SPRING GREENS The warmer months herald colourful plates teeming with fresh, local produce. We chatted to a couple of Exeter foodies to find out what is on their spring menus…
MATTHEW MASON
Chef at The Jack in the Green, London Road, Exeter; www.jackinthegreen.uk.com What local produce are you looking forward to using this spring?
“April hath put the spirit of youth in everything.” Shakespeare is a man after my own heart and spring is always welcomed in our kitchen. The signs of warmer weather, longer days and the promise of the new season’s produce are guaranteed to lift any chef ’s winter blues! Together with the first of the peas in their pods, the tiniest of fresh asparagus
“New season garlic makes a delightful sweet purée when slow roasted with local honey” 34 I EXETER LIVING I www.mediaclash.co.uk
spears are beginning to grow just down the road. Stunning morel mushrooms also have a very short season and we snap these beauties up in a heartbeat when they’re offered! The usual wild garlic will soon be available and on many a kitchen menu but should be used with caution as it is dangerously pungent and can easily overpower a dish. I also enjoy the new season garlic which comes first from the mountains in northern Italy – this makes a delightful sweet purée when slow roasted with local honey. Personally, I avoid the early flurry of spring lamb as I find it a little expensive and prefer to wait until it’s a little older and has a fuller flavour. Perhaps try making a wonderful spring pea soup at home with a little pancetta and flakes of ham hock and a crispy hen’s egg – this takes something so simple to a whole new level. What’s on your spring menu?
Right now you’ll find some beautiful line caught Cornish cod, our own home cured bresaola, miso glazed creedy carver duck breast from Crediton and a decadent chocolate and orange mousse cake with Grand Marnier and mascarpone cream. It’s also the start of the pub’s 28th year and my 26th year as head chef !
