AROUND THE WORLD ON THE OCASSION OF WORLD TOURISM DAY UNGA 75 | SEPTEMBER 2020 A Bookazine Edition by
A Bookazine Edition by
AROUND THE WORLD ON THE OCASSION OF WORLD TOURISM DAY UNGA 75 | SEPTEMBER 2020
PUBLISHER DIPLOMATIC COURIER | MEDAURAS GLOBAL WASHINGTON, DC
A Global Affairs Media Network
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ANA C. ROLD EDITOR-AT-LARGE MOLLY MCCLUSKEY CREATIVE DIRECTOR MARC GARFIELD AUTHORS CLAUDIA CHEN LORENA MERUVIA MOLLY MCCLUSKEY CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ALLYSON BERRI REBECCA GRAHAM SARAH JONES ANDERS HEDBERG PAUL NASH ADAM RATZLAFF WINONA ROYLANCE SHANE SZARKOWSKI SHALINI TREFZER MERCEDES YANORA
EDITORIAL ADVISORS ASMAA AL-FADALA ANDREW M. BEATO FUMBI CHIMA KERSTIN EWELT GHIDA FAKHRY SIR IAN FORBES LISA GABLE GREG LEBEDEV ANITA MCBRIDE CLARE SHINE
Copyright © by Diplomatic Courier/Medauras Global Publishing 2006-2020 All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. First Published in 2006. Published in the United States by Medauras Global and Diplomatic Courier. Mailing Address: 1660 L Street, NW, Suite 501, Washington, DC, 20036 | www.diplomaticourier.com Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data ISBN: 978-1-942772-07-1 (Digital) ISBN: 978-1-942772-06-4 (Print) LEGAL NOTICE. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form—except brief excerpts for the purpose of review—without written consent from the publisher and authors. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication; however, the authors, Diplomatic Courier, and Medauras Global make no warranties, express or implied, in regards to the information and disclaim all liability for any loss, damages, errors, or omissions. EDITORIAL. The articles both in print and online represent the views of their authors and do not reflect those of the editors and the publishers. While the editors assume responsibility for the selection of the articles, the authors are responsible for the facts and interpretations of their articles. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information in this publication, however, Medauras Global and the Diplomatic Courier make no warranties, express or implied in regards to the information, and disclaim all liability for any loss, damages, errors, or omissions. PERMISSIONS. None of the articles can be reproduced without their permission and that of the publishers. For permissions please email the editors at: info@medauras.com with your written request. COVER DESIGN. Cover and jacket design by Marc Garfield.
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CONTENTS FOREWORD
| MOLLY MCCLUSKEY.......................................................................................................................................10
WELCOME
| ANA C. ROLD.......................................................................................................................................................11
FEATURES NO ONE EVER WROTE A COUNTRY SONG ABOUT THE OVERNIGHT TRAIN TO ZAGREB | MOLLY MCCLUSKEY............................................................12 THE MAGIC OF THE HIGHLANDS | CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI.......................................................................................................................................18 THE SKY ROAD: JOURNEYING TO THE WORLD’S ROOFTOP | CLAUDIA CHEN................................................................................................................................................22 ST KITTS SCENIC RAILWAY: THE LAST SURVIVING RAILWAY OF THE WEST INDIES | LORENA MERUVIA......................................................................................26 HUMAN INGENUITY POWERS THE BERNINA EXPRESS | CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI......................................................................................................................................29 THE SHORTEST, SWEETEST TRAIN RIDE IN FRANCE | CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI......................................................................................................................................34 THE TRAIN STREETS OF HANOI | CLAUDIA CHEN................................................................................................................................................38 THE BIGGEST TRAIN SET IN THE WORLD | CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI......................................................................................................................................42 A JOURNEY ON THE CANADIAN | LORENA MERUVIA.........................................................................................................................................46 A TRAIN THAT LED TO A CANAL | LORENA MERUVIA.........................................................................................................................................50 THE TAZARA RAILWAY | CLAUDIA CHEN................................................................................................................................................54 THE DEATH RAILWAY | CLAUDIA CHEN................................................................................................................................................58
DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 7
AROUND THE WORLD INTRODUCTION
Foreword
Molly McCluskey Editor-at-Large In the early hours of one morning in March, I sat in a train station in California, alone except for the ticket taker, waiting for a train to Sacramento. That day, a local hospital would declare an outbreak of coronavirus, the first hospital in the country to do so, and, with that announcement, would come the slow locking down of America, and most of the world. Unbeknownst to me, that journey, and the journey home, would be the last train rides I would take for many, many months. I’ve long had a deep love of train travel. I’ve traveled on an overnight train from Zurich to Zagreb, across the United States from Denver to Washington, DC, up through New England during autumn and marveled at the bold colors, covered bridges, and charming small stations dotted across the landscape. When the pandemic is over and the border between the United States and Canada reopens, I’m hoping to finally fulfill a childhood dream of taking the VIA across its Great Western Way rail, from Vancouver to Toronto. I’m not alone. We here at Diplomatic Courier have wandering souls, and this lockdown has made us all yearn for the days when we might explore distant lands. In that spirit, we’ve created this travel series, dedicated to exploring beautiful places by our favorite mode of transportation. Claire Wyszynski takes us through Scotland, and classic literature, in The Magic of the Highlands. Lorena Meruvia explores The Last Surviving Rail of the West Indies as it tours St. Kitts, and Claudia Chen explains the dark history behind South Africa’s Blue Train. Those stories, and ones about a railway run by children, journeying to the world’s rooftop, and how a train reunites loved ones in Hanoi, are sure to transport you, and, we hope, inspire you for a time when we’re all able to explore once again.
