10 minute read
NOffLA news: Julia O'Reilly
In good taste
Julia O’Reilly sits down with sisters Judith and Susan Boyle to talk NOffLA, the Irish drinks industry, and their family’s pub and off-licence in Kildare Town - Boyle’s
Judith and Susan Boyle wear many hats of the prestigious and coveted variety. Between them, they possess a slew of qualifications and awards too multitudinous to list here. Susan hails from a theatrical background and is currently pursuing her PhD qualification. Her sister Judith, a scientist, is a lecturer at TU Dublin. Both have taken a unique approach to celebrating their shared love –the drinks industry.
The Boyle family have been in the industry for generations so it’s fair to say the phrase ‘it’s in their blood’ applies here. A family business that dates back to 1945, Boyle’s pub and off-licence was started by Judith and Susan’s grandfather.
“When our mum and dad were running Boyle’s, they encouraged us both to pursue other interests,” Judith says. And that they did, before ultimately finding their way back to alcohol.
Judith studied chemistry and petroleum geochemistry and worked as a scientist before deciding to come back to the family business, which she is now at the helm of. She is also a lecturer in beverages in the School of culinary Arts and Food Technology in TU Dublin, where she specialises in beer, wine, spirits, mixed drinks, and fermentation.
Susan, meanwhile, studied drama and theatre studies at college. “I always think the Ancient Greeks were onto a good thing. The Greek god of theatre and the Greek god of wine was the same dude. And I was like, well if they can combine the two, there’s probably some way that I can too. So, I started attending wine tastings while at university. From there, I did my WSET exams, and began writing about wine.”
Shared interests
Sharing how the sisters’ interests complement one another, Susan says: “I became more interested in wine and spirits. Judith became more interested in beer. So, I tagged onto that because it’s great fun.
“We both have a really good palate. Ours are two of the most highly sought after in the business,” she says with a smile.
“There’s a genetic component,” she adds: “You’re either able to pick up certain things that you can taste or you can’t. For us, it’s really good fun. Just recently it’s led to Judy tasting at the Brussels Beer Challenge, and me to Munich.”
The Boyle sisters agree that the business benefits of their travels are many: “Ireland is a small country, and you get to know the network really nicely here,” says Susan. “But it’s lovely to have that international aspect too. And we’ve both always looked at how we can learn things from other places.
“It’s been interesting to see first-hand how Covid affected the on and off-trade in other countries,” agrees Judith.
International reputation
Our conversation then turns to Irish drink habits and the government’s attitude to same: “Often, the way Irish people are portrayed where drinking is concerned is stark in comparison to the quality of alcohol we’re producing,” says Judith.
Agreeing, Susan adds: “The high-quality of alcohol produced in Ireland is sometimes taken a little bit for granted here. But outside of the country it’s incredibly well regarded. The focus here is so often on the problems caused by alcohol. That, rather than on how the industry can better be supported.”
The team at Boyle’s are strong believers in shopping local. As Judith states: “It’s always helpful to make people think about shopping local and what that does to a local environment.”
Spirit of Ireland
The conversation changes tack then to the work Susan has been doing with Bord Bia to support the sales of Irish spirits internationally. “It’s called the Spirit of Ireland,” she shares. “It’s an immersive education programme. There’s a scratch and sniff guide to Irish whiskey that’s incredibly fun.
“It’s done in a play format because I write plays about drinks and their histories, and I’ve had the pleasure of being able to roll that out too, to Canada and Germany and the United States in the last couple of months and to see how incredibly well it’s received has been just wonderful.”
She makes it clear then that she’s not just promoting products from one distillery: “It looks at the entire category,” she says. “So, I get to highlight the fantastic work being done in the industry, which is lovely.”
The Boyle sisters are doing the same. Susan says: “I think we both found niches in this field. The alcohol industry is quite male dominated, but I believe there is a role for women there and how we make that role is by space making and place making. Also, making sure that we go to these international competitions and that we show up and show that we’re as good as anyone else.”
Telling their stories is also crucial, she says: “Judy does that through the education work that she does at the university level. I love the industry and I love writing about it too. I was named the Irish Food Writing Awards Wine Writer of the Year for 2022, which is something I’m incredibly proud of.”
Practical approach
We talk then about some of the lessons that these ladies have taken from their experiences with Boyle’s pub and off-licence, in the light of the slew of academic qualifications, awards and accolades they have.
“We both feel very grounded by having the business,” replies Susan. “That keeps us out of what’s merely theoretical and immersed in the actual reality of what the people in Kildare are buying.”
“The two sides of it work nicely together,” she continues. “I don’t think it would work for us as well if we didn’t have both the international perspectives, a wider perspective, and then an understanding of what exactly is happening on the ground in the off-licence.”
“It’s a great industry to be in, but there was a time where it was a very difficult one to be in,” shares Judith. “It’s never been that easy to run an independent off licence. But lately it has been nicer than ever, because now people are more interested in what they’re drinking and how they’re drinking it.”
Product knowledge
Alluding then to the knowledge and expertise that is required for everyone in that business Judith continues: “It’s been my experience that the people running independent off-licences have huge product knowledge. They source all the products themselves. What they fill the shelves with takes lots thought and know-how.”
