Jessica Beauchemin, Angela Gates, Drew Gaylord Bohlke, Eric Einspruch, Alex Sept. 1, 3-Fingered Jack, South Smirnov Ridge. Leader: Rick Posekany, Asst: Peter Tauzon. Audrey Brown, Bob Aug. 24, Mt. Thielsen, West Ridge. Leader: Josh Lockerby, Asst: Kidney, Anna Kidney, Andrea Ania Wiktorowicz. Justin Colquhoun, Ogston, Jonathon Scheff, Andreas Wunderle Sarah D. Root, Michael Demeir, Dave Harkins, Alicia Imbody, Ryan Sept. 2, Mt. St Helens, Monitor Reed, Ed Rei, Lawrence S. Welsh, Ridge. Leader: Bruce Yatvin, Asst: Leslie Shotola, Jonathan Skeen Ted Slupesky. Jim Casella, Murray Gusseck, Tamara Haspels, Stephen Aug. 28, Mt. Washington, Heitner, Stewart Pagenstecker, North Ridge. Leader: Ellen Emma Scott, Sergei Sveshnikov, Gradison, Asst: Garry Stephenson.

Benjamin Grandy, Tim Hale, Marty Tom Waldron Hinkle, Whitney Lindahl, Jacob continued on next page Nead, Tom Sandahl Aug. 30, Vesper Peak, North Face. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Preston Corless. Margaret McCarthy, John Meckel

Mazama Families

Fri–Sun, Oct. 4–6: First Annual Smith Rock Weekend Head to the Oregon High Desert in early October for a day or a weekend of family fun! We will car camp at Skull Hollow Campground Friday and Saturday evening, sharing in a potluck, campfire, smores and ghost stories.

Saturday and Sunday we will offer hikes around Skull Hollow, Smith Rock park, set up top ropes off North Point, and get as many rope leaders to offer climbing on single and multi-pitch routes around the park as possible. We will set up kid-swapping so parents can get on some adult climbs while their children are safe and sound with like-minded parents. Also, groups can explore the Corn Maze and activities at the Central Oregon Pumpkin Company. Come for a day, an evening or the whole weekend!

Leader: Azure Olson. Contact families@mazamas.org for more information or to register.

Tues, Oct 21, 6–8 p.m.: MMC Rock Wall Family night Let’s gather for some climbing and skills teaching on the MMC Rock wall for kids and parents. Child’s harness will be provided for those who do not have their own. We will have a toddler table set up for those too young to climb to give their parents and older siblings a chance to climb.

Feel free to bring along some dinner and/or snacks! RSVP to families@mazamas.org .

Tues, Oct. 15, 6 p.m; Hopworks Social —Change of Venue—RSVP requested Join us as we catch up on the summer and make plans for the winter. We have reserved the banquet room at the kid friendly SE Powell Blvd HUB for a pizza and beer social—kids, of course, are welcome! We might even get around to a bit of business – planning events and a few announcements. To keep things easy we will put in an order for pizza on the day of the gathering once we have tallied the RSVPs. We will share in the cost of pizza with an honor system donation. Drinks and other food on your own tab. If we happen to raise more than our pizza tab, we will use the money to buy a kid’s play table for the MMC! RSVP to families@mazamas.org .

Mon, Nov. 4, 6:30 p.m.: Group meeting Anyone interested in helping the Families Group move Peter, Jennifer, and Sophia at forward are welcome. Kid’s Mirror Lake. Photo: Jim Selby. games with supervision will be organized in the Holman Auditorium. RSVP to families@ mazamas.org .

For more information on Mazama Family activities tinyurl. com/mazamafamilies. To join our email list please drop us a line at families@mazamas.org.

successful climbers, continued from previous page Sept. 7, South Sister, Devils Lake. Leader: Lori Freeman, Asst: Monica Lyster. Bertie August, Megan Johnson, George Keepers, Ricahrd LaDuke, Maxine Schwartz, Leslie Shotola, Bill Stein, Basil Stein, Alice Tarachow

Sept. 14, Gothic Peak, East Side. Leader: John Meckel.

Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Brad Crowley, Lee Davis, Jean Hillebrand, Daniel Mick

Sept. 8, Mt. Jefferson, South Ridge. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Karl Helser. Pam Gilmer, Marty Guenther, Deb Hill, Rob Parker, Karen Vernier

Sept. 14, Del Campo Peak, South Gully. Leader: Rayce Boucher, Asst: Lee Davis. Stephanie Bruckbauer, Francisco CardenasWaller, Brad Crowley, Jean Hillebrand, John Meckel, Daniel Mick

Sept. 10, Plummer Peak, Pinnacle Saddle. Leader: Ray Sheldon, Asst: Stan Enevoldsen.

Gary Beyl, Cecil Beyl

Sept. 14, Dumbell Mountain, SW Ridge. Leader: Eugene Lewins, Asst: Bob Gravely. Tim Collins, David Stein

Sept. 10, South Early Winter Spire, South Arete. Leader: Marty Scott, Asst: Shirley Welch.

Carol Bryan, Doug Wilson

Sept. 14, Washington-Elinor, Traverse. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Trent Carlisle. Faisal Alisdairi, Susan Denton, Dana Hardman, Robert Sinnott, Maggie Tomberlin, Maggie Woodward

Sept. 11, North Early Winter Spire, South Face. Leader: Shirley Welch, Asst: Marty Scott. Carol Bryan, Doug Wilson

Sept. 14, Goat Island Peak, Full Traverse. Leader: Kevin Clark, Asst: Justin Elson. Erin Devlin, Morgan Harvey, Ellen Maderfield, David Noyes, Jen Travers

October 2013—19

Mazama Annual Meeting & Volunteer Appreciation Picnic

Mazama Tree Planting Event Help Us! Plant • • •

trees, scrubs, and wetland plants to: Reduce CO2 Restore a watershed Create habitat

Oct. 7; 5 p.m. at the MMC

Council hosts this picnic to honor our volunteers for all they have done this year. We strongly encourage committee chairs to attend the picnic and Annual Meeting to give your annual reports and brag about what your committee has accomplished.

Date: Monday, Oct. 7. Picnic begins at 5 p.m. at the MMC. Meeting begins at 6:30 p.m.

Agenda: Results of the voting for Executive Council. Annual reports from the president, treasurer, secretary, executive director, foundation, and committee chairs.

Council election of officers follows.

Join Us! • Saturday, Oct. 19; 9 a.m.–2 p.m.

• Carpool leaves the MMC at 8 a.m.

OR meet at the Zigzag Ranger Station (70220 E. Hwy 26) at 9 a.m.

• Bring lunch, work gloves, rubber boots (optional) and be prepared for various weather conditions.

To register: call 503-227-2345 or send an email to conservation@mazamas.org.

Brough to you by: The Mazamas, The US Forest Service, and the Sandy River Basin Watershed Council.

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AYM Activities The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeting those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s, and of course anyone who is “Young at Heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

by Paul Kallman

Just because fall has arrived doesn’t mean that we have slowed our activities. In fact, October is one of our favorite months to be outdoors because of the beautiful fall colors that have painted our mountain landscape in vibrant yellows, oranges and reds. This year we have a beginner’s backpack, a Lemei Rock climb and a number of awesome hikes. Check out our website at tinyurl.com/ mazamaaym and our complete and up to date schedule. And, don’t forget to swing by the AYM table and say hello at Discovery Night on Monday, Oct. 14.

