Issue 6
Fat Dogs..... get the skinny on why it’s bad
Grooming Tips & Tricks
BREED SPOTLIGHT Uif!MBCSBEPS
Nutritional Supplements Monday, January 21, 13
Teach your dog to love the crate
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Monday, January 21, 13
L
iving in South Florida it’s sometimes easy to forget that most of the western hemisphere is in the midst of cold,--- winter weather. Which means it’s so much more difficult to get out and about with your dog. So it’s extra important to make sure your pooch gets enough exercise to stay fit and healthy, and not get overweight laying on the couch all day! Exercise is the best cure for boredom and the destructive behavior that can emerge as a result. Check out our article on fat dogs and check your buddy’s waistline. I was thrilled to read the news out of Los Angeles about the ban on the retail sale of puppies in pet stores. Puppy mills are the biggest supplier of pups and they are an abomination the should have been banned years ago. No civilized nation should allow such cruelty to animals to continue. Unfortunately, many people are unaware of the situation. They see a cute little puppy in a pet shop and have no clue where it came from or how it’s parents are abused. I am sorry if some store owners will have some difficulties due to the loss of income, but can only applaud Los Angeles for taking this bold step. Well done!
Dog Park Magazine is dedicated to bringing you interesting dog related articles, news, stories, holistic healthcare, great places to take your dog, and informative and fun videos and photos. Our mission is to promote the bond between dogs and humans through education and entertainment.
We would love to hear from you with feedback, comments, stories and photos. Write to share@dogparkmag.com Monday, January 21, 13
Contents Portly Pooches How to tell if your dog is fat and what to do about it by Dina Colton
Grooming How to keep your pooch smelling sweet by Andy Santini
Stop Press!
Crate Training Tips Teach your dog to love the crate by Patrice Malone
Nutritional Supplements Are they really necessary? by Dina Colton
It’s a Dog’s Life “That’s a Terrier For You!” by Bailey Russell
Monday, January 21, 13
Great news about puppy mills. Click to read
Contents Breed Spotlight The ever popular, Labrador Retriever by Patrice Malone
Raw Food for Dogs What’s behind the campaign to ban it? by Dr Karen Becker
Featured Dog Artist Pat Saunders-White by Dave Bernard
Park of the Month Piedmont Park, Atlanta, Ga. by Dina Colton
More recipes for home-made treats Make some for your best friend by Jane Romsey
Monday, January 21, 13
Meet Our Crew and their Best Friends
Commander-in-Chief, Dina Colton
Rover Reporter, Andy Santini
Canine Cook, Jane Romsey
Photo Pooch, Maz Scales
General Dog’s Body, Patrice Malone
Treat & Toy Tester, Lulu
Monday, January 21, 13
Fun Facts About Pets Tidbits of Trivia You Might Not Have Known Domesticated
pets
are
complex
creatures.
Have
wondered why they do some of the things they do?
you
ever
Why is it
your dog can always outrun you? Here are some interesting facts about dogs. Dogs only sweat from the bottoms of their feet, the only way they can discharge heat is by panting. Dogs have about 100 different facial expressions, most of them made with the ears. Dogs have about 10 vocal sounds. Dogs do not have an appendix. There are more than 350 different breeds of dogs worldwide. Dalmatians are born spotless: at first pure white, their spots develop as they age. Contrary to popular belief, dogs aren’t color blind; they can see shades of blue, yellow, green and gray. The color red registers on a grayscale in a dog’s vision. Most domestic dogs are capable of reaching speeds up to about nineteen miles per hour when running at full speed. Using their swiveling ears like radar dishes, experiments have shown that dogs can locate the source of a sound in 6/100ths of a second. Domesticated for more than 10,000 years, the dog was one of the first animals domesticated by humans. Monday, January 21, 13
Fat Dogs..... a growing problem Monday, January 21, 13
Banfield Pet Hospital recently released their State of Pet Health 2012 Report, and the news isn’t good. In fact, it’s extremely troubling. Chronic diseases in cats and dogs have risen dramatically over the last five years.
Monday, January 21, 13
The report is a compilation of medical data from about 2 million dogs and over 400,000 cats that visited a Banfield hospital in 2011. Some of the disturbing findings: • Overweight and obesity increased in dogs by 37 percent, and in cats by a stunning 90 percent • Arthritis increased 38 percent in dogs and 67 percent in cats • Almost half of arthritic dogs and more than a third of arthritic cats are also overweight • Nearly half of diabetic dogs and cats are overweight • Forty percent of dogs with hypertension and 60 percent with hypothyroidism are overweight Banfield also conducted a survey of 2,000 dog and cat owners to see what steps they were taking to keep their pets healthy. Survey answers revealed that less than 40 percent of dog owners and only a quarter of cat owners planned to seek advice from a veterinarian to manage their pet’s health condition.
Monday, January 21, 13
Your Fat Pet is (or will soon be) a Sick Pet Clearly, overweight and obesity in pets today is both its own disease and the root cause of many other diseases that develop as the result of too much weight. I wish more pet owners understood the consequences of letting their dog or cat get fat. I find it hard to believe most pet parents would continue to overfeed, feed the wrong foods, and under-exercise their companion animals if they realized they were destroying their pet’s health. In addition to arthritis, diabetes, hypertension and hypothyroidism as mentioned above, obesity also causes respiratory problems, kidney disease, and a significant reduction in both quantity and quality of life. Dr. Ernie Ward of the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention (APOP) considers a major contributing factor to be commercial pet food and treats, "Pet obesity is plainly a people problem, not a pet problem. The most important decision pet owners make each day regarding their pet's health is what they choose to feed it." If only dogs and cats could talk. If only they could look up from their bowls overflowing with pet junk food and say, “Please don’t do this to me. Please help me eat a balanced, species-appropriate diet – the kind of food I’d eat if I had a choice. Please don’t tempt me with too much food, or too many treats. Please? I depend on you.” So how can you tell if your dog is overweight? The ideal weight depends on the dog’s breed and even within a single breed, there is variation. Place your hands on each side of your dog’s rib cage. You should be able to feel each individual rib easily. If you can see the ribs or they are protruding, he may be underweight. If you can’t feel his ribs at all, he’s probably overweight. Next, look at your dog from the side. Is his abdomen tucked up slightly? This is more prominent in some breeds than others, but he should have a waist line. Underweight dogs will have an extremely prominent tuck. Overweight dogs will have no waist, and their abdomens may drag.
