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NEEDS FOR ALL YOUR THIRST- QUENCHING
A little slice of
foodie heaven
BATH & BRISTOL NO. 86 MARCh 2019
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MARCH 2019
TEA
IT’s MY ROUND! BRILLIANT BARs (AND WHAT TO DRINK THERE )
BaKING a dIffeReNCe
wITh GReAT BRITISh BaKe Off’s
BRIOny wiLLiams
GET STUFFED! 6 TIP-TOP RECIPES
How long does Chinese tea take to brew? Oolong time!
FROM OUR FAVOURITE COOKs
OCK YoU wILL ILL R ThE GOOD OLd CUPPa MaKES a speCiaL dRinKs IssUe
SPLaSh IN OUR
WE’VE GOT ThaT GLaSS haLf FULL FeeLING!
AP! B MIN D THE WHERE TO GET YOUR
TEA OF TRANQUILITY
URGER FIX B ThE
TReNd ZONe SIPS TO SWIG ThIS SPRING
PLUS! LA GUINGUETTE LE VIGNOBLE
CAsTLE FARM THE GEORGE IN N
TEA (TO FEEL GOOD) THE FOOD AND drink landscape is constantly changing. Restaurant menus are reinvented, home cooks’ interests shift and ingredients ebb and flow in and out of the spotlight. This means that Crumbs is constantly changing, too. We’ve always intended to reflect, as closely as possible, the character and attitude of the local food and drink scene in these pages. So, the beady-eyed among you might notice that we’re always tweaking and refining, adding and taking away to evolve, issue by issue, along with what’s happening out on the ground. This mission has led us to introduce an exciting new section to the mag this issue. We’ve always covered drinks, but with the ever-growing number of local producers (of coffee, wine, spirits, beer, cider, juices – the list goes on), exciting bars and drink professionals, we felt that this topic was more than varied and exciting enough to warrant it having a dedicated home. So, What Sup? is where you’ll find all your news on bar openings, new products and general industry goings-on, as well as thirst-quenching recipes, interviews with pros, events, round-ups and bar reviews. To mark this special issue, then, we decided to give it a suitably sippable Hero Ingredient – and a big-league one, at that. Here in the UK, we drink 165 million cups of tea every single day, the leaves we use having descended from wild trees that grew more than 50 million years ago in a huge ‛tea jungle’ in Asia (I found that out in Rob and Michelle Comins’ new book, which I talk to Michelle about on p43). There are plenty more tea facts where they came from too, so best put the kettle on and settle in, hey?
Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk Cover teapot from Stokes Croft China
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7 t h – 2 8 t h Fe b r u a r y
Au s t r a l i a n
ICON S www.greatwesternwine.co.uk | 01225 322810 | Wells Road, Bath, BA2 3AP
ISSUE 86 MARCH 2019 EDITOR
JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR
MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk
TABLE OF CONTENTs NO.86 MARCH 2019
ONLINE EDITOR
DAN IZZARD dan.izzard@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR
TREVOR GILHAM ADVERTISING MANAGER
KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER
ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE
NATALIE BRERETON natalie.brereton@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION DESIGNER
GEMMA SCRINE gemma.scrine@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE
JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk
STARTERS 08 HERO INGREDIENT Tea-licious 12 OPENINGS ETC What’s new in food? 18 SIX PACK Great indie bottle shops CHEF! 26 Sausage and chorizo casserole, by Jack Paffett 29 Satay noodles, by Anna Shepherd 30 Chai tea crème caramel, by Nick Hutchings 32 Chocolate orange cake, by Briony Williams
KITCHEN ARMOURY 36 THE WANT LIST Tea party glam WHAT SUP? 42 DRIP FEED The latest from the drinks industry 48 RAISE THE BAR Drink recommendations from across Bath and Bristol, from the pros
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW 01225 475800 mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month we celebrated Bristol Spirit’s birthday with a Fleetwood Mac ’n’ cheese party, tried Woky Ko: Kauto’s brand new ramen, and visited the guys at Wriggle to secure one of their fancy new bamboo lunchboxes
ADDITIONAL RECIPES
10 Earl Grey ice cream, by Freddy Bird 22 OK beef, by Kwoklyn Wan
MAINS 61 BURGER AND BETTER A look at Bristol’s beefy burger scene AFTERS 74 Castle Farm 77 The George Inn 80 La Guinguette PLUS! 82 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Actor Tom England on his fave foodie haunts
Lose the tour guide. Rip your map up. Take a back street. Silver Compass is a company based near Bath providing high quality Food & Drink focused holidays. We are also cruise specialists, which is a wonderful way to experience the food and drink of many different destinations without ever unpacking a bag.
This month we take a focus on a few of the experiences you can have on a 9 night Italian journey with luxury cruise line Azamara. Ancient art, the most UNESCO World Heritage sites, and, according to locals, the best food on Earth—Italy has it all! • You can discover the flavours of Venice on a culinary journey that features an intimate tour of a local market and wine tasting led by Azamara’s Executive Chef and Sommelier. • In Syracuse you’re able to meet local culinary aficionado, Fiona, at her home near the port for a hands-on cooking lesson that’ll teach you to prepare authentic Sicilian cuisine. • On the Amalfi Coast take the opportunity to sample rare Italian wines and savour rich local cheeses at the renowned “Quattro Passi” restaurant overlooking the rocky cliffs and blue waters of Sorrento Bay. To find out more about this and other cruises please call Silver Compass on 01225 744992, and take advantage of a special offer of onboard credit to the value of $200 if booking an Azamara cruise through Silver Compass before March 31st.
Discover amazing new cruise destinations... 01225 744 992 | info@silvercompass.co.uk | www.silvercompass.co.uk
START E Rs INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES
23 February
HOUSE OF VEG
This new vegan food event promises market stalls, talks, workshops and street food all under one roof – the Pennywell Project’s roof, to be precise. It’s an all-day event, running until 10pm, with bars and live music, and tickets are £4; houseofveg.co.uk
27 February
SPANISH WINE DINNER
Pata Negra is hosting a special tapas feast with matching wines. Our very own wine columnist Andy Clarke and winemaker Harry Hunt of Tierra Hermosa will be there to talk about the carefully chosen Spanish sips, too. Tickets are £45 – check out the website; patanegrabristol.com
28 February
RICHARD BERTINET AT TOPPING AND COMPANY
EdUCaTIONaL EaTING 007
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9 March
GLOUCESTER ROAD INTERNATIONAL FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL
This famous stretch of indie shops and restaurants will be even more buzzing than usual, with traders offering special menus, tasters and general frivolity. Expect food from all over the globe – Britain to Brazil, Poland to Pakistan; great-bristol.uk
P HOTO : J E A N CA Z A L S
THERE ARE PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES IN BATH AND BRISTOL TO STUFF YOUR FACE AND DO A LEARN THIS MONTH...
Bath’s famous baker will be talking all about his new book Crumb: show the dough who’s boss, which is a lesson in making all kinds of breads and bakes, from classic sourdough to cardamom buns. Tickets are £25 and include a copy of the book; toppingbooks.co.uk
S T A R T E R S
Tea was heavily taxed, though, and remained a luxury item – to be served at weddings and such – until 1785, when the tax was abandoned in an attempt to eliminate rampant smuggling, which it did. With tea now untaxed, and its popularity soaring at home, the early 1800s saw Britain start growing vast quantities of the Chinese small leaf stuff in India, in a successful attempt to meet demand and break China’s virtual tea monopoly. Darjeeling was initially the most successful of the Indian teas but soon had a real rival in Assam, while endless new varieties were created by crossbreeding imported Chinese plants with those already growing in India. Few Indians themselves actually drunk tea until the 1950s – how things have changed! – but the export industry became huge. These days China produces and drinks the most tea, India next, but when you start looking at things by head of population the picture’s very different: Morocco and Russia are right up there, England drinks yet more and the Irish are even keener. Top of the heap though – and by miles – is Turkey, where they can’t get enough of the stuff.
WHERE WOULD EASTENDERS (HECK, ANY BRITISH FICTION) BE WITHOUT – AT THE MOMENT OF ULTIMATE CRISIS – RESCUE IN THE FORM OF A NICE CUP OF TEA?
W
hat’s the world’s most popular drink? Well yes, it’s water, of course. But second to that? We’re talking tea, which we guzzle more of than all of the coffee, soft drinks and booze in the world combined. In the 007 books, though, James Bond rails against tea – “I hate it,” he says. “It’s mud.” As with so much else culinary, creator Ian Fleming was opinionated – and a bit weird. (Avocado with French dressing for pud? James orders it twice!) For a more sensible approach to tea, instead look to China, where they’ve been enjoying it for 5,000 years, initially in the borderlands where southwestern China, north Burma and Tibet meet. Over the centuries the Chinese spread it to countries nearby, which is how – many years later – we came across it. Of course, we’ve more than made up for lost time since. The first Europeans to enjoy tea were probably Portuguese explorers, who found it in Japan in 1560 and brought it home. French and Dutch high society were the first to really get into it, though, with the Dutch East India Company making all the early running transporting tea halfway around the world. The Dutch borrowed a word for it from the Min Chinese, and we – in turn – borrowed ‘tea’ from them. (The chief alternative Chinese word for it – ‘cha’, from the Mandarin – arrived independently through Hong Kong and India, and is still alive in British slang.) Because it’s so old, we know little about the early years of tea drinking, though it was probably initially used as a medicinal herb, designed to
keep you awake; only later would it become something people enjoyed for simple pleasure and relaxation. Over the millennia, assorted wild species both hybridised and diverged from each other to create the building blocks of most modern varieties; it’s estimated, for instance, that Indian and Chinese Assam tea diverged some 2,800 years ago. The mythical Chinese deity Shennong – a sort of farmer god, also credited with the axe, the well, and the less enduring practice of preserving seeds in boiled horse urine – is said to be behind the idea of drinking it, though it’s perhaps more realistic to credit the Shang Dynasty of the second millennium BC and, especially, the much later golden age of the Tang Dynasty. These guys traded extensively, spreading tea to Japan, Korea, Vietnam and around. In the early days, tea would often be steamed as little cakes, or – if drunk – pan-fried and dried first, to create green tea. The more familiar black teas – like regular British tea – were a later development, going through additional processes to become fully oxidised and changing colour as they do so. It’s this that really caught on internationally, and especially in the West. Following the Dutch, English merchants were importing what they then called ‘chaa’ or ‘chaw’ by the early 1600s, and London coffee houses were selling it by the middle of the century, when – as in France a little earlier – drinking tea took off amongst the rich and fashionable. The black and green varieties were running neckand-neck for popularity until around 1720 when the black started to pull away, sweet-toothed Brits loving the way it tasted with milk and sugar.
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But why is tea so universally and enduringly popular? Well, it’s one of the simplest ever recipes, for one thing – just pour boiling water over the cured leaves of a small evergreen shrub. (Think how easy it is to boil a kettle and dunk a teabag for a perfectly acceptable cuppa, compared with the palaver surrounding a decent coffee.) But more important than that, even, is that there’s real magic to it. Think of what tea means: a moment of pause in even the most hectic of days; a quick and easy way to feel rejuvenated, refreshed and reinvigorated; a magic balm that somehow manages to leave you calm and alert both at once. Over the years, the British have formed a deep and enduring relationship with the stuff. In London, Twinings – still dominant at the medium-posh end of the market – opened the country’s first dedicated tearoom in 1706, and made blends like Earl Grey famous (though arch-rival Jacksons of Piccadilly claim they got there first), while British writers soon started celebrating it. Jane Austen used to personally visit the Twinings warehouse to stock up, and her novels are heaving with tea-drinking scenes, as mothers vet suitors, would-be lovers glance meaningfully at each other, and rivals swap veiled threats over a freshly-brewed pot. (Arch-rival coffee gets mentioned in these books too, of course, but rarely gets much love: “No coffee, I thank you,” says the chatty Miss Bates in Emma. “A little tea, if you please.”) Elsewhere, George Orwell wrote essays on it, dismissing Chinese tea (“one does not feel wiser, braver or optimistic after drinking it”) in favour of stronger Indian or Ceylonese varieties. “One strong cup of tea is better than twenty weak ones,” he said. The Anglo-American Henry James describes the ceremony of afternoon tea as “an eternity of pleasure” at the start of The Portrait of a Lady, while the drink crops up endlessly in the work of Charles Dickens and the Brontë sisters too, though it’s Lewis Carroll’s absurd, delightful parody of an English tea party – everyone
chattering away amiably, no-one making much sense – that perhaps sticks longest in the mind, even if parched Alice never actually gets a cup. These days there are hundreds of types of tea, classified in all sorts different ways: big leaf or small leaf, Chinese or Indian, and of different colours (depending on how they’ve been treated and oxidised), from the best-known black and green varieties to white, yellow and others. And then there are all the different regions, teas with added flavours (ginger, mint, vanilla) and – especially popular in the West – blends. Some, such as hearty black teas like the Assams, are usually drunk with milk, but there’s no universal agreement on this: some Chinese do and some don’t, for instance. And there’s even less agreement over whether to add milk to the cup before or after the tea itself, with keen proponents of both sounding rather like committed jamfirst or cream-first scone enthusiasts. Different temperatures of water, and even the different heights from which you pour it into the cup, are said to suit different teas and tastes too. Though it’s chiefly a drink, you can also cook with tea, just as you might with wine or beer, using it to add sweet, smoky, woody, grassy, perfumed or herbal notes to many a dish, but particularly cakes, biscuits and puddings. Green tea ice cream and teasmoked duck are well-known, but consider adding it to smoothies or soups, too. Matcha tea works well as a vanilla substitute in cookies, or you could use loose leaf tea to infuse milk or cream sauces to serve with pasta or rice; beef or pork can benefit from a tea rub, paired with usual suspects like salt or sugar (smoky lapsang souchong works nicely); and tea mixes well with unsalted butter, like herbs do. Lightly brewed tea even makes a solid alternative to stock when cooking rice or quinoa. Tea is now taken seriously for its nutritional qualities, but it wasn’t always so; lacking carbohydrates, proteins, calories, fats or obvious nutrients (though there’s a little manganese and vitamin K in there), tea was long considered little more than flavoured water. But everything changed in the early ’90s, when tea’s antioxidant qualities were suddenly recognised and the positive reports started coming thick and fast. Drinking tea kept you young, protected your heart and blood vessels, helped prevent strokes and some cancers – and all through the antioxidants known as flavonoids. And there’s more, for tea rehydrates as well as water does, and its combination of caffeine and theanine actually helps you switch off distractions and get on with the job in hand. (The caffeine’s effects are mellowed by the theanine, see, so you don’t get the jolt coffee gives you, but rather a smoother, gentler reviving feeling.) And that, ultimately, is the joy of tea. It’s good for us physically but mentally too – for it encourages us to slow down and take a breather. Sharing tea is such a pleasantly simple and snail-paced ritual – it’s one reason why hot water taps are the enemy, as waiting for the kettle to boil is part of the experience – that gives you time to talk, share problems, download worries, or simply catch up. The reason James Bond didn’t like tea? Would it be harsh to suggest that it might have been because he didn’t actually have any friends?
