CRUMBS BAT H & BRISTO L NO.81 OCTOBER 2018
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ISSUE 81 OCTOBER 2018 EDITOR
JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR J O N R E ID PHOTO GRA P H Y
MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ONLINE EDITOR
DAN IZZARD dan.izzard@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR
TREVOR GILHAM ADVERTISING MANAGER
KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER
NObOdy's saLt but Mine
ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE
NATALIE BRERETON Natalie.Brereton@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION DESIGNER
GEMMA SCRINE gemma.scrine@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk large version
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IT’S PRETT Y IRONIC, isn’t it, that something that has no colour, is basically seethrough, and pretty much smells of nothing is probably the most important tool on any cook’s proverbial belt. But, then, salt is an ingredient of contradictions: it may look and smell pretty unassuming but, of course, it has a very distinct taste; it’s wholeheartedly savoury, yet can bring out sweetness; it melts ice, but raises the boiling point of water; it’s fundamental for us to live, but can easily make us unhealthy. We’ve dedicated double the normal amount of pages to investigate this month’s Hero Ingredient – enjoy swotting up. Embracing the very British and seasonal predictability of talking about the weather, it’s getting a bit chilly out there, no? My Dr Martens have been retrieved from the back of the wardrobe and, I imagine, shall be in full force for pretty much the next six months. (Yeah, I should expand my winter footwear collection, really.) The change in season doesn’t just affect clothing choices, though; it’s about now that we start to crave richer, more hearty dishes, and more full-bodied drinks – not to mention cosy environments to see them off in. Which is why we’ve compiled a list of some great local pubs where you can settle in for the long haul and enjoy the aforementioned refreshments. It’s also why we’re encouraging both restaurants and punters to get involved with the Street Smart campaign, to raise money for local charities that will be supporting the homeless this winter (see the news pages for info – it honestly couldn’t be easier to help). One last thing: as I write, the Crumbs Awards are mere days away, and I could not be more excited. Fancy rubbing shoulders with local culinary rock stars over awesome entertainment and great food and drink? Head to getawriggleon.com for tickets – stat!
This month we’ve been making sausages at Pigsty, tucking into food over board games at Chance and Counters, and eating our way around Abergavenny food festival.
Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk Did you know we have an app? You can read both editions of Crumbs – Bath and Bristol, and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Search ‘Crumbs’, or go to crumbsmag.com
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TABLE OF CONTENTs NO.81 OCTOBER 2018
STARTERS 08 HERO INGREDIENT What a re-salt! 16 OPENINGS ETC A fresh batch of gossip 29 LOCAVORE The restaurants farming their own produce 35 SIX PACK Alternative breakfasts to start the day right CHEF! Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens and cooks 48 Spiced squash soup, by Hywel Jones 50 Partridge two ways, by Liam Finnegan 53 Cinnamon toast with stewed plums, by Brett St Clair 57 Nasi goreng, by Genevieve Taylor 61 Mussels with cider and celeriac, by Phil James 65 Butterflied sardines on pan catalan, by Todd Francis 65 Chilli and rosemary squid, by Todd Francis ADDITIONAL RECIPES
14 Salt baked bream, by Freddy Bird
39 Iranian herb fritters, by Yotam Ottolenghi 86 Blackened spatchcock chicken, by Melissa Hemsley 86 Quinoa and tomato salad, by Melissa Hemsley KITCHEN ARMOURY 77 SUPPER CLUB A fire feast at Roth Bar and Grill 92 INSIDE SCOOP Kitchen advice from the interiors pros MAINS 109 COMFORT EATING Great spots to cosy up in this autumn 118 GRILLED Niki Segnit on becoming an intuitive cook AFTERS New and notable restaurants, cafés and bars 132 Pigsty 135 Menu Gordon Jones 142 Otira 144 The Packhorse PLUS! 146 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Coffee buff Eddie Twitchett spills the, er, beans
STA RT E Rs
INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES 14 October CRUMBS AWARDS
Hey, you! Fancy a funpacked night out, filled with lots of great food and drink, top comedy from stand-up pro and all-round funny man Mark Olver, music from one of our fave Bristol bands, 45s, and the chance to party with local culinary rock stars? Get yourself a ticket to the Crumbs Awards then before they all go, and prepare to be entertained and inspired at the newly reopened Bristol Old Vic. (Remember to bring your dancing shoes, as well as your best applause.) Visit the website for ticket info. crumbsmagawards.com
14 October WELLS FOOD FESTIVAL
This free, family-friendly festival is in its sixth year, and is returning to the pretty market city of Wells for another celebration of Somerset food and drink. More than 150 local producers and street food vendors will be setting up shop to take part in the city-wide Artisan Market, while a programme of talks, debates and demos will be taking place too, as well as agricultural activities to get involved with in the Farmyard area. wellsfoodfestival.co.uk
20-21 October WILD AND WELL This new festival is all about exploring ways to live happier and healthier, by moving, connecting, exploring and, of course, eating. The ‘eat’ programme takes place at Ashton Court and focuses on food that’s not just good for our bodies, but the planet too. There are demos and workshops aplenty, and the likes of Tom Hunt, Zoe Adjonyoh and Steven Lamb will be in attendance. Day and weekend tickets are available; visit the website for more info. wildandwell.org
FiLL yeR BOOts
DIG OUT THAT WINTER FOOTWEAR AND MAKE TRACKS TO ONE OF THESE ACE FOODIE EVENTS HAPPENING OVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS…
Genevieve Taylor will be cooking over fire with Jo Ingleby
1 November FOOD FIRE EARTH’S DAY OF THE DEAD SUPPER
Genevieve Taylor and Jo Ingleby are back with their second pop-up event – and boy, is it going to be a fun one. Held at Yurt Lush, this Bristol take on the Mexican Day of the Dead fiesta will see a huge seasonal feast cooked over flames. Expect tamale, empandilla, slowroast pork belly pibil, woodfired veg and classic Mexican tres leche cake. The bar will be serving tequila-based concoctions too, and there will be DJs and dancing into the night. Tickets are £35; book by emailing Gen on gen@genevievetaylor.co.uk. twitter.com/foodfireearth
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SALT
SALT’S IN A CONSTANT TUSSLE WITH ITS SUPER-SWEET LOOKALIKE, SUGAR, FOR THE TITLE OF ‘MOST CONTROVERSIAL INGREDIENT IN THE KITCHEN’, BUT THERE’S ONE THING WE ALL AGREE ON – IT MAKES ALMOST EVERYTHING TASTE BETTER. SALT, YOU MAY BE BAD FOR US IN EXCESS, BUT YOU KNOW WHAT? YOU’RE SODIUM CUTE!
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S T A R T E R S
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alt is everywhere. It’s the main chemical constituent of seawater; it’s been pivotal in the growth of almost every civilisation in human history; and it crops up (usually in a symbolic role these days, though it wasn’t always so) in most of the world’s great religions. It has a starring part at many weddings and funerals, it wards off evil spirits, and it attracts worshippers to shrines. The Book of Job in the Bible even gives the first known serving tips: “Can that which is unsavoury be eaten without salt? Or is there any taste in the white of an egg?” it asks. To which we’d usually answer yes and yes, but that it doesn’t mean a little salt wouldn’t improve things in either case. It’s also, of course, the great villain in modern food scares, up there with such previous Big Bads as saturated fat and sugar. (As far back as the ’70s, it was being called, ‘the deadly white powder you already snort’.) There is clearly quite a lot to say about the white stuff, then. Here is our grain-by-grain guide… THE GREAT CHEF Ferran Adrià of the former elBulli, which was regularly judged one of the best restaurants in the world, is a great fan of salt. (Of course, all good cooks are.) He once called salt, “the only product that changes cuisine.” And that’s because it does two things at once: we love it in itself – that’s a natural human desire, as we need it to live, just like we need water – and we love what it does to other flavours, too. Salt brings every other element into sharper focus, you see, by enhancing both the sweet and the savoury, suppressing bitterness, and even turning up the volume on smell. Truly it’s a miracle, then, and we use it in the vast majority of meals. Nobody would suggest cutting it out of our diets entirely – even if such a thing were possible – but we also know that too much salt is a potential health disaster. The trick, it seems, is to know when and where to use it to maximise the benefits – and minimise the harm.
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8,000 YEARS AGO, Neolithic peoples were boiling sea water to extract salt across the known world, from Romania to China, and it’s the rare ancient culture – certainly not the Greeks or Romans, Egyptians or Hittites – that didn’t prize salt above almost everything short of gold, mining it and even going to war over it. (Venice vs Genoa was a big one.) Much later on, an oppressive salt tax was said to be one of the causes of the French Revolution. People would trade in it across the Mediterranean, the Sahara and beyond. They’d seal deals with salt, build roads specifically to transport it, and even use it as currency. The word ‘salary’ comes from the Latin word for salt (though there’s little evidence that anyone ever got given a bag of salt as a wage) as, indeed, does ‘salad’ (meaning ‘salted’), from the Roman love of salting leafy veg. The place we believe to have been Europe’s first city – Solnitsata in Bulgaria –
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S T A R T E R S
is actually named nothing more or less glamorous than ‘salt works’, and almost certainly began as a salt mine, while, closer to home, Liverpool grew from a minor regional centre to one of the world’s most important ports through its export of local salt. The ‘-wich‘ bit in English place names often indicates a place where you could get your hands on salt too, as in Norwich, Nantwich, Droitwich et al. THESE DAYS, WE only eat about six percent of the hundreds of millions of tonnes of salt we produce – the rest of it goes into making plastics and paper, soaps and aluminium, and into farming and water conditioning and the de-icing of roads – yet it remains perhaps the most versatile, vital, and most universally applied cooking ingredient there is. Saltiness is, after all, one of the five basic human tastes, so it’s no surprise that – across the planet and throughout history – it’s been an essential and ubiquitous seasoning. Salting is also one of the earliest and most crucial methods of food preservation, salt fish being a major export of civilisations like ancient Egypt. These days the Egyptians don’t make much salt, and though Germany is still a big producer – the biggest in Europe, anyway – even that industry is dwarfed by those of the real giants: India, the United States, and (almost inevitably) China. SALT IS, OF course, present in much of what we eat long before we – or, indeed, the guys at the microwave ready meal factory or fast food outlet – sprinkle it in. So, with salt already there in food, then us adding more during cooking, and sometimes yet more at the table, too – it’s little wonder that we can go too far. Okay, so in raw meat, fruit and veggies the salt quantities are pretty small – but they increase dramatically the more steps are taken between field and fork, and in snacks and convenience foods we find the most salt of all. (It’s in there to make it taste better and last longer on a supermarket’s shelves, of course.) So yes, while we know that certain things will inevitably be high in salt – salted fish, bacon, cheeses, pickles, salami and the like – and can, to some extent, allow for that in our overall diets, the real dangers come from those foods that don’t look especially salty, but might be anyway. It’s with things like bread, breakfast cereals,
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soups, sandwiches and even salads that we come unstuck, because nine times out of 10 we don’t fully take on board what we’re eating. And what’s wrong with too much salt? The chief thing is that it can raise blood pressure, increasing your risks of heart disease and a stroke. The World Health Organisation currently recommends cutting salt intake to no more than five grams a day, which sounds achievable until you realise that there’s not a country on earth that’s actually done it. Others say six grams – about a teaspoon full – is more doable. So are we all cruising towards an early death? Perhaps, but perhaps not. Certainly, some (albeit fairly controversial) studies have shown that it’s only really in places like China – where liberal use of soy sauce and the like pushes average intakes to around 12 grams or more – that salt usage is a properly pressing issue. Every year on a diet like that, some docs say, can take two or three months off your life expectancy. Here in the UK, as with most of the west, salt intake has fallen over the last few decades from those sorts of levels to around seven or eight grams, and blood pressure levels have dropped too. In other words, there’s more we can do – and we’d be foolish indeed to take our eyes off how much salt we consume – but perhaps history will prove that levels like this are reasonable, and reasonably safe. WHEN COOKING WITH salt, it’s easy to overdo it. With things like soups and sauces, which simmer for a long time, you’re best off adding a little to start with and tasting as you cook, keeping in mind that the salty taste will intensify as the liquid reduces. (Let it cool a little first, then try a proper mouthful, not just a dab on the tip of the tongue – only this way will you get a proper sense of how salty things actually are.) That said, putting in too much is not necessarily a total disaster. Quite often there are ways to save a dish – like diluting it with unsalted liquid, or adding a little cream, vinegar, lemon juice or brown sugar. (Chucking in a peeled, quartered spud for a quarter of an hour also works; it’ll act like a scapegoat of sorts, sucking up much of the excess salt, at which point you can whip it out and discard.) So, when in the cooking process should you salt things? It depends on what you’re making, really. If it’s meat at quite a high temperature, adding salt at the beginning is sensible, as it helps caramelise the sugars – this rule applies to stews and roast veggies, too. But
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S T A R T E R S
when you’re boiling water to make pasta, say, don’t bother chucking in any salt until everything is bubbling away nicely – it’ll take longer to come to the boil otherwise. When it comes to salt that you apply at the table – be it Saxa in a saltshaker or the most sequin-esque sea salt flakes pinched between fingers – the rules are rather different. This stuff is all too keen to become the dominant flavour, drowning everything else out – it doesn’t bind other tastes together in the way that it does in the cooking process, but instead just sits there saying, ‘Look at me’. This, of course, is delicious on crisps and chips, for example – which would go soggy if you tried to add salt during the cooking process – but, with most other things, using more than a pinch might well be a mistake. Still, that’s not to say table salt is bad. In fact, those ‘tiniest pinches’ can make all the difference to even the most unlikely of foods. Take coffee, for instance, where we put the smallest amount in with the grounds to eliminate bitterness. (Even if there’s nowhere near enough salt in there to consciously taste it, it’ll still have this effect.) Or think of a grapefruit, which somehow manages to be both sweet and bitter at the same time – and so benefits hugely from the addition of a little salt. (It may sound horribly counter-intuitive, but salt actually helps beat the bitter down, and allows the sweetness to rise up in its place.) Basically, salt can give everything a pleasingly crunchy, crystalline mouthfeel, and always makes it taste more like itself, be it a chop or an egg, a cheesecake or a mushroom. WHY DO WE – and, indeed, all animals – crave salt so much? Well, it’s simple: our bodies need it. Without it our muscles and nervous systems would eventually give up the ghost, and we’d keel over and die. We can’t produce it ourselves, so we’re inevitably going to need to source it – but what kind should we buy? Bland, often slightly bitter table salt is cheapest, and lasts a long time – it should certainly be good for a year or so in your cupboard, and perhaps more if you make sure it doesn’t get too moist and start to clump together. (Anti-caking agents are usually added to combat this, but putting a few grains of raw rice in your shaker is a clever way to give them a bit of help – the rice will slurp up any dampness a treat.) It’s made by pumping the salt water out of underground sea beds, then refining it in purification plants. Then there’s rock salt, usually the remains of long-ago evaporated inland seas, buried centuries back. This salt is mined in the traditional way, by drilling or blasting the rock face, then crushed into bits. Especially fancy is pink Himalayan rock salt from Pakistan, said to be packed with all sort of healthy minerals. And finally there’s sea salt, traditionally found when the tide retreats and rock pools dry out, the evaporated water leaving salt crystals behind – though it’s now deliberately created by evaporating seawater indoors. Either ground or as whole flakes, and subject to far less processing than other forms, the results are pure and sparkling and taste of the sea. It’s somehow more ‘salty’ than other kinds, giving a pretty finish and delicious bite to many a meal. So which is best? In truth, there’s not actually much difference between the three – they’re all around 97-99 percent sodium chloride, so any other trace elements you might get will be in negligible amounts – but the posher, artisan versions undoubtedly taste better, and that’s important. It means we need less salt for the same effect, you see. So, if we really want to cut down on our salt intake, fast food and ready meals need to go – at least as everyday staples – and the best quality, most naturally produced salt we can reasonably afford needs to take its proud place on our pantry shelves. Do that, and all the salty foods we revere – be they caramel puds or cured meats, pizzas or ramen – can probably hang around. And thank goodness, right? There is, after all, a common reason why they’re all so damn tasty…
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R E C I P E
SALT HAS A DUEL PURPOSE IN THIS MONTH’S RECIPE BY FREDDY BIRD
I WAS LISTENING to a Spanish chef talk a few weeks back as he very heavily seasoned his beef. The joint was covered in salt, but he said to everyone watching, “Don’t worry, the meat is intelligent, it only takes the salt it needs.” Then, after cooking, he simply brushed away the excess salt; the meat was, of course, perfectly seasoned. This principle also applies to whole vegetables and fish – meaning it would seem it is the salt that is the intelligent ingredient, not the meat at all... This recipe is an absolute doddle. The salt hardens forming a crust around the fish as it bakes, trapping in all the moisture. So, as long as you are careful with your timings, the fish inside will be perfectly moist. Serving it straight from the roasting pan at the table looks great, as well. The fish in the photo here was quickly devoured by hungry Lido chefs – bones picked clean. Personally, I find nothing wrong with eating like this – I often don’t make it to the table when something tastes so good, happily standing at the stove eating with my fingers. Only use coarse sea salt for this (by coarse I mean coarse granules, not flakes), and certainly don’t use fine, processed salt! And as for the fish, make sure it’s a wild bream; the farmed Mediterranean types are far inferior in flavour and have a pappy kind of texture.
SALT BAKED WILD BLACK BREAM SERVES 2 1 wild bream (approx. 800g) 2 sprigs rosemary 1kg coarse sea salt drizzle arbequina olive oil, to serve ½ lemon, to serve
TIP: This would be delicious with some sautéed bitter greens, with a little garlic, chilli and lemon.
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. 2 Put the rosemary in the cavity of the fish. Then, in a roasting tray that fits the fish snugly, pour a layer of salt. Place the fish on top and add another a mound of salt, ensuring the whole fish is covered. 3 Cook in the oven for 22-24 minutes. 4 At the table, crack through the crust with a spoon and pull it away, removing the skin at the same time. 5 Remove the little fillets carefully and serve drizzled with olive oil, with the lemon on the side. Lido, Oakfield Place, Bristol BS8 2BJ; 0117 933 9530; lidobristol.com
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Home to Bristol’s infamous 96oz steak challenge, as seen on LADbible
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www.theashvillesteakhouse.co.uk
Openings etc S T A R T E R S
GORGE ON THIS
The newly refurbished Avon Gorge Hotel by Hotel Du Vin is now open, complete with a brand new restaurant, Goram and Vincent. Peering into the open kitchen, guests might spot the coal-fired grills, smoker and clay oven, used to cook the smokehouse-style dishes conceived by Hotel Du Vin’s executive chef director, Matt Skinner. On the menu are the likes of Gloucester Old Spot ribs, baked scallops with Gruyère, and beef brisket, cooked in the smoker. Breakfasts and brunches are also on the go here, and roasts are cooked up on Sundays, too. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the redesigned space provide incredible views over the Avon Gorge, with the Clifton Suspension Bridge towering overhead. hotelduvin.com
BIRD IS THE WORD
The former County Hotel – which was taken over earlier this year by the owners of No. 15 Great Pulteney – has not only rebranded as The Bird, but has also announced an exciting pop-up venue. Winter Wonderland is incoming for the festive season, and it’s going to have a fantastical woodland theme (think twinkling fairy lights, glowing candelabra and cosy Bavarian rugs) and plenty of party potential. The aroma of mulling spices wafting over from the bar will get you in the Christmas spirit, helped along by the ales, wines and seasonal cocktails on offer. Joint party nights with live DJ performances can be booked, or you can just swing by for a tipple and some festive feels. To early for the C-word? The Bird’s inviting bar is worth checking out for food and drink any time of year. thebirdbath.co.uk
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NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
LOOK HERE, IT’S MADDIE CROMBIE, NEW HEAD CHEF AT THE GALLIMAUFRY
When did you begin cooking? I started professionally in 2011.