Monday, January 21, 13
A Simple Formula for Getting the Weight Off Your Dog Getting your dog down to a healthy weight isn’t rocket science. It involves three uncomplicated steps: Consult your veterinarian. This should be your first step. Your vet can best inform you of the ideal weight for your dog’s breed and height and develop a strategy for getting him back on track. He can also make you aware of any potential health concerns or things to watch out for as you start the new routine. Always consult your vet before changing your dog’s exercise schedule or starting any weight loss program. Feed a balanced, species-appropriate diet. Skip all the commercial weight control and “low fat” diets. Regardless of her weight, your dog still needs the right nutrition for her species, which means food that is high in animal protein and moisture, with low or no grain content. Good quality canned food is always better than any type of dried food or kibble. Practice portion control -- usually a morning and evening meal, carefully measured. A high protein, low carb diet with the right amount of calories for weight loss, controlled through the portions you feed, is what will take the weight off your dog. And don't forget to factor in any calories from treats. Regularly exercise your pet. An overweight body gets back in shape by taking in fewer calories and expending more energy. Daily exercise, including at least 20 minutes of consistent aerobic activity, will help your pet burn fat and increase muscle tone. Many dogs develop weight problems for the same reason they develop behavior problems: they are not receiving enough physical challenges. For your dog’s safety, it is important to incrementally increase the exercise routine. Start with short sessions, and gradually add more time and greater intensity. Overweight dogs are also at higher risk for overheating and breathing problems, so it’s important to keep a keen eye out. Your vet can tell you what your dog can safely handle.
Monday, January 21, 13
Cut back on snacks. Dog treats can add a significant amount of calories to your dog’s diet, as can human foods. If you’d like to give your dog a special reward, find healthier alternatives. Dogs should be given no more than 10 percent of their daily calories as treats. Treats are a huge source of “hidden” calories, and dogs are often grossly overfed because treat calories are not accounted for. If the calories per treat are not printed on the treat package, call the company and ask for this information. The average premium pig ear has 230 calories and when given to a 40-pound dog is the same calorie punch as an average adult eating two double cheeseburgers as a treat, in addition to their normal meals. The best and most healthful treat choices are fresh fruits or vegetables such as carrots, cucumbers, green beans or apples. Don’t blame sterilization. This is a myth. Dogs do not get fat simply by being spayed or neutered. Just like humans, dogs gain weight if they eat too much and exercise too little or if they are genetically programmed to be overweight. The weight gain that people may witness after sterilization is most likely caused by continuing to feed a high energy diet to a dog that is reducing its need for energy as it reaches adult size. Get the whole family involved. Just like working with a problem behavior, everyone in the household needs to do their part. If you have children, be sure to explain to them the importance of helping your dog with his new weight loss control. Your dog will live a longer, happier life because of it! Monitoring Weight Loss. Weigh your dog every one to two weeks to monitor his weight-loss progress. Overweight or obese dogs should lose one to two percent of their body weight each week. If your dog is not losing weight, his daily calories may need to be restricted further. Eating right and being physically active aren’t just a “diet” for your dog -- they are keys to a healthy lifestyle and will reduce your dog’s risk of chronic disease and increase his chance of a longer life.
Monday, January 21, 13
How To Tell If A Dog Is Overweight
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Monday, January 21, 13
What's Behind the Campaign to Condemn Raw Diets for Pets? By Dr. Karen Becker January 13th, 2013
A few months ago I wrote about the flawed logic behind the American Ve te r i n a r y M e d i c a l As s o c i at i o n’s (AVMA’s) decision to publicly denounce raw food diets for pets. Many raw feeders and veterinarians with backgrounds in species-appropriate nutrition were angered by the AVMA’s position and questioned the motivation behind it. Following on the heels of the AVMA’s condemnation of raw pet food came a similar position statement by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) that it “does not advocate or endorse feeding pets any raw or dehydrated nonsterilized foods, including treats that are of animal origin.”
Monday, January 21, 13
AAHA Borrows AVMA’s Flawed Logic This is an excerpt from the AAHA’s position statement: “Homemade raw food diets are unsafe because retail meats for human consumption can be contaminated with pathogens.” Yes, human grade raw meats can contain pathogens. That’s why most people cook their meat before eating it. It’s also why people wash their hands, kitchen utensils and food prep surfaces after handling raw meat. What the AAHA neglects to mention is the GI tracts of dogs and cats evolved to handle heavy bacterial loads from food. Your pet's body is well equipped to deal with heavy doses of familiar and strange bacteria because nature built him to catch, kill and immediately consume his prey. Your dog or cat's stomach is highly acidic, with a pH range of 1-2.5. Nothing much can survive that acidic environment – it exists to keep your pet safe from potentially contaminated raw meat and other consumables. And in addition to the acid, dogs and cats also naturally produce a tremendous amount of bile. Bile is both antiparasitic and anti-pathogenic. So if something potentially harmful isn't entirely neutralized by stomach acid, the bile is a secondary defense. And your pet's powerful pancreatic enzymes also help break down and digest food. The excerpt from the AAHA statement goes on to say: “Studies that have been done on both commercially available and homemade raw protein diets have found a high percentage (30–50%) of them contaminated with pathogenic organisms, and up to 30% of the dogs fed such diets may shed pathogenic organisms in their stool.” There are a number of pathogenic organisms in the stool of all dogs and all animals, not just those fed raw diets. So the risks associated with handling or otherwise coming in contact with dog poop are the same no matter what food the dog eats.
Monday, January 21, 13
Why Doesn’t the AAHA Name the Pathogens It’s So Concerned About? The excerpt continues: “Many of the pathogens found in raw protein diets can be transmitted to the human population by contact with the food itself, pet or environmental surfaces.” It’s frustrating that it appears neither the AVMA nor AAHA have done their research into the types of raw food currently on the market. There is a whole class of raw foods currently available that are sterile at the time of purchase. Just as much of the human meat supply has been treated with a sterilization technique called high pressure pasteurization, many raw commercially available pet foods have also opted for this sterilization technique to reduce potential pathogens. All of these raw foods meet AAHA and AVMA criteria for “safe” pet food, according to their own “standards.” At the risk of repeating myself … yes, handling raw meat carries the potential for contact with the usual pathogens found in raw meat, which is why appropriate sanitary measures are important whether you’re handling your pet’s raw food or your own. These risks are no different than the risks of handling burgers prior to grilling them, or making fresh chicken soup for your family. Raw meat can carry bacteria that can affect humans. If the AAHA is aware of some type of rare, deadly bacteria lurking in raw food for pets, it would be helpful if they named it, don’t you think? Otherwise, the nonspecific dire warnings contained in their position statement appear to be an attempt to scare people away from raw meat containing normal amounts of normal bacteria. As for people picking up pathogens through contact with their pets, I assume the AAHA means contact with pet feces, not the pet itself, and I don’t know a single pet owner who picks up his dog’s or cat’s poop – or any other elimination product -- with his bare hands. I also don’t know a single pet owner who, if she inadvertently touches poop with her bare hands, doesn’t immediately wash thoroughly with soap and water. The vast majority of responsible pet owners also do an excellent job cleaning up pet accidents. As for the risk of contamination of environmental surfaces … again, any feces deposited anywhere, indoors or out, has the potential to cause illness if handled improperly or ingested. The poop of raw fed pets is no more or less hazardous than the poop of pets fed processed commercial diets.