Saturday, Oct. 05: Hike—Salmon River The beauty of this hike is in its simplicity.

Starting along the Salmon River, we will take in the majestic old growth forest and a final short climb to an overlook of the canyon.

Hopefully timing will be in our favor for good fall vine maple colors and returning salmon. The pace will be easy and there will be many opportunities for photos. The upper section is within a wilderness area so group will be limited to 12 heartbeatscontact leader to sign up. Leader: Sarah Miller. Exploratory Hike: 6.5miles, 1,000 ft. Drive: 100 miles(1.25 hour drive time) Forest Pass Required. Experienced trail dogs welcomed. To start the day out right, come join me at Bob’s Red Mill 5000 SE Industrial Way, Milwaukie, for an optional wholesome breakfast at 8:30am. Contact leader for alternate meeting spot if not interested in breakfast. Leader: Sarah Miller Sunday, Oct. 06: Hike—Table Rock Let’s sneak in an October hike before winter hits! Table Rock is a 4,881 ft. remnant of the Old Cascades jutting above the Camp Creek and Table Rock Fork of the Molalla River drainages and buttressed

by sheer cliffs of lichen-splashed columnar basalt. This hike is 7.2 miles with 1570 feet elevation gain. The summit is at 4,881 feet. If the weather is nice, we should have stunning views. Wilderness area requires limit of 12. Please contact leader to reserve your spot. Meeting spot will be in Molalla in the Safeway parking lot (NW corner) at the intersection of highways 211 and 213 at 9:30 a.m. Leader will email participants as a group to arrange carpools from Portland as necessary. Drive from Molalla is about 28 miles one way. Leader: Erin Devlin

x-train wellness rehab Weekly Yoga Classes Therapeutic Massage www.MassageWithEugene.com 503-939-9657 LMT 16438

Saturday Oct. 12: Climb—Lemei Rock (Advance sign up required) This is a Mazama climb up the highest point in the Indian Heaven Wilderness. We will go off trail and scramble up 3rd class rock to the summit. Comfort with un-roped rock scrambling and some exposure are needed for this climb. If we have the time and desire we will bushwack our way up to the top of Bird Mountain. This is an area know for fall colors. If the rock is wet we will hike through the area to enjoy the landscape instead. We will meet in town early Saturday morning for the drive to the trailhead, returning the same day.

Exploratory hike for leader. The drive is 85 miles one way. 8.6 miles, 1,900 ft. Advance registration required, please email the leader if you are interested in this climb. Andrew Bodien, andrew@bodien.org.

Sat-Sun, Oct 5-6: Backpacking Trip for People Who Are Afraid of Backpacking—Indian Heaven (Advance sign up required) Does the idea of spending a night or two in a beautiful spot in the wilderness, sleeping under the stars sound appealing but beyond your current reach? If backpacking is something you’ve wanted to try, but are in a car-camping and day-hiking rut, join us for a weekend of backpacking and learning together in a fun, safe, and non-intimidating environment! Leaders Karl Langenwalter and Colleen Sinsky love nothing more than supporting people as they push their limits and are firmly committed to the idea that everyone should be having a good time while doing it. There will be two meetings ahead of time to meet the team over a beer, go over your OLD GROWTH FOREST CABIN HALF–SHARE FOR SALE gear, safety, and IN THE TRAPPER CREEK WILDERNESS—$55,000 Leave No Trace Location: Government Mineral Springs (GMS), Trapper principles, arrange Creek Wilderness, Gifford Pinchot National Forest. (90 minute gear sharing, drive from Portland). carpools and meals CABIN 24 is a completely restored, warm, comfortable, and answer any and private cabin nestled in one of the Northwest’s most questions. We will spectacular and pristine natural forest ecosystems. camp at picturesque This is a half-ownership sale shared with a delightful Acker Lake in couple from Portland. Contact Dick at 503-704-5084 or, email

Supporting outdoor enthusiasts

Eugene Lewins

Indian Heaven Wilderness, where the fall colors should be in full swing. Total hike: 17 miles, 1,000 ft., 150 miles driving. NW Forest parking pass required for each car.

Group will be capped at ten. $5 members, $10 non-members. Please contact both Colleen Sinsky and Karl Langenwalter to sign up. Backpacking application can be found here: http://mazamas.org/pdf/forms/ ttc_backpack_carcamp_app.pdf

at Cabin_24@yahoo.com

Slimy Leaves and MMC Landscaping: A Mazama Volunteer Success Story

By Jamie Anderson and Kati Mayfield

After doing a few hikes with the Mazamas, new member Steve Polzel fell in love with the program and wanted to somehow give back to the organization.

So he looked into volunteering with the Mazamas and attended a meeting about becoming a regular Mazama volunteer.

After the meeting was over, several of the attendees were asked if they’d go outside and rake the slimy, rotten leaves which had fallen from the trees in the south lot months earlier.

Having worked for a landscaping company previously, Steve took interest in the fact that there was nobody consistently taking care of the yard around the MMC. Steve came on board during the winter, and dead leaves had just been lying around decaying for quite a while, which had caused much of the grass underneath the leaves to die. The slippery leaves also created a fall hazard for pedestrians and produced a rancid odor which neighbors of the MMC were forced to bear. After a little thought Steve asked Kati Mayfield, our Volunteer Manager, if the Mazamas would like him to regularly volunteer by taking care of the property. She directed Steve to MMC facility manager Rick Craycraft, who was more than enthusiastic about letting Steve take on that job.

Ever since then Steve has spent whatever spare time he’s had at the MMC-- sometimes in the afternoon, sometimes in the evening, but mostly in the early morning. Since his occupation as a full-time paramedic has him working a regular 3 a.m.–3 p.m. shift, even on his days off Steve’s eyes will pop open by 4 a.m. and he’s unable to go back to sleep.

Steve jokes that he often startles early morning walkers when he looks up from his pruning and catches them in the beam of his headlamp.

Over the past five months since he began managing the MMC landscaping, Steve has completed such tasks as cutting the low-hanging limbs from all the large trees on the lot; trimming and pruning the bushes throughout the property; weeding the flower beds, which has

22 —Mazama Bulletin

included the painful task of pulling out the large thickets of wild blackberry bushes; edging the lawn; planting new grass seed; planting new bushes; watering the lawn and any newly installed plants two to three times per week; mowing the lawn; weed eating areas which could not be mowed; selectively applying herbicide to remove invasive weeds throughout the flower beds and the bioswale (drainage ditch) in the parking lot; and removing numerous concrete scraps which had been mysteriously left on the MMC lot some time ago. Steve even pruned the neighbors’ growth-— with their permission, of course—which was protruding onto the west side of the Mazama property. This made both sets of neighbors very happy, having experienced pruning done at no cost and to have all the clippings hauled away for them free of charge! Steve has also received many compliments from other neighbors, pedestrians and Mazama members.

Steve has recruited a number of other volunteers to help him with this work.

