grill’s Extra Virgin Olive Oil Tasting
autumn 2010
The
good in your region grill tastes New Zealand’s condiment style Extra Virgin Olive Oils
THE TASTING PANEL
T
Again grill’s tasting panel featured Danny Schuster, a master taster with international experience, just returned from Tuscany having tasted the new season oils. Other members were grill’s consulting editor Keith Stewart an experienced and respected taster and John Clarke, resource editor. Joining these three was Eugene Hamilton, a senior chef and olive oil aficionado who is currently head of kitchen operations for the Nourish Group.
he most important qualifier for extra virgin classification is the absence of defects and the presence of some olive fruitiness. So look for the red ONZ certification sticker. The New Zealand olive industry now has over 100 producers but is comparatively young with fewer styles of extra virgin olive oils compared with the vast range available in the northern hemisphere. Although some delicate oils are produced, the majority of our oils are either intense or medium in style. However, there are regional styles emerging, with oils from the warmer North Island areas showing different characteristics from those produced in cooler regions.
THE OILS
grill invited producers to submit oils currently available to the trade and secured 27 New Zealand samples, 26 were from the 2009 harvest and one from 2008. One sample was from Australia of unknown vintage. THE TASTING
The top-rated oils had pleasing proportions of bitterness and pungency to fruitiness (the fruitiness being the strongest of the three) and a good range of ripe and green flavours. Unless stated otherwise all oils were gold medal winners at the 2009 Extra Virgin Olive Oil Awards, packaged in dark glass and ONZ certified.
olive blue
Premium quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil without the premium price Presented in a special easy to handle cask designed to maintain best quality by locking out air and blocking light. Cold pressed and 1st cut with very low acidity. Non drip tap attached ready to use inside. Pull out and pour. Good shelf life and so convenient, stores away easily. No messy tins or bottles to dispose of, or breakage. Recyclable. Fantastic value considering its quality.
OLIVE GOLD Ltd Exclusive Importer & Distributor of the Finest Extra Virgin Olive Oil Tel: 03 3545404 Fax: 03 3545406 Email: olivegold@xtra.co.nz www.olivegold.co.nz
NOW AVAILABLE: GILMOURS NORTH ISLAND AND BIDVEST NATIONALLY. CHARGE THROUGH ALSO.
TASTE EVOO
La Casa Toscana, Frantoio, Canterbury (Silver) 9 This oil may only have made silver in the awards but all grill tasters gave this oil the highest score. Beautiful green hue, aromatic, nice spice, full flavoured and a good pepper kick. All noted a lovely mineral character and a fine finish. Two tasters with direct experience noted that this oil compares favourably with Tuscany’s best. Quail Ridge Estate Gold Blend, Northland 8 Greenish straw, good aromatics, lifted flavours, complexity with nice spice and bitterness and good length. A fine oil in anyone’s books. Te Arai, Motutira Single Estate, blend, Mangawhai, Northland 8 (No certification and no medal) Bright with greenish edge and fresh herb aromas. Mellow, nutty character with a touch of spice and a pungent lifted finish. Elegant, well balanced and suave. Lot Eight, Appassionata, Wairarapa (Silver) 8 Yellow/green, a fresh spicy nose with a nice touch of asparagus. Buttery and well flavoured with a tight good finish.
A very pleasant well balanced oil of moderate concentration. Bellbird, Fruttato Verde, blend, Waipara 7 Greenish hints, aromatic, mild and nutty with herbal notes. Lovely flavours, elegant with a good long finish. Frog’s End Estate, Frantoio, Nelson (500ml metal flask) 7 Green lights and a good aroma. Pungent and fruity clean with good texture but lacks spice and an aromatic finish. Bellbird, Dolce, blend, Waipara 7 Two levels of hue, rich yellow and green. Subtle nutty aromas, rich textured with hints of herb and spice and a nice pungent finish. Another well made suave oil from Bellbird. Rangihoua, Stonyridge Blend, Waiheke Island 7 Deep straw hue, aromatic with mildly nutty nose. Fresh, bright, clean and elegant with a touch of capsicum. Good structure and moderate complexity with a creamy aspect. Good oil. Cairnmuir Olives, Leccino, Central Otago 7 Green edge, aromatic and fresh. Hints
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of spice, medium intensity with some pungency and a good finish. Two tasters felt this oil was a little over ripe in character. Azzuro Groves, Tuscan Blend, Waiheke ISLAND 7 Pale yellow, aromatic and nutty with hints of spice. Words used by the panel for this lighter well balanced oil were, delicate, elegant, gentle and complex. Two suggested ideal with salads and fish.
