CUP Magazine

Page 1

issue 01 – may 2011

This is the house that Coffee built… MILAN –1CATHEDRAL SQUARE – c. 1962


And I shall dwell in the House of Coffee forever.





38 Flower Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90014 Phone: (213) 519-2896 Fax: (213) 519-2899 info@cupmagazine.com

editor in chief

Marcela Cebrowski art director

Louise Moore managing editor

Emily Clark

senior editor

Charles Ryan

assistant editor

Erin Ecolier

associate art director

Leo Daniels designer

Alejandra La Mar copy editor

Steven Dorchester contributing editors

Liz Anne Chy Carlo Sese Roan Magpantay Tony Ly


The Top 10 Benefits of Tea

Blending the Rules

The Morning Wake Up Call

Italian Coffee 101

The Origins of Coffee


THE DAILY DOSE Charles Ryan, Editor

Autumn Comes Early

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Sometimes I have to remind myself that it’s

nestled alongside the Columbia River. The

you’ll still be able to hold the magazine in

the present and not the future. Working in

event is truly paradise for a roaster, with

your hands — a must for print–media lovers

an advanced publication cycle, I often fall

numerous machines set up, some roasting

like me. But the magazine’s presence online

into the trap of thinking it’s the month of

competitions on the docket and myriad

will offer a new avenue of exposure. Please

the issue we’re currently working on. For

resources at the roasting pros’ disposal. A

visit cupmagazine.com and follow the link

example, it feels like September now, when

few of us from Cup attended, and in the time

to see the magazine in its digital form.

summer ends and another school year

I spent there I was able to add exponentially

Finally, when September finally does roll

begins. I keep thinking football season’s

to my rudimentary roasting knowledge. The

around, Cup will be heading to Coffee Fest

about to start… but then I snap back to the

event will be back at the Skamania this time

in Seattle. I have a special affection for

present. It’s been an eventful summer in

next year.

this show, as it was the first industry trade

Portland, including a heat wave that drove

Things have also been busy at Cup

show I attended. And like going back to

temperatures to an un–Northwest–like 106

headquarters, and one of our long–gestating

school, attending Coffee Fest Seattle each

degrees Fahrenheit.

projects is coming to fruition this month.

fall feels like a recalibration and a fresh

The are hosted a handful of coffee

Starting with this September issue, you will

start. Cup’s associate editor, Dan Leif, will

events as well, such as the annual Roasters

be able to read Cup in its entirety online,

have his first show experience at this year’s

Guild Retreat nearby Stevenson, Wash.

free of charge. This will allow us to instantly

event, so I look forward to gaining some

Typically held in rural Minnesota,

connect with a broader base of readers,

fresh perspective through him. And by then

the retreat took place in an equally

including international coffee professionals.

summer actually will be over, and I’ll feel a

picturesque setting at Skamania Lodge,

Cup will continue to print like normal, so

little more ready for the new season.

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All great things in this world come from a mistake, it seems. And coffee is no exception. But the history of coffee is one that is full of twists and turns, some political, some down to happenstance, but all of them have contributed to your double espresso being what it is today. by Laura Johnson

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THE HISTORY

to its final destination in Paris. The first

initially had difficulty obtaining these seeds

Coffee Arabica was discovered growing wild

greenhouse in Europe was built to shelter

yet he captivated the French Governor’s

on the plateaus of central Ethiopia around

the Noble Tree. This coffee tree flourished

wife and she in turn, sent him enough seeds

600 ad. The tree was found in Yemen on

and produced a substantial crop. The Noble

and shoots, which would commence the

the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula.

Tree gave birth to billions of Arabica trees,

coffee industry of Brazil. In 1893, the coffee

Coffee as a bean was first worshiped for its

which can still be found today growing in

from Brazil was introduced into Kenya and

medicinal properties then as a beverage for

Central and South America.

Tanzania, not far from its place of origin

religious meditation. Moving forward, it

Chevalier Gabriel Mathiew de Clieu

in Ethiopia, 600 years prior, ending its

found a home for itself in dwellings known

brought sprouts from the Noble Tree to

transcontinental journey.

as coffeehouses.    According to legend, the Arabs guarded the fertile seed of the Coffee Arabica. Circa 1650 ad, Baba Budan, a Moslem from India pilfered coffee seeds and returned to southern India. There he planted the seeds

"Coffeehouses sprung up throughout Europe. They would play a roll in the gathering of poets, artists and philosophers of the Age of Reason.”

in the Chikmagalgur hills starting the

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growth of the original trees known as var

Martinique in the Caribbean circa 1720.

COFFEE AND EUROPE

Old Chick, providing approximately one–

Those sprouts flourished and 50 years

Europeans fell in love with the bewitching

third of India’s coffee crop.

later there were 18,680 coffee trees in

brew of the Middle East. By the 17th–

Word spread about Indian coffee and

Martinique enabling the spread of coffee

century, Pope Clement VIII was facing

the French attempted to produce coffee in

cultivation in Haiti, Mexico and the islands

the rising tide of Islamic power. He was

Dijon but their attempts were futile due to

of the Caribbean.

advised that coffee, coming as it did from

the cold as they quickly learned that the

The Noble Tree also found its way to the

the East, was a threat to Christianity. The

coffee tree can not endure frost. Next, the

island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean known

Pope wisely tried a pot first. Far from

Dutch planted the seeds in Java where they

as the Isle of Bourbon. The plant produced

agreeing to conspiracy theories and “coffee

flourished and established a dependable

smaller beans and was deemed a different

plots,” he blessed the drink and made it a

crop. In 1715, Louis xiv of France learned

variety of Arabica known as var Bourbon.