First, he consulted with member Dick Pugh, who had been responsible for the original planning and design of the MMC landscaping. Dick has advised Steve on how to remain true to the original intention of populating the MMC landscape with native, alpine plants common to the Pacific Northwest, and has provided a number of new plants to place about the property. Steve has also organized two workdays (one in April and one in May) which helped knock out many of the invasive blackberry bushes, spread bark dust, plant new trees and shrubs, and power wash moss and algae off the front of the building. Thanks go out to Tom Nelson, Kevin Vandemore,

Doug Wilson, Maggie Woodward, Lee and Graham Davis, Kim Edger, Dave Harkins, Kati Mayfield and Jamie Anderson for pitching in on the work days. The bark dust was provided at a greatly reduced rate by Mt. Scott Fuel; Red Square Café donated coffee and donuts; and generous members of our

Steve directing traffic.

neighboring Friends church, like Dave Ek, helped haul away the debris. Thanks also to Maggie Woodward, Dan Smith, Scott Peterson, Gary Riggs and Janet Toman for pitching in over the summer to help maintain all the progress made this spring.

For the MMC to maintain its best face forward and be a model community steward, we need to continue this necessary maintenance of the MMC landscape. Steve forecasts that it will be relatively simple to manage our naturally decorative setting throughout the year as long as there are willing volunteers to help him out. Therefore, anyone and everyone is invited to help Steve at any time. If you are interested please contact Kati Mayfield at kati@mazamas.org.

Adventure Travel LOCAL • NATIONAL • INTERNATIONAL 2013

Trekking in Patagonia Feb. 8–22, 2014 At the southern end of the Earth lies a wide, windswept, wonderful land called Patagonia. Though it’s technically in both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a place of its own, a land of calving glaciers, vast lakes, awesome steppes and peaks so jagged and immense they pause the mind and stir the heart. Patagonia calls to the adventure traveler and mainly to the hiker.

Once in Patagonia, we will spend two weeks doing both day hikes and multi-day hikes both in Chile and Argentina. We’ll day-hike into the mighty range of peaks dominated by Monte Fitz Roy, an 11,020ft. tower whose sheer face of more than 6,000 ft. makes it one of the world’s most challenging climbs. We’ll also catch views of the Continental Ice Field and even walk on the surface of the sprawling Perito Moreno Glacier. In Chile we will visit the Torres del Paine National Park. Here lie the famous Towers of Paine. In the park, we’ll hike hutto-hut for five days along the “W” Circuit (named for its shape), winding in and out of spectacular mountain valleys, past Grey Glacier and up the spectacular French Valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers and an amphitheater of granite walls and spires.

Contact donovan@embarkadventures.com for more details. $3,995 per person excluding air fare. Need a minimum of eight people to go.

The Mother of All Street Rambles: New York City April 29-May 7, 2014 Lodging is in a very desirable location close to Central Park. Hike Central Park and visit sites of interest all over Manhattan—Hudson River, East River, and Long Island—via Ramble and occasional ferry or subway. Ride in the Five Boro Bike Tour. It is time that New York City learns who the Mazamas are! NYC will seem a lot smaller once it is rambled! This outing is priced based on a group of 20. Initial registration fee has three tiers which include Mazama fees and $128 refundable security deposit and miscellaneous fees.

Two to a bed: $725; Single bed: $850; Sleeping bag (count must match single bed registrations): $600.

Airfare ($320–$400) is not included and not required at time of registration.

All registration money goes to lodging and

outings

miscellaneous refundable fees.

Leader: John A. Davis (503-358-5900).

Co-Leader: Steven Watts.

For pictures of lodging, itinerary, additional information, and additional costs see the outing’s website: http://208.106.134.151/NYC2014.aspx

Italian Dolomites Outing May 31–June 15, 2014 This outing will consist of alpine climbing, rock climbing, via ferrata (self-belayed on existing anchors and cables with specialized leashes or kits), hiking, mountain biking and exploring. Group size will be limited to 12 people for a maximum team size of 14 including myself and the assistant leader.

Minimum group size will be 7.

We will fly into Milan on Sat. May 31 and Sun., June 1—people arriving early have a day to spend exploring Milan. We will rent two box vans and drive to Arco to spend three nights exploring the heart of Italy’s sport climbing mecca. Arco also offers sailing and wind surfing on Lake Garda plus mountain biking in the hills above the lake. From there we will drive to the quaint little town of Antermoia with the objective of climbing a fairly easy via ferrata up the Sass de Putia.

Then we move on to our primary base camp of the trip in Cortina d’Ampezzo (home of the 1956 Winter Olympics)—this is a major base of operations opening up access to some of the coolest terrain in the Dolomites including Tre Cima de Lavaredo, Tofana di Rozes and Cinque Torre. Next up, is Canazei where we can access the highest peak in the Dolomites, The Marmolada, as well as the famous Sassonger and other climbing around Corvara and Colfusco. Finally, we will head back to Milan via Lake Como.

This outing will potentially include climbing of all levels; rock climbing of all grades, all day multi-pitch routes, via ferrata levels from 1 to 5, spectacular trails for hiking and biking plus waterfalls and plenty of amazing scenery. In addition to all of that, the area is steeped in history surrounding World War I and the mountain war that took place between Austria and Italy. We will tour a museum dedicated to the mountain war as

well as explore hidden outposts and see relics of the past while we walk in the footsteps of the soldiers that lived and fought in these jagged mountains.

Since we will have multiple hiking and climbing leaders on this trip, we can utilize our two vehicles in addition to the busses and lifts in every town so each member of the group will have plenty of options to split up and do whatever activity they choose to do each day.

For more information, contact outing leader: Ryan Christie @ ryandchristie@yahoo. com. The assistant leader is Kevin Clark @ mandrake@europa.com.

Corsica Long-Distance Hiking June 14–30, 2014 Seeking a long-distance hike with spectacular scenery, culture and typically great summer weather?

The GR20, “one of the top trails in the world,” according to outdoor writer Paddy Dillon, winds 125 miles along the crest of the island of Corsica.

This is not a plod along with your mind on something else kind of a trail, but a rocky and varying high route with scrambling options and both alpine and ocean views.

Using a local company as outfitters, we will carry only day packs and sleep in refuges or set tents, enjoying simple local cuisine at group meals. 16 days of hiking, with the longest day being 13 miles and 3,300 ft. ascent, and highest altitude 7,300 ft.

We will hike from south to north, leaving the climactic Cirque de la Solitude for the second week, and enjoy the best light for photography.

The island of Corsica, administered as part of France but with its own unique culture, makes a destination both accessibly westernEuropean and yet exotically Mediterranean.

Trip leader speaks French and both leader and assistant have led European tours and hiked long-distance trails. Group size 8– 10, outing costs $3,000 plus airfare, $500 deposit.

Leader: Eugene Lewins (eugene.lewins@ gmail.com), Assistant Leader: Paul Gerald (paul@paulgerald.com)

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seattlemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

October 2013—23

Smith Rock Climbers’ Ranch Proposal FAQ’s What’s this all about?

The The Mazamas Mazamas Foundation Foundation secured secured the the right to purchase property adjacent to the park for development property adjacent to the park for development as a program program center center and/or and/or overnight overnight lodging lodging facility. Because we’re assuming that overnight lodging we’re assuming that overnight lodging would be a piece of the the vision vision we’ve we’ve started started calling calling this this the the Smith Rock Climbers’ Climbers’ Ranch.

