C H A M P A N E R I
A C C R E D I T E D
H A I R & M A K E U P
Tr a i n i n g Guide
M C - P r o f e s s i o n a l
H M U A
L I M I T E D
C O N T E N TS
02
T he G r o w nu p St uf f
04
37
A ll A b out T he Sk i n
58
A ll A b out Mani pul ati ng
75
A ll A b out Mak eu p
146
A ll A b out Hai r
161
T he Ma k eu p Lo ok s
193
T he Ha i r s t yl e Lo ok s
203
A ll A b out T he Bu s i ne s s
227
A ll A b out T he St a rt
A ll A b out T he A d d it i on s
The G rownup Stuff
CHAPTER
01
NOT FOR RESALE Our digital products (such as PDF files, eBooks, videos & online content) are subject to copyright protection. Each product is sold to a single user only. Customers are not allowed to share, distribute, copy &/or transfer the product/s to any third-party person. In general, Perfecting School encr ypt &/or stamp license details ( potentially i n c l u d i n g t h e n a m e o f t h e c u s t o m e r, a d d r e s s e t c . ) o n i t s d i g i t a l p r o d u c t s f o r a d d i tional safety. THE PERFECT PDF READER If you want to read the guide on a smartphone or tablet, we recommend you to use a PDF reader where you can swipe left and right to flick the pages like a real book! Some of these PDF readers are Amazon Kindle, Apple iBook's... COPYRIGHTS © 2020 BY MC -PROFESSIONAL HMUA LIMITED COPYRIGHTS © MC -PROFESSIONAL HMUA LIMITED. All rights reser ved worldwide. All rights reserved. No part of this course shall be reproduced, copied, transmitted, sold in whole or in part, changed in any format, or used in any way other than i t s i n t e n d e d u s e w i t h o u t t h e p r i o r w r i t t e n c o n s e n t f r o m t h e a u t h o r. All sales are final, no refunds or returns.
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D I S C L A I M E R – P L E A S E R E A D C A R E F U L LY T h e a u t h o r o f t h i s c o u r s e i s a s e l f - t a u g h t m u l t i - a w a r d - w i n n i n g h a i r, m a k e u p & beauty expert. All suggestions, information (the information herein whose term shall include but shall not be limited to any advice mentioned throughout the course) & tips on beauty, hair & makeup included in this course were successful on a personal level. Whilst the author has made endeavours to ensure that the content provided is comprehensive, the author & the MC -Professional HMUA company do not warrant or represent its accuracy, completeness or applicability. The information contained in this course is solely intended for educational & informational purposes. The author and the MC -Professional HMUA company accept no responsibility for any liability, injury, loss, or consequence, personal or otherwise, or any other particular outcome or result which may arise as a consequence, directly or indirectly, from the use & application of any of the contents of this course. If you wish to put the information from this course into practice, you are doing this at your own risk & must take responsibility for your own actions & their results. If you are aware of any health, skin or eye conditions that could interfere with the application of the information from this course, you should consult your health care provider to find out if the information is suitable for you. The author & the MC -Professional HMUA company are not liable for any individual reactions, allergies or medical conditions resulting from the use of any particular beauty, hair & m a k e u p p r o d u c t o r t o o l s . We r e c o m m e n d t h a t y o u r e a d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t o f y o u r beauty, hair & makeup products of choice & follow the instructions on the package carefully before using them. In any case, before actively applying the information, we strongly advise consulting your health care provider to reduce the risk of any m e d i c a l , s k i n o r e y e r e a c t i o n s o r a l l e r g i e s . We s t r o n g l y r e c o m m e n d f o l l o w i n g hygiene practice when it comes to storing your beauty, hair & makeup products or sanitising your beauty, hair & makeup tools where applicable. The information provided in this course is based purely on beauty, hair & makeup t i p s & s u g g e s t i o n s & r e p r e s e n t s t h e i d e a s o f t h e a u t h o r, t h e r e f o r e i t m a y n o t b e suitable for ever yone. For production reasons, the author is the sole executer of the looks presented in this course. The purpose of this course is to present an array of looks from several styles (techniques) & to encourage the student to experiment with as many looks as possible. The author is not liable for any particular result or outcome when it comes to the reproduction of the looks. Results may vary from those presented in this course based on beauty, hair & makeup products & tools used, level of expertise & other factors. Everyone is unique & has their own features & eye shape. Our goal is to inspire our readers to try out several styles & to decide by themselves what look or style fits their unique features best. The majority of the looks come with variations. The variations are meant to present how every look can be replicated with any colour of choice that can better suit a s p e c i f i c s k i n t o n e o r t h e s t u d e n t ’ s p r e f e r e n c e s . We c e l e b r a t e d i v e r s i t y & i n c l u s i v i t y & will make endeavours to present diverse content in our social media &/or platform when applicable.
E N D
The Grownup Stuff
O F
C H A PT E R
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CHAPTER
02
A l l A b out T he S t a rt A B O U T
U S
We w a n t t o c h a n g e p e o p l e ’ s l i v e s ; w e w a n t t o a l l o w a l l o u r s t u d e n t s t o b r i n g out the best in themselves & to have the potential to become an industry leading artist. We a r e c o n s t a n t l y e v o l v i n g o u r t e c h n i q u e s , w e s t r i v e f o r g r e a t n e s s , w e thrive off results. Our students are walking accomplishments of our succ e s s . We e n s u r e w e s i m p l i f y o u r s t e p s & w e b r e a k d o w n o u r a p p l i c a t i o n & technique so that our students, despite their knowledge & skill leave with the highest standards of application and products that we use, making them powerful in any makeup field. We t e a c h o t h e r s t o b e c o m e a m a z i n g h a i r & m a k e u p a r t i s t , g i v e t h e m t h e c o n fidence to live their dream as a boss babe. We a r e M C - P r o f e s s i o n a l H M U A a c a d e m y p a g e 04
H I S T O R Y
INTRODUCTION TO MC -PROFESSIONAL HMUA ACADEMY My passion for makeup started from a very young age and continued to grow into my adult years. Rather than follow my passion, I diverted my focus and completed my Degree and Masters in IT Service Management. After 6 ½ years as a highly qualified consultant, I still had a burning desire to become a professional hair and makeup artist. 2006 I finally made the jump and enrolled myself onto a makeup school – achieving a diploma in Makeup Artistry. And finally, YES, the brand was b o r n a n d e s t a b l i s h e d f o c u s i n g o n e d i t o r i a l a n d b r i d a l m a k e u p . L a t e r t h a t y e a r, I was head-hunted by MAC cosmetics to join the team in 2007. Whilst working p a r t - t i m e f o r M A C C o s m e t i c s – a s a n a r t i s t a n d p r o d u c t s p e c i a l i s t / t r a i n e r, t h e MC -Professional HMUA brand continued to grow from strength to strength allowing us to expanded our service portfolio to focus additionally on non-bridal clientele as well as bridal. In the 14 years (as of 2020), I have on average catered to 700 plus brides, 2000 plus non-bridal and the brand is stronger than it’s ever been. Our last s e r v i c e a d d i t i o n w a s t h e a c a d e m y w h e r e y o u ’d l e a r n h a i r , m a k e u p a n d b u s i n e s s from a new perspective, which is not taught anywhere else and from real makeup experience.
C O U R S E
S T R U C T U R E
The course is broken down into key units, which we will be jumping in and out of sections throughout the teaching. The main chapters will be makeup, hair and business. Each educational section will cover all you need to know from the basics to advancing your skills and its techniques, with an array of comprehensive informat i o n . W h e t h e r o r n o t y o u a r e a b e g i n n e r, t h e r e a r e p l e n t y o f t i p s a n d f u n f a c t s t o k e e p y o u e n t e r t a i n e d . We l c o m e t o t h e n e w e r a o f c l a s s r o o m t e a c h i n g ! • – – –
The objectives of this course; Carry out good structured hair and makeup application Understand the key elements to build a new successful business Ability to complete hair and makeup applications, to suit all clientele types
• To g e t t h e m o s t o u t o f t h e c o u r s e
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Listen, Ask & Have fun!
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H Y G I E N E Maintaining high standards of hygiene is vital to prevent the risks of cross c o n t a m i n a t i o n . W h e t h e r i t ' s f r o m y o u r s e l f, o t h e r c l i e n t s o r d i r t y t o o l s , fungi, viruses, parasites and bacteria can easily spread if you don't do your bit to put a stop to them. • Hygiene and Sampling procedures - Non-Aqueous based products (Cream blushers, cream/gel liners, cream-based foundations, gloss, lipsticks, cream-based concealers, cream/gel-based skin care products) • Cream blushers / cream-based foundations and concealers / gel liners - Sanitise a petri dish with hygienic cleanser and allow to dry. - Wipe the dispensing tip or surface of the product with a clean tissue and discard the tissue. - Tr a n s f e r t h e p r o d u c t t o t h e p e t r i d i s h . A p p l y t h e p r o d u c t u s i n g a s a n i t i s e d tool or disposable applicator and discard when you are finished. –Or • Yo u m a y u s e y o u r s a n i t i s e d f i n g e r s t o a p p l y t h e p r o d u c t t o a l l a r e a s o f the skin expect for the eye area. Before using this alternative, the following steps must be taken • Ask permission from the client and get agreement that applying products with your finger is okay with them • Sanitise your hands thoroughly with a hand sanitising product • Fingernails must be kept short and trimmed and thoroughly clean • No jewellery can be worn on the finger • No scented products should be put on fingers before application • Fingers cannot be used for product application close to the eye.
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• LIPSTICKS - Swivel up products (lipsticks) spray one or two pumps of hygiene cleanser onto a clean tissue and wipe the bullet with a tissue - Apply product to the customers with a sanitised tool or disposable applicator - When finished, sanitise the bullet once more by spraying one or two pumps of hygienic cleanser onto a clean tissue and wiping the bullet with this tissue - Properly dispose of tissue and disposable applicator or re-sanitise used tools • LIP-GLOSS - Dip the appropriate applicator into the vial of product and pull it through the wiper system or pick up the product from the container using the appropriate disposable applicator - Discard the disposable applicator after the product has been applied. Once a disposable wand has been placed into the vial, it must not be reint r o d u c e d i n t o t h e c o n t a i n e r. I f a d d i t i o n a l p r o d u c t i s r e q u i r e d , u s e a n e w disposable wand • PENCILS - Sanitise a pencil sharpener using a clean cotton swab or cotton pad saturated with hygienic cleanser and sharpen the pencil with the sanitised pencil sharpener - Spray one or two pump of hygiene cleanser onto a clean tissue and wipe the pencil. Then wipe the pencil with a clean tissue to dry it and apply on the client - Spray one or two pumps of hygienic cleaner onto a clean tissue and wipe the pencil after you’ve finished using it • PRESSED & LOOSE POWDERS - Wipe the surface of the pressed powder with a clean tissue, cotton ball or pad - U s i n g a s a n i t i s e d a p p l i c a t o r ( c l e a n s p o n g e , p u f f, b r u s h o r c o t t o n s w a b ) t o dip into the product - Minimise the number of times you dip into the original product - After the sampling is complete, wipe the surface with a clean tissue, cotton ball or pad to remove the layer of powder that could have been contaminated to prepare it for future use
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F R E Q U E N T LY A S K E D Q U E S T I O N S
1. How do you kill bacteria on makeup? A N S W E R - Yo u c a n s a n i t i z e m a k e u p w i t h a s p r a y bottle filled with isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore (do not use ethyl alcohol). I sanitize my makeup kit, products, tools, and bags with Beauty So Clean. They have makeup sprays and towelettes that kill germs on contact without damaging your makeup, and without any fumes.
2. How long can bacteria live on makeup? ANSWER - It depends on the type of bacteria, and the type of makeup, and whether or not the makeup has preservatives. If the bacteria run out of food, they'll probably be viable anywhere from a couple hours to a few weeks. If the makeup IS the food, they can potentially stay there indefinitely, if it is damp enough.