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R E C I P E
FREDDY BIRD JUST LOVES A GOOD OLD CUPPA, BUT THIS IS HIS FAVOURITE WAY TO ENJOY TEA’S FLAVOUR IN HIS FOOD
TEA ISN’T SOMETHING I usually cook with. I drink tons of the stuff (especially since I have been trying to cut down on my ludicrous levels of coffee consumption), and have an entire cupboard dedicated to tea in every form. Although, my go to is still a He-Man coloured cup of Yorkshire! I initially struggled with ideas for this month’s recipe, playing about with lapsangglazed pork belly and smoking salmon with various teas, but they all fell down when it came to result-versus-effort. This ice cream recipe, though, requires no faffing and the end result is great – especially when you add a seasonal touch of pungent orange zest to the mix...
EARL GREY ICE CREAM SERVES 8-10 500ml full fat milk 500ml cream 2 heaped tsp loose leaf Earl Grey 3 large oranges, zest only 8 egg yolks (the richest you can get your hands on – I use Burford Browns) 220g caster sugar small pinch of Maldon salt
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1 Heat the milk and cream in a pan, until just below boiling. Add the tea and orange zest and remove from the heat. Leave to infuse for an hour or so, regularly tasting it until you are happy with the flavour, bearing in mind it will be weaker when frozen. 2 Strain the milk and cream and reheat. 3 In a bowl or stand mixer, whisk the yolks, sugar and salt (the salt should be noticeable but still very subtle) until pale. 4 Add the hot milk and cream. Stir and return all of the mixture to the pan. Stir continuously over a low heat until the mixture has evenly reached 82C. Then strain through a fine sieve and cool. 5 Once cool and you’re almost ready to eat, churn in an ice cream maker. The joy of ice cream to eat it freshly churned – there’s nothing better – so do it as last-minute as possible. The salt and sugar content should help prevent it from setting too hard.
Openings etc S T A R T E R S
CORN STARS
Taco ’bout popularity: Mexican food and drink are still on the upward climb, and there’s soon to be another local drinking and dining experience designed specifically to help us enjoy it all. Masa and Mezcal is yet another idea from Imogen and Kieran Waite (also behind Bravas, Bakers and Co and others), and was always the grand plan for the spot that Corner 77 has been occupying since May last year. The team have spent time in Mexico learning how to make tortillas the traditional way, by grinding corn and using the nixtamalization process to produce authentic corn dough masa – something they’ll be doing themselves in the restaurant. You can expect smaller dishes for grazing as well as larger mains, and an extensive selection of mezcal to wash it down. Look for the launch this spring. instagram.com/masa_and_mezcal
PARK LIFE
Tom Kerridge’s Pub in the Park is returning to Bath in June, we’re told. Last year saw Kerridge, Angela Hartnett, Josh Eggleton, Emily Watkins and Stephen Terry among the culinary lineup, bringing pop-up versions of their celebrated gastropubs to the city’s Victoria Park. They served snacks in the sunshine alongside drinks from several bars, while the sounds of live music from Tom Odell, Razorlight and Sophie Ellis Bextor drifted over the lawns. This year, Daniel Clifford will be getting in on the action, serving up food from his two-Michelin-starred kitchen at Midsummer House. The demo tent will see all these chefs cooking in front of audiences, while the shopping village offers an array of produce and kitchenware. Tickets are on sale now and start at £30 for adults. pubintheparkuk.com
USE YOUR NOODLE
Contemporary Japanese pop up outfit Tsukemono is back in the kitchen, this time at Bristol Spirit in Redfield. The new menu is all about the noodles, and has dishes featuring both buckwheat soba and thick wheat udon. You’ll also find kaeshi to be the foundation of many bowls – a traditional Japanese soup or sauce that you might well not have come across on local menus until now. Dishes include curry udon (with either pork or seitan) and oyako soba, which sees the broth topped with griddled chicken, soy egg and narutomaki. There are starters and desserts on the go, too. The Tsukemono team will be sticking around here until the end of March. tsukemono.co.uk
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Q& A
aSK yOUR waITER
FORK TO FIELD
LOOK, IT’S TOM HENSON, GENERAL MANAGER OF WOKY KO: KAUTO
Food businesses across Bristol have been signing up to Vegware’s new local composting collection service. Close the Loop picks up used compostable coffee cups, cutlery and containers from cafés, takeaways, schools and universities and turns it into compost for use in West Country fields. UWE has already jumped aboard, glad to have found a way to make sure its used food packaging is being put to work in a beneficial way. Café Matariki at Finzels Reach is also in on the action as part of the Composting Collective, which is a network of places where customers can drop off their compostable food and drink containers for collection. vegware.com
How long have you worked here? Since September last year. What attracted you to Woky Ko? The food. My obsession with Asian cooking has dragged me halfway around the world more than once, for months at a time. And what have you learnt most about since being here? Stirfrying – I mean, properly, seriously, really authentically stir-frying – is flipping hard. How long have you been in hospitality for? About 12 years, in at least a part-time capacity. (Sounds like ages when I say it out loud!) What do you like most about working in this field? It does give me a good excuse for staying in bed late on my days off... What’s the best thing about your current job? The team is great; we have a nice, tight little unit, which is always a pleasure. That, as well as Tian’s fried rice.
BY GEORGE!
And the most challenging part? To be honest, we have it really great. I’d say the thing we struggle with most is just the way we send food out. The food comes when it’s ready, and some people just aren’t used to that.
The swanky £6.3 million extension to Bristol’s St George’s concert hall is almost complete and – as we were glad to see on a recent trip – the developments have brought with them a new café-bar. Light and airy, this space may well become your new favourite spot to grab a coffee and cake or fill up on a properly decent lunch. The kitchen is headed up by French-born Oakan Brousse, and starts serving from 10am with a selection of brekkies. The lunchtime menu lists five main dishes (all around the £7.50 mark), such as a rosti of homemade ricotta and pickled red onion, and roast cauliflower with three-cheese sauce. Not your usual lunch-break fare, no. There are sarnies served until 5pm, too. stgeorgesbristol.co.uk
Tell us about one of your lessobvious responsibilities here. Basically, our front door is the devil – it’s pretty hard to shut – so I need to constantly try to keep the cold out while not cursing so loud that table seven can hear me...
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Which dish on the current menu are you most excited about? The Woky Ko pork belly ramen. It’s been a labour of love for Larkin for months now. My WhatsApp was on the receiving end of at least 2,000 words on his ideas over that time – so I couldn’t help become invested in it, really. It’s also delicious. What makes it so special? Ramen is very much the sum of its parts. We decided on a specific style of broth (there are many; we chose shio) and then built the dish from the ground up. I could go on for days about this, really. The whole dish was taken apart and scrutinised, in order to end up with something we’re really happy with. And to drink with it? Beer. I’d say that about most things, but ramen and beer are pretty perfect for one another. Of the beers we have, I’d recommend Asahi. Give us one great reason to visit Woky Ko: Kauto. If you come between 4.30pm and 6.30pm on a weekday and buy the ramen I’ve just prattled on about (or any of the other three) we’ll give you a free drink. Nuff said. Where have you visited locally where the customer service was excellent? The team and I nip to Hyde and Co sometimes, and the guys there are a class act. A recent mission of theirs to perfect the humble Irish coffee was received particularly well by us – much to the detriment of our already pretty shaky sleeping habits. wokyko.com
S T A R T E R S
ThE
INSTA
HIP SHOPS
FEEd
Abdul’s late father founded the famous Sweet Mart 40 years ago
BRISTOL SweeT MaRT
@kkiliszek shoots the feed @yogabrunchclub
WHAT: GLOBAL GROCERIES AND DELI FOOD WHERE: ST MARK’S ROAD, BRISTOL BS5 6JH WHEN: MON-SAT 9AM-7PM; SUN 11AM-5PM
t
his St Mark’s Road stalwart has been part of the Easton furniture since 1978 and, to second-generation owner Abdul Ismail, is very much entwined with the community, having grown and evolved right alongside the culturally rich neighbourhood. “I’ve seen babies grow up here,” he tells us, as we pass a mother and toddler. “People that came in as children have grown up and come in with their own babies now.” Indeed, this whole outfit is very family orientated; 15 members of Abdul’s own family now help run the shop, and they all sit down at breakfast each morning to discuss that day’s business. “It was my father’s thinking that the best way to have a meeting is over food,” he says. “You don’t argue when there’s food!” Recognised as a locally significant figure (check out the plaque on St Mark’s Road), Abdul’s father, Mr Kassam Majothi, founded the shop after arriving here from Uganda, having been forced to leave his thriving business behind and bring his family to a Somerset refugee camp. When he found Easton, he knew it was a great place to build a new enterprise. He took over a small shop for a rent of £12 a month and filled it with Indian snacks and sweets. People soon started requesting ingredients, vegetables and spices, and the business thrived. Over the last four decades, the store has spilled out into several additional buildings (Abdul points out the spot where the original
shop was contained – a tiny fraction of the now-sprawling space) and stocks over 15,000 items. Within those, about 20 cultural regions are repped, from Poland to Ethiopia, Somalia to the Mediterranean, and, of course, all the regions of India. There are more than 100 kinds of chilli sauce, nearly 150 teas and 56 different coconut products, as well as about 60 homemade items in the deli – think spiced vegetable fritters, Gujarati samosas, Punjabi fish and tubs of curries – all cooked from scratch in the kitchens upstairs. As with most grocery shops, vegan products have become big news here – expect tofu, tempeh and plant-based cheese, for instance – as have gluten-free goods. Both familiar and unusual fruits and vegetables, such as snake beans, Egyptian spinach, prickly pears and okra, are superpopular too, as well as the huge range of spices and extensive collection of pulses. The recent delivery of fresh chickpeas (Abdul tells us to simply dry-fry them for delicious results) had been so popular that they’d already sold out – and been reordered. Thanks to such a diverse and remarkably extensive range of products, it’s a general rule of thumb that if you’re struggling to find an ingredient, Sweet Mart is your best bet. Now, with Abdul semi-retired and the next generation of the family taking the business forward, it looks set to build on its 40-year history – and see many more toddlers turn into fully grown Sweet Mart customers. sweetmart.co.uk
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@watsondiane is all about that root veg
@sophieh_photo is giving us gyoza envy YOUR PIC COULD BE HERE! Just use #CrumbsSnaps on your foodie Insta posts and we might just print one of yours next issue
Join us for a laid-back celebration, with food from award-winning pubs including Tom Kerridge’s The Hand & Flowers and Josh Eggleton’s The Pony & Trap, and live music from Basement Jaxx (DJ Set), Texas and Will Young, plus many more. Tickets on sale now.
Not all chefs and music acts appear at all events, visit the website for up to date line-up.
S T A R T E R S
In the Larder
GULP! 2
3
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TO MARK THE LAUNCH OF OUR NEW DRINKS SECTION, WE’VE BEEN TRYING OUT SOME INTERESTING SIPS THIS MONTH... 1 Conker Spirit Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur, £30/70cl Pardon the expression, but cold brew is hot right now. The complex, fruity flavour that’s brought out by a slow steeping process has proved a big hit with coffee fans. This 25% ABV tipple is made with real coffee beans for a surprisingly smooth result. Use it to create a mean Espresso Martini, or find that it’s pleasantly sippable on the rocks. Just remember that each shot has roughly the same caffeine hit as an espresso! Available at Harvey Nichols in Bristol and online; conkerspirit.co.uk 2 Pukka Herbs Tea, £2.99/20 teabags Bristol-born tea and wellbeing biz Pukka Herbs is all too aware of the effects these dark first months of the year can have on us, and has timed the release of its latest blend accordingly. Called Feel New, the tea was blended by medical herbalist, and original founder of Pukka, Sebastian Pole, and contains organic, body-loving spices like aniseed, fennel, cardamom and turmeric, which aim to help support digestion and liver function. Golden yellow in colour, the brew is light and tastes savoury but fresh, with a gentle aniseed base note. Find it at Wild Oats in Bristol and Seasons in Bath; pukkaherbs.com 3 Karma Cola, £1.69/330ml Cola, but not as you know it. Certified organic by the Soil Association and fiercely Fairtrade, there are no nasties or unpronounceables among the ingredients here. It’s totally natural, made with real spices and citrus oils, and contains a whole lot less sugar than your average can o’ pop. What’s more, this outfit has made it their mission to see that the people who grow these cola nuts in Sierra Leone benefit properly from their efforts. Great taste, great ingredients and great ethics. Find it at Waitrose in Bath and Bristol, and online at Ocado; karmacola.co.uk 4 Kettlesmith Small Belgian Wheat Beer, £3/330ml This low ABV (2.3%) beer is the newest in the Bradford-on-Avon microbrewery’s white label series of ever-changing, experimental beers, but is set to become part of the brewery’s core offering as of March, when it’ll be renamed Streamline. Great news, far as we’re concerned. Light and refreshing with decent body for such a wee alcohol percentage, it’ll hit the spot and leave you with no foggy head the next day. Available at Beer Craft in Bath and direct from the brewery; kettlesmithbrewing.com 5 Extract Dr Strangelove Espresso, £7.65/250g This single-origin coffee from the well-loved St Werburghs roastery changes up each year, with different beans from a different estate. It always maintains the same core qualities, though: a light fruitiness and overarching sweetness make it an accessible and versatile crowd-pleaser. This most recent Colombian version has just been released, and we love its bright and fresh character. Available online from the roastery (with free delivery!); extractcoffee.co.uk
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THE HOP POLE, BATH pub, garden & kitchen
QUOTE ‘CRUMBS’ FOR 10% OFF YOUR FOOD BILL IN FEBRUARY & MARCH. T’s & C’s apply
FREE FUNCTION ROOM FOR HIRE OPENING HOURS Drinks Mon–Thu: 12–11pm | Fri–Sat: 12–11:30pm | Sun: 12–9pm Food
Mon–Fri: 5:30pm–8:30pm Sat: 12–3pm, 5pm–9pm | Sun: 12–6pm
CONTACT 7 Albion buildings, Upper Bristol Road, Bath, BA1 3AR 01225 446 327 | info@thehoppolebath.co.uk
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www.thehoppolebath.co.uk
Six Pack
GOT BOTTLE
WANT TO UP THE GAME INSIDE YOUR DRINKS CABINET? THESE SPECIALIST, INDEPENDENT BOTTLE SHOPS CAN HELP YOU IN SUCH NOBLE ENDEAVOURS...