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Welcome
Ana C. Rold Editor-in-Chief As the COVID-19 pandemic was raging on, our Editor-at-Large made a several days-long trip by car from one coast of America to the other. Before she embarked on the journey she surveyed her Twitter followers: what would they do if they had to travel? A car or train ride meant multiple stops and multiple opportunities for exposure. A plane ride meant a shorter trip but closed quarters and less ability to control the environment. There was no right answer. This is a dilemma that many people—whether traveling for work, leisure, or to visit family members—find themselves in. Even though some restrictions are being lifted, travel continues to be ever more stressful, more limited than ever, and even dangerous. COVID-19 has changed travel as we know it—maybe forever. But our sense of wonder, our desire to explore and learn has not ceased. Diplomatic Courier’s team of editors and writers is stationed all around the world. What unites us is our love for travel. On the last day of December, we wrapped a prolific year of travel, posting on our Instagram page a sampling of our top destinations of 2019. Some of our team members were on the road every single month last year, covering or speaking at conferences or doing investigative work in remote areas of the world. The lockdown has been difficult for this crew—we are not used to being homebound at all—let alone this long. But we know it is difficult for our audience too. We imagine the tsunami of oftennegative news we have to process daily has been taxing. This new editorial channel and subsequent bookazine series is our opportunity to escape and to learn. For our team of contributors, memories of happier travels past, and a hope that we might all be able to hit the road again soon. We are thrilled to launch the first bookazine of this series on UN’s World Tourism Day to support an industry that needs it the most. “Tourism and Rural Development” celebrates the sector’s unique ability to drive economic development and provide opportunities outside of big cities, including in those communities that would otherwise be left behind.
DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 11
NO ONE EVE COUNTRY SON OVERNIGHT TR
ER WROTE A NG ABOUT THE RAIN TO ZAGREB BY MOLLY MCCLUSKEY
A
fter eleven hours of riding a jostling train from Zurich to Zagreb, on a bunk so narrow and short I suffered bodily injury with each toss and turn, subjected to lessons in revisionist history from a mad Bosnian, I want coffee more than I want anything else, except, perhaps to get off the train. On the overnight train from Zurich to Zagreb, the Bosnian man says he can get me coffee. There’s no restaurant car. No potable water. Despite my earplugs and airline eye mask, I’d been unable to sleep. Now, with the sun shining, and standing in the aisle in yesterday’s clothes, I ask with all the hopefulness and optimism of a first-term politician, “Coffee?” “You are in Yugoslavia!” he booms. “Of course there is coffee.” I smile politely, not inclined to enter into a political discussion, and try to recall which country’s terrain we’re now on. “Slovenia?” I wonder aloud. A few more hours to Zagreb, then. We’re supposed to arrive at 10:44. “Yugoslavia,” he corrects me. “Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro. Of all this is Yugoslavia. Tito, God rest his soul, he knew this.” He could have told me we were on Mars. Chattered away in Serbo-Croatian with an Irish brogue. Insisted we were (clap, clap, clap, clap) deep in the heart of Texas. Because suddenly he vanished into a side door I hadn’t seen when I boarded the train last night and moments later, appeared with a steaming cup of a frothy brew that vaguely resembled caffeine. And in that moment, he was my hero. It’s 2014. I’ve just spent a few weeks in Switzerland, and am returning to Croatia where I’d spent the past several summers covering the country’s transition into the European Union. I’ll be returning to the same apartment, the same friends, the same work. So, I thought I’d at least mix up the journey. When I had boarded the train in Zurich, my friend had asked skeptically, “You’re taking the train?” This questioning of my adventurousness came from an odd source, as this was the man who years earlier, had lent me his VW van to sleep in on the streets of Zurich. “Prepare yourself,” he told me. “Prepare myself for what?” I asked. 14 | AROUND THE WORLD
“Just...prepare yourself,” he repeated. “But, for what?” I asked again. “Families? Drunks? College students? Lack of sleep? No food?” After all, how can I prepare if I don’t know what I’m about to face? “I don’t know, maybe,” he said. “I’ve never taken the overnight train.” So, I’d packed enough food to feed a survivalist for a weekend following an apocalypse, a few bottles of water, and a small box of Luxemburgerli macaroons (because I have priorities). But even as my friend carried my small suitcase onto the train in Zurich, and hugged me goodbye, he uttered again, “Good luck.” That my Swiss friends viewed Croatia as some sort of Wild, Wild West of Europe had been clear, and their inability to figure out why I, a seemingly rational American, would willingly choose to spend time there, baffled them. I insisted that I loved it, and I received the same looks as though I’d told them I’d willingly married a drunk with a gambling addiction. Over the years that I’d spent extended periods of time living in Europe, I learned that this distain tends to flow from west to east on the continent: the UK’s debate about leaving the EU showcased some of that with its stance on immigration from Central and Eastern European countries; the large countries in the west decried financial bailouts in the south and central; the wariness in which the collective Balkans are viewed; how Slovenia, the first former Yugoslav country to join the EU seems to view itself as slightly higher than its neighbors, the way in which Croatia attempts to distance itself from Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina; and how, among many, Europeans, Bulgaria and Romania are spoken of as hotbeds of corruption, child- trafficking, and general immorality. “They would murder their child if it meant getting ahead,” the blonde woman sitting on the bunk next to me said of Romanians as she sipped her beer. Slovenian, she has been living in Switzerland for six years, working in a shop. Shortly after boarding, when we were still the sole occupants in our respective cabins, (six sleepers each), she had joined me, offered me a beer and taken a seat on the beds that were still configured as couches. She had what my mother would have called dishwater blonde hair, and her age could have been late twenties or early forties. Her boyfriend, also living in Switzerland, is Croatian, and so she says she’s equally comfortable in Croatia or in Slovenia, Switzerland, and in Italy, where they vacation in St. Moritz. She speaks with an odd mixture of pride for the Balkans, but a sort DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 15
