RESTAURANT It’s game on at The Elder

THE ELDER Bath’s newest hotel also boasts one of its most impressive restaurants, with a distinctive theme, real character, and top-notch talent in the kitchen. Game on! By Matt Bielby

Autumn is here, and it’s time to start kicking through the leaves, breaking out the woolies, and reconsidering our relationship with wild animals: how bewitching and natural and bonny they are, and the best places to currently eat them.

Bath hasn’t really had a game specialist before, but in The Elder – the restaurant offering at the vast, just-opened Hotel Indigo on South Parade – we now boast one to be proud of, a purveyor of out-of-the-ordinary meats which manages to be wholesome, comforting and downright delicious on the one hand, and on the other somewhat fancy. That it never veers into the fussy – fancy’s regular bedfellow – shows just how well judged an offering this is.

Hotel dining isn’t always exciting – it’s too often a parody of itself, stuffy and generic – but things don’t have to be that way. Rather than some vast, impersonal dining room – which Hotel Indigo lacks, being built of endless Georgian terraces, each knocked through into the next – you eat in a series of more modest (though still impressive) rooms running along the front of the building. There are three main ones, each offering twenty covers or so – the entire restaurant has maybe 55 in all, at least in these socially distanced times – so you don’t need too many people to get it nicely buzzing.

Much of what makes The Elder so good is that there’s a guiding intelligence behind the whole thing, from the gentleman’s club leather banquets and stuffed pheasants on the walls to a game-heavy menu that dovetails with the look perfectly. Much of this is down to executive chef Mike Robinson, a proper outdoorsman with a true ‘field to fork’ sensibility – he’s a Saturday Kitchen regular, owns the Michelin starred Fulham gastro pub The Harwood Arms, and delivers venison to London’s best restaurants (some which he shoots himself). Also on hand, and more regularly in the kitchen here: group head chef Gavin Edney, who shares his time with sister restaurant The Woodsman in Stratford Upon Avon. You’ve got to be impressed by the fact that these guys manage the deer herds on local estates themselves, and grow their own herbs and veggies in a kitchen garden.

Before dinner we enjoyed a pleasant half hour sampling the extensive cocktail menu at the bar, with its fancy light fittings and ’40s New York vibe. We took one classic (an Aviation, a gin slipper from the early 20th century) and another more recent invention (a Jalisco Picante), both of which were confidently put together but less punchy than we’d hoped for, the Aviation (for instance) lacking its traditional vibrant violet hue.

From this point on, though, The Elder really upped its game, barely putting a foot wrong: everything was high quality, convivial and gently surprising, a true feast of foresty foods. The a la carte menu – constantly changing with the seasons and availability – offers two courses for £37.50

or three for £45; if you’re vegetarian or vegan, there are separate versions and you can mix and match between the three.

We ate from the meaty menu, which offers five choices of starters, mains and puds, semi-accidentally picking two neatly contrasting meals, one all game (Berkshire hare faggot with mushrooms and heritage carrot, followed by Bathurst Estate fallow deer with red cabbage purée, beetroot, dirty mash and sauce grand veneur, awash with blood and red currant), and the other somewhat aquatic. This began with warm Dorset crab tart, before moving onto monkfish with salt-baked celeriac, pickled onion, lovage and bacon.

Piled artfully under a bubbly yellow sauce, my hare was a great entry-level game dish, rich and tasty, while the crab tart was super light, with short, melting pastry. A generous slick of lemon mayo cut through the rich filling, while the herb and shallot topping – described as ‘chimichurri’, though a deconstructed one – added to the impression of freshness.

Both mains, meanwhile, offered a beautiful combination of the heartily basic – great slabs of pink meat; fish covered in bacon panko crumb to resemble giant fish fingers – with unexpected additional elements, be they hedgerow fruits or petals of pink pickled onion. Perhaps most pleasing of all was the little side dish of delightfully decadent ‘dirty mash’, demanding more ingredients than we’ve space to go into here (but each one earning its keep).

This overall impression – of major items coming exactly as you’d want them, and the support acts offering intriguing twists – was reinforced by a handful of unexpected betweencourse treats, of which we’ll mention just one, a tartare of bream, smoked eel and apple, with accompanying squid ink crackers. Amazing.

Puds, too, eschew the obvious: there’s little that’s chocolatey here or lemony, but instead the likes of blackberry tart and wild damson soufflé. We took a very pretty lime meringue pie with its accompanying coconut sorbet, and the caramelised pear mille-feuille, like the poshest version ever of a childhood favourite. “It reminded me, in the best way, of the tinned pears with ice cream and chocolate sauce my mum used to make,” said my companion.

