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F E B R U A R Y/ M A R C H 2 0 1 1 p. 63
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features
fashion 20 DIGITAL PRINTS Fabric News: Ultra-realistic digitally printed fabrics go from the runway to your closet. 30 ONE SKIRT, FOUR LOOKS From day to evening. 60 NEW DESIGNER DRESSES Every wardrobe needs at least one sensational dress! 68 INTRODUCING PAMELLA ROLAND Classics with an innovative twist. 72 INTRODUCING VENA CAVA Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock, the dynamic design duo talk to Vogue Patterns. 76 THE SHAPE OF THINGS Dramatic details and bodyhugging silhouettes make for show-stopping designs.
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78 INTERMIX One pattern, five pieces, endless options!
14 SEW SOCIAL Connect with people who share a common love of sewing.
80 THE VOGUE MAN Two new designs, sure to become classics.
22 FREE PROJECT 1: MATERIAL PLEASURES Easy-to-make tops from just two rectangles of fabric.
82 ARTISTIC EXPRESSION Marcy and Katherine Tilton bring you everyday wear with unexpected details. 86 BELT IT OUT Give your wardrobe a facelift with attention-getting waist wraps.
26 FREE PROJECT 2: FIT TO BE TIED Jeff Keith’s pattern and instructions for a recycled bow tie. 28 FREE PROJECT 3: A BETTER SWEATER Transform a plain sweater into a blooming beauty. 32 CLAIRE SHAEFFER, BEHIND THE SEAMS® Perfectly tailored sleeves. 36 FLATTERING THE FULLER FIGURE Simple alterations from Katherine Brenne. VOGUE PATTERNS February/March 2011
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41 SHOW STOPPERS Teen sewing competition in New Jersey’s Fabricland. 42 DIY BELTS How to make a fabric belt.
in every issue 5
Editor’s Letter
6
Mailbox
8
What Are You Sewing?
46 READER’S TECHNIQUE Applying a patch pocket by machine (without topstitching).
10 Editor’s Choice
48 YOUNG FIT Twentysomethings learn the finer points of tissue fitting.
13 The Selfish Seamstress: Sewing Therapy
52 GRAND OPENINGS Tips and techniques for making in-seam buttonholes.
90 Guide to Patterns & Fabric Requirements
56 WHO’S WHO IN VOGUE Meet Carlos Correa, the designer behind the Vogue Patterns brand.
on the cover
12 Web Watch
93 Body Measurement Charts 94 Crossword 95 Fabric & Accessory Guide
Pamella Roland’s mock-wrap dress with fabric flower. V1232, Misses’ 6-22. Photographed by Brian Kraus. Hair & Makeup: Joseph Boggess.
96 Thread Tales VOGUE PATTERNS February/March 2011
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sewing REVOLUTION G E N E R A T I O N
N E X T
REBECCA TURNBOW
FLIRT GIRLS
NEW McCall’s patterns with a fresh perspective from a group of young designers and sewing MELISSA WATSON MEGAN NICOLAY enthusiasts who deliver exciting and innovative ideas that will breathe new life into your sewing projects! These fashions are not about age, but a state of mind. Check them out today in the McCall’s catalog, or at www.mccallpattern.com.
IN THE PINK
M6284 M6283
M6282
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P. 219
P. 315
Flower M6047 P. 1207
Top M6282
M5142 P. 413
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www.mccallpattern.com
FA S H I O N F L I P B O O K You asked for it, you got it! The BEST way to browse McCall’s catalog, updated with clean, crisp new formats to make your shopping easier. And now, you can view the new patterns of each line in an editorial flip-book…just like in a magazine. Watch for this feature on upcoming Butterick and Vogue Spring collections too. www.mccallpattern.com
MATERIAL MONDAYS Imagine owning a piece of fabric direct from our closet...for FREE! We have yards and yards (and yards!) of fabric leftover from outfits and accessories made for our catalog and magazine photo shoots. Every Monday we’ll post a new fabric we’re giving away. For details on how to participate go to www.clubbmv.com.
f a c e - t o - f a c e Here’s your opportunity to interact with us through social networking. We’re now on Facebook! JOIN US and get news on the latest pattern releases, special sales and offers, what your fellow McCall’s friends are sewing, what’s happening in our offices, and events taking place in the sewing and fashion community. Plus, you can share photos of what you’re sewing with us!