of distance, as though she had escaped it all, and gone to live a far better life. It’s the same sense I get from the Bosnian man who brings me coffee in the morning. He’d gone to Switzerland to work odd construction jobs. “For Bosnian man, there is no need for visas!” he said. “Bosnian men find ways for everything!” He’s come back carrying several large duffel bags, which he said are filled with aid for his family who suffered in the cyclone-induced floods that had just decimated parts of Serbia and Bosnia. Cleaning supplies, mostly, and some food. “Russia has been very good to us since the floods,” he says. “So, they have a problem in Ukraine. They have no problem with us.” His accent is so thick, it’s nearly guttural. Other travelers are emerging from the cabins into the aisle so narrow passing from one end to the other requires intimacy with strangers. The blonde Slovenian woman is still sleeping in the cabin on the right, but from the cabin to my left emerge two Americans, Alaskans both, one who has just graduated college, and one who has just graduated high school. Brother and sister, they’re traveling through Europe before she starts work at her new job in Israel. We chat, and I duck into their cabin with them, and sit on the flipped-up bunk. We’re followed by the Bosnian. It’s his cabin, as well. “You want more coffee?” he asks. Oh, God, yes. After eleven hours of riding a jostling train, on a bunk so narrow and short I suffered bodily injury with each toss and turn, I wanted coffee more than I wanted anything else, except, perhaps to get off the train. So, I say yes. Moments later, the conductor, a dark-haired, blue-eyed Croatian with an impossible smile, brings me a second cup. It’s from his private stash, in a cabin kept for staff. I chat with him briefly in the little bit of Croatian I remember, and hope the lines on my face from my eye mask have receded. “See? I am a Yugoslavian!” the Bosnian interrupts our flirting. “I know where all the good things are on this train!” Apparently, all the good things are with the conductor, but I simply sip my coffee. Later, I’ll pop down the aisle and give the conductor a bag of trail mix I’ve brought with me from Switzerland, unopened, as a thank you. He’s surprised, which makes me wonder just how many passengers have taken advantage of his generosity. 16 | AROUND THE WORLD
Eventually, the other three people emerge from my cabin; two older Croatian women and one middle-aged Croatian man who I had met the night before. In the cabin past the Alaskans, three European backpackers emerge, blinking into the light. They had originally been assigned to share the blonde Slovenian’s cabin, but she had proclaimed so loudly and repeatedly, “I have to share my cabin with boys! I can’t believe there are three boys in my cabin. Oh, look. Here’s another one. What will I tell my boyfriend?” that the conductor had approached them with a cabin that had magically become available, and asked if they’d like to move. I never heard them utter a word, not while she was protesting about them while standing so close a mini jostle of the train would have thrown them into an embrace, or the next morning, as we all stood in the aisle, next to the single window that opened, staring into the passing fields. By the time we arrived in Zagreb, I had a raging headache, but whether it was from caffeine withdrawal from the weak coffee, the hours of discussing Tito, the war, and Yugoslavian unity, or the lack of sleep, even years later, I couldn’t say. Regardless, I was happy to bid adieu to my fellow motley travelers, with a vow to next time, take a plane instead. ***** A previous version of this article originally appeared on Beacon Reader.
DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 17
THE MAGIC OF THE HIGHLANDS BY CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI
K
nown to many as the Hogwarts Express, this magical train ride has inspired other great works of art.
Running from Fort William to Mallaig on the West Highland Line in Scotland, the Jacobite train, which Harry Potter fans will recognize as the Hogwarts Express, is an 84-mile journey that begins adjacent to the tallest mountain in the United Kingdom, and ventures through the largest town in the Highlands, fishing ports, and rocky islets. Spirits and spells are absent from the journey—except, perhaps, for a pass by the Loch Morar, a freshwater lake rumored to host a half-human, half-fish monster known as Morag. Indeed, passengers will tell you that the real magic of the Jacobite lies in its most human quality: connection. Named for the prevalence of Highland connections to the Jacobite political movement, the train draws from a history of connecting people in conflict. In the mid-18th century, King James II of Scotland abdicated his throne to his daughter Mary and her husband William of Orange after upsetting the Protestant population with his Roman Catholic loyalties. The resulting Glorious Revolution, though “bloodless” in England, met armed resistance in Scotland and Ireland. Supporters of James II and his son, Charles Edward Stuart, became known as the Jacobites. During the reign of William of Orange, when Scottish citizens became dissatisfied with political and economic failures, many turned to the Jacobite movement not only to advocate for James II’s leadership, but also express their upset. In 1901, the West Highland Line had expanded to include the fishing village of Mallaig, connecting rural Scotland to the more urban Atlantic Coast. The extension enabled economic cooperation and sparked new relationships among country and city dwellers previously prevented by distance. Drawing from the train’s past successes, steam locomotives took the place of more efficient diesel locomotives to revive the traditional image of a train billowing thick white steam. Jointed coaches reinvigorated the familiar sound of wheels clacking against tracks, an addition that passengers today can still hear. Musician Mary Ann MacKinnon felt the Jacobite’s power to connect on a 1990 train ride that linked a new era to the old. Just six years prior to MacKinnon’s journey, Jacobite operator West Coast Railways sought to promote train travel among modern passengers by preserving elements of the past. No exact record exists of what MacKinnon experienced during her ride. Whether her love of the Jacobite stemmed from sights of the River Morar, 20 | AROUND THE WORLD
the shortest river in Scotland, or the Loch nan Ceall, a bay connected by rocky islets, or even Glenfinnan, the 21-arched viaduct so familiar to viewers of Harry Potter, remains uncertain. Yet something about the Jacobite’s bridge between the old and the new stuck with MacKinnon. So, taken by her “memories of a fine summer day looking out of the train window,” the passenger composed the iconic bagpipe tune “Steam Train to Mallaig”. Like the Jacobite, the piece itself is a modern relic, a link to something past: piobaireachd, classical bagpipe music from the Great Highlands. *****
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THE SKY ROAD JOURNEYING TO THE WORLD’S ROOFTOP BY CLAUDIA CHEN
W