OH LA LA!
Comptoir and Cuisine is a new bistro and shop in Bath, conceived by the same people behind Champagne and Fromage in London. Opening soon, the French-inspired joint will be brimming with top-notch food, drinks and ingredients from across the Channel, and there’ll also be kitchenware and accessories on offer. In fact, almost everything inside the rustic bistro will be for sale – from cookware to furniture – all carefully sourced from ethically sound suppliers and artisanal makers. Food will be served all day; expect pastries and coffee for breakfast and charcuterie boards and sharing plates for lunch and dinner. The café and shop will be spread across two floors, while a Champagne and Fromage lounge bar will be located in the basement. Here, Champagne will be available by the glass, alongside beer and wine. The opening is planned for 25 October, so keep those beady eyes peeled... champagneplusfromage.co.uk
HARE TODAY
The Hare pub in Bedminster – a North Street staple for six years – has relaunched as Levert Cask House, ‘leveret’ being the name for a young hare. Still under the same ownership, it’s had a good old spruce up, with past building work being reversed to expose original features. Owner Phil Searle told us that his aim has always been to create a traditional pub for a modern and sociable audience – so you’ll find no pool tables or hot food, but can expect top-notch beers (including three local cask brews), a great collection of wines and spirits, and a welcoming atmosphere. leveretcaskhouse.com
And what inspired you to go into this industry? I just really loved cooking, as well as reading about food, talking about food... So when a very good friend asked me why I wasn’t pursuing a career in catering, I decided to give it a go. I was hooked after day one. What’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? Finding a new kitchen team at The Galli has been a challenge; I wanted creative and passionate people who loved the work and wanted to have fun. It took a few months but it all came together in the end, and now I can’t imagine going to work without this crew. Tell us about your proudest career achievement. The first time I ran a shift in a kitchen. I remember feeling nervous and scared, but mostly proud. What attracted you to The Galli? Some friends brought me in for a meal once; I loved the food so much that, when I moved to Bristol, I handed in my CV. And what’s the best thing about working here? The team. Everyone is so passionate about what they do. It’s inspiring to come into work everyday. How many people in the kitchen team? Four chefs and three kick-ass KPs. How have you approached the menu? I wanted it to be a creative process. We sit down as a team once a week and start with what ingredients are in season, then figure out what we want to learn and achieve in that week.
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What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? I’ve got one memory of eating grilled sardines sat on a beach somewhere and thinking, ‘You know, it doesn’t get better than this.’ There’s something about fresh fish cooked over fire by the ocean that just makes me perfectly happy. Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in? I love going out for brunch on a day off, it’s such a luxury. My favourites are Bakers and Co and Ronak; they’re both killing it. What makes the local foodie scene so great? Bristol has an amazing DIY culture with so many independent businesses, which means it’s always evolving and reinventing itself. What kind of meals do you cook at home? Very rustic, simple food, especially at this time of year. I love spending an afternoon in the kitchen with my partner, cooking a stew or putting together a lasagne. What ingredients are you loving working with at the moment? This time of year is absolutely fantastic; you’ve got the last of the summer fruits and vegetables and all those great wintery flavours coming through. We’re loving squashes and wild mushrooms right now. Favourite cookery book? Anything by Nigel Slater. He writes so eloquently and really conveys how much food means to people; his books are full of nostalgia, comfort, family, love. thegallimaufry.co.uk
TRY SOMETHING NEW AND EXCITING THIS CHRISTMAS
Please contact bathevents@cnty.com for all private hire and package enquiries Saw Close Bath BA1 1EY 01225 308 990 Know your limits! For more information go to: BeGambleAware.org – DrinkAware.co.uk
www.cnty.com/bath Come for the Action, Stay for the Fun!
S T A R T E R S
ONE TO WATCH FOOD BY FOSTERS
PLAY WITH FOOD After a hefty two-year redevelopment project, the 250-year-old theatre Bristol Old Vic has relaunched, and brings with it a brand new restaurant. 1766 Bar and Kitchen is open all day, serving brekkies like fresh waffles with streaky bacon and maple syrup, and fried halloumi, avo and roast tomato on chargrilled turmeric bread, while lunches come from the salad bar, a list of tapas dishes and a set menu. Evenings are a prix fixe affair, involving dishes such as cauliflower and smoked butter velouté with pesto and rarebit, smoked haddock pappardelle with dill and mustard cream, and blackberry and almond frangipane tart. Heading up the kitchen is Coco Barone, who’s worked all over Europe, but most recently in Bristol’s Glassboat and Rosemarino. Coco’s Italian background is a big influence on her cookery, and means she’s all about the ingredients. bristololdvic.org.uk
A South West business has been named as this year’s Seed Fund champion. Dorset Sea Salt Co was founded just last year by Jethro Tennant, who was keen to revive local sea salt production. His business now produces fresh, natural sea salt, hand harvested from the waters along the Jurassic Coast, and has created a range of flavours including chilli, lemon and thyme, and apple oak smoked. The Seed Fund is an annual competition founded by the Bath-based Collaborators, which aims to uncover the star food and drink businesses of the future. The most promising start-up entrants are shortlisted to receive business coaching and guidance from expert judges and industry pros, who then choose a winner to receive a year’s worth of mentoring and development work. theseedfund.co.uk
FANCY A BREW?
FOOD BY FOSTERS
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Self-confessed beer geek Brendan Woodhouse was tired with trekking all over Bristol to find his favourite beers, so he decided the only rational thing to do was open his own beer shop, of course. Brendan has amassed a whopping range of bottles and cans to fill the shelves at his new digs, which has just launched on Queens Road in Clifton. Here, you can find local brews as well as sips from across the UK, Europe and beyond. Shopping for beer is thirsty work, so in his wisdom Brendan has installed five draught pumps on the premises as well as seating (which we hope is comfy, because we may never want to leave), so guests can partake in a pint or two as they browse. brendansbrewtique.co.uk
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OH LOOK, IT’S MAGDA PIETRYKOWSKA, GENERAL MANAGER AT PASTA RIPIENA
Been working here long? I joined the Pasta Loco/Ripiena crew back in mid-January. And where did you work before? My CV is not unlike the Argos catalogue; I’ve done fine dining in New Zealand, food trucking in Texas and wine making in Canada. How long have you been in hospitality? 14 years. At first, it was just a way to make pocket money, but once I got into the industry it was hard to break out. Eventually I decided to make a career out of it, and actually graduated from Dublin Institute of Technology with a hospitality management degree. And why do you enjoy it? Hospitality is a people-oriented industry; it’s all about customers and fulfilling their needs. I enjoy the challenge of making hungry people happy, and love eating and being around good food. Oh, and wine – I do like my wine! What’s the best thing about your current job in particular? I love the fact that I get to work in both restaurants – Loco and Ripiena. It’s exciting, and is like having two jobs. And the most challenging part? It can be emotionally draining; I remember someone said that working as a waitress requires wearing a mask all day. Tell us one thing that you’re responsible for in your role that guests wouldn’t know about? I make sure everyone’s had a shot of tequila before service!
What’s popular on the menu right now? Our black truffle and porcini mezzaluna is slowly gaining the same reputation as Pasta Loco’s carbonara. And how about drinks; what’s going down well? The classic Negroni is the all-time favourite. But with the rainy season here, all I can think of is a full-bodied red with a hearty pasta dish. Why do you think Pasta Ripiena is a great place to visit? It’s the combination of tasty food, great ambience and service. And what makes great customer service? Attention to detail, a friendly manner, going that extra mile. There’s nothing better than the look on customer’s face when they realise you remember their favourite wine, or what they had for dinner four months ago. Everyone wants to feel special, and it doesn’t take much at all. Where have you visited locally where the service was excellent? Eat Your Greens – a small vegan café that recently opened in Totterdown. The best vegan Sunday roast ever – and no, I’m not even vegan. Where do you like to eat on your days off? I love Bravas; drinking great wine in a cosy setting and food being constantly delivered to your table by friendly staff is what I call a great dining experience. Everyday Thai, as well, for great Thai food, and Ceres for brunch. There are really too many great places to choose from! pastaripiena.co.uk
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EAT SMART
It’s so easy to do a good deed this season, and help those who will really feel the effects of winter – just look out for the Street Smart logo in local restaurants. Let us explain: Street Smart is an annual campaign that’s been going for 20 years, and works to raise vital cash to support the homeless and vulnerable over some of the coldest months of the year. During November and December, a voluntary £1 donation is added to food bills at participating restaurants, with the organisation then distributing the money among local homeless charities. Bristol raised £15K last year – but we know we can do better for 2018! Bomboloni, Flour and Ash, Wilsons and The Gallimaufry are among the top local gaffs taking part; if you have a restaurant and want to sign up (and why wouldn’t you?), or are a punter after a list of all the venues involved, check out the website. streetsmart.org.uk
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G’DAY!
Mid October will see a brand new café open its doors in Bath’s city centre. Good Day Café is located on Upper Borough Walls and is the creation of Stephanie Jeffery (who ran The Pudding Stop in St Albans for three years) and Ben Wilder. Here, it’s all about friendly service, happy vibes and, of course, great food. Whether it’s about getting a boost of the good stuff – cold press juices will come from The Juice Collective, and gut-pleasing ferments from Bath Culture House – or satisfying your cravings with something comforting and decadent, this place aims to be a go-to for getting all kinds of foodie fixes. Serving breakfast and lunches, the kitchen team are taking classic dishes and giving them novel twists, being sure to make the menus inclusive with lots of vegan and meat-free options. gooddaycoffee.co.uk
OPENING 24.09.18 For breakfast, lunch, dinner & serious Sunday roasts, pre-theatre dining, cocktails, craft ales, coffee & cakes! Follow our story on Twitter & Instagram @1766barkitchen Bristol Old Vic, King Street, Bristol BS1 4ED
at BRISTOL OLD VIC
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In the Larder 2
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HERE ARE SOME OF THE WAYS THE SOUTH WEST USES THE PUNCHY MINERAL… 1. Dorset Sea Salt Co Natural Salt, £3.99/125g Fresh seawater is taken from the Atlantic and filtered, then the brine heated to create these super-chunky salt crystals – and it’s all done by hand. The result is a salt that’s coarse, crunchy and packed full of flavour – as well as completely pure. We love it; crumble it in your fingers over food and it not only adds flavour, but also lovely texture. As well as the pure variety there are some flavoured versions (£5.99), including earthy celery. Find it at Harvest Natural Foods in Bath, Clifton Village Butchers and other independent outlets; dorsetseasalt.co.uk 2. Zara’s Chocolates Salted Caramel Espresso Martini Truffles, £1.25/each or £17/box of 12 This small team of chocolatiers is well known for their novel flavours and imaginative combinations, of which this little number is a perfect example. Think a dark
Madagascan chocolate cup, filled with the flavours of coffee, vodka and sweet and salty caramel, all topped with a whole golden coffee bean. Let it melt on your tongue as you think what a great tip-off this was. Find them at Zara’s Chocolates on North Street in Bristol; zaraschocolates.com 3. Ginger Beard’s Preserves Hop Salt, £2.25/90g Each batch of this salt is made with different hops – usually dried or pellets – to show off the diverse varieties. The current batch, though, is made with fresh hops grown right on this patch by the East Bristol Hop Project. How about that? To celebrate, Ginger Beard’s Preserves has given it has a special price, down from the usual £3.99. Take a whiff and notice the earthy notes – yes, it smells like beer. Find it in Brewers Droop and Elemental, and online; gingerbeardspreserves.co.uk
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4. Wild Beer Co Sleeping Limes £2.19/330ml Limes, sea salt and lager? It must be Wild Beer. Take a gulp for a refreshing, carbonated hit of citrus followed by a light saltiness and malty finish. It’ll pair a treat with curries and other spicy dishes, and has a light tartness that makes it way more accessible than a full-on sour beer. Available in tins in Independent Spirit of Bath and Corks of Cotham; wildbeerco.com 5. Cornish Sea Salt Zesty Barbecue £3/60g A great match for seafood, this is a blend of lime, chilli and sea salt (produced from fresh seawater collected from The Lizard peninsula), designed to bring punch to your prawns, a kick to your corn on the cob or some zing to your squid. Don’t pack away the barbecue for winter, ’cause this is perfect for flame grilled food. Find it online; cornishseasalt.co.uk
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Pete first started working at Larkhall Butchers when he was just 12
@withmustard_uk takes a break for chai and samosas @thalisocial
Ever since taking the business on, Pete has slowly been making changes: nowadays, it has a solid local focus and contemporary attitude. For instance, deliveries – both to customers and the restaurants he supplies (think Widcombe Deli, Thoughtful Bakery and The Grocer) – are all made by electric van. Soon, customers will be able to order online through Good Sixty too, with those deliveries being made by electric bike, courtesy of Three Bags Full. Another change that Pete has made is the way he works with suppliers; cutting out the abattoir, he now goes straight to the farmers for the meat. “You have much more input WHAT: MEAT AND GROCERIES that way,” he explains. “It gives WHERE: 1 LAMBRIDGE BUILDINGS, BATH BA1 6RS us more control – we can ask for WHEN: MON-FRI 7AM-5PM; SAT 7AM-1.30PM particular breeds, or to have them a bit fatter... Also, you know where the money has gone – at Manor Farm, for instance, you can actually see that they’ve invested in the ight on one of the four corners of a crossroads in Larkhall – where next generation of animals.” Brookleaze Buildings meets St Right now, customers are buying slowSaviours Road – is this unassuming cooking meat to go in autumnal stews – ribs of little butcher’s shop. Don’t be fooled beef, in particular, are flying out. by its old-school appearance, “Flat rib is a lesser-used cut that’s ideal for though; this is one of the most popular and slow-cooking,” Pete says. “It’s really quite cheap, forward-thinking butchers on our patch, and and you can’t find it in supermarkets. it’s got multiple awards and a solid base of “People often think that butchers are pricey, loyal punters to prove it. and yeah, free-range chicken is expensive – it’s The building has been home to a butchers what we make the smallest margin on – but since the ’70s, and before that it was actually a pick up a nice ham hock and you really do get a pub – The White Lion. Owner Pete Milton lot for your money.” started working here as a Saturday boy when Autumn brings with it game season, so he was 12 years old and, three years ago, expect lots of venison, pheasant and partridge decided to take the business on himself. – from local shoots where possible – to be Despite his history here, he never thought his popping up in the counter. And keep your eye career would be in butchery. That is, ’til he on social media to follow the annual National found himself at the helm of this shop. Sausage Week competition (have a super “It really wasn’t the plan,” he tells us when sausage recipe? Then send it in!). Looking we visited recently for a nosey. “I’ve always further ahead, some big plans for a possible been really passionate about food, sure, but shop refit are on the horizon but, shh, don’t most people who are usually become chefs tell Pete we let slip. – that’s the more romantic version!” larkhallbutchers.co.uk
HIP SHOPS
LaRKhaLL BUTCheRs @glutenfrugal makes the most of her leftover herbs by making curry paste
@olivialovesf00d brunches @brewcc Your pic could be here! Just use #CrumbsSnaps on your foodie Insta posts and we might print one of yours next issue...
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FaCTORY FaRM
AT THE END OF LAST YEAR, WE GOT WIND THAT THE TOBACCO FACTORY GROUP HAD A NEW PROJECT ON THE GO, AND HAVE BEEN KEEPING TABS ON ITS PROGRESS EVER SINCE. FINALLY, THE TIME CAME FOR JESSICA CARTER TO HAVE A PROPER NOSEY AROUND TO SEE WHAT’S (AHEM) GROWING ON... PHOTOS BY JON REID
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Jonathan collects the hens’ eggs every day at noon
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ormer bank worker Jonathan Boundy closes the gate behind us and leads me from the chickens to the beans, via a soon-tobe flower patch. As I stoop to get a good look at the borlotti beans – which will be dried out and used for soups and stews over the winter – Jonathan, wide eyed and full of energy, has already moved on to talk about the next variety, explaining how the colour of the flower determines its attractiveness to bees. He apologises for his geekiness, and will go on to excuse the length of the farm tour he’s taking me on – but he doesn’t mean it. And nor should he; there’s plenty to be excited by here. At the end of last year, Tobacco Factory Enterprises Limited (which runs both the Tobacco Factory and Grain Barge bar and restaurants, and is owned by former Bristol mayor George Ferguson), bought five acres of land in Backwell. Jonathan, who was general manager of the Tobacco Factory at the time, would be in charge of turning the fields – formerly a rather spacious home to just four cows – into flourishing farmland. “I had an allotment for 10 years, and used to take all the produce I grew into work – I just couldn’t eat it all myself,” he tells us. “Sarah [Ford, managing director of the group] would always joke about getting a piece of land for me to grow food on for the restaurants. Last year this plot came up, and it just all came together.” It’s been a huge change of direction for Jonathan, who worked for a bank before joining the Tobacco Factory team, eventually becoming
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farm manager in March. “I used to get headaches all the time when I was at the bank,” he says. “I remember once counting boxes of ibuprofen in my desk drawer – there were 14. I don’t get any headaches now. It’s a total change of lifestyle.” It was a surprisingly warm and bright Wednesday morning in September when I dropped into the farm, and as I drew in a deep breath of fresh air and noted the remarkable silence (we were only 20 minutes from the city, near Backwell, and just metres from the A370), I totally got how a job like this could have some serious benefits for your quality of life. Then Jonathan said, “I’m quite excited about winter, really, and seeing what it’s like being out here then.” At which point my romantic notion of working the land full-time disappeared in a puff of smoke, of course, and I shivered with an imaginary chill. I’d already been introduced to the other members of the team that were spending the morning on the farm – including the executive chef of the Tobacco Factory and Grain Barge, Charles Mooyaart – as well as to the chickens, who mosied around their large enclosure merrily while Jonathan pointed individuals out, describing their personalities. They’re kept for their eggs, which are collected each day at noon. “Five out of ten of them have double yolks,” Charles tells us. “You just don’t get that from ones you buy. We use them for breakfasts, and customers love them.” Jonathan had been a little apprehensive about keeping animals at first – his experience being solely in growing – but is now planning
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S T A R T E R S
to add more livestock next year, with sheep coming in the spring. Speaking of those woolly-coated folk, they’ve been breaking in from the next field to tuck into the aforementioned beans, while deer have also invited themselves in for a nosey on several occasions, I’m told...