VIDEO CHAT Having trouble figuring out how that pattern goes together? Stuck on a step? If you’re having technical difficulties with a pattern, contact us online. If we can’t help you out through the written word…and your computer has video chat capabilities…we’ll SHOW you how to get through it via video chat.
editor’s letter I’ve never seen so many letters addressed to the magazine in all the years I’ve worked here…and believe me, that’s more years than I’d like to admit! You took our invitation to speak your mind very seriously. Don’t stop! First, I’d like to say thank you to everyone who sent warm wishes on my daughter’s upcoming marriage and the experience of making her dress. I loved all the stories about your own experiences (see some photos in What Are You Sewing?), your guidance on resources, and your generous offers of advice at any time of the day or night! Watch out…I may take you up on it with a frantic call at 3:00 AM while on a sewing binge! One of the things that came across loud and clear is that you want to get to know us as much as we want to get to know you. So, in this issue there are articles written by Jeff Keith, Mary Harris and Tomasa Jimenez—all Vogue Patterns readers, just like you! And, we’ve tapped the talent from our offices, with an illustration for The Selfish Seamstress by Andrea Sparacio, and A Better Sweater embellishment project that was the joint effort of Ginny Maizenaski and Laurie Jackson-Murray. Plus, there’s an up-close-and-personal interview with Carlos Correa, our in-house designer, whose fabulous background was a mystery to many of us who work with him on a daily basis. You never know how talented people are until you make the effort to get to know them. We look forward to this being the beginning of a great relationship with you—our readers. I’d also like to talk to you about some of the other wonderful things we’ve been working on. This Please accept our invitation to be a contributor month, we’re introducing two new designers to the Vogue Patterns roster: Pamella Roland and to his magazine. If you Vena Cava. Each have a unique style and attitude that we feel adds a perfect balance to the Vogue have a technique, project line. We’ve also added a crossword puzzle, and a great giveaway of two tops from one (of three) free or story you’d like to projects! And, we’re thinking up more great concepts for future issues, so stay tuned! share with your fellow The excitement doesn’t stop with the Vogue brand…the entire McCall Pattern Company readers, write to me at is experiencing a Sewing Revolution! (See the page at left and you’ll know what I mean.) kathy@voguepatterns.com We’ve expanded our social networking by creating Facebook pages and we invite all of you or Kathy Marrone, Vogue to join us and get news instantly! Patterns Magazine, We’re also very excited about our Consumer Services department’s new video chat 120 Broadway, 34th floor, capabilities. That’s right! Now we can SHOW you how to get through the problem you’re having New York, NY 10271 putting that pattern together. The only condition is that your computer must have video chat capabilities as well. We spend hours reading your letters, online reviews and blogs, and researching sewing and fashion sites on the Internet to stay abreast of everything that’s happening. Naturally we love all the praise you give us, but we must admit there was one thing you didn’t like, and that was the removal of back views. You’ll be glad to know, they’re back! You spoke, we listened. And, we’ll continue to listen and use all that you say to tweak, modify, add and delete to make this the best sewing magazine ever! We’re constantly looking for new ways to communicate with you, but the good oldfashioned pen and paper still works too! So, no excuses! Write to us and tell us what you want. We’re working hard to make Vogue Patterns your go-to source for all things sewing, and we won’t stop.
Ruslan Gilmanshin/Dreamstime.com
R.S.V.P.
Kathy Marrone, Editor
www.voguepatterns.com
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free project
a better
sweater Take a ‘plain Jane’ sweater and turn it into a blooming beauty with just a few yards of ribbon and a little imagination. Follow our directions here, or use them as inspiration to make your own design. STEP BY STEP: (1) Start with a classic cardigan sweater. (2) Materials you’ll need: 31/2 yards of 1" wide ribbon; rhinestone buttons (optional); chalk marker; scissors, matching thread, pins, needle. (3) To determine the placement of the stem and flower, put the cardigan on and button it. Using a chalk marker draw a stem beginning at the lower edge and crossing over the center front. Be mindful of your bust area; do not have the stem sit directly on the bust. Draw placement lines for the petals; we drew seven but you can make as many as you desire. (4) Remove the sweater and place it on a flat surface. Place a piece of thin cardboard between the front and back. Following the stem chalk line, pin the ribbon to the cardigan, making intermittent twists of varying sizes. At the center front, wrap the ribbon over the edge. Turn under raw edges at all the ends. Handstitch the ribbon in place with small stitches along the edges to secure completely. (5) Following the petal chalk lines, pin the ribbon to the cardigan starting at the center, making intermittent folds along the length and folding at the tip to return to the center. Continue to complete all the petals. (6) Handstitch the ribbon in place with small stitches along the edges to secure completely. (7) Cut a 12" piece of ribbon. Stitch through the center of the ribbon with a long running stitch. Pull up the thread to gather. Press to flatten. Cut a 7" piece of ribbon; stitch, gather and flatten in the same manner. (8) Pin the 12" gathered piece to the center of the petals. Pin the 7" gathered piece to the bottom of the stem. Handstitch the ribbon in place with small stitches along the edges to secure completely. (9) OPTIONAL: Replace the cardigan buttons with rhinestone buttons. Sew rhinestone buttons to flower center.