3. Can you sanitize makeup? A N S W E R - Yo u c a n s a n i t i z e m a k e u p w i t h a s p r a y bottle filled with isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore (do not use ethyl alcohol). I sanitize my makeup kit, products, tools, and bags with Beauty So Clean. They have makeup sprays and towelettes that kill germs on contact without damaging your makeup, and without any fumes
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D I D
Y O U
K N O W ?
The researchers' tests revealed that about 70–90% of all these products were contaminated with bacteria and that beauty blenders were the worst offenders. Predominantly, the investigators found S. ... Beauty blenders also had the highest rate of contamination with fungi, at 56.96%. Bacteria is just one type of icky thing. It doesn't grow in super dry conditions. But yeast and mould can grow with very little moisture. Those are w h a t y o u n e e d t o b e c o n c e r n e d a b o u t f o r p o w d e r. A s p a r t o f g o o d p r a c t i c e , all products must be disinfected after each use with isopropyl alcohol.
E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
Does makeup expire if not opened? Makeup can go bad even before the expiration date once it's been opened. C a s e i n p o i n t : m a s c a r a , w h i c h w e ' l l d i s c u s s a l i t t l e f u r t h e r d o w n . H o w e v e r, when makeup has been stowed away, unopened, it can last anywhere from one to three years after the expiration date. How do makeup artists sanitize their makeup? All palettes and powder products are sprayed with alcohol. Loose powder is put into a separate dish before picking up product with my brush. After use, all brushes are cleansed with a makeup brush cleanser and then sanitized with 70% alcohol. Why is expired makeup bad? Yo u r e x p i r e d m a k e u p c a n a l s o s t a r t t o h a r b o u r b a c t e r i a . W h e n i t c o m e s t o your clients skin, this can mean irritation and bumps that look like acne. And when it comes to your eyes, this bacteria build-up can actually cause infections and pink eye. As for lipstick, using an expired one can cause swelling.
T I P S
A N D
T E C H N I Q U E S
First impressions count A dirty kit = dirty makeup artist/counter/beauty therapist/treatment room. Making sure basic equipment is clean and 100% sanitised will go a long way to setting the right tone for your work. Hygiene ritual wipe in/wipe out Sanitise, clean and wipe all tools and products. Do this in front of your client to make sure they KNOW you are hygienic and recognise the importance of their health and safety.
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Hands up! Did you sanitise your hands first? 80% of germs are transferred by hands, s o d o n’ t c o m p r o m i s e y o u r c l e a n k i t a n d t o o l s b y s i m p l y n o t s a n i t i s i n g y o u r hands. If in doubt… sample that out! Always decant products into clean palettes, tissues or onto clean hands. This means you will not be tempted to double dip back in to the original products. Pro brushes and applicators Never blow onto brushes and applicators – gently tap away any excess product instead. Also, clean brushes between clients and at the end of every day. Wa v e a c l e a n w a n d o r a p p l i c a t o r Cut off your mascara wand/lip and eyeliner applicators upon purchase to remind you not to contaminate through double dipping. Use a disposable. Mono dipping moment No double dipping! “Double-dipping” means reloading the same mascara wand or makeup applicator by dipping it into the tube of product more than once and results in cross-contamination of both products and customers. Mono dip instead. Sharpen, sketch and sharpen Sanitize makeup pencils by sharpening them between clients and clean your sharpener each time too. Go latex-free Use latex-free sponges to avoid subjecting clients to potential allergic reactions. Looks count I f i t d o e s n’ t l o o k / s m e l l r i g h t , d o n’ t u s e i t . products.
Respect the shelf life of your
Ensure you’re insured D o n’ t u n d e r e s t i m a t e t h e i m p o r t a n c e o f i n s u r a n c e . A n d i t ’ s n o t j u s t p u b l i c liability that’s important. Make sure you’re covered for kit, money and l e g a l t o o . D o n’ t u n d e r e s t i m a t e t h e v a l u e t o y o u a s a p r o f e s s i o n a l o r y o u r business when it comes to supporting your training, experience and creativity with professional behaviour and that includes keeping you and your c l i e n t s s a f e a n d g e r m - f r e e a t a l l t i m e s . Tr e a t y o u r c l i e n t s h o w y o u w o u l d l i k e t o b e t r e a t e d y o u r s e l f.
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T O O L S
&
E Q U I P M E N T
The same way a painter is just as good as his/her brushes; makeup artists are only as good as the brushes they have. They are like painters, except that the face is the blank canvas. And anyone can tell you that makeup brushes can be extremely expensive. And if anything, you will probably need more than one set, as your business and clientele grow with bookings i.e. as highlighted in hygiene – all brushes are to be cleaned from one client to another so having a backup set while you wait for your previous set to dry. There are so many brushes on the market but remember expensive and branded are not always the best. During the course you’ll have access to work with different brands from high street to prestige brushes, and like shoes you may find a liking to some more than others – there really is no right or wrong answer!
F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
1. What's the difference between real/natural and synthetic makeup brushes? ANSWER - The difference between real and synthetic makeup brushes is the source from which the bound fibres of the brush head are made, Real or natural brush fibres are made from various animal furs and hairs. Synthetic brush fibres are made from nylon and other plastics.
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2. What key tools and equipment does a makeup artist need? ANSWER - Makeup brushes (two sets if possible) - Brush cleaner - Cosmetic spatulas and steel palettes - Disposable mascara and lip wands - Hair clips - False eyelashes and lash glue - Q-tips / cotton buds - Tw e e z e r s / S c i s s o r s - Makeup wipes - Sanitisers
3. Can paint brushes be used for makeup? A N S W E R - Ye s a b s o l u t e l y ! B e w a r e t h o u g h a s p a i n t b r u s h a r e f a r m o r e d i v e r s e when it comes to finish. Some are meant to leave a streaky finish and some are meant to absorb a lot of product like in watercolour brushes. I personally would use paint brushes for Special FX makeup i.e. creating scars or bloody flesh.
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D I D
Y O U
K N O W ?
Natural Makeup Brush Bristles Natural makeup brushes are usually made out of some type of animal hair such as horses, goats, boars, etc from the natural shedding. They are incredibly soft (since they are made of real hair) and feel absolutely amazing when applying makeup. Using a natural makeup brush can often feel like a blissful mini-massage for your skin! One downside to these amazingly s o f t b r u s h e s , s i n c e t h e y a r e m a d e o f n a t u r a l h a i r, t h e y h a v e m o r e t e n d e n c y to shed. I f y o u r c l i e n t i s a l l e r g i c t o c e r t a i n t y p e s o f a n i m a l h a i r, n a t u r a l b r u s h e s w i l l d e f i n i t e l y n o t b e i d e a l f o r t h e m . H o w e v e r, i f y o u a r e w o r k i n g w i t h s k i n that can be aggravated easily by synthetic bristles, natural makeup brushes would be your choice of use. The main reason natural makeup brushes are so widely used by popular beauty gurus and makeup artists is that they pick up and distribute pigment easier and more precisely than synthetic brushes. Natural brushes are absolutely amazing when it comes to powder makeup. They have pick up product in a way that synthetic brushes just c a n’ t e m u l a t e . T h e s e b r i s t l e s h a v e p o r e s t h a t g r a b o n t o p r o d u c t . N a t u r a l brushes may not be the absolute best when it comes to liquid or cream product because they will soak up the product in their pores. At the end of the day, they do a better job at general makeup application than synthetic brushes.
Synthetic Makeup Brush Bristles While natural makeup brushes might be more loved by many makeup and beauty gurus, we can certainly understand why synthetic makeup brushes have grown in popularity over the last few years. For starters, they are generally cheaper than natural makeup brushes. These brushes are often made of synthetic materials like polyester and nylon, which can be less harsh on those with animal allergies. Another major selling point for a lot of girls is that synthetic brushes are made of manmade materials, which means that they are typically vegan. T h e s e m a k e u p a n d m a k e u p t o o l s h a v e b e c o m e i n c r e a s i n g l y p o p u l a r. F o r many people, it’s just not an option to shop for products that use animal products of any kind. If this is important to you, synthetic brushes may be worth considering as an alternative to natural hair brushes. S y n t h e t i c b r u s h e s a r e a l s o WAY e a s i e r t o c l e a n t h a n n a t u r a l b r u s h e s , a n d d o n’ t d a m a g e n e a r l y a s e a s i l y. T h e y w i l l t a k e a l l o f t h e h e a v y u s e y o u c a n throw at them. These types of brushes tend to work best with liquid and c r e a m p r o d u c t s . T h e y, a d m i t t e d l y , d o n’ t p i c k u p p o w d e r p r o d u c t s q u i t e a s well as their natural haired counterparts. Synthetic brushes also absorb l e s s p r o d u c t d u r i n g u s e , w h i c h m e a n s t h a t y o u w o n’ t b e w a s t i n g a s m u c h a s you would with natural brushes.
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E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
Brushes are designed to take away the hard work behind the application of the makeup. YES that’s right, if the right brushes are used for the correct application – this will speed up the application as well as give you precision i.e. - Foundation Br ush - The primar y function of a foundation br ush is to facilitate the smooth application of your base or foundation onto the skin. - Concealer Brush - A concealer brush is perfect for spot correction. - Stippling Brush - Great for less is more makeup application - Angled Blush Brush - Creating structured facial shapes - Powder Br ush - Helps with a wash of product over the skin to create a vail - Angled Brush - Precision and technical line creations - Contour Brush - Building definition and precision - Highlight Fan Br ush - Tickling the skin with less is more glow Cleaning your tools both instantly and deeply: Every artist should use some form of brush cleaner as a temporary cleaning or quick fix between deep washing your brushes. Products such as MAC Br ush Cleanser or Make Up Forever Instant Br ush Cleanser are great to have in your kit as the products work exceptionally well by cleansing and drying quickly and thoroughly!
Step by step to deep cleaning your brushes weekly. 1 . WA S H Hand wash brushes with an anti-bacterial soap or silicone-free baby shampoo i n l u k e w a r m w a t e r . Wa s h i n g u p l i q u i d i s a c c e p t a b l e o n l y a s a l a s t r e s o r t . I t strips the brushes of all grease, but it can be harsh on the natural hair long t e r m . D i p e a c h b r u s h i n d i v i d u a l l y u n d e r t h e r u n n i n g w a t e r, a n d t h e n i n t o a bowl of gentle shampoo or soap and rub gently with fingers to get a good lather for a few minutes. 2. SWIRL H o l d b r u s h e s u n d e r r u n n i n g w a t e r, c h e c k i n g u n t i l t h e r e ’ s n o l a t h e r l e f t o n i t . Hold for a further 2-3 seconds, ensuring they are sparkling clean. If you are r u s h e d f o r t i m e , t h e n t h e E x p r e s s B r u s h Wa s h i n g M a t f r o m S i g m a i s a m u s t have. It saves hours of brush washing time as you swirl brushes over the tiny plastic teeth on the mat and it cleans them in at least half the time. 3 . R E P E AT If there is still residue on the brush, repeat the process. If not, then squeeze the water out of the brush and lay it flat on a towel next to the sink to dry. T h i s e n s u r e s t h e w a t e r d o e s n’ t d r a i n i n t o t h e h a n d l e a n d r o t t h e w o o d o r remove the glue. 4. DRY After all of the brushes are washed, lay them in a neat row underneath the r a d i a t o r - i f y o u s t a c k t h e m o n t o p o f e a c h o t h e r, t h e y d o n’ t d r y p r o p e r l y , shape of the hairs will change and smell strange.
