Search for perfect watermelon becomes labor of love

JIM RIDOLPHI Contributing Columnist

It seems I spend every spring in an elusive search for that perfect slice of watermelon that explodes with juiciness and flavor, and lately it’s been more and more difficult to find. It’s not that there isn’t an abundant amount of the traditional summer treat around, but finding that flavor I remember as a child seems more impossible with each passing year.

I am an Alabama native and a love for watermelon runs deep in my roots. My mother attributes my insatiable appetite to her incessant need to eat watermelon during her pregnancy. I was an

August baby, and anyone who has ever been in Montgomery in the depths of summer can appreciate that ice cold watermelon offered the best and quickest relief.

And watermelons were plentiful, sold along the streets of Montgomery at roadside markets and stands, or available from the back of a pickup truck from a nearby farmer who had just harvested a crop. For 25 cents, you could pick up the biggest one in the lot, or opt for that smaller one sure to contain an amped-up dose of flavor.

It was a way of life in the Deep South, and many family gatherings ended with huge slices of watermelon being passed to everyone. The kids always lined up near my grandfather, who passed out pieces so large two hands were required to handle it.

I also learned early that the best watermelons are not found in grocery stores. My father thought nothing of pulling over a tractor trailer full of watermelons and negotiating for a couple of the freshest fruits. He was never too busy to stop at a roadside stand or visit the most remote places to get a good watermelon.

Later in my life, my dedication to watermelon didn’t decline with age. I would often drive to Shockoe Bottom to search for trucks parked along the side streets full of fresh melons.

Those selections never disappointed, but the trucks eventually disappeared.

At some point, I surrendered and began purchasing watermelons at local supermarkets, often opting for the lowest-priced offerings. With each passing year, that remembered blast of flavor became more difficult to find.

A friend explained to me that grocery store fruit is actually less favorable than it used to be due to overbreeding and fruit being produced with longer shelf lives and perfect appearances.

I thought back to the days when fresh strawberries were only available for a few weeks in late spring and peaches were a brief latesummer treat. Both are now available virtually year round.

He also reminded me that as individuals age, taste buds become less nimble and reactions not as vibrant as they once were.

But, there is good news for those engaged in this search for old time goodness in fruit and vegetable.

That elusive experience is still available at local farm markets or local roadside fruit stands. And on those less-traveled highways, you may even be lucky enough to find a small display where the folks selling the fruit actually are responsible for growing it.

So, find yourself a nice plump melon, chill it down and enjoy a blast from the past that explodes with each bite. It’s a great way to begin summer.