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One Updated Denim Skirt, Four Great Looks. The accessories you add can take it from
Dancing Diva
Shore Things
Earrings: Kenneth Jay Lane. Shoulder bag: Sasha. Cuff bracelet: Lisa Stewart at National Jean Company. Shoes: 9 West.
Earrings and bracelet: Kenneth Jay Lane. Handbag: Romygold at National Jean Company. Shoes: Vena Cava. Top: J. Crew.
day to night and workday to weekend. Skirt V8697, Misses’/Misses’ Petite, 4-18.
Spring Showers
School Smarts
Bangle bracelets: Lauren G. Adams. Water Repellent Coat: Cassin New York. Gloves: Carolina Amato. Watch: Pedre Watch Company. Boots: Tretorn.
Earrings: K. Amato. Scarf: Christian Lacroix. Necklace: Maya J at National Jean Company. Belt: V7722. Shoes: Rosegold. 31
Nigel Barker
Simple in design, but lush in detail,
Above: The woman behind the Pamella Roland brand. This page: Sketches and photo from the Spring 2010 collection.
the clothes in the coveted Pamella Roland line are clean, elegant, and astonishingly adaptable. And that’s no accident. The brand may count celebrities like Angelina Jolie, Kim Cattrall, Halle Berry and Eva Longoria among its clients, but the designer behind the label, philanthropist and entrepreneur Pamella DeVos, says she creates clothing with a slightly different woman in mind—one who’s more likely rushing from a corporate office to a parentteacher conference than taking a turn on the red carpet (though no doubt she’ll stop for a dinner or cocktail party on the way home). “Women need clothing that is beautiful but adaptable,” says Pamella. “There are just so many different settings you’ll find yourself in during any given day.” Pamella describes her designs as “classics with innovative twists,” a label that couldn’t be more on the mark. Her approach to fashion is more timeless than trendy, but it’s all done with a thoroughly modern eye, seamlessly blending polished, simple silhouettes with sensual fabrics and gorgeous colors. In short they’re the clothes women want and love to wear. And now, thanks to a new pattern line for Vogue, they’re available to those who wan want to put their sewing skills to work echoing Pamella Roland’s signature attention to craftsmanship, quality and luxury detail. Voted “best dressed” by her high school ggraduating class, Pamella fell in love with cclothes at an early age, but took a rather ro roundabout road to the fashion industry. She sp spent her teens and early twenties working in aw women’s clothing store, an experience that gav gave her plenty of opportunity to discover and exp express her sense of style. She had dreams of stud studying fashion design, but her father persuaded her to pursue a business degree first. She agreed and hasn’t regretted the decision. “My business back background plays a major role in every facet of the Pame Pamella Roland brand,” she explains. “I draw on it for eeverything from the design of each collection to sou sourcing fabrics, working directly with the finest craftsm craftsmen and guiding the direction of our global sales eeffort.” After earning her business degree at Michiga Michigan State University, Pamella spent ten years building a successful career in marketing and public relations, all while raising a family with husband, Dan. In 2002 Pamella decided to shift gears and pursue her passion for fashion. Drawing on both her business contacts and her creativity she launched Pamella Roland. The first collection debuted in New (continued on page 70)
introducing
Pamella 68
VOGUE PATTERNS February/March 2011
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Hair and Makeup: JOSEPH BOGGESS
Hollywood glamour for day or evening. This mock-wrap number gives the illusion of bareness without any of the danger. The deep ruffle gives it sexy movement. Detachable flower included. Pamella Roland, V1232, Misses’ 6-22.
Roland
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