CORKS OF COTHAM
There are three Corks sites in Bristol, but the shop on Cotham Hill is the original, having been founded all the way back in 2000. At that time, the supermarket was where most people shopped for their booze and, as you can imagine, the selection was far from exciting. Corks was Dominic Harman and Rachel Higgens’ answer; they sought out small, specialist suppliers – loads of which are still on the books to this day – to put together a collection of quality drinks that they knew weren’t otherwise getting under our noses in the UK. They started off by introducing punters to lesser-known grape varieties and regions – natural and biodynamic wines have always been a particular interest of the pair’s – and you can now find a large, weekly changing collection of craft beers here too. The broad scope and constant evolution of this range is reflective of the exciting strides being made in the production industry. Good-quality spirits are also to be found on the shelves at this welcoming, unpretentious gaff, of course – keep your eye on the growing selection of mezcal, and look out for the shop’s first ever Australian whisky. corksofbristol.com
PALMER STREET BOTTLE
This indie shop – set in Frome’s quirky St Catherine’s Quarter – focuses on beer, wine, spirit and coffee (and even has an expertly stocked cheese counter, so you can pick up some quality fromage to nibble on alongside yer sips). When it comes to booze, you’ll find varieties from abroad, all over the UK and neighbouring breweries. It surely doesn’t get much more local, though, than the shop’s very own IPA craft beer, Bear Cub, which is brewed in collaboration with local outfits such as New Bristol Brewery and Cocksure. As we all start to pay more attention than ever to the amount of packaging we throw away, it’s great to see the retail industry helping us to cut down – and Palmer Street Bottle is very much in on that action. Its refill station allows punters to fill up old wine bottles or growlers with any of the wines and craft beers that they have on tap. And don’t feel the need to grab and go; this place doubles up as a bar, so why not stick around and order a drink and something from the food menu? palmerstbottle.co.uk
TWO BELLY
Six months ago a rather novel bottle shop and bar opened on Whiteladies Road in Bristol. Here, an extensive range of beers sits alongside a fully stocked counter of deliciously pungent dairy. Beer and cheese are the best of pals, after all, and if you want to put their relationship to the test, feel free to quiz the team about matching them up. The spectrum of brews here ranges from IPAs and pales to Belgium classics and locally made thirst quenchers. Right now, owners Dom Pulsford and Lara Issa are particularly excited by a new offering from Somerset-based Yonder Brewing’s seasonal Loop series. The base is brewed and aged in oak barrels and different blends are created throughout the year using in-season fruits and wild ingredients. The zesty apple and rose number is well worth a try, especially with the St Cera – a rich, funky washed-rind cow’s cheese. There’s also a solid line up of regional cider (another good buddy of cheese), with a focus on low intervention creations, and a small, carefully picked selection of natural and biodynamic wines from the UK and Europe. twobelly.co.uk
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S T A R T E R S
INDEPENDENT SPIRIT
Celebrating its sixth birthday right about now, this Bath shop was founded by two pro bartenders. Thanks not only to this background but also their unwavering booze geekery, the team are as helpful and interesting as you could hope for. Their aim is to make great quality drinks accessible enough to be enjoyed at home – not just in the best bars – and also give people the chance to sample and learn about new and unfamiliar sips, with regular tasting events. You’ll find an extensive craft beer selection in this cosy little spot, as well as an entire gin wall (the shop has just been shortlisted for Gin Magazine’s Icons of Gin awards 2019, as it goes), but the specialism here is definitely whisky – especially varieties from less familiar, small and independent producers and bottlers. The eclectic range of drinks is constantly evolving; keep your eye out for a Star Warsinspired whisky-barrel aged imperial stout, which is currently winging its way onto the shelves, as well as some pretty special new gins by Belgin. independentspiritofbath.co.uk
GRAPE AND GRIND
The name of the game at this characterful little bottle shop is French wine from small-scale makers and lesser-spotted spirits. If you’re into your cocktails – drinking and mixing – then the collection of bar kit, books, bitters, liqueurs and even antique glassware is well worth checking out too, as is the schedule of tastings and gin blending sessions. Weber and Tring’s was founded in 2013 by Sarah Tring, who wanted a place to go for specialist bar paraphernalia and advice. So, she started one. If you’ve sampled a corker of a concoction on a Friday night, then, and later want to mix it up in the comfort of your own gaff, this is the place to stock up on the necessaries and ask for advice. After something really niche? There’s even an ordering service that can usually see your bottle in stock by the next working day. No request too weird. (NB: there probably is, but it’s worth an ask.) Speaking of the intriguing, and led by the surge in popularity of Mexican drinks tequila and mezcal, the team recently ordered in a brand new product called Mezky: a barrel-aged agave distillate finished in Islay Scotch whisky barrels in Bristol. We can’t wait to give it a whirl. weberandtrings.co.uk
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WEBER AND TRING’S
Gloucester Road is lauded, internationally, for its range of great independent businesses – of which this resident is a perfect example. When it opened in 2010, the intention was to offer a more intriguing selection of drinks than could be found at chain stores, and couple it with approachable price tags. Shifting from a sole focus on wine, the team added locally brewed beers and a whole spectrum of spirits, reaching well beyond gin, cognac and whisky. Speaking of which, world whisky is something that these guys are anticipating a growing interest in – think varieties from Japan, Sweden, the US and, again, Australia. They’ve also been seeing a gradual – but exciting – shift away from Prosecco in favour of top-notch Cava, although it’s unlikely the switch will happen dramatically, they say. Indeed, it’s likely to be a slow process. Gin is still hogging the spotlight here – and the Grape and Grind guys have just created their very own. Collaborating with Psychopomp, they wanted something that would tie in with the shop’s wine focus, so it features aromatics such as floral grapes, quince, bay leaf and lemon thyme. grapeandgrind.co.uk
Join us for a ‘Keepers’ Afternoon Tea £15.50 per person Add Keeper’s Bristol Gin & Tonic £19.50 Pre order required a minimum 12 hours in advance.
Menu: Macarons, Mini white chocolate & raspberry delices Mini Chocolate, rum & pistachio delices Scones with jam & clotted cream Mini blackberry, raspberry & blueberry financier Selection of sandwiches English tea or coffee Vegan options are also available!
For Afternoon Tea bookings please call 01179 291 645, or book directly through our Facebook page by searching “Keepers Kitchen & Bar”. Mercure Bristol Grand Hotel, Broad Street, Bristol, BS1 2EL
S T A R T E R S
THERE IS MANY A NICHE HANKERING TO BE SATISFIED AMONGST THIS MONTH’S COLLECTION OF RECIPE BOOKS...
CHINESE TAKEAWAY COOKBOOK
PICKLE JUICE
Kwoklyn Wan (Quadrille, £15) Third generation chef, martial arts expert and brother of TV’s Gok Wan, Kwoklyn spent much of his childhood in the kitchen of his dad’s Cantonese restaurant in Leicester (his grandfather settled there in the 1960s, opening the city’s first Chinese eatery). Now he’s doing for Chinese food what Dan Toombs (The Curry Guy) did for Indian, by sharing the culinary secrets of one of Britain’s most popular takeaways, so we can recreate our favourite Anglo-Asian dishes at home. Starters like sweet Chinese barbecue ribs, crispy aromatic duck with pancakes and chicken noodle soup precede classic mains like sweet and sour chicken balls and crispy chilli beef, and sides like special fried rice and chow mein. There’s no need for fancy kit, and most ingredients are readily available – you probably already have some in. This is the stuff Friday night contentment is made of.
Florence Cherruault (Hardie Grant, £12.99) Cherruault runs Hackney-based The Pickle House, which creates pickle juices and Bloody Mary mixes for bars and restaurants. She also turns out to be an engaging guide to the delights of these products, which might not sound too appealing but actually have huge health and flavour benefits. Her world of picklebacks (vinegary shots drunk like tequila) and shrubs (sweeter versions, mixing fruit and sugar with the vinegar) is certainly intriguing, especially when you learn just what a rich umami depth of flavour pickle juice adds to all sorts of drinks. Florence shows how easy it is to make a good selection of basic pickle juices and shrubs, then explains the skill set needed to develop your own before offering up numerous recipes for Bloody Marys and other cocktails, both vodka-laden and virgin, and often very, very dirty indeed.
J E S S ICA CA RTE R
MATT BIELBY
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CHETNA’S HEALTHY INDIAN
Chetna Makan (Mitchell Beazley, £20) Don’t be fooled by the title; this is no diet book, and there are no calorie counts or nutritional stats amongst the pages. This is simply, explains Chetna, fresh, everyday Indian food that her mother would serve to the family each evening. It just happens to be full of the good stuff – and rather achievable too, with no super-expensive or unfamiliar ingredients. The wholesome, hearty, colourful dishes – think tomato and fenugreek curry with new potatoes, spicy chickpeas with sea bass, and masala roast chicken – are sure to spice up family mealtimes. There are plenty of curry, bread and rice recipes too, and some of the dishes have several different incarnations – the tadka dal, for instance, can be taken in three different directions. Thoughtfully chosen and beautifully presented, these meals might well become staples in your house. JESSICA CARTER
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S T A R T E R S
HOW TO BE GLUTEN FREE AND KEEP YOUR FRIENDS
Recipes by Anna Barnett (Quadrille, £12.99) This slightly frustrating book, companion to a similarly named vegan title, boasts slick design and plenty of rather lovely and well-styled food photographs, but is slightly characterless nonetheless. Blame the combination of bare-bones recipes – no background or context is given to any dish – and occasional bursts of jaunty linking text produced by unnamed in-house staffers: it all gives the book a slightly impersonal feel. That said, there are no complaints about the wide-ranging dishes, which cover everything from green potato hash with fried eggs and Parmesan to roasted garlic, ricotta and asparagus tarts; sticky pineapple monkfish with pickled carrots to rose panna cotta with burnt orange. There are great tips on establishing and maintaining a glutenfree lifestyle too, from ingredients to be wary of to “keeping your love of the kitchen alive.” Handsome and useful, then, but ultimately more of a tool than a delight. M AT T BIE L BY
NATIONAL TRUST COMFORT FOOD
By Clive Goudercourt and The National Trust Cafés (National Trust Books, £20) This newest release from The National Trust charity illustrates the fact that hearty comfort food isn’t just for winter. Hankerings can just as easily arrive on a warm summer’s afternoon in the garden, the evening of a long and tiring day, or after getting caught off-guard in an April shower. Whatever the occasion – or, indeed, time of year – this book may well contain a bit of what you fancy. We’ve already cooked up the favourite recipe of The National Trust’s development chef Clive Goudercourt – fragrant leek and sweet potato soup – and loved it so much we’ve added it to our winter soup rotation. We also have eyes on the game lasagne and, for the impending warmer seasons, goat’s cheese gnocchi with summer veg, Vietnamese chicken salad, and Powis Castle Café’s gin and tonic cake. Speaking of which, puds are a-plenty here; expect gingerbread treacle tart, rice pudding brulée and banana and cardamom bake, among others.
From Chinese Takeaway Cookbook, by Kwoklyn Wan (Quadrille, £15); photography by Sam Folan
OK BEEF SERVES 4
I HAVE MANY fond memories of this dish from my youth. One of my closest friends lived a few streets away from our restaurant and without fail he would order OK Beef and fried rice every night, which meant we always had time for a quick catch up. Although this recipe was developed in the UK for western tastebuds, it is enjoyed throughout the world and has become a firm favourite on the menu in many Cantonese restaurants. groundnut oil, for deep-frying 1 egg, beaten 340g beef fillet, thinly sliced 100g cornflour 1 onion, thinly sliced For the OK sauce: 2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp Chinese five spice 250ml water 125ml tomato ketchup 4 tbsp brown sauce 100g white or brown sugar 1½ tsp cornflour, mixed with 2 tbsp water
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1 Place all the sauce ingredients (except the cornflour mix) in a wok and heat gently, stirring until it starts to boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes. Pour in the cornflour mixture, stirring until thickened, then remove from the heat and set to one side. 2 Pour enough oil to deep-fry the beef into a large saucepan or wok and heat to 180C/350F. 3 In a large bowl, massage the egg into the beef slices. Tip the cornflour onto a large plate and coat the beef strips a few at a time, making sure each piece is covered and shaking off any excess. 4 Carefully lower the coated beef in batches into the hot oil and deep-fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the beef is golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a wire rack or a plate lined with kitchen paper. 5 Heat another ½ tbsp of the oil in a non-stick wok and fry the onion until tender, then add the fried beef and the sauce. Mix thoroughly to coat each piece, then transfer to a serving plate and serve.
BATH’S BEST BUTCHER
Larkhall Butchers go above and beyond to get only the best local ingredients. I wouldn't go anywhere else. Giles – Larkhall customer
1 Lambridge Buildings, Bath BA1 6RS 01225 313 987 | info@larkhallbutchers.co.uk larkhallbutchers.co.uk
CHEF!
