Dear Readers,
No doubt all of the contributors have shown sides we haven’t experienced before, and as a creative team we are now forever Bound and united by the struggles and joys that embody themselves in the pages of this magazine. I don’t think it would be possible to pinpoint the highlight of working on this month’s edition of ‘Bound.’ I think you will see it for yourself as you join us on our journey. From moonlit strolls through London’s deserted streets to ambitious young designers putting on their own Catwalk shows, allowing them to demonstrate their incredible talent and prove their worth in an incredibly cut throat industry. This months photo shoots convey just how much potential a rainy day in the park can hold, reaching through glorious levels of surreal beauty moulded in the hands of our amazing styling team. It seems appropriate that for this issues’ theme of Bound, the team chose ‘expectation’. This not just in a conventional sense but travelling through the topics and locations of our content with the lingering question - what will become of these designers, artists and talents? Only too often do artistic gifts remain wasted because of missed opportunities, under appreciation, or lack of vision. We have found incredible new artists brimming with fresh idea’s and squeezed every ounce of potential we can out of them. The results have been exceptional as I am sure you will find. Anna Elizabeth Witcombe
CONTENT: Paris Je T’aime 9 Helios Muse 13 Fashion Make-up 18 Falling in to Phallus 24 Not Suffer Romance Gladly 30 Hate Horror in Hamstead 37 Invisible Fashion 46 Bound Constrictor 57 Timeless Fashion 68 Day to Night 72 Brick Lane 76 Contempoory Music and Fashion 87 Ask Anna 92 Turner Prize 2010 97 Rupert Shrive 100 Contributors 103
Paris Je T’aime
Sebastien Kwok
Helios Muse Jordanna Andrews
Spring is on its way and we have
Fashion Make-Up Alejandra Lazarus
selected a whole host of fabulously pretty styles to draw inspiration from. The catwalks were awash with fresh-faced, natural, pretty looks with bursts of colour and a soft fairytale finish to them. Think baby pinks mixed with bright corals, floaty soft hair with wispy braids, with porcelain perfect skin. This season colourful eyes are back but with a new found sophistication as opposed to last seasons neon brights of the ‘80s. In their place are an array of pastels as seen on the Nicole Farhi and Dior shows. Complexions are fresh with a flawless finish; whatever foundation you wear make sure it’s light and natural this season. Lips are in a word, pink. Yes, it’s back and was all over the catwalk in shades of soft
rose - worn over deep plums to lighten the look as seen in Marc by Marc Jacobs - coral pinks added glamour at Missoni, baby pink nude glosses were popular at Max Mara and Hermes, and pops of bright pinky reds left models catwalk ready at Prada. The two major trends for spring/ summer are smoky eyes with lots color and lots of gold and bronze. It’s like stepping out of the box. If you are taking any bright color and keeping it localized in the eye area, the rest of the make up needs to be nude and neutral. So you have that one pop, one little bit of interest. I know it’s not for everyone but it’s refreshing and a change of pace.
Falling in to Phallus Lisette Norrby
Not Suffer Romance Gladly Sebastien Kwok
Haute Horror in Hampstead Jordanna Andrews
Invisible Fashion Karoline Trent
MASKS
SPRING/SUMMER
2010
(Invisible fashion) Karoline Trent It is ironic that so many people claim it is wrong to “Judge a book by its cover” when such a high percent of the population spend hours in front of the mirror every morning. We cover up, we put on a mask, it’s about choices, we don’t choose how we are born, but we choose how to look, act and behave. Acceptance is why we wear masks plain and simple, to conform to the greater population feeling accepted and attractive. I believe people crave acceptance almost as much as food, water, and shelter. As we go through these stages of masks we make changes to become accepted by those we think will give us the most beneficial status, or sometimes just the group that would bother us too much if we were not a member of. The only people who seem to escape with some form of originality in tact are the people who are ostracized, and who wear the local anti-mask, for some reason and can’t fit in anyway and so they bind themselves to other ‘misfits’ who will accept them as they are.
celebrated author, Ronald Rolheiser The states: “We live knowing that others do not fully know and understand us and that others can never fully know and understand us, that they are ’out there’ and we are ’in here’. No mask can ever be a representation of you or I. That’s why People favour authenticity because it is such a rare commodity. Maybe the question is not how to eliminate the mask but how to embrace the person. Our brains are far more creative then we give it credit for.