Monday, January 21, 13
Raw Pet Diets Have a MUCH Better Safety Record than Processed Pet Food I didn’t have time to look up the 50 (yes, FIFTY) references the AAHA cited for their position statement. (And for the record, I’m still scratching my head as to why an under 400-word position statement requires 50 references.) However, as I mentioned in my earlier article, one of the references the AVMA cited for its position – one the AAHA also used in its 50-item list -- actually argued against the dangers of raw food diets. The study, published in 2006 and titled Human Health Implications of SalmonellaContaminated Natural Pet Treats and Raw Pet Food1 states (emphasis mine): “The increasing popularity of raw food diets for companion animals is another potential pet-associated source of Salmonella organisms; however, no confirmed cases of human salmonellosis have been associated with these diets.” That was 2006, and seven years later, despite the continued growth of raw food diets for dogs and cats, there has been no outbreak of salmonella in humans as a result of raw pet diets. Compare that safety record with the number of processed pet food recalls in recent years, and it’s hard to understand why the AAHA and AVMA felt compelled to take a position against the method of feeding with the better safety record. That’s why the oddly timed, publicly declared anti-raw feeding positions of both the AVMA and AAHA leave lots of room for speculation as to what prompted their actions, and whether their relationships with major pet food companies are a factor.
If you’re already successfully feeding your pet a raw diet, I hope you will disregard the new antiraw positions of the AAHA and AVMA and continue to offer your dog or cat real, fresh, living foods.
Monday, January 21, 13
How to switch to Raw Feeding, B.A.R.F. (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food)
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Monday, January 21, 13
Good Food, Good Dog - Raw Food Diet
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The Rise of Paleo Puppy
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Monday, January 21, 13
Pebbles the chiweenie puppy tackling her first raw bone at 8 weeks old. She stole it from her big sister!
Monday, January 21, 13
Crate Training
A crate for a dog is the domestic version of a den. Long before dogs became domesticated, they used their den when they needed privacy and seclusion. Your pet dog has evolved to a state of near complete domestication, but some of those wild traits still remain. The desire for a lair is one of them. Monday, January 21, 13
Having a crate for your dog has many advantages. A crate is first and foremost, a great training tool for housebreaking. In fact, you'll find it harder to train your dog if you're not making use of a crate, and the chances of accidents around the house are greater. Crates are also ideal when you travel with your pet. If you're looking for a hotel that accepts pet dogs, you'll have better luck with a crate trained dog. In unfamiliar surroundings, a crate can help a dog feel safe and comfortable because it is a familiar environment. Many landlords make crate training a criteria for allowing pets on the premises. The ideal crate for your dog should be made of plastic or meshed wire, and should be light and portable. Once your dog has been sufficiently house trained, you can detach the doors of the crate, and use it as a sleeping or resting area for your dog.
Monday, January 21, 13
Crates can be a very positive, important tool in house training and overall training areas. Crating is NOT cruel as dogs are den animals and should have their own “room”.. a space they can feel safe in and retreat to when stressed or tired. Crates should be used for no longer than 4 hour intervals. A dog should not be crated while an owner works all day. Think about it – you use the bathroom at work – why would you expect your dog to hold it all day?? Also, small dogs = small bladders. A crate should be large enough for a dog to lie down in and turn around. A crate that is too large will give a dog the opportunity to mess in one area and lie in another. Always make the crate a “great” place to be for your dog. Make the crate a positive place by feeding all meals in the crate and also having special treats that are only given in the crate. Feeding in the crate makes crating a part of your dog’s daily routine. Feeding in the crate forces us humans to be consistent and crate even if we have a 3 day weekend or a week off of work. Feeding all meals in the crate makes the crate a positive place where wonderful things happen every day of a dog’s life. (REMEMBER: If you only crate your dog when you are gone, your dog will quickly learn to associate his crate with being alone. Ask yourself, what does crating mean to my dog?). A Kong toy filled with cream cheese, peanut butter and/or treats is an excellent distraction from your departure and will keep the dog occupied. Freezing the Kong will make the fun last longer! Treat balls are also great for crate time. Warm blankets from the dryer or placing the crate near a heat vent will also encourage crate use for young puppies that love warmth. Make the crate a “magical” place by hiding treats in the crate when your puppy isn’t looking. He will then get in the habit of entering his crate to see what wonderful surprises might be in this “great place”!
Monday, January 21, 13
Teach the dog the command “Kennel” before he enters his crate. If the dog is resistant to a crate initially, continue to give ALL meals and treats in the crate. Then place the dog in the crate but do not leave the room. Allow the dog to remain in the crate for just minutes, gradually increasing the time and eventually leaving the room and then the house for short intervals. The goal is to condition the animal to see the crate as positive and short term and to assure him that you are returning. Never let a dog out of the crate until he is quiet. Otherwise he will quickly learn he can get out of his crate by exhibiting negative behavior. When you let the dog out of the crate, do not make a big deal out of his exit. This just confirms to him that “whew! glad you are out of that awful place”. Also, ignore a dog that is having problems with crate training 20-30 minutes before placing him in the crate. Play soothing music or a sound machine for the dog while he is crated. Put dim lighting on to encourage quiet time.
Monday, January 21, 13
House training your puppy with a crate Using a crate is an ideal way to begin house breaking your new pup. Dogs, by instinct don't urinate or defecate where they sleep or rest, so your pup will be highly averse to the idea of soiling the crate. Use this to your advantage. Crate him for a while, so he can retain the contents of his bladder and bowel. Then let him loose, and take him outside to eliminate. Give him some time to eliminate and, if he's unable to, take him back to the crate. If he does eliminate, give him a treat or praise him, and allow him to run around the house unfettered, as a reward. After an hour or so of play, your dog is ready to be returned to the crate again. Use this potty training method every hour, and note down your dog's elimination pattern in a note book. This will give you an idea of the time of the day when he's most likely to eliminate. A crate is also an ideal way to protect your home and furnishings from your pup's destructive chewing tendencies. If you have been away from the house for many hours, crating your dog will ensure that you don't return to a home that's soiled, and littered with chewed debris.