Overall, this was an immensely satisfying evening out, The Elder offering solid service, a great look, and almost note perfect food, the sort you can imagine a hunting party devouring around a campfire – if they happen to have brought a Michelin star chef along. No faff, little fuss, just warming classics made with love and invention. It seems excellent value for the quality on offer, too. n

“Everything was high quality, convivial and gently surprising, a true feast of foresty foods”

DINING DETAILS The Elder, Hotel Indigo Bath, South Parade, Bath, BA2 4AB; tel: 01225 460441; www.bath.hotelindigo.com We ate One very gamey selection (hare faggots followed by fallow deer), and another from the sea (crab then monkfish); lime meringue pie and caramelised pear for puds too, plus a few unexpected (but very welcome) little treats in between Vegetarian options There’s a separate vegetarian a la carte menu, and a vegan one too – just ask Prices From the standard a la carte you get two courses for £37.50, or three for £45 Drinks An extensive wine list (over 30

whites alone) covering almost every style, ranging from around £25 per bottle to the low hundreds; there are 17 by the glass too (the super smooth, fruit-filled Givry red we paired with the monkfish, for one, was immense), plus two pages of cocktails and endless spirits and beers from the bar Service / atmosphere Masked servers can throw you a bit – not a fixture of course, except in these Covid times – but the guys here are excellent and let their human sides shine through; they know their dishes and wines too What else? It’s hard to remember a Bath launch that has seemingly got everything right straight out of the traps like this; The Elder is immediately one of the city’s very best hotel restaurants, and a must-try addition to the local dining scene

Raise your glass

Great wines, good times is the motto of local independent business CRU WINES EMPORIUM...

Now more than ever is a time to show local businesses our support. Cru Wines, a local independent wine emporium, is more than just a wine shop. Not only does it have an online selection of over 200 quality wines from around the world, but they also offer wine subscriptions, weekly tastings and events, and invaluable advice when it comes to buying wine.

No matter where you explore, what your personal taste is, or what you choose, Cru Wines believe it isn’t just where the wines are from, but where they take you. Visit the emporium in Bradford on Avon to discover hundreds of different wines from around the world, where friendly staff are on hand to help you pick the perfect bottle. With hundreds of different grape varieties, wine regions with a variety of styles, and more accessibility to off the beaten track regions and vineyards, there’s even more choice.

You can now also support local on the go and shop online at www.cruwines.co.uk, where you can find an array of wines, spirits, ciders, beers and gifts. n

Handpicked Wine Subscriptions Explore the world of wine with flexible monthly plans to suit your taste and budget. From just £45.00 per month for six bottles.

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Cru Wines Emporium & Tasting Rooms; 4 Silver Street, Bradford on Avon, BA15 1JX; 01225 862289; info@cruwines.co.uk; www.cruwines.co.uk

FOOD & DRINK

SNAPSHOTS OF BATH’S FOOD SCENE

MASTERCLASS BY MASTER CHEFS

Richard Davies Following positive feedback from locals, B&NES has agreed to extend the vehicle access restrictions on Kingsmeade Square and York Street from 10am until 10pm.

“The introduction of temporary access restrictions at Kingsmead Square, imposed as a result of Covid19, has given us the opportunity to support businesses to gain pavement licences for tables and chairs outside, while still maintaining clear pedestrian routes, facilitating social distancing,” says councillor Joanna Wright, cabinet member for Transport Services.

In addition to aiding the allimportant social distancing, the new, café culture style of the outside seating areas has proved popular with locals enjoying the continental vibe more familiar to a Parisian street than Bath. For more: www.bathnes.co.uk Bath College has launched an exciting new virtual culinary masterclass. The Chef’s Forum Academy will see top chefs and now patrons of the academy, Richard Davies of Calcot Hotel & Spa, chef consultant Michael Nizzero and The Olive Tree’s Chris Cleghorn share their secrets with Bath College’s catering students. Current restrictions mean chefs can’t come to the college and teach in-person, so the team – who all boast their own Michelin star – will teach virtually, presenting filmed recipes followed by a live Q&A over video link.

“The Chefs’ Forum Academy initiative offers the opportunity for accomplished professional chefs to give back to the industry and pass on our knowledge and expertise to the next generation,” explains Richard Davies. “I am delighted to have been asked to become a patron of The Chef’s Forum Academy at Bath college.”

