HISTORY

Salute to Ciren

For an autumnal day trip avoiding tourist crowds, Andrew Swift recommends one of the most elegant and self-assured market towns in England –a glorious juxtaposition of the imposing and the vernacular

Although few towns have such a resounding name as Cirencester, it’s long been regarded as too fancy for everyday use. As far back as the 16th century, it was shortened to Cicister. Today, many know it simply as Ciren, which trips more easily off the tongue. Nothing encapsulates as neatly as this dual identity the unique character of a town where grandeur and homeliness rub shoulders so amicably.

Few towns have such an illustrious history as Cirencester – or Ciren – but in few towns is that history less apparent. It was founded – as Corinium Dobunnorum – by the Romans, and was the second largest city in Britain after Londinium. All there is to show for it today, though, is a short length of broken-down wall, a grass-grown amphitheatre out beyond the bypass and a collection of mosaics and columns in the town’s museum.

From the ruins of the Roman city a new town arose, where in 1176 an abbey was consecrated in the presence of Henry II. It became the richest Augustinian abbey in England, but, after its dissolution in 1539, it was razed to the ground. Nothing of it survives apart from a few perimeter walls and a gatehouse hidden in woods on the edge of town.

Even before the abbey went, though, Cirencester was a boom town. In the late middle ages, wool was the lynchpin of England’s economy. Cirencester, surrounded by some of the finest sheep pastures in the country, grew rich. Wealthy merchants built townhouses in the narrow streets north of the Market Place, but, grand though they were, there was no standing on ceremony. They stood amid weavers’ cottages and warehouses, built, like them, of the local stone, and creating a townscape of surpassing variety and interest. Profits from the wool trade also funded the building of the church of St John the Baptist, the largest in Gloucestershire, which dominates the Market Place. It was to have been even grander, with one of the highest spires in England. Inadvertently, however, the tower’s foundations had been laid in a filled-in Roman ditch. When they started to give way, the builders hurriedly revised their plans, erecting buttresses to prevent the tower’s collapse.

By the end of the 18th century, the wool trade was in decline, but Cirencester was still a force to be reckoned with –so much so that it was the first town in Gloucestershire to be linked by rail to London, on 31 May 1841, a month earlier than Bristol. Any hopes that the town would become an industrial hub soon faded, however. The town didn’t exactly slumber on; it remained what it had been for centuries, a prosperous market town, content to let industry go elsewhere. The railway was soon downgraded to a branch line and in 1966 it closed altogether, so that Brunel’s station now lies stranded in a car park on the edge of town.

We owe an immense debt to those who set their faces against the modern age. Industrial expansion would have destroyed what had been maturing for centuries – one of the most elegant and selfassured market towns in England.

For lovers of old buildings, the narrow, tightly packed streets north of the Market Place are among the country’s most richly rewarding. Dating largely from the 17th and 18th centuries, though with much that is earlier, there are surprises round every corner – a four-storey wool merchant’s house in Coxwell Street, complete with counting house and warehouse, the arches of a 12th-century hospital in Spitalgate Street, cottages in Gloucester Street with massive stones from the demolished abbey built into their walls – and everywhere that glorious juxtaposition of the imposing and the vernacular.

Cirencester’s stand-out building, though, is its most improbable. The three-storey porch of St John’s church dates from the early Tudor period. Its elaborate ornamentation would not look out of place on a palace and it manages the seemingly impossible –outshining the church to which it is the entrance. But that is what it was intended to do. The nave and tower of the church were built by the townsfolk, but the Market Place – along with much else –belonged to the abbey. It was the monks who built the porch as an office from where they could regulate trade – a potent reminder of their determination to resist attempts by the citizens of Cirencester to infringe their prerogatives or seek borough status for the town. Little wonder that the townsfolk hated them; little wonder too that, once the abbey was gone, they used the porch as their town hall.