Monday, January 21, 13
Many dog owners find the concept of a crate to be uncomfortably similar to a cage. This is far from the truth. A crate is a necessity for a dog. It's the doggie version of a "room," for humans. It's the one place in the house that is completely his own. Never abuse the crate or use to to punish your dog. It's a wonderful training tool, provided you don't make a habit of confining him to it for long periods of time.
How long should you keep a puppy in the crate? Ideally, your puppy should spend around 2 hours at a time in the crate, and then again, overnight. Move the crate to your bedroom to reassure him, and comfort him. Give him at last an hour between crate breaks to romp around the house and play. He needs to understand that the crate isn't a permanent house for him.
Monday, January 21, 13
How To Crate Train a Puppy
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Monday, January 21, 13
Grooming Not  Just  For  Looks
Monday, January 21, 13
Reasons to Groom Regularly 1) TO STIMULATE THE SKIN AND ALLOW NATURAL OILS TO CIRCULATE Some people are obsessed with washing their dogs but that doesn’t benefit dogs quite as much as it benefits humans, who prefer companions that don’t stink. In contrast, dogs don’t care if they’re malodorous; if they did, they wouldn’t roll around in disgusting stuff. And if they cared about cleaning themselves off afterward, they would be cats. Washing, if done too often, it can deplete dogs of the natural oils they need. In contrast, brushing keeps those essential oils circulating, which is good for both the coat and the skin. 2) TO PEER AT YOUR DOG’S PELT When you brush your dog regularly, you automatically establish a baseline for what’s normal and start noticing things that deviate — bumps, discolorations, and tumors. And while you’re at it, this is also a good time to check eyes, ears, and teeth (though actual tooth brushing at the same time might be a tad too much for your pup to tolerate). 3) TO PREVENT IRRITATIONS AND INFECTIONS If you don’t pay attention, fungi and insects may take up residence in tangled hair. As a result mats (as matted hair is known) and knots give rise to skin irritations and, eventually, infections. 4) TO SPEND QUALITY TIME WITH YOUR DOG It’s true, not all dogs love getting their coats brushed. And if you adopt a dog that isn’t used to it, you’ll have to go slowly and not try to do too much untangling, tugging, or anything else painful at once. Rewards and praise should be administered liberally, too. But once you get into a routine — which also means less pain because it’s just maintenance — your dog will appreciate the fact that she’s got your undivided attention for a nice stretch.
Monday, January 21, 13
The regular attention you pay to your dog during grooming sessions is key to his health as well as to your relationship with each other. It can also be beneficial to your own health, though it is unlikely to enhance your appearance! Quite the opposite when brushing or bathing your dog is involved. That’s not to suggest that using a professional groomer shouldn’t be part of your routine; certain breeds require care that’s beyond the scope of most people’s skill and energy, and some aspects of home dog grooming of any breed may elude you (nail clipping is my personal downfall). But whether between professional sessions or instead of them, these five procedures are key to any routine.
Monday, January 21, 13
1. BRUSHING This is probably the most important thing you can do for your dog for a variety of reasons, the primary being removing tangles and mats that fungi, insects — or in extreme cases, small children — can nest in. The frequency of required brushing depends primarily on the type of coat your dog has. Longhaired dogs can benefit from daily brushing, medium-haired dogs should be brushed weekly, while short-haired dogs can go a month between sessions without tangles becoming a problem. But that doesn’t mean they should. Brushing your dog also allows you to become aware of any unusual lumps or bumps early in their development so that your vet can check them out as soon as possible. It has also been shown to have a calming effect, to the extent of lowering blood pressure, on both the brusher and the brushee. Plus there’s the quality time you’re spending with your pup. Going slow and using the right tool is important so your dog doesn’t associate the procedure with pain. Pet-oriented retailers offer full lines of dog grooming products geared towards different types of coats and hair lengths.
Monday, January 21, 13
2. NAIL TRIMMING Not all dogs need their nails trimmed. Some file their own nails by walking or running on hard surfaces. Pups that don’t pound the pavement however, and small breeds that don’t weigh enough to successfully s e l f - fi l e , n e e d p e d i c u r e s . Overlong nails can get caught in carpeting or clothing or become ingrown and infected. And just because dog nails aren’t as sharp as cat nails, don’t think being scratched by a dog isn’t painful. Nail trimming isn’t easy initially, especially for dogs that have black, nontransparent nails. Go too far and you’ll literally cut your dog to the quick — the part of the nail that contains nerve endings and blood vessels. Many different types of tools, from clippers to electric files exist; different people and different dogs may feel more comfortable with one type than with another. Whatever you use, it’s always a good idea to have your vet or a vet tech teach you how to do it correctly.
Monday, January 21, 13
3. BATHING Bathing can be the most stressful part of dog grooming, for both you and your dog. If your dog is small you can easily use a sink. Try to make it fun by using water toys and treats. I use the hose outside for my big dog and she doesn’t mind it too much. I have an old table I stand her on to make it easier on my back. The jury is out on the frequency with which this procedure needs to be performed. Some recommend only every two months and others recommend weekly or even twice weekly bathing for allergy prevention. Let your dog’s body odor and your willingness to deal with the procedure be your guide. Whatever the frequency, you should only use a shampoo that is specifically designed for dogs; human shampoos and soaps dry and damage their skin.
Monday, January 21, 13
4. EAR PEERING Floppy eared dogs and dogs that don’t shed are particularly prone to ear infections, the former because germs like to breed in the dark, moist areas created by those big flaps, the latter because hair growing in the ear canals often mixes with wax and forms unwanted earplugs. Constant pawing at the ears may be a sign that your dog has a health problem (or that he wants you to turn down the stereo). By the time your dog’s ears smell bad and ooze, they’re already infected and require professional care. No matter what type of dog you have, peer into his ears at least once a week. Many preventative powders and cleaning solutions are available for breeds that are predisposed to ear problems; ask your vet for recommendations. Never, ever stick Q-tips in your dog’s ears. Removing hair from a dog’s ears is not dissimilar to removing it from a human’s ears; plucking and trimming implements are required. As with nail trimming, this is a procedure best attempted only after you have been instructed by a professional, or left to a groomer.