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T I P S
A N D
T E C H N I Q U E S
When shampooing, always keep the brush pointed downward with the brindle of hairs towards the sink. Never get the entire brush head wet and make sure not to saturate the brindle ( part of brush where hairs are glued to the stem) with w a t e r. T h i s c a n c a u s e m o u l d a n d b a c t e r i a t o g r o w and cause brush hairs to fall out. Also remember to dry brushes horizontally or hanging downward. Which Products to Use for Cleaning Fr o m s p r a y b r u s h c l e a n e r t o t h e o l i v e o i l t h a t comes straight from your kitchen – these things are great for cleaning your brushes. Wa t e r a n d S o a p - M a n y m a k e u p a r t i s t s r e c o m mend us to use lukewarm water with soap. Sometimes, it is one of the simplest solutions. Howeve r, i f y o u r b r i s t l e s a r e v e r y d i r t y , y o u w i l l n e e d to work a bit more to make them shine and new again.
Cleaning Mat - Cleaning mat has become a popular and practical product for cleaning b r u s h e s . T h e s u r f a c e o f e a c h m a t , d e p e n d i n g o n t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r, i s d i f f e r e n t , y e t i t t e n d s to help you clean your bristles efficiently and pretty quick. Baby Shampoo - Gentle cleansers like baby shampoos are great for brush cleaning. There are also special shampoos for cleaning your brushes. Olive Oil - Believe it or not, we have just found out that olive oil has another useful purpose! It can be used for brush cleaning. Simply, you can dip your bristles into a small amount of olive oil (some mix it with soap) and clean all the makeup residues by rubbing i t a g a i n s t t h e c l e a n s p o n g e . Wa s h i t w i t h s o a p o r s h a m p o o t o e l i m i n a t e t h e o i l . S i m p l e a s that! Dishwasher Liquid - Since dishwasher liquid is used for cleaning persistent stains on your plates, you can imagine how good it will clean the layers of makeup on your bristles. Use it instead of baby or cleaning shampoo. Makeup or Brush Wipes - The wet wipes are great for everyday cleaning of your synthetic b r u s h e s . Yo u c a n u s e t h e m i n - b e t w e e n u s a g e o r w h e n y o u a r e i n a h u r r y , b u t y o u w a n t t o keep your bristles in good shape and disinfected. There are many wipes on the market nowa d a y s . Yo u c a n u s e b o t h m a k e u p a n d b r u s h o n e s .
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T H E
P A N D E M I C
T h e p a n d e m i c ’ s h i t a l l b u s i n e s s e s i n t h e p r o f e s s i o n a l b e a u t y , h a i r a n d w e l l b e i n g s e c t o r. This chapter provides information about the pandemic, how it is spread, and what steps you can take to prevent and control infection in beauty and hair businesses thus helping to keep you and your clients safe. We w i l l b e c o v e r i n g t h e f o l l o w i n g s u b h e a d i n g s ; • Infection Prevention & Control in Beauty and Hair Salons • R e d u c i n g t h e R i s k o f Tr a n s m i s s i o n o f v i r u s e s i n t h e s a l o n • Salon Hygiene and Personal Protective Equipment • H a n d l i n g Wa s t e • E n v i r o n m e n t a l P r o t e c t i o n A c t 1 9 9 0 a n d t h e C o n t r o l l e d Wa s t e R e g u l a t i o n s 1 9 9 2
F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
1. What's the definition of an Epidemic? An epidemic is defined as an outbreak of a disease that occurs over a wide geographic area and affects an exceptionally high proportion of the population. An epidemic is an event in which a disease is actively spreading.
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2. What is the definition of a Pandemic? The term pandemic relates to geographic spread and is used to describe a disease that affects a whole country or the entire world.
Previous Pandemics There have been multiple flu pandemics in the 20th century. The Spanish flu pandemic of 1918 is estimated to have caused 50 million deaths, with anywhere from 20% to 40% of the world's population falling sick. The Asian flu pandemic of 1958–59 resulted in the death of about 2 million people and the Hong Kong flu of 1968–69 is estimated to have caused around 1 million deaths. The only effective mitigation against a pandemic is a vaccine. The current coronavir us (COVID -19) outbreak, which began in China on 31st December 2019, presents a serious challenge to the health and economic growth of the world that we now live in.
What causes an infection?
A Pathogen is a microorganism that causes an infection. Pathogens cannot be seen by the naked eye and can only be seen under a microscope. Pathogens are disease-causing viruses, bacteria, fungi or p r o t o z o a . S t e r i l i s i n g w a t e r, p r e p a r i n g f o o d h y g i e n i c a l l y , washing, vaccination and physical barriers can reduce the spread of pathogens.
Examples of Pathogens
• BACTERIA – Example C.DIFF (Clostridium difficile) is a bacterial infection that can infect the bowel and cause d i a r r h o e a , f e v e r, s i c k n e s s a n d s t o m a c h p a i n s . • BACTERIA - Example MRSA (meticillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus) is a type of bacteria that's resistant to several widely used antibiotics and means that it is harder to treat than other bacterial infections. It is often referred to as a “Superbug”
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D I D
Y O U
K N O W ?
The Life Cycle of a Pathogen - (Using COVID -19 Case study) Pathogens have a simple life cycle. They infect a host, reproduce themselves or replicate if it is a virus, spread from their host and infect other organisms. They also all have structural adaptations that make them successful at completing their life cycles, which enable them to cause more disease. Diseases caused by pathogens are known communicable diseases. This means t h e d i s e a s e c a n b e t r a n s f e r r e d f r o m o n e i n f e c t e d o r g a n i s m t o a n o t h e r. HOSTS; The host is an animal or plant that a pathogen lives in or feeds on. W h e n t h e i n f e c t i o n s p r e a d s f r o m o n e h u m a n t o a n o t h e r, t h e m o s t r e c e n t l y i n f e c t e d p e r s o n b e c o m e s t h e p a t h o g e n’ s h o s t . V E C T O R S ; A v e c t o r i s a c a r r i e r, w h i c h t r a n s f e r s a d i s e a s e o r p a r a s i t e f r o m o n e host to another e.g. a mosquito (is a vector) that carries the malaria parasite plasmodium between humans, and the tsetse fly that carries trypanosomes from other animals to humans. Dogs, bats, and other animals are vectors that transmit the rabies virus to humans. NON-COMMUNICABLE DISEASES; Some diseases are not caused by pathogens a n d a r e n’ t i n f e c t i o u s . T h e y a r e k n o w n a s n o n - c o m m u n i c a b l e d i s e a s e s e . g C y s t i c F i b r o s i s , C a n c e r, C a r d i o v a s c u l a r d i s e a s e s .
THE CHAIN OF INFECTION; In order to prevent the spread of infections like COVID -19, it is important to understand how it spreads from one p e r s o n t o a n o t h e r. T h i s i s k n o w n a s t h e c h a i n o f i n f e c t i o n a n d t h e r e a r e 6 links in the chain.
The chain starts with the pathogen, which is the biological name for the COVID -19 vir us T H E P AT H O G E N n e e d s s o m e w h e r e t o l i v e , a n d t h i s i s c a l l e d t h e r e s e r v o i r . The reservoir could be a human, animal or plant. The reservoir could also b e s o i l o r w a t e r. W i t h C OV I D - 1 9 , t h e r e s e r v o i r i s t h e p e r s o n w h o i s a l r e a d y infected.
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T h e n e x t l i n k i n t h e c h a i n i s t h e M E A N S O F E X I T, w h i c h i s h o w t h e p a t h o g e n l e a v e s t h e r e s e r v o i r. I n t h e c a s e o f C OV I D - 1 9 t h e m o s t u s u a l m e a n s o f e x i t i s through coughing or sneezing. This is why it is important to cough into a tissue or the crook or your elbow. It also explains why social distancing is an important weapon against the spread of COVID -19. The MODE OF TRANSMISSION is how the virus or pathogen can spread. With COVID -19 this is done either through inhalation of small droplets in the air or by contact followed by touching of the mouth and eyes. T h e P O RTA L O F E N T RY i s h o w t h e p a t h o g e n e n t e r s t h e b o d y . W i t h C OV I D - 1 9 this is through the respiratory tract by inhalation or the mouth and eyes usually by dirty or unwashed hands. T h e f i n a l p a r t o f t h e c h a i n i s t h e P E R S O N AT R I S K , o r t h e h o s t . S o m e p e o p l e are more vulnerable than others. With COVID -19, this include the elderly and people with underlying health conditions.
Examples of Pathogens • Vir uses- Examples include Common Cold, HIV, Flu, Coronavir us (COVID -19). Vir uses can sur vive on surfaces and in food. They are only able to multiply within a living cell. • Protozoa- Protozoa are single celled organisms. An example of serious diseases caused by protozoa is Malaria. Malaria is a serious tropical disease spread by mosquitoes. Malaria is caused by a type of parasite known as Plasmodium. • Parasites- survive by living in or on a host. Examples of parasites are Threadworms, Scabies, Head and Body Lice. • Fungal Infections occur when tissues of the body are invaded by one or more species of fungi. They can cause superficial, localised skin conditions e.g. Ringworm & Athletes Foot. They can also cause more serious lung, blood (septicemia) or systemic diseases.
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E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
R e d u c i n g t h e R i s k o f Tr a n s m i s s i o n o f C o r o n a v i r u s ( C O V I D - 1 9 ) i n t h e s a l o n It is vital that you implement good standards of hygiene in your business To p r o t e c t y o u r s e l f a n d y o u r c l i e n t s f r o m i n f e c t i o n y o u m u s t a d o p t a c o n s i s t e n t approach to your everyday working practices. By implementing high standards of hygiene in the salon you can break the chain of infection. To b r e a k t h e c h a i n o f i n f e c t i o n y o u s h o u l d e n s u r e t h a t t h e f o l l o w i n g r u l e s a r e in force: • A high standard of hand hygiene should be maintained • PPE is used correctly e.g. disposable gloves and masks • General and clinical waste is disposed of safely • To w e l s , c o u c h c o v e r s a n d o t h e r s u n d r y i t e m s u s e d i n t h e c o u r s e o f a t r e a t ment must be safely laundered. Yo u r m a n t r a m u s t b e “ C l e a n l i n e s s i s n e x t t o g o d l i n e s s ” y o u m u s t s t a r t b y k e e p ing yourself and your working environment clean and this will safeguard your own health and also the health of your clients.
Social Distancing As soon as practicable, workplaces should be set up to meet the Government’s COVID -19 Secure guidelines. These will keep you as safe as possible, while a l l o w i n g a s m a n y p e o p l e a s p o s s i b l e t o r e s u m e t h e i r l i v e l i h o o d s . I n p a r t i c u l a r, workplaces should, where possible, ensure employees can maintain a two-meter distance from others, and wash their hands regularly. Hand Hygiene Hand Hygiene is perhaps the simplest but most effective way to prevent the risk of cross contamination in the salon. Many infections including COVID -19, norovir us and flu can be transmitted from one person to another by touching contaminated surfaces such as door handles, m o n e y , c r e d i t c a r d s e t c . Yo u r h a n d s c a n b e c o n t a m i n a t e d d u r i n g y o u r n o r m a l working day so hand hygiene is vitally important for the safety of your clients a n d y o u r s e l f. When to perform hand hygiene? • When you arrive at work • Before commencing a treatment on your client • After finishing a treatment on your client • If you drop something on the floor and have to retrieve it to dispose of it • Always perform hand hygiene before putting on and after removing gloves. • If you sneeze or cough
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Before performing hand hygiene • Keep your hair tied back where possible and avoid touching it. • Expose forearms (bare below the elbow) • Remove all hand and wrist jewellery (a single, plain metal finger ring is permitted but should be removed (or moved up) during hand hygiene. • Ensure fingernails are clean and short and do not wear artificial nails or nail products. • Cover all cuts or abrasions with a waterproof dressing. • Tr y t o a v o i d t o u c h i n g y o u f a c e o r a n y p a r t o f y o u r b o d y a n d i f y o u d o w a s h your hands.