The tasting notes listed reflect the comments of the judges and no other parties. Oils are ranked highest to lowest and scored on a 10-point scale. Scores are collated and averaged.
OUR SCORES ARE AS FOLLOWS: Score 1 – 3 Simple oils that range from pleasant to satisfying. Score 4 – 6 Quality oils ranging from promising to very good. Score 7 – 9 Premium oils at the top of their style, ranging from excellent to outstanding. Score 10 We are not there yet.
Simunovich Olive Estate award winning extra virgin olive oils
now available for hospitality for the kitchen: natural 10 litre container $16.00 per litre for the table: 250 ml: natural $8.60, infused by lemon $11.00, garlic $11.00 Extracted from
carefully chosen olive fruit
varieties,
our oils are blended to achieve a pleasant tasting, high quality product
acclaimed by chefs
throughout the country.
They are cholesterol free, and classed as ‘medium’ tasting, well balanced with crisp, fresh, fruity, grassy and green apple notes on the tongue, almond note on the throat and a slight peppery after taste.
Order by free phone 0800
746 865
www.simuolive.co.nz www.grill.co.nz
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TASTE EVOO
Frog’s End, Frog’s End Blend, Nelson 6 Greenish straw, firm with a spicy, nutty character. Slightly hot and pungent with a hint of bitterness.
hints of herbaceousness. Light structure with hints of almond and some pungency and perhaps a little naïve. One taster commented that this oil may be typical of young trees.
Matakana Olive Co-op, Matakana Coast Blend, Matakana 6 Pale yellow with green lights, fresh nose and concentrated. A firm texture but simple structure and a mild finish with just a touch of edginess.
Waiheke Olive Oil Co, blend, Waiheke/Hawkes bay 5 Pale straw with greenish hints. A delicate, mellow, slightly warm nose. A subtle oil but lacking definition.
Lot Eight, Oil Makers Blend, Wairarapa (Silver) 6 Yellowish with almond and citrus like aromas. A fat mid-palate with some character and a peppery cut off at the finish.
La Casa Toscana, Manzanillo, Canterbury 7 Straw, greenish tinge, light nose. Moderate concentration, nutty mid palate, some spice and piquant. A pleasant charming oil. Rangihoua Estate Waiheke Blend, Waiheke Island 7 Pale bright straw, fresh fruit nose. Mellow with hints of spice and a pleasant structure. A gentle, elegant oil. Simunovich Olive Estate, Auckland 6 (No certification and no medal) Green hints and a fresh floral/spicy nose. Good texture, mild spice but without a lot of flavour definition. A well integrated oil. Rangihoua Estate, Picual, Waiheke Island (Silver) 6 Pale translucent straw, not especially aromatic, fruity with hints of flowers and green tomato. Relatively complex with a lifted finish.
Molive Gold, blend, Wairarapa 6 A green edge with a ripe, bready, slightly sweet nose. Herblike spice, mashmallowy, fluffy, and pretty but lacked personality and definition in the finish. Karaka Grove, Koroneiki, Auckland 6 Straw to yellow, aromatic. Clean fruit flavours with some complexity and pungency and a calm finish. A salad oil. Divinity Olives, Northland 6 Pale straw with fruit/spice lifted nose. Smooth, soft and low acid with a simple finish. Pataua Olive Grove, Ascolano, Northland 5 (No certification, in clear glass) Hints of green, gentle, some nuttiness, oily. One taster noted bitterness in the finish from what he considered hard pressed fruit. A simple but good oil. Matakana Olive Co-op, Frantoio, Matakana (Silver) 5 Pale yellow with a generic bouquet and
This tasting was held at TASTE and conducted with the assistance and support of the Restaurant Association of New Zealand.
Karikari olives, Karikari blend, Northland 5 (No certification, in clear glass) Bright straw with an herbaceous/floral nose; two tasters noted hints of pennyroyal. Soft, simple and a little short and greasy. Karaka Grove, Leccino, Auckland 5 Yellow, fresh aromas, lifted. Light to medium weight, mild with hint of astringency. Generally a simple oil. Karaka Grove, Picual, Auckland 5 Bright straw, herbaceous, leafy (tomato) hints but lacking character. Sadly somewhat oxidized. All tasters noted rancio and this prevented a higher score. Olive blue, (500ml glass), Australia 4 No certification, no harvest date. Use by 07/2011 Pale straw. Simple, soft and over ripe. Terrace Edge, Tuscan Blend 2008, Waipara Not scored Sadly this (the only 2008) oil was very oxidised and considered too rancid to judge. Two tasters who know this oil said that this was unlucky as this is generally very good oil.