Monday, January 21, 13
5. CRUD CLEANING Most dogs get a little crust in the corner of their eyes, just like we do when we get up in the morning. They can’t remove it with their paws like we can, however. Use a moist cotton ball and gently wipe it away. This is also the treatment for the tear stains to which many small, lightcolored dogs are prone. Reddened, swollen, or itchy eyes, on the other hand, might be caused by allergies, conjunctivitis, or parasites; if the whites of your dog’s eyes aren’t white, be sure to get them checked. Wrinkly jowly pooches such as Chow Chows, Bulldogs, Basset hounds, and Shar Pei’s need to have their skin folds wiped out regularly to prevent dermatitis or fungal infections. Use baby wipes or cotton swabs with hydrogen peroxide, then dust with unscented talcum powder.
Monday, January 21, 13
How to Give a Bath to a Dog That Hates Water
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How To Trim Your Dog's Nails
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Monday, January 21, 13
Hitting puppy mills where it hurts
Monday, January 21, 13
Los Angeles bans retail sale of pets The second largest city in the country has said no to puppy mill dogs sending a clear message to the puppy mill industry. In October 2012, the Los Angeles City Council approved an ordinance that bans the retail sale of dogs, cats and rabbits, unless they come from shelters or rescue groups, eectively blocking the flow of these animals from the inhumane commercial breeding farms that raise them for sale in pet stores.
With this victory in Los Angeles, what started as a grassroots movement by Best Friends Animal Sanctuary is picking up steam. Under the leadership of Elizabeth Oreck, the sanctuary’s national manager of puppy mill initiatives, Best Friends has tackled retail pet sales head-on by urging municipalities around the country to ban them. Los Angeles joins 27 other cities in North America with similar bans, including 10 others in California. More and more communities are coming to the realization that, with city shelters bulging at the seams with homeless animals, it makes good sense to stop the importation of animals that contributes to their shelters’ overcrowded conditions. The Los Angeles ordinance passed after more than two and a half years of Best Friends’ collaborative efforts with a few key stakeholders in the animal welfare community. They worked with L.A. City Council member Paul Koretz, the offices of the mayor and city attorney, and L.A. Animal Services general manager Brenda Burnette to craft the ordinance. Elizabeth says, “We didn’t want to impact responsible hobby breeders, but to focus instead on the core of the milled pet problem. With so many dogs, cats and rabbits dying in shelters, that’s what we needed to target.” It is a monumental victory - the largest of this nature to date but it’s only the beginning. According to Elizabeth, “It comes down to this: Puppy mills are in business to supply pet stores. As long as people are buying those puppies, puppy mills are going to continue to breed them. By reducing the market, we can reduce the number of dogs suffering in the mills.”
With a city as large as Los Angeles leading the way, other major cities around the country are poised to follow. Puppy mills take note: The writing is on the wall.
Monday, January 21, 13
Nutritional Supplements Are they really necessary?
Just as many pet parents are paying more attention these days to the quality of food they feed their companion animals, they are also realizing the potential benefits of nutritional and issue-targeted dietary supplements.
Monday, January 21, 13
According to consumer market research 21 percent of dogs and 15 percent of cats in the U.S. are given dietary supplements by their owners. And according to Bill Bookout, chair of the National Animal Supplement Council’s board of directors: “There aren’t any magic bullets out there, but I think supplements are becoming more and more recognized and substantiated as a valuable component of a comprehensive care program where we either try to maintain general health and wellness, or manage health as a result of the aging process or some health challenge.” The primary categories of pet supplements include those for joint health, skin and coat health, GI tract health, and liver and kidney health.
Joint Health Supplements Supplements for joint health typically contain glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). GAGs promote the health of cartilage, which is the strong, elastic tissue lining the bone surfaces in joints. Cartilage cells naturally produce glycosaminoglycans, which when combined with water provide cushioning to help protect your pet’s skeletal structure during movement and exercise. The most common GAG is chondroitin sulfate, a substance that is naturally present in healthy connective tissue and cartilage. Another is glucosamine, and a third GAG naturally found in normal cartilage is hyaluronic acid which helps maintain its flexibility, elasticity, and strength. Perhaps the best natural source of glycosaminoglycans is eggshell membrane – the clear, slimy fluid lining the inside of egg shells that usually gets thrown in the garbage right along with the shell. Eggshell membrane contains not only glucosamine, chondroitin, and hyaluronic acid, but also collagen, elastin, two important amino acids that give elastin its rubbery quality, and transforming growth factor-b. Another excellent ingredient to look for in a joint support supplement is cetyl myristoleate, a potent joint lubricant.
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Skin and Coat Supplements Dietary supplements for your pet’s skin and coat health typically contain essential fatty acids, often a blend of omega-3s, -6s and -9s. The problem with many of these blended supplements is that most dogs and cats today, especially those eating commercially available processed pet food, get an overabundance of omega-6s and not enough omega-3s. A combination of inexpensive grain and corn-based ingredients, vegetable oils (corn, soy, safflower, canola), and fats from chicken and meat create pet food packed with omega-6 fats.
In addition, the omega-3 fats used in most commercial pet foods come from plant or vegetable sources, and the manufacturing process typically destroys what value these ingredients have. So the best essential fatty acid supplement for the vast majority of today’s dogs and cats is an omega-3 supplement made from marine oils – krill oil or fish oil, including salmon, s a r d i n e , s q u i d a n d a n c h o v y. Vegetable-derived oils, including flax and olive oil, do not contain EPA and DHA, but rather the less bioavailable, inactive precursor form, ALA.