ith the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, Lhasa Express takes passengers to the Tibetan city known as “Roof of the World”. Also known as “Sky Road”, this railway holds more Guinness book entries than any single structure in the world—six in total, comprising the world’s highest railway, highest railway tunnel, longest tunnel through permafrost, longest plateau railway, and the highest construction site. Connecting otherwise isolated Tibet to mainland China, the Sky Road has attracted people interested in Tibetan culture from all over the world, becoming one of the busiest railways in China. In addition to holding multiple world records, the Sky Road is also known for its beautiful scenery. Along the way, passengers can witness the crystal-like Qinghai Lake, China’s largest saltwater lake; the naturally occurring Qarhan Salt Bridge; the vast Gobi Desert; the snow-peaked Kunlun Mountains; and more. With scenic platforms at stations, passengers are able to observe the miraculous scenes upfront. As proclaimed by famous Australian skydiver Felix Baumgartner, “When you stand on top of the world, you become so humble.” When standing on the Tanggula Station platform, the highest railway station in the world, there is a moment when you feel like you’re on top of the world. Traversing these landscapes opens a door to the fascinating Tibetan culture. Once at the final destination in Lhasa, you can visit the Potala Palace, once a palace for nine Dalai Lamas, which is now a museum and World Heritage Site. Also, don’t miss the opportunity to witness customs such as the sky burial as they are a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The railway is also considered a miraculous feat of engineering. Tibet was China’s last province to have its own railway due to its high altitude and rough terrain. Out of the total 1,956 kilometers of the railway, more than 960 kilometers are 5,000 meters above sea level, with the highest point, Tanggula Station, sitting 5,068 meters above sea level. Permafrost and lack of oxygen also made construction extremely difficult. The 550 kilometers between Tanggula Station and Lhasa were completely built on permafrost, which is the longest distance of railway on permafrost in the world. The engineers not only built the railway but also ensured that the train ran at 100km/h on permafrost, whereas the train runs at 120km/h on other sections of the railway. Today the railway runs with two oxygen supply methods for passengers and crew to ensure safety: by controlling temperature and air pressure within compartments and by including two oxygen supply rooms for individual passengers.
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Aside from its majestic scenery and miraculous engineering, the railway is also noteworthy for its diplomatic significance. Because of its isolating terrain, Tibet was heavily reliant upon imported goods from other regions until this railway became Tibet’s route to the outside world. Built as part of China’s Western Development Plan to assist less-developed provinces, the Sky Road has significantly lowered transportation costs. The railway also plays an important role in the ongoing One Belt One Road Initiative, as it is seen as a bridge between China and South Asia. In 2008, the Nepalese and Chinese governments agreed to expand a train line to increase tourism and trade between the two countries. This led to an agreement in 2018 during Nepal Prime Minister Oli’s visit to Beijing for the construction of the Shigatse-Kathmandu, which is scheduled to be completed in 2024. There are also plans for the Sky Road to connect at the borders of India and Bhutan. Tibet is a bucket list destination for many people, not only because of its beauty but also its unique culture. Visit Potala Palace, meet monks at the Sera Monastery, and witness the beauty of the Tibetan Plateau. The railway has resumed operations after pausing for the COVID-19 pandemic and is now available for reservations. ***** DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 25
ST KITTS SCENIC RAILWAY THE LAST SURVIVING RAILWAY OF THE WEST INDIES BY LORENA MERUVIA
T
he St. Kitts Scenic Railway is the last surviving railway of the West Indies, and traverses the island via a twohour train ride on train tracks belonging to the former sugarcane railroad. Throughout the ride, passengers get a complete view of the Caribbean island as the train makes its way around the coastline. Sugar cane was introduced in Kitts in 1643—at the time, the island was fought over for control between the French and British Empires and sugar cane was one of the most valuable commodities in the world. By 1775, St. Kitts was the wealthiest British colony, producing sugar in 200 estates, but it was not until more than a century later that the “Sugar Train” was born. In 1912, a group of investors decided to build a factory near Basseterre in order to make sugar production more efficient, but they realized that they would have difficulty bringing in raw cane sugar from different parts of the island. To mitigate the issue of distance, the investors came up with the idea of a railway. A few years later, the railway was completed in 1926, which made a circuit around the entire island. The factory and railway functioned until 2005—it had failed to compete against international competitors—ending more than 350 years of sugarcane production in St. Kitts. Thankfully, the “Sugar Train” survived thanks to an agreement between the Government and a private company, and St. Kitts Scenic Railway has been running tourist excursions since 2003. The “Island Series” railcars in St. Kitts Scenic Railway are double-decked, with a lower, enclosed, air conditioned interior consisting of 6-foot-tall windows for a wide and clear view, paintings from local artisans in the walls, service bar, carpeted floor, and a restroom. The upper deck, provides an “outdoor” experience—with 360-degree views of the island in open-air. Throughout the journey, tourists are able to see the changing scenery of the island—including the rocky cliffs that have been shaped over centuries by the ocean, the peak of Mount Liamuiga, the variety of flora, and the beaches along the coastline. In addition, passengers are able to view old abandoned sugar cane plantations—their presence serving as a reminder of the country’s history. Lastly, train pass by the well-preserved Brimstone Hill Fortress—which serves as well-preserved example of 17th/18th-century military architecture. While traversing throughout the island, passengers receive an interactive narration of St. Kitts and the railway, in addition to hearing the sweet hymns and folk songs from the St. Kitts Railway Choir (they 28 | AROUND THE WORLD
might even get to encounter the smiling and waving of schoolchildren along the way!). St. Kitt’s Scenic Railway is a living reminder of the times when sugar dominated the island’s economy—representing an era of richness and wealth. It not only has the ability of transporting passengers back in time, but it can also generate an appreciation for the beauty that the Caribbean has to offer. *****
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HUMAN INGENUITY POWERS THE BERNINA EXPRESS BY CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI
H