WHAT AND HOW TTOO MAKE DIRECT FROM T MAKE IT – OF OUR FAVHOE KITCHENS FOODIES URITE
T HIGHLIGHTS
26 SAUSAGERPTIANRG TY
A COMFO OFF CASSEROLE TO SEE THE CHILLS
29 GOING NUTS
TRY THIS VEGAN MID-WEEKER OF SPEEDY SATAY NOODLES
30 CHAI THERE! TEA-INFUSED CRÈME CARAMEL, COMING RIGHT UP
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We’re trying to get you baking for a great cause, and have a special recipe from a GBBO star to help convince you
C H E F !
SAUSAGE AND CHORIZO CASSEROLE SERVES 4-6 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 red pepper, finely chopped 2 sticks celery, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 250g chorizo 6 pork sausages 2 tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp cumin 1 tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped (plus extra for garnish) 125ml white wine 2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes 250ml chicken stock 1 x 400g tin butter beans, drained crusty bread, to serve (optional)
JaCK aLL
1 In a large, heavy-based pan, heat the olive oil on a medium-high heat and fry the chopped onion for 5 minutes, until it starts to soften. 2 Add the red pepper, celery and garlic to the pan and allow to cook for another 5 minutes. 3 Cut the chorizo and sausages into 2cm slices, and add them. Fry for a further 5 minutes, or until the sausages and chorizo start to colour. 4 Add the paprika, cumin and thyme to the pan, stirring for 1-2 minutes, or until the aromas are released and the contents of the pan are coated. 5 Pour in the white wine, using a spoon to scrape any residue off the sides of the pan, and allow to simmer for 2 minutes. 6 Now add the chopped tomatoes and chicken stock and stir well. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. 7 Add the butter beans and cook until the mixture reduces to your desired consistency. 8 Serve with crusty bread and sprinkle any spare chopped thyme over the top.
JACK PAFFETT IS GOING FOR ALLOUT COMFORT WITH THIS RICH AND RATHER TASTY STEW... Clifton café 99 Queens has just celebrated its first birthday – hip, hip! – with head chef Jack having been there since day one. His menus of brunches, lunches and sweet treats aim to scratch that culinary itch – whatever you’ve been craving. Everything here is, of course, homemade by the team, and the offering changes seasonally. This onepot wonder has been a winter hit with customers. “Our Spanish chorizo sausage casserole was a firm favourite last year,” he says. “It’s hearty, warm and tastes delicious with a nice bit of crusty ciabatta. Perfect for the cold afternoons and evenings.”
99 Queens, 99 Queens Road, Bristol BS8 1LW; 0117 317 9806; facebook.com/99queens
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We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome. PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION
Serving up an ever-changing menu of eight plates, this is a place where the little things matter.
Open Tuesday to Sunday Dinner only from 5:30pm 3 North Parade Passage, Bath BA1 1NX 01225 724111 – eightinbath.co.uk
Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB • 01761 470408 Email: info@kingwilliaminn.co.uk • f T @kingwilliam84 www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk
C H E F !
EMLI BENDIXEN
VEGAN
BROC PARTY
ANNA SHEPHERD MAKES THE MOST OF WINTER’S LARDER IN THIS QUICK AND EASY VEGAN DISH Anna is a recipe developer and food stylist, and holds quarterly vegetarian supper clubs – called Eats Roots and Leaves – at her flat in Bristol. This recipe is a great example of her seasonally led, meat-free cooking. “Purple sprouting broccoli is one of the few leafy vegetables that grow in the UK during the ‘hungry gap’ between winter and spring when the winter crops have ended but the new season’s vegetables aren’t ready to harvest,” she says. “It has a robust, mineral flavour that pairs well with Asian food, such as soy, chilli and garlic. This recipe is for a quick peanut satay sauce with speedy noodles and crunchy breadcrumbs that can be on the table in under 20 minutes.”
PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI SATAY NOODLES SERVES 2
For the peanut sauce: 4 tbsp peanut butter 2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp maple syrup 1 lime, juice only ¼ tsp chilli flakes 1 garlic clove, crushed For the noodles: 200g wide rice noodles 2 tbsp sesame oil 250g purple sprouting broccoli, trimmed into 1cm-wide spears 1 red chilli, finely sliced 15g breadcrumbs 1 tbsp black sesame seeds handful mint leaves
1 Combine all the ingredients for the peanut sauce together and loosen with 3-4 tbsp water until the mix is a few shades paler and has a pourable consistency. Set aside. 2 Cook the noodles according to packet instructions then drain and toss with 1 tbsp sesame oil. Keep warm. 3 Steam the broccoli over a pan of boiling water for 4-6 minutes – when it’s ready the tip of a sharp knife should pass through the stem easily. 4 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a small frying pan. Add the chilli, breadcrumbs and sesame seeds and stir over a medium heat for 3 minutes until the breadcrumbs turn golden brown and crispy. 5 Lift the noodles onto a platter, top with the mint, broccoli and breadcrumbs and drizzle over some of the peanut sauce, with the rest in a bowl at the table.
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Anna’s next supper club is on 16 March. Check out the website for info and tickets; annashepherdfood.com
C H E F !
CHAI TEA CRÈME CARAMEL WITH APPLE COMPOTE SERVES 6
170g caster sugar 4 cardamom pods 4 whole cloves 2 cinnamon sticks ½ tsp nutmeg, grated 150ml milk 330ml double cream 4 Earl Grey teabags 4 whole eggs, plus 1 yolk For the compote: 4 Granny Smith apples handful raisins (or dates), chopped 100g caster sugar 50g butter
ChaI haRd
NICK HUTCHINGS TAKES INSPIRATION FROM THIS MONTH’S HERO INGREDIENT TO CREATE A WARMING SPICED PUD...
Nick has been head chef at lovable boozer The Bank Tavern for two years. The popular watering hole is known for, among other things, its hearty lunches. “We like to play around with some old classic recipes as well as experimenting with less-familiar ingredients, quite often using offal,” Nick says. “Every few months we do a couple of special six-course tasting dinners, which give us even more excuses to have a bit of fun in the kitchen. “Crème caramel is something that seems to divide opinion around a dining table, mainly because everyone’s first image is of one from a plastic pot sold in the supermarket. This twist on the classic will hopefully change people’s minds on this simple dessert!” You’ll need six ceramic moulds to make this recipe, and everything can be made a day ahead of serving and kept in the fridge until needed.
The Bank Tavern, 8 John Street, Bristol BS1 2HR; banktavern.com
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1 Pour 50g of the caster sugar into a heavy-based frying pan and place over a medium heat. Allow it to melt, without stirring (if it starts to burn around the edges, shake the pan to redistribute). Once it has turned into a deep amber caramel, carefully pour some into each mould – just enough to cover the base – and leave to cool. Keep any remaining caramel in the pan, as it can be warmed and used for the compote. 2 Preheat the oven to 160C/310F/gas mark 2. 3 Add the spices, milk and cream to a saucepan and heat gently. Simmer for a few minutes, making sure it doesn’t boil, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 5-10 minutes (the longer you leave it, the stronger the flavour will be). Put the teabags into a mug and add 100ml boiling water and leave to infuse. 4 Whisk the eggs, yolk and remaining caster sugar together. When the tea and cream mixes have infused, strain them together through a fine sieve into a saucepan and place on a low heat until just hot – then remove from the heat. Slowly add the egg mix, whisking continuously to make a smooth custard. 5 Pour the custard into the moulds – about 100ml in each – then place them into a deep baking tray. Pour in hot water from the kettle until it reaches about half way up the moulds. Place into the oven for about 30 minutes – they’re set when they wobble just slightly. Once set, leave to cool. 6 Peel and dice the apples into ½cm cubes and place in the caramel saucepan with the raisins, sugar and butter, then gently heat until soft (about 5 minutes) to make the compote. If it’s too dry, add a splash of water. 7 To remove the crème caramels from the moulds, run a knife around the edges then place into a bowl of hot water for about a minute. Remove, then place a plate or bowl over the top of the mould, flip it over and give it a little shake. The mould should lift off easily. 8 Spoon some apple compote (warm or cold) onto the side of each plate next to the crème caramel and serve. We garnish with crushed shortbread, candied orange peel and red vein sorrel.
BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN CRAFT BEER & COCKTAILS On the riverside, Taunton 01823 252466 | info@eatthebird.co.uk x eatthebird a tw_eatthebird Welcome to Mantra, an Indian Restaurant in the heart of Bath, that specialises in serving progressive Indian food. Mantra is a family run authentic Indian restaurant. Our dishes are healthily packed with flavour, crunch, punch and zing offering plenty of choice to vegetarians and vegans.Inspired by seasonal ingredients, our food contains only the freshest produce prepared in a way that captures the amazing diversity of India’s regional cuisines and childhood street food memories. 5, Bladud Buildings, The Paragon, Bath BA1 5LS Tel: 01225 446 332 Email: info@mantraofbath.co.uk | www.mantraofbath.co.uk
ThRee TIeRS! CHECK OUT LOCAL GREAT BRITISH BAKE OFF STAR BRIONY MAY WILLIAMS’ CHOCOLATY TREAT OF A RECIPE
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CHOCOLATE ORANGE CAKE SERVES 12 For the cake: 600g self-raising flour 750g golden caster sugar 1 tsp salt 150g cocoa powder 2 tsp baking powder 250ml vegetable oil 4 medium eggs 1 tsp orange extract 1 orange, zest only 450ml whole milk 3 tsp instant coffee 450ml boiling water For the chocolate ganache: 200ml double cream 200g dark chocolate 1 tsp orange extract To decorate: chocolate orange shapes chocolate orange bars chocolate orange biscuits Recognise this face? Briony graced our screens last year within that famous Bake Off tent, going on to make the semi-finals. And if that’s not where you know her from, then it’s very possible you’ve just seen her around town – she’s from Bristol, don’t cha know. Either way, Briony is back in your life right now, as she’s been championing a really worthy culinary cause of late. St Peter’s Hospice’s Ready, Steady, Bake campaign is kicking off this March, and is calling on everyone who loves baking (and/or eating) cake to whip up some delicious creations to offer at bake sales and tea parties to raise funds for the local charity. Briony is very much on board with this cake-fuelled crusade, and has shared her very own recipe for a decadent chocolate orange cake with us, to inspire as many people as possible to get involved. Who knew doing a good deed could taste this good?
For more information on holding a bake sale or tea party in support of St Peter’s Hospice, visit the website; stpetershospice.org/readysteadybake
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1 Pre-heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Grease and line 3 round 8-inch cake tins. 2 Place the flour, sugar, salt, cocoa powder and baking powder in a large bowl and whisk to combine. 3 In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil, eggs, orange extract, orange zest and milk. Mix the coffee with the boiling water. 4 Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and combine. Pour in the coffee mixture and mix well again. 5 Divide the cake batter between the 3 tins and bake for 30-35 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Then remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly in the tins, before tipping out onto cooling racks. 6 When the cakes are cool, use a serrated knife or cake leveller to level the cakes, so they’re flat on the top as well as the bottom. 7 Now make the chocolate ganache. Break up the chocolate in a bowl, and gently heat the cream in a pan until it’s steaming and almost boiling. Pour this over the chocolate and leave for 3 minutes, then stir well. Place in the fridge for 30 minutes, before using an electric whisk to whisk the ganache until pale and thick. 8 To build the cake, place one of the cakes on a plate or board, and spread over a layer of ganache. Repeat with the next 2 cakes. Add ganache to the top and sides, and smooth, then put in the fridge for 15 minutes. 9 Top with chocolate orange goodies and serve.
CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS The AnySharp Twist costs £14.99 and can be found at Lakeland at Bath and Cribbs Causeway; anysharp.com
ShaRp’s PeRIL
MOST OF US FEEL A SMALL PANG OF FEAR WHEN SHARPENING KNIVES, SAYS MATT BIELBY. WHAT IF I SLIP? OR – NEARLY AS BAD – RUIN MY BEST BLADE? ENTER THE ANYSHARP TWIST… What’s that little thing? A letter rack? An incense stick holder? No, silly – it’s a knife sharpener. But you’re right in saying it’s pretty tiny – not much bigger than a tomato, in fact. And because it’s even smaller than it looks in pictures, storing it’s a doddle. And it works, does it? Like a dream. If you’re used to sharpening your kitchen knives the traditional way – working the edge on a stone or steel, slowly grinding away tiny slivers of metal to reintroduce a proper edge – the AnySharp range will be a revelation. Unlike many knife-sharpening gadgets, they’re as
easy to use as they promise, with highly effective tungsten carbide sharpening tools at the optimum 20 degree angle tucked well away inside. Regular AnySharps are impressive pieces of kit, but the sleeker Twist is even better: for the first time it’s capable of effectively sharpening serrated edges too, like you’d get on a breadknife. I suppose you’re going to say it’s quick, an’ all. I totally am. Turns out all you need do is plonk the Twist down on a flat work surface, then turn till the sucker grips firmly. Now lightly pull your knife blade through, perhaps repeating a couple of times.
Bingo, it’s sharpened. Couldn’t be easier, or – since your fingers are nowhere near the action – safer, either. (Just remember to wash your newly sharpened knives immediately afterwards – you don’t want to be eating any tiny metal filings, do you?) Everything in my kitchen is copper coloured, but I’m betting this isn’t… Slave to a trend, aren’t you? And also, as you rightly guessed, somewhat out of luck: the Twist only comes in red, black or cream. But since it’s so quick to use, cheap to buy, uber-safe and should last forever, maybe you could consider compromising…?
THIS MONTH SHARP ATTACK • TEA KEEPER
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The Want List IT’S JUST ABOUT TIME FOR A TEA BREAK, WE RECKON – AND HERE’S HERE THE GEAR FOR THE JOB
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COVeR STaR!
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1 Seashell Teaspoon, £2.95 It’s all about the small touches, and this gold teaspoon is a stylish one. From Fig 1 in Bristol; fig1.co.uk 2 Moroccan Tea Glass, £11 This delicate glass, with its hammered gold effect, calls for a fittingly exotic blend to fill it with. Find it at T2 in Bath; t2tea.com 3 Bristol Floral Teapot, £70 Made in Britain, this bone china teapot is decorated by Bristol artists using vintage transfers. From Stokes Croft China; prscshop.co.uk 4 Abstract Bee Resin Coasters (pair), £25 Dried flowers and real copper flakes are encased in resin to create these unique, handmade coasters. Find them at Casper in Bristol; casperbristol.com 5 Weaver Tea Infuser, £28 A gorgeous copper infuser by Toast, which comes with a handy ceramic holder. Find it in Anthropologie in Bath; anthropologie.com
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WHAT SUP?