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Supplements for a Healthy Gastrointestinal Tract Two extremely beneficial supplements to promote healthy digestion in pets are probiotics and digestive enzymes. Probiotics are friendly strains of bacteria that maintain healthy levels of good bacteria in your pet’s GI tract, and also defend against opportunistic, pathogenic bacteria. The digestive tract is the largest immune organ in your pet’s body. Your dog or cat has even more intestinal bacteria than you do, despite her much smaller size. The GI tracts of companion animals are designed to handle a tremendous bacterial load – bacteria that would quite likely develop into a life-threatening infection if found elsewhere in your dog’s or cat’s body. A healthy population of friendly bacteria keeps your pet’s immune system in good working order. If the balance of bad-to-good intestinal bugs gets out of whack, your pet will eventually develop GI symptoms and an increased susceptibility to illness. Studies demonstrate animals raised without friendly bacteria in the gut, or with a poor balance of good-to-bad gut bacteria, are at dramatically increased risk of developing disease. When researching supplements for your pet, you’ll want to avoid human probiotics, and probiotics added to commercial pet food. Probiotic formulas used by humans were developed specifically to fortify the bacterial species found in the human GI tract. Pets have specific strains of bacteria unique to them, so they need a unique probiotic. The bacteria in a probiotic must be live and able to reproduce in order for it to be beneficial. Tests on dog foods claiming to contain probiotic micro-organisms showed the manufacturing process kills too many of the live bacteria, rendering the probiotic effect useless by the time the food is packaged and shipped. Look for a pet probiotic that can survive the acidic environment of your dog’s or cat’s stomach, contains enough live organisms to colonize the intestines, and the correct strains of bacteria beneficial for pets (not people). It should also remain stable under normal storage conditions and be easy to give to your pet. High quality digestive enzymes for pets should be sourced from animals (not plants or fungi), and should ideally contain some or all of these ingredients: betaine HCI, ox bile extract, bromelain, papain, pancreatin, protease, amylase and lipase. Monday, January 21, 13
Supplements for Liver and Kidney Support There are a number of wonderful supplements to support your pet’s detox organs. Liver support products include milk thistle and SAM-e. There are also pharmaceutical grade proprietary formulas for intensive liver support. It’s usually cats, not dogs, that get kidney disease, and the best way to support your kitty’s kidney and urinary tract health throughout her life is to feed a moisture-rich, species-appropriate diet to minimize stress on her vital organs. Dry processed kibble is tremendously detrimental to the overall health of cats – and especially their kidneys.
Supplements for a Healthy Heart A less well-known but equally important supplement for pets is CoQ10, or more specifically, ubiquinol, the reduced form of CoQ10. (As pets get older their bodies have less ability to convert CoQ10 to its active form, ubiquinol.) CoQ10 is a coenzyme that nearly every one of your pet’s body functions depends on -every cell ... every organ... every tissue. CoQ10 is a compound produced naturally in the liver. It does its work deep down in the mitochondria of cells. Cells use CoQ10 to support their energy and growth. And cells with the fastest turnover -- heart cells, mouth tissue cells, intestinal mucosal cells and immune system cells -- demand high levels of CoQ10. Coenzyme Q10 also contributes to healthy circulation, promotes optimal immune function, supports the healthy presence of oxygen in tissues, and supports cardiovascular health. Pets that can most benefit from ubiquinol supplementation include those who need additional cardiovascular support, all pets aged 7 and older, and athletic animals that compete and perform. If you’re thinking about dietary supplements for your dog you should talk with your integrative or holistic vet about what products would be most beneficial for your pet’s individual needs. Monday, January 21, 13
Five Ways to Enhance Your Canine Companion's Best Health Your happy-go-lucky four-legged friend provides you with constant unconditional love, devotion, friendship -- and even health benefits. (Dogs are shown to bring joy, relieve stress, encourage exercise, raise morale, boost selfconfidence and self-esteem.) So naturally, you want to keep your dog as healthy as possible. Here are some tips to help: 1. Feed your dog an appropriate raw diet for their body. This means high protein with a few veggies -- not a corn or animal by-product based diet of kibble (fake food). Pet owners and vets have witnessed vast health improvements doing this. Benefits include proper weight, cleaner teeth, more active and less achy, reduced flea problems, and a happier disposition. 2. Supplement your dog's diet with omega-3 oils. If you feed your dog kibble, supplement with small sardines (the ones canned in water, one sardine per day for toy breeds, 2-3 sardines for medium dogs and more for large dogs) to supply omega-3 oils. Alternatively, an organic free-range chicken egg on alternate days adds nutrients and variety. Reduce his kibble accordingly, or you may find the caloric intake too great. 3. Keep your dog fit. It can add years to your dog's life, and give your dog a better quality of life. (Just like it will for you.) Provide at least one opportunity each day for your dog to get exercise. 4. Provide your dog with chew treats. They provide pleasure, mental and physical exercise, and make your dog easier to live with. Plus, they help keep your dog's gums and teeth healthy. Avoid rawhide, as it provides no nutrition and can cause stomach or intestinal blockages that can be life-threatening. Also avoid gluten-based treats (due to potential allergens). Raw bones are best, providing natural glucosamine, chondroitin, collagen and calcium. Watch your dog while chewing -- heavy chewers can destroy a large knucklebone in a short time, causing a heavy digestive load. 5. Encourage mental health and agility with food-stued toys. They provide an interesting challenge and stimulate your dog's brain.
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I thought it was only women who had to stand in line to use the bathroom! There must be a shortage of trees around here..............
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Nana the World's Smartest Dog Performs Amazing Dog Tricks
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Funny Dog Watching Table Tennis
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It’s a Dog’s Life The World according to Bailey
That’s a Terrier For You! The other day, my owner took me and my brother to the park as she does every weekend. We always go to human parks because our experience with dog parks has never been very good. Monday, January 21, 13
I know I went to dog parks as a puppy and I can remember being interested in playing with other dogs. Eventually though, for some reason that changed and I turned into a loner. My brother, Sammy, on the other hand, has never been well-behaved at the dog park. As most of you know, dog parks have rules. You can’t have aggressive dogs. You can’t have annoying dogs. Well, my brother and I fit both profiles. Although we have never officially been kicked out of the dog parks, we ought to be banned. My owner gave up taking us to those parks last year. She became exasperated and embarrassed by our behavior. Of course, I see my actions as completely justified but I know it shames her. When I arrive at a dog park, I make it clear to the other dogs that I am not there to play with them, entertain them, or in any way, shape, or form engage with them. I run up to the gate and immediately bark my way through the furry masses. My goal is to complete “my circles”. There is nothing I love more than spinning in circles over and over again to flick my spit up in the air and try to catch it. God help the dog that attempts to interfere with my creative process. I become aggressive.
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My brother Sammy is different. He is more of a lover. When he is at the gate, he cannot hide his excitement because he wants to meet and play with everyone. He is the submissive type so he lets every dog know that he won’t fight. He is there to have fun. That would probably be alright with my owner but like I said, he is more of a lover. No dog whether male or female is safe from Sammy’s amorous overtures. I cannot tell you how many times my owner has had to take him away from another dog who was already on his owner’s lap attempting to get to a place of safety. My brother Sammy becomes annoying.
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Now we go to human parks and hike up and down hills and over small creeks. For the most part, I think we are well-behaved except when we pull on our leashes coming down the mountain, dragging our hapless owner with us. I have to admit, she is much slower and overly cautious. Sometimes, I wish she would keep up with us. Every now and then, we come across things that distract us. Those two things are typically humans and other dogs. Sammy will not be able to control himself. He must pull, jump, whimper, and just plain freak out if we see either human or canine. I am so much different. If confronted with a human, I don’t normally care that they are there, unless they are on a bike. Then I am compelled to run after them and try to bite their ankles. I think I am easier to handle than Sammy.