Christian beverage.

of this coffee tree and soon had a passion

The infamous Santos coffee of Brazil and the

The Dutch, being practical and wise,

for coffee. He was granted a favor from

Oaxaca coffee of Mexico are the progeny of

could see its potential as a cash crop and

the Dutch, who went to great lengths to

that Bourbon tree. Circa 1727, the emperor

imported it to Java. Later they presented a

obtain a coffee tree, the infamous Noble

of Brazil sent Francisco de Mello Palheta

coffee tree to Louis XIV of France. His love of

Tree. This tree traveled from the Arabian

to French Guinea to obtain coffee seeds to

a good cup of coffee led him to build the first

port of Mocha then to Java across Holland

become a part of the coffee market. Francisco

green house to nurture his beloved tree.


Coffea arabica is a species of coffee originally indigenous to the mountains of Yemen in the Arabian Peninsula, hence its name, and also from the southwestern highlands of Ethiopia and southeastern Sudan. It is also known as the “coffee shrub of Arabia”, “mountain coffee” or “arabica coffee.”

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In 1652 the first coffeehouse (known as “penny universities” because a penny was charged per cup) was opened in England. It was through English coffeehouses that “tips” became popular. These European coffeehouses became centers of social activity. They attracted a variety of patrons from artists to merchants to brokers.

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Coffee spread like wild fire across the Continent, gathering an ever growing group of devotees. Coffeehouses sprung up throughout Europe. They would play a roll in the gathering of poets, artists and

"It was in coffeehouses that the Revolutionaries met, here they planned the Boston Tea Party and gave the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence."

philosophers of the Age of Reason.    In England, known as the bastion of

to the Caribbean. The French were just as

In the late 1800’s, the local roasting

tea, coffee was embraced emphatically.

jealous of their industry as the Arabs had

shop and coffee mill was a commonplace

Such institutions as Lloyd’s of London

been earlier in this story. But just as the

sight in most western cities — that is, until

would begin as coffeehouses. As in the

Arabs were not able to contain the spread of

Hills Bros. begun packing roast coffee in

Ottoman Empire, coffeehouses would be

coffee, the French would not be able to either.

vacuum tins, destroying the roasting shop

the congregating places of those who would

Coffee came to Brazil in another

industry for all but a few large companies

influence their era. In fact, coffeehouses

wonderful escapade. Francisco de Melo

in the process. A year later, in 1901, instant

became synonymous with places of free

Palheta is remembered in legend as suave

coffee was created by Japanese–American

speech. This would have consequences when

and gallant. In order to get coffee seeds, he

chemist Satori Kato in Chicago, and two

it was imported to America.

turned his considerable charms on the wife

years after that, a German coffee importer,

of the governor of French Guiana. Through

Ludwig Roselius, decides to see if a batch of

COFFEE IN THE NEW WORLD

the aid of his lover, Don Francisco was

ruined beans can be turned into something

able to smuggle the green beans out in the

useful by his researchers. They notice the

As hard as it is to believe today, coffee

following way. As the lady bade farewell she

caffeine has been removed by the water that

was unknown in the Caribbean and Latin

handed him a bouquet of flowers. Hidden

ruined the beans, and the decaffeinated

America less than 300 years ago. It was

inside were the precious seeds of coffee, the

product is soon marketed as Sanka.

through the ingenuity of one man, Gabriel

first to planted in Brazil.

And if you think coffee was big by

Mathieu de Clieu, that coffee made its debut.

that point, just imagine what happened

COFFEE AND REVOLUTION

when the American government banned

cultivation to the New World, de Clieu sought out the French court. He traveled

The first license to sell coffee in the

Twenty years later, the United States

through storms and pirate attacks. And

American colonies was given to a

regularly imports a whopping 70% of the

as if these heroic efforts were not enough,

woman named Dorothy Jones. It was in

world coffee crop for itself. American

his ship was becalmed. Sharing his water

coffeehouses that the Revolutionaries met,

soldiers are issued instant Maxwell House

rations with the one surviving plant, de

here they planned the Boston Tea Party

coffee in their ration kits as they fight World

Clieu brought coffee to Martinique. He was

and gave the first public reading of the

War II, while widespread hoarding on the

successful in bringing coffee plantations

Declaration of Independence.

home front leads to coffee becoming a

Realizing the potential of bringing coffee

alcohol in 1920. Coffee sales skyrocketed.

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A FEW FACTS ABOUT COFFEE

coffee plantations in Ceylon Sumatra and other Sunda islands. Coffee trees were soon

 Coffee is the second most traded product in the world after petroleum. World

grown under glass at the Hortus Botanicus

wide coffee production tips the scales at about 6 million metric tonnes.

of Leiden, whence slips were generously

 It takes five years for a coffee tree to reach maturity. The average yield from

extended to other botanical gardens. Dutch

one tree is the equivalent of one roasted pound of coffee.

representatives at the negotiations that led

 Of the various botanical species of coffee trees in the world, only two are

to the Treaty of Utrecht presented their

extensively cultivated commercially; Arabica and Robusta.