Cirencester isn’t just about old buildings, however. Few towns are so blessed with open spaces. When the abbey was pulled down, a mansion was erected in its stead. The abbey grounds became rolling parkland, its fishponds an ornamental lake. The mansion has now followed the abbey into oblivion and the parkland, entered through a gateway beside the church, is open to all.

On the other side of town – all of five minutes’ walk away – is Cirencester House, for over 300 years the home of the Earls of Bathurst. Although screened from the town by a high wall and an even higher yew hedge, the 3,000 acre park beyond it, dotted with 18th-century follies, is also open to anyone wishing to visit.

With so much going for it, it may seem surprising that Cirencester is no tourist honeypot. Wander through the narrow streets north of the Market Place, and the chances are you’ll have them more or less to yourself. Even Cecily Hill, the only wide street, apart from the Market Place, in the old town, which leads into Cirencester Park and is often cited as one of the loveliest streets in England, is unlikely to be that busy.

In the heart of town, though, it’s a different story. The narrow streets around the Market Place will, as likely as not, be teeming –but not with tourists. Cirencester is proud of its claim to be the Capital of the Cotswolds, fulfilling the role it has fulfilled for centuries – as a market town.

And, although this is the Cotswolds, this doesn’t just mean highend boutiques and antique emporia. A traditional market is held in the Market Place twice a week. There’s also a regular farmers’ market, while the nearby Corn Hall hosts craft fairs, as well as the Home, Fashion and Garden Bazaar. And, in the busiest, narrowest street of all, Black Jack Street – named after the soot-blackened figure of John the Baptist which once looked down on it from a niche in the church tower – you’ll find an independent bookshop, a sweetshop, a baker’s, two traditional pubs and a butcher’s, established in 1808, still with its superbly tiled frontage.

Whether you call it Cirencester or Ciren, and for whatever reason you might fancy going there, this is a town well worth a visit. ■

Cirencester was a force to be reckoned with –the first town in Gloucestershire to be linked by rail to London, a month earlier than Bristol

• There are several car parks in Cirencester, but the cheapest longstay option is at the Beeches, just off the ring road on the east side of town (GL7 1BW). For more information, check out cirencester.co.uk; cirencester.gov.uk

Embrace your space

Wondering what’s falling into fashion this autumn? Our interiors guide is brimming with the city’s most cherished design, decor and DIY experts, all of whom are ready and waiting to bring your home into the new season in sensational style...

MANDARIN STONE

15 Regent Street, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4HW 0117 9731552; mandarinstone.com

Renowned for its comprehensive natural stone collection, Mandarin Stone has also gained quite a reputation for its ontrend and beautifully designed porcelain. Ranging from tiles that cleverly mimic materials such as wood, concrete and marble to striking glazed and patterned tiles, the collection has endless surface design possibilities. Established for over 25 years and with 10 inspirational UK showrooms, it offers dependable specialist knowledge as well as technical expertise. Almost the entire natural stone and porcelain collection is held in stock in the UK, so lead times are short.

BONITI

Dunsdon Barn, West Littleton, Wiltshire SN14 8JA; 01225 892200; boniti.com

Run by Giles and Simon Lunt, Boniti is a high-quality interiors (and exteriors) business, whose showroom is a destination for all types of natural stone, porcelain and timber flooring, as well as decorative tiles, stoneware, Kadai firebowls, garden furniture, homeware accessories and the very desirable Everhot range cookers. Boniti has an impressive client list of property developers and a specialist bespoke service that can supply and fit worldwide. When it comes to any project –large or small –the Boniti team are masters of their profession and it shows in every detail. You can reach the showroom easily from junction 18 of the M4.