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Dogs are a different story for me. I don’t want another dog interfering with my day or getting into my space. Unfortunately, they come over anyway because Sammy is being excessively friendly. Its these times when I become a little aggressive. It’s just what I do. It happened the other day and the dog’s human said, “That’s a terrier for you”. I found that statement prejudicial and unnecessary. If you’ve been paying attention up to this point, you probably can see that my brother and I are very different despite the fact that both of us are “terriers”. My point is, no two terriers are alike.
Write to me...... bailey@dogparkmag.com
Monday, January 21, 13
Breed Spotlight e Labrador Retriever
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Breed Group: Sporting Height: 21.5 to 24.5 inch. at shoulder Weight: 55 to 80 pounds Life Span: 10 to 13 years The Labrador Retriever has consistently ranked as the most popular purebred dog in the United States for more than 10 years, according to the American Kennel Club. The AKC registers more than a hundred thousand new Labrador Retrievers each year, but when you take into account all the Labs never registered at all, or registered with another organization such as the United Kennel Club, the popularity of this stable, family-friendly dog is truly staggering.
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Named the “Labrador” in 1887 by the Earl of Malmesbury— an English hunter and breeder—the Lab actually originated in 18th-century Newfoundland, Canada. At the time two breeds emerged from the St. John’s Water Dog: the Greater Newfoundland and the Lesser Newfoundland. The Greater Newfoundland dogs worked in teams hauling fish, but the Lesser Newfoundland had a rugged friendliness that fishermen valued. Fishermen marveled that these smaller Newfoundlands kept their can-do attitude even after long days retrieving nets from the sea, playing happily with children when returning to shore. Soon, these dogs came to Poole, England—the Newfoundland fishing-trade hub—where hunters and sportsmen honed them into skilled hunters and retrievers. In 1903 the English Kennel Club recognized the Labrador Retriever as an official breed. The American Kennel Club certified the breed in 1917.
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Labrador Retrievers come in black, chocolate and yellow. They have a broad, clean-cut head with hanging ears and alert, friendly and intelligent eyes. They have thick noses and wide muzzles and strong necks. Labradors have a short, dense and water-resistant outer coat and a downy undercoat that keeps them warm. Their straight tail, also covered by the coat, is otter-like—beginning thick and tapering at the end and defecting water—and their webbed feet are great for swimming. Though not very tall, Labs are solid and well built. They are usually slim but can get a little heavy without enough exercise.
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A great family dog, the Labrador is loyal, loving, aectionate and patient. One of the best reasons why the Labrador retriever has never been unseated as the number one well-loved dog in the United States and Europe is the fact that it can be a child’s best friend. The Labrador retriever has gained a widely favorable reputation of being one of the most gentle and friendly dog breeds that can work well with people, young and old. Studies of Labrador retriever behavior has shown that its zest for life is like that of a child. Children and Labs share a sunny disposition which is infectious and both have an incomparable enthusiasm for life. One never knows when a Lab starts to mature for he will always be one happy, bouncing bundle of joy. Since your Lab loves nothing more in the world than to eat and play, your children will be spending countless hours of fun and play with your canine friend. Labs are very gentle with people, particularly kids. They are able to gently hold objects such as an egg in their mouths without breaking them. They are gifted with an instinct to detect the subconscious thoughts of the other members of the pack. They will find ways to nudge you out of your blues for there will never be a dull day with a Lab around the house.
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A Labrador Retriever has the kind of versatility that other dogs only dream of. He can be a companion, show dog, hunting dog, canine athlete, guide dog, service dog, snier dog, search and rescue dog, and therapy dog. He enjoys jogging (health permitting), boating, swimming, hiking and more. If it’s active, outdoors and with his people, the Lab is ready and willing to participate in any activity. All of those characteristics make the Labrador well-suited to a variety of active families. He’s perfect for homes with rowdy older children, but may be a little rambunctious around toddlers, especially as a puppy or young dog. Singles and couples who love the outdoors also match up well with this breed, and his size and even temperament make the Labrador a great companion for active seniors who love to walk and would appreciate a dog who looks intimidating, even if he is more of a lover than a fighter. Labradors tend to get bored when left alone indoors for too long. This can lead to listlessness and destructiveness from all the unspent energy and lack of attention. This breed is happiest and healthiest with plenty of exercise and outdoor play. Monday, January 21, 13
The life expectancy for Labrador Retrievers is generally 10-12 years. They have relatively few health problems, but are prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, ear infections and eye disorders. Labs that are fed too much and exercised too little may develop obesity problems. It’s very important that they get daily exercise along with moderate rations of food.
If possible, Labradors need an average-sized yard. They can manage in an apartment, as long as they get regular walks or visits to the park. Yet, even in a fenced-in yard Labs can get a little stir-crazy. They have a natural curiosity, a desire for companionship and an uncanny single-mindedness that could drive them to break through a fence or leap over it. For this reason, dog experts recommend clearly marked tags for Labs, and in some cases a traceable microchip implant.
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Labrador puppies are so cute and adorable that they are used extensively in advertising. In the U.K. a well known brand of toilet paper is forever associated with a lab puppy. In the U.S. one is featured on the wrapper of a popular pack of toilet tissue.
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Average litters are between 6 and 9 pups, but they can have as many as 15!
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White Velvet Labradors - Melt Away!
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Labradors in the snow and swimming
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Atlanta, Georgia Monday, January 21, 13
P
iedmont Park is a haven for dogs and humans alike! While a City of Atlanta ordinance requires all dogs in public areas to be leashed, Piedmont Dog Park is one of the few locations in metro Atlanta where dogs may run free. This special o-leash area, open since 2002, is one of the most popular features of Piedmont Park.
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Piedmont Dog Park features: • • • •
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a nearly 3-acre dog run separate enclosures for large and small dogs new trails and landscaping benches and restrooms for loyal owners
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Piedmont Park, Atlanta’s “Common Ground” since 1904, is located approximately 2 miles northeast of downtown Atlanta. The park runs along 10th Street (a block west of 10th & Monroe Avenue to a block east of 10th & Piedmont Avenue) and Piedmont Avenue (12th & Piedmont to just before 15th & Piedmont) in midtown Atlanta. The park is open daily from 6:00 am until 11:00 pm.
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Video about Piedmont Dog Park
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Monday, January 21, 13
Featured Dog Artist Pat Saunders-White “The Electrifying Artist” by Dave Bernard, Johnstown CO.