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look!!
It’s ou section, der dnew ic to all thingsated suppable
I DRINK, THEREFORE I AM
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hen it comes to cocktails, Jasmine Hamlin, head bartender at Harvey Nichols in Bristol, isn’t afraid to give an old favourite a shake up (ahem). “The Pornstar Martini is a real modern classic, and probably one of the most successful cocktails to have been invented in the 21st century,” she says. “To give this crowd-pleasing blend a Harvey Nichols twist, we have used premium Crystal Head vodka, which is made of four-times-distilled ‘peaches and cream’ corn and then filtered seven times through Herkimer diamonds, which makes the vodka perfectly smooth and creamy. “Using this particular vodka gives a well-balanced finish to the cocktail, as it complements the tartness of the passion fruit. The shot of Harvey Nichols Brut Champagne is also a great addition, as it’s slightly dryer than the traditionally used Prosecco.”
heads!
LIKE THE LOOK OF THIS DECADENT, CHAMPAGNESPIKED TWIST ON A CLASSIC COCKTAIL? THEN HERE’S HOW TO MAKE IT…
CRYSTAL HEAD PORNSTAR MARTINI SERVES 2
50ml Crystal Head vodka 15ml fresh lemon juice 20ml passion fruit purée 10ml passion fruit syrup 5ml vanilla syrup ice cubes ½ passion fruit, to garnish 50ml Champagne (we used Harvey Nichols Brut Champagne) Pour all the the ingredients (apart from the fresh passion fruit and Champagne) into a cocktail shaker, fill with ice cubes and shake for about 10 seconds. Fine strain into a Martini glass or coupe, garnish with the fresh passion fruit and serve with the Champagne in a shot glass on the side.
BEER • COFFEE • WINES • SPIRITS • MORE
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THE DRIP FEED
NEWS, BREWS, BOOKS AND TRENDS
GET YOUR MIX
BREAD OF HEAVEN
When we recently spotted an Instagram post by the Bristol brewery Fierce and Noble of a hoard of discounted bread, we were straight onto them to find out what they were up to. Turns out, they were developing a new pain au chocolat-inspired beer, and wanted to give it that real ‘bready’ taste. It’s estimated that up to 44 percent of bread being sold in the UK ends up in the bin, so these guys wanted to put all that surplus to good use. It’s not just bread that’s going into this brew, either; there’s practically a full continental breakfast being used, with croissants and pain au raisin also on the ingredients list. The new brew has just been launched at the brewery’s Winter Festival, and is available now. fierceandnoble.com
MY LOCAL
Q& A
We’ve recently been leafing through the pages of new mixology book, Make Something Bloody Marvellous, by Faye and Dan Thwaites (the creators of Jam Jar Gin). Focusing on ingredients that can be found in British gardens, hedgerows and countryside, it not only includes recipes for cocktails, but also syrups and gin infusions. Techniques and processes such as heat-aided infusion and osmosis are all covered, and there’s info on handy bits of kit (nothing specialist, happily) and staple ingredients. Learn how to make everything from orange liqueur to pineapple cordial and spiced gin, as well as an array of classic and novel cocktails with this pretty tome. (Lid Publishing, £24.99)
WHERE, PRAY TELL, IS BRISTOL COMEDIAN MARK OLVER’S FAVOURITE WATERING HOLE, AND WHY DOES HE LOVE IT SO? My local is Boca Bar in Paintworks. I’m drinking cranberry and lemonade. I’m quite specific about it, though: it should be one-third cranberry to two-thirds lemonade.
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WORLD RECORDS
Bristol Beer Factory has launched three very special new beers, honoring the city’s strong music culture. The Vinyl Series is made up of three brews, one by the brewery itself, one created in partnership with local DJ Boca 45, and one as a collaboration with Bristol music label Banoffee Pie Records. Oh-so cleverly, the ABVs of these drinks are based on the three vinyl speeds (33, 45 and 78 RPM), so there’s a crisp 3.3 percent Belgian-style table beer, a globally inspired 4.5 percent amber ale and a decadent banoffee-themed 7.8 percent pale ale. The beers will be at the Bristol Beer Factory taproom on North Street – until they run out! bristolbeerfactory.co.uk
And to eat it’s definitely got to be the calzone. You’ll find me sitting away from the hordes! I like a wall. And a radiator in the winter. But also a window. I’m fussy. The crowd is a lovely mix. During the day it often gets quite mum-and-toddler heavy, and in the early evening lots of people come in after work. My best celebrity spot here is Noel Edmonds. We used to film Deal or No Deal in Paintworks and a lot of us would go there after work. Noel joined us once!
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This place’s best assets are the food and the building (it’s gorgeous and lit beautifully), but also the rolling collection of art. If I could steal something from here it’d be the sofas. Big comfy old sofas. Everyone should try Boca Bar because it’s a gorgeous, chilled bar and restaurant in a part of Bristol where you might not expect it to be. But it’s easy to get to on the bus, or by a gentle walk from town. bristol.bocabar.co.uk
Q& A
A SWIFT CUPPA
BAR TOOLS KIT TO UP YOUR DRINKS GAME
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MICHELLE COMINS
K ATH E RIN E DAV IE S
MICHELLE AND HUSBAND ROB OWN LOCAL TEAHOUSE COMINS TEA, AND HAVE JUST WRITTEN A BOOK ON EVERYONE’S FAVOURITE BREW...
stop oxidation; in white tea the heat of the sun is used, creating light, delicate teas, while black teas are left to be fully oxidised. Dark teas such as Puer are traditionally fermented over many years to create their character, although there are modern processes to speed this up.
What first inspired you to go into the tea trade? Through travelling together to India, Sri Lanka, China and Japan, visiting tea gardens and connecting with growers, Rob and I developed an interest that gradually consumed us. We started the business online before opening a teahouse in our family home. The Bath teahouse followed later.
You bake your own oolong, right? Yes. Baking tea is mostly undertaken with oolong teas, but not all oolongs are baked. We acquired a baking unit four years ago from Taiwan, and have been learning since. Traditionally, oolongs are baked by tea masters using bamboo tea bakers over charcoal fires – it takes many years to gain the expertise needed to maintain the temperature of the fire. Each tea has a unique baking programme, which consists of a series of temperature adjustments to bake the tea from the inside out. This process creates another level of flavour in the tea, leading to rich, nutty, roasty profiles.
And what is it about tea that sparks such enthusiasm in you? Tea is a complex drink, yet it can be so simple. At its heart is the ability to connect people, create enjoyment and pleasure, and help people make time in their day – something that seems to be increasingly important in modern life. How many types of tea are there? Six: white, yellow, green, oolong, black and dark. Within each category are thousands of distinct individual teas. Does all tea come from the same plant? Yes, true tea comes from the Camellia sinensis plant. Often the word ‘tea’ is use to describe drinks that should more appropriately be called infusions. Examples such as mint, chamomile, rooibos, mate or fruit originate from different plants. What is done to the leaves of the plant to make them into tea? The processing varies for each type, but key to them all is the control of oxidation. When a leaf is plucked it starts to oxidise (the same process that causes an apple to go brown when you cut it in half), and the more it oxidises the darker it becomes and the bitterer it tastes. Heat is used to
What’s builders’ tea then, exactly? It’s often a blend – up to 15 teas are used to make the replicable flavour. We focus on the individual flavours that come from single-garden offerings, which change from year to year with the varying conditions. Our Golden Tip Assam is what we offer if a customer requests builders’. The majority of people find they don’t need to add any milk or sugar, though – it simply does not need it. What can we expect from your hotoff-the-press book? InTales of the Tea Trade tea is explained not just with facts, but through the stories and experiences of around 60 of our partners in the tea world. These farmers, factory owners, tea professionals and artists all tell their own tales to offer the reader a greater understanding of different aspects of the industry and the plant itself.
Tales of the Tea Trade (Pavillion, £16.99) is released on 4 April 2019
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ag-in-box wine has gained serious momentum of late, with sustainability and waste reduction becoming a focus of savvy consumers. More Wine supplies this minimally packaged vino to food and drink outlets (and domestic customers) all over the region, and offers eco-credits to those who send back their empty bags for reuse. If you’re keen to get in on the bag-in-box action at home, it might be worth investing in one of these dispensers. They’re fully insulated, with space for ice blocks to allow you to keep your wine at just the right temperature, and are, obvs, handily transportable. Did someone say spring camping trip? Wooden dispensing box, £100 from More Wine; morewine.eu
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Sips ahoy!
NEW AND IMPROVED ANGELA MOUNT LOOKS TO THE SHELVES OF GREAT WESTERN WINE TO PREDICT WHAT TRENDS ARE GOING TO BE INFLUENCING OUR DRINKS CABINETS THIS SPRING – AND SHE’S GOT SOME EXCITING RECOMMENDATIONS…
PUT YOUR LIGHTERS UP The vegan wine trend is still snowballing, but it’s far from the only shift I’ve noticed in the world of grape-based refreshments lately. For starters, there’s definitely a move towards lighter, fresher styles – and a curiosity to discover new regions and grape varieties. Greece, one of the oldest kids on the wine block and one of the first producing countries in Europe, is finally getting the recognition it deserves for its ideal growing climate, fantastic grapes and knock-out wines. A new Greek range to be spotted on the shelves of Great Western Wine is KirYianni, and it’s well worth exploring. Finding yourself becoming a bit bored with same-old Sauvignon Blancs? Try the
aromatic and floral Assyrtiko Ktima KirYianni (£12.95), which is a perfectly crisp drink for spring that pairs a treat with fish and seafood. Another lesser-known favourite of mine is the Hungarian Patricius Tokaji Dry Furmint (£12.95), a gloriously heady mingle of fresh peach fruit, wild herbs, bracing acidity and a touch of honey to round it off. Spot on with spicy dishes. Lighter reds are also trending, and a great example is the vibrant, raspberryscented pleasures of Cabernet Franc. This grape is generally grown for its supporting role in classic Bordeaux blends, but is the star of the show when it comes to the Loire Valley’s red wines. Now, it’s also being nurtured in countries like Argentina and Australia, where the style is slightly richer but retains a delicious, red berry freshness
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and silkiness. For classic Loire-style Cabernet Franc, pick up a bottle of the Bourgueil Graviers (£18.75), which gives off beguiling scents of red summer fruit, positively skipping with lightness. This one is an ideal partner to chicken, roast pork and Asian dishes. Ever heard of the Souson grape? No, even I hadn’t until a few years ago. Ring the changes on Spanish red with Souson Ailala Ribeiros do Avia (£13.95) from Galicia, the north-western outpost of the country. This is a lively, cherry- and plumsoaked red with vibrant freshness, which certainly perks up the palate – perfect with the weekend lunch platter of charcuterie and cheese. Let’s not forget about the success of English sparkling wine, which has blossomed into an international
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force to present Champagne with some stiff competition in the quality stakes. Staying relatively close to home, pop the cork on a bottle of Lyme Bay Brut Reserve (£25), produced in nearby Dorset. Tangy, lively, with a savoury, almost sea-salty edge, it’s squeaky clean, refreshing, and perfect with seafood. Sticking with fizz, we’re beginning to see long-time favourite Prosecco move over to create room in the spotlight for Cava. Making a welcome comeback, these bubbles are a world away from the earthy, yeasty styles of old; today’s generation is top notch, made in the same way as Champagne but with local grape varieties. If you’re new to Cava, start with the boldly packaged Franck Massard Mas Saldana Cava Brut Nature (£14.25). It’s elegant, poised, and packed with creamy, citrus, baked apple and hazelnut notes.
RETROSPECTIVES It’s not just the wine world that is seeing a resurgence retro of drinks. The Aperol Spritz and Negroni have been the aperitif success stories of the last few years and, with their herbal, aromatic and tangy flavour profiles, are heralding the rebirth of vermouth. Try the Australian Regal Rogue Bold Red (£18.95), which is bursting with scents of cinnamon, clove and bitter orange, or Regal Rogue Daring Dry (£18.95), with a tangy, citrus and herbdrenched character. As the cocktail craze continues, new pretender tequila is making a bid for stardom. Forget pounding hangovers from the poor-quality shots of the past, as the new wave styles don’t need to be disguised with a sprinkling of salt and a bite of mouth-searing lime. Quality tequila
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is produced entirely from the fermented juice of the agave plant and, as Mexico’s national drink, is made in a cornucopia of styles – from the fresh, bright crystal clear flavours of the young (blanco) Patron Silver Tequila (£47) to the warm and earthy Don Agustin Reposado Tequila (£28), which is rested for up to 11 months in oak barrels, and the single-estate Ocho Anejo Tequila (£47), which is aged for between one and three years in oak or old bourbon casks. The spectrum is vast. But how to drink it? Enjoy the lighter styles with tonic or lime and soda, or switch from vodka to tequila in a Bloody Mary. As for barrel-aged Reposados and Anejos, sip them as you would whisky or rum, swirling the glass to get the most of the rich, spice and oak-laden aromas and flavours. greatwesternwine.co.uk
Family or friends staying? Why not make the visit extra special and stay over at an OHH Pub. Save £10 when you book direct. Just visit www.ohhpubs.co.uk and at the point of reservation use this Promo Code: SAVE10
Tuesday night is Steak night Enjoy a mouth watering steak and homemade chips for just £10. Wash it all down with a fine bottle of House red wine for just £12. Served every Tuesday at all OHH Pubs 5pm - 9.30pm
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The Old House at Home: Near Castle Combe - 01454 218227 The Rose & Crown: Pucklechurch - 0117 329 3181 The Bear and Swan: Chew Magna - 01275 331100 The Rising Sun: Backwell - 01275 462215 The Northey Arms: Box - 01225 742333
www.ohhpubs.co.uk
This page: the atmospheric Milk Thistle Opposite, clockwise: Loose Cannon, Sub 13 and Circo
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W H A T
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POP BARS
WE’VE BEEN QUIZZING TEAMS AT SOME OF OUR LOCAL WATERING HOLES (BOTH WELL-KNOWN STAPLES AND LESS OBVIOUS JOINTS) ABOUT THE FAVOURITE SIPS THEY’RE SERVING UP RIGHT NOW. WE FEEL A BAR CRAWL COMING ON…
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et’s start in Bath, shall we? Sub 13 is a mainstay of the local cocktail scene here, founded 15 years ago by two mates who wanted to bring the quality cocktails you’d find in London to Bath turf. It’s grown to be known as an inclusive kind of bar – as welcoming to parties as seasoned liquor buffs. So, about those drinks. Last year the Pornstar Martini overtook the bar’s renowned Mojito in the popularity stakes for the first time, we’re told. Not your thing? Bar manager Ramsey Keir has a zesty sounding recommendation for this spring that should do the trick: the GC Collins – grapefruit gin and The King’s Ginger liqueur shaken with fresh lemon juice, vanilla syrup and rhubarb bitters. It’s topped with soda in a tall glass, and finished with a stick of rhubarb. Keen. You need not look far for your next drink: neighbouring Circo moved to George Street three years ago from the other end of the city centre, where it forged a name as one of Bath’s go-to indie watering holes. The stylish and chilled-out bar is home to a well-
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trained, creative team, who really understand their booze. This place introduced a specialist rum bar in 2017, reflecting the growing uptake of this tropical spirit, and the collection of bottles has been made good use of by the crew. “It allows us to create interesting and unique drinks,” says manager Julia Maltby. “The current staff favourite is the Bananarama – a blend of Cargo Cult Banana and Plantation Pineapple rums. A customer favorite, though, is our Bouquet Martini, a mix of French vermouth, jasmine and rose gin and elderflower and rose liqueurs.”