COLOURFENCE BRISTOL

colourfencebristol.co.uk; 0117 259 1789

If you’re looking to spruce up your garden this season, or if your fence was struggling to withstand some of the colder recent weather then you need look no further than ColourFence. ColourFence metal fencing needs very little aftercare and can stand winds of up to 130mph meaning less time spent painting fences and more time spent enjoying your surroundings. As well as steel fencing, they also offer ColourRail and ColourShed, so get in touch today and take the first step to investing longer-term in your outdoor spaces.

BRACEY INTERIORS

15 Waterloo Street, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4BT; 0117 9734664; braceyinteriors.co.uk

With over 50 years’ experience, Bracey Interiors has earned an enviable reputation for its design services. Working throughout the UK and abroad, the team creates unique and bespoke interiors for clients. Within the showroom in the heart of Clifton Village, Bracey showcases fabrics and wallpapers from all the major suppliers as well as a unique and eclectic mix of home accessories. Paints by Little Greene and Paint & Paper Library are also mixed to order in a matter of minutes. No matter how big or small your requirements are, Bracey Interiors has friendly staff ready to help. With their own workrooms they ensure all soft furnishings are made to their exacting standards, and offer an installation service. 2017 saw their Silver House project win three awards in the RSAW Welsh Architecture Awards.

PAUL WHITTAKER

BATHROOMS AND WETROOMS

Showroom by appointment at Bathroom Solutions, 54 Redcliff Street, Bristol BS1 6LS 0117 2230086 / 07879 666221; paulwhittakerbathrooms.co.uk

Paul Whittaker Bathrooms and Wetrooms is a design, supply and installation bathroom company with a huge reputation in the Bristol area. Working closely with his clients, Paul is able to deliver cleverly designed bathrooms and wetrooms, expertly installed by his experienced team of fitters. With 3D design layouts to help with decision making and project management through the course of the works, Paul Whittaker makes bathroom renovations easy and stress-free.

WREN KITCHENS

Cribbs Causeway Retail Park, Lysander Road, Bristol BS34 5TX 0117 2443168; wrenkitchens.com

A visit to the Wren Kitchens website reveals an exceptional choice of over 60 kitchens in three ranges to suit all tastes and pockets. The Vogue, Infinity and Infinity Plus collections are further divided into modern, Shaker and traditional styles, allowing you to create your own perfect kitchen. Add to this your choice of handles and thousands of unit sizes and you’re well on your way to creating a truly unique room which will be the heart of your home for many years to come. Book a showroom appointment for a free consultation with one of Wren’s expert kitchen designers; chat about layout and design requirements; see a personalised 3D design and get a quick price estimate, with no obligation to buy. Whether you’re looking to follow the latest colour trends or choose something timeless and classic, Wren will have the kitchen for you.

ORIENTAL RUGS OF BATH

Bookbarn International, Hallatrow Business Park, Bristol BS39 6EX 01761 451764; orientalrugsofbath.com

Situated in the rolling countryside between Bristol and Bath, Oriental Rugs of Bath is home to a wonderful collection of handcrafted carpets, rugs, runners and kilims from the Middle and Far East, where these crafts have sustained their peoples for centuries. Unique furnishings such as Turkish kilim upholstered sofas and silk suzani cushions pair perfectly for any interior design project. Personalised on approval services are available and expert advice is provided for bespoke orders and specialist cleaning and repair enquiries. Open seven days a week with free nationwide delivery. Visit the website to buy online and feel inspired.

JOHN BOYCE PLASTERWORK

Unit 5, Channel View Farm, Clevedon, Bristol BS21 6US 07970 278028; john-boyce.co.uk

John Boyce Plasterwork Ltd is a locally based company with over 30 years’ experience in the plastering trade, tackling any size of job from a simple repair to a complete restoration project. The team has a large range of moulds built up over the last three decades and is capable of matching and reproducing any type of plasterwork. The company also has a large range of stock cornices and ceiling roses to pick from, with something to suit most tastes and budgets.

They carry out ceiling surveys and repairs, lime plastering and rendering and bespoke one-off pieces; offering free, no-obligation quotes and advice. Visit the website for a taste of what John Boyce Plasterwork can offer.