uman ingenuity allows the Bernina Express, running from Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, to Tirano, a quaint town in northern Italy, to endure and enjoy nature’s wrath. Along 25 stops, passengers experience the snow-capped Alps, an ascent up the rugged and mountainous Bernina Pass, and the Landwasser Viaduct, a high, six-arched bridge. Engineering feats permit the Red Train to host the highest rail crossing in all of Europe: the Ospizio Bernina, a Swiss train station located at a whopping 2,253 meters above sea level. The Bernina Express’s blend of nature and nurture represents a product that was years in the making. In 1886, Willem-Jan Holsboer, today recognized as the founder of the Rhaetian Railways, joined a four-member commission to examine the possibility of constructing a railway between Landquart, a municipality in Graubünden, to the Alpine town of Davos-Platz. The route would cover diverse and severe terrain and connect two valley communities. After spearheading the creation of a narrow-gauge railway company, Bahngesellschaft Landquart-Davos, Holsboer realized the first part of this idea: a railway from Landquart to Klosters-Serneus, covering a distance of about twenty miles. The full route was completed on July 21, 1890, coinciding with the introduction of steam trains to the railway. Holsboer then renamed the company to the “Rhaetian Railways” in 1895. Between 1895 and 1914, nine more lines opened on the Rhaetian Railways. The Albula Railroad was constructed first in 1904 by Rhaetian Railways. Bernina-Bahngesellschaft, an independent company, completed construction on the Bernina Railroad in 1910, and Rhaetian Railways purchased and modernized the line in 1943. During its inception, the Bernina Express endured several natural obstacles to operation. Most notably, the winter snows could be so heavy that some initially thought that the Bernina Railroad should only run in the summertime. However, in 1913 the fortification of avalanche barriers allowed the Bernina Express to run in the cold. Still, the weather continued to pose problems. After acquiring the line from Bernina-Bahngesellschaft, Rhaetian Railways remodeled the Bernina Express’s path to avoid potential avalanches. In addition to prioritizing freight weight over speed, the designers developed different electrification 32 | AROUND THE WORLD
systems for the sister railways to allow passengers to enjoy a variety of altitudes. To provide further support in the mountainous Bernina Pass, Rhaetian Railways also removed the original overhead line used to transfer energy to the electrical train and reinforced the rails. Although the Bernina Express was designed for tourism, architects adapted the train’s route to its surroundings rather than modifying the environment itself. The Red Train now embarks upon one of the naturally steepest rail lines in the world. For its innovation and preservation of nature, the Bernina Railway was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 (along with its sister railway, the Albula Railway). *****
DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 33
THE SHORTEST, SWEETEST TRAIN RIDE IN FRANCE BY CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI
R
ides aboard the Train à Vapeur des Cévennes, or the steam train of Cevennes, are short and sweet.
The line stretches just eight miles long through the Cévennes, a chain of mountains in southern France. In forty minutes, passengers traverse the Gardons river valley to Mescladou viaduct, an 11-arched bridge that stretches across the Gardon de Mialet and the Gardon de Saint Jean du Gard. A restaurant car at the rear of the train holds a reputation for its delectable afternoon appetizers and meals, including pork tenderloin and honey pie. At Saint-Jean-du-Gard, vendors also sell local delicacies, the most popular being apple products, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. The train is so well-liked that from April through October, enthusiastic passengers can even get baptized aboard the train. But before today’s trip enabled passengers to enjoy the highlights of French food and culture, passengers and employees both fought for years just to keep the line open. The Railway Company from Paris to Lyon to the Mediterranean (PLM) first conceived the idea of a line spanning Anduze to Saint-Jean-du-Gard in 1879. Two years later, a connection between two separate tracks already running from Lézan to SaintJean-du-Gard and Alès to Saint-Jean-du-Gard realized this vision. Although the line was declared a public utility in 1897, the landscape of the route posed natural obstacles to safe travel, and the train remained closed to the public. In 1903, the installation of four tunnels, a single metal bridge, five viaducts, and several walls confronted the mountainous terrain. In 1909, after the construction of guard houses, passengers finally were permitted to use the line. These early challenges foreshadowed greater barriers to opening the line. In 1940, the route from Alès to Nîmes was replaced with cheaper roads. The later rise of highways in Western countries compelled many former patrons of railways to opt for personal transportation. As a result, the US and the UK closed half of their railroad networks, and the Train à Vapeur again closed in 1971. Over the next decade, more than 30,000 volunteers, consisting of regular travellers, tourists, and former workers of the line united to establish the Train à Vapeur des Cévennes association. The organization argued that the route should not be disassembled despite its costs. At last, in 1986, the International Express Steam Train Company 36 | AROUND THE WORLD
(CITEV) formed a limited liability company that saved the track. Initially, the company could only afford to take on four employees. Not even twenty years later, 28 employees were operating the Train à Vapeur for over 156,000 visitors. This year, the Train à Vapeur will celebrate its 39th anniversary of running as a tourist train. Its longevity is a testament to the advocacy of the Train à Vapeur des Cévennes association. Because of a local community’s resolve, France today maintains one of the most extensive train networks among the Western countries, venturing into rural and mountainous areas that once filled passengers with fear. *****
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THE TRAIN STREETS OF HANOI BY CLAUDIA CHEN