Ranch.

We We need need your your feedback feedback to to decide decide ifif and how to proceed with with this this opportunity. opportunity. Your Your ideas ideas will will shape the vision of what what this this property property could could become. become.

There There are are many many options. options. Mazamas Mazamas could do nothing and the foundation foundation would would most most likely likely buy buy and sell the property the

for a net gain over time. The property could could be be given given to to the the park or developed by another club. It could also also be be developed in partnership with other groups or or exclusively exclusively through the Mazamas. The scale of our actions actions would would likely likely be based on the answer to these questions.

It could become the Mazamas Central Oregon Oregon program program center at which we teach classes and hold events events or or simply simply be be a series of small cabins similar to the Grand Teton Teton Climbers’ Climbers’ Ranch.

The current plan is to spend the next full year researching and gathering ideas.

What do YOU think?

How did the Mazamas Foundation secure the property?

Two years years ago: ago: The The Two Mazamas were were notified notified privately privately Mazamas of an an opportunity opportunity to to purchase purchase aa of parcel of of land land adjacent adjacent to to Smith Smith parcel Rock State State Park.

Park. The The land land was was Rock (and isis still) still) owned owned by by aa Mazama Mazama (and member. The The site site holds holds aa vacation vacation member. rental home home that that hundreds hundreds of of rental Mazama members members have have enjoyed enjoyed Mazama through the the years. years. These These members members through have talked talked about about the the wonderful wonderful have experience of of climbing climbing for for several several experience days at at Smith Smith Rock Rock with with the the days added convenience convenience of of privacy privacy and and added no need need to to drive drive to to Skull Skull Hollow Hollow no or the the Bivy.

Bivy. Several Several of of these these or members proposed proposed the the idea idea of of the the members Mazamas developing developing the the property property Mazamas so more more of of our our members, members, and and so possibly our classes, could stay possibly our classes, could stay overnight. overnight.

One year ago: The property owner

and the the Mazamas agreed to keep the and opportunity quiet while researching the opportunity feasibility. The property owner didn’t feasibility. want aa flood flood of direct communication want and the the Mazamas was concerned that and indeed the opportunity was unique ifif indeed we might might lose the option to a subset of we members or to another organization. members The Mazamas, Mazamas, in coordination with The the Mazamas Mazamas Foundation, spent nearly the year researching researching the feasibility of aa year developing property at Smith Rock for developing overnight lodging. A task force of overnight members from the Mazamas and the members foundation was formed and an foundation architect was hired to aid in the architect research around issues such as site research capacity, zoning zoning changes, changes, capacity, utilities and community utilities and community concerns. The The work work was was concerns. completed in in the the spring spring of of completed 2013 and and the the task task force force 2013 reported that that the the property property reported could be be developed. developed. could

? Go k n i h you t o d and t g r o .

Wha amas y now! z a m to surve e h t take

Six months ago: The

Mazamas Foundation negotiated a purchase option agreement with the property owner that was signed in June of 2013. The agreement gives the Mazamas Foundation the exclusive right to purchase the property anytime in the next four years in exchange for annual ‘option payments’ that reduce the total purchase price.

Today: Currently the

Mazamas Foundation has secured the property for use and/or potential development.

All costs to date relating to this project project have have been been paid paid by by the the Mazamas Mazamas Foundation.

Foundation. Other Other than than volunteer volunteer and and staff staff time, time, the the Mazamas Mazamas have have not not invested invested in in this this project project to to date. date.

continued on next page

History/Context: The Mazamas have been climbing at Smith Rock for well over 50 years.

Students from Intermediate and Advanced Climbing Schools have been learning how to rock climb, place protection and build anchors at Smith for decades. Rock climbing is exploding in popularity. The number of climbing gyms in the Portland Metro area has doubled in just the last three years and another huge gym will open in the Pearl District in 2014. The parking lot at Smith Rock is full to overflowing every sunny weekend from spring until fall and currently nearly all visitors drive 20-30 minutes after leaving the park before having a meal or sleeping.

Thevision: vision:The Theopportunity opportunityat athand, hand,the theone onethat that The

drovethe theMazamas MazamasFoundation Foundationto toaction, action,isisthat thatof of drove providingsome someform formof ofovernight overnightlodging lodgingfacilities facilitiesto tothe the providing broaderclimbing climbingcommunity. community.This Thisconcept conceptisiscurrently currently broader amorphousand andwe weneed needyour yourinput. input.We’ve We’vebeen beencalling callingitit amorphous a ‘Climbers’ Ranch’ but what that might look like still a ‘Climbers’ Ranch’ but what that might look like isisstill anopen openquestion. question.IsIsitittent tentplatforms platformsand andaashower? shower? an Cabinsor oraahostel? hostel?What Whatdo doclimbers climberswant? want?These Theseare are Cabins questionswe’re we’restill stillexploring exploringand andwe weneed needyour yourideas. ideas. questions Basedon onthe thepositive positivefeasibility feasibilitystudy, study,the thesignificant significant Based increasein inpopularity popularityof ofrock rockclimbing, climbing,and andthe thefact factthat that increase thereisisno noovernight overnightlodging lodgingwithin withinaa20-minute 20-minutedrive driveofof there thepark parkwe webelieve believethat thataasolid solidbusiness businessplan plancan canbe be the developed. developed.

Furthermore,there thereisisaalarger largerquestion questionof ofwhat what Furthermore, involvementthe theMazamas Mazamasshould shouldhave haveininthe theproject. project. involvement Otherorganizations organizationslike likethe theAmerican AmericanAlpine AlpineClub Clubor orthe the Other AccessFund Fundhave haveexpressed expressedstrong stronginterest interestininthe theproject. project.

Access Shouldthe theMazamas Mazamaslead leadthis? this?Should Shouldwe wepartner partnerwith with Should otherorganizations? organizations?Should Shouldthe thefacility facilitybe befor foronly only other membersand andclasses classesor orfor forthe thebroader broadercommunity? community? members

RiskAssessment: Assessment:The Theproperty propertycan canbebepurchased purchasedfor for$270,000. $270,000.

Risk Thefall-back fall-backplan planwould wouldbe befor forthe thefoundation foundationtotoproceed proceedwith withthe the The purchaseand andthen thensell sellititatataalater laterdate datefor fora anet netgain. gain.So, So,the therisk riskfor for purchase this initial step of securing a purchase option was deemed minimal. this initial step of securing a purchase option was deemed minimal.

Timeline:We Weare areexpecting expectingtotospend spend2014 2014planning, planning,gathering gathering Timeline:

moreinformation informationand andscoping scopingout outinitial initialfundraising fundraisingoptions, options, more includingcorporate corporateand andnonprofit nonprofitpartnerships. partnerships.Formal Formalfundraising fundraising including effortscould couldbegin begininin2015 2015with withthe theexpectation expectationofofsimply simplypurchasing purchasing efforts theproperty propertyby bythe theend endofof2016.