French counterparts with a coffee plant,

 The expression “a cup of Joe” to denote coffee, was first coined during WWII,

which was grown on at the Jardin du Roi,

when American servicemen (G.I. Joe) were identified as big coffee drinkers.

predecessor of the Jardin des Plantes, in Paris.

 The largest coffee–producing nation, Brazil, is responsible for 30 to 40% of total

The introduction of coffee to the

world output.

Americas was effected by Captain Gabriel

 In the late 1800’s, Chase and Sanborn put out a flier on how to read the coffee

des Clieux, who obtained cuttings from

grounds at the bottom of the cup (like a fortune teller).

the reluctant botanist Antoine de Jussieu,

 Coffee cherries usually contain two “beans”, except for the single bean

who was loath to disfigure the king's coffee

peaberry anomaly. Cherries with three beans are deemed to be a sign of good luck.

tree. Clieux, when water rations dwindled

 A Belgian living in Guatemala invented the first instant coffee in 1906 and later

during a difficult voyage, shared his portion

immigrated to the United States. His name was George Washington.

with his precious plants and protected them from a Dutchman, perhaps an agent of the Provinces jealous of the Batavian trade. Clieux nurtured the plants on his arrival

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the country. The other side of the War was

of the governing board of the Dutch East

in the West Indies, and established them

working coffee magic too, as Italian Achilles

India Company who urged Joan van Hoorn,

in Guadeloupe and Saint–Domingue in

Gaggia invented the espresso machine.

the Dutch governor at Batavia that some

addition to Martinique, where a blight had

He duly named the Cappuccino for its

coffee plants be obtained at the export port

struck the cacao plantations, which were

resemblance to the color of the robes of the

of Mocha in Yemen, the source of Europe's

replaced by coffee plantations in a space of

monks of the Capuchin order.

supply, and established in the Dutch

three years, is attributed to France through

East Indies; the project of raising many

its colonization of many parts of the

COFFEE PRODUCTION

plants from the seeds of the first shipment

continent starting with the Martinique and

The first step in Europeans' wresting

met with such success that the Dutch

the colonies of the West Indies where the

the means of production was effected

East India Company was able to supply

first French coffee plantations were founded.

by Nicolaes Witsen, the enterprising

Europe's demand with "Java coffee" by 1719.

The first coffee plantation in Brazil

burgomaster of Amsterdam and member

Encouraged by their success, they soon had

occurred in 1727 when Lt. Col. Francisco


de Melo Palheta smuggled seeds, still

by means of the Addis Ababa – Djibouti

1995, Starbucks had become a pop culture

essentially from the germ plasm originally

Railway. While only 245,000 kilograms

reference, with a store on every block, and,

taken from Yemen to Batavia, from French

were freighted by the Railway, this amount

in some cases, every corner. From 1995 to

Guiana. By the 1800s, Brazil's harvests

jumped to 2,240,000 kilograms by 1922,

2000, coffee consumption skyrockets once

would turn coffee from an elite indulgence

surpassed exports of "Harari" coffee by

more, rising a whopping 700%. The price paid

to a drink for the masses. Brazil, which like

1925, and reached 9,260,000 kilograms in

to grower’s drops, in the same time, by over

most other countries cultivates coffee as a

1936. Australia is a minor coffee producer,

50%, due largely to competition from Asian

commercial commodity, relied heavily on

with little product for export, but its coffee

growers and predatory buying practices.

slave labor from Africa for the viability of

history goes back to 1880 when the first of

the plantations until the abolition of slavery

500 acres (2.0 km2) began to be developed

in 1888. The success of coffee in 17th–

in an area between northern New South

COFFEE IS A GLOBAL COMMODITY

century Europe was paralleled with the

Wales and Cooktown. Today there are

The importance of coffee in the world

spread of the habit of tobacco smoking all

several producers of Arabica coffee in

economy cannot be overstated. It is one

over the continent during the course of the

Australia that use a mechanical harvesting

of the most valuable primary products in

Thirty Years' War (1618–1648).

system invented in 1981.

world trade, in many years second in value

Despite the origins of coffee cultivation

only to oil as a source of foreign exchange

in Ethiopia, that country produced only a

COFFEE TODAY

to developing countries. Its cultivation,

small amount for export until the Twentieth

Coffee has not only held its own through

processing, trading, transportation and

Century, and much of that not from the

centuries of American tradition, but has

marketing provide employment for millions

south of the country but from the environs

become even more popular in the last few

of people worldwide. Coffee is crucial to the

of Harar in the northeast. The Kingdom

decades. Americans are rediscovering the

economies and politics of many developing

of Kaffa, home of the plant, was estimated

enjoyment of specialty coffees with their rich

countries; for many of the world’s Least

to produce between 50,000 and 60,000

taste and robust flavors. In the U.S., coffee

Developed Countries, exports of coffee

kilograms of coffee beans in the 1880s.

is in no danger of dying out. Coffeehouses

account for a substantial part of their foreign

Commercial production effectively

are once again the popular meeting places of

exchange earnings in some cases over 80%.