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s we’re led from plot to plot, we walk past two kinds of beetroot, several types of squash, four different kinds of courgette (“I know four seems excessive,” says Jonathan), and then up to the bees. There are two hives here, and Tim Myers – whose own bees live on top of the Tobacco Factory and are responsible for making Southville Honey – has been generous with advice. Eventually, there will be more hives and more bees to produce Five Acre Farm’s very own honey. In the large polytunnels (of which there are three, soon to be joined by three more) I’m presented with both white and black aubergines, wonderfully knobbly and robust-looking Japanese cucumbers, and tomatoes in orange, red and black. There are peppers too – of all sizes and colours – and six different types of chilli, including an interesting wrinkly variety from Hungary. There are lots of plants here from abroad, allowing the chefs access to a whole spectrum of produce from around the world that they’d otherwise not be able to get hold of. “Charles, he’s from the Netherlands, knows so much about this produce,” Jonathan says. “Without him, it might not have worked. He just has so much knowledge.”
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S T A R T E R S Exec chef Charles loves cooking with the farm's produce; he prepares it simply, so as to make the most of its great quality
The group’s solid environmental and sustainability principles have had a big influence on this new project – something that is clear in everything from the comfrey that’s grown here, to eventually be used as fertiliser, to the glee of the Gloucester Old Spots, who are fed on the spent grain from sister business the Bristol Beer Factory. The chipper pigs bound over to us excitedly, huge ears flopping up and down with the motion, when we climb over the gate into their large pen – although I admit it’s more to do with the bucket of feed Jonathan is carrying than my mere presence. There are two girls and two boys here, and they’re all being reared for their meat; the males will reach maturity in November and females in January. Charles explains how he intends to use as much of each pig as possible – although both he and Jonathan mention how tough sending them off to the abattoir will be. Having surprise deliveries of ingredients such as offal, and the fruits of Jonathan’s growing experiments – i.e. less-familiar produce, which the kitchen teams wouldn’t order from suppliers on the regular – is something that Charles and the group’s other chefs are enjoying getting to grips with. “How it works now is that we’re not ordering anything from Jonathan,” Charles says. “He just comes in and gives us what’s been harvested. Sometimes, it’s a bit like, ‘Oh no, what are we going to do with that?’, but really it’s great, and we always make good use of it. And it gets us really in sync with seasons. The other week he came in with a massive box of cucumbers. We decided to pickle them to use in the burgers. “It really ignites the creative spark of the chefs, and it brings the whole team together – front of house as well. Everyone gathers around to see what’s come in.
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“Having this land, and being supplied food in this way, means we get to work with ingredients that are largely forgotten about. [Charles holds up a gorgeous white aubergine.] This, we just wouldn’t have ordered, or wouldn’t have been able to get hold of. It gives us access, as well, to things we couldn’t otherwise afford.” From one day to the next, then, none of the chefs know what surprises they’re going to be working with. And, as it’s all properly homegrown, this stuff is unlike what you’d get from a supplier or in the supermarket – in terms of looks and taste: “I’ve had chefs that didn’t believe one of Jonathan’s cucumbers was even a cucumber! We’re just too used to them straight and green and tasting the same.” The idea is to be as organic as possible here; realistically, the farm won’t be certified due to the paperwork and expense involved, but organic principles are very much in place on Five Acre Farm. And that’s both to make sure the produce is of the best possible quality – in terms of taste and nutrition – and to ensure that the farming processes are being kind to ol’ Mother Earth, as well as all the wildlife that calls this patch of land home. It’s still early days here, but there are already plans to build an on-site classroom barn and host open days, and the Tobacco Factory Sunday Market already has a stall selling produce from the farm, along with that from other local growers. Despite how new the project is, these five little acres have seen some pretty big changes, and if the team’s enthusiasm levels and sense of ambition are anything to go by, it ain’t seen nothing yet.
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Six Pack BREAK (HABITS) FAST!
SURE, WE LOVE AVO ON TOAST TOO, AND YES, OF COURSE WE’RE FANS OF A FRY UP, BUT THERE’S WAY MORE TO THE LOCAL BRUNCH SCENE THAN THE CLASSICS. HERE, THEN, ARE SIX ALTERNATIVE BREAKFASTS TO TRY THIS MONTH – YOU’LL FIND NOTHING SMASHED ON TOAST AMONG THEM
99 QUEENS
You could do a lot worse than swinging by this Clifton café and coffee shop on the hunt for breakfast. Served all day, brunches come in the form of everything from bagels to pancakes and fry ups, but it’s the fritters that have our attention here. They’re made of sweet potato, corn and chilli, and come served with avocado, grilled halloumi and poached eggs. That colourful display will surely give you a big nutrient boost, while the chilli kick should do a good job of waking up squinty-eyed morning-haters. Owner Richard tells us this dish is a bestseller, and we can believe it. facebook.com/99queens
BUTTERMILK AND MAPLE
You’ll find this American-style all-day bar and bistro on Bristol’s Welsh Back, beneath the Mercure hotel. It’s cool, chilled out, and ideal for long, lazy brunches, eaten while looking out across the cobbles and onto the river. Lighter dishes include chia fruit bowls with seeds and berries, while more hefty options come in the form of lobster Benedict. We, however, are keen on the traditional-style Mexican huevos rancheros (or ‘rancher’s eggs’), which sits comfortably in the middle of the spectrum, made from grilled corn tortillas, fresh tomato salsa and fried eggs. buttermilkandmaple.com
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THE OX CLIFTON
Known for its first-rate beef, this popular steak joint on Whiteladies Road isn’t all about the dinners – did you know it serves brunch on Saturdays until 2.30pm? Of course, there’s one particular dish that really makes sense when you wander in here looking for your first feed of the day: steak and eggs. The top-notch 6oz D-cut rump comes with silky peppercorn sauce, and shares a plate with fried eggs and hash browns. A solid breakfast cooked by chefs who really know their beef. Wash it down with a Bloody Mary and you’ve got a pretty strong start to the day, we reckon. theoxclifton.com
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SPICER AND COLE
There are three branches of this wellestablished café in Bristol – Queen Square, Gloucester Road and Clifton Village – and each is about good coffee from the best local roasters and fresh, seasonal food cooked up on-site by the teams. Breakfasts last for an extra hour on weekends, going on until 3pm – great for fans of a proper lie in. However much you like your shut-eye, though, the sweet potato and roast vegetable hash with chorizo, harissa and poached eggs is worth dragging yourself out of bed for. Want it meat-free? Swap the chorizo for halloumi, or go vegan with tofu and roasted tomatoes. spicerandcole.co.uk
WILD CAFÉ
Hidden away down one of the gorgeous cobbled side streets in the centre of Bath, this friendly little caff serves food from 8am. The sizable breakfast menu is available all day, and the kitchen team are clearly not afraid to go off-piste when it comes to its dishes. One of the most popular, we’re told, is the faggot Benedict. Imagine the combination of that rich offal (the faggots a come from local butchers Bartlett and Sons) with the fresh, gooey-centred poached eggs and silky homemade hollandaise, which is homemade with free-range eggs, English butter and a zing of lemon. wildcafe.co.uk
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CAFÉ RONAK
This fun, quirky café fits right in among the eclectic range of businesses on Gloucester Road, and has a solid following. Brekkie is served 8am-4pm on the weekend, meaning that whether you’re a fresh-faced lark who’s wide awake at sunrise, or a laid back owl who was up until the early hours the night before, you’re not going to miss out on a decent meal to ease yourself into the day. Speaking of decent meals, the Persian breakfast is a great shout: fresh and colourful, it’s packed with leafy herbs, Severn project leaves, walnuts, locally made feta, juicy tomatoes and zatar-topped flatbread. facebook.com/caferonak
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...together we can find your dream job.
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Senior Sous Chef
£32,000 – Award Winning Hotel
Cardiff
General Manager
£30,000 – Classic City Pub
Bristol
Head Chef
£32,000 – Award Winning Gastro Pub
Stroud
General Manager
Circa £40,000 – Fresh Food Gastro Pub & Luxury Inn
Bath Area
Sous Chef
£31,000 – Classic French Brasserie
Bristol
Restaurant Supervisor
£21,000 – Popular City Hotel
Cheltenham
Head Chef
£30,000 – £35,000 – High End Gastro Pub
Bath
Sous Chef
£25,000 – Beautiful Gastro Pub
Northleach
Bar Associate
£16,500 – Breathtaking Hotel
Brecon
Head Chef
£28,000 – Village Country Pub
Stratford Upon Avon
Hospitality Manager
£32,000 – World Famous Blue Chip Corporation
Central London
Sales & Marketing Manager
£34,000 – Well Known Brand
Manchester
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£25,000 – Multi-Outlet Care Home
Winchester
Head Chef
£35,000 – Restaurant & Visitor Centre
Stoke-on-Trent
Bar Supervisor
£20,000 – Luxurious Golf Club
Brockenhurst
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€45,000 – International Restaurant Group
Paris
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CHf 20 per hour – Mountainside Restaurant
Swiss Alps
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Temporary chefs, waiting & bar staff permanently required! www.cateringinternational.co.uk
Email: info@catserv.co.uk - Bath 01225 480240 - Bristol 0117 929 4777 BATH | BRIGHTON | BRISTOL | CARDIFF | CHELTENHAM | COVENTRY | LONDON | OXFORD | SOUTHAMPTON | SWINDON
FIND OUT WHAT WE’VE BEEN ADDING TO OUR RECIPE BOOK COLLECTION THIS MONTH OTTOLENGHI SIMPLE Yotam Ottolenghi (Edbury Press, £25) Let’s address the glaring issue here: Ottolenghi is hardly known for straightforward dishes made from traditional store cupboard ingredients. But now is the time for him to set the record straight: great meals don’t always require a dollop of stress and a drizzle of confusion. In the informative intro, Yotam notes that, when it comes to cooking, ‘simple’ means different things, depending on the kind of cook you are and the occasion that you’re cooking for: perhaps you want a recipe with few ingredients, one that will be ready in a half hour, or something that can be made ahead. All these and more types of ‘simple’ are listed next to relevant recipes to help the reader scan through with ease. Some dishes might be simple in one or two ways (think ricotta and oregano meatballs, and butternut squash with sweet corn salsa, feta and pumpkin seeds), while some display all six badges (like the pappardelle with rose harissa, black olives and capers, and Iranian herb fritters, say). One flick through this collection of approachable brunches, mains, sides and puddings will have you raring to don that apron. J ESSI CA CA RTER COPENHAGEN FOOD Trine Hahnemann (Quadrille, £25) When it comes to lifestyle trends, Scandinavia has become a huge source of inspiration over the last handful of years, especially; think pared-back simplicity, solid quality, high functionality, and nature referencing. Food is no exception, and the cuisine of this area of Europe is ever-more influential across the world. But that’s only one of the reasons why this book is so appealing. Trine Hahnemann, Danish cook, writer and teacher, has lived in Copenhagen for over 40 years, and here uses food to tell her own personal account of the city that she’s watched change so dramatically in that time. Chapters are split up into districts, with recipes inspired by Trine’s memories (like chocolate marzipan bars), the seasons (lamb in dill sauce with new potatoes), traditions (saffron buns and Danish hotdogs) and favourite food and drink hangouts (honey bombs and waffles with jam). Recipes are, on the whole, really achievable for home cooks, and feelings of warmth and comfort practically radiate from the pages. J E SSI CA CA RT ER
WORLD ON A PLATE Jack Stein (Absolute Press, £26) Son of seafood hero Rick Stein, Jack is now chef director of the Stein Restaurant Group, but learnt his trade travelling the world. His first food memory is of eating oysters age three – how many of us can say that? – and his dishes tend to celebrate local ingredients. Far Eastern touches are added to British classics, and exotic fare is reproduced using produce from within a few miles of Padstow: a pumpkin dish that adds North African dukkah, say, or Hong King stir fry using
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British brown crab. Occasionally he’ll simply repurpose a dish he’s enjoyed elsewhere, such as the brill tail with spring vegetables – inspired by his time at Michel Bras’ three-Michelinstarred restaurant in France – to which he’s added sweet white miso for extra body. Fish features heavily in the hundred-plus recipes here, as you might expect, but doesn’t totally dominate: we’re intrigued by the pigeon breast with vodka-macerated berries, for instance. M AT T B IEL BY JUST A FRENCH GUY COOKING Alexis Gabriel Ainouz (Quadrille, £15) Cheery, big-haired, Paris-based You Tube star (and pal of Jamie Oliver) Alexis Gabriel Ainouz is all about decent, affordable grub anyone can prepare. Yet, despite the many useful pages on the ultimate scrambled eggs, easy ramen bowls and the Parisian take on pizza, this is more than just a run through of the basics. For one thing, it’s unashamedly French, so you get recipes for a ‘terrifyingly terrific steak tartare’ or ‘fake croissants and pains au chocolat’, and for another, he doesn’t mind going ambitious occasionally. (His sourdough bread recipe might well be the ‘easiest one out there’, but could still intimidate.) Self-taught and unpretentious, he mixes handy humorous hacks – like ‘six magical microwave winners’ or ‘12 dried spices that will make you a chef’ – in with the recipes, and if his relentlessly upbeat persona is occasionally a little much, well, it never harmed his mentor… MATT B IEL BY DESTINATION FLAVOUR Adam Liaw (Hardie Grant, £27.50) MasterChef Australia winner Adam Liaw enjoys an enviable life as host of Oz TV show Destination Flavour, each series taking him to a different corner of the world to meet cooks and try his hand at their dishes. This handsome spin-off book adds a greater depth of flavour to the show by squeezing in extra recipes and profiling interesting individuals (think a Japanese miso mogul and Sami reindeer herders from the top of Norway) he met along the way. Part travelogue, part cookbook, it’s heaving with delicious-looking dishes, and if the New Zealand hunter’s pie (which contains everything from a whole wild hare to a pig’s trotter) looks a little frightening, things like Swedish meatballs in cream sauce, and Aussie salt-crust pork belly, do not. Handsome, fascinating (did you know the first New Zealand trout were brought live into the country from Scotland, packed in wet moss?) and surprisingly accessible, this is an inspiring, intriguing book. MATT B IEL BY
IRANIAN HERB FRITTERS THESE FRITTERS are a bit of a fridge raid, using up whatever herbs you have around. As long as you keep the total net weight the same and use a mixture of herbs, this will still work wonderfully. The batter will keep, uncooked, for 1 day in the fridge. MAKES 8
40g dill, finely chopped 40g basil leaves, finely chopped 40g coriander leaves, finely chopped 1 ½ tsp ground cumin 50g fresh breadcrumbs 3 tbsp barberries (alternatively, use currants soaked in lemon juice) 25g walnut halves, lightly toasted and roughly chopped 8 large eggs, beaten 60ml sunflower oil, for frying 1 Place all the ingredients, apart from the oil, in a large bowl with ½ tsp of salt. Mix well to combine and set aside. 2 Put 2 tbsp of oil into a large non-stick pan and place on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add ladles of batter to the pan. 3 Do 4 fritters at a time, if you can – you want each of them to be about 12cm wide – otherwise just do 2 or 3 at a time. Fry for 1-2 minutes on each side, until crisp and golden-brown. Transfer to a kitchen paper-lined plate and set aside while you continue with the remaining batter and oil. 4 Serve either warm or at room temperature.
Recipe from Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press, £25); photography by Jonathan Lovekin
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BATH’S BEST BUTCHER Bath Good Food Awards: Best Butcher Winner 2013-Present Crumbs Awards: Best Retailer Winner 2017 & Finalist 2018 Bath Life Awards: Environmental Finalist 2018
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arkhall Butchers combines passionate, traditional butchery with a modern take on the profession. A collective of ex-farmers, award-winning chefs and talented butchers, we strive to create an atmosphere that is welcoming to customers, especially those unused to the more involved experience of shopping with independent retailers. With both a bustling shop trade and flourishing wholesale business, we have created a reputation for supplying the finest quality produce to local restaurants, cafés and caterers alike. With a spacious shop in the heart of Larkhall we are able to facilitate everything from one location. This means that what you see is what you get, with no hidden catering units and staff you can actually talk to and are happy help with any queries you might have.
farms in the Bath area, we are able to ensure that the meat is being sourced both humanely and ethically, as well as being of the finest quality. Working in one of the most wasteful industries in the world, it is important for us acknowledge this fact and do everything we can to limit our impact. With this in mind, all of our delivery vehicles are now completely electric. Whilst this can limit our range, we feel it’s a small price to pay for reducing our carbon footprint. For wholesale and catering enquiries please contact Peter on 01225 313987 or send an email to info@larkhallbutchers.co.uk CHRISTMAS ORDERS NOW BEING TAKEN
The provenance of our food is as important to us as its quality, and we will always strive to champion the best of local produce. Using close ties with
1 Lambridge Buildings, Bath BA1 6RS
01225 313 987
larkhallbutchers.co.uk
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Larkhall Butchers just continues to live up to its name of being the best butcher in Bath for consecutive years. The produce is always of the highest quality, and the shop just gets better every year!
info@larkhallbutchers.co.uk
Ping Coombes, MasterChef 2014 winner
( advertising feature )
See you at Eight… Tucked away on North Parade Passage, Eight could be Bath’s most intimate and enticing new restaurant.
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erving up an ever-changing menu of eight plates, this a place where the little things matter. “In many ways, the building helped to shape the restaurant,” explains head chef, Fred Lavault. “We’re based in one of Bath’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 14th century. So, because the space is small, intimate and eclectic, the restaurant is too.” A glance at the menu says it all. Expect dishes like slow-cooked short rib of beef, confit pork cheeks and smoked quinoa with Mediterranean vegetables. The quinoa can be smoked to your choosing and is served with a plume of smoke and a dash of theatrics. Like the seasons, the menu is perpetually in motion, drawing on the best ingredients available from field, forest and coast. “We wanted dining to be an exciting, special experience again”, says Fred. “Because we make everything ourselves, we know that we’re only serving the highest quality food. The only thing we couldn’t manage was to bake our own bread – mainly because we don’t have room for the equipment. “Most of all, we wanted to give people the opportunity to sample flavours and combinations they’ve never had
before. Because the plates are a little smaller than perhaps a standard portion, it means you can try more. For most people, it’s best to order two or three dishes, plus a dessert.” Each dish has been thoughtfully paired with an accompanying wine. So, if the mood takes you, you could enjoy a wine flight alongside your meal. Alternatively, make your choice from the extensive wine list featuring 68 bottles from the New and Old World. For the it-would-be-rude-not-to aperitif or nightcap, visit the softly lit bar, hidden away in the basement. As you descend to the lower ground floor restaurant and bar, you’ll spot clues to the restaurant’s history. A strangely disembodied fireplace hangs in midair, hovering where the floorboards once were. And, in the bar itself, are the original steps from the abbey refectory, a relic from the 14th century. You could happily while away a few hours exploring the cocktail menu (featuring eight carefully crafted creations, naturally) or sampling an artisan gin or whisky. And, if you really feel like settling in, you needn’t go far; the restaurant’s eight rooms are just upstairs, so you really can make yourself at home.
