4 minute read
Caving Phil Hendy
The relationship between cheese and caves
CHEDDARis famous for its gorge, caves, strawberries and of course cheese. Cheddar cheese is one of the oldest dairy products and the most popular world-wide. It is classed as a hard cheese, one of few British hard cheeses, although there are many European varieties. British hard cheeses include Red Leicester and Double Gloucester, both of which are orange due to addition of annato, a colouring agent. There is also Wensleydale. They also tend to be younger and softer than Cheddar.
Although it is likely that this cheese first came to prominence in this region of Somerset, today the name refers to the manufacturing process – cheddaring – rather than the location.
Cheddaring is the manner in which the curds are turned after the addition of rennet. Cheddar cheese was already famed in the 13th century and it is a pity that the dairymen of the time did not think to patent the process and apply for a Protected Designation of Origin, as has been applied to Stilton.
Today’s local Cheddar comes from the milk of cows feeding on the lush grass of the Somerset Levels and some of the cheese is made at the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company, located in the Gorge itself.
The end result is hard and slightly crumbly and graded according to the length of time during which it is allowed to mature. Mild cheese is aged for three to six months, Sharp for nine to 12, and Extra Sharp for up to two years, sometimes as long as ten years.
If you have read this far, you are probably thinking that I have forgotten about the caves. Not so, for caves can play a unique role in the ageing process. Finished cheeses are wrapped in muslin (cheesecloth) and left to mature, which means ripening and enhancing the flavour.
Today, most Cheddar is aged in climate-controlled stores – it
With PHILIP HENDY must be kept cool. Long before the modern age, dairymen realised that cellars and caves were ideal for the purpose. In 2006 the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company obtained permission from Longleat Estates to store and mature some of their cheese in Gough’s Cave. Some refer to it as ageing, but it boils down to the same thing. Capacity was doubled in 2009, so successful was the concept. The large truckles are kept in wire mesh caves in an extension to the side of Heartbreak Hill, to allow the air to circulate. For obvious reasons the cages are locked! A constant temperature of around 11ºC and bacteria and moulds unique to caves give the cheese a distinct flavour. The truckles are turned and wiped regularly, until they are ready for sale at around nine months. There is distinct cheesy odour as visitors pass by and, strangely, the roof of the cave here is covered with a type of moss found nowhere else in the cave. Down the road, cheese is also aged in Wookey Hole Cave. The concept is the same, but this cheese is made by Ford Farms of Dorset. Cave Aged or Matured Cheddar is very tasty and goes down well with crusty bread, maybe with apple and onion, washed down with a draught of local cider, another Somerset speciality Continental dairymen also matured their cheese in caves. In 2002 members of the Wessex Cave Club explored the Grotte de la Vacquerie in France’s Herault region. Situated far from any settlement, a small opening in a wall built into a cliff face led straight into a large cavern, some four metres high and 18 metres wide. Stone steps led down to three paved terraces, where there was a series of stone pillars which at one time supported thick slate shelves. It was so large that the cheese must have been made by a commune of small farmers, as the herds of cattle at that time were very small. The only form of light would have been candles or blazing torches, so the walls and roof were blackened with soot. A small opening to the outside was probably where the cheese was brought in and out, possibly using a small tramway. At the lower end of the chamber was a small water cistern. The rest of the cave is long and complex, which gave us a pleasant afternoon of exploration. So, cheese, caves and possibly some cider – how better to enjoy a visit to Cheddar?
