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From Chris Yeo, Valuer at Clevedon Salerooms and regular expert on BBC’s Antiques Roadshow

All I want for Christmas is a Jelly Mould

Alittle Christmas robin tells me that you’ve decided to cast caution to the wind and throw a festive party par excellence. How wonderful! You’ve printed the invitations, the playlist has been organised and the bar well-stocked, which just leaves the important matter of what to serve your expectant guests. Might I suggest jelly? You may be sceptical but hear me out. Having spent decades in the gastronomic wasteland, the wibbly-wobbly stuff is shaking off its homespun image and enjoying a renaissance amongst the influencers of social media. For once, I’m in total agreement with the too-cool-for-school brigade. After all, who but the most po-faced amongst us hasn’t been captivated by the sight of a spectacular shimmering jelly? Those in search of seasonal ‘wow’ factor, should look no further.

Its unfortunate reputation as childrens’ party fodder belies the fact that for centuries jelly was synonymous with the most ambitious haute cuisine. During the Victorian era jelly making reached heights of gravitydefying brilliance, as chefs in the great aristocratic houses and best London hotels competed to create showstopping wobblers that were as much design statements as culinary ones. Thanks to the Industrial Revolution, the British became undisputed masters of the jelly mould. Manufacturers adapted the die-stamping techniques of their colleagues in the silver trade to the mass-production of copper moulds in elaborate shapes – each one a miniature architectural masterpiece – lined with tin. The tin was important because it stopped the taste of the copper tainting the jelly and, more importantly, prevented your guests from dropping down dead with verdigris poisoning. By the late 19th century, manufacturers were illustrating hundreds of designs in their catalogues –fantastical, multi-tiered geometric crowns, turreted castles with scrolling minarets, embossed with all manner of birds, animals, fruits and flowers. So esteemed were British jelly moulds that chefs from the Continent were known to cross the Channel in search of the ultimate mould. They are still. Collectors have been known to pay over £1,000 for rare designs. If I find one in my stocking, I shall be very happy. Merry Christmas! ■ • clevedonsalerooms.com; @chrisyeo_antiques (Instagram)