Hand hygiene using hand sanitisers If you do not have immediate access to soap and water then use alcohol-based hand sanitiser instead. Use the same hand washing routine with sanitisers as we have just described for s o a p a n d w a t e r. Clients should be asked to wash their own hands when they enter the salon and you can sanitise them again prior to commencing the treatment. Hand washing i s f a r m o r e e f f e c t i v e t h a n h a n d s a n i t i z e r. W h e n p u r c h a s i n g h a n d s a n i t i s e r, y o u must check that it is effective against COVID19 or contain a minimum of 70% isopropyl alcohol.
Salon Hygiene and Personal Protective Equipment; The Personal Protective E q u i p m e n t ( P P E ) A t Wo r k R e g u l a t i o n s ( 2 0 0 2 ) This requires employers to identify activities which require special protective c l o t h i n g , w h i c h m u s t t h e n b e m a d e a v a i l a b l e t o t h e i r s t a f f, f r e e o f c h a r g e . A l l members of staff must be trained on how to use it and the employer must replace items as and when required.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Personal Protective Equipment PPE is used to protect your health and the health of staff when working in the salon. U N I F O R M : Yo u r u n i f o r m s h o u l d b e c h a n g e d r e g u l a r l y a n d l a u n d e r e d s a f e l y t o p r e v e n t c r o s s i n f e c t i o n . Yo u r u n i f o r m s h o u l d b e c h a n g e d a f t e r e a c h s h i f t a n d laundered safely to prevent cross infection. Staff should be advised not to wear their uniform to travel to work from home and vice versa. Once home the uniform should be placed in the washing machine and laundered at 60 degrees. Hands should be washed after you have removed your worn uniform. It is also advisable to keep a separate pair of shoes for wearing at work. DISPOSABLE APRONS: Aprons provide another layer of protection. They can be either disposable items which are usually made of plastic, or fabric which can be washed. Always launder at temperatures of 60 degrees C or above and in accordance with manufacturer’s guidelines.
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DISPOSABLE GLOVES: Disposable gloves can help prevent the spread of infection and must be changed a f t e r t r e a t i n g e a c h c l i e n t . We a r i n g d i s p o s a b l e g l o v e s i s n o t a s u b s t i t u t e f o r h a n d w a s h i n g . Yo u s h o u l d a l w a y s w a s h y o u r h a n d s t h o r o u g h l y a n d t h e n p u t o n t h e g l o v e s i n f r o n t o f y o u r c l i e n t . Yo u s h o u l d n e v e r r e - u s e d i s p o s a b l e g l o v e s . Dispose of single-use gloves after each use. Blood-contaminated gloves should b e t r e a t e d a s c o n t a m i n a t e d w a s t e a n d d i s p o s e d o f i n t h e c o r r e c t m a n n e r. D u e t o an increasing number of cases of latex allergy, it is advised to use disposable gloves made from another material such as nitrile or PVC. If you do use latex gloves and either you or the client shows signs of skin irritation then further contact should be prevented. How to remove disposable gloves • Follow these steps to safely remove contaminated gloves: • U s e t h e f i n g e r t i p s o f a g l o v e d h a n d t o g r a s p t h e o t h e r g l o v e n e a r t h e c u f f. • S l o w l y p u l l t h e g l o v e d o w n w h i l e r e m o v i n g y o u r h a n d . Tu r n t h e g l o v e i n s i d e out as you pull. • Drop the contaminated glove into a plastic bag. • Use the fingertips of the un-gloved hand to grasp the inside of the gloved h a n d n e a r t h e c u f f. • S l o w l y p u l l t h e g l o v e d o w n w h i l e r e m o v i n g y o u r h a n d . Tu r n t h e g l o v e i n s i d e out as you pull.
FA C E M A S K S : Yo u c a n i n f e c t o t h e r s w h e n c o u g h i n g a n d s n e e z i n g a s t h e b a c t e r i a and viruses become airborne and other people can inhale them. It is always important to cover your nose and mouth with a tissue when sneezing or coughing and remember to wash your hands well after doing so. Some cultures like Japan, Korea and other Far East countries have been regularly wearing masks for many years before the pandemic. The reason is not to prot e c t t h e w e a r e r, b u t i t i s d o n e a s a c o u r t e s y t o s t o p t h e w e a r e r f r o m p a s s i n g o n any infections to the people they meet. We a r e l i k e l y t o f a c e a c u l t u r a l c h a n g e w h e r e m a n y p e o p l e w e a r m a s k s a f t e r t h e COVID -19 pandemic. F a c e M a s k Ty p e s - T h e r e a r e m a n y b r a n d s a n d g r a d e s o f f a c e m a s k s a v a i l a b l e , b u t we can break them down simply into one of the following categories. • M E D I C A L G R A D E R E S P I R AT O R M A S K S c a n b e c l a s s e d a s N 9 5 g r a d e w h e n t h e y filter out at least 95% of all airborne particles. These are the types of masks worn by medical professionals who work in hospitals and care homes. • S U R G I C A L G R A D E PA P E R D I S P O S A B L E M A S K S p r o t e c t a g a i n s t l a r g e d r o p l e t s but are not effective against small airborne particles. They are loose fitting which allows leakage around the sides and need to be changed regularly. •CLOTH MASKS offer some protection to people that the wearer comes into contact with as they reduce the spread of infections that can be transmitted by c o u g h s a n d s n e e z e s f r o m t h e w e a r e r. T h e s e m a s k s c a n b e w a s h e d ( a t h i g h t e m -
FA C E S H I E L D S : Face shields can provide an additional layer of protection when doing treatments on and around the face where the 2 m social distancing rule cannot be applied. Face shields should be worn over a surgical face mask. They can either be disposable for single treatment use or can be cleaned and disinfected after use. Always follow manufacturer’s guidelines for cleaning PPE.
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Handling waste - In the course of your business you may have to deal with two main types of waste: 1. Hazardous, clinical waste 2. General waste General waste should be placed separately in a pedal bin which has a bin liner in it. Yo u r l o c a l c o u n c i l w i l l b e a b l e t o a d v i s e y o u a b o u t t h e w a s t e d i s p o s a l s e r v i c e s that they offer to businesses. Yo u m u s t k n o w h o w t o i d e n t i f y b o t h t y p e s o f w a s t e a n d u n d e r s t a n d h o w e a c h t y p e s h o u l d b e s a f e l y, d i s p o s e d o f. E n v i r o n m e n t a l P r o t e c t i o n A c t 1 9 9 0 a n d t h e C o n t r o l l e d Wa s t e R e g u l a t i o n s 1 9 9 2 Anything contaminated with human tissues should be designated as Group A clinical waste under the Environmental Protection Act 1990 and the Controlled Wa s t e R e g u l a t i o n s 1 9 9 2 .
G r o u p A C l i n i c a l Wa s t e i n c l u d e s t h e f o l l o w i n g : • Human or animal tissue • Blood or other body fluids • Excretions • Swabs or dressings G r o u p A C l i n i c a l Wa s t e : T h i s t y p e o f w a s t e m u s t b e k e p t s e p a r a t e f r o m g e n e r a l waste because it can spread infection. It should be placed in yellow refuse sacks and sealed with plastic ties or a heat s e a l e r . Yo u w i l l n e e d t o a p p o i n t a s p e c i a l i s t c o n t r a c t o r t o r e m o v e c l i n i c a l w a s t e from your premises. Single Use Items: The greatest risk of cross infection occurs when the skin is pierced so the equipment used for this must be sterile. Using single-use disposable equipment/tools for each new client can eliminate the risk of cross infection. I f t h e s k i n i s a c c i d e n t a l l y c u t i t c a n c a u s e c r o s s i n f e c t i o n t o o c c u r. If either you or your client has a cut or open wound it must be covered with a plaster to prevent cross infection. Sterile Packs: Equipment such as needles for electrolysis and micropigmentation, microlances used for milia extraction, pedi –blades and equipment for ear piercing can be purchased in single-use sealed sterile packs. These should only be opened immediately prior to use and disposed of as con-
S h a r p s B o x e s - E n v i r o n m e n t a l P r o t e c t i o n A c t 1 9 9 0 a n d t h e C o n t r o l l e d Wa s t e R e g ulations 1992 Group B clinical waste in the salon includes the following items: Electrolysis needles, microlances, pedicure blades, disposable ear/nose piercing cartridges and broken glass. Any Group B clinical waste should be put in purpose made sharps boxes and then sealed. Sharps must be disposed of safely as they can become contaminated with a client’s blood or serum and can transmit diseases including Hepatitis B, Hepatitis C and HIV. All clinical waste must be disposed of using a waste carrier registered for the carrying and disposal of clinical waste.
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Autoclave Sterilisation: The most effective method of sterilisation is the autoc l a v e . Yo u m u s t a l w a y s f o l l o w t h e m a n u f a c t u r e r s ’ s p e c i f i c i n s t r u c t i o n s f o r o p e r ating the autoclave to ensure that it is effective. To k e e p y o u r t o o l s c l e a n y o u s h o u l d r e g u l a r l y s t e r i l i s e t h e m . S t e r i l i s a t i o n i s t h e complete destruction of all living micro-organisms. The most reliable method of sterilisation is moist heat using steam under pressure. The Autoclave can reach a maximum temperature of 140 degrees centigrade. All instruments should be thoroughly cleaned by manual means to remove any visible contamination before they are sterilised. A n a u t o c l a v e r e q u i r e s p r o p e r t r a i n i n g f o r a l l p e r s o n s u s i n g i t . Yo u a r e r e q u i r e d to keep autoclave sterilisation records. Always check with your supplier that tools are suitable for placing in an Autoclave. Instrument Disinfectant: There are also number of fast acting disinfectant products available through wholesale hair and beauty suppliers. These include highly, concentrated formulations that require diluting before use and provide one of the most cost-effective ways to disinfect instruments and tools. Disinfection products are used to destroy or prevent the growth of organisms capable of c a u s i n g i n f e c t i o n s . To b e e f f e c t i v e t h e y m u s t b e d i l u t e d a n d u s e d f o l l o w i n g t h e manufacturer’s specific instructions.
Preventing the Spread of Coronavir us (COVID -19): • According to medical experts, washing your hands is the best way to prevent the spread of Coronavirus. • Yo u m u s t a l s o c l e a n a l l o f t h e w o r k i n g s u r f a c e s i n y o u r s a l o n i n o r d e r t o k i l l any lingering germs. Disinfectants must be stored carefully and must be made up freshly prior to use. • Yo u m u s t c h e c k w i t h y o u r w h o l e s a l e r o r s u p p l i e r w h i c h d i s i n f e c t a n t s a r e t h e most effective in killing Coronavirus. These can range from gel bleach for toilets and multi surface cleaners for hard surfaces, walls and floors. All products must be used in line with the manufacturers’ instruction for use. Disinfecting Surfaces: COVID -19 is mainly passed on by person-to-person spread between people who are in close contact with one another and by droplets produced when an infected person coughs or sneezes. It can also spread through contact with a surface or object that has the virus on it. Cleaning helps minimise the spread of coronavir us (COVID -19). Fortunately, normal cleaning methods do kill this vir us. Salon owners and employees together play an important role in keeping themselves and the clients safe from infection. Staff should sneeze into tissues, which are binned immediately (in air tight bin with lid) and hands should be washed thoroughly afterwards.
Disinfection Products: Disinfection products are used to destroy or prevent the growth of organisms capable of causing infections. Disinfection is suitable for use on hard surfaces, floors, walls, doors, handles and certain tools and equipment. The process of disinfection reduces the population of most living organisms to safe numbers but does not eradicate spores. An example of this is bleach. A n t i s e p t i c s p r e v e n t t h e g r o w t h o f m i c r o - o r g a n i s m s b u t d o n o t k i l l t h e m a l l . To be effective disinfectants and antiseptics must be used in line with the individual manufacturer’s instructions.
