6 minute read
RESTAURANT Sublime small plates at the Heathcock pub and restaurant
HEATHCOCK Lisa Evans delves into the small plates offering at this local Llandaff favourite, the sister pub of the are ounds in Aberthin
When is a Sunday lunch not a But of course you can also have a big roast, too, which Sunday lunch? When you forgo my husband did, with his choice of pink-as-can-be, melty the beef and tatties and order Welsh roast Angus sirloin – complete with its amber ribbon rotolo and gnocchi. And I don’t of fat and duck-fat potatoes, orkshire pudding and regret it either. Normally lashings veggies loaded on the plate with heft and generosity. of gravy and all the traditional Depending on how much you trust your dining partner trimmings are my jam, but when to be fair and equal, there’s a ‘for two’ section on the menu, I saw the incredible offering on the eathcock’s menu, out too, featuring extra-large dishes ready to be split lovingly of my comfort zone I scampered. between you from a chicken, leek and bacon pie to seven-
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Since they’ve reopened post pandemic, the thriving hour braised venison shoulder – romantic or a recipe for watering hole has switched to a more casual ‘small plates’ disaster I’ll let you decide, but, for me, just looking at that setup instead of à la carte. There’s Porthilly oyster with option on the menu gave me palpitations. fermented chilli, cucumber and mint braised duck leg e were recommended to visit the eathcock by a pappardelle; crispy lamb shoulder with roast tomato and born-and-bred Cardian who knows the food scene inside green sauce, and the list continues. You can either order out and who has declared the pub as her favourite in the an assortment to share, one as a starter, or you can even whole of the city. That’s saying something. request that a smally be made into a biggy so you can It opened nearly two years ago as the sister pub of the enjoy it as a main. are ounds in Aberthin the are has a ichelin
bib, and the aim was for the Heathcock to transfer the same concept of quality food and drinks in a relaxed and informal pub setting. Everything’s made from scratch in the kitchen, from sourdough bread and cultured butter, to pasta and charcuterie; the menu changes daily, and all of the produce is from local suppliers.
As I mentioned, my choice was the fantastically fresh Hafod and potato gnocchi with a sweet, verdant pea purée and broad beans. And I followed that with a slow-roast tomato, ricotta and basil rotolo, which positively zinged. How can a course be hearty yet light in equal measure? Who knows, but this Tuscan pasta dish was taut and silky, lling and dainty with a joyous thwack of flavour. Chef’s not shy with herbs, either, he doesn’t do nely chopped’, he lets the whole leaves dance on the tongue.
I haven’t stopped thinking about these colourful, sparkling dishes since they set my taste buds alight. Every night when my husband asks what I fancy for dinner, they’re all that springs to mind. e nished with a thick-set lemon tart full of zest and a satisfyingly crunchy burnished glaze, and a comforting buttermilk pudding with strawberries and moreish honeycomb pieces.
If you too would like to be flavour-punched in the mouth by locally produced, lovingly prepared food, get yourself over to the Heathcock, stat. I can’t keep on recreating mediocre versions in my own kitchen, so I’ll see you there soon. n
DINING DETAILS Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge Street, Cardiff, CF5 2EN; 029 2115 2290; www.heathcockcardiff.com We ate Welsh roast Angus sirloin with duck-fat potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and veggies; Hafod and potato gnocchi; tomato, ricotta and basil rotolo; lemon tart; and buttermilk pudding with strawberries and honeycomb Drinks They source as much local beer and ale as possible, and the wine list is purely old world Vibe It has an air of unhurried calm and is evidently a favourite spot for locals Head chef Dave Killick, who spent three and a half years at the Hare & Hounds as sous chef What’s new They’ve opened a bakery and coffee shop on the premises. Open from 9am – 4pm, Tue – Sat.
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Kelly East
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