autumn 2010
Market
Intelligence
PREPARED PRODUCE
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Market
Intelligence Better source information for professionals
grill’s specialist resource writer John Clarke updates developments in produce, fish and meat supply each issue. The products and or companies mentioned in this column are there because we at grill believe they are of quality and have value to the industry.
IN THEIR
PRIME
Pears, ap ples, feij oas and kiwifruit. Kiwi Wild fung i and the truffles first if we are lucky and Beef and rich. fat lamb. Blue cod and tuna , snappe ; squids r and crab also. Red s are goo cabbage, d Brussels and kum sprouts ara. And, best of a wonders ll, those from the deep sou mutton b th irds and Bluff oyst ers.
FALLING OVER
Our aprico ts, necta rines and New Zea peaches. land stra wberries fruit. Bea and pass ns. ion
SHOT TO
BITS
NZ cherri es and m andarins grapefruit and . Wild gam e birds; at they will least be from th e first wee May. Pepin kend in o and bab aco are n available. o longer
Dry goods Grain/flour A severe hailstorm which cut a swathe through Canterbury early in December affected around 90 growers to varying degrees, with some losing their crops completely. However the grain harvest in Canterbury went well with farmers reporting good yields and goodquality grain, though it appears less grain was grown this season. The best and strongest New Zealand stone-ground organic flour is from New Zealand Bio Grains and is always worth the extra if quality is important to you and if you value using our local product. Otherwise Chantal has a great selection of organic flours from offshore. Kinaki (Wild New Zealand herbs and seasonings) I know I bang on about it, but here it comes again. These days nearly every menu has to have at least one dish with dried horopito and or dried kawakawa sprinkled or rubbed somewhere on it. Try the fresh version but just make sure that whoever does the gathering knows what they are doing. Our indigenous wild sea vegetables, dried karengo (parengo), which is very similar to nori, and kelp, which is similar to Kombu, can be sourced through Pacific Harvest. You can gather and dry these seaweeds and others including agar (which is great for jellification) yourself if you know what you are looking for, or check with the local Tangata Whenua. Murray River salt is available from Sous Chef and is a bit different.
Sous Chef . 09 269 6373 . 1/84 Spar tan Road . Takanini, Auckland
www.souschef.co.nz
Wild Fungi The minced truffle blend – both the black and white from Sous Chef – is a damn fine product and priced at around $28 net is a steal. There is also a range of very good dried porcini products. Lots of suppliers bringing in dried cepe these days; just make sure you check the label and that the only variety mentioned is edulis.
dairy The array and quality of New Zealand cheeses is fantastic as I found out at this year’s Cuisine NZ Champions of Cheese Awards – see page 20 for the full story and go to our website www.grill.co.nz to see the full list of winners and to find a great little cheese company near you. You can also check out The Produce Company website (www.produceco.co.nz) with 150 mainly local artisan cheeses listed. Sous Chef has a good range of the best cheese from overseas. Two from Italy worth noting are the top quality Cantarelli parmigiano reggiano and the range of Tomini cows’ milk cheeses in oil from Italy. And from Spain comes Manchego, the ultimate ewes’ cheese; just check it out and see what I mean. Also while I’m on about imported cheese from Sous Chef, some of the best goat and sheep cheeses I’ve tasted (and I have tasted more than a few lately) come – believe it or not – from Australia. This is the handmade range of chèvre, feta and
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Market intelligence
marinated cheeses from Meredith Dairy. For full tasting notes on these cheeses, see www.grill.co.nz.
EGGS Battery Whatever, this sad excuse for an industry still produces the cheapest egg, so if you are happy to use them, go for it. Duck eggs are about, but as they do not travel well you will have to find a local supplier. Some farmers markets have them also. Free range and organic egg production is now an industry in its own right; seasonal supply has levelled out and they are consistently available. They are more expensive, but if you want quality you have to pay for it. The Frenz organic free range egg is the best widely available egg for my money.
pleasantly surprised at the range and prices. Goose It is almost impossible to find good, fat, farmed goose in this country. Poussin is becoming more and more available, but the days of being able to pick up poussin for $2.50 each are well gone. Yeah, still living in the past, but still a reasonable cost per serve. Squab There was one producer and they had to close through lack of support. So that buggers that! Turkey You could do a lot worse than getting hold of Canter Valley as they still have a good range of whole bone-in turkey roasts and portions.