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Cleaning Options: • To p r e v e n t t h e s p r e a d o f i n f e c t i o n , a l l f r e q u e n t l y t o u c h e d s u r f a c e s i n t h e salon should be disinfected after each client has exited the salon. • Surfaces should be wiped over with a soap prior to disinfection to remove any surface dirt and grime. • Disinfection solutions should be left long enough on the surface to kill the virus (in line with the individual manufacturer’s instructions). • B l e a c h i s e f f e c t i v e a s a d i s i n f e c t a n t a g a i n s t C OV I D - 1 9 . • A l c o h o l o r h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e c a n b e u s e d a s a n e f f e c t i v e c l e a n e r. • Professional steam cleaners can also be used on hard surfaces, e.g. floors • It is important to clean your hands regularly, and disinfect areas you touch often. Steam Cleaning: • Steam cleaning is quick and efficient way to get rid of invisible bacteria that traditional mopping cannot. • Drying time with steam cleaning is far quicker because there is less water left behind. • Yo u d o n ’ t n e e d p o t e n t i a l l y h a r m f u l ( a n d e x p e n s i v e ) d e t e r g e n t s w i t h s t e a m cleaning. • Yo u o n l y n e e d o n e t o o l w h e n y o u s t e a m c l e a n y o u r f l o o r s . • Depending on which model of steam cleaner you buy, you could also have the option to clean places other than your floors. Countertops or tiles for instance can be given a good clean without the need for another appliance (although you may have to change the extensions). • Hard to remove stains, or ground in dirt can be removed without the need to “scrub” and it’s eco-friendly.
Cleaning Hard Floors: Mops and buckets are the more traditional method of cleaning and disinfecting hard floors • Use two buckets for mopping – floors need to be cleaned with hot, soapy water to remove any visible dirt and then disinfected. Floors must be dried using a clean dry mop to prevent trips and slips. • Mops and buckets should be cleaned and dried after each use. They must be germ-free or they'll spread germs to your surfaces.
What to Clean: Yo u m u s t p a y p a r t i c u l a r a t t e n t i o n t o c l e a n i n g a n d d i s i n f e c t i n g t h e f o l l o w i n g : • Display units • Salon equipment (to include their outer casings and any attachments) • Door handles • Phones and phone cords/Mobile phones • Counters • Card payment machines • Tr o l l e y s a n d w o r k s t a t i o n s • Magnifying Lamps • Couches, Chairs (and any protective covers) • Chairs and coffee tables • Kitchen units, sinks, kettles • Keys • Protective Glasses • Light switches • Fr i d g e h a n d l e s • To i l e t b o w l s a n d h a n d l e s • Ta p s a n d h a n d w a s h b a s i n s • C o m p u t e r k e y b o a r d s a n d t h e m o u s e / Ta b l e t s
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Cleaning Implements: Here are some general cleaning tips to help prevent the spread of germs in your salon: Cloths and sponges • use disposable cloths and sponges • reusable cloths should be disinfected or washed at 60C (140F) after each use Wa s h i n g - u p b r u s h e s • wash brushes in a dishwasher regularly or clean with detergent and warm water after each use Carpet and soft furnishings • steam cleaning is effective against germs on carpets and furnishings
To i l e t s : A s k c l i e n t s a n d s t a f f t o k e e p t h e U - b e n d a n d t o i l e t b o w l c l e a n b y f l u s h ing after each use. Ask everyone to close the lid before flushing • Use a toilet cleaner and brush to keep the bowl clean • Limescale should be regularly removed using a descaling product • Keep the toilet seat, handle and rim clean by using a disinfectant • Keep the floor area around the base of the toilet clean by mopping regularly with disinfectant Sinks and showers • Clean sinks with a disinfectant after every use Showers • Clean shower trays with a disinfectant after every use • If a shower hasn't been used for a while, let it run with hot water before using it Tiles and shower curtains • Keep tiles and grout in good condition • Clean shower curtains after every use and launder frequently Laundry • Wa s h y o u r h a n d s a f t e r h a n d l i n g d i r t y l a u n d r y • Salon uniforms, must be changed regularly and washed in detergent at a minimum temperature of 60 degrees centigrade and then tumble dried on a hot setting. • All towels and linen should be washed at 60C (140F) or at 40C (104F) with a bleach-based laundry product to prevent germs from spreading. If your towels are white, they can be washed on the hottest setting your machine will allow and then tumble dried on a hot setting. • Don't leave laundry in the washing machine – any remaining germs can multiply rapidly
S t a f f B r e a k s : Yo u m u s t n o t a l l o w s t a f f t o e a t o r d r i n k i n t h e t r e a t m e n t r o o m . A separate room should be provided for staff to take their breaks in and this should be well away from the treatment area. Kitchen 1. Ensure food-preparation surfaces are clean before use 2 . Wa s h a n d d r y y o u r h a n d s a f t e r h a n d l i n g f o o d 3. Clean surfaces immediately after use
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Wa s t e D i s p o s a l • Foot-operated bins are more hygienic because they reduce the risk of getting germs onto your hands from touching the bin lid • Wa s t e b i n s s h o u l d a l w a y s b e l i n e d w i t h a b i n l i n e r t o e n s u r e t h e s a f e d i s p o s a l of the waste when required • Wa s t e b i n s m u s t b e c l e a n e d w i t h a d e t e r g e n t t o r e m o v e s u r f a c e g r i m e a n d t h e n disinfected after emptying • Always wash your hands after handling waste material • Throw rubbish away carefully to avoid attracting vermin
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K I T S With all aspiring makeup artists, it is essential to have a kit that’s affordable to begin with and then have the options to upgrade to certain brands as you become more confident. But having said that, there is no need to be brand savvy as not all expensive brands are the best brands – which over the years we have come to terms with. Additionally, having every single foundation, concealer and powder tones does not make you an amazing makeup artist, just a broke makeup artist (hee-hee) which I why in this chapter I will explain how to purchase smartly!
F R E Q U E N T LY
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Q U E S T I O N S
1. What should your makeup kit consist of? As a makeup artist, you need to be prepared for all eventualities as 9/10 you will be meeting the client for the first time at point of booking. Makeup kits a r e b r o k e n d o w n i n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g c a t e g o r i e s ; | H y g i e n e | To o l s & E q u i p m e n t | Skincare | Eyes | Face | Lips | - which all will be covered within this chap-
2. What should your hair kit consist of? Just as you makeup kit must be on point, your hair kits is equally as important as we all know hair and makeup goes hand in hand for your clients. I recommend breaking down your kit into the following categories; | Hygiene | Electric a l | To o l s | P i n s / E l a s t i c s | P r o d u c t s | H a i r e x t e n s i o n s , s t u f f i n g a n d p i e c e s | - w h i c h a g a i n a l l c o v e r e d w i t h i n t h i s c h a p t e r.
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3. As a makeup artist in the making, should I only have expensive brands in my kit? For ever y makeup artist, the cost and time of building up your kit is a key concern. With so many brands and blogger opinions – this process can be confusi n g . R e m e m b e r, i t t a k e s t i m e t o g r o w a s o l i d m a k e u p k i t . S o s t a r t w i t h t h e b a s i c s and overtime build up your kit, there is no point in buying 20 lipsticks and only 1 foundation. Remember to be resourceful, for example buying a light foundation and a dark foundation so you can mix the two colours to create your required shades, or using eyeshadows to fill in the brows and even use to add colour to the cheeks.
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K N O W ?
A well sourced makeup kit only costs around £500. The costs tend to mount up when artist begin to purchase more prestige brands. In this day and age, makeup is one of the top 3 purchases by girls, this means that the prestige brands capture the customers attention based on renowned and recognition whereas high street brands are firstly completing with the prestige brands but aiming for higher quality – crazy right!! Why pay £30.00 for a prestige brand foundation when you can purchase a high-street brand for half the price, and does exactly the same. Makeup is multi-purpose use i.e. eyeshadows can be used for contouring, blushers, brows and even in your hairline to eliminate shine. All products designed for the eye areas are safe to use anywhere on the face and body as it is ophthalmologist tested, which it means it has been tested, cleared and given t h e o k a y e d b y a p r o f e s s i o n a l e y e d o c t o r. W h e r e a s a s l i p p r o d u c t s f o r e x a m p l e would be classed as unsafe on the eyes due to it not being ophthalmologist tested.
E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
Both makeup and hairstylist kits need to be organised and maintain in order to level up your professionalism but importantly easy to carry from client to c l i e n t . To d o s o , i t ’ s b e s t t o b r e a k d o w n y o u r k i t i n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g c a t e g o ries – MAKEUP KITS – For bridal to catwalk to television HYGIENE • Makeup removable products – Wipes, makeup remove solutions • Isopropanol spray • Brush cleaner • Sandwich bags for rubbish • Disposable wands – mascara, Cotton buds • Capes for the clients to wear • Facemask – Covid-19 requirements • Disposable gloves – Covid-19 requirements • Face shields – Covid-19 requirements TOOLS & EQUIPMENT • Make brushes • Makeup spatula and palette • Disposable makeup sponges
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SKINCARE • Primers • Setting sprays • Eye creams • Skincare creams – Sensitive, Normal and Dry • Mattifier creams • Setting powders • Blotting films • Hydration sprays • Glow creams • Lip conditioners EYES • Eyeshadow pallets • Eyeliners • Brow products • Mascaras • Pigments • Glitters • Bases FA C E • Concealers • Foundations • Blushers • Contouring • Highlighters • Powders LIPS • Lipliners • Lipsticks • Lip-glosses HAIRSTYLIST KITS – For all forms of hairstyling, from bridal to catwalk to television HYGIENE • Isopropanol spray • Capes for the clients to wear • Facemask – Covid-19 requirements • Disposable gloves – Covid-19 requirements • Face shields – Covid-19 requirements ELECTRICAL • Extension wire • Heat mats or a towel • Curling Iron 1/2", 3/4”, 1”, 1 1/4” • Flat Iron • Hair Dryer with nozzle and diffuser • Small Curling wand
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PRODUCTS • Dry Shampoo • Ouai Dr y Shampoo Foam • Klorane Dry Shampoo • H a i r s p r a y Wo r k i n g S p r a y • Sebastian Zero Gravity • C h i I n f r a Te x t u r e D u a l A c t i o n Hairspray • Finishing Spray/Strong Hold Spray • K e n r a Vo l u m e S p r a y ( 2 5 ) • L’ O r e a l L o c k I t P r o U l t r a S t r o n g Hairspray • Nice to have just in case • Vo l u m i s i n g M o u s s e / S p r a y / P o w d e r • M o r o c c a n O i l Vo l u m i z i n g M o u s s e • A G S p r a y B o d y S o f t H o l d Vo l u m izer • G o t 2 B Vo l u m i z i n g S t y l i n g Powder • Living Proof Full Thickening Mousse • H a i r S e r u m s / A n t i Fr i z z / H e a t Protector Products • L i v i n g P r o o f We i g h t l e s s S p r a y • Ouai Rose Hair & Body Oil • Cake The Locks Smith Dry Conditioner • Mixed Chicks Hair Silk • Paul Mitchell Liquid Curl Definer • Living Proof Split End Mender • Sheen Spray • Te x t u r e S p r a y • K e n r a Te x t u r e S p r a y • O u a i Wa v e S p r a y • Joico Hair Shake • Pomade • Davines Strong Moulding Clay (Firm Mat Finish) • D a v i n e s S h i n e Wa x • Gels/Creams • Mixed Chicks Styling Cream • Edge Control • Kevin Murphy Super Goo HAIR EXTENSIONS, STUFFING, PIECES & OTHER • Wig Caps • Hair Donuts (Black, Brown, Blonde) • Container to organize pins etc. • Clip in Hair Extensions (100% Human Hair) 14", 16", Black, Medium Brown, Light Brown, Assorted Blondes • Hair braiding ponies • Kinky hair padding
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T I P S
A N D
T E C H N I Q U E S
Makeup kits When building a makeup kit, purchase products that can be multi-purposely used, for example – Concealers, they can be used to conceal imperfections but a l s o u s e d a s a n e y e s h a d o w b a s e o r a m a t t e h i g h l i g h t e r. L a s t l y a c o n c e a l e r c a n also be mixed into a foundation to manipulate shades. Hairstyling kits The list from the previous chapter is covering all eventualities but if you are only focusing on bridal hairstyling then having a handful from the list would be sufficient enough. 9/10 for bridal bookings, you’ll know exactly what type of hair you’ll be working with and style you’ll be creating as this would have been covered within the client’s bridal trial appointment.