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3 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX; 01225 724111; info@eightinbath.co.uk; eightinbath.co.uk
CHEF! WHAT TO MAKE AND HOW TO MAKE IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES HIGHLIGHTS
SOUP LOVE
A CLASSY AND COMFORTING BOWL OF GOODNESS PAGE 48
RAISE A TOAST
TO THIS DECADENT, SEASONAL BREAKFAST PAGE 53
SHALLOT BOX
INDONESIAN NASI GORENG, WITH NEW-SEASON ALLIUMS PAGE 57
PLUS!
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THE WINE GOES SPANISH
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With a colour that mimics that of the falling leaves, nothing says autumn like a squash, right?
Lucknam Park’s executive chef Hywel Jones has held a Michelin star at the hotel’s flagship restaurant for 13 years, and also oversees the more relaxed Brasserie. He’s been here since 2004, having cut his teeth in several high-end restaurants. Although he’s made a career in fine dining, this is a chef who still has a real taste for proper comfort food, and this dish is a particularly great example of how you can marry the two. “It’s a hearty and comforting but luxurious soup, ideal for the cold nights fast approaching, and a favourite with our guests here at Lucknam Park,” says Hywel. The recipe requires mushrooms, which are come into their own at this time of year; Hywel suggests using golden chanterelles, if you can find them, or any wild mushrooms that are available. Look out for them in greengrocers and delis – they’re at their best, and in plentiful supply, right about now.
SPICED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP WITH QUAIL SCOTCH EGG SERVES 4 For the soup: 25g unsalted butter 10g cumin seeds 1 medium white onion, peeled and finely diced 500g butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and finely diced 500ml chicken stock (or water) 200ml double cream For the Scotch egg: 4 quail eggs 50g flour 1 egg, beaten 50g panko breadcrumbs 200g sausage meat few sprigs lemon thyme, leaves picked vegetable oil, for deep frying To serve: 80g autumnal mushrooms rapeseed oil, for frying handful pumpkin seeds, toasted handful lemon thyme leaves 1 Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan and add the cumin seeds. Cook gently for 2 minutes until you begin to smell the cumin. Add the diced onion and then cook for a further 2 minutes until its softened and slightly caramelised. 2 Add the diced butternut and again cook for another 2 minutes. Add the stock or water and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for approximately 10-15 minutes until the squash is soft and tender. Then add the cream, bring back to a simmer, and remove from the heat. 3 Blend the mixture in a food processor until a smooth, velvety consistency is achieved. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
SOupEd up
HYWEL JONES PIMPS UP A COMFORTING SOUP TO MAKE SURE IT HITS THE SPOT WITH STYLE...
4 For the Scotch eggs, bring a pan of water to the boil and prepare a bowl of iced water. Drop the eggs into the pan and simmer them for exactly 2 ½ minutes, then put them straight into the iced water to stop the cooking process. Once cold, carefully peel the shell from the eggs and set aside. 5 Put the flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs each in separate bowls. 6 Mix the sausage meat with the thyme leaves, then roll it out between 2 sheets of lightly oiled greaseproof paper to a thickness of 3-5mm. Cut the meat into 4 and place an egg in the centre of each piece. Gently fold the sausage meat around the egg until totally covered. 7 Roll the Scotch eggs first in the flour, then the beaten egg and finally the breadcrumbs to coat them evenly all over. 8 When almost ready to serve, heat the vegetable oil to 190C, and deep fry the eggs for 2-3 minutes, until golden and crisp, then drain on kitchen towel. 9 To serve, pan fry the mushrooms in a little rapeseed oil until tender and gently reheat the soup if needed. 10 Pour the soup into serving bowls and gently slice the Scotch eggs in half before placing on top, cut side up. Scatter over the mushrooms, seeds and lemon thyme leaves, and serve.
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Lucknam Park, Colerne, Chippenham SN14 8AZ; 01225 742777; lucknampark.co.uk
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Executive chef of Castle Bow in Taunton, Liam makes great use of West Country produce, even growing a lot of his ingredients in the restaurant’s garden. This time of year is one of the best for produce, he reckons. “I love working with game, it’s a definite favourite – really hearty, comforting food,” he says. “If you have friends round for a dinner party it’s a winner – it’s dead easy to cook, and a bit of a show-stopper. “The most time-consuming part of this recipe is the confit leg bon-bons – but it’s well worth the effort.” If you have any leftover partridge, Liam tells us it’s great in a sarnie with some wholegrain mustard and mayo. And excess celeriac remoulade will keep in the fridge for a couple of days; try serving it as a light snack with toasted bread and rocket.
ROAST PARTRIDGE WITH CELERIAC, APPLE AND CRISP LEG BON-BON SERVES 4 4 garlic cloves handful thyme leaves 4 partridge crowns, legs separate 100g duck fat 2 shallots, finely chopped handful green leafy herbs, finely chopped (to taste) 100g plain flour 1 egg, beaten 200g breadcrumbs 2 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 30 capers, finely chopped 1 large gherkin, finely chopped 3 sprigs parsley, leaves picked and chopped ½ lemon, juice only 2 celeriac heads 6 apples 100g cream pinch five spice dash cider (optional) vegetable oil, for deep frying 1 Preheat the oven to 90C/110F/gas mark ¼. 2 Combine the garlic and thyme with enough salt and pepper that the mixture covers the partridge legs. Coat the legs heavily and leave for 1 hour, then rinse it off and place the legs in the duck fat in a roasting tray. 3 Cook in the oven for 3-4 hours (or, alternatively, cook in a pan on a low heat on the hob until the meat falls from the bone). Once cooked through, allow the meat to cool in the fat, then pick the meat from the bone, making sure that it’s free from all bone and shot. 4 Add the shallot and herbs to the meat and weigh out into 40g portions. Shape into balls and refrigerate. Once firmed up, roll the balls in the flour, then the egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Set aside for frying later. 5 For the celeriac remoulade, thoroughly mix the mayonnaise, mustard, capers, gherkin, parsley and
GOOD GAME
LIAM FINNEGAN HAS WASTED NO TIME IN GETTING IN ON THE GAME ACTION THIS SEASON, AND HAS SHARED THIS IMPRESSIVE PARTRIDGE RECIPE SO WE CAN TOO
lemon juice together in a large bowl, with a generous sprinkling of salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Peel and quarter the celeriac, then, working quickly, finely slice or grate it and stir into the sauce until evenly coated. (Leftover trimmings of celeriac can be turned into a soup.) 6 For the apple purée, core the apples, leaving the skin on. Place in a pan with the cream and a pinch of five spice and cook for 30-40 minutes on a low-medium heat. When cooked, pass through a fine sieve or chinois and season. Blend in a food processor, adding a glug of cider if the purée is too thick. 7 When ready to serve, heat the oil in a heavy-based pan to 180C and deep fry the bon-bons for about 6-7 minutes, until they’re golden and crisp and float to the top. (Alternatively, use a deep fryer.) 8 To cook the partridge, preheat the oven to 170C/325F/gas mark 3. Heat a pan on the hob and colour the meat on all sides. When it’s golden brown, place in the oven for 6 minutes, then allow to rest for 4 minutes. 9 To serve, slice the partridge crown and add to the plate. Spoon on the remoulade, add the ball of leg meat and dot the apple purée around the plate.
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Castle Bow, Taunton TA1 1NF; 01823 328328; castlebow.com
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SALLY CINNAMON
HEARD THE WORD ABOUT THE NEW CHEF IN TOWN? BRETT ST CLAIR IS NOW COOKING UP BANGIN’ BRUNCHES LIKE THIS...
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C H E F !
Bakers and Co is a laid-back daytime hangout, serving food inspired by the vibrant culinary scene of San Francisco. Since opening in 2014 on Bristol’s Gloucester Road, it’s become known for knocking up some of the best breakfasts and brunches in the city. Brett St Clair recently joined the team as head chef. He’s had an impressive career in some big-deal kitchens – think Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Michel Roux Jr’s La Gavroche – and for seven years ran the pastry section and development kitchen at The Bertinet Bakery. Now at Bakers and Co, Brett has put together a fresh new menu, which combines some of the café’s classics with a number of exciting new dishes, just like this one.
CINNAMON AND ORANGE MORNING TOAST WITH MAPLE STEWED PLUMS, BACON, ALMONDS AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE SERVES 2 25ml vegetable oil 25g butter 6-8 rashers streaky bacon 2 thick slices white sourdough, stale 60g crème fraîche 25g flaked almonds, toasted For the stewed plums: 4 plums, firm and ripe 75g maple syrup ½ orange, zest only 1 cinnamon stick For the cinnamon sugar: 230g unrefined caster sugar 30g ground cinnamon For the morning toast mix: 4 free range eggs 50g milk ½ orange, zest only
1 The night before, make the stewed plums (like all things stewed, it’s better made in advance to give the flavours a chance to develop). Half the plums, remove the stone and, depending on the size, quarter them. Add to a small saucepan with the maple syrup, orange zest and cinnamon stick, and cook on a gentle heat for 15-20 minutes, turning the plums frequently and carefully. When ready, they should hold their shape but be cooked through, not giving any resistance when you insert the tip of a knife into them. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. 2 In the morning, grill the bacon until crispy but not hard, then drain on kitchen paper and keep warm in a low oven. 3 Mix the sugar and cinnamon in a wide bowl or tray. Separately, whisk the eggs until smooth, then add the milk and orange zest and incorporate. Pour this into a similar sized bowl or tray. 4 Warm a non-stick or cast-iron pan over a medium heat and add the oil and butter. Cut the slices of sourdough in half and add to the morning toast mix – make sure both sides get coated while being careful not to break them. Gently lift out each slice, allow the excess mixture to drip off and carefully add to the pan. Cook until golden, flipping over half way through – it should take about 2 minutes per side. 5 Once cooked, lift out of the pan and straight away put into the cinnamon sugar and coat both sides. 6 Divide the slices between 2 plates, garnish with the bacon, almonds and a dollop of crème fraîche. Top with the plums and drizzle over their cooking syrup.
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Bakers and Co, 193 Gloucester Road, Bristol BS7 8BG; bakersbristol.co.uk
The Hop Pole, Bath pub, garden & kitchen
OPENING HOURS Drinking
Monday to Thursday: Noon - 11pm Friday to Saturday: Noon - 12pm Sunday: Noon - 10pm Food
Monday to Saturday: Noon - 2.30pm / 6pm - 9pm Sunday: Noon - 4pm
fa 7 Albion buildings, Upper Bristol Road, Bath, BA1 3AR 01225 446 327 www.thehoppolebath.co.uk info@thehoppolebath.co.uk
C H E F !
we ShALLOT Be MOVed A COMFORTING INDONESIANÂ DISH GETS THE GENEVIEVE TAYLOR TREATMENT...
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ROB WICKS
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J E N I K N OT T
British shallots are in plentiful supply in October; harvested in late summer, they’re then dried out for four weeks or so, meaning this year’s crop is hitting the shelves pretty much as we (figuratively) speak. Bristolbased food writer, stylist and cook Genevieve has come up with a few recipes to help us celebrate the season and make the most of the allium – and this is one of our favourites. It’s got the comfort factor of a takeaway, but with some solid investment in the nutritional stakes, too – not something you usually get from your local take out. It’s a great storecupboard recipe, as well – relying on lots of staples that you’ll probably already have in, and will work with whatever chilli sauce is lurking among your other condiments in the cupboard. So whether you’re a devoted sriracha fan, love a sweet chilli scenario or are all about a proper Indonesian Sambal Oelek sauce, go crazy.
SHALLOT AND VEGETABLE NASI GORENG SERVES 2 6 tbsp vegetable oil 9 shallots, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, sliced 2 carrots, cut into matchsticks 3cm fresh ginger, grated 250g spring greens, finely shredded 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp tomato ketchup
½ lime, juice only 1-2 tsp chilli sauce, plus extra to serve 250g basmati rice, cooked 2 eggs 50g peanuts, roughly chopped 1 Heat the oil in a wok over a medium-high heat and add ⅔ of the shallots. Fry for a good 15 minutes, stirring frequently, until they are deep golden brown, turning the heat down if they start to catch at the edges. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and leave to drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper. They will crisp up as they cool. 2 Drain all but 1 tbsp of oil from the wok, reserving it in a small bowl for frying the eggs later. 3 Set the wok back over the heat and add the garlic, stir frying for a minute until lightly golden. Add the remaining shallots, carrots and ginger and fry for a further 3 minutes, until the carrots are just starting to soften. Add the spring greens and keep frying for another 3 minutes. 4 Stir through the soy sauce, ketchup, lime juice and chilli sauce, combining thoroughly. 5 Tip in the rice, season to taste with salt and pepper and stir fry for 3 minutes, until everything is piping hot. 6 Turn off the heat and leave to rest for a few minutes whilst you fry the eggs to your liking, using the reserved vegetable oil. 7 To serve, spoon the nasi goreng into bowls. Top each with a fried egg, and scatter over the peanuts and shallots. Serve immediately with extra chilli sauce.
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ukshallot.com
Just over the border in Somerset‌
The Castle Hotel, Castle Green, Taunton, TA1 1NF 01823 272671 www.the-castle-hotel.com
M AT T A U S T I N
C H E F !
CIdeRman
PHIL JAMES PUTS AT-ITS-BEST CELERIAC TO WORK WITH MUSSELS, TO CREATE A DISH THAT COMBINES COMFORTING EARTHINESS WITH FRESH FLAVOURS OF THE SEA...
MUSSELS WITH CELERIAC, SEAWEED AND CIDER
Phil is head chef at River Cottage Kitchen in Bristol – a restaurant that’s always put seasonality and sustainability first. “Rope-grown mussels are the most sustainable form of seafood going; we all need to eat more of these delicious, salty morsels,” he says. “Everything about them reminds me of walking on the beach, but combining them with earthy celeriac and the light orchard flavour of cider is just perfect.” Served with a hunk of soft sourdough, this recipe is hearty and flavourful – great for autumn.
SERVES 2 40g butter 200g celeriac, peeled and finely diced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1kg mussels (rope grown, not dredged) 1 tsp flaked English seaweed 200ml organic scrumpy cider sourdough bread, to serve
River Cottage Kitchen, Whiteladies Road, Bristol BS8 2QY; 0117 973 2458; rivercottage.net
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1 Put the butter in a large saucepan that has a wellfitting lid and plenty of room for the mussels to fit and expand. Heat until foaming and add the celeriac and garlic. Cook gently until they gain a little colour. 2 Add the mussels, seaweed and cider and cover with a lid. Cook on a high heat for 3 minutes (shaking the pan every minute) or until the mussels have opened. 3 Discard any unopened mussels and serve with proper sourdough to mop up that cider sauce.
THE WINE GUY
SPAIN REACTION
HEARD ABOUT PATA NEGRA’S NEW OPEN KITCHEN AND JAZZED UP MENU? ANDY CLARKE SURE HAS; HE WASTED NO TIME IN SWINGING BY FOR A NOSEY (YES, AND A FEED)
W
hen I moved to London more than 20 years ago, my ambition to eat and drink my way through the city saw me come across some great Spanish tapas for the first time. Since then, small plates served with good wine has become one of my favourite kinds of meals when I’m eating out. When I relocated back to Bristol, I happened to meet the team behind local Spanish joint Pata Negra at the launch party of their new Ox restaurant on Whiteladies Road. Nathan, Jay and Kevin are true foodie entrepreneurs who are also responsible for Bambalan
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and those two well-known prohibition bars, Hyde and Co and Milk Thistle. Becoming a fan of their work, I made my way around their venues – which led me to come across Pata Negra, where I found a warm atmosphere, great food and top wines. So, when I heard that the team had just installed a new open kitchen, it was the perfect excuse to go back. The kitchen is now the first thing you see as you enter and, fronted with a stool-lined bar for diners, integrates the cooking into the dining experience wonderfully. Executive chef Todd Francis is a talented man; not only is he in charge of the gastronomic exploits of the entire group’s collection
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M AC IHNESF !
of restaurants, but he also put up with Crumbs’ own Jessica Carter and I creating havoc in the kitchen Colosia Fino Sherry is at the Too Many Critics event at £14.75 from Grape and Bambalan recently. [No mean feat – Grind; grapeandgrind.co.uk ed]. Under his watchful eye at Pata Negra is head chef Danny Clarke Chateau Ksara Sunset Rosé (previously sous chef at The Ox on 2016 is £12.99 and Sabar Keknyelu 2016 £14.40, both Corn Street), who is really getting available from to flex his culinary muscles with novelwines.co.uk the new set-up. The food coming out of Danny’s new kitchen is excellent. It’s uncomplicated – which you’d expect at a tapas restaurant – but shows well thought through combinations of flavour and texture. Given the fuss-free approach, it might sound easy to pull off this style of simple cookery – but don’t be fooled. The crispy pork belly with romesco sauce is divine, and as for those oozy croquetas, well, they’re arguably the best in Bristol. However, it was the delicacy of the butterflied sardines on pan Catalan and the chargrilled chilli and rosemary squid that really captured my attention. Luckily, those recipes are doable at home, and if you’re inclined to give them a go – guess what? – I’ve got some great sips to try with them. I adore sherry with tapas, and think you can’t go wrong with the velvety, saline and nutty Colosia Fino from Puerto di Santa Maria, which you can pick up from Grape and Grind on Gloucester Road. It’s a fantastic sherry from a family-run producer, and is great with all kinds of savoury seafood tapas. If you want to try something a little different with these dishes, though, I have a couple of beauties from Ben and the team at Novel Wines too, the Bath-based online wine company which focuses on truly unique wines from family-owned vineyards and community cooperatives. Whenever seafood is on a plate with tomato, I automatically think rosé (no, rosé is not just for summer!). Chateau Ksara Sunset rosé 2016 is a medium-bodied Cabernet Franc and Syrah blend from the Beqaa Valley in Lebanon. It has a surprising petrol nose and is not at all like the delicately perfumed Provençal pinks we’re all used to. You can tell from the aroma that it’s going to work well with the sardine recipe: it has more than enough body to stand up to the oily fish; there are lively redcurrants when you taste it that go fabulously with the tomatoes; and there’s a dash of spice and a long finish which will stand up to that crunchy sourdough. But if white wine with squid is your thing, try the Sabar Keknyelu 2016 from Lake Balaton in Hungary. Keknyelu is a rare single-sex grape variety (it’s female!) and is planted next to a male grape variety. (Now that’s a fact your dinner party guests won’t believe.) The grapes are hand-harvested from the vineyard on the southern slopes of the beautiful Csobanc Mountain, and the resulting wine’s vivid, mineral nose with a slight hint of dry aniseed is really alluring, making it brilliant with the chilli and rosemary dressing. The lean and crisp flavour is almost savoury and not fruit driven, which means it’s the perfect partner to the delicate squid itself. Yes, we usually drink Spanish wine with tapas, but if you plonk one of these numbers from Lebanon or Hungary on your table at dinner, they’ll not only match brilliantly, but will make a great talking point; the ice will be broken before you’ve butterflied your first sardine.