began in 1907 with the founding of the

artists,students, philosophers, as well as all

Coffee is a traded commodity on major

inland port of Gambela, and greatly

who love the aromatic taste of a Cup of Joe.

futures and commodity exchanges, most

increased afterwards: 100,000 kilograms of

Of course coffee didn’t just stop in the U.S.

importantly in London and New York.

coffee was exported from Gambela in 1908,

It was destined to conquer the New World

while in 1927–8 over 4 million kilograms

more thoroughly and peacefully than any

passed through that port. Coffee plantations

other immigrant.

were also developed in Arsi Province at the

In 1971, Starbucks opened its first store

same time, and were eventually exported

in Seattle’s Pike Place public market. By

This article was first published in Italian Cook Recipe http://italiancook.ca/origins–coffee. htm#item1 Coffee Facts was first published in The Heritage Coffee Company http://www.heritage– coffee.com/A%20few%20coffee%20facts.htm

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The Morning

Wake Up Call SO WHAT MAKES ESPRESSO SO MUCH DIFFERENT THAN REGULAR COFFEE?

by Sean Stevens

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WHAT IS ESPRESSO?

This machine’s commercial success

The word espresso comes from the Italian

changed espresso into the beverage we

words caffé espresso which literally means

know today. Starbucks has taken espresso

pressed–out coffee. Espresso is brewed by

production to a new level and the market

forcing very hot water under high pressure

continues to grow each year.

through coffee that has been ground to and powder. This process extracts a very

HOW DOES ESPRESSO DIFFER FROM COFFEE?

flavorful concentrated coffee beverage. In

The main differences between espresso

Italy, good espresso is defined by the “four

coffee and drip coffee are the fineness of the

Ms” – Miscela, Macinazione, Macchina,

grind and the brewing time. The brewing

Mano. These four words loosely translates

time for espresso coffee is much shorter,

to: blend of coffee beans, the grinding

made possible by espresso machines that

process, the machine, and the person

generate up to 15 atmospheres of pressure to

making the espresso.

force the water through the coffee.

Espresso was developed in Milan, Italy

A shot of espresso is made by forcing

in the early 20th century, but up until the

about 1.5 ounces of nearly boiling water

mid–1940s it was a beverage produced

through tightly packed, finely ground

solely with steam pressure. A simple

espresso coffee. If everything goes well,

espresso machine uses a pot, a filter, ground

what comes out is a dark brown, slightly

coffee and a spout. The water i heated

thick liquid with a small amount of crema (a

pressure builds inside the pot, and the only

foam, sort of like the head on a beer) on top.

way for it to escape is up the spout, through

Espresso has a thicker consistency

the coffee and out of the spout in the top.

than standard drip coffee. It also contains a

Since the end of the spout is under water,

higher amount of dissolved solids than drip

the pressure forces the hot water up through

coffee per relative volume. And probably

the spout. Modern day espresso machines

the most noticeable thing when you pay $6

have really caught on since the invention of

bucks is that the serving is much smaller.

the spring piston lever machine.

Espresso is usually measured in shots, which

a consistency between extremely fine

Previous page: In addition to the Italian style of coffee, coffee chains typically offer many variations by adding syrups, whipped cream, flavour extracts, soy milk, and various spices to their drinks.

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are between 25 and 30 ml. (around 1 fluid ounce) in size. Espresso is also chemically complex and somewhat volatile, with many of its chemical components


The first record of a public place serving coffee dates back to 1475. Kiva Han was the name of the first coffee shop, located in the Turkish city of Constantinople (now Istanbul).


“When the bean is fresh and just ground, when the pressure and temperature are just right, when the crema lies as a thick cover on the black beverage and the distinguished scent spreads with all its power and mercilessly forces its way into your smell and taste organs, then there is nothing able to compete with it. If you once fall in love, you will be devoted to it forever.�



quickly degrading from oxidation or loss

However, a nice crema does not guarantee

all the potentials of coffee can be properly

of temperature.

a good espresso as it can hide a terrible

estimated by tasting the espresso coffee.

Just by looking at it, the most

coffee underneath. A good espresso, though,

There seems to be a shift of focus in the

distinguishing characteristic is “crema”.

always has a silky crema on top. The ‘crema’

minds of coffee connoisseurs. A shift from

Crema is the reddish–brown foam that floats

traps and holds the finest coffee oils and

technical admiration to the real heart of the

on the surface and is composed of vegetable

aromas that in other brewing processes are

matter, taste. For a true coffee lover there

oils, proteins and sugars. Crema has elements

lost to the atmosphere. The crema should

is nothing better than a well made cup of

of both emulsion and foam colloid.

form as a thick, golden–brown, marbled

coffee. When the bean is fresh and just

Because of the high pressure brewing

foam across the whole surface of the

ground, when the pressure and temperature

process, espresso tends to be a very highly

espresso cup and cling to the sides.

are just right, when the crema lies as a

concentrated “shot” of coffee. While

thick cover on the black beverage and the distinguished scent spreads with all its

approximately three times the caffeine

WHICH TYPE OF COFFEE BEANS IS USED TO MAKE ESPRESSO?

content of regular brewed coffee. In most

The core of the espresso is the coffee bean.

nothing able to compete with it. If you once

cases, 1 shot of espresso will have about

Contrary to popular belief, there is no

fall in love, you will be devoted to it forever.

half the caffeine of a standard large coffee.

specific coffee bean type or roast required to

For this reason, it has become the base

make espresso. Remember, espresso is made

ingredient for other drinks, such as lattes,

from the process, not the bean or blend.

