FASHION
IN EVERY ISSUE
42 Fall into Fashion
6
Publisher's Letter
8
Must-Haves
Vogue's top designer picks for fall
50 Runway Inspired
Borrowed from the catwalk: The three hues of the season
52 Vogue's Must-Haves The shades and shapes defining our fall outlook
62 Elements of Style
Unique designs with a creative edge
74 It's All About The Details
A closer look at Kathryn Brenne's V9333
10 Couture Corner 96 Fabric Focus RESOURCES 21 Fabric and Accessory Resources 84 Guide to Pattern and Fabric Requirements 88 Body Measurement Charts 90 Shop & Sew Marketplace
76 The Art of Style
How to dress office chic and still uniquely you
80 The Ruche Effect
Lisette falls for a classic stitch treatment
82 Color Forms
Your not-so-classic mens shirt from Koos van den Akker
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MASTER INSTRUCTION
Not Your Average White Shirt BY KATHRYN BRENNE love white shirts and own several of them, which I wear for different occasions. I came up with an idea to take a basic white shirt and dress it up with the use of ribbons. Read on for the how-to, as well a library of other ideas for you to choose from to take your classic white shirt up a notch.
PATTERN AND ALTERATIONS
add a seam and create a two piece cuff. I embellished the upper cuff and left the cuff facing plain. The pattern was cut on the fold line and a seam allow ance added. Buttons were replaced with snap closures. The ruffled collar pattern was altered slightly to accommodate the ruffle. See directions below.
These techniques can be applied to any basic shirt pattern. For this article, I used V8927 as a base as I was looking for a shirt pattern that included a sepa rate collar and stand as well as minimal design details. In order to get the look I wanted, I made a few pattern alterations. First, I created a 2¼" (5.7 cm) panel for the front. I cut the front pattern apart and added a seam allowance to both edges. This gave me a front panel to embellish, which sits in the middle of the shirt but does not extend over to the bust. The front band was narrowed from 1¾" (3.5 cm) wide to 11/s" (2.9 cm) wide to accommodate the 11/s" (2.9 cm) ribbon I used for the underside of the band. For the embellished cuffs, I chose to
Note: I used pre-pleated ribbon trims purchased from Mokuba ribbon. I also purchased a roll of¾" (19.1 mm) flat grosgrain ribbon to try pleating my own trim. Directions and quantities are given below. The new front panel pattern piece measures 28" (71/i cm) long in a size 12. For my shirt I used four lengths of box pleated trim, as there are two strips per each front panel. I also used one strip of diagonally pleated trim and one strip of lace on each front panel. I used trims to embellish the collar stand. Two lengths of box pleated trim and one length of ¼" (6-4 mm) ribbon were used for the Collar Stand. I creat-
NOTIONS
ed my own prairie points for the collar stand using ¾" (19.1 mm) flat grosgrain ribbon. I created my own ruffles out of scraps from the shirt. The front bands were backed with a length of 11/s" (2.9 cm) grosgrain ribbon. DMC pearl cotton size 8 was used for the hand stitched embellishment on the front band and cuffs. Twelve white plastic square snaps were used on the sample shirt for the front band and cuffs.
FRONT BANDS The front bands were finished with a 11/s" (2.9 cm) length of grosgrain ribbon on the wrong side of the band. Fold the bands along the fold lines. Position the grosgrain so the edge sits just back from the outer folded edge on the wrong side of the band. (1) Using an edge stitch ing foot (Bernina #10) and the needle adjusted two positions to the left, attach the grosgrain to each band, which have been opened out flat. Adjust the needle position three positions to the left and attach the grosgrain to the inside folded edge of the band.
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