INSIDE The Ivy Exeter

THE IVY EXETER

It’s here, it’s beautiful and it’s buzzing By Harriet Noble

It’s difficult to resist the lure of The Ivy. From the original London venue, notorious as a 90s celebrity hotspot, it has now spread its wings and become, that slightly dubious of things, a chain. And yet. The team at the Ivy have pulled off an amazing feat, creating a restaurant bursting with beauty, with nothing painting-by-numbers about it.

Entering The Ivy is to enter a botanical fantasy land where old-school art deco influences sweep through the restaurant; you are, in an instant, transported away from the high street, landing in planet glam. And the current trend for maximalist interiors couldn’t come at a better time for this restaurant with its opulent bar, sky-high plants, and bold riverbank wallpaper design, depicting giant watery scenes and native wildlife of the River Exe. The botanical look continues in the bathrooms – the décor highlight for many and our beaut of a front cover – where you’ll find a carpet of blush pink roses on the ceiling, wallpaper featuring resplendent peacocks roosting in an elegant pergola trellis, pink marble basins and a whopping chandelier for good measure.

But on to the food. The menu is a savvy collection with classics such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips, as well as a splattering of unusual dishes to suit the more adventurous; my plus one on the visit is my sister Louise and we both comment that we could take our whole family here and the Holy Grail of restaurant experiences would happen – everyone would find something they liked on the menu.

I start off with the bang bang crispy chicken dish that comes with peanut, cucumber, baby gem and radish salad, sweet chilli and peanut dressing. It has a big, delicious Asian kick to it, beautifully offset with splashes of fresh lime. In fact, I love this dish so much I am actually googling it now to see if I can re-create it at home.

To follow, I have hoisin-glazed crispy duck leg sitting on a cloud of creamy coriander-mashed potatoes, with pak-choi, sesame seeds and red wine sauce. This is my kind of meat and veg dish, it’s bursting full of flavour – the crisp on the duck is to die for – but it’s elegant, not heavy; I don’t need to lie down afterwards.

My sis kicks off her meal with a summery mocktail, elderflower garden. This restaurant is so on-brand the drink matches the interiors with its rouge colour and

“The marriage of spices and fresh flavours proves a punchy and refreshing mouthful”

fresh cucumber strip wrapping the glass; it’s refreshing with deep, bitter flavours that hum through.

Her starter, the crispy duck salad, comes with a five-spice dressing, toasted cashews, watermelon, beansprouts, sesame seeds, coriander and ginger. Again the marriage of spices and fresh flavours proving a punchy and refreshing mouthful.

For main course she is on to the Peruvian chicken, a glazed, shiny piece that comes with spices, avocado salad and jalapeño sauce; her favourite dish of the day.

I’ve been to four different Ivy restaurants over the past few years and, I must say, the new Exeter one is my favourite. The food is the best I’ve had, the space feels so bright and it’s in the perfect location by the Cathedral. Throughout our visit the team are friendly, helpful and relaxed – so while the white linen table clothes and chandeliers are part of the chic set-up of this restaurant, you sense it’s an inclusive place where anyone and everyone is welcome. That said, you do feel it’s a place where people dress up for. This is no bad thing in my book – after a year of wearing loungewear I’m overjoyed to jump into a going-out outfit, bung on the blusher and mascara and head out to this fun restaurant. n

© THE IVY EXETER

DINING DETAILS

The Ivy Exeter, 65-67 High Street, Exeter; www.theivyexeter.com Food options Lots of different menus: breakfast, weekend brunch, a la carte, all day menu, lunch and early afternoon menu, afternoon tea, vegan and vegetarian menu Drinks Good selection of wines, beers and colourful cocktails Prices Lunch and early afternoon menu, two courses £16.95; mains on the all-day menu start at £13.95 Atmosphere Chic, fun and friendly