What’s Cookin’

p Puddle Dock Restaurant, next to historic Strawbery

Banke, offers “modern

Colonial fare.”

This page: Devils on Horseback is feta-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon with a sherry reduction. Next page: Smoked Salmon Rarebit features salmon roe, beer-cheese sauce, cheddar, shaved onion and avocado on sourdough toast.

What ’ s THREE RESTAURANTS. THREE REGIONS. THREE FOOD CONNOISSEURS. Cookin’

PART 1 GREAT FOOD DESTINATIONS : With great eateries popping up across the state, there’s always a new place to experience. Even the well-established food and drink spots like to offer something new, making a return visit feel like it’s the first time. To help you discover what’s new around our great state, we’ve recruited Discover and celebrate what’s new and exciting on our state’s three of our favorite food writers on the cuisine beat to recommend some new restaurants (or new offerings from old favorites) designed to both satisfy your appetite for dinner and inspire your appetite for adventure on the road to fine (and fun) dining. cuisine scene We asked our reviewers to look high and low (and east and west) in New Hampshire for their subjects, and each of these “destinations” can be a new starting point for your own quest — so let us know what you find. We’ll continue this series for our next two issues and will also continue to compile our guide to what’s new and exciting in the online version of this story at nhmagazine.com.

Bon Appétit!

Lomo Saltado Skirt Steak served with white rice, peppers, onions, tomatoes and cilantro

GREAT FOOD DESTINATION / NORTH OF CONCORD:

El Mirador Restaurante Review by Rony Camille / Photography by Kendal J. Bush

Sangria Mexican mule, grapefruit paloma and traditional margarita with a salted rim next to a dish of fresh guacamole and tortilla chips

Chef Juan Pu (left) and Chef Andrés Pu pose outside their family restaurant at the Bethlehem Country Club. Located on the grounds of the historic Bethlehem Country Club golf course on Route 302, El Mirador is a new spot that’s serving both Latin American and American cuisine.

El Mirador, which translates to “the view,” is the brainchild of the Pu brothers, Chefs Juan and Andrés.

“It’s been my dream since a long time ago to open up a restaurant,” says Juan. “I didn’t expect it to happen this fast.” The Pus emigrated to the United States from Guatemala in 2004, and worked in various restaurants in Florida before Juan and his family relocated to New Hampshire to work for a now-defunct business in Franconia.

Sometimes success sneaks up on you. Juan says he wasn’t planning to open a brick-and-mortar business initially. In April, he and his brother launched North Country Daddy’s Grill out of a food truck based in Littleton. The truck grew so popular that the Bethlehem Country Club approached the brothers to take over the space that once housed the Putter’s Pub and El Mirador was born. “It’s always so busy there since they’ve opened,” says Kay Allen, who works at the town’s visitors center.

Once the restaurant opened in May, they quickly ramped up their offerings, such as Spanish paella, a dish with rice, and a variety of seafood toppings. Over the summer, they obtained their liquor license. With their full-bar offerings, you can order margaritas and even check out their sangria Mexican mule.

Juan says, as the weather gets colder, they’ll be changing their menu to offer hot Latin American favorites, like tamales, in their unique style.

GREAT FOOD DESTINATION / THE SEACOAST:

Puddle Dock Restaurant Review by Crystal Ward Kent / Photography by Kendal J. Bush

Located next to historic Strawbery Banke, Puddle Dock Restaurant offers “modern Colonial fare” in a building rich with character. According to owner Ryan Lent, the 1960s building was initially constructed for the New York World’s Fair as an example of a classic general store. “The beams are from a 1700s Dover farmhouse,” he explains. “Many of the other materials are vintage as well. Because it goes so well with the neighborhood, we have kept the décor understated, showcasing the beauty of this unique structure.”

The minimalist approach allows the artwork to stand out, and it highlights Portsmouth’s history. Over the bar is a famous painting of John Paul Jones’ ship “The Ranger,” which was built in Portsmouth while Jones stayed here. Classic lithographs of old Portsmouth, Fort Constitution and, most intriguing, photos of people from the original Puddle Dock neighborhood before it was Strawbery Banke also adorn the walls.