Asked what consumers are looking for from Boyle’s amid the ongoing concern around inflation, Judith replies: “I think people are still looking for taste, which is great. People are buying less, but they’re buying better. They’re buying more interesting things. There’s a lot more interest in biodynamic and low intervention wines and in organic too. Consumers have been really drawn to the different spirits that are involved in cocktails. There has also been a trend of people looking to buy Irish spirits, and local spirits as well, which we always like to see.”
Total support
Both ladies have much to say that’s positive about NOffLA: “It’s a great organisation,” says Judith. “I’ve always found NOffLA to be utterly supportive in everything that we’ve done. Also, by doing the Irish Wine Show Star Awards, it’s supporting not only the partners in NOffLA, but also the industry in general.”
“At this stage, the awards are so well recognised,” says Susan. “The panels of everyone who’s tasting for them are incredible. It’s a lovely mix of people who really, really know their stuff, and the blind tasting format works so well.
“It’s an incredible and confidence inducing thing to know that the wines on the shelves that win those awards have been tasted by people who know a lot about selling and tasting wines. And then that knowledge gets passed onto the customers buying those wines, which is amazing.”
“We are selling something that is licensed and needs to be regulated,” adds Judith. “Because things change and the industry changes too, it’s comforting to have a body like NOffLA there to knowledgeably talk you through those changes and the relevant
Sisters Susan and Judith Boyle complement each other’s talents perfectly (Photograph: Dawn Broughan)
legislation. The government’s great for pulling out a 50- or 60-page report. But NOffLA is always there when you need straightforward guidance that you can rely on.
“And it’s also lovely when there are events, to talk with other officious owners about what’s happening in relation to their businesses or if there’s a product that they found that works really well for them. This knowledge sharing is really beneficial.”
Supporting local
So too is shopping local. Judith puts it this way: “It’s hard to be an independent retailer today. You are competing against people with huge amounts of advertising income, and income in general.
“It’s always helpful to make people think about shopping local and what that does to a local environment. When you support a small community business, or local product producers, it has a positive impact on the wider community as a whole.
“Meanwhile, when small businesses gather their resources, share knowledge, and create their own community, they can make a bigger impact.”
Susan is in full agreement: “That’s the nice thing about being part of an organisation like NOffLA. You know you’re not doing something on your own. You know you are part of a bigger organisation; a bigger network. There’s a lot of power in that.”
A well-deserved congratulations to all the finalists for the 2023 NOffLA Off-Licence of the Year Awards displayed here:
1 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co. Dublin 2 Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4 3 Blackrock Cellar, Co. Dublin 4 C. McEntees, Kells, Co. Meath 5 Carry Out Ballinasloe, Co. Galway 6 Carry Out Muckross Road, Killarney, Co. Kerry 7 Carry Out Newcastle West, Co. Limerick 8 Carry Out Off-Licence Tyrrellstown, Dublin 15 9 Carry Out The Reeks, Killarney, Co. Kerry 10 Carry Out Tramore, Co. Waterford 11 D6 Wine & Spirits, Rathmines, Dublin 6 12 Dalys Drinks Ltd., Boyle, Co. Roscommon 13 Deveney’s Dundrum, Dublin 16 14 Dicey’s Off-Licence, Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal 15 Galvins Carry Out Carrigaline, Co. Cork 16 Gibney’s of Malahide, Co. Dublin 17 Higgins Off-Licence, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14 18 James Redmond & Sons Ltd., Ranelagh, Dublin 6 19 Jus De Vine, Portmarnock, Co. Dublin 20 Kellers Carry Out Nenagh, Co. Tipperary 21 Kellers Carry Out Roscrea, Co. Tipperary 22 Londis Malahide, Co. Dublin 23 Martin’s Off-Licence, Fairview, Dublin 3 24 Mary B’s, Arklow, Co. Wicklow 25 McHugh’s Kilbarrack Road, Dublin 5 26 McHugh’s Malahide Road, Dublin 5 27 Mitchell & Son CHQ, Dublin 1 28 Mitchells Wine & Spirit Merchants, Sandycove, Co. Dublin 29 Molloys Ballyfermot, Dublin 10 30 Molloys Clondalkin, Dublin 22 31 Molloys Finglas, Dublin 11 32 Molloys Liberties, Dublin 8 33 Molloys Tallaght, Dublin 24 34 O’Donovans Off-Licence Bandon, Co. Cork 35 O’Donovans Off-Licence Blackpool, Co. Cork 36 O’Donovans Off-Licence Carrigaline, Co. Cork 37 O’Donovans Off-Licence Mayfield, Co. Cork 38 O’Donovans Off-Licence Midleton, Co. Cork 39 O’Donovans Off-Licence Oliver Plunkett Street, Co. Cork 40 O’Donovans Off-Licence Passage West, Co. Cork 41 O’Donovans Off-Licence Summerhill North, Co. Cork 42 Sweeney’s D3, Fairview, Dublin 3 43 The Coach House Off-Licence, Ballinteer, Dubln 16 44 The Vintry, Rathgar, Dublin 6 45 The Wine Centre, Kilkenny 46 Thompson’s Carry Out, Ferrybank, Co. Waterford
noffla contacts
If you have any queries regarding NOffLA membership or services, please contact our administrator, Reggie Walsh, at Block D, Unit 6, Nutgrove Office Park, Rathfarnham, Dublin 14, by telephone on 01 - 296 2326, by fax on 01 - 296 2451 or by email at info@noffla.ie. The NOffLA website can be found at www.noffla.ie. ■