DRINK UP!
CHARGRILLED CHILLI AND ROSEMARY SQUID SERVES 2 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 red chillis, finely chopped 1 tbsp rosemary, chopped extra virgin olive oil 2-3 fresh squid, cleaned, with tentacles ½ lemon
SARDINES ON PAN CATALAN SERVES 2 2 slices sourdough bread extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove 2 tomatoes (best you can find), halved 4 sardines, butterflied with the tails on (get your fishmonger to do this for you) pinch smoked salt ¼ lemon, juice only
Andy Clarke is a freelance TV producer and writer; follow him on Twitter @TVsAndyClarke; one4thetable.com
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1 Make the dressing: combine the garlic, chilli and rosemary. Add just enough oil to cover. 2 Oil and season the squid and tentacles, and cook over a hot barbecue. Let the squid get nice and charred before turning over (approx. 3 minutes), then flip and cook for another 1 minute on the other side. Remove from the heat. 3 Slice into rings, dress liberally with the chilli oil and serve with lemon wedges.
1 Generously drizzle the bread with oil and toast on the grill until it’s charred and crispy. 2 Rub the toast with the garlic clove then the cut tomato, getting as much flesh onto the toast as possible. Season with the smoked salt and add to the plate. 3 Season the sardines and grill on a barbecue (alternatively fry in a good non-stick pan), skin side down until just cooked (1½ to 2 minutes). Squeeze over a little of the lemon and place on the toast. patanegrabristol.com
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Join us for
Christmas 3-course menu from ÂŁ28 per person Our Christmas menu is served from Friday 23rd November up to and including Monday 24th December and is available Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner. Book a party of 12 or more and we will treat the organiserto a gift card to the value of ÂŁ25 to be spent in the New Year at any OHH pub.
Bear & Swan
13 South Parade, Chew Magna, Somerset, BS40 8PR 01275 331100 | thebearandswan@ohhcompany.co.uk
The Old House at Home
Burton, Near Castle Combe, Wiltshire, SN14 7LT 01454 218227 | theoldhouseathome@ohhcompany.co.uk
The Northey Arms
Bath Road, Box, Wiltshire, SN13 8AE 01225 742333 | thenorthey@ohhcompany.co.uk
The Rising Sun
91 West Town Road, Backwell, North Somerset, BS48 3BH 01275 462215 | therisingsun@ohhcompany.co.uk
at
Home of the historic Stanton Drew Stone Circles and Cove. Recently under new management with a firm local and tourist following. A truly spectacular open log fire and cosy atmosphere to be experienced by all. Serving good food & an array of drinks in relaxed, welcoming surroundings. Enclosed child-friendly garden. Local ales & cider. Fresh, seasonal menus. Visit our website for more info on our events! www.thedruidsarms.co.uk • 01275332230 The Druid’s Arms, 10 Bromley Road, Stanton Drew BS39 4EJ
CAFE KITCHEN Welcome to our award-winning café - providing young people with special needs a unique opportunity to gain work experience and training. We are working with the local community and employers to develop work experience opportunities after students have worked in 3 Cafe Kitchen.
Join us for breakfast on Saturday mornings Open 8am-12, with breakfast served until 11am. Full breakfast menu and freshly baked cakes, scones, coffee and a range of cold drinks always available. No booking required. Open Monday to Friday 8am–4pm | Saturday 8am–12pm Available for private hire. Please call 01225 830377 or email lucy.beattie@threeways.co.uk Located @ 180 Frome Road, Odd Down, BA2 5RF. Limited parking available on site, full wheelchair and buggy access.
FRONT OF HOUSE SUPERVISORS SOMMELIERS MANAGERS CHEFS
100% Cold-Pressed Juice
info@purplecarrot-recruitment.com www.purplecarrot-recruitment.co.uk
Rooted Cafe and Supper Rooms Vegetarian & Vegan • Family Run • Community Based • Sustainable Opening Times: Sunday to Wednesday - 8:30am to 5pm | Thursday to Saturday – 8:30am to 9pm 20 Newbridge Road, Bath, BA1 3JX rootedcafebath
rooted_cafe
ARMOURY
CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS
Hang on, you’ve shown me a Crock-Pot before. It’s one of those American slow cooker things. You’re right and you’re right. But you’re also not right, as I’ve never shown you one quite like this. This is the Crock-Pot Express Multi Cooker, you see, and it offers four ways to cook in one: you can slow cook, you can pressure cook, you can steam, and you can brown or sauté. Best of all, you can pick which one you want with ease – eight popular onepot favourites, like stews and chilli, each have their own dedicated button you can press, then you’re ready to go. It’s super-fast, too, when you need it to be – up to 70 percent faster than usual when pressure cooking, in fact. So it’s for the lazy cook, right? More the timepoor one – and isn’t that all of us, at least on occasion? (You can use this thing to knock up a risotto from scratch in eight minutes, for instance.) But remember, it can also handle a leisurely all-day slow cook. Up to you. A-ha! You’re playing the versatile card here, are you? Just so! It’s the Helen Mirren of cookery. And it’s big, too – nearly six litres big, in fact – meaning it will happily feed the whole family. (So maybe Robbie Coltrane would be a better comparison.) Bit bitchy. Sorry. I really meant, ‘Robbie Coltrane as Hagrid would be a better comparison’. As Hagrid’s pretty big, you know. Yeah, sure. Moving swiftly on… Did I tell you about the sauté function, by the way? It means you can brown ingredients in the pot before adding the rest. Or the steamer, for cooking veg quickly while keeping all the goodness? Go on then, tell me how fast it can cook some other dishes… Steamed fish? Six minutes. A tasty North African tagine? Ten minutes. An entire roast chicken? Forget an hour and a half, and think half an hour instead. So now I’m worried. What am I going to do with all the extra time I’ll have? Get an allotment? Buy a metal detector? Take up trout tickling? Build the Taj Mahal out of Lego? If you ask me, you’ll have enough time on your hands to give ’em all a go. Crock-Pot Express Multi Cooker is out now, £89.99, from Lakeland in Bath or The Mall at Cribbs Causeway; crockpot.co.uk
CROCKEd-UP
FOR A MIDWEEK MEAL, SORTED LICKETY-SPLIT AND BIG ENOUGH TO LAST ’TIL TOMORROW TOO, YOU CAN’T GO WRONG WITH THE LATEST FROM CROCK-POT, SAYS MATT BIELBY THIS MONTH • POT LUCK • FLAMOUS • INSIDER
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The Supper Club
FIRESIdE WE TOOK A TRIP TO RURAL SOMERSET, AS WORD ON THE STREET WAS THAT ROTH BAR AND GRILL WAS HOSTING A PRETTY SPECIAL DINNER WITH A GUEST CHEF – AND YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY, THERE’S NO SMOKE WITHOUT FIRE... WORDS BY JESSICA CARTER PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALICE WHITBY
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ure, Roth Bar and Grill might be set in the former cowshed of a centuriesold farm in Somerset, and it certainly does retain the character of the original building and reflect the surrounding countryside – just as so many old, rural venues do. But this place is just a little bit (read: properly) special. Its coolness brims over the bespoke bar (designed by Björn and Oddur Roth in honor of their late artist father and grandfather, Dieter Roth); it oozes out of the raw stone walls and from behind the countless works of art that hang on them; and it spills out of the building onto the terrace, with its fire pits and kitchen garden. Roth shares the farm with renowned art gallery Hauser and Wirth – which helps shape and inspire much of its concept – as well as livestock that roam the fields. It’s a venue that Melissa Hemsely admitted to us she thought “way too cool” for her to cook at. As it happened, though, Steve and Jules Horrell (who head up the restaurant) got in touch with this cook and food writer to ask her to collaborate with the kitchen team here on one of their From the Fire Feasts, which they hold every Thursday evening.
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Melissa (who this year released her first solo book Eat Happy, having written two previously with her sister) had spent the day in the kitchen at Roth, and was still in prep mode, busying herself behind the counter of the open kitchen, when we rocked up on the warm, sunny evening. Cocktail in hand (a Drink Happy, made with peach and prosecco), we mosied around the space, checking out the eclectic farm-themed art and peering at the impressive joints of meats hanging in the glass-fronted salt room. All the proper action that evening, though, was taking place outside. Tables had been lined up, end-to-end, across the covered terrace and set with lanterns and folded cloth napkins. Beyond were the fires: cedar planks were propped up around the edges of a smouldering fire pit, peachy fillets of trout pinned to them, while flames licked the underside of a tray holding juicy spatchcock chickens.
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With everyone having taken their seats and got well acquainted with their neighbours, Melissa and the chefs ducked out of the kitchen to run us through the evening’s menu and talk about the inspiration behind the dishes – some of which had been adapted from Melissa’s book. Starters were served sharing style. The trout had been skinned, portioned up and placed on platters atop a fresh and crunchy cabbage and cucumber ’slaw. To finish the dish: a drizzle of Melissa’s own-recipe hoisin sauce, a scattering of sesame seeds and charred lime halves. There was also a colourful and fruity salad of ruby-red watermelon chunks and grilled avocado, over which Homewood ewe’s cheese was crumbled. Dollops of olive tapenade were placed in among the muddle of colours and textures. Those very British dinner table pleasantries (the ones which always pop up when sharing plates are put in front of new friends: the “no, you go first,” and the “are you sure you’ve had enough?”) evaporated quickly, the desire to pile plates high overriding the eagerness to be perfectly mannered.
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The next course was dished onto our plates for us, directly from the chefs who’d spent all day cooking it: we lined up to proffer our crockery, our eyes wandering all the way down the service line to try and get first look of the feast. Hunks of spatchcock chicken wore beautifully charred skin, while the pearly white flesh below remained soft and plump (the meat had come from Castlemead Poultry, just a 30 minute drive away, where the birds are free to roam and left to grow slowly). A quinoa salad, rich with herbs and tomato, came next, and the dish was completed with grilled corn on the cob, salad leaves and Russian dressing. As the sun dipped, blankets were passed around and jumpers began to be pulled over heads, and pots of chocolate mousse emerged from the kitchen. The rich, dark choc was spiked with a well-balanced hit of salt, and topped with honeycomb and strawberries. By this point, a fair few diners had Espresso Martinis in-hand and looked settled in for the remainder of the evening. We, though, folded our blankets, dished out our goodbyes and headed for the car, knowing that we wouldn’t be able to resist those cocktails much longer if we stayed... The next From the Fire Feasts will be held on 11 and 25 October; rothbarandgrill.co.uk
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QUINOA AND TOMATO SALAD 4 tomatoes, diced 1 large avocado, flesh diced 8 radishes, diced 1 small red onion, finely chopped large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped 2 tbsp butter (or ghee) 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 200g quinoa, rinsed ½ lemon (zest and juice) 500ml water (or stock) 1 large handful of basil leaves, roughly chopped 1 Put the tomato, avocado, radish, red onion and coriander into a bowl and toss to combine. Season to taste and set aside. 2 Melt the butter in a pan, then add the onion and fry over a medium heat for 5 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and fry for a further 30 seconds. 3 Add the quinoa, lemon zest and a pinch of salt and pour in the water, then bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, cover and cook until the liquid has been absorbed and the quinoa is tender (about 15 minutes). 4 Uncover, fluff the quinoa with a fork and set aside to allow to cool. 5 Stir through the lemon juice, fresh basil leaves and the tomato salad. Season with salt and pepper.
BLACKENED SPATCHCOCK CHICKEN 1 chicken (approx. 1½kg) 1 tbsp cumin seeds 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 6 green cardamom pods, seeds removed and finely ground using a pestle and mortar 1 tbsp chilli flakes 1 tbsp dried thyme 1 lemon (zest and juice) 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 heaped tbsp caster sugar 3-4 tbsp olive oil 1 Place the chicken breast-side-down on a chopping board. Using a sharp knife, make incisions on either side of the top of the spine. Insert the knife into one incision point and, using the spine as your guide, pull down the knife to cut away the spine from that side of the chicken. Repeat on the other side to release the spine, then discard the bone (or use it for making stock). Turn the bird over so that the breast side is facing upwards and press firmly down to flatten the carcass. 2 Mix the remaining ingredients in a bowl to make a paste (using about ½ the lemon’s juice), season with salt and pepper and rub it all over the skin side of the bird. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for 20 minutes, or overnight. 3 Preheat the oven to 230C/450F/gas mark 8. 4 Line a large baking tray with baking paper and lay the bird on it, skin side facing upwards. Roast for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the skin is crisp and browned. Leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
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It’s all about the little details… With an Art and Design Degree & over 15 years experience as a kitchen designer in Bath and the surrounding areas, Kelly has a wealth of experience of high-quality luxury german kitchens and installations that have gained much recognition and repeat business. Whether it’s the most contemporary kitchen or even a classic shaker style design you are looking for then Kelly can help you create your perfect kitchen. With a loyal and established team of local fitters and builders, Kelly will make the whole experience easy and enjoyable as possible. Call Kelly today for your dream german kitchen!
8 Pulteney Terrace, Bath, Bristol BA2 4HJ Email: kelly@kellymariekitchens.com Showroom: 01225 481881 Mobile: 07796554466 www.kellymariekitchens.com
NEW SHOP FRONTAL Proud finalist of
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BEER SHOP
BOTTLES AND TAPS www.brendansbrewtique.co.uk beer@brendansbrewtique.co.uk 104-106 QUEENS ROAD, CLIFTON, BRISTOL BS8 1NF
HUNDREDS OF BEERS AVAILABLE FOR
CONSUMPTION ON OR OFF THE PREMISES
Bath’s specialist commercial flooring company
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6 STEPS TO THE PERFECT KITCHEN THINKING OF A KITCHEN REDESIGN? STOP RIGHT THERE! HERE’S SOME ADVICE FROM LOCAL INTERIORS PROS ON SIX OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE YOU START IMPULSE BUYING…
Elmore Kitchens’ showroom features modern Trilium Dekton worktops
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1 TRI AGAIN Want to make sure your working environment is as efficient as possible? You might want to think about this three-sided argument… “The kitchen work triangle is a concept used to determine efficient kitchen layouts,” explains Clayton Davidson of Valley of Bath. “The primary tasks in a home kitchen are carried out between the cook top, the sink and the refrigerator; these three points and the imaginary lines between them make up what kitchen experts call the ‘work triangle’.” Alison Bracey of Bracey Interiors says this is an important point to consider, but that we should also remember the rules are not set in stone. “The segments of the triangle represent the traffic flow within the kitchen, ensuring the client can work efficiently and effectively. However, whilst it offers a proven and recognised way of designing a kitchen, it does not apply to all kitchen layouts, such as galley-style kitchens or kitchens with a single wall or two parallel ways.”
2 COUNTER CULTURE Kitchen worktops sure take some abuse, what with hot pans, sauce spills and dirty dishes. So if you don’t have enough of it, or choose the wrong material, you’re going to have some issues. Vicky Elmore of Elmore Kitchens in Bath has some top tips on how you can get the most out of those surfaces. “Maximise worktop space by keeping it as clutter free as possible; start by replacing the kettle with a boiling water tap (not only does it free up workspace, but there’s no more waiting for the kettle to boil or wasting water). Built in utility rails can also lift herbs, cooking oils, kitchen rolls and things off the worktops. If space allows, incorporate an island or peninsular into your kitchen design to house your hob.” When it comes to materials, there are some pretty low-maintenance, tech-forward options to consider: “Quartz has been a firm favourite amongst our customers for a while,” says Vicky, “but Dekton is gradually taking over. Dekton has been pressure-compacted under a weight equivalent to two and a half Eiffel Towers! It’s the most scratch-resistant surface on the market and is completely stain proof. In addition, it withstands high temperatures, meaning hot pots and pans can be placed directly on the surface.”
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switched on 15 minutes before cooking begins. Ducting out through walls or ceilings is the most effective method, but extractors can recirculate the air within the room with the aid of carbon filters. “Extractors can be hidden within a kitchen cabinet or used as a feature. Factors to think about include the position of the extractor (above or below the hob?), whether you want to connect the hob to the hood so when the heat is turned up on the hob the extractor increases its speed, and whether you want the extractor to be a statement or out of view.”
5 LIGHT BLUB MOMENT
Extraction systems needn’t be overhead; some are built into the hob to suck the steam downwards...
Whether it’s making sure we can properly see what we’re doing when we’re working, or having the right mood lighting for eating, the light in your kitchen needs more consideration than you may think. “Natural light can be a problem – especially in old houses, as they tend to have smaller windows,” points out Tom Jones-Marquez. “Old buildings are often listed, so getting planning permission to try to ease the room into a form that suits modern living is a battle. Lighting solutions can be used, though, to open up the existing spaces and bring life into closed rooms. Pendant lighting works well over an island or breakfast bar as it creates a focal point and provides softer lighting over the eating area. Spotlights work well around the cook and prep zones too, by providing a more functional, clean aesthetic. “We also utilise non-traditional lighting solutions like semi-reflective materials across the cabinets and worktops. Contemporary kitchens often achieve this more effectively than classic kitchens, though, which tend to feel heavier.”
6 FASHION POLICE
3 MAX OUT Speaking of maximising space, how about getting the most from your storage? We’ve all tried reaching that jar at the back of the cupboard, only to knock everything in front of it over, domino-style, so that it tumbles in slow motion off the shelf and into all four corners of the kitchen. And don’t even get us started on blindly feeling around in the darkness of an awkward corner cabinet for those scales. We can do better than that, surely? Tom Jones-Marquez of Bath Bespoke thinks so. “The larder becomes key if there isn’t the space to create a pantry – it can hold lots of internal drawers and spice racks. We help people carefully plan which food types will be going where, so that the shelves store them efficiently. At the moment, we are making a lot of ‘cook centres’; imagine a large 1200mm-wide, full-height, four-door larder, with a worktop inside for food processors, toasters and other small appliances. The doors bifold or slide back into pockets, thereby reducing clutter. “Islands can also help, if you utilise the hollow space. Add drawers and more drawers, perhaps with multi-functioning waste solutions in there for all of your recycling. Open shelving for cookery books and plants on the dining room side of the island works well to soften the ‘functional kitchen’ aesthetic, too.”