Bound C o n strictor Richard Kolapo-Ajala
Timeless Fashion by Maria Paula Valente Trends come and go. You can see trends everywhere, all the time. But some unique items are timeless. It can be clothing, jewellery, furniture, cars or a pose. What do they have in common? They are classic. Let’s take a walk down memory lane and see what we can find and let’s start with the gentlemen first: Remembering the 50’s with James Dean in his stoned jeans and white cotton t-shirt. In the other hand we have Tom Cruise in Top Gun, racing down the airfield in his leather jacket wearing those infamous Rayban Aviators, which nowadays hunt us down on every high street. Nevertheless, their shape and look has stayed the same. Going a little bit further, for the ones who love hats we have Pablo Escobar walking through his cocoa fields with a white panama, copied around the world and still around, from the fancy beaches of Saint Tropez, to the back allies of London’s notorious east end and even in the jazz buzzing sidewalks of New Orleans
For women the first timeless piece that comes in mind is the eternal black dress well represented in Breakfast at Tiffany by Audrey Hepburn and developed by every renewed designer without exception. The unique silk scarves from Hermès, nowadays made in a variety of sizes and colours, are on trend for the last two centuries. Famous lovers of the Hermès scarf include Queen Elizabeth II (who wore one in a portrait for a British postage stamp in the 1950s. To create something of such strength and expression, which embodies a statement of timeless appeal, that is on vogue regardless of the decade or continent, is no easy task. The combination of old and new is no stranger in fashion, but taking something timeless and classic and combining it with the seasons trends give the look an extemporal mood and charm. Instead of spending fortunes on new items of clothing or accessories we should be digging up our grandmothers vintage clothing and reusing them. In this economic climate, who doesn’t want to save a penny or two anyway?
Day to Night Richard Kolapo-Ajala
Day
to
Night
Day 1 Having just discussed the theme’s of our articles in the group magazine meeting in which I put forward an idea based of Street Style and scene kids in Dalston (which was soon slated by another member) I needed to quickly think up a new direction. I believed in my idea but I had to agree that it wasn’t what you might expect to find in the edgy magazine we intended to create. I headed down to Shepherds Bush Tube with my head down holding an expression of frustration. It was time for a drastic rethink, I knew the criteria has to tick both boxes. The first one being it had to have an edge and fit in some way around our theme and secondly my own personal addition to the check list was that I had to have at least some interest in it.
Making my journey down to the “Gentleman’s” club from Tottenham Court rd at around 4 O’clock, I place the Gentlemen in apostrophe’s as these men differed somewhat to the general idea of gentlemen as I found out on Day 3. It was interesting to see the transformation of Soho from day to night, in the day it was melting pot of all types of people from businessmen, tourists, cyclists, mums and sons, art students from Central saint martins and generally anyone and everyone who happened to fall across Wardour Street. I must add to this though that the mums I saw who evidently knew what this region was under its daylight disguise became very cautious as to the direction they would take there intrigued sons. So, a few things I thought I’d share to point out that this area is indeed a place where they sell sex. The phone box: littered with sex cards with pictures of all different shades of women in compromising positions and full details of how they can be contacted, very efficient these prostitutes! The ladies outside the clubs: these women on the whole look like fairly average run-of-the-mill women, that is until you inadvertently make eye contact with them, in which case they will try to lure you in with all sorts of language and facial expressions and so to conclude my first visit there are most definitely still traces left from this drastic makeover. Oh and also a quick recommendation if you’re ever low on spandex I can recommend you’ll find something to quench your thirst for stretch at Clone Zone.
Day2 A few weeks later on a stuffy summer’s day I found the time to do a slightly more comprehensive review of W1D since I was more comfortable and informed of the area. What I planned to do on this visit was to go when the sun was up and then later on when the sun had gone down and the transformation took place. Having looked around a few more shops and roads I noticed even more traces of what this sheep by day wolf by night area had to offer. You could say there were holes in the wool! I saw a few more signs for “models” in narrow doorways leading up to steep stairs I can only wonder what’s up there. The mix of people I described from the first day was very much the same, all though I did discover some new additions such as overly muscular men with tshirts that may not have bee intended for someone of their stature, gay couples and drunken men who were gearing up for the night ahead and the tourists. In particular the young girls wondering around in small groups running in and out of phone boxes littered with the call cards I mentioned nevertheless they were too busy talking amongst themselves to realise. I also managed to sneak a few pictures of the goings on around the place as there were so many things happening at once. My favourite picture would have to be of the display case of one of numerous book shops featuring a 30 copies of “Spartacus International Gay Guide” with a front cover of a well toned man wearing jeans squinting as if looking of into the distance as models do and in the centre a slightly larger book of a mans crotch in white Y fronts and a penis that reached from the centre of the book across at a 45 degree angle to the top right corner it was aptly named “The Big Penis Book”. All the walking had tired me out and I decided to type up my research until it was time to return.