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nown as “train streets”, the tracks of the Reunification Express through Old Quarter Hanoi have become a part of locals’ lives and are used as normal roads, with the train traveling in narrow streets only five to sixteen feet away from local homes. Locals are so used to the train that they clear the roads when they hear the trains’ bell. After it passes, they continue to carry on with selling produce, cutting vegetables to prepare for meals, and laughing and playing with their children, despite having a huge metal machine passing through their lives at high speed. Construction on the rail began in 1899 under French Colonization, but the tracks weren’t completed until 1936, nearly forty years later. The railway was forced to halt operations in 1954 when the Vietnam War began, because a demilitarized zone separating the North and South was established near Hue. During this time the railway was repeatedly bombed and abandoned, resulting in 1,334 bridges, 158 stations, and 27 tunnels needing repair by the end of the war in 1975. The new socialist government made a promise that seemed impossible to keep at the time—to restore the railway in 20 months and have the first train run on the tracks by December 31, 1976. The enthusiastic spirit of a united people successfully repaired the tracks before the 20-month deadline. To this day, Reunification Express is seen as a symbol of the unity of the North and South, and a reminder of this remarkable historic event. The Reunification Express traverses seemingly endless rice fields, offering views of glistening beaches, hillside tracks, waterfalls, and the beautiful South China Sea right outside the window. Although some passengers take the full 36-hour journey, many choose to jump on and off at one of the 20 stations along the way, including the famous Da Nang beachfront, imperial city of Hue, the 72-meter tall Lady Buddha Statue in Nha Trang, and other cultural landmarks. One highlight of the railway is the Hai Van Pass, the “Ribbon of Perfection”. The Pass is 500 meters above sea level and travels through the Truong Son Mountains. Hai Van means “Ocean Cloud” and the pass earned its name from the mist that rises from the sea. However, the pass was not always known for its idyllic views. It served an important role during the Vietnam War by connecting the two war-heavy cities of Hue and Da Nang. During that time, the pass was known as the “Street Without Joy”, in contrast to its current-day perception of being a magical route connecting the ocean to the sky. 40 | AROUND THE WORLD
Air conditioning and television have helped modernize the journey. The Express provides four different types of tickets: Hard Seat (wooden seats), Soft Seats, six beds in a Hard Berth cabin, and four beds in a Soft Berth cabin. The Reunification Express has four daily trains that leave from Hanoi and Saigon and operations have not been impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. *****
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THE BIGGEST TRAIN SET IN THE WORLD BY CLAIRE WYSZYNSKI
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he Gyermekvasút railway in Budapest, Hungary operates like many others in the area. The narrow-gauge line crosses seven miles of the Buda Hills from nine in the morning until seven at night. The forty-minute ride traverses the countryside along the River Danube, and is popular for hikers and mountain bikers. A chairlift near the Erzsébet lookout returns passengers from the Gyermekvasút to Budapest. Small cafes and restaurants line the route, too, offering local cuisine to interested passengers. One critical difference sets this line apart: the railroad is almost completely staffed by children. Known as the “Children’s Railway”, the Gyermekvasút employs kids aged 10 to 14 to manage the station. Sporting navy blue uniforms complete with a hat and tie, children run the ticket office, keep records, and direct traffic under the supervision of a few adult employees. As of 2015, the railway had employed over 15,000 children in its 67-year history. Budapestians may refer to the railway as the “biggest train set in the world”, but the Children’s Railway requires more than play from its young employees. Despite having such a young staff, the Children’s Railway, like any other, must adhere to trainline regulations set forth by the State Railways of Hungary. Interested students in grades four through six must demonstrate academic excellence, seek a recommendation from a teacher or principal, and participate in four months of weekend training. At the conclusion of the instructional program, candidates must pass an exam. Once employed, students serve in all positions on a rotating schedule. Most children work every 15-17 days, and working at the Children’s Railway offers excitement and camaraderie beyond the confines of a classroom. In the winter and summer vacation seasons, when more tourists arrive at the station, youth can choose to stay overnight in student dormitories. The summer-camp feel of the program emphasizes the importance of team-building and allows students to form meaningful relationships with one another. However, the line’s beginnings are less innocent. During the height of the Soviet Union, officials often used such child workers as a means to encourage youth to adopt communist ideology. Gorsky Park, the first rail line operated by children, opened in Moscow in 1932. Hungary’s Children’s Railway, then termed the 44 | AROUND THE WORLD
“Pioneer Railway”, opened in 1948 under a government sympathetic to the USSR. The Gyermekvasút railway received its first nickname from the Pioneer Movement, a Scout-like organization dedicated to instilling communist beliefs into children. To be a Pioneer was to be an exemplar student. Elementary-school aged youth would aspire to the railway, and proponents of the movement used the train as a system to expose students to manual labor and ideas of honor. At the fall of the Soviet Union, over 50 children’s railways still existed, scattered across the Eastern Bloc. Since then, many former children’s railways have become heritage railways, maintained as historical preservations. The Gyermekvasút railway in Budapest is one of the few children’s railways that still employs youth. ***** DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 45
A JOURNEY ON THE CANADIAN BY LORENA MERUVIA
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ne of the best ways to experience Canada is by climbing aboard on The Canadian¸ the longest train route in North America. This transcontinental train by VIA Rail stretches from Vancouver to Toronto—a distance spanning approximately 4,466 km, taking about 4 days and 4 nights to complete. The trip across Canada allows passengers to go through nine major cities, five provinces, and experience multiple different time zones. A plane ride from Vancouver to Toronto (or vice-versa) is a much faster option, but it comes at the expense of the best views Canada as to offer. Like VIA Rail’s motto says, “Beauty has no shortcuts.” Founded by Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) in 1955, as a transcontinental passenger train between Montreal and Vancouver, the Canadian part of a to compete with the innovative American trains of the 1950s, like the California Zephyr, which adopted all-stainless-steel cars with domed observation cars. Once passengers start their journey in Toronto, they will be able to experience the beauty of the Canadian Shield—the ancient core of North America and one of the world’s largest geologic continental shields. In addition, they will be able to see rockysmooth hills that have stood the test of time, accompanied by rivers and lakes. Along this same landscape, the views of the Boreal Forest can also be appreciated—it is in fact, one of the world’s last remaining intact forests. If people pay close enough attention, they might