4 THAT SUCKS Kitchens love to collect evidence of all your feasts past, don’t they? Be it in lingering smells or a sticky, greasy residue, some dinners hang around for far longer than just the evening. That’s where a decent extraction system comes in. Technology is really advancing in this area – and is well worth investing in. Vicky Elmore says, “Important features to look out for are the efficiency and noise levels; whilst style and budget are important, remember that less expensive extractors are often noisy and inefficient. A simple way of working out the most efficient extractor for your kitchen space is to multiply the volume of the room by 10; an effective extractor should change the air in the kitchen 10 times an hour and should, ideally, be
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Sure, function is key in the design of your kitchen – but that doesn’t mean you have to compromise on form. If you’re going to totally redesign your space, you want it to look the part, right? Alison Bracey gives us the low-down on the most current trends: “Kitchens are no longer just a functional room – they have become the central hub of a home, being a place to cook, relax and socialise,” she says. “Industrial-inspired kitchens featuring functional cabinetry and concrete surfaces are a big trend for 2018/19, and brushed brass is this year’s standout metal, giving a luxurious finish. Colour trends include natural shades of green with maybe bold shades of orange, or deep blue accent shades. By using a variety of tonal shades and textures you will be ensuring you achieve a timeless design which has both character and longevity.” Good point; you don’t want to spend all this time and money on a new, super-fancy kitchen, only for it to fall ungracefully out of fashion in a couple of years. Kelly Marie of Kelly Marie Kitchen Interiors says it’s all about the accessories, as they can easily be changed: “The key items to change up when you want to update your kitchen are the stools, lights, cupboard handles, taps and accessories, such as the kettle or mixer." In terms of one of the most integral kitchen elements that you can’t change – the worktop – Kelly suggests a marble look, for its timelessness, and ability to work with a variety of styles and colours. “Marble is the most popular look among my clients,” she says. “Real marble is not recommended in kitchens, though – so marbleeffect quartz and laminates are used. There are so many different marble effects – the bigger the veins, the more impact you will have.”
Think you could do with some professional help? (Yes, we’re still talking kitchen design.) Hit up one of our pros to see how they could make your kitchen dreams come true... l bathbespoke.co.uk l braceyinteriors.co.uk l elmorekitchens.com
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l kellymariekitchens.com l valleyofbath.co.uk
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The Want List SHAKE UP YOUR TABLE DECOR WITH THESE ALTERNATIVE SALT AND PEPPER DESPENSERS 2
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1. Menu Bottle Grinders, £65 These sleek bottle grinders, with their contemporary, minimalist design, will update the dining table spread instantly, and won’t leave any dusty mess where they’re stood. Available from Salcombe Trading in Bath; salcombetrading.co.uk 2. Tiger Salt and Pepper Shakers, £23 By Bristol designer Hannah Turner, these handmade ceramic shakers would make a gr-r-reat gift (sorry about that), especially for that cat lover we all know. Find them at Fig 1 in Bristol; fig1.co.uk 3. Granite Salt and Pepper Pot Set, £12.50 This pair of little pots, with their tiny spoons, have a modern Scandi style and are ideal if you like your salt in nice chunky crystals. Find them at Rossiters in Bath; rossitersofbath.com 4. Porcelain Salt Pig, £6.50 As at home on the worktop as on the dinner table, this traditional-look salt pig will keep your stash safe and free of clumping. Get yours online from Sous Chef; souschef.co.uk 5. Wooden Salt and Pepper Spoon, £1.50 These tiny wooden spoons from a Cotswold-based ceramicist have a natural, rustic feel and are great for scattering salt from a bowl, or measuring it out for cooking. Find them online; notonthehighstreet.com/artisan
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Open dai ly from 9:3 0am for break fast coffee an , d homemad e cakes.
Bar • Kitchen Dining Curl up on our leather chesterfield and enjoy fondues by cosy open fires, open plan theatre kitchen and award-winning chefs
Pinchos, Tapas and Sherry tasting Friday 12th Oct | 8 wines, 8 dishes | £35 with Gonzales Byass
October Supper Club Thursday 25th Oct | Autumn feast by the fire | 4 courses £25 Salt cod croquettes saffron mash Sauteed New forest wild mushrooms, truffle oil and Parmesan Rump of lamb, mini Lancashire Hot pot, lamb jus Classic lemon meringue pie
TO BOOK CALL 01225 865650 67 Woolley St, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1AQ info@thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk • thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk
The
NEW INN
CASK ALES • HOMEMADE FOOD • STUNNING VIEWS Park Lane, Blagdon, BS40 7SB | Tel: 01761 462 475 | www.newinnblagdon.co.uk
Award Winning, Family Run Farm Shop Established for over 30 years Selling Quality Local Produce Open Daily 9am – 6pm (9.30am – 5pm on Sundays)
HOME & LOCALLY REARED FRESH MEAT, POULTRY & GAME HOMEMADE SAUSAGES, BURGERS & FAGGOTS Home Reared Christmas Turkeys – Orders taken from 1st October
LOCAL CHEESES & HOME COOKED MEATS LOCALLY GROWN VEGETABLES, FRUIT & SALADS HOMEMADE CAKES & PIES LOCALLY MADE CHOCOLATES & FUDGE FINE WINE, LOCAL ALE & CIDER
Join us for our Tasting Days Saturday 29th Sept Saturday 24th Nov
PRESERVES & CHUTNEYS GIFT HAMPERS www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk 01249 658112 Allington Bar Farm, Chippenham, SN14 6LJ
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10.30am – 3pm Meet our suppliers and sample their delicious produce!
£23.50 FOR THREE COURSES £18.50 FOR TWO COURSES PRE-BOOKED CRACKERS INCLUDED!
STARTERS
Celeriac soup with toasted hazelnuts & a truffle oil drizzle, with crusty bread (v) Ham hock terrine with toasted malt loaf & spiced apple chutney Warm beetroot & mushroom salad on toasted rye bread (v)
MAIN COURSES Roast turkey with all the festive trimmings Cod with a citrus crust and a warm quinoa, edamame & tarragon salad (gf) Winter greens & coconut Dahl with naan and coconut yogurt raita (v,gf,df) Most mains served with roast potatoes & seasonal vegetables
Book your Christmas meal now at
The Catherine Wheel Marshfield, Bath SN14 8LR
01225 892220 roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
PUDDINGS Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Clementine & almond cake with cream & clementine syrup (gf) Pear poached in red wine with toasted pistachios (gf,df) Cheese with chutney & savoury biscuits £6.50
Available from Friday 30th November to Sunday 30th December (excl 25 & 26 Dec)
v = vegetarian / gf = prepared using no gluten containing ingredients / df = dairy free Other allergy options available – please ask and we will try to accommodate any requests.
We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome. PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION
Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB • 01761 470408 Email: info@kingwilliaminn.co.uk • f T @kingwilliam84 www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk
JUST A PUB, NOTHING MORE, NEVER LESS. www.theravenofbath.co.uk 01225 425045 | 7 Queen St, Bath, BA1 1HE
The Old Ham Tree, Ham Green, Holt, Wilts, BA14 6PY Tel: 01225 782 581 www.theoldhamtree.com
IPH-Recruitment specialises in recruiting staff for the hospitality and catering industry both on a permanent and temporary basis. Our dyed-in-thewool team at IPH-Recruitment meet our candidates face-to-face whether they be a chef, kitchen porter, barista or event staff. We believe in being open and honest to make sure both clients and candidates are perfectly maaaaa-tched and haaaaappy.
Natalie Player Director
Deborah Atkinson Director
☎ 01367 246 029 ☎ 07890 539 877 ✉ Natalie@iphrecruitment.co.uk
☎ 01367 246 029 ☎ 07875 633 923 ✉ Deborah@iphrecruitment.co.uk
www.iphrecruitment.co.uk | info@iphrecruitment.co.uk Brunel House, Faringdon Business Centre, Faringdon, SN7 7YR
Avenue Café has been at the forefront of the café scene in Bristol since 2000. We are more than just a coffee shop, offering great food, amazing products and friendly, efficient customer service. We are a family orientated café and we take great care in the service and food provided.
0117 305 0505 f Avenue Café a AvenueCafe1 www.avenue-cafe.com St. Luke’s House, Emerson’s Green, Bristol BS16 7AR
DID YOU KNOW? We’re now open on Friday and Saturday evenings till 11.30pm! Dine from our delicious menu or enjoy a drink from our very tempting list of gin cocktails.
MA INs
SIDER TOP CULINARY CAUSES, IN NEERs KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIO
The Pony and Trap is a great shout if you’re looking for somewhere to hunker down in during chillier weather
TAKE COVER
COSY PUBS TO HOLE UP IN THIS AUTUMN PAGE 109
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FIRES ROARING LOG (*OKAY, SLIGHNT ) EXAGGERATIO
HOW TO BECOME A MORE INTUITIVE COOK, WITH NIKI SEGNIT PAGE 118
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A country pub in the time-honoured tradition; a place to eat, drink and sleep.
CHRISTMAS MENUS AVAILABLE Bookings now being taken!
GAME TASTING NIGHT
Tuesday October 16th
NATIVE LOBSTER AND CHIPS
Pairing Urbina Rioja with some fantastic Game all shot locally.
Starting in October
Every Friday
BONFIRE NIGHT
Sunday 4th November Hot Dogs and Mulled Cider. Starting at 5pm. Please call for more information.
The Wheatsheaf, Combe Hay, Bath BA2 7EG 01225 833504 | info@wheatsheafcombehay.com | www.wheatsheafcombehay.com
ThE hUNKER GAMES
FEEL THAT? BIT OF A CHILL IN THE AIR, ISN’T THERE. AS TEMPERATURES DROP, LEAVES TURN BROWN AND WE BEGIN TO WONDER IF THAT HOT SNAP WAS BUT A DREAM, ATTENTIONS NATURALLY TURN TO WARM AND COSY PUBS, WHERE WE CAN HUNKER DOWN FOR ENTIRE AFTERNOONS, AVOIDING THE CHILL AND ENJOYING HEARTY, AUTUMNAL FOOD AND DRINK. PLACES, YOU MIGHT SAY, JUST LIKE THESE...
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CITY HANGOUTS CHRISTMAS STEPS
This Bristol pub has been going in its current guise since 2014, although the building dates back a wee bit further (like, to the 17th century). Perching on a cobbled street in the centre, the Tudor-style facade hints at the stone walls, exposed beams, cosy nooks and crannies, and charmingly wonky angles you’ll find inside. Feeling the chill? Head over to the wood burner with a drink in hand: keep your eye out for the Crack Amber Ale which will be coming back this winter, and those seasonal pies are a surefire way to curb hunger pangs. christmassteps.wpengine.com
THE LOCKSBROOK INN
With an actual snug to retreat to in the colder weather (heated with its own fire, and with comfy furniture to curl up on), this Bath pub is as appealing in the winter as it is in the summer (it has a huge garden and backs onto the canal). To drink, there are lots of options on the new cocktail list; we’d be tempted by the Negroni, made with Tanqueray gin, sweet vermouth, Campari and an orange twist. And if (we mean when) hunger strikes, it has to be a pie, right? The new chicken, leek and tarragon number with truffled greens is a goer. thelocksbrookinn.com
MARLBOROUGH TAVERN
If you’re in search of some grub as well as warmth, grab a table in the dining area by the fire here. Maybe kick off with a crispy duck slider with smoked breast, hoisin and
kimchi, and follow up with a fish pie served with cockle bisque. To end, it doesn’t get more comforting than crumble; especially a hazelnut and cinnamon version with blackberry purée. Post-meal coffees come from the ace Bristol Twenty, but if a flat white’s not got quite enough kick for you, go for a liquor coffee with Remy Martin brandy – that’ll get you warmed up, inside and out. marlborough-tavern.com
THE OLD CROWN
With three fires, The Old Crown will make sure you don’t go cold this autumn and is ideal for retreating into after a long Kelston Roundhill walk (you may well see the muddy wellies of people who’ve had the same idea, discarded at the door). To sip on, go for a mulled wine if there’s some on the go, or check out the wintery cocktails. Crack open one of the board games, or make use of the outdoor heaters and blankets in the pub garden. oldcrownkelston.com
Sink into the sofas at The Locksbrook Inn (top); candlelight at the Christmas Steps (bottom)
THE THREE TUNS
Tis the season when people flock to this old school boozer in the centre of Bristol. It’s been trading as pub under this name for more than 200 years, and is just as crooked, rustic and cosy as you’d hope with that kind of history. Get those mitts warmed on the fire before filling ’em with a pint glass – there’s a really decent collection of craft beers here. (The team would recommend something dark and rich, like a stout or malty amber bitter this autumn, in case you need a bit of help choosing.) If you’re still hanging around in the evening, you may well get treated to live music or be tempted into a quiz – there’s always something going on at this popular joint. the3tuns.com
COUNTRY HIDEAWAYS THE BULL AT HINTON
You won’t spot anyone shivering in this place; the two log burners and a big open fire will surely see to that. The old stone building, with its leaded windows, stone floors and woodpanelled walls, has a varied history, having been an inn, a farm building and a dairy over its four centuries. Admire the surroundings over a full-bodied Argentinian Malbec from the bar, or perhaps you’d rather get your hands on a Hot Toddy, with whisky, cinnamon, honey and lemon? That should see off any sniffles – especially if you use it to wash down those popular faggots, made with the chefs’ own blend of the best cuts, and served with lashings of red wine gravy. thebullathinton.co.uk
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M A I N S
Clockwise: music at The Three Tuns; hearty food at The Kings Arms; an open fire crackles at The Old Crown
THE DRUIDS ARMS
Stanton Drew is a wee rural village just outside Bristol, and is exactly where you’ll find this here country pub. Walking in on a nippy day, you may well notice the huge open fire first, but we bet your attention will soon turn to the fully stocked bar. If you’re keen for a feed, the menu has everything from light lunches – like fresh homemade soups – to big, hearty meals. Cosy and welcoming, this is a great place to thaw out after a walk to check out the three nearby stone circles. thedruidsarms.co.uk
THE GEORGE
Four open fires across three floors and a peppering of comfy Chesterfields make this Bradford-on-Avon gaff a particularly fitting hideaway in the colder months. Secrete yourself away in a corner with a glass of wine, or get a coffee and a slice of cake and crack on with a good book. If you want a more seasonally inspired sip, try the La Copa by Gonzales Byass; served over ice, this red vermouth is made with wintery botanicals such as cinnamon, orange, clove and nutmeg. After something to eat? The beef Wellington is a hearty choice, featuring local fillet wrapped in duxelle and puff pastry, and served with a Madeira jus. thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk
INN AT FRESHFORD
The ‘two valley walk’ is a popular riverside route near this village pub, and provides you with a perfect excuse (if you need one) to seek warmth and sustenance in this charming old pub. All bare stone and rustic wood, it has original features a-plenty, as well as those all-important log fires. The
autumn menu proffers wholesome, homecooked dishes such as pies, and locally grown autumnal veg features heavily. Fans of mulled cider, listen up: this year the warming concoction will be made using their very own cider, produced on-site. Want something softer? Hot chocolate is always a favourite. theinnatfreshford.com
THE KINGS ARMS
Word on the street is that this pub – in the rural village of Monkton Farleigh just outside Bath – has the largest inglenook fireplace in the country. (Ooh, get them.) You could easily hole up here for an entire afternoon: with board games, colouring for kids and treats for dogs, it’s like the team here don’t want you to ever leave. (And if you don’t either, there are guest rooms you
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can stay in.) Ask what’s good on the menu and you’ll likely be told the slow-braised pig cheek with potato cake, black pudding and caramelised fennel. Hearty and filling, it’ll do just the job after an aperitif of spicy Ophir gin. Tel: 01225 859761
KING WILLIAM INN
This classic little watering hole in Tunley near Bath is heated by two log burners, while glowing lamps and candles up those cosy feels come the evening. Once you’re settled in for the long haul, we’d suggest wetting that whistle with a sloe gin and lemon tonic – or, if you’re after something warm, they often have mulled cider on the go. This autumn brings dishes like rich lamb bourguignon – if that doesn’t thaw you out, nothing will. kingwilliaminn.co.uk
NEW PICNIC AREA • Awesome coffee Delicious local food • World famous quiche Brockley Stores, Main Road, Brockley, North Somerset BS48 3AT Just 15 minutes south of Bristol on the road to Weston-super-Mare
• T: 01275 462 753 f a @brockleystores www.brockleystores.co.uk
M A I N S
THE LITTON
If you’ve been taking advantage of the nearby countryside on a leisurely stroll, you’ll be even more grateful for the soft sofas and multiple log-fires at this Somerset inn. Can’t get enough of that crisp autumn air? Take your sip outside (owner Sally Billington recommends a mulled cider spiked with winter spices), grab a blanket and huddle up to the fire-pit. The new autumn menu has just been launched, and head chef Ryan Brokenbow’s fave dish is the roast Exmoor venison with beetroot and blackberry jus. Oh, and did we mention there’s a whisky bar, too? thelitton.co.uk
THE PONY AND TRAP
As the temperatures drop, the wood burner is fired up at this cosy Chew Magna joint, allowing punters to enjoy the autumnal countryside views while keeping warm. You wouldn’t go to this Michelin-starred pub just for a quick half though, right? Check out the new-season menu and you’ll find dishes like whole roast breast and stuffed, rolled leg of guinea fowl with squash gnocchi, roasted squash and wild mushrooms. Pair it with an orange wine: they’ve got a great one on the go by the glass – Marius et Simone Domaine Giachino, made in Savoie near the Alps. theponyandtrap.co.uk
THE WHITE HART
Stone walls, exposed beams, parquet floors, chunky wooden tables and lots of comfy sofas are probably what you’d expect to find in this 16th-century Somerton inn – and you’d be right, too. Cosy up to the fire and perhaps get a Harry’s Cider Dabinett in; it’s made just down the road and is personally delivered by Harry himself, we’ll have you know. For young head chef Ashley Brill, a highlight of the new autumn menu is the whole roasted Cornish plaice with parsley, lemon and dill, hand-cut chips and tartare sauce. We’re feeling warmer already. whitehartsomerton.com
WHICH LOCAL PUBS DO YOU HEAD TO HUNKER DOWN IN THE COLD WEATHER? Tweet us @crumbsmag!
THE SWAN
The pretty village of Wedmore in Somerset is where you’ll find The Swan – it’s been sat right here since the 1700s. As you’d hope from a centuries-old country pub, it’s got rustic wooden floors, leather sofas and a wood burner, as well some more modern 21st-century style. The team have a solid gin selection that includes nine local varieties; try the Gingalita cocktail made with Gin Jar Burnt Orange Gin, lemon juice, Triple Sec and sugar syrup. To eat, how about some rare-breed pork from local butcher Jim Baker? The Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with chimichurri, pepperonata, fine beans and roast Jersey royals should fill a hole.
Clockwise from top left: The Inn at Freshford, The White Hart, The Swan, The Pony and Trap
theswanwedmore.com
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The
182 Church Rd, Redfield, Bristol BS5 9HX
Imagined in the 19th Century, Established in the 21st
THE PIRATE’S
ARE BACK!
The Pirates have returned for Halloween and our annual Airship Pirate Takeover! THE LOCK UP IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE OUR WINE PAIRED TASTING MENUS:
GAME
November 21st 2018 From the Quantocks to the Mendips. Five courses showcasing some of the finest fowl and dearest deer. Learn how to pair grouse with Gewürztraminer and rabbit with Riesling.
BEEF
October 23rd 2018 From bleu to stew and some tongue in between we celebrate all things bovine with some amazing wine. The Carpaccio with Chianti & Chuck with Syrah!
Bookings available now. With a special limited edition cocktail menu Available between the 26th and 31st October!