Brick Lane Rachel Berotilini
East London – Brick Lane A few minutes in London is enough to feel how complete this city is and what it can provide for you. You don’t have to go further to start to absorb all the information overflow on fashion, art and music. It wouldn’t be wrong to say that London is complete, a small world, a place where you can find whatever you need, whoever you want, many tastes, different styles, a mix of cultures and races.
It is possible to find this mixture anywhere in the city, but there is one street in particular that resume and exemplify that very well, the street is pure charm and it is one of the coolest and “artistic” in London: the Brick Lane.
The street is in East London and besides all of the artistic history, it is well known for its Indian community (predominantly from bangladesh). They came to london looking for good opportunities and a better life, and stabilised in the region. One part of the street is even called “Banglatown”, a place where you can find Indian restaurants, Curry festivals and the most famous Indian recipes. The gastronomy is also a success in the “Brick Lane Market”, a fair that happens every Sunday. Several stalls, side by side, offering different kinds of food, from different countries. No one is bothered that the only place to sit, is the floor! Actually, it emphasises the mood of the street.
But if you think that Brick Lane Market is just about food, your wrong! In fact the highlight of the fair is the variety of clothes. On Sundays there are lined with people hawking their second-hand wares, with some good bargains to be had if you look hard enough, not to mention the leather garments, that can be found at a excellent price. New designers with their fabulous products, sharing space with the vintage clothing and art deco furniture.
And there is more. A gift for our ears! Most of the time, musicians and some rock bands presents their music, live, for everybody to sing, to dance, or just to appreciate. In an environment full of good energy, with young people, musicians, contemporary artists, designers and curious, ... Its no effort to have a great time and enjoy life when your in Brick Lane.
Contemporary
Music and Fashion Sarah Burt
From the unwearable pieces to the unbearable noise, these two forms of communication are revolutionising the ways of perception.
There are no limits when it comes to contemporary music and fashion. It may not be linked or approved of, but it can just as easily be loved and admired.
The boundaries of our expectations are blurred, the accuracy of our predictions are unreliable. Will this movement lead to a new way of thinking?
We no longer restrain to determining one and only meaning from what we observe, these new forms of expression enable individuals to distinguish their own interpretation of what they perceive.
Ask Anna Alejandra Lazarus
Turner Prize 2010 Heejeong Noh
The Turner Prize is a contemporary art award that was set up in 1984 to celebrate new developments in contemporary art. The prize is awarded each year to ‘a British artist under fifty for an outstanding exhibition or other presentation of their work in the twelve months preceding’. Nominations are invited each year, and the prize is judged by an independent jury that changes annually. The four shortlisted artists present works in a show normally held at Tate Britain before the winner is announced in December. Artists are not judged on their show at Tate. The decision is based on the work they were nominated for. Over the recent decades the Turner Prize has played a significant role in provoking debate about visual art and the growing public interest in contemporary British art in particular, and has become widely recognised as one of the most important and prestigious awards for the visual arts in Europe. Here are Turner Prize 2010 shortlist announced Dexter Dalwood For a solo exhibition at Tate St Ives that revealed the rich depth and varied range of his approach to making paintings which draw upon art history as well as contemporary cultural and political events.
Angela de la Cruz For her solo exhibition, After at Camden Arts Centre, London. De la Cruz uses the language of painting and sculpture to create striking works that evoke memory and desire through combining formal tension with a deeper emotional presence. Susan Philipsz For presentations of her work at the Glasgow International Festival of Visual Art and in Mirrors, Museo de Arte Contemporanea de Vigo, Spain. Philipsz uses her own singing voice to create uniquely evocative sound installations that respond to the character of specific, often out-of-the-way spaces. The Otolith Group For their project A Long Time Between Suns, which took the form of exhibitions at Gasworks and The Showroom, London with accompanying publication. The Otolith Group work collaboratively across a range of disciplines, in particular the moving image, to investigate overlooked histories through archival and documentary material.