FRUIT It’s pip-fruit time again.
Quail eggs are available all year from Canter Valley Farm in North Canterbury and they can send them to you anywhere in the country and quickly too.
Poultry Chicken Factory chook seems to still appeal to many punters and it is the most economic option. Good organic free range chicken is something seriously special and some of the best are the organically farmed free range chickens and chicken portions from Rolling Hills. These people are dedicated to quality of both their products and the environment their products live in. This chook is as good as it gets and available only from Zealfresh. Cornish game hens Still bloody near impossible. Duck Although there is a lot more duck around these days, the line from Canter Valley Farm is still one of the best around and is available now countrywide. Check out www.cantervalley.co.nz for the full wholesale list – you will be
Apples All the New Zealand seasonal apples are arriving in numbers so there are no excuses for the imported rubbish. We now have the ‘Delicious’ varieties and the Braeburns, followed closely by Fuji and Pacific Rose, then Granny in April and bringing up the rear in May is the Pink Lady. Avocados The avocado gets its name from ahuacatl, a Nahuatl word for testicle. Lots of good quality well priced Haas fruit have been enjoyed by all. Watch the quality from now on. Bananas ‘Same as same as’ and the few from Northland are about finished. However, we have a new thing on the market ‘the straight banana’ – well that is what it is marketed as, not straight but Fair Trade, from Equador. There are also plenty of organic bananas around. Berries Fresh raspberries are still about but finish in April. Boysenberries are gone; the short season for gooseberries
is over also. Blueberries are finishing, but blackberries will hang on a little longer. Loganberries are always around and frozen berries are always available. Blackcurrants are about finished for another year. Citrus Local limes and lemons are starting to show up, but tangelos, oranges, mandarins and navelinas are now well over. Plenty of imported citrus though. Feijoas The season will be on again come April. This is a very handy fruit over late autumn and winter. Grapes New Zealand fruit, if you can find it, will be around for just a couple more weeks. Otherwise it is the tasteless, hopefully not black-widow-infested stuff, from offshore. Kiwis The early crop of New Zealand fresh fruit will be starting to show up towards the end of March; first the golden then the green. Mangoes A few Tommy Atkin (the red/gold variety) mangoes from Australia and Southeast Asia are in the marketplace. We are also seeing a lot of the Kent and Keitt varieties (the green ones) from Mexico and organic ones from Peru just now and very good quality they are too. This variety seems to keep better and bruises less easily. Mangosteen Here is a fruit we don’t see that often; winter is the time, if at all. Melons All varieties of New Zealand grown melon are around to some extent, but it’s the rock and honeydew that are best now although not for much longer. Then there will be imported varieties available. Miro Our best native fruit for my money and it’ll soon be time to collect this and freeze for that Matariki celebration. Stuff one or two up a poussin’s backside. Passion fruit The season for this fruit will finish in a month or so.
Canter Valley . 03 312 9805 . PO Box 293 . Rangiora
www.cantervalley.co.nz
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Market intelligence
PREPARED PRODUCE Pears Autumn is definitely the period for pears. This means nashi too. Persimmons Not yet; this is a winter fruit. Pepino Is this a fruit I wonder? Well, it is classified as one and there used to be a few commercial growers in New Zealand, but it appears to have dropped off the radar. So, unless you know a local grower you are out of luck. Even if you do know a local grower you will be out of luck as the season is over. Pitaya This is another summer fruit to try out, but as we have only one grower it’s rare. Pomegranates are all imported but are finishing. Quince are back. Yes, these wonderful things start showing up again from the end of March. Redcurrants are well done and dusted. Rhubarb is around all year and we are heading into comfort food time, so dust off those winter pudding recipes. Stone fruit are finishing or finished. Cherries are done, apricots, nectarines and peaches (aside from the odd lovely golden queen) are about done. Plums will be around longest. Strawberries New Zealand fruit from December to March; imported from April to November – if you can afford them.
Hazels There are a few New Zealand hazels about. Once again Chantal has them and good imported ones. Macadamia The New Zealand season for fresh nuts is over, but there are plenty of dried and roasted nuts available. Wild walnuts are available from A Cracker of a Nut. Wild Hawke’s Bay nuts are often available from Chantal. Local new season plantation grown walnuts will be available now. They have a more creamy texture, tend to lack bitterness and are generally larger.
Cavolonero will be around from now on as the main season is April to September.