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Among the grand Georgian townhouses that line picturesque Great Pulteney Street is Bar 15, found within boutique hotel No.15 Great Pulteney. This chic bar is full of curious touches – the cocktail menu takes the form of a deck of cards, for instance – but despite such attention to style, substance is very much a priority. “We focus on purity of flavour,” says bar manager Ian Harman. “Every cocktail uses high-end ingredients to produce amazing flavours, and is made to enhance and display them in exciting and daring variations.” The Persephone’s Pomegranate (Williams Elegant Gin, elderflower liqueur, pomegranate juice, lemon and soda) is one of the most-loved concoctions here, but there’s a newbie on the block – or should we say deck? – that we have our eye on: the Pisco and Fig Sour, with 1615 Pisco, Bristol Syrup Co Demerara, Briottet fig liqueur, duck egg white and plum bitters. Let’s head over to Bristol now, starting right up the top of Whiteladies Road, at Kinkajou. Housed in the basement space that used to be occupied by the famous Hausbar, this relatively recent addition to the local cocktail scene aims to continue the boozy endeavours of its predecessor, with expertly mixed drinks, a selection of fine spirits and great service. The name? It’s a raccoon-like animal – also known as the honeybear – whose curiosity, social character and nocturnal nature made it a great mascot, the team felt, for their underground, late-night bar. The space was refurbished last year to create a setting that’s refined, relaxing and nods to the kinkajou’s native rainforest home. So, to the drinks: the menu currently lists over 100 cocktails, but the most popular of late has proved to be their signature, Honeybear. This sees Cachaca infused with peanut butter and mixed with pineapple and honey. Follow Whiteladies Road down to the Clifton Triangle, and you’ll come into the vicinity of New York-inspired, speakeasy-style joint Hyde and Co. This place was born 10 years ago now (yes, really) but is still considered one of the city’s best bars, and has become known for its thoughtfully designed concept menus, which read like a story; the current version is entitled Midnight in Paris, and follows a private detective on a Film Noir-style journey. “Our best seller is the King Louie,” says manager and recent winner of Imbibe’s Bartender of the Year award, Dan Bovey. “It’s a twist on the classic Jungle Bird cocktail (rum, lime, pineapple and Campari), and is made with Trois Riviéres Agricole Rhum and passion fruit. “At this time of year, my own drink of choice has to be a classic Irish Coffee. We make ours with Redbreast Lustau – a sherried Irish whiskey – and pair it with Cast Iron by Extract Coffee, then finish with a layer of cream. It’s rich and indulgent.” Down Park Street, towards town, is Hyde and Co’s sister bar, The Milk Thistle. The phrase ‘hidden in plain sight’ springs to mind here: it’s in a big building right on the main road with a large black door – yet you can so easily walk past without noticing. “As a table service bar, we believe in easy-going, high quality service to complement our drinks,” says manager Alex Godfrey. “As we have just launched our new 2019 menu, Meet George, a guest favourite is yet to reveal itself; however, we have a suspicion that Oh! Sentimental One and Taking the Pisco will be popular choices. My own favourite? The Rebel Genius. This reimagined Negroni will take you to Italy on a summer’s day.” Also in the city centre is steampunk-themed cocktail bar The Clockwork Rose, based around a concept that centres on the fictitious Captain Sebastian Commodore. It was opened in September 2017 by Christopher and Danielle Stutt, who are members of the local steampunk community.
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Kinkajou (above) was given a refit last year, and The Milk Thisle (below) has bags of vintage charm
“Each cocktail on our menu is created to represent a different story from the life of the Captain, including the time he foiled a plot to poison the Queen (Pharmaceutical Stimulant) and the time that he took on board a mysterious passenger known only as the Hitchhiker (Pan-Galactic Gargle Blaster),” Chris explains. Guests seem to love the Picnic Society here – a combination of crème de cassis, lemon juice, cranberry juice, aquafaba, and homemade strawberry and basil-infused gin. But, right now,
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Left: The Strawberry Thief Right: To the Moon
Chris is all about his Après-Ski concoction, a simple hot chocolate with Green Chartreuse and cream: “It has a distinctive herbal and minty flavour, and is the perfect drink for the cold winter evenings.” Okay then, beer lovers: your turn. Tucked away at the end of Bristol’s Broad Street is a unique little bar that specialises in Belgian and UK craft brews, The Strawberry Thief. It’s owned by Mike Harris, who saw a gap in the market back in 2016, after a trip abroad. “New York was an epiphany for me. I had seen the booming beer culture in Europe, then saw it through fresh eyes with the American focus on high-end hospitality, and realised there was a gap here,” he says. “There was quality beer being served, but without the service or focus on quality glassware and surroundings.” When it comes to what to drink here, general manager Jacob Evans has your back. “Brugse Zot Blonde has been a firm favourite since we added it to our core draught line up last year. It’s got four different malts, which give it a distinctive big body and sweet malt character, and the unique yeast adds notes of banana and plum. The glassware is equally impressive, with the pint glasses looking like chalices – which often leads to a ripple effect around the bar once one is ordered. “However, the Straffe Hendrik Quadrupel is my current go-to beer for a boozy warmer. Its a rich and intense beer with subtle dried fruits in the background of a complex dark ale. At 11% ABV it’s not one to quaff, but it’s great to sip your way through in a warm, candlelit bar…” With a CV that lists several well-known Bristol bars, past and present (including Hyde and Co and Milk Thistle), Akos Rabi is a real hospitality pro, having studied hotel management before working in high-end restaurants in the US. He eventually opened cocktail bar Loose Cannon at the harbourside in June 2018. It’s not just wellmixed concoctions and decent beers you’ll find here, though; it’s also a space for local artists to display their work, and musicians and DJs to perform. As well as all the classics, these guys like to offer a selection of drinks that’s a bit more off the wall. “Our menu is quite different from the chains around us; we have a few interesting drinks and some crazy garnishes,” says Akos.
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“Our signature menu is all designed and created by us, and every ingredient is prepared in house. Unicorn Tears is our best-seller. and Sugar Tax is my personal recommendation. It’s a twist on an Aperol Spritz – with Irn Bru!” Somewhere you might not head to automatically in search of a decent cocktail is Prince Street Social. Nevertheless, it mixes up some real good ’uns. It was opened three years ago and, as the name suggests, is designed to be as social a venue as possible – the large tables and layout of the space making it great for big groups as well as quiet after-work drinks. (If you love a deal, check out the list of drinks on the two-for-one offer.) “The team love to experiment and try new cocktails,” says manager Dulcie Carey. “Our special for February and March is the Mermaid Spritz, made with blue curacao, triple sec and Prosecco. It’s already proven a favourite for our regulars, as the zesty flavours of the blue drink catch you by surprise! A definite must for anyone who loves a touch of fairytale magic.” Another joint that may not already be on your regular hit list – unless you’re a lucky local, of course – is To the Moon. This friendly bar is secreted away off the main drag of Old Market. Hunt it down, though, and you’ll find a mean range of local beers, quality spirits and cocktails. With the soul of a real community hangout and bags of creative Bristol character, it sees local DJs, musicians, artists and all kinds of performers making use of the space at regular events every Friday and Saturday. But what to sip on while you get entertained? “The Espresso Martini is always popular,” says co-owner Chris, “and we have a couple of twists, such as one with coconut rum, which is very easy to drink! My personal current favourite would be New Bristol Brewery’s The Joy of Sesh; we aim to support local breweries as much as possible, and there are some great options.”
What’s your favourite sip on this patch? Tweet us @crumbsmag, or tag your thirst-quenching Insta posts with #crumbssnaps
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2 1 S T- C E N T U R Y W I N E B A R S
LE VIGNOBLE
THE ADVANCEMENT OF TECHNOLOGY HAS BEEN A BLESSING AND A CURSE – ALTHOUGH DAN IZZARD ONLY SEES IT AS THE FORMER ON HIS TRIP TO THIS COOL BATH BAR...
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hat if I told you there were self-serve machines that you could use with the absolute certainty that you will not have to endure the infuriating call of “unexpected item in bagging area”? What if I also told you they dispense wine? Yes, this technology is real – and you can find it in Bath, at Le Vignoble. This wine bar and merchants in Milsom Place is equipped with state-of-the-art Enomatic dispensers, meaning there are 30 different vinos available by the glass at any one time to help yourself to. The ever-rotating collection of whites, reds, rosés and English creations starts at £1 for a taster measure (and goes up to about £2.50), with large glasses ranging from £4.50 to £20. Each machine stores four bottles of wine and maintains the perfect temperature and bottle pressure to keep them at their very best, serving your sip exactly as it should be enjoyed. To use them, you need to acquire and load a Le Vignoble payment card at the bar – when slotted into the dispenser, it tells you your balance and allows you to select your drink. I went straight in with the 2016 Camel Valley Bacchus Dry. The Bacchus grape is a staple of English vineyards and makes a great alternative for those who automatically reach for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. With such a sizable collection of wines to decide between – not to mention a reminder of how much you’ve spent flashing up on a screen each time you do manage to pick one – there’s pressure to make informed decisions. Handily, there are helpful tasting notes
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on each machine, and the taster measures really come into their own for the non-committal individual (I feel you). While Le Vignoble doesn’t purport to be a restaurant, it would be an awful shame if there wasn’t at least a bit of cheese to soak up that vino. The founders thought the same: a platter of French cheeses, saucisson, cured hams, olives, bread and dips is on offer for £6.50, and you can add a glass of house wine for £3.45 to get yourself probably the most sophisticated meal deal for under a tenner in Bath. From the small plates selection, garlic mushrooms (£9.50) come with an oozing layer of Camembert and cause me to hotfoot it over to the Cotes Du Rhone, clutching my remaining credit. Meanwhile, salty pancetta and sweet cherry chutney join forces on a wooden board of tartines (£9), which are washed down with the rich fruit notes and peppery finish of my red. Le Vignoble does a great job of encouraging you to be a bit adventurous. If you want to revert back to your oh-so-predictable self and order the charcuterie though, go for it. With wine this fine to see it off with, it’d be rude not to. Le Vignoble, Milsom Place, Bath BA1 1BZ; 01225 465907; levignoble.co.uk
CRUMBSMAG.COM
SAMPLE MENU gratinee des halles, crouton, gruyere £7.00 italian chicories, blood orange, burrata £8.00 risotto of dorset crab £9.50 baked camembert, saucisson sec, cornichons
£15.00
delica pumpkin, fried panisse, brown butter, sage
£14.00
sea bream, garlic, anchovy & caper butter
£21.50
rump of devon beef, duck fat chips, peppercorn sauce
£26.00
roast cotswold white chicken, anna potato, bread sauce
£35.00
2 courses £15 ~ 3 courses £19.
Monday – Saturday 12–3pm & 5.30–6.30pm
STARTERS
MAINS
DESSERTS
soup du jour ~ pork rillette ~ smoked cod’s roe
gruyere omelette ~ moules frites ~ chicken & mushroom pie
st emilion au chocolat ~ riz au lait ~ roquefort
Monday – Saturday: Lunch: 12pm – 2.45pm | Dinner: 5.30pm – 9.45pm Sunday: Lunch: 12pm – 4pm | Dinner: closed Glassboat Brasserie, Welsh Back, Bristol BS1 4SB 0117 332 3971 | www.glassboat.co.uk | f a
MA INs TOP CULINARY CAUSES, INSIDER KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIONEERs
HIGHLIGHTS
61 BUN FOR YOUR LIFE
HAVE YOU WORKED YOUR WAY THROUGH ALL THESE BRISTOL BURGERS YET? INCLUDING!
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BEEFY FIXES OUTSIDE OF OUR BURGER CAPITAL
Burger Theory is one of a huge and diverse range of burger gaffs in Bristol...
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One of Bristol’s best and most definitive burger establishments
AMAZING VALUE LUNCH DEALS STUDENT AND NUS DISCOUNTS
Fantastic and hearty burgers – Cooked to order Wagyu Lobster Ostrich Beef Chicken
CLIFTON: 83 Whiteladies Road, Bristol, BS8 2NT | 01173 290887 BEDMINSTER: 240 North Street, Bristol, BS3 1JD | 01173 292790
theburgerjoint.co.uk f a
Our standard beef burgers are made from certified Aberdeen Angus beef and served with freshly baked buns delivered daily from local bakers. We deliver straight to your doorstep until 4am every day!
6 Byron Place, Clifton Triangle, Bristol, BS8 1JT 0117 930 4353 yoyoburger.com
Ranked No1 for burger sales on JustEat.
R e G BUR ! m R aLa
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IS THERE ANYWHERE IN THE UK THAT CAN BEAT BRISTOL’S CURRENT RATIO OF BURGER RESTAURANT PER CAPITA? WE WOULD DO THE RESEARCH BUT, QUITE FRANKLY, THINK OUR TIME WOULD BE BETTER SPENT FILLING UP AT ONE OF THE THE TOP-NOTCH JOINTS IN QUESTION...