2016.InInfuture futureyears, years,additional additional the fundraisingand andpartnership partnershipdevelopment developmentwill willbebenecessary necessaryininorder ordertoto fundraising buildthe theplanned plannedaccommodations. accommodations.IfIfititisisdecided decidedtotodevelop developa a build permanentMazama Mazamafacility facilityacross acrossthe theroad roadfrom fromSmith SmithRock RockState State permanent Park,ititisisestimated estimatedthat thatititwill willtake takeususapproximately approximately10 10years yearstoto Park, complete. complete.

With your input we can build a positive vision of what the Smith Rock Climbers’ Ranch can become and how it can help the Mazamas grow.

Photos: Andrew Holman

We need your input to create a smart and successful vision for a Climbers’ Ranch at Smith Rock.

Mazamas Strategic Plan calls for: •Increasing our program capacity •Community engagement •Increasing the value of membership Please go online to mazamas.org and send us your comments!

October 2013—25

Allison Belcher— A Remarkable Mazama

by Rick Craycraft

As a child in Massachusetts, Allison Logan loved to climb trees.

Later, following her father’s time in the military around the country, she climbed trees wherever they were, finally landing in Corvallis. In 1948, Allison went to college at Oregon State and discovered rock climbing.

She and her fellow students in the school mountaineering club (one of whom ,Willi Unsoeld, became a famous mountaineer) would go to the Coburg Caves to rock climb. After college, Allison moved to England to attend the London School of Economics, and joined its climbing club.

They climbed in England’s Lake District, and in Wales. Allison routinely bicycled from London to these destinations. When she returned to the States to attend the University of Chicago, Allison started a climbing club there. Being poor college students in the mid-1950s, the club members there too would bicycle together to the Wisconsin Dells area of southern Wisconsin.

After all this moving around, Allison set up residence in Portland and was able to go on an Acquaintance Climb with the Mazamas in 1953, led

by Jack Grauer. She joined our organization in 1954.

Allison followed the classic Mazama path through Basic and Intermediate climbing schools and in 1957 was made a full climb leader. She taught independent rock climbing classes for all comers at Rocky Butte for several years and climbed the prominent points of the Gorge – Rooster Rock, Beacon Rock, Crown Point and Pillars of Hercules.

She bicycled to many of these climbs as well.

Also in 1957, she participated in the first all-in-one-day ascent of St. Peter’s Dome with Tom Gibbons and Dave Nelson—all in one day for Allison because she was Allison Logan Belcher rappelling off the Needle, to be the Maid of near Rooster Rock in the Columbia River Gorge. Fill from I-84 covers most of the Needle today, but the Honor at a wedding in Eugene the next top is still visible on the south side of the freeway. day.

Dave Nelson watches from the top, circa 1957.

In the late 1950s Allison got wind of the climbing possibilities in Horsethief Butte, which had been discovered

by Jack Grauer. Over the course of a few years Allison pioneered many of the routes at Horsethief and became a pied piper of sorts for scores of young people who followed her lead to explore rock climbing. These efforts of hers have led to a decades-long relationship between the Mazamas and Horsethief and influenced hundreds of students in the Mazama schools.

26 —Mazama Bulletin

An accident on Mount Hood in 1962 led Allison’s life in an unexpected direction. She was hiking up from Cloud Cap on a September day when alarmed climbers appeared and asked her to come help with a rescue. A group of Reed College students had gotten in way over their Allison and Bob Belcher. heads. Primarily novices, they had successfully ascended the Sunshine Route and questionably decided to descend via Cooper Spur. One student lost control while glissading and slid 1,000 feet and into a crevasse.

Allison ventured onto the Eliot Glaicer by herself to aid the fallen climber and helped get the other students to safety. Word got back to the college and Reed decided for safety’s sake it should establish a program of formal mountaineering instruction. On the basis of her performance in the rescue and her reputation, Allison was chosen to head the program. She designed and implemented a curriculum and the program was up and running a mere six weeks after the accident. Allison ran the program for two years, then handed it off to George Cummings, long-time Mazama and current climb leader.

Allison continued to move up through the ranks of the Mazamas and landed a spot on the Climbing Committee in the early 1960s. In 1963 she was nominated to be the first woman head of the committee.

There was fierce opposition within the committee. One of her champions was Erwin Reiger, and with his support Allison made Mazama history.

In his chronicle of the first 75 years of the Mazamas, We Climb High, John D. Scott characterized her performance as follows: “To the great astonishment of many members who could not imagine a woman holding such a position, she turned out to be one of the best”.

By then Allison had met and married Bob Belcher, one of her Mazama Basic School students, and they decided to take a trip around the world before starting a family. On her brief but illustrious climbing career Allison participated in first ascents of routes on Mt. Washington in Oregon and a route in the Tetons on a Mazama outing. She and Bob had their first child in 1966. Although Allison continued to climb thereafter, she had very strong feelings about doing something as inherently dangerous as climbing when she had a family. A dicey situation on the Sunshine route of Mount Hood in 1973 with Charlie Jensen, she says, sent the clear message that her climbing days should be over. Her last Mazama climb was that of Plummer Peak in 1993, led by Vera Dafoe.

What happened outside her climbing experiences subsequently dwarfed Allison’s accomplishments as a climber. She went on to raise four children and had three successful careers – social worker, teacher and, after family life, nurse. During the tumultuous political time of the late 1960s Allison was, she reports, unwilling to be “just a housewife” and rallied around many local causes. The achievement of which she is most proud, she says, is that of starting, with her husband Bob and their friend Jim Howell, an organization called Riverfront for People, which helped keep the I-5 freeway off the west bank of the Willamette and ultimately led to the establishment of Tom McCall Waterfront Park. Allison went on to become the chair of the Multnomah County Democratic Party and a State Delegate to the Democratic National Convention in 1976 (and on the Rules Committee there). Throughout the years, Allison has worked as an advocate for foster children, Oregonians with disabilties, seniors, hurricane victims and others. Such were the magnitude of Allison’s postclimbing achievements that she was awarded a plaque in Portland State University’s Walk of Heroines. Allison Logan Belcher, a truly remarkable Mazama.

Mazama Nordic Ski School The Mazama Nordic Ski School offers three types of cross-country skiing classes: Classic, Telemark, and Backcountry. Ski Mountaineering is taught as a separate program. The Nordic Ski School program consists of an evening student orientation meeting on Thursday, December 12, 2013, a series of four lessons on consecutive Saturdays or Sundays – your choice – in January, 2014. This year’s applications for the Ski School must be received by Monday, December 2, 2013 at 5 p.m.

Important Dates • Dec. 2, 2013 (Monday): Ski School Applications Deadline. Applications must be received by 5 p.m.

• Dec. 12, 2013 (Thursday): Mandatory Student Orientation Night. Meet your instructors and class mates and get oriented at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC/ • Jan. 4, 11, 18, and 25, 2014 (Saturdays) or Jan. 5, 12, 19, and 26, 2014 (Sundays) – Nordic classes Student Registration Register online using the Nordic Ski School Application Form.

Please don’t delay in registering for Nordic classes. Although we attempt to find class space for all applicants to the Nordic Ski School, classes are filled on a first come, first served basis, and there may be more applicants than we can accommodate. If classes are filled, we will start a waiting list.

Online registration beings Nov. 1.

Applications are also available at the MMC or by downloading the form. The deadline for applications is December 2, 2013 at 5:00 p.m. Applications and payment must be received at the MMC by this date.

