6 minute read
RESTAURANT The newly refurbished Moorfields goes down a treat
by MediaClash
THE MOORFIELDS
Sarah Moolla finds it’s a case of more, more, more please at the newly refurbed Moorfields pub
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You know that bit at the end of a restaurant to the old Moorfields, it’s one of those sorts of pubs we review when the writer vows to return all knew and loved growing up – Big D salted peanuts because they’ve loved it so much. And behind the bar stuck to a board that would eventually you wonder – do they mean that? Or are reveal a busty babe; a spongy old dartboard; sticky red they just fobbing us off because they can’t swirly carpets; and a big annoying bell for clanging ‘time think of how to end the review? Well, gentleman please’. But if places like this don’t evolve, no such hackneyed false pay off lines they get shunned. A few of the party faithful might here, because, cards on the refurbed table, I love The hang on in there nursing their halves of bitter and the Moorfields so much, I’ve been back, not once, but twice. occasional Barcadi Breezer, but nobody new is going to
I was vaguely aware of Moorfields before Joe Cussens be tempted in. and his Bath Pub Company got their turn-water- But The Moorfields’ transformation, just weeks into into-wine mitts on it, with the help of Stonegate Pub opening, has them flocking in, new and old alike. Its Company. Not far from the Moorland Road, and en arrival, while it might have been tricky timing for Joe’s route to the Linear Way, it was a dishevelled-looking team, was a godsend for the rest of us. A statuesque and giant of a boozer, tired, grubby and in no way inviting. elegant, yet cosy cocoon of a gastropub, born in the So I never visited, and I’m hard pressed to find anyone midst of a pandemic, suggesting that progression is still who has, except one friend’s mum who went ‘back in the possible despite these bleak times, but also offering an day to play skittles and drink rum and cokes.’ In fairness immediate and welcome refuge from the outside world
for a few hours.
It helps that Joe is an old hand at this new and improved boozer malarky, with his co-owned Bath Pub Company currently operating The Hare & Hounds, The Marlborough Tavern, and The Locksbrook Inn, all in Bath. “We first came across Moorfields in 2016, but we’d just done the Locksbrook and the timing wasn’t right to take on such a big project.”
In fact, Joe ended up signing the lease on the pub on 23 March of this year. “Part of me was terrified about putting pen to paper and confirming that commitment, and another part of me was terrified about not getting this over the line. But while I knew it was a scary time coming into lockdown, I knew we’d come out of it and then it was a really good site for long term – we just had to have faith with that intuition.”
Lockdown did mean the joint investment £500,000 refurbishment was delayed by a few months, but maybe this worked in the pub’s favour, “What we’ve ended up with is a really well-thought out operation, which was always our intention. From where the kitchen is going to be, where the car park is, entrances, exits points, store rooms – all the unglamorous things we need to plan in order for it to work really well.”
Also of course, Joe ended up planning for a Covid safe layout, which means for us punters it works a dream in terms of feeling secure. Table service, clear labelling, socially distant layouts, as well as efficient and friendly staff around at all times cleaning tables, answering questions, and facilitating the flow.
And the food’s not bad either. Interestingly as well, it’s all cooked by induction. “It’s our first all-induction kitchen, which is positive in so many ways,” says Joe. “It’s cleaner, greener, quieter, cooler and basically provides a much better environment for our kitchen staff to work their magic in.”
To add to the magic, Joe has brought in Jack Scarterfield, who has 2 AA Rosettes and is long-standing head chef from sister pub, The Marlborough Tavern. He’s created a menu of contemporary crowd pleasers
clockwise left: How Moorfields looks now after the £500,000 transformation; then there was in a skittle alley in the corner of the main room; the décor of the original Moorfields was dated
with a few retro numbers thrown in.
On my first visit, I go for a generous sized starter of sea-fresh juicy prawn cocktail garnished with slices of just-ripe avocado, gem lettuce and rye bread. My main of Thai sweetcorn burger with red chilli jam, slaw, skinny fries and aioli is a satisfying kaleidoscope of colours, tastes and textures. My companion declares her salt and pepper squid with homemade chilli jam and fresh lime to deliver just the right amount of kick, bite and crispiness. And her proper chicken Kiev with mashed potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and roasted garlic butter is a refined take on a comforting classic. My pudding is the vegan dark chocolate and coconut brownie, deep and rich and offset with a serving of salted caramel ice cream.
My return visits involve the mixed meat with BBQ jerk wings, Moroccan lamb meatballs, pulled beef brisket, chilli and celeriac slaw, the freshly-baked, still warm breads with hummus, olive tapenade, pesto, and herby butter. But for me, the surprise winner is discovered on my third visit, the house loaded nachos with beef brisket chilli, melted cheese, jalapeños, sour-cream and guacamole. Don’t ask me what the secret is, I don’t know, except I wanted to eat them all, with my arm around the plate. But ‘apparently’ that’s just greedy and wrong, and I wasn’t allowed to. So, I vow to return because I love them so much. On my own, and I won’t have to share. n
DINING DETAILS The Moorfields, 73 Third Avenue, Oldfield Park, BA2 3NZ; tel: 01225 982102; www.themoorfields.com Opening hours 8am-10pm – serving breakfast 8am-11am, lunch 11am-4pm and dinner 4pm-8pm Type of food served The Moorfields offers classic, home-cooked pub favourites with fresh ingredients and a twist of extra personality Prices Starters cost between £4.50 - £8, mains: £9.50 - £24.50, desserts £1.50 - £7.00 Vegetarian options yes – lots plus many glutenfree and and vegan dishes listed Drinks choice Extensive wine list, house ales, premium spirits Outdoor seating At the time of press, this was still being constructed but is impressively large with plenty of seating and all-weather cover being arranged Service / atmosphere Just lovely – a real sense of the Bath community coming together to have a great time and support a new and exciting venture Anything else? Please, please, please ring ahead and book. The only thing that slightly marred the evening was seeing hopeful diners being turned away.