16 St Stephens Street Bristol BS1 1JR 01179276869 theclockworkrose.com thecaptain@theclockworkrose.com
FONDUE
December 13th 2018 As the nights draw in, let us warm you with our fantastic fondue offerings. Charcuterie, tartiflette, bread & more cheese than you can ever imagine. All paired with some interesting high altitude wines from Switzerland, Italy and Austria. Food on a stick, wine in a glass! For more details and for the full calendar of events please contact us: 0117 329 0707 | info@thelockupbristol.com www.thelockupbristol.com a thelockupuk | f x thelockupbristol Tuesday - Saturday: 10am-11pm | Sundays: 12pm-6pm Bank Holiday Mondays: 11am-5pm
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Monday to Friday: 7am to 7pm | Saturday: 7am to 5pm | Sunday: CLOSED 0117 975 5551 240-242 Gloucester Road, Bishopston, Bristol BS7 8NZ joesbakery.co.uk
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wt We deliver tasty suppers throughout central Bristol from Tuesday to Saturday.
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iki
WO R DS BY JESSICA CARTER
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© A P R AC T I C E FO R E VE RY DAY LI FE
Segnit
N
i
t was in her early twenties that Niki Segnit properly got into cooking. She spent the ensuing years pursuing her new hobby, and even made a career out of her interest in food (she worked in marketing, focusing on food and drink brands). She eventually came to notice, though, that however much she cooked, she still relied heavily on recipe books – unlike her mother and grandmother, who never seemed to use them. Even when it came to dishes that she’d prepared on multiple occasions, Niki found she still needed to have the instructions in front of her to follow each time she cooked it. Something a lot of us home cooks might relate to. “I had decades of experience cooking recipes from all over the world, but there was no depth or substance to my knowledge,” Niki tells us. “I could make almost nothing without referring to a recipe, nor did I ever join the dots between the things I was making. I was a recipe robot. “I was always a bit annoyed by the presiding spirit of intuitive cooking – the Italian nonna – making everything without recourse to instruction. And I realised I was annoyed because I wanted to be her, and wasn’t. I hadn’t been taught to cook in that way.” Niki became super aware of her dependence on written recipes, and keen to build up the knowledge she needed to become an instinctive, informed cook. It was one evening, when a friend prepared her a meal with imaginative ingredient parings, that Niki’s culinary path changed. Inspired by the flavours of the dish, and eager to learn how to create similarly inventive matches, she began hunting for a book on flavour combinations, a guidebook which would teach her which ingredients go together, and why. Needless to say, the book did not exist. That is, until 2010, when her version – The Flavour Thesaurus – was published by Bloomsbury. This extensive, 400-page guide to ingredients, flavours and pairings – which took years to compile – has now sold more then 250,00 copies, and made fans out of some internationally celebrated chefs, including Yotam Ottolenghi and Nigel Slater. During the process of writing the book – which involved categorising flavours and picking apart recipes to discover what made them sing – Niki found a new need. And it was this need that eventually became her next book. “Testing unusual flavour combinations made me wish I had a book of flexible, starting-point recipes,” she says. “Again, there wasn’t one, so I started to note down my own starting points and organise them into a file. This file grew into Lateral Cooking – I see it as the method companion to The Flavour Thesaurus. The starting points are arranged on 12 continuums – bread, chocolate, custard and so on – and the transition from one recipe to the next generally only amounts to a tweak or two in the method or ingredients. “The idea was to tease out the deep culinary connections between dishes from all over the world, in a way that no one has ever done before – as far as I know.” Lateral Cooking, then, is part reference guide, part recipe book, written for people like the Niki of eight years ago, who want to be able to adapt dishes, substitute ingredients, and learn how to cook intuitively, without relying on a set of instructions. “In contrast to conventional cookery books, Lateral Cooking assumes the reader is in – or would like to be in – ‘create’ mode, not ‘copy’ mode. I like to take recipes apart; to expose their fundamentals, as it were. That way the reader can feel more confident about tinkering with them.”
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WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BEING ABLE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTION AND BEING ABLE TO COOK? IS INTUITION SOMETHING THAT CAN BE LEARNED? AND CAN IT BE THAT THE WEALTH OF RECIPES OUT THERE IS HAVING A DETRIMENTAL EFFECT ON OUR CONFIDENCE IN THE KITCHEN? WE DISCUSSED ALL OF THE ABOVE WITH NIKI SEGNIT, AHEAD OF HER VISIT TO BATH AND THE RELEASE OF HER NEW AND FIRST-OF-ITS-KIND BOOK
CRUMBSMAG.COM
CHRISTMAS CELEBRATIONS 2018 Christmas at Ston Easton Park is a feast for all the senses. Whether you are in need of a quiet, relaxing break, seeking a venue to entertain friends and colleagues or in search of a decadent treat, our gift to you is the very finest cuisine along with attentive yet unobtrusive service, wrapped up in a stunning 18th century Palladian mansion. Ston Easton Park could have been purpose built for Christmas. The beautifully proportioned rooms, open log fires and spectacular festive decorations and Christmas trees come together to create the perfect atmosphere for a traditional Christmas house party. Join us for a two or three day festive break, we’ll take all the strain out of the arrangements and provide you with the relaxing escape you deserve. VOUCHERS ARE AVAILABLE THROUGH OUR WEBSITE OR DIRECTLY. AN IDEAL CHRISTMAS GIFT!
CHRISTMAS LUNCHES
BLACK TIE SHARED CHRISTMAS PARTY
For parties of 9 people or more we will be serving our 3 Course festive Lunch menu starting from £32.00 or Dinner from £37.50 per person in the Sorrel Restaurant. From 1st to 23rd December
Are you planning the perfect way to celebrate Christmas with your family, friends or work colleagues? Perfect for small office parties. Dates available £70.00 per person
Exclusive use Christmas Party dates also available
25% OFF
AFTERNOON TEA Including Vegan Afternoon Tea for one. See website for details.
Ston Easton, Nr Bath, Somerset BA3 4DF To book, call 01761 241631 or email reception@stoneaston.co.uk
www.stoneaston.co.uk
Opening Thursday 11th October 12 Upper Borough Walls, Bath Join us for our Soft Launch Weekend on 6th and 7th October
25% off all Weekend!
r Lateral Cooking by Niki Segnit (Bloomsbury, £35)
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G R I L L E D
ecipes here each contain a number of ‘leeways’, giving the reader alternative processes, advice on altering the dish for personal preferences, and insight into ingredients. “Take the leeway for soda bread/scones, for example,” says Niki. “It tells you how much baking powder to use if you don’t have bicarbonate of soda. It tells you how to make buttermilk if you don’t have a carton of it – and that you can replace it with watered-down yoghurt. It tells you that some cooks make their soda bread with water and vinegar in place of dairy. It tells you that an egg will give you a bigger, softer loaf. It gives you options for different kinds of flour: atta, for instance, the flour used to make chapatis, makes lovely soda bread. The purpose of the leeways is to give you options, both creative and practical.” This is not how standard recipe books are put together. Of course, you’ll get some tips for substitutions (“Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and the River Cottage books are particularly good at including variations, perhaps because theirs is an ingredient-led style, working with the seasons,” says Niki), but not often do they actively encourage readers to go off-piste. “The way that recipe books are designed, often with a glossy photo on one page, a recipe on the other, militates against fluidity,” Niki points out. The fact is that now, in 2018, we have access to more recipes than ever before – heaps of cookbooks are published each month, and an infinite number of recipes and cooking tips are available to us at any time of the day or night via our smart phones – yet loads of us still lack confidence in the kitchen. Ironic, or obvious? Niki says, from her own experience at least, the two points seem to be pretty obviously linked. Has this increased availability of recipes led us to become blind (or, dare we say it, lazy) cooks, feeling our way though instructions with no real idea of what’s going on? The good news is that no matter how many of these fearfully strict recipe-following habits cooks find themselves stuck in, they can absolutely be broken. “The desire to break free, along with a bit of practice, are the most important factors. Lateral Cooking aims to encourage and inspire by pointing out the connections between dishes – between those you may have made dozens of times and those you thought were beyond your skill level. It also aims to make the recipes as memorable as possible. “I’ve realised that anyone can learn to be more self-sufficient, at any age. I love being able to tweak recipes according to my own taste or the ingredients in my fridge. I like the creativity and the thrift it encourages: becoming more adaptable is a great way of avoiding food waste. Also, preparing a dish without poring over a recipe book can really speed things up; if I’m making pancakes for my kids at 7.45am, it’s a relief not having to check weights, measures or methods.” Now, Niki rarely follows recipes, she tells us, but notes that they do still have a place in her kitchen. “If I see a recipe I like in a magazine,” she says, “I’ll still collect it in my scrapbook and try it. There are writers, like Diana Henry and Yotam Ottolenghi, whose recipes are so inspiring I’ll always try it their way first. Also, I’m trying my hand at Korean dishes at the moment, and when I’m finding my way into an unfamiliar cuisine, I always find it best to start with authentic recipes.” This hefty book took Niki eight years to research and write. It’s probably safe to say, though, that it’s been been far longer in the making, as over the generations the practices of home cooks have changed and culinary horizons broadened. Writing this book taught Niki that you can learn to be intuitive in the kitchen: “Now I think of myself as somebody who can really cook.”
CRUMBSMAG.COM
The Malago
Now taking Christmas Party bookings MON - SAT: BRUNCH/LUNCH: 9AM - 3PM • DINNER: 5.30PM - 9.30PM SUNDAY: BRUNCH/LUNCH: 9AM - 12PM • ROASTS: 12:30PM - 7PM
www.themalago.club • eatout@themalago.club 220 North Street, Southville, BS3 1JD • 0117 963 9044
Cherry Ripple: super smooth gelato (less air and less fat than traditional ice cream) made with candied wild cherries from the north of Italy and sweet fresh milk from the Lacock Dairy herd. Available in 120ml, 500ml and 4 Litres. Available from the specialist wholesaler Lovejoys, The Greenhouse at Wadswick Green, Whitehall Garden Centre, Bailbrook House Hotel, The Deli at Corsham, Allington Farm Shop, Planks Farm Shop, Whiterow Farm Shop, Walter Rose & Son and other independent outlets
info@lacockdairy.co.uk | www.lacockdairy.co.uk
Just 20 minutes drive from both Bath & Bristol lies the tiny Hamlet of Stanton Wick, home to The Carpenters Arms. A TRADITIONAL INN
Serving great food in a relaxed environment in the country. Plenty of parking available. PRIVATE ROOM Perfect for relaxed private dining & small conferences. Great packages available.
Stanton Wick, Nr. Pensford North Somerset, BS39 4BX
THIRTEEN EN-SUITE BEDROOMS These delightful rooms offer king sized beds, digital flat screen televisions & superfast fibre optic internet, all in a contemporary styled room.
01761 490202 www.the-carpenters-arms.co.uk
Homely bohemian coffee and tea house with delicious food, cakes and other amazing drinks all spiced with our friendly atmosphere. Open for Breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee and drinks.
Open Monday to Saturday 8am – 6pm | Sunday 9am – 5pm 169 Gloucester Road Bristol UK
www.spicerandcole.co.uk
SPECIALIST SINGLE MALT WHISKIES, PREMIUM RUMS CRAFT WORLD AND LOCAL BEERS, COCKTAIL SPIRITS CUBAN CIGARS, FINE WINES AND CHAMPAGNES PRIVATE & CORPORATE TASTING
7 Terrace Walk, Bath • Tel: 01225 340636 Independent-Spirit-of-Bath @indiespiritbath shop@independentspiritofbath.co.uk
fa
spicerandcole
LOCAL, ORGANIC, SUSTAINABLE, ETHICAL, DELICIOUS With a wealth of experience behind us we can cater any event, bringing our ethos and values to everything we do. GET IN TOUCH TO HEAR HOW WE COULD CATER FOR YOUR EVENT
0117 954 4030 or 0117 908 5035 admin@cookingco.co.uk – www.cookingco.co.uk
CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR AT THE GRAPES This year The Grapes will be open for Christmas Day 12-4pm for lunch (booking in advance only) Christmas Day Lunch £85.00 per person for 6 courses New Years Eve £65.00 per person for 6 courses. CHRISTMAS PARTY NIGHTS are available to book now, see online for our menu £25.00 Two Courses / £32.00 Three Courses 14 Silver Street, Bradford On Avon, BA15 1JY Telephone: 01225 938088 Email: maylee@thebunchofgrapes.com
www.thebunchofgrapes.com
Tel: 07854239926 info@cliftonwineschool.com
A very warm welcome to Clifton Wine School! We are a local wine school hosting events in Bristol and Bath. Choose from our Cheese and Wine Matching night, a Fine Wine tasting, Wines of the World evening courses, Gin tasting, and so much more. Now a proud Crumbs Award Finalist too. We don’t sell wine, we sell confidence in wine knowledge from a DipWSET qualified teacher. You can purchase any course or tasting as a Wine School Gift Voucher starting from £22.50 the perfect present for any wine lovers! We also do hen parties, corporate events and professional qualifications in wines and spirits.
visit us online at www.cliftonwineschool.com
THE BRISTOL FOOD TOUR LOCAL. S EA S ONA L . S PE C I ALI ST. Christmas pre order available on our Christmas Gift Hampers and bespoke Cheese board options. Please pop into store or visit our website
The Bristol Food Tour is a unique culinary adventure showcasing the very best of Bristol’s independent food scene. Our tours are relaxed and fun, with a friendly guide to introduce you to hidden foodie gems and share insider local knowledge. Tours include at least six generous tasters, with a couple of extras along the way!
NOW TAKING BOOKINGS FOR FESTIVE TOURS! A FAB WAY TO CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS WITH FRIENDS & FAMILY
GIFT VOUCHERS AVAILABLE! We also sell beautiful gift vouchers that are valid for a year and make the perfect gift for your foodie loved ones!
Tuesday to Saturday 11 - 6 and Sunday 11 - 4 Unit 8 CARGO 2, Museum Street bristolcheesemonger@gmail.com a bristol_cheese www.bristol-cheese.co.uk bristol_cheese
To fi nd out more, please visit: www.thebristolfoodtour.com or drop us an email at: thebristolfoodtour@gmail.com
We look forward to seeing you on a tour soon!
f
thebristolfoodtour
a bristolfoodtour
T ic k £4 5 e t s a r e p inc lu p w h ic h d t he es a ll o deli f s a m c iou s ples
Chocolate making classes in the centre of Bath. Perfect for individuals, private groups or team-building events
Visit sevenhillschocolate.co.uk for more details or find us at: Bath Farmer’s Market Bath Christmas Market
HIGHLIGHTS
PIG-A-PIG AH IT'S BANGERS ALL ROUND AT THIS PORKY JOINT PAGE 132
AFTERS
FÉS NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CA FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM
DARK HORSE
A VILLAGE PUB THAT WAS SAVED BY ITS LOYAL LOCALS PAGE 144
SURPRISE PARTY
WE GIVE THE CHEF CONTROL AT THIS CELEBRATED BATH EATERY PAGE 135
HALF THE WORLD AWAY
NEW ZEALAND MEETS BRISTOL IN THIS RUSTIC DINING ROOM PAGE 142
We caught what we fear to be the last of the year’s sun in The Packhorse’s pretty pub garden
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A F T E R S
(CRACKING COMFORT FOOD)
PIGSTY JESSICA CARTER TUCKS INTO FOOD FROM A TEAM OF PORK PROS – AND IN A RATHER FITTING VENUE, TOO...
t
he story of this 2018 opening goes back a whole decade, when two Bristol brothers – pro rugby player Olly Kohn and his brother Josh – began making sausages. Noticing a gap in the market for bangers made with premium cuts of high welfare pork, they founded The Jolly Hog, and the business quickly took off. Their brother, Max, then got in on the action, and the three have been developing their range – which was soon stocked at the likes of Ocado – ever since.