ARCHITECT YOUR HOME

0800 0515304; architect-yourhome.com

Architect Your Home’s service kicks off with an initial design consultation in your home – think of this as the real starting point of your project. It will provide you with sketch drawings of a properly considered and collaborative design proposal, help you develop a clear understanding of the practical implications of your design and equip you with the necessary tools so that you can move your project forward confidently to the next stage. During the consultation there will be an in-depth discussion to fully establish requirements and aspirations, a set of sketch design drawings showing the proposals, advice on planning permission/listed building consents/structure etc, an agreed proposal by the end of the session, and recommendations on the next steps and how to move the project forward.

SJP INTERIOR DESIGN

SJP Interior Design, 36 The Mall, Clifton Village, Bristol BS8 4DS 01179 730880; sjpinteriordesign.co.uk

SJP Interior Design makes the process simple and enjoyable from start to finish. They truly take the time to understand each and every client’s needs and together they create not just great schemes, but inspiring places that ooze quality. Not only do they have an in-depth market knowledge, they also have the full set of skills needed to carry out a smooth and successful project. With continuous research into the everchanging interior style trends across the UK, the team are confident that they always create relevant and impressive proposals that really incorporate both their own knowledge, and the client’s own style.

SJP offers a range of services, from residential and commercial interior design to furniture rental and home staging. As established interior designers and property developers, they fully understand the value of creating a desirable space that allows their client’s potential home buyers to really visualise not just the property itself, but the aspirational lifestyle that comes with it. This undoubtedly helps maximise both the sales value of a house and also the speed of the sale. As a business, their ethos really is to make each and every project, big or small, one to be proud of.

GARDEN AFFAIRS

Trowbridge Garden Centre, 288 Frome Road, Trowbridge BA14 ODT 01225 774566; gardenaffairs.co.uk

Garden Affairs specialises in made-to-measure, high-quality garden buildings. The extensive display of top-notch garden offices, posh sheds, summerhouses and gazebos can all be made to the size and style you require – flexibility is what they’re all about here. Take a look at the range of garden rooms –with contemporary concepts that solve the problem of space constraints, especially in city gardens. The Linea range of modern, Scandi-style cabins are perfect for all uses, comply with most planning guidelines and look great too. Garden Affairs offers a fixed-price installation service throughout the UK, or you can choose for a DIY kit to be delivered to your door.

THE KITCHEN PARTNERS

The Kitchen Partners Design Studio, 102 Whiteladies Road, Bristol BS8 2QY 0117 9466433; thekitchenpartners.co.uk

When you work with The Kitchen Partners on Whiteladies Road, you’ll work directly with Fiona, Clinton and Vicky –from the initial enquiry, throughout the design process, to the final completion. They will ensure the journey always begins with you. It’s your kitchen and your home and you will be a fundamental part of the process, with access to all trades involved. The Kitchen Partners are design, planning and installation professionals dedicated to giving each client their dream kitchen. As a fully independent retailer they can offer clients not only a greater variety of choice, but the best quality prices and lead times when considering a kitchen restoration. They have a keen eye for up-to-theminute kitchen design and extensive product knowledge, based on many years working in the kitchen and interior design sectors. With innovative spatial awareness and flair for interior design, they will make sure your visit to their kitchen design studio is a worthwhile and rewarding experience.

GARDINER HASKINS

Brunel Rooms, 1 Straight Street, Bristol BS2 0FQ 0117 9292288; gardinerhaskins.co.uk

Gardiner Haskins Interiors has luxury interior showrooms that allow you to create your dream home space. Its knowledgeable and skilled team of design experts can help you design your own bespoke kitchen or bathroom, with wrap-around project management from start to finish. Create your perfect bedroom with over 40 beds on display from brands such as Harrison, Sleepeeze, Millbrook and Relyon, then blend in beautiful bedroom furniture from Ercol, or wardrobe storage solutions from Wiemann and Nolte. The team has over 40 years’ experience, so you can guarantee exceptional customer service. Open six days a week with a free customer car park and less than 10 minutes’ walk from Cabot Circus.