M A I N S
S
o: Bristol’s burger game. Off the chain, right? Specialist burger restaurants started to proliferate here a couple of years ago, leaving some dubious as to whether so many of them could even survive in such close quarters. But here we are in 2019, still with a hefty offering across the city, each restaurant having a distinct style. It’s this diversity – which has kept punters’ appetites big and visits plenty – that we’ve been intrigued by this month, so we enlisted the help of a certain aficionado in our quest to guide you through the beefy spectrum. Natalie Brereton – dubbed The Burger Queen by her thousands of social media followers – is a bap-loving member of team Crumbs. She co-founded the Bristol Burger Crawl and even took on (and beat) Josh Eggleton in a burger-off last year (better luck next time, Eggers). She’s given us her top tips, must-tries and reasons to visit for each of these speciality Bristol restaurants. Make sure you stick around to the end, though, as we’ve got some corkers that are outside of the city, too. Ideal if – like the aforementioned beef fiend – you’ve already tried every offering in the city…
ASADO
A set of pretty solid vales form the backbone of this super-popular Colston Street restaurant – although the wood-fired grill is pretty integral, too. The organic dry-aged beef comes from cattle reared in Pilton and butchered by Popti and Beast in St Werburghs, buns are from Bertinet in Bath, and sauces are made in house. These ingredients earn the restaurant some serious gold stars when it comes to not only
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Burger Joint, Hubbox, Burger Theory, Asado, Burger Theory (again), Honest Burgers
ethics but also – imperatively – flavour. Natalie says: Absolutely smokin’ burgers – literally. The asado barbecue gives them a distinctive flavour. I love owner Lucien’s passion for quality and supporting local produce. If you’ve never been, make your first order an El Don; you won’t regret it. Pink, juicy and messy – say no more.
BURGER JOINT
This place promises almost endless combinations through its 12 patties, 24 toppings, 26 sauces, 12 sides and four buns, allowing diners to build unique meals. Whatever you choose, though, you can be sure that the ingredients are of great quality; think buns from Hobbs House and meat from Ruby and White. Natalie says: Sometimes you want to be fussy and this is when Burger Joint comes into its own, with the option to design a meal that’s exactly what you fancy. High praise for being one of Bristol’s longest standing burger restaurants, too.
BURGER THEORY
This place might take burgers seriously – the full brigade of chefs pickle their own cucumbers, make their own sauces and press their own patties of fully traceable ingredients – but they have a great sense of humour. The menu is fun and imaginative and has regularly changing specials. Veggie? You’re taken care of here, with an inventive meat-free selection. Natalie says: While I’m all about a beefy dream, I always order the Prairie Girl here: a juicy fried chicken breast covered in hot sauce and blue cheese dressing. It’s simple, but bloody banging. These guys also host regular bottomless burger clubs (genius!), which are worth checking out.
CHOMP
The very first Chomp burger we tried was from a truck at an Oxfordshire festival in 2014 – and we remember thinking it was one of the finest we’d ever had. So, when the first Chomp restaurant opened in Bristol later that year, we were pretty stoked. Almost five years on, the team are still keeping their heads down, knocking out really decent US-style hamburgers and offering a generous collection
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of bourbon to wash ’em down with. Natalie says: Simple and classic. When the focus on high-quality beef is this stringent, you don’t need to mess around too much with the extras. These burgers are of a high calibre.
HOBGOBLIN
Aged beef rib cap from the renowned Buxton Butchers is the sole ingredient in the handmade patties here. They’re seasoned on the grill with salt, pepper, garlic powder and onion powder, before being topped with house-smoked brisket, pulled pork chilli con carne or haggis – not forgetting the homemade chipotle mayo. Natalie says: This is a cosy Gloucester Road boozer that also happens to offer some beautiful burgz. I always choose the Cow ’n’ Chicken, a beef burger topped with smoked bacon and melted brie – oh, and fried chicken. Epic. There’s another dish that you must order here, too. Three words: dirty, dirty fries.
HONEST BURGERS
This London-born outfit has settled right into its Bristol home, paying homage to the city in its food and drink offering. The special Bristol Burger sees a signature hand-chopped-beef patty teamed with bacon, Westcombe Dairy cheese and curds, shoestring fries, and a Pilton cider gravy. All burgers come with well-seasoned chips as standard, and the house gin is made in collaboration with Psychopomp. Natalie says: I was really impressed when Honest Burgers first opened up in Bristol, and reckon they offer great value for money. My favourite is The Tribute, and I am officially addicted to the rosemary fries.
HUBBOX
Born in Cornwall, this group of South West burger restaurants landed in Bristol in 2017 (having opened several sites in Devon on the way) with an edgy outfit on Whiteladies Road, all exposed red brick and neon signs. The American-style burgers are made from 21-day dry-aged Cornish rare breed beef, while fries are double fried for extra crunch. Natalie says: You can’t visit Hubbox without ordering The Big Kahuna Burger, okay? Think 6oz beef patty, pulled pork, Swiss cheese, barbecue sauce, and onion rings. It’s a real beast.
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Clockwise from top left: Smoke and Glaze, Hubbox, more of Hubbox, Quay Street Diner
OOWEE
If you like your burgers dirty and your hands greasy, this is the place to hit up – the original Picton Street site is mainly a takeaway, while the larger North Street restaurant has space to eat in. Bright coloured metro tiles and red banquette seating give a proper diner feel, and the monstrous baps will require sleeve rolling. Natalie says: The filthiest within Bristol’s burger crew, Oowee is always my go-to the morning after too many tequilas and bad decisions. More cheese than you could ever wish for teamed with juicy meat, and the portions of loaded fries are properly meals in themselves.
THE OX
The Ox specialises in all things beef, being best known for its top-notch steaks. But take
heed: its burgers are also banging. They feature a blend of prime cuts from local butcher Nigel Buxton, come with fries, and can be seen off with a beer for just £15 every Wednesday night. Keep it under wraps, but we’ve had word of the imminent return of the famous chicken burger, too. Natalie says: The double cheeseburger can be pimped up by adding grilled field mushrooms, pickled jalapenos or blue cheese. It’s melt-inthe-mouth wonderful and should never be forgotten amongst our burger greats.
QUAY ST DINER
This US-inspired diner serves all manner of meat-filled buns. Aside from the Philly cheesesteak and po’ boys, there are three different cheeseburgers to choose from, including the signature ‘classic’. This number shows the virtue in simplicity: a smashed patty of local dry-aged beef with house burger sauce
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and pickles, it’s got all the necessaries for a really decent feed. Natalie says: I’d agree with choosing the classic cheeseburger here – unless you want to go big with the all-American double, of course. Either way, wash it down with a Negroni.
SMOKE AND GLAZE
You can find baps by this pop-up outfit in The Pipe and Slippers on Gloucester Road and The Windmill on Windmill Hill. The team are fierce about making every element of their meals from scratch and have just launched a brand new burger at The Pipe, inspired by three-Michelin-starred sushi chef Masa Takayama. Like his, this number is smoked in its entirety – yup, fillings, bun and everything – over oak wood chips. Natalie says: This underdog of the Bristol burger scene knocks out some of the most underrated baps in the city. I’d highly
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AND NEARBY?
Bristol might have the density, but great quality burgers certainly aren’t limited to within the city boundaries
7 BONE BURGER CO, WESTON-SUPER-MARE
This is not somewhere to go if you’re precious about etiquette or happen to be wearing a white shirt; there’s kitchen roll on the tables for a reason, y’know. (Namely the gloriously messy stacks, in case that wasn’t totally clear.) The patties are made from a very specific blend of dry-aged West Country beef, its ratios developed for optimum flavour, texture and fat content. You can have ’em pink or well done, thick or smashed flat. Try the US diner-style Ronald’s Revenge, or the Triple B, with truffled blue cheese dressing, bacon and bacon jam. Above: 7 Bone serves up its beastly stacks over in nearby Weston-super-Mare
recommend the Chimi-Chimi-Ya: a beef patty topped with cave-aged Cheddar, chorizo, chimichurri dressing, paprika mayo and Cajun ketchup. Yes, please.
SQUEEZED
Hear the news? This place only bagged itself a place on the National Burger Awards’ shortlist for 2019. The tiny takeout likes a flat patty and promises great flavour combos from its imaginative fillings – without overloading that bap. The Reverse Cowgirl is exemplary of its style; the patty is topped with bacon, Monterey Jack cheese, peanut chipotle barbecue sauce and charred scallion sour cream. Natalie says: Owner Alex is a burger god: his creations are the result of a talented chef having the freedom to make the buns he loves. The classic St Werburger is my number one burger in Bristol. If you haven’t yet tried it, do so now.
THREE BROTHERS BURGERS
Burger on a boat? Don’t mind if we do. Three Brothers floats on the river at the end of King
Street and has a belting lunch deal, offering a burger and fries for a fiver (yes, a fiver), seven days a week, between midday and 5pm. The most popular baps here are the Smokey Bro, Buttermilk Chicken and The Mega Burger. Natalie says: This is a Bristol burger institution. If you want a beefy challenge – I know you do – opt for the Mega Burger, with double American cheese, double sweet cured bacon and double patty. And don’t forget those chilli cheese fries, now.
YOYO BURGER
Yoyo is celebrating its 11th birthday this month. Almost anything goes on its eclectic menu – so long as it tastes good – from beefy creations like the New Yorker (with pastrami, Emmental, gherkins and mustard mayo) to more speciality serves, like an ostrich burger and even a Japanese wagyu number. These guys are big on delivery, too – great for the lazier of days. Natalie says: This is a late-night favourite and has a whopping menu full of variety. If you are feeling adventurous, there are lobster burgers and even the infamous Krispy Kreme special.
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BEAR GRILLS, BATH
Since opening in summer 2017, this Larkhall gaff has earned a rep around town for the great quality of its classic burgers. Topped simply with lettuce, tomato, gherkin and relish, the patties are the star of the show and are pressed each day from beef supplied by local butcher Terry and Sons. It ain’t all about the beef, though; the crispy chicken burgers are made from fresh chicken breasts that have been marinated and given a seasoned coating, and there’s a slow-cooked pulled pork number, too.
MAGU, BATH
This atmospheric and stylish burger bar is decked out with chrome bar stools, rustic wood panelling and contemporary neon lighting. It was opened last year by Leon Dunnett, formerly of GPT Smokehouse, and serves up quality burgers in generous portions. Whether you choose the All American Double Smash (two beef patties with fried onions, American cheese, sweet pickles, Magu burger sauce and mustard), The Bath Boys in Blue (with smoked streaky bacon, Bath Blue and truffled mayo), or anything in between, you won’t leave hungry. We have it on good authority that the halloumi fries with chilli jam dip is the business, too.
ON LIN E! OR DE R
Absolutely fantastic - a proper locally sourced burger Opening Hours
COME AND FIND US ST SAVIOURS ROAD, LARKHALL, BATH, BA1 6RT www.beargrillsbath.co.uk
Delivery £1. 50 on orders over £10
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MONDAY-THURSDAY: 17.30-22:30 FRIDAY-SATURDAY: 17.30-23.00 SUNDAY: 17.30-22.00
Free delivery on orders over £15
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Locally grown vegetables, fresh fruit, eggs, meat, milk and loads more.
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Clifton’s Independent Greengrocer
Quality produce that is seasonal and local where possible. Varieties and prices that you often won’t find in the supermarkets. Open Monday to Saturday 9-6, Sunday 11-4 6, Boyces Avenue, Clifton, Bristol BS8 4AA | 0117 9706777
GREAT BURGERS FRESH LOCALLY SOURCED PRODUCE DELICIOUS COCKTAILS
MEATBUSTERS Previously Burgers and Barrels
2 Victoria Buildings, Lower Bristol Road, Bath, BA2 3EH www.meatbusters.co.uk
AFTERS
FÉS NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CA WE FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND WHAT THOUGHT OF THEM
HIGHLIGHTS
74 SHED HEAVEN
THIS TRACTOR SHED-TURNED-RESTAURANT IS A REAL FIND
77 SAVINGS
A LOCAL BOOZER THAT WAS SAVED BY ITS LOCALS
80 FRENCH FANCY THE PARISIAN BISTRO OF COMFORT FOOD DREAMS
The cool Castle Farm in rural Midford has a pretty unique style...
A N DR EW B RA N NA M
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SECRET HIDEOUTS
CASTLE FARM THIS VERSATILE JOINT PROVIDES JESSICA CARTER WITH PLENTY OF REASONS TO KEEP GOING BACK...
Castle Farm, Midford Road, Midford, Bath BA2 7BU; 07564 783307; castlefarmmidford.co.uk
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NEIL WHITE
uch smugness is really unbecoming. There’s no curbing it, though, the gloat is real and – whoops, was that a mental fist pump? The sense of personal triumph begot by discovering a place like Castle Farm is as irresistible as the unassumingly charming joint itself. (I have to fess up at this point; I didn’t happen upon this place myself, by accident. I have a good mate to thank for the discovery.) Castle Farm is housed – yes, on a farm – in a former tractor shed, which is still very much as-was (i.e. a large, windowless box with a corrugated lid and concrete floor). Yet it’s cosy, cheerful and inviting. No, really. And in the evening, when the clear sections of roof no longer filter in daylight, the atmospheric space is lit dimly and filled with candlelight and strings of tiny glowing bulbs. It’s been a café-cum-restaurant for about two years, with husband-and-wife owners Leah and Pravin Nayar having taken it on in June 2018. It’s chef Pravin (formerly of The Talbot Inn in Mells and Beckford Arms in Tisbury) who heads up the open kitchen with pal and fellow chef, Nigel Everett. Season permitting, the produce comes largely from the organic farm the restaurant sits on. By day, you can get breakfast and lunch (roasts on Sundays), and on Friday and Saturday evenings there are curry nights and supper clubs respectively. There are sometimes cookery classes, too.