VEGETABLES
Celery is available all year, but it can tend to be of lesser quality in early autumn.
Artichokes (globe) The globes are done and dusted and the Jerusalem artichokes will not be available till winter time.
Chard (silver beet) You can get it all the time and from now on it should be the most economic and available vegetable; but it is not.
Asparagus All you will get now is frozen, tinned or $20+ per kilo imported stuff.
Choko This handy early winter vegetable is available from May.
Aubergine is available all year, but locally grown egg plant fruit is not; it is finishing.
Corn Another month and then it is frozen kernels.
Beans New Zealand green beans are ending their run and it is Aussies from April. Broad beans are shot to bits. Beetroot is most plentiful from November until April, but always available.
Broccoli – plentiful and cheap.
Chestnuts The season for this, the most perishable of nuts, is over I am afraid.
Cauliflower is available all year. Miniature cauliflowers, ideal for a single serve, are sometimes available – ask Prepared Produce.
Celeriac is better from autumn (that is now guys) through to early spring.
Broccoflower supply is always limited.
NUTS
Carrots are always available and ‘good as’ from now on.
All other nuts are imported.
Tamarillos The first in May. Tropical fruit All the imported tropical stuff is as usual – it’s up to you to demand quality.
Capsicum All the New Zealand grown varieties are out there in good numbers. Enjoy them now because they do not last much longer. It’s the same for fresh chillies.
Broccolini prices are creeping up again. Brussels sprouts are available from now on and at their best until the end of winter. Cabbage The green varieties are available all year as usual, but this is really the time for red cabbage.
Courgettes (zucchinis). All year availability, but Australian produce during winter and spring. Cucumber Lebanese and short cucumbers are finishing and it is Australian telegraphs over winter and spring. Fennel More Florence fennel is now available with the main season about to start. Garlic New Zealand garlic will be around for the period covered in this issue. And there is always plenty of cheap imported rubbish around. Ginger Supplies of ginger in this country are always sourced offshore and price has been reasonable but it is climbing again.
Prepared Produce . 09 276 6079 . 118 Savill Drive . Mangere East . Manukau City . Auckland 2024
www.preparedproduce.co.nz
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Market intelligence
PREPARED PRODUCE Garnish Always available and Prepared Produce’s cost-effective julienne salad garnish has become very popular in the Auckland arena. Herbs All the fresh herbs except tarragon are available all year these days and French tarragon is here over summer and autumn. Kohlrabi is available all year now. Kumara All varieties of new season: Beauregard (orange, softer, sweet), Tokatoka, (yellow, firm, good flavoured), Owairaka and Northern Rose, (traditional red, very firm), are in. Leeks have been marginal at best of late but that’s expected. They have come right now and are good from now on. Mushrooms and fungi All the commercial mushrooms are available as usual including the exotic stuff at a price. But it is the coming cool misty mornings and the fruity time of year, (by fruity I mean the fruiting bodies) that is heaven for the true fungiphage. There are the various ink caps, the puffballs, and other wild field varieties are rearing their tasty heads. This is the start of the season for forest floor wild fungi also, especially the boletes. The best known is the cep (Boletus edulis), or as we tend to call them these days, porcini, but there are others in this family that are far more common. The brown birch bolete is, for me, the best of them and quite widespread and there are edible varieties of bolete specific to most of the deciduous trees in this country and I have come across most of them in our cooler areas. There is also the old slippery jack all over the place under pines; it is also a member of the family. They can be sourced from people who go around gathering these if you do not know what you are doing. The best option is to talk to a restaurant chef who uses wild fungi and beg them to put you on to their supplier. But there are some right little pricks out there that are so greedy that they are cleaning
out everything right down to the tiny immature fruit; this is stupid, destructive, and very short sighted. So if it is you, you are a wanker and if someone tries to sell you tiny porcini, don’t buy them, okay. Some of these so-called collectors may also try to palm off the lesser boletes as cepes, do not stand for it – buy them by all means, but pay less and tell me who they are. There are also lots of other good varieties in the bush, but for goodness sake make sure you know what you are collecting. So, like any good chef put your mouth where your life is; eat them first yourself and then wait, it’s more than half the fun. Our commercially grown truffles should become available towards the end of this period. Bloody expensive but fresh mature truffle is the reason for life. Too expensive? Then check out the dries section of this column. Onions Good supplies of Jumbos with plenty of New Zealand red onions still around so you do not need to buy the Californian ones. Baby onions are available all year round, but at their best about now. Rakkyo is a small onion with bulbs that are about 4-5cm in diameter; they look like small shallots and are still rare. Parsnips are often thought of as a winter vegetable, but are available all year round.