A FINAL WORD ON ESPRESSO

cappuccino, macchiato and mochas.

Typically, espresso is made from a blend of

Owning your own espresso maker has

there can be significant variation, on a per–volume basis, espresso contains

your smell and taste organs, then there is

beans that can be roasted ranging between

become quite popular in recent years and

THE CREMA

dark and light. Really good coffee is roasted

there are many styles of machines to choose

A good espresso always has compact golden

just before brewing, since the average shelf

from. Some operate with just the touch of a

foam on the top. This foam is called crema

life of roasted coffee beans is only two weeks.

button. I encourage you to do your research

and is one of the most important components

Commercial espresso makers like Starbucks

before you buy there are many different

of the espresso. If you visit a coffee shop

go with a darker roast of beans to produce

options and many different price ranges to

worthy of its name they will never serve

their traditional flavor.

consider. Good luck on your quest for the

an espresso without crema, it would be

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power and mercilessly forces its way into

perfect cup of espresso.

undignified. A bad espresso has one or more

THE TASTE SENSATION

of the following:

The quality of espresso coffee can be

• • •

Bitter taste

discovered in the cup, only. Through tasting

Thin consistency

it is possible to verify the real quality of

No crema

the product. It is important to note that

This article was first published in ArticlesBased http://www.articlesbase.com/food–and– beverage–articles/espresso–the–morning–wake– up–call–502826.html and Espresso Guide http:// www.espressoguide.net/espresso


Drinking an espresso coffee can also be an art. In an Italian cafĂŠ, you might witness patrons breathing in the aroma as they hold the cup and saucer, and then drinking the entire beverage in 3 or 4 quick gulps. The ritual is finished by firmly but gently tapping the cup back onto the saucer.


BLENDING THE RULES The Art & Science of Combining Coffees by Willem Boot

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My personal experiences with coffee blends started many years ago in The Netherlands. In my home country, like in most other northern European countries, consumers were traditionally accustomed to standardized blends that would have a major component from Brazil, some Central American beans, usually some Indonesian coffee, complemented by robusta beans from West Africa.    One day, while working in my dad’s roasting retail store, I decided to experiment with some simple blending recipes. The results were fascinating. I discovered that by blending a high– and low–body coffee (like Sulawesi and Costa Rica), the blend’s body became very smooth, resulting in a velvety mouthfeel. I also discovered another interesting phenomenon: blending high–acid coffees together didn’t necessarily result in a pleasant end result. It was as if the coffees, with their intense acidity, were clashing, resulting in an almost hardish sourness.    While doing my own experiments, I also started to realize the importance of proper record–keeping. One day I believed I

This Moloka‘i–grown espresso, made from fine arabica beans and roasted to a state of perfect intensity, matches the power of those tough–living adventurers.

had found the ideal marriage between three coffee types: Panama, India Mysore and Tanzania AA. Each component was roasted to its own distinct degree, and after blending the beans I brewed some regular drip filter, followed by a French press preparation.

22


The blend was delicious; the refreshing acidity of the Panama and the nutty flavor tones of the India Mysore combined beautifully with the chocolate and berry notes of the Tanzania AA. When I tried to re–create the blend, I realized that I hadn’t kept any bean samples of the individual coffees, nor had I made any detailed notes during the roast process. Despite many frantic attempts, I have not been able to successfully craft my “phantom” blend again.    Remember, along the way, it’s important to take detailed notes about which greens you chose, how you roasted them and what percentage of each you used. Once you’ve created a blend, or blends, that are to your liking, you want to be able to recreate each element to perfection. Whether blends are the mainstay of your roasting company, or something that you offer just to round out your selection, it’s a good idea to remember that adage we talked about earlier: coffee blends are always more than the sum of their parts. So the key to crafting a great blend is to make sure each of those parts is perfect before you dump them all together. This article was first published in the July/August 2006 issue of Roast Magazine.

Colombian Supremo coffee is grown high in the Colombian Andes and is famous for it’s smooth pleasant acidity, smooth finish, nutty overtones and rich medium to full body. Colombian coffee is the world’s second largest producer of coffee and is famous for producing fine gourmet coffees.

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BRAZIL Choose a pulped natural type with full body, no musty notes and slight aftertaste of fermented fruit.

SUMATRA Select a Gayo or Mandheling region coffee with clean earthy notes.

GUATEMALA Find any SHB Guatemala with vibrant acidity and clean fruit notes (with lighter roast levels these attributes generally contribute to a piquant acidity; with darker roast degrees they develop attractive chocolate notes).

PANAMA Choose a Volcanor Santa Clara– grown Panama with medium to bright acidity and lingering sweetness.

KENYA Source a stellar bean with multilayered acidity and bright berry notes.

Chocolate is a common additive that is either sprinkled on top or mixed with the coffee to imitate the taste of Mocha. Other flavorings include spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, or Italian syrups.

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ETHIOPIA For this exercise, I recommend a sun–dried Yirgacheffe or Sidamo grade 3 with well–ripened, dense fruit flavors.

