Barbecue Like a Pro

Kevin Cornish, owner of KC’s Rib Shack, shares his secrets

BY EMILY REILY / PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY KC’S RIB SHACK

July 4 cookouts are a staple of the summer holiday, along with parades, fireworks and afternoon get-togethers. But good barbecue might be the most important ingredient of all. Can you imagine biting into a juicy rib with just the right amount of fat, flavor, spice, tenderness and smokiness?

Whether on a small scale or large, a Fourth of July barbecue usually involves the basics: hamburgers and hot dogs on the grill; corn on the cob; mashed potatoes and coleslaw.

But if you’d like to step up your barbecue game this year and serve some serious chops, we’ve got the lowdown on a simple, no, foolproof way to do it. While barbecue is as American as apple pie and just as varied, you don’t need to be a world-class pitmaster to deliver good food at your Independence Day picnic or gathering.

Kevin Cornish, owner of KC’s Rib Shack in Manchester, wasn’t brought up on any particular style of barbecue, “unless you can call burnt Kraft original BBQ sauce on chicken a style,” Cornish says jokingly in an email.

But he got hooked on barbecue after reading a story about All American Bar-Be-Que in Putney, Vt.

“I’ll never forget pulling up and seeing Curtis (the chef) outside under a tin roof, cooking ribs and chicken on a chain link fence that had been stretched across a 300-gallon oil drum that had been cut in half — the kind you would find in the basement of your house,” says Cornish, whose restaurant has been a perennial Best of NH readers’ pick winner for more than two decades.

To baste his meat, Curtis used a floor mop dipped in barbecue sauce from a bucket, proving that anything is possible in the world of barbecue.

“I loved the food and the aura that surrounds BBQ. I returned home from Vermont that day with a newfound passion for barbecue,” Cornish says.

As Cornish sees it, barbecue is simply taking meat that’s normally considered tough, and cooking it at a low temperature over a long period of time to make that meat delicious and mouth-watering.

The food at KC’s Rib Shack was borne from years of barbecue research and perfecting his own style, influenced by several of the most common barbecue styles in the U.S. His beef brisket is Texas-style and his pulled pork is North Carolina style. Their dry-rubbed spare ribs, a customer favorite, are made Memphis-style. For those extra hungry for barbecue, their QQ Pladda is made with four different meats, two sides and cornbread, and serves up to three people.

If you’re new to barbecue, Cornish says not to worry — just focus on the essential ingredients: salt, pepper, meat and wood.

Those two spices play a big role in the savory dish.

“I can make pretty much any piece of meat taste great with just salt and pepper. That’s what all the top BBQ joints in the country use. Basically salt, pepper and maybe a little garlic, but that’s it,” says Cornish.

The cooking process is another vital component.

“The magic comes in the slow cooking over low heat. I tell people just starting out to try a pork butt. Keep the temp between 225 and 250 and cook for about 12 hours for an 8-pound roast. Cook until the internal temperature of the roast is about 205 degrees. Let that cool off a little bit and it will literally fall apart in your fingers,” says Cornish.

If you don’t have a smoker or other type of barbecue cooker, that’s OK too. A gas grill can work just fine.

“You can even take foil packs of damp wood chips and toss them on top of the burner to create some smoke, but I used to experiment cooking BBQ with my gas grill all the time back in the day,” he says.

Regardless, the temperature should be kept below 250 degrees.

“I would regulate the temperature with only one of the burners and put the food on the other half away from the direct heat. Put a small oven thermometer in the gas grill next to where your meat is to keep an eye on the temp,” Cornish advises.

No barbecue would be complete without a generous helping of sides like creamy macaroni salad, cool, crisp, tangy coleslaw, sweet corn on the cob, soft, moist cornbread, or any other side that tickles your fancy. Cornish’s coleslaw recipe includes shredded cabbage, dry mustard, sugar, mayo, cider vinegar, onion powder and a few more spices. Blend until smooth and refrigerate.

KC’s Rib Shack Dry Rub for Spare Ribs

One rack of ribs1 tablespoon salt2 tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon ground cumin1 tablespoon ground black pepper1 tablespoon chili powder2 tablespoons paprika

Sprinkle over ribs, shaking off excess. Cook at 250˚ for about three hours, or until tender when you twist between the third and fourth biggest rib. I take my fingers and push up on one and down on the other. The two should push away from each other with ease. Add sauce if you want and cook for another five or 10 minutes or eat them just how they are with maybe some sauce at the table.

KC’s Rib Shack Cole Slaw

Two bags of coleslaw mix1 cup mayo2 tablespoons sour cream2 tablespoons white sugar2 tablespoons cider vinegar¼ tablespoon dry mustard¼ tablespoon celery salt½ tablespoon black pepper½ tablespoon onion powder

Recipes courtesy Kevin Cornish, KC’s Rib Shack