P I C T U R E S
C L I E N T
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K N O W L E D G E
C O N S U L T A T I O N S / T R I A L S
An important aspect of every hair and makeup artist’s job is the client consultation/trial, a standard step to being prepared to wow clients looking for the perfect look for their wedding. The client consultation/trial is all about communication—an opportunity to listen to and collaborate with your client so you can be sure you deliver the look they have in mind. I t ’ s a l s o t h e t i m e t o e x p e r i m e n t a n d f i n d w h a t w o r k s b e s t t h r o u g h t r i a l a n d e r r o r. A productive client consultation ensures you have a good understanding of what your client wants so there’s no miscommunication—and, more importantly, so there’s a happy client— on the day of the event. This chapter will include the key information you’ll need to know for you to be successful in this process.
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F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
1. How do clients book a hair and makeup consultation/trial? ANSWER - There are many ways and many types of consultations/trials both f r e e a n d p a i d . Fr e e c o n s u l t a t i o n s / t r i a l s c a n b e a s s m a l l a s a 1 5 - m i n u t e conversation/trials over the phone or virtual zoom calls. Paid consultations/trials are usually face 2 face and can last up to a minimum of 2 hours. It’s the artist choice on how clients can get in touch to book but id recommend 3 forms of contact i.e. telephone, email or social media direct messaging.
2. How much should you charge for hair and makeup consultation/trial? ANSWER - How long is a piece of string?!, consultations/trials cost varies from cities to experience to ser vices. Average costs for a consultation/trials for 2 hours are around £50 and can go up to £150 depending on what is covered in the consultation/trials. Again, this option is down to individual artist for example; artist 1; may only do half a face makeup on the client and charge £50 whereas artist 2; may do a full face of makeup and charge £60. It’s completely up to you as a service provider what’s included in your consultation/trials and pricing.
3.What is included in a hair and makeup consultation/trial? ANSWER - A consultation/trial is the time to get to know your client and find a look that makes her happy. At the end of the client consultation/tria l s , y o u a n d y o u r c l i e n t s h o u l d f e e l c o n f i d e n t t h a t t h e h a i r, m a k e u p l o o k has been achieved and that you will be able to recreate it on the day of the event. Consultation/trial checklist ( What to talk about to create a personal service) • Greeting. • Ask how they met and how he proposed. • Ta l k a b o u t t h e w e d d i n g . • Show them your portfolio (while they look through it, ask more about them as a couple and their interests) • Show them sample albums. • Wa l k t h r o u g h t h e c o n t r a c t . • Close.
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D I D
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K N O W ?
Communication principles to success = SHARE Specific/clear communication; Ask open-ended questions, be nice, make notes Hearing – attentive listening; Build trust, ensure you are understanding the information from the client, give and get information through the use of questioning, control the conversation to keep it on track with the end objective. Asking questions effectively; encourages discussion and leads to effective problem solving and outcomes. For example, use open ended questions – what makeup looks do you like? What do you think of this one? Rather than closed ended question – do you like this look? Do you agree? Reading body language; body language is an essential communication skill and is broken down into words, tone and body. Effectively measuring for success; measure using SMART (Specific / Measurable / Actionable / Realistic / Timely). Are you converting your bridal consultations from warm leads to hot leads against the goals you’ve set in a timely manner? Body language is broken down into 3 categories; 1. The words that we speak are only responsible for 7% of the message you convey 2 . To n e o f v o i c e i s r e s p o n s i b l e f o r 3 8 % o f t h e m e s s a g e y o u c o n v e y 3. Body language is responsible for 55% of the message you convey
E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
When a client contacts you for a hair and makeup consultation/trial, ask her a series of preliminary questions to find out more about the event she is attending, the date of the event, and her expectations. Encourage her to bring inspiration photos from magazines on the day of the consultation/trial. The client consultation/trial should begin with a series of questions designed to allow you to create a look that best suits your client: 1. What special event is the hair and makeup consultation/trial for i.e. Tr a d i t i o n a l A s i a n w e d d i n g / C i v i l w e d d i n g / B r i d a l r e c e p t i o n p a r t y ? It is important to understand the event your client is requesting a consultation/trial (if only one is going to be focussed on) in order to determine a look that is appropriate for the event. For example, a sultr y look for an evening reception event is more appropriate than it would be for a civil wedding event. 2. What are you wearing for the event? Yo u r c l i e n t ’ s c h o i c e o f o u t f i t s p e a k s v o l u m e s a b o u t h e r s t y l e a n d w i l l l i k e l y be a good source of inspiration when creating her hair and makeup look, so ask her to describe the outfit she will be wearing or have her show you a picture during the client consultation/trial. Also, not a problem if the client does not have an outfit, speak about the theme and colours she had in mind. 3. What does you daily makeup routine look like? Yo u r c l i e n t ’ s d a i l y m a k e u p r o u t i n e w i l l g i v e y o u a g o o d i d e a o f h e r m a k e u p p r e f e r e n c e s . Fo r e x a m p l e , a c l i e n t w h o g e n e r a l l y d o e s n’ t w e a r m a k e u p o n a daily basis will likely respond to a more natural look than a client who generally wears a full face of makeup every day. Asking about her daily makeup routine will give you a good idea on how daring or bold you can go with her makeup within her comfort zone.
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4. Is there an area you want to highlight or an area you want to minimize? Yo u r c l i e n t m a y l o v e p l a y i n g u p h e r l i p s o v e r h e r e y e s , o r v i c e v e r s a . S h e m a y l i k e c o n t o u r i n g t e c h n i q u e s t o e m p h a s i s e h e r c h e e k b o n e s . Ta k e t h e t i m e to get to know what she wants to accomplish with a makeup look. Does she want a romantic look? A bold cat eyes? A dewy or bronzed complexion? I f s h e d o e s n’ t e x p r e s s a p r e f e r e n c e , e x p e r i m e n t w i t h a f e w l o o k s a n d p a y close attention to her reaction. Show her that you are willing to take the time to find a look that makes her feel beautiful and confident.
T I P S
A N D
T E C H N I Q U E S
Tips and techniques for a successful hair and makeup consultation/trial There are a number of things you can do to ensure a successful hair and makeup consultation/trial: • Remind your client to be completely open with you as you try new colours and techniques. Explain to her that you encourage feedback and that her h o n e s t y w o n’ t h u r t y o u r f e e l i n g s . • As you complete her look, talk to her about what you are doing to give her a general idea of the process. • A good attitude is contagious! Expressing your confidence and excitement throughout the process will ease your client’s nerves and put them at ease. • Be prepared for a client’s hair and makeup consultation/trial with plenty of i d e a s a n d r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s . R e m e m b e r, y o u a r e t h e p r o f e s s i o n a l , s o t a k e control of the consultation/trial and show her you will help her find a look that makes her feel beautiful. • But remain flexible, adapting your hair and makeup techniques to suit your client’s needs. • The hair and makeup consultation/trial may be a trial run, but it’s also the t i m e t o s h o w o f f y o u r s k i l l s . Wo w h e r t o b u i l d h e r e x c i t e m e n t a b o u t w h a t s h e can expect for her upcoming events.
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E N D
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O F
C H A PT E R
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CHAPTER
03
A l l A b out T he S k i n
Skin preparation before makeup is a key ‘must’ for the makeup to be perf e c t f o r t h e c l i e n t . I f y o u d o n’ t u n d e r s t a n d s k i n t y p e s a n d f i x e s , h o w w o u l d you know what the correct products to use on your clients. Most importantl y I f y o u d o n’ t u n d e r s t a n d y o u r c l i e n t ’ s s k i n y o u m a y a p p l y m a k e u p p r o d ucts that do not suit their skin, and as a result they could have an adverse reaction to the product resulting in problem skin / irritation. In this chapt e r, w e w i l l b e c o v e r i n g t h e b e a l l a n d e n d a l l o f s k i n .
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The importance of skin analysis is that it gives you a clear picture of the current state of your client’s skin, which allows you to correctly choose which products would be appropriate to use on them. Also, by detecting any possible skin issues can reduce the incorrect p r o d u c t s b e i n g u s e d . I n t h i s c h a p t e r, w e w i l l b r e a k d o w n S k i n a n a l y s i s i n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g categories; SKIN STRUCTURE; The skin consists of two layers: the epidermis and the dermis. Beneath the dermis lies the hypodermis or subcutaneous fatty tissue. The skin has three main funct i o n s : p r o t e c t i o n , r e g u l a t i o n a n d s e n s a t i o n . Wo u n d i n g a f f e c t s a l l t h e f u n c t i o n s o f t h e s k i n . SKIN TYPES; Understanding the four skin types: normal, dry, oily and combination SKIN CONDITIONS; Acne, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, skin cancer and psoriasis are the five most common skin disorders.
F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
1. How can I advise my client about uneven skin tone? An uneven skin tone is caused by an uneven distribution of pigment. Sun exposure and hormonal changes can also contribute to this issue. Certain serums, creams or moisturisers, especially those that contain vitamin C, can all help to even out their skin tone. It is also possible that their skin can develop an uneven tone due to a build-up of dead skin cells. If that is the issue, a simple way to even out your skin tone is to exfoliate once a day or every couple of days.
2. How do I find out my clients skin stype? Ty p i c a l l y , s k i n i s c l a s s i f i e d i n j u s t a f e w c a t e g o r i e s , i n c l u d i n g n o r m a l , o i l y , d r y , and sensitive. If your client has combination skin, it means their skin is one type in one area and another type in another area (oily around your T-zone but normal everywhere else, for instance). Their skin type can change over time and c a n a l s o b e a f f e c t e d b y f a c t o r s s u c h a s h o r m o n e s , m e d i c a t i o n s , a n d d i e t . To g e t a good idea of what their skin type might be – begin the appointment by just asking!
3. What’s the recommended skin prep for mature skin before makeup Prior to applying foundation, reach for a hydrating moisturizer or a bit of face o i l . Yo u c a n e v e n d a b i n t h e f o u n d a t i o n w i t h a b i t o f t h e o i l l e f t o n y o u r f i n g e r s to add some extra moisture.
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D I D
Y O U
K N O W ?