catch glimpses of deer, moose, and even bears. After going through the city of Edmonton, passengers will get great views of the Canadian Rockies. This part of the trip will allow them to see Moose Lake and the Continental Divide, which divides a continent’s river systems. In addition, the train passes by the ice sheet of the Albreda Glacier, Pyramid Falls, and summit of Mount Robson, the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies. After having witnessed all these views, the train will finally arrive to its final destination in the city of Vancouver. Not only would a ride on this train allow anyone to see these impressive views, but it would allow them to be able to capture them as well. The Canadian contains the famous “Dome” Car, which is considered one of the best parts about traveling across Canada. Unlike other cars in The Canadian, this car is taller than other cars and contains a 360-degree scenic dome which allows passengers to get a full panoramic view of the journey. The dome is something that Bob Johnston, correspondent for Trains Magazine, can attest to as he’s had multiple experiences riding The Canadian. Of all the seasons, he believes winter is the best time to travel because “the scenery is spectacular.” In addition to 48 | AROUND THE WORLD
the views and places delineated above, Mr. Johnston adds that the train will also pass by places like Sioux Lookout, which have neighboring First Nation communities. In addition, he adds that people can stop by major cities like Winnipeg and Jasper along the way as well to expand their experiences of the country. At the time of its creation, CPR was able to claim The Canadian as “the first and only all-stainless steel ‘dome’ steam-liner in Canada.” Unfortunately a few years later, passenger train ridership began to decline in the 1960s due to increased competition from airlines and increased car usage due to the construction of the Trans-Canadian Highway. Although The Canadian’s operating levels were reduced in the 1970s, it was never fully shut down. In 1978, the VIA Rail, a federal corporation, took over The Canadian and other CPR passenger trains and services. The Canadian Government created the VIA Rail to mirror the U.S. model of government involvement in the passenger business, allowing them to also have full control over Canada’s passenger trains. In 1990, VIA Rail dropped the Montreal section of The Canadian’s trip and instead added stops to Saskatoon and Edmonton. So famous is The Canadian that you can even find it being honored on the $10 Canadian bill, which was issued in 2013. Regardless of anyone’s budget, there are a variety of accommodations available to meet everyone’s needs. By riding The Canadian, passengers will get to experience most of Canada’s different landscapes in a single trip, which is much more that any flight trip can offer. In addition, private cars in trains allow for a much safer travel option than planes, which is especially important and valued during these unprecedented times. ***** DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 49
A TRAIN THAT LED TO A CANAL BY LORENA MERUVIA
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anama is a country famous for many things—one of them being the historical construction of the artificial canal. But what many do not know, however, is that its construction would not have been possible had it not been for the prior creation of a railway in the 1840s. This railway is debated to be the oldest Transcontinental train in the world. Currently, the Panama Canal Railway runs alongside its route, attracting visitors while serving as a living representation of this historic railway. Since as early as the 1500s, when the Spanish found the area which is now present-day Panama, governments and businesses have searched for a way to join the two oceans (Atlantic and Pacific) together. The reason being that if a connection was made, it would be more profitable and offer a faster way of reaching Asia and the western side of the Americas than going around Cape Horn—the southernmost tip of South America. It was not until the 1800s that the first initiative was taken to make this idea into a reality. In 1832, the United States government sent Colonel Charles Biddle to Panama to negotiate a compromise for the construction of the railroad. A little more than a decade later, the construction contract was given to a company headed by George M. Totten and John G. Trautwine in 1849 and in 1850, they started building the railroad. By January 28th, 1855, the transcontinental railroad ran from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean for the first time, shortening the length of travel from days to a couple of hours. The newly constructed railway was a single track that spanned for 47 miles, and over the next few decades, renovations were made to it. The train served to move freight and gold across the isthmus. Travel writer Robert Tomes, described the train in 1855 as: “gliding mile after mile, and…so smoothly…through deep marsh…as firm now a stone pavement” while passengers “lounged at our ease…and smoked, and talked, and looked with admiring wonder upon the tropical profusion of beauty.” In 1904, President Roosevelt appointed an Isthmian Canal Commission to build the Panama Canal in the same location as the railroad. That is why the railroad was relocated by 1912. By 1977, the U.S. Government relinquished their control of the Panama Railroad and the control was given over to the Government of Panama under the terms of the Carter-Torrijos Treaty. By 1997, the railroad was in a state of decline due to a lack of funding - its function would have stopped altogether had not 52 | AROUND THE WORLD
been privatized and handed over to the Panama Canal Railway Company in 1998. In 2000, the railway was reconstructed and by 2001, passenger service began. Currently, the Panama Canal Railway connects the Panamanian cities of Colón and Balboa—the route is exactly 47.6 miles long, taking about an hour in duration. It runs alongside the original route of the transcontinental railroad and offers passenger service daily—its primary function, however, is to move cargo between Atlantic and Pacific ports. The passenger trains offer tourists and locals an opportunity to view the Canal, the terrain, tropical rainforest, and to enjoy looking at all the flora and fauna that the country of Panama has to offer. Without the help of the transcontinental railroad, the worldfamous Panama Canal would have never been built. Although its original tracks are no longer functioning, its sister railway remains is a reminder of this grand innovation that inspired the making of other famous transcontinental railroads and served as proof of what humans were capable of accomplishing. ***** DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 53
THE TAZARA RAILWAY BY CLAUDIA CHEN
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rom Dar es Salaam in Tanzania to Kapari Mposhi in Zambia, the Tazara railway takes you across eastern and southern Africa. It has become one of the best ways to see Zambia’s beautiful scenery and experience the local culture of both countries.