NICARAGUA Prepare a Nueva Segovia, Matagalpa or Jinotega with pleasant fruit notes and a smooth mouthfeel.

COLOMBIA For this exercise, I prefer a Colombian that is of the caturra or typica variety with a bright acidity, full body and clean aftertaste. The coffee can have some fruit attributes, but if you use a Huila watch out for dominant fruity notes.

DECAF I prefer the Mountain Water Process Decaf or the Swiss Water Decaf, and I recommend trying Ethiopian decaf for the described blend.

In some cultures, flavored coffees are common. Vanilla– and hazelnut–flavored coffees are common in the United States; these are usually artificially flavored.

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A Guide & Vocabulary List by Jessica Brown

Venice, Italy. 27


28

All the way through high school and college,

anything but hello to the folks behind the

coffee shops or cafes in the U.S. are called

I couldn’t stand the stuff. And after college,

counter before they’d start making my beloved

bars in Italy.

when I discovered a “mocha” at the coffee

marocchino. But my stomach never rebelled

 Coffee isn’t meant to be sipped slowly

shop near my office, I only kinda liked it. It

— the ulcer pains never returned. And even

for hours. Italian coffee comes in tiny

was better than black coffee, but only just.

after returning to the U.S. and switching to a

quantities, and it doesn’t come in to–go

And after awhile, it turned out that all coffee

daily 16 oz. latte (when in Rome, and all that),

cups. You stop at the bar en route to work

— even the decaf stuff — gave me ulcer

my stomach seemed to adjust.

or school for a quick shot of coffee, and you

pains. So I stopped drinking coffee of any

So, you see, Italy made me a

usually don’t even sit down for it.

kind in 1995. (And stop doing math to try to

coffee drinker. And all of this is a long

 Stopping for a coffee at other points in the

figure out how old I am, ‘kay?)

introduction to a subject that, prior to 2008,

day is normal and accepted, and because

Fast forward to early 2008 when I

held virtually no interest for me but is now

the quantity is still small, you’re not really

arrived in Milan for what would be a five–

near and dear to my heart – Italian coffee.

at risk of being up all night from a 2pm shot.

week stay in Italy. I was desperate to become

While I’m completely comfortable with the

 You’ve probably heard that Italians don’t

a regular at the corner bar by my apartment.

gigantic quantities of coffee I drink in the

drink cappuccino after 11am; but what this

I wanted the experience of walking in,

U.S., I’m a chameleon and switch over easily

comes from is the Italian belief that drinking

smiling at familiar faces, and saying, “The

to the tiny cups of divine Italian coffee I get

milk after a meal screws up digestion. So

usual, please” — and then having them

in Italy. If you’re a die–hard coffee lover,

Italians just won’t order a cappuccino after

smile back and know exactly what I wanted.

you’ll be taken care of in Italy – but you’ll

a meal, no matter what time of day it is. In

So even though I feared my stomach would

need to get used to the new names of coffee

Italy, a cappuccino is the meal.

rebel instantly and send me into fits of pain

drinks that you’ll be presented with. The

 I said it above, but it bears repeating. You’ve

that would last for 24+ hours, I started

words you think you know as Italian don’t

got to start over with your Italian coffee lingo.

having my daily marocchino at the corner

work in Italian coffee shops. Here, then, is

Your education starts with this libretto.

bar. And guess what? Nothing happened.

my Italian Coffee 101.

Well, not nothing. I did get my coveted

First, you’ll need to know a few things:

“regular” status, and about the middle of

 Where do you get your coffee? In a bar.

my stay in Milan I didn’t even have to say

Not a cafe. Not a coffee shop. What we call

This article was first published in Why Go Italy http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/5LCNwE/www. italylogue.com/featured–articles/italian–coffee– 101–a–guide–vocabulary–list.html


c o f f e e v o c a b u l a ry t y p e s o f i ta l i a n c o f f e e d r i n k s

29


The Top 10 Benefits of Tea

Current research suggests that green tea may prevent cancer, while black tea may prevent strokes and heart attacks. by Lynn Grieger

30



Tea has many powerful antioxidants, polyphenols, and catechins in it, which strongly contribute to its vast benefits, plus contains less caffeine than coffee. A cup of black tea has the most caffeine content, yet still amounts to half of what is in a cup of coffee. White, green, and oolong teas have even less. To achieve the maximum benefits of tea, it is always recommended that you brew it by using whole loose leaves instead of tea bags. You also achieve a superior true flavor this way as well.    There are lots of reasons why I enjoy a hot cup of tea: I love the aroma of various flavors of tea; holding onto a hot tea mug warms my hands on a cold winter morning; sipping tea in front of the fireplace is a great way to relax. And those are just the feel–good reasons. If you’re not drinking tea yet, read up on these 10 ways tea does your body good.

Camellia sinensis is an evergreen plant that grows mainly in tropical and sub–tropical climates. Nevertheless, some varieties can also tolerate marine climates and are cultivated as far north as Pembrokeshire in the British mainland and Washington in the United States.

32


1. Tea contains antioxidants. Like the Rust–Oleum paint that

6. Tea bolsters your immune defenses. Drinking tea may help

keeps your outdoor furniture from rusting, tea’s antioxidants protect

your body’s immune system fight off infection.

your body from the ravages of aging and the effects of pollution.