Lent says the cuisine is comfort food with a fine-dining spin. Their chef, Derek Clough, who was trained by Thomas Keller of Michelin Star fame, takes classic dishes to the next level, such as their chicken pot pie, which was an instant bestseller. Currently, guests are raving about the hearty Yorkshire pudding and campfire mussels (Maine mussels roasted in a cast-iron pan, served with mustard-garlic butter and toast), as well as desserts such as rich, rum-laced bread pudding and delicate blueberry and lemon pavlova — all of which are made from scratch. “The menu is inspired by Colonial and British classics,” he notes. “We look for ideas in 300-year-old cookbooks as well as New York sources. We make all of our own sauces and mayonnaise, and that makes a big difference when it come to flavor.”

The restaurant is committed to giving guests a relaxing night out, with the pacing, service and food quality inviting them to savor the evening as well as the food.

Lent, who grew up in Portsmouth, always dreamed of creating a restaurant that captured its essence. He feels that Puddle Dock, with its warm, timeless feel, has done that. “The response has been overwhelmingly positive” he smiles. “We are excited for what’s to come.”

Puddle Dock Restaurant

66 Marcy St., Portsmouth / (603) 373-8192 thepuddledock.com Khy Johnson at work in the loft dining space, which overlooks the dining area and bar

Executive Chef Derek Clough gets creative

Bartender Steve Ihde serves a Violet Skies, a concoction of Empress gin, Crème de Violette, lemon and maraschino liqueur.

Chef Adán Morales of Granita with a handsome antipasti board of cured meats and local cheeses

GREAT FOOD DESTINATION / GREATER NASHUA AREA:

Granita Enoteca Review and photography by Susan Laughlin

Burrata with maple-roasted delicata squash, pancetta and fried sage

Archway Farm pork chop with roasted apples, squash, Brussels sprouts and cider glaze Once again, find a passion for Italy in Keene’s Railroad Square. The former Nicola’s space was updated in 2021 with a dedicated new entrance on the west side, so no more circling the building twice to find the door. The Tuscan look with bright yellows in the interior has been replaced with a clean and modern vibe, featuring warm tones of beige in the seating with black tablecloths for accents — very classy.

The new name, Granita Enoteca, implies a wine bar. The space now includes a glass-walled wine room, a big feature, as they offer more than 3,000 bottles and have been lauded by Wine Spectator. A few half-walls were removed to open the dining area, and beautiful banquette seating in the bar seems the perfect spot to mingle with a few friends.

The cuisine remains Italian but maybe less rustic this time. Chef Adán Morales has been brought in from Pennsylvania where he was chef de cuisine at the upscale Nemacolin Woodlands Resort. At Granita, he is focusing on Italian dishes made with quality ingredients, and made even more enjoyable with his expert plating techniques. After all, you eat with your eyes first.

As for preparation, when asked about his style, Chef Adán replies, “Keep it simple, but use the best ingredients.” Fall dishes include a stunning antipasti board featuring local cheeses, cured meats and leaf-shaped pasta cut and fried for accent. The Caesar salad is served in a Parmesan tuile set on a board along with a tiny jar of dressing and chunks of Parmigiana-Reggiano. All pastas are made in-house and the rigatoni is served with a bright red pomodoro sauce. Cider-brined pork from Archway Farm is accompanied by roasted apples, squash, Brussels sprouts and finished with an apple cider glaze. Chef Adán also uses local mushroom grower Dave Wichland’s products to make a mushroom gnocchi and more.

Other menu items range from the familiar, such as a chicken Parmigiana, to the more urbane, including squid ink linguine and Mediterranean octopus. There’s something for everyone and each dish has suggested wines for accompaniment. As wine selection is a big part of the ethos here along with the Italian sensibility, a series of six-course wine dinners are planned for the coming season, including a Thanksgiving Feast on November 22 and the Taste of Milan on December 20.

Granita is a great find, a place to sip a nice wine — maybe in those plush banquettes in the bar — and savor the food while soaking in the total experience. You are out of the house. Enjoy!