Completed in 1975, this 56-hour leisure train travels 1860 kilometers through some of the most beautiful scenery in Africa. Glide by the Selous Game Reserve and witness warthogs, baboons, guinea fowl in their natural habitat; admire waterfalls, rivers, valleys, rainforests, highlands, and mountains while breathing fresh, crisp air through the open windows. You won’t need to worry about traveling too fast to admire the scenery, as at some points, Tazara trains travel at less than 30km an hour. Other than its scenic value, the people are also part of what makes this train ride enjoyable. When stopping in villages, local women will approach the train while balancing baskets full of fruit on top of their heads and engage in sales with passengers. Villages also vary from each other, with some proffering busy marketplaces, where others have small huts. Since Tazara is a form of local transportation, there are also plenty of locals on the train who are willing to chat with you and practice English while you practice Swahili. The Tazara railway is also known as the Uhuru Railway, which means “freedom” in Swahili. Zambia is naturally rich in copper, which makes up 70% of the country’s exports. Though British colonizers considered building a similar railway route to transport copper in the 19th century, the idea was shut down because it would be unprofitable for Westerners. Eventually, in the 1960s, the construction began as a cooperative result between the Zambian, Tanzanian, and Chinese governments to eliminate landlocked Zambia’s economic dependence on Rhodesia (present-day Zimbabwe) and South Africa’s white-minority ruled governments. Totaling USD $500 million (USD $2.6 billion today), the Tazara railway became China’s largest single foreign aid project at the time. Despite critics calling the railway project a “500 million dollar mistake”, the railway was successfully completed in 1975. Starting commercial operations in 1976, Tazara became the only trade route from the sea to newly liberated Zambia’s copper belt that did not traverse white-dominated cities important to the old regime. However, the railway faced operational difficulties and required additional Chinese support to retain operations in 1987. The European Economic Community (Sweden, Australia, France, Germany, and others) also issued around USD $150 million in foreign aid between 1987 and 1993. The United States helped as well, providing foreign support through USAID by offering locomo56 | AROUND THE WORLD
tives and training. With this collective effort between European countries, China, and the U.S., Tazara’s transport capacity became more efficient and improved. Serving as the longest railway in sub-Saharan Africa, Tazara is much more than just a railway. Other than assisting Zambia’s landlocked economy, Tazara has also been able to help other landlocked nations along its route such as Malawi, Burundi, and Rwanda. The railway has improved life for locals, allowing farmers to plant more diverse crops, facilitating trade between cities, allowing settlements to expand in size, and building even larger developments such as water plants and paper mills. To this day, Tazara symbolizes the power of foreign aid and international bond. During the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics, when the Olympic torch passed through six continents, the only stop in Africa began at the Tazara grand terminal station in Tanzania. Though the 56-hour trip is occasionally delayed, the train provides a unique experience to travel through Africa. There are two passenger trains every week in each direction, departing on Tuesdays and Fridays. ***** DIPLOMATIC COURIER | 57
THE DEATH RAILWAY BY CLAUDIA CHEN
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he Burma Railway, better known as the Death Railway, connects Ban Pong, Thailand to Thanbyuzayat, Burma. Stretching 415 kilometers, the railway consists of 111 kilometers in Burma and another 304 kilometers in Thailand. The Burma Railway is scenic, but it is mainly known for its historical significance. As train rides provide a unique way to experience any local culture, it is one of the best ways to immerse oneself in the railway’s history and the natural beauty of Thailand and Burma. The train ride includes the scenic Wang Pho Viaduct, which crosses an original wood trestle bridge called Tham Krasae along the Kwai Noi River, clinging to the cliffside. Past Kanchanaburi, passengers start witnessing the valley and a breathtaking riverside landscape. The trains slow down when passing important and scenic parts of the trip to allow passengers to get a better view, with the ability to open carriage doors throughout the trip. After invading and conquering Burma, the Japanese Empire ordered the construction of the Burma Railway in 1942 to transport weapons and supplies for the Burma Campaign of World War II. Construction began separately in Burma and Thailand and met in the middle when completed in 1943. Critics often attribute the speedy completion of the railway to the large number of workers involved in the construction. Of the 330,000 workers, over 100,000 died resulting in the nickname of Death Railway. Imperial Japan moved 60,000 prisoners of war from Changi Prison in Singapore and other Southeast Asian prison camps to worksites, recruited/coerced Southeast Asian civilian laborers called romusha, and employed Japanese soldiers to serve as project supervisors. There were very harsh conditions during construction, with workers dying of malnutrition, starvation, and illnesses including cholera and malaria. The death rate among romusha laborers was extremely high, estimating to 50 percent during construction. Life in the POW camps was particularly disturbing, with human hair often used as brushes and blood used as paint. The construction of the Burma Railway is seen as a war crime committed by Japan and led to the sentencing of 111 Japanese and Korean soldiers after WWII, including 32 death sentences. Various books and films have been created by past prisoners about their experience on the railway, including the Oscar-winning film The Bridge on the River Kwai (1952), and the award-winning novel by Eric Lomax The Railway Man. One of the most famous bridges on the railway is the Kwai Bridge over the Mar Klong River. The bridge was originally made of wood in 1942, and a steel version was built next to it in 1943 but was bombed just two years later. The steel bridge was repaired next to the original wood-made bridge to honor those who sacrificed their lives to build 60 | AROUND THE WORLD
it. Though the restored steel bridge no longer permits train traffic, it is open to foot traffic and stands as a famous landmark in Kanchanaburi Province. Also, in Kanchanaburi sits the Thai-Burma Railway Center, the JEATH Museum, and the “Don Rak” War Cemetery. The JEATH Museum is the oldest death railway-related museum, and its name is an abbreviation of the countries involved in the construction of the railway—Japan, England, America/Australia, Thailand, and Holland. Another significant experience to be found along the railway is Hellfire Pass. The Pass was especially hard to build because it required the removal of a large rock that blocked the railway’s path. The Pass earned its name because the image of laborers working by torchlight was said to resemble Hell. Prisoners of war and laborers were ordered to work for more than 18 hours a day, and 69 men were beaten to death during the six weeks of construction. Today, Hellfire Pass is no longer open to trains and has been converted into the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum. Though the museum is not accessible by train, it is an important part of the railway’s history and can be accessed by daily buses from Kanchanaburi. A complete experience of this historic railway usually consists of the JEATH and Hellfire museums, the bridge, and the train ride. To this day, many walk over the bridge and reflect on the extreme conditions the men suffered to build the railway. The most popular train route that includes both the River Kwai Bridge and Kanchanaburi is Kanchanaburi—Nam Tok, which is approximately two hours long. There are three daily trains that travel along this route. *****
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AROUND THE WORLD The first bookazine of Diplomatic Courier’s Around the World travel series launched on UN’s World Tourism Day to support an industry that needs it the most in the time of COVID-19. “Tourism and Rural Development” celebrates the sector’s unique ability to drive economic development and provide opportunities outside of big cities, including in those communities that would otherwise be left behind. www.diplomaticourier.com/channel/around-the-world