7. Tea protects against cancer. Thank the polyphenols, the

2. Tea has less caffeine than coffee. Coffee usually has two

antioxidants found in tea, once again for their cancer–fighting

to three times the caffeine of tea. An eight–ounce cup of coffee

effects. While the overall research is inconclusive, there are enough

contains around 135 mg caffeine; tea contains only 30 to 40 mg per

studies that show the potential protective effects of drinking tea to

cup. If drinking coffee gives you the jitters, causes indigestion or

make adding tea to your list of daily beverages.

headaches or interferes with sleep — switch to tea.

8. Tea helps keep you hydrated. Caffeinated beverages,

3. Tea may reduce your risk of heart attack and stroke.

including tea, used to be on the list of beverages that didn’t

Unwanted blood clots formed from cholesterol and blood platelets

contribute to our daily fluid needs. Since caffeine is a diuretic and

cause heart attack and stroke. Drinking tea may help keep your

makes us pee more, the thought was that caffeinated beverages

arteries smooth and clog–free, the same way a drain keeps your

couldn’t contribute to our overall fluid requirement. However,

bathroom pipes clear. A 5.6–year study from the Netherlands found

recent research has shown that the caffeine really doesn’t matter

a 70 % lower risk of fatal heart attack in people who drank at least

— tea and other caffeinated beverages definitely contribute to our

two to three cups of black tea daily compared to non–tea drinkers.

fluid needs. The only time the caffeine becomes a problem as far as

4. Tea protects your bones. It’s not just the milk added to tea

fluid is concerned is when you drink more than five or six cups of a

that builds strong bones. One study that compared tea drinkers with

caffeinated beverage at one time.

non–drinkers, found that people who drank tea for 10 or more years

9. Tea is calorie–free. Tea doesn’t have any calories, unless you

had the strongest bones, even after adjusting for age, body weight,

add sweetener or milk. Consuming even 250 fewer calories per

exercise, smoking and other risk factors. The authors suggest that

day can result in losing one pound per week. If you’re looking for a

this may be the work of tea’s many beneficial phytochemicals.

satisfying, calorie–free beverage, tea is a top choice.

5. Tea gives you a sweet smile. One look at the grimy grin of

10. Tea increases your metabolism. Lots of people complain

Austin Powers and you may not think drinking tea is good for your

about a slow metabolic rate and their inability to lose weight. Green

teeth, but think again. It’s the sugar added to it that’s likely to blame

tea has been shown to actually increase metabolic rate so that you

for England’s bad dental record. Tea itself actually contains fluoride

can burn 70 to 80 additional calories by drinking just five cups of

and tannins that may keep plaque at bay. So add unsweetened tea

green tea per day. Over a year’s time you could lose eight pounds

drinking to your daily dental routine of brushing and flossing for

just by drinking green tea. Of course, taking a 15–minute walk every

healthier teeth and gums.

day will also burn calories.



Whole, loose tea leaves will generally brew a better cup of tea than a tea bag. Some high-quality tea bags do contain whole leaves, so this really doesn’t apply to all tea bags.


TEAS & THEIR MEDICAL BENEFITS  WHITE TEA Very high in antioxidants, studies show white tea is excellent for skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It may also have profound power against cancer–causing cells and against many different types of cancer.

 BLACK TEA Good for the heart and gentle stimulant. Helps to lower cholesterol, fat buster, immune stimulant, arthritis soother, virus fighter and prevent tooth decay.

 GREEN TEA May help lower cholesterol, regulate blood sugar level, good for digestion, prevents cavities, aging; fights cancer and heart disease.


 ROOIBOS TEA More antioxidants than green tea and caffeine free. Rooibos improves digestion, good for skin and allergies. High in vitamins and minerals.

 OOLONG TEA A relaxing tea that is good for skin and teeth, enhances metabolism, good for digestion.

 HERBAL TEA Naturally caffeine free. High in Vitamin C and antioxidants, it aids with stomach and digestive problems, provides cleansing properties for the body, and promotes energy and wellness.


CITY ROAST Retailer Spotlight with Dan Leif

38

West is decorated with works from local

lemonade and blended blueberries over ice.

CAFE WEST

independent jewelers and artists. The soft

Organic loose–leaf teas, cafes and espresso,

123 W Amerige Ave.

soothing music calms the caffeinated crowd,

cold drinks and blended concoctions will

Fullerton, CA 92832

some of whom focus on their laptops with

leave your taste buds satisfied.

(714) 773–632

the free Wi–Fi access.

“Our espresso is really good and

In comparison with surrounding coffee

doesn’t require a lot of sweetener. But when

Cucumber lemonade? Organic soy chai

shops and chains, Café West feels like a

I’m craving chocolate, our ‘blended banana

bomb? Why not?

down–to–earth mom ‘n’ pop shop.

mocha’ is really good,” Trompeter said.

A hidden jewel in downtown Fullerton,

“The environment is relaxed here, it’s not

Cafe West also sells their teas and coffees

Café West offers its customers a variety of

too crowded and crazy. The employees get to

to take home, along with coffee goods and

coffee, full–leaf tea, phenomenal mixed

know their customers, like Jen, she’s super

supplies. For the customer’s enjoyment,

and frozen drinks and a lush menu of

nice and knows all of us, so we just naturally

there are board games and books. The

breakfast items, local bakery goods, paninis,

come here,” Snyder said.

books are an ever–changing collection,

sandwiches, salads and sides.