8 of the most common skin conditions: 1. ACNE (ACNE VULGARIS) A c n e , t h e m o s t c o m m o n s k i n d i s o r d e r. A c n e i s c a u s e d b y b l o c k e d h a i r f o l l i cles and oil (sebaceous) glands of the skin, often triggered by hormonal changes. The term acne refers to not only pimples on the face, but blackheads, cysts, and nodules as well. Some people get acne on other parts of their body too, such as the back and chest. Acne treatment by a dermatologist is important because acne left unchecked can often lead to permanent scars and dark facial spots. 2 . AT O P I C D E R M AT I T I S ( E C Z E M A ) Atopic dermatitis is one of the most common forms of eczema seen in children. The exact cause of atopic dermatitis is not known, but researchers believe it may involve genetics, the environment, and/or the immune system. Atopic dermatitis can appear on the face (especially in infants), hands, feet or in the creases and folds of the skin. Dry, scaly and itchy skin are the norm, and constant scratching may lead to a thickened area. While eczema often occurs in people with allergies, allergies do not cause eczema. 3. SHINGLES (HERPES ZOSTER) Shingles virus (herpes zoster) results in a red, blistered rash that may wrap a r o u n d y o u r t o r s o o r a p p e a r a n y w h e r e o n y o u r b o d y . A f e v e r, f a t i g u e a n d h e a d a c h e m a y o c c u r, t o o . S h i n g l e s i s c a u s e d b y t h e s a m e v i r u s t h a t c a u s e s chickenpox - the varicella-zoster virus. If you've had chickenpox, you're at risk for shingles as the chickenpox virus lies dormant (not active) in your nervous system for years. 4. HIVES (URTICARIA) Hives are the familiar welts (raised, red, itchy areas) that can occur on the skin. Common causes of hives include medication, food, and bug bites or stings. 5. SUNBURN There's no doubt - it's easier to prevent a sunburn than to treat one. Sunburns occur when there is too much exposure to ultraviolet (UV ) light from the sun or sunlamps. The skin turns red, painful, hot to the touch, and may even peel away. It's hard to know how much time is safe in the sun, though, even with sunscreen protection. Repeated sunburns, especially as a child, can boost the risk for skin cancer later in life. Usually sunscreen needs to be reapplied every 2 hours, but you may just need to get out of the soon, too. 6 . C O N T A C T D E R M AT I T I S Most of us have had contact dermatitis - when we touch something that evolves into a skin reaction. Contact dermatitis is a type of eczema, and may come from plants ( poison ivy, sumac, oak), jewellery, latex gloves, and irrit a n t s l i k e b l e a c h o r s o a p s . To p r e v e n t c o n t a c t d e r m a t i t i s , a v o i d t h e o b j e c t when possible. 7. ROSACEA Rosacea is a chronic swelling of the face, with redness, prominent blood vessels, and pimples. Rosacea is most common in women over 30, but men can be affected too. Problems with the immune system, vein problems and/or environmental issues can cause the condition. 8. BASAL CELL CARCINOMA B a s a l c e l l c a r c i n o m a ( B C C ) i s t h e m o s t c o m m o n t y p e o f s k i n c a n c e r. B C C grows in the upper basal cells of your skin but rarely spreads and is curable. Yo u m a y b e p r o n e t o B C C s i f y o u s p e n d l o t s o f t i m e i n t h e s u n o r u s e a t a n ning bed frequently. Growths commonly occur on the head, ears, nose, and neck. They can look shiny, red and scaly, or like an open sore.
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E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
S K I N A N A LY S I S • SKIN STRUCTURE – The skin is the largest organ of the body. It makes up approximately 5% of the body’s weight. It is more than a wrapping; it is a living organ with vital functions that interact with other internal organs. Skin protects the body rom harmful elements in the environment such as UV radiation, foreign substances, bacteria and harmful chemicals – Skin shows how healthy the body is, it continually eliminates wastes, secretes protective lubricants, grows hair and nails and is instrumental in producing and shedding skin cells. – The skins harmonious balance with the environment allows it to react to many internal and external stimuli. Any subtle changes in either of these factors will be reflected through the skin. Some examples of the skins reactions to stimuli are blushing when embarrassed, retaining heat when cold, perspiring when hot or eating spicy food and turning red when sunburned •SKIN STRUCTURE (Cross Section) –The parts of the skin: skin is made up of 3 parts: the EPIDERMIS, the DERMIS and the HYPODERMIS
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E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
–EPIDERMIS • The epidermis is the outermost protective part of the skin. It resists cuts, scrapes and the entry of certain chemical substance. The skin can absorb some substances, however water on the skin can be absorbed into the epidermis to soften and plump the skin. Other substances on the skin can get into the skin through the hair follicles and sweat glands • T h e e p i d e r m i s i s d i v i d e d i n t o 5 l a y e r s : k e r a t i n l a y e r, c l e a r l a y e r, g r a n u l a r l a y e r, p r i c k l e l a y e r a n d b a s a l l a y e r. I t c o n s i s t s o f v a r i o u s c e l l s t r u c t u r e s w i t h various functions • The keratin layer is the outmost barrier layer of the skin. It is composed of protein, water and lipids and consists of ten to twenty layers of flattered cells. Keratin comes in two forms, hard and soft. Hair and nails are made of hard keratin and skin is made of soft keratin. The keratin surface of the epidermis is coated with an oily substance called sebum which helps the skin retain moisture to keep it soft and smooth. Sebum also protects and waterproofs the skin and stops the growth of certain bacteria and fungi • T h e c l e a r l a y e r i s f o u n d b e n e a t h t h e k e r a t i n l a y e r. U n d e r t h e c l e a r l a y e r i s the granular layer and next is the prickle layer • A t t h e b o t t o m o f t h e e p i d e r m i s i s t h e b a s a l l a y e r, w h i c h m a k e s n e w c e l l s . A s t h e n e w c e l l s t r a v e l u p w a r d t h r o u g h e a c h l a y e r, t h e y g r a d u a l l y l o s e t h e i r ability to absorb and respirate. They become flat and die to produce the keratin layer and slowly fall off the surface. This whole cycle is called keratinisat i o n a n d i t n o r m a l l y t a k e s a b o u t 2 4 t o 3 0 d a y s d e p e n d i n g o n a p e r s o n’ s a g e . Melanin cells are also present in the basal layer and they produce a brown/b l a c k p i g m e n t w h i c h g i v e s s k i n i t s c o l o u r. M e l a n i n p r o v i d e s p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t UV radiation. Everyone has a similar number of melanin cells, but the amount of pigment varies from person to person.
–DERMIS • The dermis is the middle part of the skin. It is made of connective tissue, blood vessels, oil and sweat glands, nerve endings and hair follicles • The connective tissue is made of collagen and elastin proteins. It gives the skin its strength and firmness and makes the skin elastic. • The blood vessels in the dermis provide oxygen to the cells. The cells then release carbon dioxide, and this is called respiration. Elimination is necessary f o r c e l l s i n t h e d e r m i s . Wa s t e s a r e t r a n s p o r t e d a w a y f r o m t h e s k i n b y c a p i l l a r ies and blood vessels • The skin secretes oil (sebum) and sweat through the oil glands (sebaceous glands) and the sweat glands (apocrine and eccrine glands) the amount of oil produced determines the type of skin a person has; normal, oily or dry. Eccrine glands release sweat through openings on the skin surface. Sweat is a m i x t u r e o f e x c e s s w a t e r, s a l t s , s u g a r s , p r o t e i n a n d v i t a m i n s o r n a t u r a l m o i s turising factors. These eccrine glands are everywhere on the body except the lips and mucous membranes. Apocrine glands release sweat and scent through hair follicles • Sensory nerve endings in the dermis let us feel pain, heat, cold and pressure. Some parts of the skin have more nerve endings, like the finger tips and some parts have less, like the lower back. • Hair follicles are in the dermis and a round all over the body, except on the palms of the hands, soles of the feet and the lips.
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–HYPODERMIS • The inner most layer of the skin is the hypodermis and consists primarily of ‘fatty’ tissue. It provides protection and padding for the body. This part of the skin helps the body maintain a temperature of 98.6 F or 37.0 C. it can use blood vessels to warm or sweat glands to cool, or it can make the tiny hairs stand up making ‘goose bumps’ to help retain body heat. • pH: pH is measure of the acidity and alkalinity of a solution. It measures the hydrogen ion concentration in water (H20). The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. Seven is the neutral point. Anything higher than 7 is alkaline and anything lower than 7 is acid. The lower the pH is, the greater the acidity. The higher the pH is, the greater the alkalinity. • Human skin is slightly acidic, usually measuring between 4.5 and 6 on the pH scale. Skin thrives best in an environment that is pH 5.8. the acid mantle of the skin is made up of the oil and sweat the skin produces. The acid mantle protects against bacteria and micro-organisms in the environment. • Products with a pH lower than 3 or greater than 8 may be highly corrosive for the skin. For example, many commercial soap bars are made with harsh detergents which are alkaline. They remove the protective acid mantle from the skin making it dry and sensitive. Using a product with the same pH as the skin will help keep the skin healthy
• PH OF T HE SK I N
• FREE RADICALS A free radical is an atom or a group of atoms with one or more unpaired electrons. Oxygen is a type of atom which can become a radical. When skin is constantly exposed to UV ray, pollution or toxic waste, it can generate oxygen free radicals (oxidising compounds). These free radicals may cause skin to age faster because cells oxidise.
• EFFECTS OF PROLONGED SUN EXPOSURE Minimal exposure to the sun provides a few advantages for the body. It causes production of Vitamin D, metabolism of calcium and the sterilisation of the s k i n ( a n a i d t o s o m e s k i n p r o b l e m s ) . H o w e v e r, t h e d i s a d v a n t a g e s o f s u n e x p o s u r e o u t w e i g h t h e a d v a n t a g e s . M u c h o f t h e d a m a g e c a n b e s e e n i n t h e s k i n’ s outer appearance. Hyperpigmentation (or pigment discolouration) may occur from too much melanin production – causing freckles and blotches. Sunburn can inflame the skin and cause skin sensitivity. The sun can also dehydrate the s k i n , l e a v i n g i t p r o n e t o b a c t e r i a l i n v a s i o n . To o m u c h s u n w i l l b r e a k d o w n a n d destroy the connective tissue (collagen and elastin proteins) and cause premature aging. Skin cancer (melanoma, carcinoma etc) may also result from overexposure to the sun.
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– U V A & U V B R AY S • T h e r e a r e 3 t y p e s o f u l t r a v i o l e t ( U V ) r a y s e m i t t e d b y t h e s u n : U VA , U V B a n d UVC. While the atmosphere’s ozone layer shields us from the majority of the m o s t p o w e r f u l U V C r a y s , t h e U V l i g h t t h a t r e a c h e s t h e e a r t h ( U VA a n d U V B ) may cause damage to the skin. The simplest way to differentiate the two is to s a y t h a t l o n g e r w a v e l e n g t h U VA r a y s c o n t r i b u t e t o p r e m a t u r e a g e i n g o f t h e skin while shorter wavelengths UVB rays cause sun burn. A = Ageing; B = B u r n i n g . I t i s i m p o r t a n t t o p r o t e c t a g a i n s t b o t h U VA a n d U V B r a y s d a i l y . – H O W U V R AY S E F F E C T T H E S K I N To t a l e x p o s u r e t o s k i n r a d i a t i o n i s d e t e r m i n e d b y s e v e r a l f a c t o r s ; Ozone: More UV radiation reaches the earth’s surface now because the ozone layer is thinner in certain global locations • Ti m e : T h e s u n’ s r a y s a r e s t r o n g e s t a t m i d d a y, b e t w e e n 1 0 a m t o 2 p m • Season: UV radiations can be stronger in summer than in winter • L a t i t u d e : S u n’ s r a y s a r e m o r e d i r e c t o r c o n c e n t r a t e d c l o s u r e t o t h e e q u a t o r • Altitude: In higher altitudes, the thinner atmosphere gives less protection from ultraviolet rays • Clouds: Cloudy days give little protection. Up to 60% of the suns radiation can still reach the skin.
– I R R I T AT I O N S & A L L E R G I E S Contact dermatitis is a local inflammation of the skin. It is caused by substances that come into direct contact with the skin. The inflammation may be effect of irritation or allergy. – I R R I T AT I O N S •Irritation, which is caused by a substance, can develop after small or heavy exposure to the substance. The appearance of the skin irritation can vary, depending on the conditions of exposure, from redness to blisters. The irritating substance penetrates the skins outer barriers and causes a reaction in the lower layers. The skin reacts by signalling discomfort and/or redness. Usually an irritation reaction develops within a few hours of exposure to the substance and has a short duration. – T R E AT M E N T ( F O R I R R I T AT I O N S ) •The best treatment is to stop using the irritation substance. The skin can be treated with compresses, mild creams and ointment. The skin should be protected from rubbing and scratching. Also avoid light and temperature changes if the skin is still irritated. –ALLERGY •Allergies differ from irritations in the way they cause reactions in the skin and body. With allergies, the substance penetrates through the outer layers of the skin and triggers the body’s defence system. The priming of the defence or immune system can take from several days to several weeks. During this time, there is usually no sign of skin damage or discomfort. When a sensitised person is re-exposed to the allergy causing substance, the primed cells initiate a cascade reaction, which creates several symptoms including redness, pain, itching, swelling and blisters on the skin. The reaction begins slowly over 24 hours but can last several days. Most people remain allergic to a substance all their lives. Some gradually grow less sensitive over time. People who have allergic reaction to a cosmetic are usually sensitive to an ingredient in the product. – T R E AT M E N T ( F O R A L L E R G I E S ) •Avoid the substance and seek medical attention. A physician will likely prescribe anti-inflammator y drug, ointment or skin cleansers. Protect the area from rubbing and scratching, or sunlight, wind and temperature changes.