Class Tuition: Classic Cross-Country or Backcountry Skiing: Mazamas members: $75; nonmembers: $95 Nordic Downhill (Telemark): Mazamas members: $105; non-members: $125.

(Note: lift tickets, needed for the Nordic Downhill classes, are not included in this price.)

Refund Policy. Fees are non-refundable if you cancel after December 31, 2013 unless: (1) you are on the waiting list, (2) you are replaced by someone on the waiting list, or (3) you experience an “exceptional circumstance”. Submit a letter or email the Mazamas to request a refund.

Class Descriptions

CLASSIC CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING

Beginning: Never had a formal Nordic lesson (or at least I can’t remember which pole is the left one), but cross-country skiing sure looks like fun For those who have never skied or ski infrequently. Classes cover: gear selection; moving on skis (walking flats; climbing & descending gentle hills); pole usage; diagonal stride; controlled falling & recovery; braking & turning wedge; step turn.

Intermediate: OK, I’ve got good gear and I can glide, turn and stop. Is that all there is? No? Then let’s keep…….skiing!

For those who are comfortable with diagonal stride, braking & turning wedge, and step turns on moderate terrain. Classes cover: review of basics; blending diagonal stride with double poling and double pole with a kick; improving rhythm and flow; increasing speed and control. Ski all Green trails and easy Blue trails.

Advanced: Nordic rules, and I want to go faster and farther, deeper and steeper!

For those who have a well-developed diagonal stride, and can transition to double pole and double pole with a kick. Should be able to control speed and maneuver with linked wedge and step turns on moderate to steeper terrain. Classes cover: review of intermediate skills; increase efficiency to promote control and endurance at higher speeds.

Beginning telemark turns depending on individual skill level. Ski all Blue trails and most Black trails.

NORDIC DOWNHILL: Yearn for the burn in the turn

For those possessing at least intermediate turning skills, who wish to ski steeper terrain with telemark gear, typically on lift-assisted groomed slopes. Classes cover: gear selection; riding lifts; telemark and parallel turns.

NORDIC BACKCOUNTRY: Hey, this is fun, but I want to go off-trail and not be limited to fixed routes!

For those who want to develop the skills and confidence to get off the beaten path. This class will emphasize winter backcountry navigation and negotiating difficult terrain with safety and comfort.

Intermediate cross-country skills and intermediate navigation (map/compass) are required. Note: This is Nordic Backcountry and will not cover Ski Mountaineering skills.

Note: Actual class content for all classes may vary at the discretion of the instructors because of ski conditions or the particular needs of the students in the class.

Questions about Mazama Nordic Ski School? Check our webpage, E-mail Carol Lane at Carol.Lane@ portlandoregon.gov, or call the Mazamas at 503-227-2345.

October 2013—27

Go Hiking!

HK B2 Oct 02 (Wed) Cedar Mountain, Aldrich Butte loop. Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373. Nice quick, stiff little hike on the WA side of the Gorge.

Interesting terrain heading up Cedar with possible side trip to Cedar falls.

9.8 miles 2900 ft. Dr. 86 MMC 8 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 02 (Wed) Whetstone Mountain W. Larry Solomon muensterhump@hotmail.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. Experience the beautiful Bull of theWoods wilderness with a hike that includes more than 20 switchbacksto the summit, where we lunch.

Views from Rainier to the Sisters toMary’s Peak in the coast range. 11 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 169 TH MMC 7 a.m.

HK A1.5 Oct 05 (Sat) Washington Park/ NW 23rd Loop. Nancy Goering ngoering@att.net. Parking fee $4 or take MAX. Explore our city’s awesome trail system with this loop through parks and city streets. We’ll start and end at the Washington Park MAX station, at the top of the elevator, across from the Forestry Center.

From there we’ll hike through Hoyt Arboretum, up to Pittock Mansion and down the other side to McCleay Park. Then it’s back into the city where we’ll walk down trendy NW 23rd St and possibly stop for lunch at one of the many restaurants. On the way back we’ll wind through lower Washington Park, up through the Rose Garden, past the Japanese Garden and back to our starting point via the Wildwood Trail. 6.7 miles 1,000 ft.

Dr. 0 Washington Park MAX station 9:30 a.m.

HK B2 Oct 05 (Sat) Hamilton Mtn. Brett Nair 503-847-9550. Washington Discover Pass required. There and back again—Easy trip up to several great view points. 8 miles 2,200 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 05 (Sat) Herman Creek (Cedar Swamp Camp) (W). Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness–Limit 12. Forested hike to a unique area. Lots of small creeks and waterfalls along the way. 14.6 miles 2,640 ft. Dr. 78 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A2 Oct 06 (Sun) Wind Mountain.

Tom Dodson dodsontw@msn.com.

This is a short hike which ascends the west side of Wind Mountain. It is a sacred Indian site and has clearings at the top where young Indians go on retreats. The views of the gorge are excellent in all directions. 2.7 miles 1,100 ft. Dr. 94 MMC 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Oct 06 (Sun) Franklin Ridge Loop (W). Mitch Auerbach 503-2814809. Wilderness–Limit 12. Easy car shuttle required. A nice Gorge classictwo creek drainages in one hike. We’ll

28 —Mazama Bulletin

start from Oneonta Gorge, finishing at Multnomah Falls, where we can stop for coffee, fudge or other snacks, before completing the car shuttle back to the Oneonta trailhead. 10.1 miles 2,800 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 06 (Sun) Rock of Ages Loop (W). Sheri Alice Smith 503-8079373. Wilderness–Limit 12. Scramble up the notoriously steep Rock of Ages trail to the Devils Backbone. Up and more up. Bell Creek Tr. and down Oneonta. Nice entertaining hike. 10.6 miles 3500 ft. Dr. 60 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Oct 09 (Wed) Lower Salmonberry River. Rex Breunsbach 971832-2556. Exploritory—From Matt Reeder’s Off the Beaten Trail—We will follow an abandoned rail line along the Salmonberry River canyon, across trestles and past aged railroad machinery. 10.2 miles 280 ft. Dr. 150 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Oct 12 (Sat) Forest Park— Big Stump. Rex Breunsbach 971-8322556. Time to get back into Forest Park. Old growth trees and logging history. 6.19 miles 620 ft. Dr. 25 Gateway Park&Ride 8 a.m.

HK B2.5 Oct 12 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Regis Krug 503-7046442. The trail begins with a moderate climb, going through second-growth Douglas firs then under power lines.

There are nice views of Hamilton Mountain and Bonneville Dam from a bench about 4/10 of a mile in. We’ll take the “more difficult” route up.

Washington Discover Pass required.

7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Oct 12 (Sat) Burnt Lake & East Zigzag Mtn. W. Kurt Hiland kurthikes@msn.com. Wilderness– Limit 12. Potential views of newly snowcapped volcanoes in this modest woodsy mountain climb. 9.5 miles 2400 ft. Dr. 95 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Oct 13 (Sun) Bolt Camp Shelter. Kent Meyer 360-574-0784.

This hike will be along the Lewis River in the Gifford Pinchot NF on a good trail. Come along to see the repaired shelter, old growth trees, and find out why it is called Bolt Camp. 6 miles 200 ft. Dr. 160 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Oct 13 (Sun) Cape Lookout.

