8 minute read
Par for the Course
Par for the Course
Hit the links for fabulous food
By Crystal Ward Kent
Some of the best dining in New Hampshire isn’t at trendy downtown restaurants but out on the golf links, where views of rolling greens add to the ambiance. Here are three establishments worth experiencing even before the snow melts.
Aces at Beaver Meadow in Concord
People have been flocking to Beaver Meadow Golf Club since the 1890s, when the first nine holes of the historic course were constructed (an additional nine would be added in 1968). Today, the lovely 18-hole venue brings a touch of nature to the state’s Capital City. Guests enjoy the facilities year-round, coming in winter to cross-country ski, skate and experience the outdoors. Aces, their popular restaurant, is open all year, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. In summer, guests relax on the patio overlooking the lush course.
Chef/owner Kelly O’Connor takes pride in the fact that everything at Aces is prepared in-house. The fare, which is classic pub food with a twist, features visitor favorites such as steak-and-cheese sandwiches, pulled pork and Cubans. O’Connor buys top-grade steak that she shaves in-house; she also does hand-cut fries, her own pulled pork, and makes pestos and sauces on offer.
“When you start with the best quality and make things yourself, it transforms the dish,” she says. “Even simple dishes are elevated when extra care is given. Our steak and cheese is classic, because the steak melts in your mouth — it’s not from frozen; we serve it with cheese, peppers and onions on a bulkie roll, and it’s a bestseller.”
O’Connor also brings Asian and South American influences to her menu, such as her Brussels sprouts, an “earthy, spicy, sweet” dish prepared using her house spice mixture with notes of coffee, chili and brown sugar. The sprouts are further enhanced with a garlic tahini aioli, then topped with bacon and parmesan cheese.
Also flying out the door is the Cuban, made with O’Connor’s pulled pork, sliced turkey, ham, Swiss cheese, house pickles and mustard on a bulkie roll, all flattened into a tasty combo on the hot press.
Among the breakfast faves are The Rooster, an O’Connor creation featuring fried chicken, eggs and bacon with a maple chipotle aioli on a brioche bun. O’Connor guarantees that this tasty combo will start your day off right.
Aces partners with Flag Hill Winery in Lee for spirits such as whiskeys and bourbons, and also features some of their custom craft cocktails, including the Flag Hill Margarita with cranberry, blueberry or raspberry liqueur, and the NH maple old-fashioned with Flag Hill Maple Bourbon, brown sugar syrup, orange, cherry and bitters.
For more information, call (603) 715-2187.
Greenside at Lochmere Country Club in Tilton
One could say that Greenside’s future changed with a chance encounter. David Fraser, chef and now co-owner, happened to be driving in Tilton when he saw the facility’s “For Lease” sign. The Greenside had been closed for two years, and Fraser was intrigued by the property’s potential. After many meetings and much planning, he came on board as chef and part-owner. The Greenside reopened and is now one of the most popular venues in the Lakes Region, serving guests and the community year-round.
Fraser changes the menu seasonally, and while the offerings present a fine-dining experience, the ambiance is casual with a come-as-you-are vibe. The combination has proved highly successful, with people eager to dine out.
Guest favorites include the day-boat scallops which are pan-seared, served with smashed hush puppies, honey bourbon bacon jam, chipotle baby carrots and crispy shallots; and the 14-ounce ribeye, which is chargrilled, topped with a roasted garlic and thyme compound butter and served with a fingerling potato, caramelized onion and asparagus hash.
“People didn’t expect to find this kind of menu here,” says Fraser, who was chosen Best Chef in NH through the New Hampshire Union Leader’s People’s Choice vote. “They have been blown away by the food. They wanted fine dining, but didn’t want to dress up or be in a stuffy environment. At Greenside, you can bring the kids, relax and have a good time. It’s a friendly atmosphere.”
Another must-try is the butternut chicken, which Fraser says, “Can never come off the menu — there would be a revolt.” It features a grilled chicken breast served over butternut squash ravioli in a brown butter sage maple cream sauce with roasted butternut squash, baby spinach and prosciutto.
Fraser feels strongly that being partly chef-owned makes a difference. “We are very focused on quality in every aspect. Nothing leaves the kitchen that isn’t perfect.”
Greenside also works to keep things lively, so guests have multiple reasons for returning. “We offer specials such as 25 percent off the entire menu on Sundays, and Surf ’n Turf on Saturdays, plus Italian Night, and Fish Fry Fridays,” says Fraser. “We also make things fun by having theme nights, such as Eighties Night, where we went all out with ’80s food, drinks, décor and music. People loved it.”
Greenside Restaurant will unveil a major expansion this year with a new lounge area, bar and outside pavilion, all of which will greatly expand seating options.
For more information, call (603) 528-7888 or visit greensideatlochmere.com
Prime at Sky Meadow in Nashua
While famous for its splendid cuts of beef, the team at Prime is quick to emphasize that this is not your average steakhouse. “Our steak menu is outstanding, but we are also known for our seafood, sushi and other offerings,” says owner Rob Parsons. “Everything we serve is top-notch.” Parsons also notes that Prime is a “fine-dining restaurant that happens to be a country club. We are a premier dining experience that guests seek out whether they golf or not.”
Prime is open year-round for brunch and dinner, and Felix Albano, general manager, feels they can “go head-to-head” with any steakhouse in Boston. They start with the highest grades of beef with everything hand-cut in-house. Among the most popular offerings are the 8-ounce filet and the 16-ounce rib-eye. The menu is à la carte, and the abundant side offerings include mashed potatoes (add bleu cheese or fresh horseradish if you like), hand-cut fries, mac ’n cheese, wild mushrooms, grilled artichokes and more. Sides are offered family style, so guests can select and share.
But steak is only part of the menu: crabcakes, clam chowder, sea bass, pan-seared scallops and favorites like lobster royale and lamb chops are also on tap. The decadent lobster royale features lobster tail, a risotto cake, asparagus and lobster bisque. Few restaurants offer lamb chops these days, but at Prime they are a bestseller. Their chops are marinated in a curry blend, seasoned with salt and pepper, then served with a house-made balsamic reduction and a house-made chimichurri.
Prime serves a core menu year-round, but Chef Shawn Harris brings in fresh dishes seasonally. Complementing Harris’ efforts are those of their own pastry chef, who creates all desserts in-house, including tiramisu and a hot chocolate crème brûlée. The restaurant is known for its wine list, winning a Wine Spectator award, and also for its hand-crafted cocktails. (A winter favorite was the Smokey Maple Meadow, which featured maple syrup bourbon, maple bacon and maple wood chips with all products coming from New Hampshire providers.)
“We are also bringing back the classic cocktails, like whiskey sours and sloe gin fizz,” Parsons says. “When they are made right, with real ingredients — not mixes — they taste amazing, and are fantastic with our dishes.”
Sky Meadow has a patio restaurant for outdoor dining which is known for its excellent sushi menu, and the Oak Room, a cozy place for enjoying classic pub fare.
The recently renovated club offers a wealth of services beyond golf including pickleball, swimming, billiards and a game room with bowling.
For more information, contact Sky Meadow at (603) 888-9000 or visit skymeadow.com.
