RESTAURANT Bocabar at Finzels

BOCABAR Sister to the popular flagship restaurant at Paintworks, Bocabar 2.0 has settled nicely into its new digs at Finzels Reach, and is taking the riverside by storm

Words by Meg Coast Photos by Ben Robins www.benrobinsphoto.com

The redevelopment of Finzels Reach continues apace. Situated right in the heart of the city centre, and now home to a thriving hub of cafés, restaurants, shops and other businesses, including the new Channel 4 hub, it’s rapidly become one of the most deirable places to place to live, work and play.

The vibe is modem, urban and relaxed, so it wasn’t too surprising when Bocabar’s co-owners Mel and Paul Eavis chose a prime spot in the historic Fermentation Buildings to open a second site last year, Bocabar 2.0 serves up the familiar all-day offering, with a new menu of small and big plates, 20 of the most loved Boca pizzas and a burger and salads menu. With executive chef Jason McNeilly overseeing the menu, joined by head chef Jacob Norris and head pizza chef Ben Sacree, it seemed pretty much a failsafe recipe for success for this established and highly regarded team.

A preliminary once-over of the interior as you walk in confirms that the .inbels :each site is very much part of the Boca family. The décor has an eclectic feel; orange velvet drapes, tasselled lamps and cosy +hesterfields team with reclaimed wood and copper features. It’s stylish, yet reassuringly cosy – rustic and vintage, with a touch of luxury. They’ve also kept up the laudable tradition of featuring local artists’ work – we were particularly taken with the anthropomorphised critters wearing tuxedos and top hats by Bristol artist Julian Quaye.

The place is designed with both drinkers and diners in mind – those Rust coming in for a Yuick pint after work will find plenty of cosy nooks and long tables to suit any kind of revelry; if you’re looking to sample the menu, hold fast and one of the charming staff will have you whisked to your dining table pronto.

)fter settling into our spot by the bar, and brieÆy admiring the Æoral chalkboard-style backdrop, we turned our sights on the extensive drinks menu. Saving us from extended deliberation, our lovely waiter Tess piqued our interest in Bocabar’s ‘closed-loop cocktails’, made with alternatives to the traditional, waste and emission-heavier ingredients. We had faith that aquafaba (leftover juice from canned chickpeas that mimics the properties of egg whites) would taste better than it sounded, and took Tess up on her recommendation with optimistic caution. DINING DETAILS Bocabar, Fermentation 1, Hawkins Lane, Finzels Reach, Bristol BS1 6JQ; 0117 374 1898; bocabarfinzels@outlook.com Opening Hours Mon9.30am-4pm; Tue-Thu 9:30am-11pm; Fri-Sat 9:30am-1-am (manager’s discretion); Sunday 10am-5pm ) We visited Tuesday dinner time Prices small plates £2.95-£5.95; big plates £11.50- £16.45; pizzas from £9.95-£14.95; burgers and wraps £7-£12; salads £6-£10.95; desserts £3.95- £7; cocktails £7.75-£8.50; bottle of wine from £15 Veggie options Wide selection of vegetarian, vegan and dairy-free dishes Atmosphere and service Comfortable and relaxed ambience with charming, observant knowledgeable staff My fruity Frambamdelam was true to its description – ‘a whole load of raspberry and a whole load of delight’– striking a perfect balance between sour and sweet. My companion’s alarmingly-titled Amoxicillin, a bright Nordic blend of mead and whiskey, was made with food-grade citric acid, and tasted every bit as delicious without lemon or lime. A not so-small-plate of piping hot, jerk-marinated chicken wings were next on the table, and we tucked with reckless abandon, singeing our mouths in our greed. I initially found the wings a little delicately seasoned for my liking, but discovered that missing something after giving them a generous roll around the vivid green coconut and coriander pistou.

Firm and satisfyingly chewy, the salt and pepper squid weren’t quite as crispy as the menu promised, but were enjoyable all the same, with the subtle Æavour lifted by the smoky basil and piquillo pepper coulis.

The real show-stealers were the large plates; mine was an exquisitely spiced coconut and tomato *rabilian fish stew crammed with prawns, mussels and crispy-skinned sea bream, cooked to tender perfection with a delicate Æavour and meaty texture. +ourgettes and potatoes made the perfect pairing, and vibrant stalks of samphire grass sprinkled throughout the dish added a satisfying salty crunch.

Meanwhile, my more carnivorously-inclined partner was making decent headway on his cassoulet, a rich, meaty medley of confit duck leg, pancetta, pork belly, morteau sausage, smoked morcilla, cannellini beans, and the king of leafy greens, cavolo nero. A few mouthfuls proved enough for me, but this dish would undoubtedly be a sure-fire hit with fans of well-Æavoured and hearty fare.

Defeated, we’d intended to swerve dessert, but had our arms twisted into sharing a baked lemon tart that came highly rated by Tess. We saw why; its sweet, sharp filling and crumbly base with the smooth crvme fraiche was a perfect palate-cleansing denouement to the meal.

*ocabar is the sort of place you go to for great, filling grub, and linger for the ambience. Whether you’re aged eight or 80, there’s the ideal corner for you somewhere in the joint, and the chirpy, charismatic staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome, ensuring you have everything you need without any of the unnecessary Æuff.

Come summer the outdoor terrace will absolutely be the place to be, but on this cold February night we’re very much at home inside, and happy to report that this Bocabar has found its feet in Finzels Reach. n