the marketplace in volume. Spaghetti squash will finish soon. Radishes Salad radishes are all in good supply and there is some daikon about. Salad leaves – as always. Rocket and the various lettuce strains are all out there. Shallot is in good supply. Snow peas – Mange tout The expensive few New Zealand grown ones are finishing and the expensive imports starting. Sorrel Not common, but there is more around from now on. Spinach This vegetable is always out there. Spring onions Always good supplies on the shelves. Swede and turnip are still available. Taro is not grown commercially in New Zealand and all supplies are imported from the Pacific Islands. Tomatoes New Zealand main crop is about over. Autumn crop and Aussie stuff from now on. Witloof Traditionally a winter vegetable it is best from May to October.
Peas Not bloody likely. Yams Gone but returning in winter. Pikopiko is available all year these days. Potatoes Lots of good quality main crop potatoes all over the place and plenty of variety too. The (so-called) Maori potato varieties have arrived in the market. These old trad spuds are worth the trouble to source; they knock the socks off the more common commercial varieties. Earth Gems are pretty and available now. Pumpkins are good buying this season. Buttercup, butternut and kumi kumi will be available for a while longer. Crown and Grey pumpkins are your main crop keeper pumpkin and are in
GAME MEATS The second of May sees the start of the shooting season and the fifth Gamebird Food Festival.
FEATHERS Birds Farmed quail and pheasant are in good supply and a very good supplier for the whole range is Canter Valley Farm. Guinea-fowl are available, but finish as autumn progresses.
Prepared Produce . 09 276 6079 . 118 Savill Drive . Mangere East . Manukau City . Auckland 2024
www.preparedproduce.co.nz
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Wild birds The wild ducks, pukeko, black swan, pheasant, quail, and (Canada) geese season starts on the first weekend in May. This is the only chance we get in this country to cook and eat these wonderful wild birds. This is why restaurants and chefs should sign up to be part of the Gamebird Food Festival that runs from 2 May til 27 June this year. The festival is an initiative of Fish & Game New Zealand and aims to promote responsible, licensed hunting and the value of game birds as a natural and desirable food. Many of the country’s best restaurants participate and you should also. It is an opportunity to get new clientele – customers that you may not normally see in your dining room and at a time of year when everything is slowing down in our trade. They will invariably bring their friends and family along and tell others of their experience at your restaurant. In this day and age every bit helps, you get to show off your skills, get well paid for it, sell beverages and anyway how often do you get free marketing? Email gamebirdfood@fishandgame.org.nz to find out more. Muttonbird (Puffinus griseus), titi The harvesting season is on again and birds will available in 20-litre pails. These are best kept frozen and pulled out as you need them.
FURS Boar ‘Wild’ wild pork is available, check out Premium Game. Farmed wild boar Free range boar bred from wild stock and legally reared on a farm in the Taupo region. At present only available in limited quantity from selected outlets but more coming on stream all the time from Neat Meat, The Produce Company and Harmony Foods and sold under the Razorback brand. Great eh! Cervena That is farmed deer guys, it is always good quality and therefore still
Market intelligence
a very good bet at any time of year and more suitable for those delicate palates. Prices have levelled off, but don’t hold your breath. Chamois New Zealand is one of the very few places in the world where these animals are available – and they’re worth the attention of the chef. Crocodile (imported) and a damn fine white meat. Available from all the suppliers, both of them. Emu and ostrich meat is available for those who want it and can get the best out of it. Goat Tends to be skinnier from now on so choose only the fatter young animals especially as this is the start of the smelly old mating time. Hare Always remarkably well priced and they are in great condition in late summer and autumn – especially the jacks. Kangaroo Like croc, this is imported and a damn fine red meat. Possum is still hard to get, so road kill may be the simplest option. Try Premium Game in the south and North Poultry in Whangarei. Rabbit numbers are still on the increase at this time of year. Tahr is a wild mountain goat native to the Himalayas, now happily (barring DOC) at home in Godzone’s Alps. This species is still in good condition until winter really bites. With tahr it is particularly important to choose younger animals especially now with the mating season on its way as sexually active animals really stink and this can seriously taint the meat. Venison Wild animals will start to lose their best condition from now on as the roar kicks in. Wallaby The annual Timaru wallaby hunt should knock over 1000 animals and wild wallaby will be available through gamepacking houses.