TASTE EVOO
Intense Blend: Frogs End Blend, Frantoio, Leccino, Manzanillo, Picual (Peter & Rae Coubrough)
2009 Extra Virgin Olive Oil Awards
T
he 2009 Extra Virgin Olive Oil Awards were judged on 6 & 7 October and the results were announced at the Awards Dinner at the Hotel Intercontinental, Wellington on Saturday 10 October. Reproduced here, courtesy of Olives New Zealand, are the New Zealand extra virgin olive oils that gained the very top awards.
Because of space considerations, the full list of awards could not be posted. For the full list of award winning extra virgin olive oils and the good oil in your region go to our website www.grill.co.nz or visit Olives New Zealand at www.olivesnz.org.nz.
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Intense Single Varietal: Frantoio (Peter & Rae Coubrough)
Category 2 – Production Greater Than 100 litres Best in Class
Best in Show
Light Blends: Simunovich Olive Estate First Press, Carolea, Verdale, Pendolino
La Casa Toscana, Manzanillo (Gayle & Lionel Sheridan)
Light Single Varietal: River Estate, Frantoio (Barry Wade)
Category 1 – Production Less Than 100 litres Best in Class Light Blends: No award Light Single Varietal: No award Medium Blend: Poverty Gully, Frantoio/Leccino (Sue & Trevor McNamare) Medium Single Varietal: Quail Ridge, Koroneiki (Carol Dunlop)
Medium Blend: Matapiro Olives (2008), Matapiro Gold Blend Medium Single Varietal: La Casa Toscana, Manzanillo (Gayle & Lionel Sheridan) Intense Blend: Waiheke Olive Oil Co, Matiatia Grove, Koroneiki/ Frantoio Grove Blend (John & Margaret Edwards) Intense Single Varietal: Matapiro Olives (2008), Matapiro, Koroneiki
A testament to dedication and skill Rangihoua Estate had its first harvest in 1997; this was the first time that olive oil had been made on Waiheke Island and chef Jamie Oliver was not wrong when, on sampling their Stonyridge Blend Extra Virgin Olive Oil, he declared it to be: “The best I’ve tasted in the Southern Hemisphere.” But Oliver is not the only one to recognise the outstanding quality of these Waiheke Island oils. Rangihoua has consistently won gold medals at the New Zealand Extra Virgin Olive Oil competitions. And not only has praise been heaped upon the Rangihoua Estate’s olive oils in New Zealand. At the prestigious Los Angeles 2008 Extra Virgin Oil competition, known throughout the world as the top competition of its kind, (and following gold medals in previous years),
Rangihoua Estate extra virgin olive oils won Best In Class, two Gold and two Silver medals with the comment: “Superb delicacy and nuances of flavours made Rangihoua stand out from amongst hundreds of other international competitors.” Rangihoua Estate is owned and managed by the Sayles family. They were inspired to grow olive trees and produce olive oil by Stephen White of Stonyridge Vineyard, (producer of perhaps the best Bordeaux-style wines in the country), and the beautiful olive grove on his Waiheke Island vineyard. Anne Sayles worked at Stonyridge for five years and this began the relationship between Rangihoua and Stonyridge that still exists to this day. After a trip to Tuscany, Italy, in 1996 Colin, Anne and Gavin Sayles decided that they would plant their own Waiheke Island property in olives. Colin had picked olives on a farm in Tuscany and his aim was to produce an olive oil similar to the ones he’d been involved with there. Back home in New Zealand, Colin poured green olive oil out of the jar he’d carried home from Tuscany, announcing to friends and family: “If we can produce olive oil like this, then we’ll be in with a chance.” The dream has proved more successful than they ever hoped and the oils Rangihoua produces are a testament to dedication and skill. For more information go to www.rangihoua.co.nz
