( KO O K Y K I TC H E N S )
THE CAULDRON THIS UNIQUE RESTAURANT TURNS THREE VERY SOON, AND JESSICA CARTER HOPES IT HAS MANY MORE BIRTHDAYS IN ITS ECLECTIC NEIGHBOURHOOD
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hefs have a notoriously tough gig. The hours. The budgets. The heat. The physical demands. Nevertheless, Henry Eldon decided that it wasn’t quite tricky enough, knocking up praise-worthy food every night for a dining room full of fussy punters using a conventional kitchen. Nah. Instead – when he opened his own gaff, fresh from a role as exec chef at Cowshed – he decided he’d forego a couple of pretty imperative ingredients that most professionals cook with every single day. Like, gas and electric. Uniquely, the equipment in the open kitchen here is powered purely by charcoal and logs. From your table you may well be able to spot flames licking the undersides of cauldrons, and the glowing heart of a large wood-fired oven. Have a proper nose and you’ll even spot an old Victorian stove.
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