“I like the ‘Hippie Chick Vegetarian.’ It

provided by customers on the honor

Located off of Commonwealth and

has all the stuff that’s necessary for a good

system. Take a book, leave a book. There

West Amerige, hidden in the same lot as the

sandwich like sprouts, fresh avocado and

was everything from how to travel in Asia

“Back Alley,” Café West represents its area

other fresh vegetables,” said employee Heather

to understanding real estate.

well. They prepare everything with “only

Trompeter, 24, a CSUF English major.

Café West, a proud supporter of local

the freshest, highest quality ingredients.

All lunch items are served with the

artists, helps to exhibit their works during

Choosing locally grown, all–natural and

choice of a side, most commonly ordered,

the new “Downtown Fullerton Art Walk.”

organic products whenever possible.”

the Dill potato salad, a creamy and flavorful

The art walk is an intimate conglomeration

Everything from the sweet and dedicated

mouthful of goodness for under $8. There

of independent businesses that showcase

owner, Jennifer Kim, a CSUF business

is also a daily lunch special, which includes

rotating local artists art in their shops. The

alumna, to the cookies on the counter, is local.

a half panini of your choice, a side and a

art walk takes place on the first Friday of

Customers Ashton Arndt and Devin

drink for $6.99.

every month. This month, Café West is

Snyder, both students, have been enjoying

In preparation for summer, a new

displaying abstract acrylic pieces and next

the food and drinks at Café West for a

drink menu is currently being put together.

month will have oil paintings on display.

little over a year. Most of all, they enjoy the

Kim is excited for the new “blueberry

During summer, look out for the live music

atmosphere. Supporting an indie ideal, Café

lemonade;” a combination of fresh

performances.



CITY ROAST Retailer Spotlight with Dan Leif

40

water into a strainer–equipped teapot to

embraced as a refuge. A private banquet

TRANQUIL TEA LOUNGE

brew your chosen leaves.

room has been the site of many bridal

106 W. Wilshire Ave.

The iced ones are prepared at the

showers and mom–blog gatherings. (Tip for

Fullerton, CA 92832

bar. Leaves are measured from silver

those of us with Y chromosomes: You will

(714) 869–3577

canisters that line a shelf like those at an old

be outnumbered.)

apothecary’s shop. The tea is then steeped,

Light salads and half–sandwiches

Tranquil Tea Lounge proprietors treat the

sweetened and shaken with ice, as if it were

are the preferred things to nibble here.

leaves with the care of meticulous curators,

a martini. Next to the register is a sniffing

Nobody orders the full sandwiches: Tranquil’s

the inspiration of mad inventors, the zeal

station, with all the varietals stored in tiny jars.

permanent $8 special includes a choice of

of passionate advocates. This place revels

Sip any tea slowly, so its perfumes can climb

half a sandwich, side salad or soup of the day,

in tea. It celebrates tea. If there were a

up your nostrils, tickling receptors you

along with your choice of almost any tea.

graduate course in tea, an internship here

never knew you had.

And of course, sweets. A warm

would be a requirement.

The slightly tannic Mauna Loa, is

chocolate chip, peanut butter and banana

“The folks who own this place are self–

a mixture of green tea, almonds, white

scone crumbles as beautifully as the

professed tea snobs,” a fellow sipper told

chocolate bits, macadamia and pistachio

chocolate and caramel sauce swirled on

me. Are they ever. With an encyclopedic

nuts, Roman chamomile flowers, cocoa

the plate. The crispy–yet–chewy French

menu that catalogs every conceivable and

kernels, and cracknel bits. The composition

macarons are stuffed with teeth–rotting

not–so–conceivable permutation of teas

of my Chili Truffle beverage included black

fillings that actually taste like the flavors

black, green, oolong, white, pu–erh, rooibos,

tea, cocoa bits, chili, white chocolate and

they’re supposed to represent.

maté, herbal and tisane, one could visit for

pink peppercorns. I was more relieved

Me? I prefer to close with the North

a hundred consecutive days and never taste

than disappointed that the brew was more

End Float, which is a chilled glass of cocoa

the same drink twice.

chocolatey than spicy.

and pu–erh tea with a scoop of vanilla ice

For every tea, you have to decide

Except for the occasional Englishman,

cream dropped into it. The malty–ness

whether you want it iced or hot. Choose

Tranquil’s target demographic are females

reminded me of glasses of Ovaltine I had

iced, and you’ll receive not only a tall,

of a certain age and predilection who were

as a kid. I drank it after a few bites of their

sweaty glass, but also an extra carafe to top

woefully underserved in a downtown

dainty cream puffs, which were cute as

it off. Opt for hot, and your server—who

known mostly for testosterone–fueled rock

buttons. Yes, I said “buttons.” Hey, I’m

may be owner Michellee Phelps or her

& roll bars and boozy cantinas. Since its

secure enough in my manhood to count

brother, Jonathan Munsayac—will pour hot

debut last June, this tea lounge has been

Tranquil as my new hangout.







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