www.grill.co.nz
Company profile
Island oil – Rangihoua Estate
GOLD MEDALS
Category 2 – Medium Blends continued… Waiheke Olive Oil Co
Cable Bay
Koroneiki, Grove Blend, Frantoio,
Waiheke Island/ Hawkes Bay
Waipara Valley Grove
Bellbird Dolce
Barnea, Nebali
Waipara
Cairnmuir Olives Cairnmuir
Leccino
Central Otago
Carol Dunlop
Quail Ridge
J5
Northland
La Casa Toscana
Manzanillo
Canterbury
Northland
Lionel & Gayle Sheridan
Category 1 Production Less Than 100 litres Company Name
Brand
Blend / Varietal
Region
Medium Blends Heather Seel
McGiven Valley
J5, Ascolano, Leccino, Verdale
Auckland
Trevor & Sue McNamara
Poverty Gully
Leccino, Frantoio
Central Otago
Medium Single Varietal Carol Dunlop
Quail Ridge
Koroneiki
Medium Single Varietal
Esk Valley Olives Esk Valley
Picual
Hawkes Bay
Lot Eight
Artemesia
Koroneiki
Wairarapa
Kerry Hart
Azzuro Groves
Picual
Waiheke Island
Matapiro
Pendolino
Hawkes Bay
S & C Price
River Grove
Frantoio
Wairarapa
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Te Roto Estate
Four Sisters
Picual
Kapiti
Paul & Christelle Dallimore
Edens Paddock
Frantoio
Nelson
Robert Dean
Karaka/Kiwi
Koroneiki
Auckland
Robert Dean
Karaka/Kiwi
Picual
Auckland
Intense Blends Peter & Rae Coubrough
Frogs End Blend Frantoio, Leccino, Manzanillo, Picual
Nelson
Intense Blends
Intense Single Varietal Peter & Rae Coubrough
Frantoio
Frantoio
Matiatia Grove
Koroneiki, Frantoio, Grove Blend
Waiheke Island
Waipara Valley Grove
Bellbird Fruttato Verde
Manzanillo, Verdale, Leccino
Waipara
Koroneiki
Hawkes Bay
Nelson
Category 2 Production Greater Than 100 litres Company Name
Waiheke Olive Oil Co
Intense Single Varietal
Brand
Blend / Varietal
Region
Gerritt Kruithoed
Moutohora
Frantoio, Leccino, Chemlali, Koroneiki
Eastern BOP
Gerritt Kruithoed
Moutohora
Picual, Frantoio
Eastern BOP
Simunovich Olive Estate
First Press
Carolea, Verdale, Pendolino
Auckland
Matapiro Olives Matapiro (2008)
Light Blends
Light Single Varietal
SILVER MEDALS Production Less Than 100 litres Company Name
Brand
Barry Wade
River Estate
Frantoio
Auckland
Light Blends
Divinity Olives
Divinity
Frantoio
Northland
Divinity Olives
Divinity
Leccino
Northland
Esk Valley Olives Esk Valley Late Harvest
Medium Blends
Lionel & Gayle Sheridan
Blend / Varietal
Region
Leccino, Picual
Hawkes Bay
La Casa Toscana Sevillano, Picholene
Canterbury
Iain & Helen Bowbyes
Ridgeway Olives
Leccino, Picual
Wairarapa
Kerry Hart
Azzuro Groves
Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino
Waiheke Island
Lionel & Gayle Sheridan
M & D Newcomb Duck Creek Road
Warkworth
Medium Blends
Matakana Olive Co-op
Leccino, Koroneiki, Frantoio, J5 Matakana Coast J5, Mission Blend
Matakana
C & K Chinnaiyah Olea Naturae
Leccino, Picual
Wairarapa
Matakana Olive Co-op
Matakana Valley Blend
Koroneiki, Leccino, Manzanillo
Matakana
Jamie & Diana Reid
Leccino, Pendolino, Frantoio
Wairarapa
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro Gold Blend
Matapiro Gold
Hawkes Bay
Man O War Olive Man O War Grove
Leccino, Koroneiki
Waiheke Island
Mike Cooper
Molive Gold
Barnea, Manzanillo, Frantoio, Leccino
Wairarapa
Number 29
Number 29
Frantoio, Verdale, J5, Koroneiki
Waiheke Island
Peter & Ruth Graham
Atutahi
Barnea, Verdale, Manzanillo
Wairarapa
Peter & Ruth Graham
Atutahi
Frantoio, Leccino
Wairarapa
Rangihoua Estate
Rangihoua Estate
J5, Verdale, Ascolano
Waiheke Island
Leccino
Martinborough
Light Single Varietal
Barney & Prue Gray
La Casa Toscana Frantoio
Shaw Road
Huangarua
