RESTAURANT Down at the quay

ON THE WATERFRONT anging monkeys, cosy booths, and a ery pia go down a treat at this uayside restaurant By Harriet Noble

On a regular basis nd mysel staring at people who are breeily, happily, munching away on a meal which has no condiments. o sauce, mustard, gray, dressing, chutney, us nada. hy arent they choking r at least looking supremely disgruntled. plate o dry ood with nothing to dip or bathe it in is right at the top on the list o culinary sins as ar as m concerned. Thats why the wetness o curries and dhals are a delightul walk in the park or me. o prolic is my loe or wet ood that when was at uniersity here in eter, the people at the pia takeaway place who had got to know me pretty well, didnt need to ask me i wanted any condiments with my order. Theyd instead say, o itll be tubs o the garlic sauce to go with your pia as normal arry hich leads me to the pia m enoying here n The aterront. t might ust be the rst pia hae eer eaten without any sauce. ot een on the usually desert-dry crust, because it is so deliciously moist. ts a wet day down here at the uay as sit cosied up in a booth under the brick arches o this th entury conerted warehouse. opt or the ery inerno option to warm my bones up a miture o dry-smoked pepperoni and chorio sausage with red onion, alapenos and a dusting o cayenne pepper. ts hot stuff theres a deep aoursome punch rom the pepperoni and sausage causing a partial numbing o my lips which rather like. nd it is ust what m ater today, as is the starter gobble up egetable parcels a crunchy pistachio-coloured concoction with a carrot, ginger, soya dip hoorah, dip. ther choices on the menu are decidedly warming and hearty too. There are tapas plates o ackruit wings, baked honey halloumi other pia options called youe pulled youe guessed it, pulled pork and the reek lamb with eta and olies and a pig in blanket burger and stickie wae cake. m also rather smitten with the dcor here too.

“There’s a partial numbing on my lips which I rather like”

HARRIET NOBLE ©

If you haven’t been in to On The Waterfront for a while, back in March, pre-lockdown, it had a massive overhaul and interior shake-up, resulting in a much-brightened venue.

The long room now sports a jungle feel, with leafy green foliage on the ceiling and with monkeys (not real ones, alas) swinging from the ceiling, holding little lamps. ts also got soundproong and loads o etra lighting running along the oak panelling. nd it seems the team here had etraordinary foresight because they also added screens throughout the restaurant to give tables a bit of privacy, which for obvious reasons has made a huge amount of sense. In fact, the long rectangular shape of the restaurant and its private booths lend themselves perfectly to the current rules and regs.

Schedule in diary immediately: blow-out-the-cobwebs walk along the uay, nishing up n the waterront or a great big, spicy pizza. Sauce optional. ■

DINING DETAILS On The Waterfront, Southern Warehouse, 4-9, The Quay, Exeter EX2 4AP, 01392 210590; www.waterfrontexeter.co.uk Opening times Mon-Son 11pm- 9pm (last food orders 8.45pm, doors close at 10pm) In a nutshell Bar and pizza restaurant, also burgers, small plates, tapas dishes, salads and a kid’s menu. Vegan/vegetarian options available Drinks Good selection of wine, beer and cocktails as well as low-calorie and/or no-alcohol (or low-alcohol) beverages Prices Pizza £12-25.50; tapas £4-6; burgers £12-13 Service/atmosphere Family-friendly