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SKIN TYPES To d e t e r m i n e t h e c l i e n t s s k i n t y p e , f i r s t l o o k a t t h e c l i e n t ’ s s k i n . T h e n a s k the client questions concerning his/her skin. Most clients have one of the s k i n t y p e s l i s t e d b e l o w . S o m e , h o w e v e r, m a y h a v e a c o m b i n a t i o n o f s e v e r a l . NORMAL • There is a balance of oil and moisture. It has medium thickness and heathy colouring. Lucky few people have normal skin. Basically, this means that the sebaceous gland ( produces oil) produces a substance called sebum at a sensible rate. This allows for the skin to appear not oily or dry, but looks moist and lively. Please note that this skin type still benefits from constant care. This is an excellent skin base to work with. O I LY • There is a shiny, oily surface. It could have large pores or blackheads. It is caused by genetics, diet and environment. This skin type is the opposite of dry skin. The glands produce too much oil, which results in the skin having m o r e o i l t h a n i t n e e d s , t h e r e f o r e , b r i n g i n g t h e o i l t o t h e s k i n’ s s u r f a c e , making it visible. This skin type does carry the risk of developing blackheads and acne. DRY • There is a matte surface. The skin usually has small pores and is thin. There can be broken capillaries, wrinkles and flakiness. It is caused by genetics, age, diet, drugs, harsh cleansing products and environment. This skin type is caused by underperforming oil glands that do not seem to be p r o d u c i n g a s m u c h o i l a s t h e s k i n n e e d s . D r y s k i n n o r m a l l y a p p e a r s d u l l e r, itchy, patchy, flared up and potentially flaky. As the skin lacks moisture from the glands, it needs to be topped up by regular drinking of water and the adequate skin care products that focus on tackling dry skin. D E H Y D R AT E D • There is a lack of moisture on the surface with flakiness and wrinkles. The skin may feel tight, thin and itchy. It is caused by diet, age, illness, drugs, i m p r o p e r c l e a n s i n g , i n d o o r h e a t i n g a n d a i r- c o n d i t i o n i n g a n d e n v i r o n m e n t . ACNEIC • There are blackheads and/or whiteheads, pimples, inflammation, cystic acne, open pores, shiny surface, scars and sensitivity. It is caused by genetics, stress, diet, drugs, poor digestion or improper cleansing. C O M B I N AT I O N • There are oily areas, dry areas and acneic areas. It is caused by the same factors as listed above SENSITIVE • The skin is thin with redness or inflammation. It can be caused by allergies, nervousness or an imbalance in the amount of oil the skin produces. This skin type can be either dry, normal or oily. Sensitive skin is most likely to be prone to an allergic reaction to beauty care / makeup products. It can flare up and become itchy reacting to environmental conditions.
SKIN CONDITIONS SKIN DISORDERS – A client with a skin condition that you do not recognise to be a simple disorder should be referred to a physician. If the skin is weeping, oozing, bleeding, blistered or inflamed, do not touch.
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– Ca mou f l a g e i s no t a p pr opr i at e w hen the s k i n i s b r ok en , a s it i s i n the proces s of healing. Share this information with the client. Often the client m ay not b e awar e o f the c onditi on until it i s b rought to hi s / her attenti on . Us e di s cr eti on , dip lom a c y and t a ct – Most skin pro blems are minor, but some, such as eczema, psoriasis, seborrhoea, vitiligo and c ystic acne may require medical attention. It is important for a doctor to correctly identify the specific pro blem, so a proper treatment can be used. – A cne is one of the most common skin disorders. It can be a blackhead or a pimple, but could be as bad as deep c ystic acne which may cause scars. A cne can b e cau s e d or a g gr av ate d by s tr e s s , met a b o li c di s tur b anc e , hor mo nal , imb alanc e s , p oor dige s ti on s , dr ugs , geneti c or p oor health
T R E AT M E N T ( F O R S K I N B L E M I S H E S ) – If blemishes are caused by neglecting skin care or poor hygiene, try to k e e p t h e s k i n’ s s u r f a c e c l e a n b y u s i n g a p H b a l a n c e d p r o d u c t . N o n - a l k a l i n e skin care products are recommended for this purpose. Use cleansers and moisturisers that are compatible with oily or acne skin. These products contain ingredients that will not clog pores.
T I P S
A N D
T E C H N I Q U E S
- Makeup for Dry Skin Use products such as; • Creams / Paste / Liquid-moisture based Avoid products such as; • Powders / mattifying - Makeup for Oily Skin Use products such as; • Choose a moisturiser that is created specifically for oily skin types • Oil free products / Powder based Avoid products such as; • Dewy/moisture products - Sensitive Skin: Use products such as; • Allergy tested or state ‘hypoallergenic’ products Avoid products such as; • Dewy/moisture products
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S K I N
I N V E S T I G A T I O N
These are the questions you should ask the clientele to be able to prepare the skin appropriately before applying makeup; – What skin type do you think you are? – What skincare are you currently using? – When wearing makeup, what happens to your skin throughout the day? It is important to determine your client’s skin as the base (skin) will ultimately dictate how the makeup will look or last on the client. Additionally, as a makeup professional, you’ll also know what makeup products to use or not to use depending on the client’s skin type i.e. matte finish foundation would not
F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
1. What do you do if your client is unsure of their skin type or give you the wrong information? Not a problem, investigate yourself by feeling the skin – does it feel dry? Is there redness to the skin? Does the skin naturally glow? Make a professional judgement and during the makeup application you see the skin starts to change or react to the product, no biggi – make the adjustments with the correct products.
2. What questions do you ask your client to understand their skin type? K e y q u e s t i o n s s u c h a s – w h a t ’ s y o u r s k i n l i k e ? D r y , o i l y , n o r m a l ? Wa i t f o r t h e answer and then dig deeper i.e. if they reply with ‘oily but really dry too’ – look at the skin, can you see redness? If yes then bam they have dry skin.
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F R E Q U E N T LY
A S K E D
Q U E S T I O N S
3. Can we recommend skincare products if we feel the one’s they are using is incorrect or not working? Ye s o f c o u r s e , r e m e m b e r e s p e c i a l l y a t c o n s u l t a t i o n / t r i a l s t a g e , i f y o u p i c k u p that the skincare products are wrong. It’s the perfect time to recommend the right products for there skin as they will have enough time to fix the skin before there wedding day, which ultimately makes your makeup application task a l o t e a s i e r.
D I D
Y O U
K N O W ?
Makeup strips your skin of natural oils which accentuates pores and causes dryness. This will produce a build-up of dead skin on the surface of your face, which can lead to clogged pores and reduces your skin's ability to absorb the n u t r i e n t s f o u n d i n b o t h m o i s t u r i z e r a n d S P F. Using old makeup and skin-care products or sponges or brushes that have become contaminated with bacteria or yeast can cause skin irritations or infections. This may show up as red, dry irritated patches or small red bumps or pus bumps. Sunscreen should be applied as a part of your regular skin-care routine. Not practicing sun-smart behaviours on an everyday basis will lead to fine lines, wrinkles, skin sagging, discolorations and other signs of premature aging of the skin.
E S S E N T I A L
K N O W L E D G E
O n e o f, i f n o t t h e m o s t c o m m o n q u e s t i o n m a k e u p a r t i s t s g e t a s k e d i s h o w t o make foundation look flawless. And you know what? Almost every single one of them will tell you it starts with skin care. Sure, makeup artists might spend their days knee-deep in base products, but 99.9 percent of the time t h e y b e g i n b y p r e p p i n g t h e i r c l i e n t ' s s k i n w i t h s e r u m , m o i s t u r i s e r, m a y b e a hydrating mask — hell, sometimes all three — purely because they know that nothing they put on top will look right if the skin isn't in superior shape.
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T I P S
A N D
s k i n c a r e
T E C H N I Q U E S
m a t r i x
s k i n c a r e p r e p - A n y b r a n d
&
p r i m e
m a t r i x
C O L O U R
T H E O R Y
Choosing the right colours for a makeup look is very important and can make the difference between an amazing overall look and an average look. Colour theory will help bala n c e y o u r c o l o u r s a n d t o n e s t o c o m p l i m e n t t h e l o o k y o u ’ r e g o i n g f o r.
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Primar y colours; The primar y colours are yellow, red and blue. These colours are pure and can not be obtained by combining other colours Secondary colours; Are derived by mixing two primary colours. They are orange, green and purple. Maximum contrast is created when a primary colour is combined on the face with its opposite secondary colour; red with green, yellow with purple and blue with orange. Mix a primary with a secondary colour to obtain intermediate colours such as turquoise and lime green. Colour families; The rainbow can be divided into two broad categories of colour; cool and warm. Cool and warm hues can be combined to yield neutral shades.
S K I N
C O L O U R I N G
When determining the clients skin undertone, refer to the colour wheel. Skin tones are cool (golden) or warm (rosy). As colour values vary from light to dark, skin colouring will also vary in tonal value (light, medium, dark and deep dark). Most skin tones fall into the neutral category – meaning the skin has a mostly equal balance of cool and warm undert o n e s . To c o r r e c t l y m a t c h t h e u n d e r t o n e , i d e n t i f y t h e p r e d o m i n a t e u n d e r t o n e t h a t y o u s e e in your client’s skin. If the correct tonal value and undertone are accurate, the colour swatch will blend with the client’s skin tone. If the colour is incorrect, the foundation will appear too cool/warm or light/dark.
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C O L O U R
S E L E C T I O N
Many combinations may suit the clients age, personality and lifestyle. When making colour s e l e c t i o n s a l s o c o n s i d e r t h e f o l l o w i n g f a c t o r s ; s k i n t o n e , h a i r c o l o u r, e y e c o l o u r a n d outfit. When adding colour to the face, keep it simple. The most common mistake is to use too many colours all at once. Balance and simplicity are required for a pleasing makeup. If you know the colour wheel spectrum of combinations and what your customer needs, you will be able to make good choices that enhance your clients feature. COOL COLOURING Cool colours are dominated by blue. They include blues, blue-greens, greens, greys, violet, purples and mauves. People whose colouring is cool have green, blue or grey eyes; f a i r s k i n a n d a s h b l o n d e o r w h i t e h a i r. C o o l c o l o u r s a r e a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e o c e a n a n d a r e r e l a x i n g a n d s o o t h i n g . T h e s e c o l o u r s a r e a s s o c i a t e d w i t h f a l l a n d w i n t e r. WA R M C O L O U R I N G Wa r m c o l o u r s a r e d o m i n a t e d b y y e l l o w . T h e y i n c l u d e b r o w n s , b e i g e s , l i g h t g r e e n s , o r a n g es, yellows, reds and golds. People with warm colouring have brown eyes; honey, black and brown complexions; and include those of Asian, Middle eastern or African origin. T h e i r h a i r c o l o u r w i l l b e b r o w n , b l a c k , m a h o g a n y , r e d o r g o l d . Wa r m c o l o u r s a r e l i k e n e d t o t h e s u n a n d a s s o c i a t e d w i t h s p r i n g a n d s u m m e r. Av o i d u s i n g w a r m c o l o u r s o n a p e r s o n with irritated skin.
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