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In 2016, having got their mate Will Collier involved too, the group opened the first Pigsty restaurant at Cargo in Bristol. And this year – their tenth in the sausage trade – they opened a sister joint on Gloucester Road. For reasons that the team were completely oblivious to until they had already secured the space, this is a particularly fitting spot for the pork-focused eatery. First, there’s the fact that it’s in a location historically known as Pigsty Hill. (True story.) And then, during the first stages of the building’s renovations, the team uncovered walls decorated in old-school butcher tiles. Prompted to do a bit of research, they found out that this was, in fact, the home of James Brown and Sons – a pork-specialist butcher’s shop – for 60 years, up until the 1950s. What are the chances? Those tiles are now very much on display and, along with splashes of racing green, give a vintage edge to the décor, while raw wood and metal, a polished concrete floor, and exposed, low-hanging bulbs create an industrial feel. Although much larger than its shipping container sibling, this place certainly has a similar style, and comes complete with the same Pigsty logo, made of gold screws protruding from the back wall, as you’ll find at the original. Having a full-sized kitchen (as opposed to the tiny space the team works with at Cargo) means there’s far more room for a-cookin’ here, so there’s more on offer, including a larger range of meat-free options. Brekkie ranges from an English muffin topped with Jolly Hog bacon, peanut butter and banana to the full-on Pigsty breakfast, with potato rosti, black pud, roasted tomato, black treacle bacon and sausage. From midday, the main menu encompasses a range of £5 snacks (think sausage rolls and Scotch eggs, the latter coming in both meaty and veggie varieties), pigs in buns (like the Pig Mac, featuring
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pork patty, barbecue pulled pork, smoked Cheddar, pickles and ‘baconnaise’), sarnies and mains. If you’re feeling really hungry (not to mention brave), the Pig Board has a bit of almost everything – from slow-roast belly to bangers, Scotch egg to sides. Our first order was for a pint of Pigsty’s own craft lager, which is brewed by Greene King and served on draught. It slipped down all too easily, its light, fresh taste rendering it as good a thirst-quencher as it turned out to be porky pairing. Croquettes (£5) were hot and crisp, filled with barbecued pork and served alongside baconnaise. The fluffy insides were meaty and smoky, the potato mixed with a generous amount of slow-cooked shoulder meat. The veggie ‘Bristol sausages’ with chimichurri mayo (£5) contained leek, cheese and a subtle whisper of mustard; when we bit into the golden breadcrumbed shell and tore off a mouthful it separated in strings, the cheese hot and oozing. The sausage and mash (£12) featured three types of banger. The restaurant’s are all made with pork from one farm, and contain a 50/50 mix of belly and shoulder, making them lean, juicy and full of flavour. The sweet pork and caramelised onion number was especially good, with the rich flavours of roasted garlic and kale mash (of which there was a generous heap), curls of brittle cracking and cider sauce. Rest assured, there is no waste in coming to this pork restaurant and ordering the ‘pig shy’ vegan burger (£9). Packed with pulled jackfruit, fried aubergine and salad, it was meaty in its own way, and came with a crunchy naked ’slaw (my preference over the classic version, bound with creamy mayo). The skin-on chips (£3.50) were well seasoned and perfectly cooked, meaning we were still picking at them while rubbing our full bellies. At £3 each, the simple but effective desserts are good value; slices of apple cake with apple jam were wonderfully comforting (almost reminiscent of the Jamaica ginger loaf cake my mum would feed me as kid), and the chocolate salami was rich but not overbearing. This was straight up, good-quality grub: no frills required. And now we’re coming into the autumn, it’s going to be especially popular with comfort-seeking punters, I’m willing to bet. Pigsty, 79-81 Gloucester Road, Bristol BS7 8AS; 0117 403 1247; pigstyuk.com
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f x 3 99Queens
CELEBRATING OUR 1 ST ANNIVERSARY Fresh homemade food & cake Large terrace Wifi Certificate of excellence 2018 (Trip Advisor) 99 QUEENS ROAD, CLIFTON BS8 1LW
01173 179806
( T E R R I F I C TA S T I N G M E N U S )
MENU GORDON JONES CONTROL FREAKS, SURPRISE-HATERS AND FEARERS OF THE UNKNOWN: JESSICA CARTER DARES YOU TO TRY AND DISLIKE THE MGJ EXPERIENCE
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he evening before this lunch, by total coincidence, I started reading a book by an American linguist about the language of food. (I assume that I won’t have shattered any grander illusions about how I spend my spare time, there.) It began with a chapter on reading menus, making connections between the status and cost of a restaurant with the amount of choice you get on the bill of fare, and the length of the descriptions. The author’s research suggested that, generally speaking, the higher-end and more costly a
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restaurant is, the fewer choices and descriptive words diners see on the menu. Sounds about right, doesn’t it? Of course, if you’re trying to decipher any kind of general rule or trend, you inevitably have to ignore the odd anomaly. And let’s cut to the chase here: Menu Gordon Jones is an anomaly. As is hinted at in the restaurant’s name, the menu is up to cheffounder Gordon, not the guest. There are zero decisions in your hands here (apart from maybe your drinks, and if you want to omit any ingredients from your meal), and on top of that, you don’t
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have a heads up on what is going to be placed in front of you, either. So that’s no choice and no descriptions. But, contrary to what the aforementioned data shows, that doesn’t mean you’re in a cringingly fancy, bank-breaking restaurant. Go figure. In fact, what you’ll actually find in this little, 10-table joint is a pretty relaxed vibe, largely shaped by the friendly, down-to-earth front of house team, who chat to guests with familiarity and hum along to the upbeat playlist of Buzzcocks and Arctic Monkeys. You’ll also find five-course lunches for £50, and six-course dinners for £55. So far, then, that means we’ve got the relaxed atmosphere and decent value of your favourite neighbourhood hangout, but with the concept of a high-end restaurant. And, happily, the quality of a highend restaurant, too; the food is taken seriously here – you may not be able to see the meticulous prep going on in the tiny kitchen, but the fastidious nature of this skilled chef is clearly visible in the dishes he sends out. First comes bread: on that day chocolate and cumin and a spelt sourdough. Warm and well-crusted, it was served in a paper bag with test tubes of basil oil, pomegranate molasses and salt flakes, as well as burnt onion ash butter and broccoli and Calcot onion pakoras. The starter proper was panzanella salad mousse. Piped into a bowl and topped with edible flowers, it was cool and delicate in both texture and flavour, and delivered subtle heat by way of mustard seeds. Perfectly summery and unpredictable, it confidently set the tone of the meal. My surprise-hating lunch companion started to relax. Cornish pollock ceviche further upped the bar: delicate, translucent slices of raw fish sat among green Isle of Wight tomato, cucumber, avocado emulsion and green strawberries. Fresh, almost Asian in flavour, it delivered a real umami kick that lingered in the back of the mouth. Veal sweetbreads were deep fried and coated in a crisp and bubbly, well-seasoned batter, alongside shredded red cabbage mingled with pineapple and well-pitched spice. A deliciously savoury peanut butter sauce draped itself over a dense ball of sticky rice and tied the whole dish – perhaps my favourite of the meal – together. With it came a light, fruity Italian red wine which, served chilled, was all cherry and red berry in flavour. (Indeed, the whole wine flight was bold and unobvious, adding to the concept of the surprise.) Next, Cornish turbot had been gently steamed and buddied with seasoned lobster meat, Jersey royals and a crunchy, slightly sharp sauerkraut. The latter cut gracefully through the decadent lobster sauce that formed a silky, almost foamy moat around the central stack of meat. Strawberry soufflé with bacon ice cream was the final act; the gently salty, lardy-tasting quenelle seasoned the soufflé surprisingly well, and the slight tartness of the pineberries and strasberry (those are what you get by crossing strawberries with pineapple and raspberry respectively, just FYI) zipped right through it. If relinquishing complete control of your meal at a restaurant would unnerve you, just think of the whole affair as a chilled out dinner party (only with the kind of culinary display you wouldn’t dream of from one of your mates). Sit back, enjoy the stream of confident, contemporary dishes – which also whisper of a great sense of humour – and just trust him on this one, yeah? Menu Gordon Jones, 2 Wellsway, Bath BA2 3AQ; 01225 480871; menugordonjones.co.uk
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EXQUISITE VIEWS • EXCELLENT FOOD • ACOUSTIC MUSIC NIGHTS
SPECIAL CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR MENU AVAILABLE. BOOK NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT.
DRINKS
Look out for our special drinks offer on beers, spirits and selected cocktails from noon to 6pm, Monday to Saturday.
MEDITERRANEAN FLAVOURS
Exciting changes to our menu to bring the flavours and dishes of the Mediterranean to you. The menu will be enriched with influences from across the med and include heart-warming dishes such as Ossobuco and Moussaka to flavoursome seafood marianara and many more.
FUNCTION ROOM
With wonderful views across the Avon River and Bathampton meadows we have a large room available for hire. Whether it’s a birthday, wedding or Christmas Party we can cater for all your needs. Capacity: 30-50 sitting down dinner, or 70 for a buffet.
Award winning neighbourhood cafe bringing quality food and drink to the Easton manor. Now offering a wide selection of wine and beer to take away!
Open: Monday - Tuesday 8am - 5pm | Wednesday - Friday 8am - 7pm Saturday 9am - 5pm |Sunday 10am - 5pm
12 High Street, Bristol BS5 6DL. Tel: 0117 951 4524. f a No12Easton
D N A R IN A W BO O D EN IL M W GA
BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN CRAFT BEER & COCKTAILS
For great Christmas value
On the riverside, Taunton 01823 252466 | info@eatthebird.co.uk x eatthebird a tw_eatthebird
• Woolley Park (Bath) free range turkeys, geese and ducks • Copas organic and free range turkeys • Usk Vale boneless turkey crowns stuffed to order Gift vouchers • Set boxes Molesworths of Henleaze 101 Henleaze Road, Bristol, BS9 4JP
Molesworths of Frampton 147 Church Road, Frampton Cotterell, Bristol, BS36 2JX
0117 962 1095
01454 777337
www.henleazebutchers.co.uk
Situated in the renowned Spike Island, we are the sister café to the much loved Folk House Café and offer a wonderful setting for everyone. 133 Cumberland Road Bristol BS1 6UX spikeislandcafe.co.uk 0117 954 4030
LOCAL, ORGANIC, SUSTAINABLE, ETHICAL, DELICIOUS. We also cater for evening events, wedding receptions, birthday parties, supper clubs. Call now for more information. 40a Park Street, Bristol, BS1 5JG folkhousecafe.co.uk 0117 908 5035
(NEIGHBOURHOOD GEMS)
OTIRA NEW ZEALAND-INSPIRED AND BRISTOLRELEVANT, THIS SECOND VENUE FROM THE SHOP 3 BISTRO TEAM SHOULDN’T HAVE TAKEN JESSICA CARTER SO LONG TO VISIT...
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hen it comes to life outside work, I’m one of those bafflingly inefficient people who constantly feels busy, but doesn’t actually always have reason to be so. This extends into my gastronomic activities. I’m often eating out, and at great places too (not an intentional brag, there), but I don’t tend to switch off, relax the ol’ shoulders and concentrate fully on what I’m doing. Whether it’s because I’m dashing out to eat after finding my fridge empty; it’s T minus four minutes until a mate’s birthday meal right over the other side of the city; or I’m thinking about the early start I have the next day and wondering if I can make it home by 10, I often eat without pausing. I should stipulate, that doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the food – very much the opposite – just that I’m not very good at hanging out in Presentville while I’m tucking in. Before you start wondering if I need a hug, I’d best get to my point. When I visited Otira recently, it became apparent that New
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Zealand-born Stephen Gilchrist and Devonian Kathryn Curtis have created here a wonderful little den in which to hole up and dodge all forms of chaos – mental or literal – for a couple of hours. Named after a town near where Stephen grew up, the restaurant’s Kiwi influence is clear in everything from the thoughtfully put together dishes to the toilets. (Yep, I said toilets: the walls there are covered in forest print, while the song of the native tui bird plays
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over the speakers.) The dining room, meanwhile, is pared back and rustic, with neutral tones, bare walls, wooden dressers and soft music playing. Here, there are three options on the menu (its adjoining wine and tapas bar, Chandos Social, has its own offering): two courses for £29, three for £37, or a five-course ‘trust the chef’ affair for £45. (If we’ve learnt anything about each other by now, loyal reader, it’s that I dislike making menu decisions and you dislike me repeating that fact in these pages each month – so I’ll cut to the chase and tell you I had the latter.) Sourdough was first, lightly charred and served with a small quenelle of soft beurre noisette, which had lovely dark golden flecks and tasted nutty and caramelised. At this point the sun was just about still up, and shone through the bay-windowed façade, catching the polished glassware and silver cutlery on the wooden tables, laid with linen napkins and glowing candles. ‘Head-to-toe pork’ bon-bons were seen off before the starter proper arrived, named ‘tidal rock pool by nanna’s house’, inspired by the coastline where Stephen played as a little ’un. Kathryn – who heads up front of house – poured over dashi at the table, providing a savoury pool for the plump, firm mussels, tiny mushrooms, ribbons of seaweed and delicate sprigs of fennel tops to bathe in. Earthy flavours mingled with those of the sea, while waves of umami and pepperiness broke over my tongue intermittently. To match was a mouth-cleansing white wine, super soft but with a gentle floral kick. Next, Scottish ceps were joined by lardo, cobnuts, sweet parsnip and confidently fiery, refreshingly pokey rye beer mustard – the idea of the whole compilation, with its soft and crunchy textures, based on the forest floor. Aged short rib of beef – with a dark, crisp crust and flaking centre – was served next, with confit ox tongue that, as you can probably already feel in your own mouth, melted into rich nothingness. My Capetonian companion, who grew up on offal, couldn’t get enough of it, his eight-year-old-self resurfacing with delight. Predessert was blackcurrant leaf and hokey pokey ice cream – light in texture and sweet with vanilla – which gave way to a confident chocolate finale. The good stuff was paired with barbecued beetroot and candied cocoa nibs, for an earthly and smoky pud that wasn’t reliant on the sweet, nor afraid of the savoury. Otira is a super-likeable neighbourhood eatery, refined but relaxed, and I genuinely left in high spirits, intent on making more time for dinners like these. Otira, 5-7 Chandos Road, Bristol BS6 6PG; 0117 973 3669; otira.co.uk
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( C O M M U N I T Y- O W N E D P U B S )
THE PACKHORSE CLOSED FOR YEARS AND IN DANGER OF BECOMING OFFICE SPACE, THIS HISTORIC PUB WAS SAVED BY THE COMMUNITY; JESSICA CARTER VISITS TO SEE WHAT THE NEW COLLECTIVE OF OWNERS HAS DONE WITH IT...
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ix months ago, the South Stoke locals got their pub back, after six years of it being closed. See, in 2012 the pub company that owned it sold up – and not to any of the pub landlords who wanted to continue running it as a watering hole, but to a developer, which intended to turn it into flats and office space. Needless to say, that did not go down well. With the sale completed and the doors permanently closed, a handful of locals set about rallying the rest of the community to support their campaign to save the pub. Said community – and more besides – came up trumps. With an army of locals involved, as well as the council and even national press, the new owner was eventually convinced to sell and, after a good three years of campaigning, enough money was pledged by members of the public to buy the pub back. That was in 2016, though – a lot of work needed to be done on this 400-year-old building (which had suffered a good few years of neglect by this point) to bring it back to life. Thanks in no small part to the hard graft of volunteers, the reopening took place in March, with the number of investors having reached 430. Now, a rustic, pared-back interior shows off the history and character of the pub, and original features – like a huge stone fireplace – have been recovered and restored. Downstairs is the bar and two relaxed dining and drinking areas, and up a winding staircase are two more dining rooms where the kitchen once was. The head chef here is Dan Vosper – formerly of Lucknam Park and The Methuen Arms – and his menus reflect both the traditional pub surroundings and his culinary pedigree. Hearty but refined main meals like roast chicken with chorizo and mash, and classic tartiflette, join well-done pub favourites like burgers, fish and chips, and sausage and mash.
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Perching in the garden (the sun had come out, and for all we knew it would be the last we’d see of it this year), we hungrily watched our starters being walked across the lawn. There were hunks of ciderglazed pork cheek (£7) resting on white beans with medjool dates – the slow-cooked meat agreeably falling into flakes at the mere sight of a fork – and a leek and parmesan tart (£7) made with rich, flaky puff pastry and crowned with a golden-yolked fried egg. My ‘open ravioli’ (£14) saw sheets of silky, well-cooked pasta rippled among roasted cauliflower – which had been cooked long enough to caramelise slightly around the edges, but whipped out of the oven in time to retain the right amount of bite – and cavolo nero leaves. Cherry tomato halves gave little bursts of sweetness among the mildly bitter leaves and subtly salty parmesan. A nice, thoughtful idea, although I might have welcomed a bit more contrast in the way of colour and texture. The roast duck breast (£20) was nicely pink and super tender; it arrived sliced and resting on a bed of butterbean and pancetta cassoulet. This is the stuff autumnal days were made for; the cassoulet was rich and smoky – comforting while still having a refined edge – and was topped with deep green cavolo nero leaves. Great stuff. The sun disappeared along with our clean plates, and we moved inside to finish up with pud. A rich chocolate brownie (£7) was lifted by a dark and fruity cherry purée and silky pistachio ice cream, while the lemon and almond polenta cake (£6) was a lighter end to the meal, topped with soft roast peach and sat alongside a quenelle of anise and mint cream, peppered with frozen raspberries. This is an endearing village pub, and a surprisingly short drive – we’re talking 15 minutes – from central Bath. You can tell how glad everyone is to have it back, too; the team seem genuinely invested and a good few locals were making the most of the place on the outof-season Thursday lunchtime we visited. To them, we bet the last six years felt like a ruddy lifetime. The Packhorse, Old School Hill, South Stoke, Bath BA2 7DU; 01225 830300; packhorsebath.co.uk
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L I T T L E
B L A C K
B O O K
Eddie TwitChett
FOUNDER OF ROUND HILL ROASTERY, EDDIE SURE KNOWS WHERE TO HEAD FOR GREAT LOCAL FOOD AND DRINK...
SOMETHING SWEET? I know they have a regular stand at Bristol Street Food Market and Bath Artisan Market in Queen Square, but wherever you see the sign for Pippin Donuts you must buy them. WITH THE FAMILY? Park Farm in Kelston is home to The Bath Soft Cheese Co and possibly the best cheese toasty in the West Country. We love to walk here over Kelston Round Hill, and there is a play park to keep the whole family entertained. Make sure to ask for some milk take home with you – it is really special. WITH FRIENDS? Bar Buvette in Bristol is possibly my favourite place to eat and drink. It has a fantastic selection of wine and the small plates are stunning. When they close, you can even buy wine to take home! SUNDAY LUNCH? Marlborough Tavern, outside in the sun, if the weather allows. This summer has been totally dreamy – just like the roasts are!
FELICITY MILLWARD
GROCERY SHOP? Bath Farmers’ Market on Saturdays. Round Hill started out selling coffee at this market, and a weekly trip to get fresh veg, fish and meat promises lots of cooking inspiration. WINE MERCHANT? Sam and Angus from Wolf Wine are great – I love their attitude and, in Bath at least, it really is the only place to buy natural wine. They always have a good recommendation. HIDDEN GEM? Head out to Frome and check out Rye Bakery. Their bread, pastry and pizzas are to die for, and their local ethos, combined with the restored chapel setting, really is unique. CRACKING CURRY? Not so traditional but, honestly, some of the best curries I have had have been at Beyond the Kale. It usually has curry as a hot special; make sure to ask the team, as they change all the time. BLINDING BURGER? Three Brothers Burgers in Bristol never disappoints. Juicy burgers on a boat and a great selection of craft beer. Happy days. ON THE HIT LIST? Menu Gordon Jones. I have only heard great things, but I haven’t had the chance to make it yet. Gordon, I am coming for you... ON A BUDGET? Like most in the know in Bath, it has to be Chai Walla, every time.
COMFORT FOOD? Choosing comfort food is hard, but not as hard as making your ice cream selection at Swoon. Make sure you get a loyalty card – you will be coming back.
roundhillroastery.com
BELTING BREKKIE? I have a bit of a sweet tooth, so pastries from the Thoughtful Bakery and a coffee does it for me, every time. BEST BREW? If we’re talking coffee, it has to be Full Court Press. I love that they use a variety of roasters, so it’s an excellent place to discover new coffees. I also adore seeing the owner, Mat, as we go way back. QUICK PINT? The Chequers. Even though it’s more of a restaurant, this has always been a great place to meet with friends after a long week.
Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book...
CHEEKY COCKTAIL? A Negroni at The Dark Horse. It’s always perfect, and the second is even better. POSH NOSH? The Ethicurean is modern, seasonal and fresh. A delight every time. Make time to walk around the grounds, too.
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Bath Farmers’ Market, Bath BA1 1JB; bathfarmersmarket.co.uk Wolf Wine, Bath BA1 1JB; wolfwine.co.uk Pippin Donuts; pippindoughnuts.co.uk Bath Soft Cheese Co, Bath BA1 9AG; parkfarm.co.uk Bar Buvette, Bristol BS1 1RG; barbuvette.co.uk Marlborough Tavern, Bath BA1 2LY; marlborough-tavern.com Swoon, Bath and Bristol; swoononaspoon.co.uk Thoughtful Bakery, Bath BA1 1HG; thoughtfulbakery.co.uk Full Court Press, Bristol BS1 2EJ; fcp.coffee The Chequers, Bath BA1 2QA; thechequersbath.com The Dark Horse, Bath BA1 2AB; darkhorsebar.co.uk The Ethicurean, Wrington BS40 5SA; theethicurean.com Rye Bakery, Frome BA11 3BZ; rye-bakery.com Beyond the Kale, Bath BA1 2DR; facebook.com/beyondthekalebath Three Brothers Burgers, Bristol BS1 4SB; threebrothersburgers.co.uk Menu Gordon Jones, Bath BA2 3AQ; menugordonjones.co.uk Chai Walla, Bath BA1 2AN; facebook.com/chaiwallabath
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