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The paintings of Pat Saunders-White radiate with electrifying color. The pure joy of a child playing with crayons resonates throughout every portrait. Pat’s interest in art and appreciation for good design began as a very young girl, when she and her sisters would cut out paper dolls and create imaginative and delightful wardrobes. “I loved color,” Pat says. “I felt like I was in heaven when surrounded by my coloring books and crayons, creating at every opportunity. This was my greatest joy.”
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Pat’s artistry didn’t immediately lead to a fulltime career, however. She married, raised a family, and worked 9-to-5. “My art took different forms, whether it was gardening, decorating, quilting, sewing, cooking. Only once in a while would I do anything truly artistic for me. It always had to serve more purpose than just pleasure. And I was brought up to work first, and then you play.” At age 48, Pat went to a junior college, then to a four-year school. “I was placed immediately into an advanced painting program. I excelled and I loved it.” By this time, Pat had begun dabbling in commercial art. She painted whimsical frogs, customizing them with the numbers of high school football players and selling them as note cards. Painting electrifyingly colorful cats, dogs, and other animals came later.
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Pat turned toward full-time art in 1999. How she began painting animals, she says, “is a funny story. I was casually painting with three of my girlfriends one afternoon and I was intrigued by a picture of a funny looking cow. I decided to take on the challenge of painting that cow. “The feeling was amazing. I sketched the cow with pencil and outlined it in black. I felt like I was coming home, like I was a child again with my coloring books. I felt uninhibited and my creativity flowed freely. The experience was one that artists rarely have. For me, that painting was the first that felt natural and not over examined.
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“The next day, thinking this was just a coincidence, I tried to replicate the feeling. It turned out not to be a one-time experience and I was off and running, painting animals: cats, dogs, alpacas, cows, pigs.” At a gallery in Fort Collins, Colorado, where Pat was displaying her artwork, a lady asked if she did commission work. “She became my first client and I created three paintings for her.” From that point, through word of mouth and from an article in a Costco publication, Pat became known as an animal artist. Pat’s big break, she says, was the short Costco article that talked about her animal artistry. Responses from the article kept Pat busy with commissions for three years straight, and helped establish her as a worldwide animal portrait artist of note. When Pat paints animal portraits on commission, she uses whichever medium is asked for: pastel, acrylic, or watercolor. If she can’t meet the animal in person, Pat works from pictures (as many as she can get) of the animals she paints. “The first thing I capture is the life within the eyes, the soul of the animal. I know the eyes will make a connection with the animal’s owner. “My goal is to convey the exuberance, the joy, the loving way people’s pets react to their owners.” And she succeeds. Pat is gifted with a strong, innate sense for the use of color. Typically, an animal’s face fills the canvas. Bold contrasting colors, loose, uninhibited brush strokes and repeated layers of colors visually communicate Pat’s artistic passion. A simple, single idea is enough to get Pat started. “Then,” she says, “my heart, mind, and passion take over. Each time I start a new artistic project, I take on the challenge as if my best painting hasn’t yet happened.”
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If you would like to see more of Pat’s work please visit her website. www.patsaunderswhite.com
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lamb cupcakes
3 cups ground lamb 1 egg 1 cup oatmeal 1/2 cup ground almonds 1 tablespoons cottage cheese
Preheat oven to 425F. Combine lamb, egg, oatmeal, almond meal, and cottage cheese in a bowl and mix well. Pour into a cupcake pan with paper cups. Bake for about 35 minutes or until browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a cupcake comes out clean. These treats must be refrigerated to keep them from spoiling. TIP - you can substitute any meat that you want for the lamb.
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low fat treats
1 medium ripe banana 1 cup finely shredded + chopped carrots 1/4 cup applesauce, unsweetened 1/8 cup water (you may need to add an extra 1/8 cup water) 1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour 1 cup rolled oats Preheat oven to 350째 F Mash the ripe banana in a small bowl and mix in the prepared carrots. Pour in the applesauce and water. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and oats. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the carrot mixture. Stir until well mixed. Knead the dough before turning out onto a floured surface and continue to knead until a dough has formed. Roll out to 1/2 inch thickness. Cut out into 3 inch pieces using a cookie cutter if you like. Lightly spray a baking sheet with non-stick spray. Place treats on the baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes. Let them cool completely on a wire rack. Storing - These treats will be fresh in the refrigerator for 3 weeks. Keep them in the freezer for up to 6 months. Yield - Using a 3 inch cookie cutter, you'll get 24 biscuits. Monday, January 21, 13
tasty tuna cakes
Ingredients - Instructions on next page 1 1/2 cups rolled oats 1 cup cornmeal 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 tsp dried dill 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried thyme 2 tsps dried parsley 5 oz can tuna in oil (do not drain) 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup water 1 egg •
• •
•
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Tu n a i s h i g h i n protein and contains lots of vitamin D and omega-3 fatty acids.
Substitute the Tuna - Make varieties of these dog treats with canned salmon or chicken. If you use other meats that are larger than a 5 oz can of tuna, omit the 1/4 cup of water. You may need to add a bit more flour, too. Different Herbs - You can use other herbs, too. Try rosemary or tarragon for variety. Fresh or Dried - If you prefer to use fresh herbs, you can. Substitute fresh for dry on a 3 to 1 ratio. For example, 1 tablespoon of minced fresh thyme instead of 1 tsp of dried. Hand Packed - Be sure to hand pack this dough into your cookie scooper. It is very thick and needs to be packed together to create a solid treat.
tasty tuna cakes
Instructions - Ingredient list on previous page Preheat oven to 350째 F. In a large bowl, whisk together the oats, cornmeal, flour and herbs. Puree the tuna, oil, water and egg in a blender. Make a well in the center of the oat mixture and pour in the tuna mixture. Stir until combined. Lightly spray a baking sheet with non-stick cooking spray. Using a 1 inch cookie scooper, pack the dough into the scooper with your hands and release on the baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack. Storing - These will keep fresh in the refrigerator for about one week. Keep them fresh in the freezer for up to 4 months. Yield - Using a 1 inch cookie scooper, you will yield about 32.
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Meet Porter. The World's First Driving Dog!
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We couldn’t resist sharing this video from New Zealand. Now we’ve seen everything!
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Thank you for reading this issue of Dog Park Magazine. We hope you enjoyed it as much as we enjoyed putting it together for you. We would love to hear from you with feedback, comments, stories and photos.
Comments and tips - share@dogparkmag.com It’s a Dog’s Life - bailey@dogparkmag.com Dog Park of the Month - park@dogparkmag.com Reader Rescue Stories - rescue@dogparkmag.com
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