NEW AND EXCITING: SHORT TAKES

Recommendations by Susan Laughlin

In spite of the challenges presented by the COVID pandemic, a hearty number of restaurants opened and eventually flourished, finding ways to live free and prosper. From a serious commitment to take-out to outdoor dining to limiting hours and social distancing, each found a way to still serve the public. Now, it’s your turn to get off the couch and dine out. Yes, many doors are open, but the latest hurdle is finding staff to maintain service. Get more details on Facebook for days and hours open, and please be patient and courteous. All are doing their best.

Nashua Area

Food at Axel’s Throw House in Nashua is mostly snacks, but if you have a hankering to toss an axe, this is the place. No, you are not aiming at a simple straw target. This state-of-the-art lounge in Nashua offers 15 throwing lanes and your choice of digitally projected zombies, ducks and more to hone your skills without even harming a pixel. Mondays and Tuesdays are reserved for private bookings. axelsthrowhouse.com

Bellissimo Italian Steakhouse opened in 2022 in the former Fratello’s on Main Street. They specialize in Italian dishes while their signature steak filet is served on a hot stone. There is entertainment Thursday through Saturday. bellissimoitalian.com

Manchester Area

bluAqua Restrobar has been around for almost 10 years in one form or another. The first was the location in Salzburg Square in Amherst, where the chef was Chris Noble. After a brief stint in Nashua, the Nashua location closed. Finally, after many delays, the bluAqua Restrobar opened on Elm Street in Manchester in January 2020. Not the best timing, but the spot has survived and thrived with the help of Chef Noble’s Southern-inspired cooking, special events, wine dinners, entertainment offerings and one very special fish tank. bluaquarestrobar.com

New Roots opened in Manchester in late 2020 offering vegan meals with a delivery service. newrootsmeals.com

The Enrights closed their Roots Café in Hooksett at Robie’s Country Store but are now running their Roots Local Food Truck at Ordione State Park in-season and a café in the Newmarket mills in the off-season. rootslocalfood.com

Big Kahuna Café in Merrimack has opened a smokehouse this summer in Hooksett on Hooksett Road near the Shooters Outpost, offering smoked meat dishes and breakfast items. nhkahuna.com

West

Mama McDonough’s Irish Pub moved from their Hillsborough location to the Dillant-Hopkins Airport in Keene in July of 2021. They’re still offering their hearty pub fare along with trivia, entertainment and karaoke. Also, their Irish-inspired breakfasts are served daily instead of just weekends. Watch the planes land while enjoying their luscious burgers and homemade desserts. Facebook Watkins Inn & Tavern in Walpole opened last year by partners Eric Brandolini and CJ Lederman. They renovated a historic 1788 property with an adjoining golf course. The tavern, complete with a picture-window view of the course, offers a nice array of craft beers along with a short but sweet list of bites. Find regular entertainment in the tavern and occasional events on the golf course, including night golf and snow activities in winter. watkinstavern.com

Piedra Fina, a Latin-inspired eatery in Marlborough, fell victim to the COVID crisis in spring of 2020. Now, that architecturally interesting building hosts The Smoking Trout with a gastropub-style menu featuring burgers, steak frites, poutine and Faroe Island salmon, but no trout. It doesn’t pass the chef’s muster as a sustainable fish. Facebook

Downtown Keene now has a seafood restaurant. The Laughing Gull Seafood & Burger Bar opened recently, offering fresh and fried seafood, oysters and even a lobster and clam pizza. There are also smash burgers for the seafood-phobic. Facebook

The Root opened about a year ago in the former home of Kindred Spirits in Temple on Route 101A. It was remodeled to add more light. The barn-like space contains an area for children to play while their parents eat, a large table to encourage community, a small produce market, and local offerings of bread. The café is run by Christie Reed, former owner of the Hilltop Café in Wilton. She brings her homemade croissants and vegan baked goods, and is helped by her children Maija and Kaiden Massey. theroottemple.com The Dublin Road Taproom & Eatery at the Shattuck Golf Course in Jaffrey opened in spring of 2020 just as the pandemic heated up. They managed to steam through the year with great offerings on 24 draft lines and memorable pub food. Now,

