STRIKE A POSE

Photograph by Steve Lee Photoworks

Talk hat talk

We’ve been short of major events recently, but as opportunities open up and we are able to gather once again to celebrate life’s special occasions, it’s time to find the hat that will give you an uber-stylish factor –let us introduce milliner Annabel Allen

Certain hats keep your ears warm; others are designed to raise you up to another level. The hats of Annabel Allen Millinery offer the latter. She uses traditional millinery techniques to transform the finest quality materials in her Bristol studio into highly elegant, original and easy-to-wear statement hats and headpieces.

After training as a pattern cutter under the Saville Row Apprenticeship Scheme in London in 2007, Annabel embarked upon an early career in the fashion industry, working for brands such as Pringle of Scotland, Temperley London and The Gucci Group. It was not until moving to Sydney in 2010 that Annabel was introduced to millinery, a discipline that allowed her to combine traditional tailoring skills with highly intricate and imaginative design concepts.

Upon returning to the UK and moving to Bristol in 2013, Annabel continued her millinery training, subsequently setting up Annabel Allen Millinery. Here she tells us more.

TBM: Do you have a physical shop or do people come to you for private consultations?

Annabel: I don't have a physical shop, so I operate by appointment only from my studio, online or over the phone. For people who would rather not come to the studio in person but would like a face-to-face consultation the online appointments work really well –I am in my studio and can pull out all the different hats and communicate design ideas visually with the materials to hand. For those who would rather visit, there is plenty of space to maintain Covid-safe guidelines and clients are welcome to try on a variety of pieces from my collection so that we can work out which styles they feel most comfortable in and which best complements their outfit, if they have one. I can create most pieces in any colour, whether it is bespoke or a design from my existing collection.

TBM: Do you have a preferred fabric or medium to work with?

Annabel: I love working with traditional millinery materials such as straw, felt, feathers and silk as their natural properties provide endless inspiration for both classic and contemporary designs. However, recently I was introduced to thermoplastics, which I am getting very excited about. They are a group of plastics that can be manipulated with heat to create some really interesting designs. They are very robust yet lightweight (hence they are often used for theatrical pieces) and they can be heated and re-used so people could bring back their old hats and have them re-created into something new.

TBM: Who or what are your inspirations and how would you define your style?

Annabel: Growing up in the nineties I was obsessed with Alexander McQueen and I still have books of his designs close to hand when I am in need of inspiration. His scrupulous attention to detail both in the aesthetics of his designs as well as the workmanship in creating them was phenomenal. I am also a details person and spend hours dissecting designs to create interesting variations on a theme, while simultaneously using my millinery skills to ensure that the resulting piece not only looks beautiful but is comfortable to wear.

TBM: How long does each creation take from design to final piece?

Annabel: The process of designing and making a hat varies hugely depending on the design and the materials being used. For bespoke pieces we usually come up with an overall design during the consultation which I then follow up with a sketch and a written description to confirm. I then usually allow 3–4 weeks for the creation of the hat, often sending photos throughout the process to make sure that the client is happy with the direction of the design; allowing them to request any changes or additional fittings before I have finished.

TBM: What are the considerations when buying a special occasion hat for the first time?

Annabel: Staying true to yourself is really important as you want to feel confident in what you wear –however, don’t let pre-conceptions hold you back from trying new styles. If you are able to, then try a variety of shapes, sizes and colours to work out what suits you and makes you feel amazing –this often turns out to be a style that you hadn't considered before.

Don’t fall for the myth that you need to go big to make an impact; some of the simplest designs are the most striking. Finally, make sure it fits! You don't want spend all that money on your outfit for all the photos to be of you holding your hat on, or having to take it off early to stop the headaches. It is worth spending a little more to make sure that it sits on your head effortlessly while you focus on enjoying your day. ■

Photograph by Steve Lee Photoworks

Alisa hat, £395

• info@annabelallenmillinery.co.uk; annabelallenmillinery.co.uk

Photograph by Steve Haddon Photography Photograph by Steve Lee Photoworks Photograph by Steve Lee Photoworks

Ottolie headpiece, £195 Jemima hat, £285 Dulcie hat, £295