It’s a fantastic opportunity for students to further their culinary skills, but also one for networking in the industry. Students can forge relationships with visiting chefs who will then see them as a familiar face after they graduate and begin the hunt for work.

TAKE IT OUTSIDE

For more: www.thechefsforum.co.uk

Soaking up the sunshine FAST FOOD MADE GOOD

Bring a touch of Vietnam to your kitchen

Cà Tím Nướng – Chilli & Ginger Aubergine stir fry by Noya’s Kitchen Serves 2

Ingredients 1 medium aubergine 2 shallots or a small onion, finely sliced 1 clove minced garlic ½ tablespoon ginger, julienned

Sauce 1 tablespoon brown sugar 3 tablespoons soya sauce 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 to 3 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes ½ teaspoon corn flour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil for frying

Method • Cut the aubergine in half and then lengthways into 2cm thick sticks. Steam the aubergine in a steamer for about five minutes. • Mix the soya sauce, sugar, chilli flakes, salt, rice vinegar and water in a small bowl. Mix well and set aside. • Add 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a hot wok, before adding the steamed aubergine pieces to be browned off for a few minutes. • Move the aubergine to the side of the wok. Add 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil and the shallots, frying until fragrant. Then add the ginger, fry until translucent. Add the garlic, fry for a few seconds and then mix all the ingredients together. • Pour the sauce mixture all over the aubergine and stir until the sauce has thickened. This can happen very quickly! For more: www.noyaskitchen.co.uk

Claire at Dexter’s on Bathwick Hill

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Dexter’s Coffee Shop, the new must-visit spot on Bathwick Hill has proved a massive hit with locals since it opened – just as lockdown restrictions started to lift.

“It’s always been in my mind that I’d have a café of my own one day, it was just a case of finding the right property, and timings,” says Claire Hardy, owner of Dexter’s. “I am a mum to four daughters, so it’s only once they started to leave home I could do something for me, and Dexter’s became my little big project. I always had the vision, so it was easy: a dog-friendly coffee shop with beautiful interiors serving great coffee, delicious pastries and amazing cakes.”

Known for that top-notch coffee and cake, as well as Dexter, the cute pup that is the café’s namesake, we sat down with Claire to learn more about her foodie dos and don’ts.

What’s your desert island dish Pasta – any sauce will do!

What’s your best food memory? My father and I sharing moules frites in the South of France – always eat them by the beach, they taste way better in the sea air – and him telling me the shallot juice is the best bit, and dunking French baguette in to soak up the flavours a must. He was so right. We still share them today when we go away together.

What’s your dinner party staple? Dauphinoise potatoes are an absolute classic for any dinner party, with a side of beef casserole.

What’s your failsafe fast food recipe? A really cheeky British classic: baked beans on toast with a big handful of grated cheddar cheese piled high on top. It’s not gourmet by any means, but ticks the box every time. For more: www.dexterscoffeeshop.com

Award-winning Jersey Curd from Corsham

THE BIG CHEESE

After 14 weeks of judging thousands of entries, The Old Cheese Room in Corsham has won three stars from Great Taste for their Jersey Curd. An absolute treat, judges called it ‘silky and smooth, perfectly firm yet soft’ and praised its ‘wonderful combination of lactic acidity and creaminess.’ Okay, we’re sold.

Julianna Sedli who runs The Old Cheese Room with her husband Karim, was thrilled to learn of their win. She says, “We were really pleased – it feels great to get recognition for the fruit of your labour. Judges were really complimentary and our Jersey Curd seemed to appeal to everyone. It is a great boost to our business and it will help to get people acquainted with our other products like the Natural Live Yoghurt, Baronet and Lypiatt.” For more: www.theoldcheeseroom.com

ABSOLUTELY NUTS!

Bath’s nut-mad residents, the Squirrel Sisters are set to release a brand-new range of no added sugar snacks. The upcoming range by the real-life sisters, otherwise known as Grace and Sophie Tyrrell (and who aren;t squirrels_ includes smoked almonds, salt and cider vinegar almonds, chilli cashews and sea salt and black cracked pepper cashews as well as their crunchy crackers in smoked paprika and crispy onion flavours. Grace and Sophie are driven by a passion for creating tasty, sugar-free snacks.

“Sugar is a huge issue. It’s detrimental to our health and it frustrates me that it’s taken a global pandemic for the government to start taking action,” says Sophie. “We have been and will continue to campaign against sugar by offering our consumers a fantastic and delicious alternative.”

You’ll find the new Squirrel Sisters range in Holland & Barrett from next month. For more: www.squirrelsisters.com