RED MEAT All the hoofed animals are in fine condition and the schedules look to be rising.
BEEF New Zealand beef prices are tied to the export schedule and the trend is up sadly. Beef slaughter statistics report the kill is well back on last year, but the condition of stock coming through the works will be excellent for the period, so expect the best from your supplier. Savannah has its certified organic free range beef programme on track, so check it out. Chefs and restaurateurs owe it to their diners to be very aware of what they are buying – that it is the genuine product – so look just a little bit deeper than the surface and that really, really good price. Premium suppliers have branded labelling, chefs need to ask questions, such as where they were slaughtered, and where is the branded packaging.
VEAL Basically the veal season starts again in June this year. There is always some frozen stuff about and it is not bad especially those sweetbreads.
SHEEPMEAT Lamb supply will still be below the level it was before the last drought a couple of years ago. Kill for 2009 is down 15% and 2010 is expected to be down 7%-8% also. Farmers are still effectively replacing capital stock and are likely to hold back ewe lambs. Lamb schedules remain firm, with lack of supply forcing processors to chase all available stock. Canterbury processors
Fish & Game . 04 499-4767 . PO Box 13-141, Wellington 6440 . gamebirdfood@fishandgame.org.nz
www.f ishandgame.org.nz
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Market intelligence
have been working short weeks and some agents are starting to wonder how many lambs are left. This shortage shows in a strong demand for store breeding stock, and many farmers are restocking ewe lambs for the future. The local trade schedule (that’s us guys) for lambs has increased ahead of export values. Prices will not drop and have been trending up, but that is usual from early February on. We say again, if you are going to pay good money for lamb get a decent reputable supplier; one of the best in the north is Zealfresh. It has sourced lamb from the same supplier in Hawkes Bay for years. Why? It is of reliably excellent quality. Hogget no longer considered an age grade these days; so now hogget is just another mutton, yeah right. This is why you need a reputable supplier who will steer you right so you end up with some very good, very young ‘mutton’ that will more than satisfy your diners. Mutton The best for me are two-tooth and four-tooth wethers and any time is a good time for flavoursome mutton from fat healthy animals, but don’t expect too much as the mutton kill is down, so of course supply is tight and prices high. However, Zealfresh has another good deal in the sheep line – check out their mutton neck fillets and see just what you can do with them.
PORK Some of the best pork in the South Island (if you can get it) comes from Havoc in south Canterbury. Their pigs are stress free and free range and damn near organic. Contact Ian and Linda Jackson at 0-3689 5767 and you could just be lucky. Harmony Foods at Paeroa processes free range pigs and the pork is available from Neat Meat. Freedom Farms offers what is described as ‘Free Farmed’ New Zealand
pork and a very good product it is too. They care about their animals and, controversy aside, they are well looked after and happy little piggies. Their pork products are available through Zealfresh in the northern region.
includes chorizo, salamis and their quite-famous-in-New-Zealand gourmet sausages. These products are all gluten free and available through Zealfresh and Neat Meat.
Whole piglet is still available if you want it; costly though.
FISH AND SEAFOOD
PRESERVED MEATS Much of the processed pork we see – salami, sausages, bacon, ham etc – is made from imported raw carcass meat. The label then says ‘product of New Zealand’ and fails to mention the fact that the pig was actually farmed overseas, and that the producers do not have to meet New Zealand regulations when it comes to matters like feed and hormones. That is another good reason why we need decent country of origin labelling in this damn country. So, if you want New Zealand processed pork products, look for the 100% NZ Pork label. The Little Boys range of small goods products is available to the trade and will continue to be so. Zealfresh has taken over the brand and factory and intends to extend the range of goods with a new release of a sausage that uses only free range organic meat products. Contact Zealfresh or Neat Meat if you want them. Smoked duck and turkey breasts are available from Canter Valley Farm and Aoraki has a great smoked salmon range. Prosciutto di Parma It is possible to get prosciutto from Italy and, again, Sous Chef leads the way. There is one New Zealand version of prosciutto which I believe is better than anything out of Aussie and bloody near as good as the original and also a fine New Zealand style pancetta both from the Little Boys range of small goods and made in Te Aroha. The range also
Inshore species will slow down as we move into winter.