Richard Getgen teambears@frontier. com. Hike out to the point, and then down to the south beach. 10 miles 1500 ft. Dr. 144 Target at 185th/Hwy 26 8 a.m.

HK B2 Oct 13 (Sun) Wahkeena-Multnomah Creeks Loop. Susan Koch 971678-3446. Great waterfall hike in the Gorge 5.4 miles 1,700 ft. Dr. 48 Gate-

way 8 a.m.

Contact Trail Trips Committee chair is Jim Selby at selbyjb@comcast.net with any questions. To lead a hike in Oct., log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www. mazamas2.org.

Note: “Wilderness—Limit 12” indicates the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.

Check the website for new hikes and updates: Our HK B2 Oct leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after 14 (Mon) the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location Angels Rest. may change due to conditions, so please visit tinyurl.

Dick Meisscom/mazamahikeschedule. ner 503-6929065. Let’s AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) do this hike offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate when it is less list at http://tinyurl.com/mazamaaym. crowded, on a Monday in the fall. This 94 TH 8 a.m. Call Leader for details trail is steady up, but not too steep.

And we get to a great viewpoint One HK C1.5 Oct 19 (Sat) Table Mountain Loop. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059. If never knows what the weather will do this time of the year, so come prepared. you’ve been looking for a slow-paced trip to Table, you just found it. When 4.6 miles 1,584 ft. Dr. 42 MMC 9 a.m.

I say 1.5 mph on this, I mean it. Up HK B2 Oct 16 (Wed) Ape Canyon- Heartbreak, down West Ridge. Back Plains of Abraham. Paul Gerald 971in town around 5. 10 miles 3,650 ft.

227-2059. Fall Classic Great vine ma- Dr. 84 Gateway 8 a.m. ples and big trees on this one. Let’s just hope for good weather! If it’s super HK A2 Oct 20 (Sun) Clackamas River awful we’ll improvise. Please contact Trail W. Paul Gerald 971-227-2059.

Fall Colors and Waterfalls Wilderleader for details. 10.6 miles 1,300 ft. ness–Limit 12. We’ll set up an easy Dr. 142 TH MMC 7:30 a.m. car shuttle to do this trail one-way HK B2 Oct 18 (Fri) Fifteen Mile Creek at a leisurely pace. You might want Loop W. Rex Breunsbach 971-832poles for one stream crossing. Please 2556. Wilderness–Limit 12. Explor- contact leader ahead of time to assure atory—From Matt Reeder’s OFF THE your spot. 7.8 miles 450 ft. Dr. 90 TH BEATEN TRAIL—East of Mt. Hood, Gateway 8:30 a.m. this hike loops through a transition area between the wet western forest HK B2 Oct 20 (Sun) Dog Mountain and the dry desert. Fifteen Mile Creek Loop. Mitch Auerbach 503-281-4809. was designated a Wild and Scenic river You’ve done Dog Mtn in the spring and early summer with all of its flowby congress in 2009. 10.3 miles 1,900 ers. Now, experience the Dog in the ft. Dr. 140 TH MMC 8 a.m. fall. Same great views are guaranteed HK A1.5 Oct 19 (Sat) Historic Van- (in good weather). 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. couver & River Trail. Jim Selby (828) Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

508-5094. We will leave from the parking lot for the park at Ever- HK C2 Oct 20 (Sun) Lookout Mountain W. Rick Craycraft 503-679-2113 green and Ft. Vancouver Way at 10:30 or leftfield5@juno.com. Wilderness– a.m. A tour of Officers Row (think Gen. Grant & Gen. Marshall’s homes) Limit 12. Maybe some fall colors and and the Ft. Barracks will lead us to Indian Summer temps on the east side of Mt. Hood. Just in case, prepare The Academy, constructed by nuns in 1856. We’ll go through the downtown for the advent of Winter. If clear, Mt. Hood is right in our lap 10.4 miles to Esther Short Park and the Farmer’s Market where you can buy lunch or 2,975 ft. Dr. 136 Gateway 7:30 a.m. bring your own. Then its on to the HK B2 Oct 23 (Wed) Kings Mountrail along the Columbia for two miles tain. Sherry Bourdin 503-246-8095. A to the statue honoring women who short but challenging hike up one of worked in the shipyards. We return the highest peaks in the Coast Range. to the Fort via a coffee shop and the If lucky with a clear day, can see the Maya Lin designed land bridge. Great Pacific Ocean and Cascade peaks. If hike rain or shine and fall colors cloudy, look forward to a good midshould be at peak. 5 miles 150 ft. Dr. week workout. 5.5 miles miles 2,800 22 Gateway 10 a.m. ft ft. Dr. 66 Target/185th 8a.m.

HK B2 Oct 19 (Sat) Tom-Dick MounHK A1.5 Oct 26 (Sat) Round Lake. tain (W). David Nelson 503-657Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Should be 4058. Wilderness–Limit 12. We will a colorful hike past several waterfalls hike up to Mirror Lake and then up and forest meadows. You would not to the ridge to the top for views of Mt. guess you are surrounded by the city Hood, Mt. St. Helens and other peaks. of Camas as Round Lake resembles Have lunch, return to Mirror Lake and wilderness in spots. Good hike rain or hike around the lake before heading shine but hiking sticks recommended. back to the trailhead. Remember to Just a really nice hike! 5 miles 400 ft. bring food, snacks, water, including Dr. 32 Gateway 9 a.m. the 10 essentials. 7.2 miles 1715 ft. Dr.

continued on next page

Trail Trips, continued from page 28 HK B2 Oct 26 (Sat) Eagle Creek (Cross Over Falls) W. David Nelson 503-657-4058. Wilderness–Limit 12.

Popular hike in the George with easy access from Portland. We will wander up the Eagle Creek trail passing half a dozen waterfalls, crossing the High Bridge and continuing until we reach Cross Over Falls (just past Tunnel Falls). Have lunch and then head back for the cars. Remember to bring food, snacks, water, including the 10 essentials. First come, first served up to the Wilderness limit. 12.6 miles 1,200 ft.

Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 26 (Sat) Silver Star Mountain via Starway. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. My first time up this trail.—Starway has the most acessable trailhead and the least easy trail to summit of Silver Star. 12 miles 3,500 ft. Dr. 130 Gateway Park&Ride 8 a.m.

Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain.

Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain.

Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rugged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet.

Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions.

Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed.

• • • • • •

1 = 1 mph: slow, easy pace 1.5 = 1.5 mph: moderately easy pace 2 = 2 mph: moderate pace 2.5 = 2.5 mph: moderately fast pace 3 = 3 mph: fast conditioning pace; 3.5 = 3.5 mph: very fast, highly aerobic conditioning pace.

HK=Hike; SR=Street Ramble; R=Run; BP=Backpack; TT=Trail Tending; RP=Restoration Project; W=Wilderness area–limited to a maximum of 12 persons; SS=Snowshoes; NS=Cross Country Ski. Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under.

Both members and nonmembers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th and Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; SalmonCreek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/ Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. and 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–

HK B2 Oct 27 (Sun) Pup Creek Falls (Fish Creek) (W). Ursula Edlund ursedl123@gmail.com. Wilderness–Limit 12. A beautiful fallhike along the Clackamas River.