Canterbury
Sourani, Leccino Hawkes Bay
Medium Single Varietal Bramasole Olives Smiths
Jill Chapman
Terrace Edge
Lynette & Colin Wilson
Hihi Olive Estate Koroneiki
Leccino
Waipara Valley
JN & SD Pine
Neudorf Olives
Koroneiki
Nelson
Northland
Kerry Hart
Azzuro Groves
Frantoio
Waiheke Island
Matakana Olive Co-op
Frantoio
Frantoio
Matakana
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro
Picual
Hawkes Bay
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro
Leccino
Hawkes Bay
Intense Blends Left Field Olives
Left Field
Barnea, Manzanillo, Frantoio
Wairarapa
Intense Single Varietal Lynette & Colin Wilson
Hihi Olive Estate J5
Northland
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro
Frantoio
Hawkes Bay
Lynette & Colin Wilson
Hihi Olive Estate Ascolano
Northland
NZ Olive Growers & Exporters
First Drop
Koroneiki
Northland
Paul & Christelle Edens Paddock Dallimore
Leccino
Nelson
Penman Olives Ltd
Bella Olea
Leccino
Wairarapa
Production Greater Than 100 litres Company Name
Brand
Blend / Varietal
Region
Robinsons Bay Tuscan Blend
Frantoio, Leccino
Canterbury
Rangihoua Estate
Rangihoua Estate
Koroneiki
Chris & Annette Moore
Waiheke Island
Robinsons Bay Grove Blend
Frantoio, Leccino, Manzanillo
Canterbury
Rangihoua Estate
Rangihoua Estate
Picual
Chris & Annette Moore
Waiheke Island
Sue Lowe
Ellsgrove
Leccino
Hawkes Bay
Simunovich Olive Estate
Simunovich Olive Estate
Frantoio, Leccino, Picual, J5, Koroneiki
Auckland
Tasman Bay Olives
Elovi
Frantoio
Nelson
Tasman Bay Olives
Elovi
Leccino
Nelson
Goose Creek
Koroneiki
Kumeu
Light Blends
Medium Blends Barry Wade
River Estate
Leccino, Frantoio, Pendolino
Auckland
Tim & Helen Armitage
C & R LeafWright
Leafyridge
Frantoio, Leccino
Wairarapa
Intense Blends Antipode
Antipode
Leccino, Frantoio
Marlborough
C & R LeafWright
Leafyridge
Frantoio, Picual, Verdale
Wairarapa
Bramasole
Smiths
Frantoio, Leccino, Picual
Martinborough
Helen Meehan
Olivo
Barnea, Manzanillo, Leccino, Frantoio
Wairarapa
Left Field Olives
Left Field
Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino
Wairarapa
Barnea, Leccino, Frantoio
Canterbury
Leccino, Frantoio, Ascolano
Northland
Olivenz
NZ Olive Growers & Exporters
First Drop
Ian Manson Judy Rae
Te Whau Olive Grove
Fossil Bay, Frantoio, Leccino
Waiheke Island
Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro Blend
Hawkes Bay
Kapiti Olives
Kapiti
Frantoio, Koroneiki
Kapiti
Barnea, Pendolino, Leccino, Picual
Leanne French
Mad EVOO
Barnea, Manzanillo
Wairarapa
Lot Eight
Oil Makers
Barnea, Manzanillo, Frantoio, Leccino
Wairarapa
Lot Eight
Appassionata
Frantoio, Leccino
Wairarapa
Paul & Jeanne Corke
Waimarama Olives
Barnea, Manzanillo, Hawkes Bay Picual
Rangihoua Estate
Rangihoua Estate
Frantoio, Pendolino
Waiheke Island
Rob & Margaret Irwin
Kilrae Olives
Leccino, Frantoio
Wairarapa
Whangape Grove
Whangape Grove Tuscan Blend
Intense Single Varietal Matapiro Olives (2008)
Matapiro Blend
Barnea
Hawkes Bay
NZ Olive Growers & Exporters
First Drop
J5
Northland
BRONZE MEDALS Company Name
Maurino, Leccino, Minerva
Waikato
Medium Single VarietalÂ
Brand
Blend / Varietal
Region
Medium Blends Graham Keen
Graval Estate
Minerva, Maurino Canterbury
Guy Camilleri
Kowhai Close
J5, Mission, Verdale
Waiheke Island
Cairnmuir Olives Cairnmuir
Frantoio
Central Otago
Kapiti Olives
Kapiti
Leccino, Picual
Kapiti
J&A Summerhays
Sumoil
Koroneiki
Wanganui
Nelson Olives
Oriwa
Frantoio, Leccino
Nelson
Jill Chapman
Terrace Edge
Frantoio
Waipara Valley
Pukeko Pond
Pukeko Pond
Nelson
JN & SD Pine
Neudorf Olives
Leccino
Nelson
Frantoio, Leccino, Picual, Koroneiki
Reproduced courtesy of Olives New Zealand