SALTWATER FISH Frozen Convenient and economical and you get what you get. Fresh Albacore This lovely oily little tuna is more than just bait. The season for this underrated little white fleshed tuna started in mid summer but will end soon. Another fish that is too good for the cat. Alfonsino Fresh alfonsino is in the markets these days. Anchovy all go for bait and cat food as companies say no one is willing to pay for them. Antarctic Toothfish is definitely not PC. Blue cod is not actually a cod, some sort of wrasse I think. As the albacore fishing season runs down, fishermen start on the blue cod fishery, so the Auckland market may even see some if you guys down south relax your exclusive claim to it. Blue moki The season for this beautiful fish will start in June. Bluenose is a bloody good replacement for the bloody good Hapuku – and all year round as well. Dory (black and smooth, mirror, in other words all deep sea Oreo Dory family). All are available throughout the year from off the southern east coast.
Zealfresh . 09 419 9165 . Unit 2, 84-90 Hillside Road,Wairau Valley, Nor th Shore
www.zealfresh.co.nz
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Flounder There has been a flood of very good flounder on the market and it is a wonder our trade doesn’t make better use of this fish. There will be lots around in the short term, but the fishing will be quietening down as we get closer to winter Groper (Hapuku) is bloody hard to get sometimes, bloody expensive most times and bloody good all times.
Market intelligence
about had the best of the season and it gets even harder from now on.
Snapper The season has past its peak, but there is always reasonable supply.
Ling The fresh season for ling starts in June.
Sole The major catch also almost done and then it will be by-catch stuff. Supply is still restricted in the North Island as this is mainly a southern fish, but it is a much underutilised, premium fish at a relatively low price.
Moki (Blue and Silver) The season for this beautiful fish is over.
Gurnard is always available; a lovely fish you can’t afford to ignore.
Monkfish (stargazer) I cannot give this fish enough raps. It has an interesting texture and flavour reminiscent of crayfish and more and more kitchens have caught on to its value.
Green bone. A terrible name for a wonderful fish. Still some around for a month or so.
Mullet Lots of this beautiful fatty fish still around. Volumes will decrease as it gets colder though.
Hake Not yet.
Orange roughy The roughy season will not start until August so trawlers will have to find something else to scrape off the sea floor.
Hoki If for some reason you happen to be hanging out for a fresh piece of Hoki you will have to wait until June. This is another fish on the dreaded red list. John Dory is best in March, but there are always a few of this best-of-all-fishes coming in, but at a price. Kahawai This is the time for kahawai and though some do not value this fish and say that the flesh is coarse and too dark (as if this should be a problem for goodness sake; it lightens on cooking anyway), I have to disagree. At an impromptu tasting I served this fish alongside snapper (both species were caught on the same boat at about the same time and treated similarly) to four guests. Each of the four plates contained a fairly large portion of each (purposely more than could reasonably be expected to be consumed). All were cooked together in the same pan to the same degree, and none of the diners knew which two species were served. Each diner had consumed all the kahawai and left some of the snapper. So there! Ngah, ngah, ngah. Kingfish It is damned hard to find as there is never enough quota. We have just
Piper This fish is a winter fish and in recent years it has been damn hard to find in the marketplace – even in season. Red cod must have mothers so someone can love them. A bloody awful fish! Do not be confused by anything masquerading as English or British cod; this is still just your good old crayfish bait. Salmon, quinnat (sea cage) Fish will tend to be smaller over this period. Sardines We have lots around our coast and now you can get them. You can order direct at Salty Dog Seafoods – 0-9-433 7002. It can be supplied fresh or snapfrozen free-flow and you can designate the size. Sharks Autumn is a good time and May the best time for doggies (rig, spotted dogfish etc) – and school sharks are also great eating. Big sharks are a no-no these days. Skate If you like them, great. Still waiting for those recipes. Skipjack tuna Still some of this little red fleshed tuna about, but it will be gone by winter. One of the few tuna not red listed.
Moana Pacific Fisheries . 09 302 4027 . 138 Halsey Street, Auckland
www.moanapacif ic.com
Spotted gurnard The best-priced fish in the market. Tarakihi The season is slowing and finishes in June, but there will always be some around. Trevally Again, the main season is finishing but then quality markedly improves as the fish will be caught using ring nets around inshore reefs. Tuna Quality is reaching its peak. At present the cost is as low as it’s ever been with some very good deals around. This is the season for the Northern Bluefin tuna, but we will not see much of it – exported. Turbot and brill come from the west coast of the South Island as by-catch mostly. Warehou This is another southern species. The main season starts soon and the price is always reasonable.