Ferns, forest and up to the Pup Creek Falls. Lunch at a hidden spot for us in the woods. 8.5 miles 1,300 ft. Dr. 80 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Oct 27 (Sun) Observation Peak (from Gov’t Mineral Springs).

Sheri Alice Smith 503-807-9373.

Beautiful fall color heading up to the peak, then backcountry loop through giant old growth forest.

Volcano views and Trapper Creek falls too. Fairly rugged trail. 14.3 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 116 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

P&R at Boones Ferry and Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pendleton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Washougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th and Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; SnoPass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encouraged to carpool and share costs.

The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or poncho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food and clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter).

Participants should be in a physical condition appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants.

In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hikers must pay their medical and/or evacuation expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. See hike write-ups for particulars of pace, trail conditions, mileage and elevation gain. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty. Hikes are classified into general categories; contact leader for further details.

Rambles Corner Rambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-Pearl Various leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles start promptly at 6 p.m.

Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp.

These rambles average 4-8 miles, 500-1,500 ft. and meet at REIPearl NW 14th and Johnson 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMC­—Oct 2 & 9 only.

Meg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 ft Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd and Stark) 6 p.m.

Mazama Climb Awards Ever year at the Annual Celebration Mazamas recognize climbing accomplishments and give climbing awards. Climbing Committee is receiving climbing applications for climbing awards. Qualifying climbs for all these awards must be official Mazama climbs.

CLIMBING AWARDS • Guardian Peaks: Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams.

• Seven Oregon Cascade Peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Washington, North Sister, Middle Sister and South Sister.

• 16 Major Northwest Peaks: Mt. Shasta, South Sister, Middle Sister and North Sister, Mt. Washington, 3-Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, Mt. Oympus, Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan.

LEADER AWARDS • Terry Becker Award: Successful leads on the 16 Major Northwest Peaks • 5, 10 and 15 Point Leadership Awards: Leading and assists on sixteen major Northwest peaks.

Application deadline for the 16 Peak and Terry Becker Award is Sept. 20. For all other awards, the deadline is Oct. 15.

Mail your applications along with copies of summit certificates to MMC. Climbing Award applications can be downloaded at http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C363/.

Classified Advertising THESE LISTINGS ARE PAID ADVERTISEMENTS. THE MAZAMAS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR CONTENT.

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Executive Council Minutes Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary In Attendance: Executive In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Doug Couch, President; Bronson Potter, Vice President; Meg Goldberg, Secretary; Judith Baker, Dyanne Foster, Bill McLoughlin (by phone), Joan Zuber. Lee Davis, Executive Director. Absent: Terry Donahe, Treasurer; Sojo Hendrix.

Doug Couch called the meeting to order at 6:40 p.m.

The minutes of the August 13, 2013 meeting were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 31 applications for membership and 5 reinstatements. Total membership as of Aug. 31, 2013 is 3355. This is an increase of 147 members since last year this time.

Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed For audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available for membership on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • AYM • Climbing: Committee requests a response from council to develop basic leadership qualifications across all activities. This issue will be discussed at the retreat and Doug Couch will follow up with Climbing Committee.

• Expedition • Old Timer’s • Outings: Request approval of day fee as of Oct. 1, 2013: $10 for member and $20 for nonmember • Outreach Committee • Risk Management • Strategic Planning • Requests approval of Kati Mayfield’s proposal to

partner with an outside agency to support the committee with a new chairperson.

• Trail Trips The reports were unanimously approved and received on the consent agenda.

Bronson Potter moved to accept the reports on the consent agenda. Motion seconded.

Motion approved. Action: passed.

Old Business John Rettig: Governing Documents requesting delisting of Publications Style Guide, Font Usage and Name Usage from the policy and procedures.

Meg Goldberg moves to delist the three categories from the policy and procedure. Motion seconded. Motion approved.

Action: passed.

New Business AT&T Proposal. AT&T is looking to site some antennas in the right of way along Stark. The pole abuts property owned by Mazamas Foundation. AT&T is inquiring to see if the Mazamas would consider leasing out a small portion of the property on Stark St. just west of 43rd Avenue to place some ground equipment. AT&T would like to lease approximately 26’ x 12’ and would pay rent of $300 per month. Lee will continue to explore this request and come back to council with more information and a proposal.

Fiscal Contributions to the Mazamas—Bronson Potter.

There is an expectation of most boards to contribute at a significant level to the respective organization. This has not been part of the Mazamas.

As Mazamas embarks on new fundraising campaigns it is important that council members are contributing to the organization. Bronson asks that council think about this and for nominating committee to incorporate this into the search requirements for council

Sep. 10, 2013

nominations.

2013-2014 Budget Discussion and Approval: Joan Zuber moves to approve the 2013-2014 budget as submitted. Motion seconded. Motion approved.

Action: passed.

Volunteer Recognition— Dyanne Foster. The volunteer picnic will be held on Oct. 7, 2013 at 5 p.m. just before the Annual Meeting. Dyanne will arrange the picnic.

Kati Mayfield: Behavioral complaints and creating a culture of respect. Kati Mayfield, Volunteer Manager is working on creating a code of ethics/ conduct to help guide members.

She is creating a task force comprised of members and 1-3 EC members to work on the code of ethics/conduct and to work on crafting a disciplinary policy.

Council Expectations around conduct of members.

Matt Carter requested council to reconsider the findings on the harassment complaint he submitted in April. Discussion followed regarding appropriate responses to single cases of disrespectful behavior which don’t meet the harassment criteria. This will be followed up as part of the code of ethics/ conduct for future instances.

Doug indicated that he will prepare a letter addressing the incident that was the subject of Matt’s complaint.

Meeting adjourned at 8:40 p.m. Executive Council went into Executive Session Next Executive Council Meeting: Monday, Oct. 7, 2013 at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC

Obituary Kenneth F. Rystrom, Jr. Kenneth F. Rystrom, Jr, 81, former editor of the Vancouver Columbian editorial page and retired journalism professor, died in Eugene on August 4, from complications of a stroke six months earlier. Until shortly before his death he had lived in Florence, Oregon to be near his children and grandchildren.

In 1954 Kenneth graduated with a journalism degree and high honors from the University of Nebraska. He received his Master’s in Political Science from the University of California the following year and then served in Korea in the U.S. Army.

He began his newspaper career in Vancouver, WA, in 1956, at the Columbian and became an editorial writer for the Des Moines Register and Tribune from 1960-64. He then moved back to Vancouver to lead the Columbian’s editorial page.

Rystrom joined the Mazamas in 1966, climbed all but one of the Sixteen Northwest Peaks, and was an avid backpacker who was never without his 1959 vintage wooden ice axe.

Ken left the newspaper field for academe in 1977 and received his Ph.D. in political science from the University of Southern California in 1983. He taught editorial writing and other journalism courses at the University of Redlands (CA) and Virginia Tech in Blacksburg, VA until his retirement in 1997.

While living in Florence Ken helped found the Heceta Head Coastal Conference. That organization has now gone on to have nine conferences. The conference focuses on the ocean and marine life. His love of the coast inspired him to be active in the Ocean Shores Conservation Coalition. In addition, Ken wrote The BeachCombers Guide to the Oregon Coast in 1992.

October 2013—31

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