Vital Provisions

find all that along with great views of the course and Mt. Monadnock beyond. In the winter, they groom the course for crosscountry skiing, making the deck the best spot to heat up in the sun and warm up with a cold beer in hand. shattuckgolf.com/ the-taproom In Peterborough, Vital Provisions opened this spring offering gluten- and dairy-free, “nutrient-dense” sandwiches (both vegan and non-vegan), açaí bowls, salads with organic veg and a creative, ever-changing list of tasty smoothies, including a peach cobbler with roasted peaches this past August. vitalprovisionsnh.com The Milford Oval now has Station 101 in a former towing station offering a great selection of craft beers on tap and in cans in a ’50s-gas-station vibe. The Riverhouse, also on the Oval, known for their great breakfasts and burgers, has moved to the former pizza place and a new restaurant is planing a move into their old spot.

Concord

In Concord, Col’s Kitchen opened in 2020 in the former Willows Plant-Based Eatery but recently underwent a small renovation to add more seating. This menu is strictly plant-based too, and provides vegans and adventurous eaters a wider selection of choices, from cauliflower wings to chickpeas of the sea. colsplantbased.com

North

The Littleton Freehouse Taproom & Eatery

is bringing them in with creative offerings, including fries served with a choice of eight toppings, duck Reuben sandwiches, an Argentine power bowl in addition to burgers and salads. littletonfreehouse.com

Lakes Region

A trio of friends — Bob Manley, Ken Hardcastle and Chuck Lawrence — at Hermit Woods Winery & Eatery on Main Street in Meredith have opened a full-scale restaurant in the space on the second floor. Called The Loft, it also doubles as an event venue. Previously, a deli-space provided snacks for wine tasters in the tasting room, the deck and a garden spot in this charming facility. The winery specializes in award-winning fruit wines fermented with local fruits and berries. hermitwoods.com

Americus

East

Amy LaBelle of LaBelle Winery in Amherst went big again, opening a new restaurant, Americus, and a new function space in the former Brookstone event facility in Derry. There’s plenty to do here, including 9-hole golf, miniature golf, marketplace and a tasting room. Find a host of events planned throughout the year, including cooking lessons, tribute bands and comedians. November through January, pathways throughout the golf links are lit for seasonal strolls. labellewinery.com Hare of the Dawg Bar & Grill opened in January 2022 in downtown Derry. The pub serves pizzas and typical pub food, including tater tots along with creative salads and daily specials like smothered steak tips. Dogs are welcome to join their masters for sidewalk dining. hareofthedawgnh.com In Exeter, Kath Gallant sold Blue Moon Evolution this past spring to Jay McSharry, where he opened another Street, featuring street food from around the world. He purchased Street 360 in Portsmouth several years ago and kept a similar menu at that popular eatery. streetfood360.com

Anatolia Mediterranean Restaurant

opened in Somersworth offering doner kebab, hummus, tabouli and much more Turkish fare. Oh, yes, and there’s bellydancing on Thursdays. anatolianh.com Entrepreneur Joe Faro of Tuscan Kitchen has just about completed his recasting of the former Rockingham horseracing grounds in Salem into a live, dine, shop, play and work environment called Tuscan Village. The flagship Tuscan Kitchen opened in the midst of the pandemic, and it is a sight to behold with amazing upscale architecture and a lawn/patio for games, fire pits and more. Other eateries on the property include Crumbl Cookies, Chipotle, The Beach Plum, Starbucks and Chickfil-A. Yet to open is the Artisan Hotel with rooftop dining. Oh, and one more. Faro also opened Toscana Italian Chophouse & Wine Bar, a steakhouse concept featuring signature chops in downtown Portsmouth in the fall of 2021.

Troy’s Fresh Kitchen and Juice Bar

opened in Londonderry, providing healthy lunch items from grain bowls to juice shots to breakfast scrambles. troysfreshkitchen.com Pepper’s Landing Lobster Co., a small Maine-based chain, has opened in Rochester. They focus on fresh, locally sourced seafood, including lobster and lobster rolls served five ways.

Pepper’s Landing Lobster Co.