After st Theresea Morton metropolis
Rupert Shrive Lisette Norrby
Artist Rupert Shrive is currently showing his mixed media collection at Theresa at Morton Metropolis, the West end’s most talked about gallery. Ring the bell to ascend to a bright room of walls of white canvas and groundbreaking art. Rupert Shrives’s work is innovative. The innovative collection consists of scrapbook collage, sculpture and exquisite and large brown paper based portraits. Female faces appear distorted since the original portraits has been crumpled and cropped. The technique is refreshing but manage to stay sophisticated when plain brow paper or wallpaper becomes transformed in to contemporary art by the use of polyurethane. The exhibition consists of two parts. The first is 3D where Rupert Shrive allows the viewer to walk around the art, this to discern differences in every angel that conjures up feelings of intrigue.
contributors
Q&A NAME: Anna Witcombe Title: Editor What did you want to be when you were younger? I wanted to be a lawyer, and then when I was about 15 I sat my dad down and told him I didn’t want to do law I wanted to make dresses! And what are your expectations now? I am heading off to Wimbledon to do costume interpretation, and then hopefully I will be a costume cutter or wardrobe supervisor Tell us something unexpected about yourself... I don’t know! NAME julia TITLE OR AREA illustrator WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A cop working for the FBI AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? Just to enjoy the summer TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I had a pet rat for two years and my parents had no idea about it NAME sarah TITLE OR AREA Advertising WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? Something in music or fashion AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? Fashion designer for maison de couture then create my own brand TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I like clothes hangers…. NAME rachel WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A fashion designer AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I hope to work in fashion, but not in design, probably in fashion PR or something like that… NAME alejandra TITLE OR AREA WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? Teacher or a doctor AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I want my own brand TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I really enjoy fashion shoots
NAME richard TITLE OR AREA WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A train so I could be mates with Thomas the tank engine AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? Im expecting for all my hard work to pay off in someway and to be successful in what I might endeavour into next TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I almost quit my rugby squad because I wanted to spend more time reading fashion magazines and looking at womens clothes NAME Gordon TITLE OR AREA Layout Design WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A typeographer AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? To become a respected designer of some kind TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I drive an old mini with no front seat and a dent in the back NAME Lisette TITLE OR AREA Photographer/stylsit WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A never ending explorer AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? To move on and start new creative projects, CSM, hard work TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I collect dala horses NAME Shauna TITLE OR AREA Head of art production WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A marine biologist AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? To be happy… and a fashion designer TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I have a degree in biology
NAME dominique TITLE OR AREA Head of editorials WHAT DID YOU WANT TOBE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? I wanted to work for the UN and then decided I was more passionate about fashion, still I hope one day to be in the UN AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I expect London to be my beginning, I expect to finish my BA in fashion, I expect to be succesful TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I grew up in Turkey and I’m a snow boarding and knitting fanatic! NAME Sebastian TITLE OR AREA Styling and photography, make up team, advertising WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? A toy inventor or a fashion designer AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? Enjoy my BA and have fun with people I like TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I love brioche! NAME Hee TITLE OR AREA WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? I wanted to be person who could combine arts and life to make mine and other peoples lives a whole lot better. AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I’m trying do various things but frankly I can’t expect anything, I can just try everything I can... TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I’m quite an impulsive person... so sometimes I do things that people find very unexpected, but I think it helps you find yourself. NAME karoline TITLE OR AREA Make up team, photo and styling WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER I wanted to become a member of the spice girls and a be a superstar in pink glitter platforms AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I still want those pink glitter platforms! TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I can speak fluent polish
NAME jordanna TITLE OR AREA WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER Before I found fashion, I wanted to be a lawyer like Matlock, a nun like on sister act and the owner of a rainforest but when I found fashion I just wanted to be myself AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? My expectations of myself have increased ten fold, along with my expectation of others, I just want to succeed, have babies and decent friends… thou doth expect too much?? TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I am secretly a superhero NAME Claudia TITLE WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER The head penguin keeper at the London zoo or a helicopter fixer, I also used to think it would be really great to work at mc donalds… I had BIG dreams. AND WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS NOW? I will own the most avant garde lingerie label in the world TELL US SOMETHING UNEXPECTED ABOUT YOURSELF… I design underwear, but I still wear knickers from when I was 8 years old with disney princesses on…
All Layout Design by Gordon Darling