FRESH WATER FISH Catfish are now available – very earthy flavour and bony; try them. Eel, longfin and shortfin The fresh season is all year in the North Island. South Island eel ends in May. Smoked eel is always obtainable. Koi That pretty pest of our waterways, the koi carp, is also now available in the Auckland Fish Market; well priced and worth a shot. Salmon, organic sockeye If you have trouble sourcing this fish it is available direct from New Zealand Clearwater Crayfish near Blenheim.
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Market intelligence
Salmon, quinnat Some good smaller fish available as all larger fish will now be harvested or matured. Aoraki has a very good product. Trout Sadly not ever in this country. Whitebait The Chathams’ season finished at the end of February so no more fresh stuff until mid-August; bugger!
mollusc from the sea. Largest taste best and always some available. Smart enough to wander out of the kitchen on its own. Pacific oysters were improving, but then there was a second spat, but that was just a spat and supplies of this shellfish should be good barring storms, pestilence and algae. Paua (farmed) This smaller version of the wild paua is now available at a much more realistic price these days. The best are sourced from the farm in Bluff and are great eating.
SHELLFISH Bluff oysters Yep, you can get them now kiddies. Clams The southern varieties of cockle (littleneck) are still okay and always in good supply. For my money northern cockles are still the premium shellfish, but generally only available locally. At time of writing there is a massive algae bloom on the northern east coast, not toxic yet, but don’t hold your breath.
Paua (wild) This is the seabed and foreshore packaged in a shell. Use it all year if you have a robust bank account. Do NOT be tempted by the crooks coming to the back door. Pipi are very good eating, though usually only in local markets. Supply may fall over if the algae blooms become toxic. Queen scallops These are a deep water type and frozen can be sourced all year.
Clevedon Coast oysters always good and getting fatter.
Squid The main season for our squid finishes in May, but you can always get frozen.
Kina Just the thing for that something extra in a sauce. Available live. Kiwi surf clams (hard shell) and Pacific surf clams (triangle shell) are bigger shellfish and always available.
Tuatua (deep water) Yes, you can get them now and forever.
Mussel (Horse) You may hear the name ‘Chinese scallops’, well this is what they are talking about.
Tuatua (inshore) I feel these have the best flavour and may have the same issues as pipi this autumn.
Mussel (New Zealand Greenshell) Our endemic mussel and a very fine thing it is too. We see so many now that we tend to take them for granted; well don’t. A very high meat-to-shell ratio and always available live in the shell and fresh or frozen on the half shell.
Yellow eyed mullet, sprats if you will, are now more available fresh and not just for bait. Try them; great eating and great buying.
CRUSTACEANS
Nelson Bay oysters Yep. New Zealand scallops Fresh are well over, but should be on again in July. Octopus When it’s fresh it’s the best
Bugs Your imported seafood supplier should have these. Crabs Quota for the tasty deep water spider and king crab has been allocated
for a couple of years now; but it appears no one is that keen to go out and get them. A very few are turning up here and there. The best part of the paddle crab season runs until June. Crayfish The main season is just about finished. You will always get some, but prices may climb even higher. Koura (farmed organic) You may get a few from New Zealand Clearwater Crayfish in the Wairau Valley, but the season is effectively over. New Zealand prawns are available from the hot water prawn farm at Wairakei near Taupo. They have a more delicate flavour than other prawns and are definitely worth a shot. Imported prawns The usual frozen stuff, but ideally the only good prawn is a fresh one. New Zealand scampi Expensive and exquisite and usually frozen. Scampi imported (frozen) Cheaper, larger and coarser and do not look half as good on the plate.
grill magazine would like to thank our sponsors for their financial support and unbiased help in the intelligence gathering without which this column would not be possible. Zealfresh; Moana Pacific Fisheries; Prepared Produce; Canter Valley Farm; Sous Chef and Fish & Game NZ. We also wish acknowledge the following for their support in the collecting of impartial information used in the collation of this column. The Produce Company Wilson Hellaby Harmony Foods Neat Meat
Moana Pacific Fisheries . 09 302 4027 . 138 Halsey Street, Auckland
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