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A F T E R S
The supper club (£35, usually with six or seven courses) gets a newly themed set menu each month, to reflect what’s being harvested and allow Pravin and Nigel to keep their creative juices flowing. January, of course, is not known for its horticultural bounty, so the pair looked to other seasonal prompts for that month’s menu, and settled on Chinese New Year. It just so happens that I love a dumpling... After parking up, a trot down a dirt path brings you to a farm building. The door is closed, although – in an attempt to reassure you that you’re in the right place – has the café opening times painted on it. Inside, the brick walls are painted white and wood panelling closes off the dining space. Retro prints – including scientific illustrations of veg – and old-school mirrors are hung up, while an assortment of filled jars with brown labels around their necks are displayed on shelves. Each of the mismatched tables is set with linen napkins, gold cutlery and wooden chopsticks, and a blanket is thoughtfully draped over the back of each chair in case the winter chill sets in. We order a couple of glasses of the lightly effervescent Vinho Verde before the appetiser arrives: bubbly tapioca crisps topped with smoky charred aubergine and five spice. This first course sets the culinary precedent: fun and experimental, illustrative of the chefs’ creativity as opposed to being authentically Chinese. Next are steamed pork dumplings (hurrah) with brown butter. The casing is delicate but with bite, and when sliced open oozes out its juicy filling of well-seasoned Mangalitza pork. The salty meat finds its counterpoint in the topping of sweet and mild crab, and a gentle kick of green chilli heat emerges gradually. A bowl of seaweed broth comes next, containing hunks of plump shitake mushroom, buckwheat noodles, Chinese sausage and plenty of umami gratification. The unctuous sweetness of the pale pink sausage contrasts with that savoury character, and the light brown, matt-textured noodles are cooked spot on.
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Heady Szechuan pepper permeates the next dish of pork belly with black bean sauce and poky chilli broccoli. Pulling away the meat’s crunchy, well-spiced strip of crackling allows us to get to the soft, melting fat underneath. A bowl of perfectly cooked black sesame rice sits alongside, steam tumbling out of the fluffy mound. After a taste of a fruity and tart plumb wine comes dessert – glutinous black rice with loganberries and silky sesame ice cream – and then warm sesame shortbread, the seeds creating a moreish sweet-savoury effect. I think I’ve been rather explicit despite myself (I’d really rather not have to fight for a table here), but just in case it’s not clear: this is a genuine hidden gem that completely justifies the use of that much over-used term. Enjoy telling your mates that you’ve just come across this great find – I’ll let you take the credit.
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a @brockleystores
Brockley Stores, Main Road, Brockley, North Somerset BS48 3AT
SPECIALIST SINGLE MALT WHISKIES, PREMIUM RUMS CRAFT WORLD AND LOCAL BEERS, COCKTAIL SPIRITS CUBAN CIGARS, FINE WINES AND CHAMPAGNES PRIVATE & CORPORATE TASTING
8:30am – 4pm
7 Terrace Walk, Bath • Tel: 01225 340636 Independent-Spirit-of-Bath @indiespiritbath shop@independentspiritofbath.co.uk
A F T E R S
CHILLED OUT LOCALS
THE GEORGE INN DAN IZZARD IS PRETTY GLAD THAT THIS COMMUNITY PUB WAS SAVED FROM AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE
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A F T E R S
O
utside the city centre, there’s a bit more room for pubs to stretch their legs. The George Inn is only 20 minutes away from innermost Bristol but has solid rural character and a large beer garden (on this wet winter evening it was shrouded in darkness, but I’ve overheard from locals that it’s quite the cider drinking hotspot in the summer). With centuries of history, the pub is housed in one of the oldest buildings in the village and has a beautiful beamed ceiling. There’s even a mezzanine level, which gives the place a bit more of a restaurant vibe than one you’d expect from your standard boozer. It was barely more than a year ago when the pub closed its doors indefinitely, the prospect of it being turned into flats or retail space hanging over it like a dark cloud. Luckily, thanks to some plucky work from the parish council, it was granted a listing as an Asset of Community Value (which should offer some protection of its status as a pub in the event of its sale), and reopened at the end of last year. The small bar has all the usual suspects on tap, displaying Thatchers and Butcombe badges as well as a range of lagers and a few guest ales – and there’s a decent wine list, too. Although the £19 bottle of Viognier caught my attention, it was a school night – and a chilly one, at that – so I’d arrived with fond ideas of sinking into a corner and nursing a pint. Butcombe in hand, then, I retreated to a table at the far end of the room next to a wall mosaicked with tiny mirrored tiles – and quietly reflected. The menu rolls off a range of pub classics; we’re talking beer battered fish and chips (£10.50), honey roast ham and chips (£9.50) and pie of the week (£12.50). So far, so traditional. Less conventionally – but very welcome – are vegan and vegetarian meals like vegan curry with jasmine rice, cashew nuts and chilli salsa (£10.50), and superfood salad (£9.50). You can swap mozzarella for vegan cheese on the pizzas, too. In the absence of a starters section on the menu, we looked to the range of sides, which seems to have been curated to fulfil entrée duties as well as those of hot bar snacks. Best friends of beer are, of course, always salty and deep fried, and don’t come more suitable than breaded whitebait (£4.50). For the same price as a premium lager, we landed a considerable catch of the satisfyingly crunchy little blighters, spritzing them in lemon and seeing them off with a tartare sauce dip. Slipping back on my chair a touch further with each sip of ale, I went full ‘pub’ and opted for the pie of the week. At the risk of offending pie purists (hello, dad) it was exactly what I wanted, despite the fact they’d call it a casserole with a lid. Punching through the flaky and golden pastry top revealed a steaming mix of juicy chicken thigh enveloped in a herb and tarragon sauce. Supporting roles were played by a mound of mushy peas and practically a hillock of mashed potato that you definitely knew contained more cream than would be recommended by a health professional – and was all the better for it. By this point, I had relaxed (read: slumped) so far down in my chair that I could barely see over the burger that was on the other side of the table. The Notorious P.I.G (£12) was a hefty stack; a grilled beef patty was joined by chorizo jam, bacon and cheese in a brioche bun. The construction predictably toppled and the now-open-sandwich was had at by a knife and fork instead. I even managed to nab a couple of the giant and perfectly crisp chips while the drama played out, for pie filling mopping duties.
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The George Inn fulfills the old school notion of what a local pub should be – a community hub that’s welcoming enough to draw in a real mix of people. There were locals who had come for a few drinks, those whose swift half had turned into dinner, a couple who’d popped in to pick up their takeaway pizzas, several pooches, and one reviewer who suddenly has another thirst coming on.
The George Inn, Manor Road, Abbots Leigh, Bristol BS8 3RP; 01275 376 985; georgeinn.pub
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N E W R E S TA U R A N T S
LA GUINGUETTE IF YOU THOUGHT ALL FRENCH FOOD WAS OF THE FANCY ILK, JESSICA CARTER KNOWS SOMEWHERE YOU SHOULD VISIT
O
n my first visit to the Eiffel Tower, I wasn’t the only one up there on the brink of weeping. But while my fellow tourists were holding back tears of joy, mid-marriage-proposals, my watering eyes were induced by the financial blow of the coffee bill I’d been presented with on my walk over, which saw my student budget for the day in tatters. (And I only even ordered that espresso so I could use the loo.) Three people who are far too au fait with the City of Lights to be on the receiving end of such surprises are Parisian hospitality pros Roxane and Jérôme Frauche, and Ophélie Rupp. So when it came to opening the restaurant they’d wanted for so long, they planned to look beyond pricey Paris. Luckily, having family in Bristol this city was very much on their radar, and it didn’t take many visits for them to become fans of our patch. In 2017 these guys upped sticks and moved across the Channel on the hunt for the perfect bistro spot. Finally, they came across the former Parlour on the corner of Cheltenham Road and Zetland Road and snapped it right up, opening the doors in September last year. The cosy space has a subtly French mise-en-scene; tiny lights are strung up
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A F T E R S
across the ceiling, blackboards list specials and wines, and vintage props are peppered about the space – think retro posters, decades-old glass soda syphon bottles and battered scales. Those, we find out, came from Ophélie’s grandma, a former restaurateur who stored all her place’s brica-brac in her attic when she retired. The wine list is varied without being of biblical length or inducing mild panic, and most varieties are available in three sizes of glass, as well as by the bottle. The food menu is similarly digestible in size, with a couple of hors d’oeuvres, followed by starters, a sharing board each of meat and cheese, and main courses. An adaptable collection of plates, then, which’ll do as well for nibbles as for sharing dishes and three-course meals. Where it really wins, though, is in the cheese and carb stakes. This is rustic, homely French food – the stuff you’d eat at the family table or in casual pub-style joints – so expect lots of bread and plenty of France’s most famous dairy-based product. The mushroom tapenade (£4) is great value: a Kilner jar of the rich, dark mixture comes on a board with loads of crisp bread slices to heap it onto. People regularly come in solely for the baked Camembert (£6.80), we’re told, which is just the right size for two to share – again accompanied by plenty of carb – while the tuna and tarragon rillettes (£5.30) tastes fresh and light with a soft, aromatic herbiness, teamed with a creamy chive-flecked sauce. We slather it onto the warm, crusty lengths of baguette. (Yes, more bread – what of it?) Order the raclette (£14.50 per person) and a grill will soon appear at the table with a small pan for you to employ in the exercise of turning solid cheese into bubbling unctuousness. We upturn those pans over our plates, draping warm baby potatoes and charcuterie in cheesy blankets. Every French family has one of those grills, Roxane tells us, and very reasonably wastes no time in whipping it out as soon as the weather turns cold.
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The steak frites (£13.50) involves a crimson-centred, deeply grained cut of beef, and a very healthy helping of French fries. Choose to have it with the wellbalanced blue cheese sauce or garlic butter. A café gourmand (£7) rounds off a fun dinner by way of a mini chocolate mousse, vanilla-laced crème brûlée and espresso – all arriving set out on a tiny plastic tray. We couldn’t help but fall for this place and its fuss-free, straight-up food. There are no fancy frills, just a warm atmosphere, great wines, and grub to make you happy. The team is as friendly as the prices (wines start at £3.20 for a small glass), and four-legged pals are as welcome as anyone. If I were cleverer (or less honest), I may have just kept all that to myself.
La Guinguette, 243 Cheltenham Road, Bristol BS6 5QP; 0117 329 0600; laguinguette.co.uk
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BREAKFAST? The River House, Frome. So much thought has gone into their food, especially the veggie breakfast, which can often be neglected. BEST BREW? Picnic In The Park. Would recommend having the roast vegetable and goat’s cheese baked potato while you’re there. Also, the baguettes are a great hangover cure. BEST WINE MERCHANT? Palmer Street Bottle. The place is perfect for a pre-dinner pit-stop or to catch up with a mate. Super selection of wine and craft beer – and artisan cheeses. MI CHAEL WHARLEY
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B L A C K
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TOM ENGLANd
QUICK PINT? The Barge Inn, Bradford-on-Avon. It’s warm and cosy in the winter, and has seating by the banks of the canal for the summer. Mine’s a Lilley’s Cider. CHEEKY COCKTAIL? Opium. Stumbled upon this place by accident and I’m very glad that I did. If you like cushions and cocktails, this is the place for you. If you like windows, maybe not. FOOD ON THE GO? Taka Taka. This place shines like a beacon after a night on the town. High quality, greasy food in all its loveliness. ALFRESCO FEASTING? Garden Café in Frome. Always a meeting point for me and my friends. Located right in the centre of town, this café with courtyard garden is a delight. It’s also perfect for vegetarians, like myself.
ACTOR TOM IS RETURNING TO THE CITY HE WAS BORN IN AS PART OF THE CAST OF CAROLINE’S KITCHEN – A DARK COMEDY ABOUT A CELEBRITY CHEF, WHICH IS SHOWING AT THEATRE ROYAL BATH, 25-30 MARCH. HERE’S WHERE YOU’LL LIKELY SPOT HIM WHILE HE’S IN TOWN...
WITH FRIENDS? Cider on a boat at The Apple. I would urge you to go. The cider is bloomin’ marvellous, but if you’re not a fan there are plenty of other options. Makes me feel like a pirate! COMFORT FOOD? The Lock Inn, Bradford-on-Avon has always been a regular fixture for me, my family and my friends. It’s been owned by the same family since it was opened and you can taste the love and attention in the food. Try the homemade lasagna. SUPER SERVICE? Castello. My parents go here almost weekly – and for good reason. The atmosphere is so welcoming and the staff are just lovely. CHILD FRIENDLY? The Egg Café is ideal for children. Complete with toys, ball pool and kids’ menu. BEST CURRY? The Eastern Eye. As much a feast for your eyes as it is for your belly. A real experience, eating delicious Indian food amongst a grand Georgian interior.
Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book... The River House, Frome BA11 1AR; riverhousefrome.co.uk Picnic In The Park, Bath BA1 3BA; picnicintheparkbath.co.uk Palmer Street Bottle, Frome BA11 1DS; palmerstbottle.co.uk The Barge Inn, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 2EA; thebargeinn.org Opium, Bath BA2 6PJ; opiumbars.com Taka Taka, Bath BA1 5LP; taka-taka.co.uk Garden Café, Frome BA11 1BU; gardencafefrome.co.uk The Apple, Bristol BS1 4SB; applecider.co.uk The Lock Inn, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1LE; thelockinn.co.uk Castello, Frome BA11 1DS; castellorestaurants.com The Egg Café, Bath BA1 2AN; theatreroyal.org.uk The Eastern Eye, Bath BA1 2JS; easterneye.com La Strada, Frome BA11 1BN; cafelastrada.co.uk The Stable, Bath BA1 2AE; stablepizza.com The Scallop Shell, Bath BA1 2AY; thescallopshell.co.uk Snack Bar Café, Bath BA1 1PF; 01225 461705
SOMETHING SWEET? La Strada. Hands down the best coffee and gelato in Frome, in a wonderfully quaint part of town. PRE-THEATRE FEED? The Stable. Pizza, pies and beer. These are a few of my favourite things. And only a one-minute walk from Bath Theatre Royal. I’m sure I’ll be visiting this place during our stay in Bath! ON THE HIT LIST? The Scallop Shell. This place has won prizes for its fish and chips, which is enough to entice me. It’s not too pricey, either. MOST UNDERRATED? Snack Bar Café, Bath. Cheap and cheerful with wonderful service. The ladies behind the counter are a good laugh, too! theatreroyal.org.uk
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