KINDLE STOVES

Glenavon Farm, 331 Bath Road, Saltford BS31 3TJ 01179 243898; kindlestoves.co.uk

At the heart of your home should be the perfect stove. Kindle Stoves is a local specialist in clean-burning, eco-design ready stoves approved for burning wood in Bristol, with a wood-burner to suit every home and every style. The team stock the super-efficient Woodwarm, Contura and Rais models as well as many more, offering a full installation service –from fireplace alterations, to slate hearths and stone fireplaces. Their lovely showroom, situated just outside Keynsham, has one of the largest displays of wood-burners in the South West and is open six days a week. Pop in for advice and brochures or to book a home survey. They also sell seasoned logs and a Big Green Egg outdoor cooker.

HAL BUILD

The Studio, 23 Chandos Road, Bristol, BS6 6PG 0117 2591591; halbuild.co.uk

Hal Build provides high-end luxury construction projects for residential customers and property developers in Bristol and the surrounding areas. The company specialises in new build construction, extensions and period property refurbishments. All work is carried out to the highest standards and the company employs a team of professional, time-served craftsmen who take pride in every aspect of their workmanship. All projects are completed with exacting attention to detail and the Hal team can handle your entire project from design through to planning and building regulations, to completion. The team are more than happy to chat through your plans to see if they can help and will provide an indicative cost to help with planning your project so pop into the studio for a chat.

NATURAL STONE CONSULTING

Unit 4 Ebdon Bow, Ebdon Road, Wick St Lawrence, BS22 9NZ 0333 444 8899; naturalstoneconsulting.co.uk

Natural Stone Consulting is a family-run business with a passion for natural materials. Its collection of stone flooring, tiles and paving features an ever-evolving range of modern, contemporary, aged and rustic options, which remain affordable for homeowners, designers, architects and trade customers alike. Its products include something to suit any setting and if you can’t find what you are looking for, the team will use their expertise to create or source it directly for you. Materials they supply include limestone, slate, marble and terracotta. Natural Stone Consulting has a new showroom in Wick St Lawrence, just off of M5 junction 21. This is operated by appointment to ensure each client gets their undivided attention.

JUST SHUTTERS

0117 3701594; justshutters.co.uk/bristol

Whatever your style –contemporary, modern, cosy or traditional –Just Shutters have the perfect fit for you. The shutters do not fade, warp or age and come with a lifetime guarantee. Rob and Linda Reeves are experts in the field, trained to the market-leading Just Shutters standard. They are passionate about shutters and transforming the homes of local people, with an understanding of outstanding quality, great value, and professional customer service. Work closely with Rob and Linda as they tailor Just Shutters to your tastes, giving you honest and impartial advice. The company has the largest range of material and finishes in the UK, granting you choice and options in terms of shutter style.

MARBLE SUPREME

Unit 8, Bridge Road, Kingswood, Bristol BS15 4FW 0117 9563030; marblesupreme.com

Marble Supreme provides master craftsmanship in stone. Whether you’re looking for new stone worktops for your kitchen or bathroom, it offers a range of materials to suit your needs. With over 20 years of experience, the team produce a wide range of products from beautifully crafted granite kitchen worktops and flooring, right through to bespoke stone fireplaces, vanity tops, splashbacks and sink surrounds. Marble Supreme provides a complete service –from sourcing the perfect stone to crafting perfectly fitting, beautifully finished kitchen worktops. It also prides itself on delivering the very best in granite, marble and quartz stone, knowing its creations will play a part in family life for years to come. Whether you know what you want or are considering the options, the team is happy to discuss your plans so pop into the Kingswood showroom.